Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Emergency preparedness is a good thing for governments to focus on. But whether talking about the Elliot Lake mall collapse in Ontario or the ongoing efforts to turn Calgary’s communications back on, there’s ample evidence that governments are simply incapable of adequately tackling the complexities of disasters confined to even a single building. If something big ever happens — and sooner or later, something always does — we should all expect to be on our own for days, or longer. The systems we’ve built to support ourselves are just too complicated to repair any faster than that.” – Matt Gurney, The National Post, July 12, 2012

Essential Medical Skills to Acquire: Part 2, Suturing, by Cynthia J. Koelker, MD

In Part 1 of Suturing I discussed several aspects of wound closure, including goals of treatment, common lacerations, alternate wound closure techniques, types of suture to purchase, wound cleansing, sterile field, needle size, proper instruments, correct suture placement, and aftercare.

In Part 2 of Suturing I will address common mistakes to avoid.

Wound closure is not rocket science, and any adult of average intelligence can learn the basic techniques.  Anyone who has sutured has learned from their own mistakes and those of others.  The following advice will help you skip a few errors and should make you look like a professional.

Common Suturing Mistakes to Avoid

Diagonal sutures yield misalignment, often with “dog ears” or leftover skin remaining on one side, which will cause a puckered appearance or open area at one end.  Make sure to align the edges well and place your sutures exactly perpendicular to the wound edge, aligning each stitch as you go.

Over-tightening yields inversion of sutures, that is, the edges dip into the wound, which prevents proper healing.  The sutured wound may look great, but what you really have is intact skin butting against intact skin, which of course isn’t going to grow together.  You need to have raw edge against raw edge, preferably with these edges everted a little (tented outward a bit).  As the wound heals they will flatten out.  Eversion is best accomplished by making sure you suture to the full depth of the wound with stitches as far from the edge of the wound as the wound is deep.  If the wound is a quarter-inch deep, sutures should be placed a quarter-inch away from the wound on each side, yielding a distance twice that (or one half inch) from side to side.

Likewise, suturing uneven thicknesses together often yields overlapping skin edges, which also will not heal together.  In this case the raw skin edge overlaps onto intact skin.  Take care to check each suture as you go for tension adequate to close the wound but not enough to overlap tissue edges.

Under-tightening yields loose sutures with a gaping suture line.  Be sure to use the surgeon’s knot (a double loop) on the first throw (half knot) of each suture.  This prevents knot slippage, which is especially helpful with nylon suture.  Raw tissue must touch raw tissue for the body to bridge the gap quickly.  It’s not that a gaping wound won’t heal, it will just take longer and cause a wider scar.  Everting the edges a bit, a millimeter or two, helps prevent this problem.  

Superficial sutures result in poor healing.  Your stitches may look great on the outside, but if the deep layers do not touch each other, they cannot grow together.  Make sure to close the laceration to the full depth of the wound.

Using large needles and/or suture material on fine skin yields needle-hole scars.  On tender or facial skin, better to use multiple fine sutures (5-0 or 6-0) placed closely together than try to bridge the wound using fewer, larger sutures.

Using too fine of suture on areas of greater thickness or tension may yield stitches that pull through.  Only use 5-0 on fine skin such as the face, fingers, or children’s skin.  Use 4-0 for most standard lacerations where the wound is just through the skin and/or where tension across the wound is minimal.  Use 3-0 for deeper lacerations into the subcutaneous tissue and/or where tension across the wound is greater, especially over large joints.

Leaving sutures in too long also results in needle/suture hole scars.  On fine skin which is not under tension 3—5 days is sufficient.  Average lacerations not under tension require 5—7 days before removal.  Deeper wounds or skin under tension require 7—10 days, though up to 14 days is recommended if healing is in doubt.  In patients whose sutures are left in longer they typically become embedded in the healing skin, which makes them difficult to find and remove.  If you suture someone up, examine your work daily to get an idea of the rate of healing. This only takes a minute or two, and also helps diagnose infection early.  If in doubt whether it’s too soon to remove stitches, take out only one or two in a non-critical area and see if the suture line holds.  Sometimes doctors take out alternating stitches one day, then the rest a few days later if wound strength is in question.

Leaving infected sutures in results in needle/suture hole scars and delayed healing.  Once a wound has pus coming out or begins to look red and swollen, all sutures should be removed.  The wound will heal better once the pus is rinsed out, though may well require oral antibiotics (cephalexin, trimethoprim-sulfamethoxazole, or amoxicillin-clavulanate are all good choices).  If the infection is caught very early, removing the stitches and applying a topical antibiotic such as bacitracin, Bactroban, or possibly Triple Antibiotic Ointment may be sufficient.  (Doctors seldom recommend the latter due to increased likelihood of allergic reaction, but if it’s all you have I’d use it.)  I have not used honey for this purpose, but it may work as well.

Sutures placed too close to the wound edge may pull through.  Placing your sutures about an eighth to a fourth inch from the wound edge is about right – the deeper the stitch is, the wider it should be.  Better a bit too wide than too narrow.

Just as women can learn to make a dress by reading a book, you can learn to suture on your own.  However, most people feel more comfortable if they’ve had professional supervision, at least to begin.  To this end I offer workshops several times per year where students can perfect their skills and receive professional instruction