Letter Re: Some Thoughts on How to Live in Times of Hunger

I have experienced two different times in my life of going hungry. The first time I went with very little food for three months. I went from 145 lbs to 115 lbs. I am 5’8 and my weight should be around 140-160 according to the Body Mass Index (BMI). The second time wasn’t as bad because I knew what to expect. I went from 175 lbs to about 135 lbs. I now weigh a comfortable 190 lbs. I purposely gained weight above the recommended 160 but I try to keep my weight maintained just under the obese level. I do exercise and I eat healthy.

I have learned several things from going hungry, at least for my experience:
1. Candy bars are not good for trying to ease hunger pains. Yes they can help give a very short term boost in energy, but they leave you feeling hungrier within an hour, some starch or protein is better.
2. Starving leaves you feeling lethargic. Going without food leaves your body without energy to perform necessary functions for survival. You have to be mentally prepared to go hungry. If you do not have the willpower to continue to push through your weakness you will give up and die, literally.
3. Having some stored fat helps you to continue going hungry for longer. Having too much fat will just make you a target when everyone else is hungry too. Yes you can live off of stored energy but do not endanger yourself by becoming obese. You will increase your risk of diabetes and heart problems, as well as decrease your ability to survive in TEOTWAWKI. I purposely am a bit overweight because I have found that when I go hungry it is easier to go down to 135 lbs and function than it is to go down to 115 lbs and function, however I do not ever gain weight above 190 lbs because then I cannot run or do heavy work as well. TEOTWAWKI may not come for another 20 years and there is no sense in putting yourself in risk of a heart attack.
4. You can survive on beans alone. For over thirty days I had no food at all and then I was given a box containing nothing but cans of kidney beans. For the next twelve days I had a can of beans a day and I felt much better and gained a little energy.
Both times I have gone hungry was because I had no or very little money to buy food, it was not a choice and if I can prevent it from happening again I will. I now make sure to have plenty of canned food from my garden in storage, but if I have to go hungry again I know that I can go at least three months on very little food and still work and function.



Economics and Investing:

G.G. flagged this: First look at US pay data, it’s awful

Brian H. mentioned: Denninger’s timeline for collapse.

The Ranks of the Underemployed Continue to Grow.

Would You Do Your Banking at the Post Office?

Dylan Ratigan gets his ranty Wookie Suit on, on MSNBC

Paul H. sent this: FOREX: Dollar slumps to record low versus Yen

Items from The Economatrix:

Fed Survey Suggests Hazy Outlook for Economy

Consumers Paid More for Food, Gas in September

Oil Prices Little Changed on Government Supply Reports

The Student Loan Bubble Exceeds All Credit Cards

The Age of Bank Failures



Odds ‘n Sods:

Mike Williamson mentioned: CCW for Amputees

   o o o

FBI official calls for secure, alternate Internet. Will they simply expand JWICS or make a SIPRnet “Light”, or create something new?

   o o o

G.G. was the first of several readers to mention this piece: Copper Wiring Traded For Crack

   o o o

Gaddafi burial delayed amid calls for probe. That’s odd, I don’t remember reading that there wasn’t much of “Death Probe” for Mussolini. I guess that “angry mobs, ignominiously parading bloodied former dictators” are more civilized, these days.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Whoso walketh uprightly shall be saved: but [he that is] perverse [in his] ways shall fall at once.
He that tilleth his land shall have plenty of bread: but he that followeth after vain [persons] shall have poverty enough.
A faithful man shall abound with blessings: but he that maketh haste to be rich shall not be innocent.” – Proverbs 28:18-20 (KJV)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 37 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $300 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo, and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 37 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Homestead Food Production by Mary A.

Greetings, fellow preppers!  In this article we share our experiences of the past two years to help you see the complexities of growing your family’s food.   In the long run, food production is crucial to survival.  It takes both knowledge and hands-on experience to successfully manage livestock and grow fruits and vegetables.  Currently  three of us live on our homestead full time with a possibility of about 20 folks ranging from infants to senior citizens if TEOTWAWKI occurs. 

Fall is a good season to make plans and prepare for next year’ s growing season.  I think this basic information will help you realize just how much effort is entailed in raising sufficient amounts of food with limited or no machinery to assist.

The two basic categories of food production are animals and plants.  In addition, we also have a large amount of stored bulk foods for both humans and animals, along with a wide variety of heirloom seeds.

ANIMALS

Overall, we try to invest in heirloom breeds, not fancy over-bred  versions that are reliant on special diets and medications.

Chickens – Provide eggs and meat.  Our bantam hens typically raise a brood of 8-10 chicks once or twice a year if we do not gather their eggs.  Right now we have 12 five-week-old and 11 three-month-old chicks. About  half of them will be roosters who fight and harass the hens when they mature. We also have several large hens who lay brown eggs.  The chickens  free range mostly in the orchard and herb/berry garden.  They receive  whole wheat and oyster shell in the evening. We could easily supplement their protein needs by adding a worm bin in our garden. Another way to reduce the amount of grain needed is to sprout it for several days.  This increases the bulk of the grain to three times the original amount and provides additional nutrition.  I soak about 2 cups of wheat in a  half gallon jar, rinse it several times a day and feed it when the green shoots have their first joint.

Ducks – It has been very satisfying since the ducks came to see empty snail shells scattered around the property.  We have established a small pond for the ducks to enjoy.  Our four Khaki Campbell ducks used to consistently produce four eggs per day, but then we got rid of the drake because he damaged some of the hens.  That was a mistake.  Without the drake, the ducks actually started changing into drakes and we ended up with only one duck laying eggs.  We purchased six newly hatched ducks and one drake who are now old enough to swim in the pond.

Goats – Currently we have three does and two doelings.  We chose to sell this year’s wethers rather  than butcher them.  Two does are milking full time.  We sold one doe with twins because she had two orifices in one teat and it was impossible to milk her with a bucket – the milk sprayed straight out.  The goats provide us with more than enough milk for drinking, cheese-making, kefir, yogurt and cooking.  The milk also helps feed our dogs and cats.  During milking the does are offered a quart of grain that we mix ourselves from bulk oatmeal, wheat flakes and split peas.  I also cut greens for them  to reduce the amount of grain needed.  We planted two small raised beds of alfalfa last year and this year we were able to get three cuttings from them.  I used organic sprouting seeds because the FDA recently approved GMO alfalfa without restrictions and we do not use GMO products. We added  two more alfalfa beds this year. We also have comfrey, kale and miscellaneous vegetable thinnings.   We cut the tops off of our strawberries to reduce slugs and discovered that the goats love strawberry leaves.  All the goats have access to minerals with kelp, diatomaceous  earth and wormwood added occasionally for parasite control.

Sheep – We purchased five registered Icelandic ewes a few months ago.  They also free-range and are given a cup of alfalfa pellets at night, with kelp and herbs added twice a week.  They have constant access to minerals. The Icelandic breed is hardy and can be triple purpose:  Wool, meat and milk.  We are going to breed them this fall to an outstanding ram.  We have an experienced shepherd as our mentor to teach us about keeping sheep.

Dogs and cats – The dogs provide predator protection, particularly at night.  The cats reduce the rodent population.  We feed our dogs beans and rice with eggs, milk and an herbal powder that supplies trace minerals.  They receive kefir-soaked oatmeal at other times. Thus, we can get by without commercial dog food and, as an added bonus, our older dog became much stronger and healthier once his diet was improved.  The cats are trickier.  They require more whole protein so we mix commercial cat food with eggs and milk for them.  If times get tough the cats can be on their own with just supplemental milk from the goats.  All the animals enjoy whey leftover from cheesemaking.

PLANTS

Here is a list of the fruits and vegetables we are currently growing.  An * means that we actually harvested food, feed or seeds from that plant this year.

Fruits:  Apples*, aronia*, asparagus(chose not to harvest because it is a new bed), avocado, blackberries*, blueberries*, cherries (birds got every one), citrus, date, figs (birds again), gingko, goumi, grapes, kiwi, medlar*, mulberry*,  nectarine, peach, pear, plum*, pomegranates, raspberries*,  rhubarb, serviceberry*, silverberry*, strawberries*, and wintergreen*.

Vegetables:   Alfalfa*, amaranth*, artichokes, beans, carrots*, celery*, chard*, chick peas*, chives*,  corn*, cucumbers*,comfrey*,  favas*, French sorrel*, kale*, leeks*,  oca, onion*, parsley*, peas*, potatoes*,  pumpkins*, shallots*, squash*, stevia*, and sunflowers.

Grains:  Buckwheat*, flax*, kamut*.

We also have about 20 herbs.

Diversity is the key to success.  Depending on weather conditions, pests and diseases, fruits and vegetables may do well one year, then nothing the next.

We have four main growing areas for our plants:  A young orchard with about 90 trees, an herb and berry garden , a vegetable garden and a greenhouse my husband built this spring. 

PLANT PRODUCTION CHORES

Watering – occurs about six months out of the year in our area, takes 4 to 6 hours per day. 
Manure water/Urine bucket – this is dumped on plants for additional nutrients.
Weeding  – grass and clover are our ground cover, but constantly invade the plant spaces.
Pruning/Staking/Trellising – dead limbs can be removed at any time, thinning is usually done in dormancy.
Remove pests/diseased leaves and plants – We have sawfly larvae (aka slimy guys) that hatch 3-4 times a summer, along with caterpillar eggs deposited in fruit tree leaves. 
Mulch – we do this just before the rainy season so the nutrients can soak in over the winter.
Netting for protection from birds – losing all the cherries this year taught us the need for netting.
Manage greenhouse – what to plant, when, how to arrange plants for the most production space.
Start and tend seedlings – We are trying to grow food year-round, so this is a constant process.
Enrich soil – we add manure, sawdust, and compost.
Manage poultry for insect control in the orchard and herb garden – have to remove the animals before they start eating the crops.
Save seeds – one of my favorite chores.  I use lots of plastic containers to keep the seeds until they are totally dry, then I label and put them in plastic bags for the next year.
Manage planting schedule – I spread out my seedlings plantings so I can take better care of each batch.
Harvest fruits and vegetables – this can include canning, drying and freezing.
Clear land for planting/build new raised beds – we  keep adding land as we have the time and resources to improve it.
Plant propagation from cuttings and layering – this is to gain experience in starting plants.

A TYPICAL SUMMER DAY

So, with all these plants and animals, how does a typical day look at our homestead?  Here is a sample of our daily summer chores for food production.  This does not include housework, building projects, emergencies, community involvement, etc.

Each morning we let the chickens out of several  coops – the regular coop, the small coop with half-grown chicks, and the little coops that have moms and chicks.  Ducks are let out;  goats and sheep are turned out to graze and the does are milked.  Goat stands are cleaned.  Water containers are filled and ground grains are put out for chicks.  Whey is also put out in pans in the herb garden for chickens to drink.   Cats and dogs are fed.  If it is a cheese-making day, I get the milk started early in the morning and work on it along with my other chores.

After breakfast it is time to begin watering.  We stagger our watering so that we do not empty out our 1,500 gallon tank, which can refill one time during the day giving us a total of 3,000 gallons.  Currently I begin with watering a dozen trees in the orchard for 20 to 30 minutes per set, running four hoses at a time.  It takes six days to cover all the trees .  While the hoses run, I inspect the trees for pests, remove diseased leaves, leaves with sawfly larvae and webs with caterpillar eggs.  Recently I have begun putting a gallon of manure tea on the  trees after watering to increase their nutrition.  Our trees are young and mostly semi-dwarf.  I pull weeds and cut grass which I feed to the ram who is kept in a small paddock.

Then I move to the vegetable garden and do one of four sections.  The greenhouse is watered about every third day depending on temperature.  Seedlings and new transplants are watered daily, usually with manure tea.  Seeds are gathered as they mature.  Weeds are tossed over the fence to the ram.  Old plants are removed.  If it is a planting day, I will do that in the late afternoon; usually I fill the pots with soil the day before.

We take a break in the heat of the day, sometimes down by the creek or catching up on things in the house; often we take a nap.

In the afternoon I am back to watering. The herb/berry garden takes the longest and is divided into five section, one is watered each day. Then the evening round-up begins.  Cats are fed, ducks are given food and clean water.  Chickens are fed, eggs gathered, nesting hens are checked.  The sheep are lured in with alfalfa pellets, then the goats are milked.  The ram is taken out and grazed under supervision for about an hour.  By dark everyone is secured in a barn or coop. Our new pond is still leaking so if there is water left in the evening, it goes to the pond. Often dinner is after chores.  Then we relax with games or movies or reading articles to each other.  We go to bed before 10:00 p.m. most nights because chores start again at 7:00 a.m. the next day.

MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING TIPS

I plant by the lunar cycles because the groundwater is affected by the pull of the moon’s gravity.  Each month I mark a calendar with the planting dates and  whether is is time to plant above or below ground.  The basic idea is to plant all things that produce above the ground when the moon is increasing (from the new moon to the full moon) and things which produce below the ground when the moon is decreasing. 

I must confess that I have a hard time eating raw greens  even though I am well aware of the health benefits.  This year I began training myself to eat and enjoy greens by taking a small bite of one type at a time until I developed a taste for it.  I began with French sorrel which has a delightful lemony flavor, then added common amaranth (aka pigweed) which has little flavor at all.  Then I added tender young comfrey leaves. Parsley, which I enjoy in small amounts, grows year-round in our climate so we are keeping several beds of it around.  Currently I am working on chard – again, I started with young tender leaves.  Next for me is kale which I started for our winter garden. 

We love peas and this year grew several rounds, starting them about every three months with the fall peas getting planted just last week.   I am going to see if I can grow them year-round,using the greenhouse in the winter. Our favas also did well this year.  We dry them for sprouting or cooking.  I save the largest and healthiest seeds for next year’s garden. 

I love seed saving.  All it takes is letting a few of each type of plant to grow its complete cycle which is two years for things like carrots, celery and parsley.  When the seeds have dried on the plant you simply remove them and after drying for a few more days, place them in bags or containers in a dark, dry environment until planting time next year.  If the rains come early, the entire plant can be put indoors tied to rafters.

Grains are a staple of life.  I have several small raised beds of kamut growing – an ancient wheat.  The kernels are much larger than today’s commercial wheat and I enjoy the flavor, plus kaumt seems to agree with my digestive system more than hard red winter wheat (which we have stored).  It would take much  more than we grow to supply our bread-making needs, but my experiments show that grains can be planted from May through July and still ripen before our long rainy season starts.

Another lesson I learned the hard way here is that I must start seedlings in pots and transplant them after they get several sets of leaves, otherwise the many birds, rodents, and slugs have a feast.

Avoid growing one crop year after year in the same place.  We rotate crops and also intermingle different species  in the raised beds.  Companion planting can actually boost production.  Grow different varieties of the same plant.  Did you know that the 1845 Irish Potato Famine in Ireland was because most farmers  grew only two species of potato which a disease wiped out?

Our soil is mostly clay and our heavy winter rains seem to leach out any nutrients that might be in it.  Vegetables that we planted directly in the ground our first year were dismal failures.  We built raised beds and put together the best soil we could for the first year out of some topsoil we came up with, but it was not until we had manure from the goats and sawdust from logging some trees that our plants began to thrive.  This summer our original compost bins from our compost toilets were a year old and well-decomposed so we filled three new beds with it.  I planted kale in those and one old bed.  The kale in the compost beds is four times as tall and wide as the little seedlings in the regular raised beds. Our composting toilets cost less than $30 to build and work well for our family.  In one bathroom we keep urine separate to apply directly to plants. 

All winter I clean off the goat stands and put the droppings around the trees in the orchard, the berry bushes and replenish the raised beds with it.  In the summer I half-way fill 5-gallon buckets with goat pellets, add water and use it for manure tea.

A kind neighbor filled our trailer with river silt from his property which we put around the orchard trees.  They are young trees and have not been doing well in this soil despite applications of manure. 

The high-hoop greenhouse has been a worthwhile investment in our Pacific Northwest climate.  The greenhouse is 16 x 24 with a raised bed along the south side and a planting table on the north side.  Even though it is unheated, we started tomatoes, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, peas, carrots(for seed) and various other plants a couple of months sooner than our neighbors were able to.  The center is filled with Earthboxes – unique planting containers that have a water reservoir in the bottom.  I put about a foot of composted soil in them and plants flourish.  Earthboxes and the greenhouse seem to complement each other.  Our main concern with the greenhouse is the short livability of the plastic covering – although supposedly good for 8 years, ours already shows signs of near-tear marks after just one season.  We plan to use our old glass windows to build a second greenhouse.

Birds are another learning experience.  The crows and bluebirds ate every single fig on all of the fig trees.  Other birds ate every single cherry and they began picking off the ripe blueberries until I got netting up.  While I am writing this, my husband is putting up PVC hoops over the two largest figs which we will cover with netting – I don’t mind sharing with our wild creatures, but they simply cannot take every bit of our food supply.

Blackberries are abundant here.  Most people clear them away as noxious weeds – we use goats to clear ours, but I have a large planting of blackberries in the herb/berry garden along a fence line and found that their quick growth provides lots of feed for goats when they need to be confined for some reason.  We also enjoy the berries, so this fall we will allow more blackberries to start along our fence lines.

Although this sounds like a lot of work – and it is – my husband and I love our life.  We have spent many years at desk jobs battling office politics and worrying about the stock market.  Now our stock investments all have fur or feathers a and our rate of return is phenomenal!  We dance in the meadow and thank our Creator for our beautiful slice of paradise. 



Letter Re: The Importance of Rural Retreat Light Discipline

Jim:
I’m writing to comment on something in your nonfiction book “How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It”: On page 206 you state: “Without proper blackout precautions, your house will be a
‘come loot me’ beacon that can be seen for miles at night.”I can’t stress light discipline enough. Here’s an example: About fifteen years ago my parents went to dinner at The Cougar Inn on Lake Wenatchee [in eastern Washington]. It was a dark night and on the way back from dinner they looked across the lake and saw a faint green flashing light it the vicinity of their un-lit cabin. Arriving at the cabin they found the light source for the flashing: The light that could be seen from slightly over one mile was the reflected light inside their cabin of the video cassette recorder (VCR) flashing “12:00, 12:00, 12:00.”

That was one mile away. The VCR was sitting in a corner in a built–in cabinet, and not pointed directly at the window.

Don’t ever tell yourself, “Oh, it’s okay, it’s not that bad.” What’s not that bad? The act of being raped, robbed, and murdered, or the light leaks? Even the smallest light leak can be an invitation to disaster [in a grid-down situation, where all of the houses are blacked out.] – Rick B.



Two Letters Re: Choosing the Right Footwear

Captain Rawles,
I just read Desert Rat’s piece on footgear, and would like to put up a bit of advice and a recommendation on the subject.  Bates, while they put out excellent footwear, primarily makes footwear for institutional environments.  This is to say Police, EMS, Corrections, Hospital staff, etc.  Many of the officers I worked with in Corrections wore Bates on board our facility, and the footwear served them quite well in all conditions.  However, the footwear did not serve as well in the field, when we had need to be out in the boonies.  From my own experience, I highly recommend for the conditions described in the article, that the author and others who need such a dual purpose set of foot gear acquire a pair of Redwing Sheriff’s Ropers, or something very similar.  This particular type of boot is outstanding for civilian appearance, while retaining the degree of tough reliability required of one who changes environment on a regular basis.  For the edification of other readers, these are not actually “cowboy” boots per se.  They are a mid heel, round toe, leather working boot.  They have perhaps half again as much heel as a high oxford garrison shoe, or a tad more depending on exact comparison, so plenty of heel to dig in with in working conditions, while not having the stereotypical rodeo or “sliding” heel most associate with western style boots.  The rounded “v” toe gives enough play to wedge one’s toes in small spaces for grip and traction, without being a so called “cockroach killer”of your stereotypical redneck boot, and is abbreviated enough that it will quite handily pass for a custom oxford shoe when worn with normal office wear.  You can climb in them, run in them, and if needed fight in them, as needed.  I’ve done all of those in mine, on any number of occasions.  I’ve had mine for ten years now, and while they now carry a bit of scuffing and one deep scratch from concertina wire, I can clean them up, add a touch of Kiwi boot polish, and wear them quite handily with office and semi-dress attire, with few the wiser.

For the concrete jungle, these boots have as much non skid ability as is needed under normal circumstances, without having to carry an extra thick lugged sole; with the sole exception of traversing actively “wet” acrylic floor stripper compounds, as these substances tend to gum up a bit, and coat the sole with the partially dissolved wax.  They also take forever to wear down, so long as one takes the trouble to take a reasonable amount of care of the boot.  If you break them in well, and scrub the protective laminate spray out of the leather, then re dye, and saturate them with polish, they won’t develop leaks, neither will you have to do more than give them a good buff with a soft hair boot brush, assuming you didn’t just go crawling through a gumbo mud pit,  in order to make them ready for the office.  Putting mine in this condition took three days, and was well worth not getting to wear them right off.  I’ve worn mine quite actively in conditions ranging from backyard, to traipsing all over the desert southwest while hunting, with eight and a half years of wear on watch in a concrete floored correctional facility in the midst of all that; and only now, nearly ten years after purchase, do they begin to show enough wear on the heel and ball of the foot to warrant considering having them resoled or re-heeled.  The Redwing Sheriff’s Roper (might be under a different name by now, but same boot) is, in my experience,  nearly as resilient as a proper combat boot, while still able to pass as the average Joe’s work boot in the eyes of the powers that be (this means no steel toe or shank in the instep to set off detector arches, etc).  Highly recommended, and quite a reasonable investment if one watches prices carefully at the local good quality boot store, though you may need to watch prices a while as these at “full” price tend to be a bit on the pricey side.  See if you can catch a boot sale, and you might well have your next “permanent” set of footwear.

As for the issue of wet feet, so long as one is not fording creeks with these boots, all that needs be done usually is take them off while sleeping, and let them air out good.  You might consider placing them near your heater overnight if you get your feet really wet, otherwise it’s not generally an issue.  Of course, one should be doing this every night, in my opinion, just to prevent trench foot, but I digress.

Good luck with your next acquisition of quality boots, folks. Semper Fi, – J.H.

Mr. Rawles,
A tip I was taught with footwear is to use 550 parachute cord as your boot laces. I put coyote brown (dark khaki) on coyote and desert boots and black on everything else, even my Justins. They are incredibly strong and durable and fit 95% of existing eyelets. – Jeremiah Johnson



Economics and Investing:

Andrew K. sent us this: The Most Important Decision Bernanke Will Ever Make

Over at ETF Daily: History Says Silver Could Become The Next 10-Bagger Investment; Here’s Why

Largest Rare Earths Producer Halts Output.

Eric N. sent a link to an interview with mainstream investment guru (and prepper) Robert Kiyosaki

Items from The Economatrix:

Budget Cuts Claim Hundreds of Thousands of City, County Jobs

This is No Normal Recession:  Are We Ready for $100 Oil?

Gold Signals The End

Gold and Economic Decline

Alternative Misery Index Drives Gold Demand



Odds ‘n Sods:

An interesting piece on the EPA running roughshod over an Idaho family.

   o o o

F.G. flagged this over at The Daily Mail: Brains over 55 work quite well

   o o o

Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large) recommended the Newseum web site, where you can see scrollovers of a large number of American newspapers.

   o o o

Über-absurd: The Glock 9mm Beta CMAG. I suppose the greatest practicality these will have is in giving Nancy Pelosi a fit of apoplexy when she learns of their existence. Oh, and then there’s the very rare chance that you might walk into a theater full of Gremlins. Seriously now, folks: Never expect a pistol to do the job of a rifle. A pistol is just a low-power concealable tool that is convenient to have available in situations where you can’t carry a rifle, and nothing more.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“While we despise and discount the most basic and fundamental commandments of God and the foundational law of America, we embrace thousands of manmade regulations and codes that do violence to both – as well as doing violence to our individual liberties.” – Joseph Farah, Too Many Unlawful Laws



Notes from JWR:

Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large) has updated his review of the X7 rifle (posted on Augus23rd), to reflect his ongoing tests

Today we present another entry for Round 37 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and B.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $300 value.) C.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), D.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo, and E.) An M17 medical kit from JRH Enterprises (a $179.95 value).

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, C.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and D.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 37 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Choosing the Right Footwear, by Desert Rat

I am relatively new to prepping, but one thing I have noticed is that there are quite a few “oh by the way” mini-lectures on footwear that sneak in among other topics.  This is unfortunate, because footwear should not be relegated to a bunny trail or an afterthought when planning for an uncertain future.  Your choice of shoes can be the difference between comfort and misery, so they deserve careful consideration.  By careful consideration, I don’t mean going to the nearest military surplus store to buy the most expensive tactical boot you can afford.  As I have discovered, there can be some huge functional differences between one boot design and another, and there are also times that you don’t want to draw extra attention by wearing a tactical boot at all (especially in the security line at airports).  The bottom line is that there is no such thing as “the ultimate survival shoe”, nor should there be.  As an engineer, I understand that life is all about trade-offs, and while some shoes are better than others, every single design is the result of give-and-take.

As a field engineer, I have been working for the last several years as a contractor for a three, four, and/or five-letter government agency or agencies conducting experiments in an arid or semi-arid environment somewhere west of the Mississippi.  The areas I work in are very remote, and it has been an excellent training ground for learning how to prepare for the unexpected, because I do not have easy access to retail resupplies while I am out there.  There are a lot of lessons I could share from these experiences, but I would like to focus on footwear today.  I have had the opportunity to put a lot of miles on many pairs of boots in some very rugged terrain, and I hope that I can help others learn from my mistakes and victories.  I will talk about the specific boots that I have used, but my focus is not on the “best brands” so much as the features that worked and didn’t work for the various situations I encountered.

On my first trip, I spent about ten days testing electronic equipment in the middle of nowhere.  Right before the trip, I bought a brand new pair of high-top Redwing steel-toed construction boots.  They were rugged, had good treads, speed laces, excellent ankle support, and a tough leather construction.  It was everything I thought I would need for my work in the field, except that I could barely walk for a week because my feet hurt so much.  Don’t get me wrong, my Redwing boots are over seven years old now and I still wear them.  They are wonderful boots, and well worth the $200 price tag, but you have to break them in before they wear comfortably.  I made the mistake of not breaking them in before trying to walk long distances in them, and I paid a steep price in blisters and sore feet.

Well, about a year later, I went out again, but this time it was for an entire month.  I took my Redwings again, but, of course, they were already broken in.  I hiked for miles in those boots without much trouble… no trouble, that is, unless you count a mild case of heat exhaustion.  The temperatures reached well over 120F, and, even with plenty of water to drink, those tall boots with the thick leather construction held in a lot of body heat.  That’s a good trait for a winter boot perhaps, but not for a summertime sand-stomper.  

As an aside, I was glad to have my rugged leather boots that year in spite of the heat.  A lot of people try to work out there while wearing tennis shoes or low-top hiking boots, but that year one of my colleagues was struck in the ankle by a sidewinder while stepping out of his vehicle.  He was lucky.  He wasn’t one of the tennis shoe crowd, and his boots saved him from the snakebite, but the unexpected strike scared him so much that he leapt over the hood of the vehicle and pulled a muscle in the process.  It’s always the little things.  Since that incident, I have always made sure to keep a respectable distance from those shady little desert bushes.  You can assume that you won’t see a snake until it moves, and by that time, it may be too late.  Whenever I do have to step through or over a bush, I probe it with a walking stick first, and I make enough noise that the snakes know I’m coming.  Well that’s enough about snakes.  Back to footwear. 

Well, year two in the desert was a marked improvement over year one.  Even though the trip lasted more than twice as long, my mobility was much improved, and the boots protected me from all of the sharp, pointy plants and animals in the wilderness.  The over-heating issue was minor, but still a problem.  If I was running for my life instead of casually walking through the desert, I would have had some serious thermal problems to deal with. 

On to year three:  Because the Redwing boots kept me too warm and didn’t breathe well, I went to the local sporting goods store and bought a pair of Bates tactical police boots.  I specifically avoided the tan military-style boots, because tan is more conspicuous against a pair of khakis, and I wanted to be able to wear the boots around the office on days when I would be working outside.  My secondary motivation for going with a black boot instead of the tan was that I work with a lot of military and former military types, and the last thing I want to do is come across as a wannabe soldier by wearing imitation-issue gear.  That’s not a good way to earn respect as a civvie among combat veterans.
 
Well my Bates jungle boots had fabric sides which breathed better than the leather Redwings, but the fabric was still thick enough to protect me from snakes.  The boots had speed laces (the hook type, not the enclosed eyelets) and a side zipper which made them very easy to get in and out of, and the soles were made of a relatively soft rubber that was quite comfortable for walking long distances.  Also, the Bates boots did not have a steel toe, so my toes were able to flex and breathe better than in my Redwings.  I wore the Bates boots around the office for about a week before my third trip so that I could break them in, but as it turned out, I didn’t need to.  They wore comfortably like a tennis shoe right out of the box. 

When I got out to the remote work area, my Bates boots were wonderful.  They were comfortable to walk in, breathed well, and protected my feet, but like I said before, every shoe has trade-offs.  After two weeks of tromping, I discovered that cushy soft soles don’t stand up too well to the kind of abuse that sharp rocks and cacti can dish out.  The tread wore out quickly, and the edges of the soles were  totally shredded in places.  Every once in a while I pulled a few cactus spines out of the soles with a pair of pliers because the spines were poking through and irritating my feet, but even so, the boots survived two more trips to the desert before I had the heart to toss them. 

Actually I only threw my first pair of jungle boots away after I took a winter trip to Washington State.  In Washington, I really should have worn my waterproof Redwings instead.  The cactus-induced pin-holes in my Bates boots allowed freezing water to seep straight up into my socks every time I walked through a puddle.  I longed for the Redwings even more every morning when I had to put on the same soggy pair of jungle boots as the day before.  The motel hair dryer didn’t work well enough to make up for the pungent smell of steaming foot sweat when I tried to dry my boots at night.  yuck. 

That wet winter Washington trip led to my next big lesson in footwear.  Sometimes you can’t avoid getting wet either from rain or from just your own sweat, but if you have a second pair of boots, you can at least start the day off with clean, dry feet.  From then on, I always carried a backup pair, and I’ve started alternating pairs every-other day whenever I can.  During most of these trips, I have had the luxury of not having to carry all of my gear on my person, so I can afford the extra weight and space of a second pair of boots.  Let me tell you: it is a wonderful thing to be able to put on a fresh pair of dry boots every morning.  By giving each pair a day to air out, I can keep my feet healthier and reduce bad odors too.

By this time, I had a pretty good idea of what I thought I wanted in a good field boot:

  • Tall sides to protect my ankles from snakes and cacti
  • Breathable fabric
  • Inconspicuous under a pair of khakis
  • A quick and easy side-zipper
  • Tough steel quick-lace hooks (not eyelets) with smooth edges to prevent shredded laces
  • Soft, comfortable soles that feel like tennis shoes
  • No break-in time required before use
  • Inexpensive (less than $75)
  • A backup pair (preferably identical)

You may notice that longevity was not my top priority at that point.  For me, the fact that the soles seemed to wear down fast was acceptable as long as I could plan ahead and pick up a fresh pair before I went out to the field again.  The boots only cost about $60, so a pair every nine months or every year was manageable.  By “wear down fast”, I mean that my boots were completely trashed after about 6 weeks of walking in the desert, and by “desert”, I don’t mean a bunch of sand dunes.  I was walking off-the-beaten path in a hot, mountainous terrain filled with sharp rocks and even sharper cacti.  The boots would probably have lasted a lot longer under less strenuous conditions. 

Unfortunately, Bates made some “improvements” to my favorite boots about two years ago. They changed out the metal speed laces for these weird, chunky plastic blocks.  They also got rid of the metal zipper and replaced it with a plastic one.  I guess that this switch to an all-plastic design might have been a selling point for security officers who work around metal detectors.  That’s the best I can come up with, but for me it was a horrible change.  On my first “new and improved” pair, the plastic zipper jammed up and pulled apart about half-way through a trip.  Not only were the boots harder to put on and tale off, but the broken zipper also compromised the integrity of the ankle support, making the boot more flimsy.  It also allowed sand and small rocks to sneak into the crack where the zipper was split.  Bates generously offered to replace the faulty boots, but that would have taken weeks, and I was in the middle of nowhere.  On that trip, I was stuck with my stuffy Redwings as a backup because I was too cheap to buy a second pair of tactical boot.  My wonderful wife mailed a new pair of the Bates boots right away, but a week after I received the new pair, the plastic zipper broke again. 

I don’t want to be too harsh on Bates.  They are generally a good brand, but the lesson I learned was that I cannot rely on a company’s reputation to keep my feet happy.  The model number was identical, but the “new and improved” product was far inferior to the old one.  I should have bought five pairs of the good boots while I could, but I foolishly assumed they’d always be equally good and that they’d always be easy to come by at a reasonable price.  Those assumptions didn’t do me much good when I was stuck in the middle of nowhere with two pairs of broken boots.  The experience forced me put “reliability” back on the critical feature list, and as a result, I have also removed the side-zipper from my personal list of desired features in a boot.  Zippers are convenient, but they are also unnecessary and prone to failure.  So my boot feature wish-list now looks like this:

  • Tall sides to protect my ankles from snakes and cacti
  • Breathable fabric
  • Inconspicuous under a pair of khakis
  • NO zippers or gimmicky mechanisms
  • Tough steel quick-lace hooks (not eyelets) that will not shred the laces
  • Soft, comfortable soles that feel like tennis shoes
  • No break-in time required before use
  • Inexpensive
  • A backup pair (preferably identical)
  • Reliable and proven to work in the environment I plan to use them in

(For a cold or wet-weather boot, I would add “waterproof” to that list at the expense of “breathable”, but otherwise it would be about the same).

The back-to-back zipper failures were annoying, but I was lucky that it was only an annoyance.  I can be a slow learner, but I eventually adapted to the situation.  I whip-stitched the zippers permanently closed using a needle from my first aid kit and some 80-pound fishing line that I always carry in my wallet.  Because Bates swapped the steel lace hooks out for large, enclosed plastic chunky eyelets, the boots were a big pain to put on, but they still did a good job of protecting my feet while on the move.

So that is where I stand today on footwear for rugged environments.  My personal experience certainly reinforces the “two is one and one is none” philosophy, and it is only through several years of hard use and abuse that I really learned what to look for in an outdoor boot.  Some of my lessons learned will apply generally, but others are specific to the environment I was working in.  There are quite a few readers who may never encounter the kind of harsh environments I have worked in, but even if you do, I cannot recommend walking for miles through a mountainous desert with no trails.
 
Well so far, I have focused on the functional aspects of boots for a rugged desert environment, because that is where I have learned the most about what matters on my feet.  In the city under normal conditions, it doesn’t really matter whether you wear flip-flops or medieval stirrups, because the controlled conditions don’t really put your footwear to the test.  In a rugged off-road environment, I would not consider anything but a good sturdy tactical boot (plus a backup pair).  Low-top hiking boots or cross-country trainers might work okay if you don’t have snakes and cactus to deal with, but don’t just assume that something which is designed for a well-traveled path will also hold up equally well off-road in the wild.

I would argue that every prepper needs at least four good pairs of tactical boots: two for warm weather and two for cold weather, but like I said before, every shoe involves trade-offs.  There are many times when a boot is not the right answer, especially in a city environment.  In fact, in a city, there is a much wider variety of footwear that would not slow you down during an emergency but will hold up long enough to get you out of Dodge.  Boots are big, heavy, and can sometimes draw unwanted attention, so you will have to choose the footwear that works best for your situation, but the most important thing here is to wear something comfortable that you can also run in if necessary.  If you can’t wear a “run-capable” shoe all the time, then at least keep a pair nearby. 

For urban wear, one shoe style that probably has not been considered enough is the minimalist running shoe.  There are many advantages to a sturdy tactical boot, but personally, I also love my Vibram Five Fingers running shoes.  Yes, these are the silly-looking shoes that have slots for individual toes.  They don’t fit the “avoid attention” category at all, because I look like a big dork when I wear them, but I’m more likely to be pegged a tree-hugger than a prepper.  With a minimalist shoe like the Vibrams, I give up the “armor” that I would have with a big pair of boots, but I make up for it in other ways.  The Vibrams are compact, light weight, and extremely quiet. 

When I say extremely quiet, I mean these shoes are scary quiet, literally.  The other day while jogging, I came up behind a female walker.  I probably  got a little too close to her personal space while zipping around her, but I also assumed that she would make some room for me on the sidewalk.  She probably would have, but she never heard me coming up behind her.  She didn’t know I was coming until I was within her peripheral vision!  She jumped sideways, screamed, and then turned really red.  I’m glad she wasn’t carrying pepper spray, because it wouldn’t have been quite as funny for me.  I didn’t scare her on purpose, but I learned that it would not be hard to sneak up on somebody or sneak past them in the dark while wearing these shoes.  It’s a lot like the old stories of Native Americans running silent and barefoot.  If you run on the balls of your feet instead of running heel-to-toe, you can move very fast without making much noise in a minimalist shoe.  Obviously, it would be foolish to run through a cactus patch in such a thin shoe, but it protects my feet enough in the city to keep broken bottles out of my toes.

To finish up, I want to make just a few comments about the “barefoot running” movement that is popular right now.  If you want to learn more about it, start with the book Born to Run by Chris McDougall or visit GoodFormRunning.com and try it for yourself, but don’t just try it once and then give up.  It takes time to re-train your muscles for this type of exercise, even if you are already a runner.  The first few times you try it, I guarantee that your calves will hate you.  You might also discover sore tendons where you didn’t know tendons existed in your feet.  It took me months to re-learn how to run in a minimalist shoe, but now that I do it regularly, it has helped me learn to run more efficiently even if I am wearing boots.  Much like prepping, there are a lot of “crazy” sounding people who are into barefoot running.  Some of them will greatly abuse the facts while promoting barefoot running (for example, do a web search on “Barefoot Ken Bob”).  There is nothing magical or mystical about running barefoot, but as an engineer, several things about it make sense to me.  First, landing with a mid-foot stride allows your Achilles tendon to recover some kinetic energy as your foot comes down on the ground.  To see what I mean, try running in place while landing on your heels; now run in place the normal way, landing on the balls of your feet.  By flexing your ankle on the landing, you are recovering and releasing some of that kinetic energy through your Achilles tendon.  When you land on your heels, there is no shock absorption and the impact shoots straight through your knees, hips, and back.  Of course, you don’t have to wear silly looking toe shoes to run on the balls of your feet, but if you don’t have a big cushion on your heels, you will learn pretty quickly to not heel strike, because landing on your heels hurts.  The second barefoot running concept that makes sense to my engineer self is this: too much arch support can be crippling.  As an engineer (not a doctor!), I will tell you that the best way to de-stabilize a mechanical arch is by pushing up from underneath (this point is made in Born to Run… it’s not my original idea).  Your foot has an arch because it is designed by our Creator to stand up to the forces your body puts on it.  An arch is an ideal design, because it forms a light-weight structure that is still able to withstand significant downward pressures.  If a shoe provides that arch support instead of your own foot, you may weaken your foot’s muscles and tendons and be more prone to injury.  Thus, even if you plan to wear combat boots, it’s a good idea to try strengthening those muscles by training with a minimalist shoe from time to time.

Well, since sewing up the zippers on my last two pairs of boots, I have yet to purchase a new pair of warm-weather tactical boots.  My old Redwings are still the best winter boots I own (but I still need a backup pair).  For warm weather, I think my next boots will be the Adidas GSG9 (named after a German anti-terrorism team).  The GSG9 doesn’t have the quick laces, which are a personal preference of mine, but they do have most of other the features I want, including the “tennis shoe feel” that I liked about my Bates boots.  The GSG9 is well proven in the tactical world, but until I try them for myself, there is no guarantee that what works for an elite German police team (and a few Navy Seals) will also work equally well for a field engineer working west of the Mississippi.  I’m sure there are lots of other good tactical boots out there to try, but I’ll let you know how the GSG9’s work out when I get the chance to try them.  



Letter Re: A Low-Cost Method of Storing Tinder in Your Field Kit

Dear Mr. Rawles,
I just began reading your second novel and in some ways find it even more fun to watch the beginning of the action knowing some of what lies in store in terms of “future history.”

But the purpose of my e-mail today is to describe a simple container I’ve been making to transport a variety of items including doses of medicine and fire starters.  As many of your readers know cotton balls saturated with vaseline make really good fire starters.  But how to transport them and keep them fresh?  This is my method: Get two plastic 20 ounce plastic sodapop bottles and save their caps.  Using a bandsaw or a hacksaw cut the bottles right under the plastic lip (right below the end of the screw threads).  Use a sander or sandpaper to smooth the bottom flat.  Then use Gorilla Glue to glue two of these lips together.  Use a vise or weight to keep them together until the glue sets.  When you put the caps back on you have a container large enough for three cotton balls that is small, light-weight and water-tight.  You can use PVC cement instead of Gorilla Glue but I’ve had less success making it completely water tight because of the small gaps left from sanding.

I have also used larger bottles from Gatorade to make a larger version of these mini-caches.

Respectfully, – Bruce S.



Two Letters Re: How to Defend a Retreat Against Wheeled Vehicle Threats

Mr. Rawles,
Thank you for all you do in educating those of use who have been slow to see.
After I read B.W.’s How to Defend a Retreat Against Wheeled Vehicle Threats I had to tell about an idea I have been playing with.
Taking the anthill and flower trough concepts and combining them. To build this in imagination we will go in reverse order to what you would do in real life. First build the ant hill. They should surround your building spaced less than a cars width apart. Build another ring outside of that but put the anthills in the gaps of the first ring, much like a circular checkered board. Now on at least every third anthill in the ring cut away 1/3 to ½ of the mound closest to the building. Continue to dig until at least 2 feet below grade. Line the hole and the cut away side of the hill with landscaping stone or timber. If you place a planter in the hole you now have a decorative flower / herb / vegetable garden viewable from the house. Once bad things happen, take the pots out of the hole and you have a ring of fighting positions. The advantage this has over the flower pot / trough on top of the ground is there is nothing for an attacking force to hide behind without exposing themselves to direct fire and the only way you will move it is with a dozer. These can be improved with grenade sumps, drainage, com wires or whatever you could imagine. The disadvantages would be exposure to fire from the flanks and while moving to the position, and mowing them would be a bear. Of course to actually build these you would start by digging the hole, building the mound then lining the hole. – D.M.

Dear Mr. Rawles,
After reading the entry this morning about using fishing line as an anti-personnel method (and specifically a reference to decapitating snowmobile riders) I looked around the Internet for this topic.  I found no credible evidence that this ever occurred.

There is an undocumented reference in the Wikipedia link mentioning decapitation with snowmobiles but without a reference. 

There is a lively discussion on the Mythbusters site.

The closest I came was a reference to sentencing for decapitation of a man hit by a snowmobile while the driver was going in excess of 100 mph and his friend was climbing from a partially frozen lake.  However that citation, as you can see is from a web site that also features “male enhancement” and so the credibility of that suffers as well.

So from my research so far I would say this part of the post is “Busted.”  Nevertheless, it still raises the potential utility of using heavy-gauge fishing line as part of a tangle foot defense, especially if done in concert with cans filled with stones as a non-powered sonic alarm (as you described in your first novel).

JWR Replies: You are correct: It isn’t decapitation.  It is usually chest, neck and head trauma, to varying degree. And it isn’t “monofilament fishing line”–it is usually horizontal wire that is the source of injuries to snowmobilers. Wire or cable typically has a much higher breaking strength than monofilament.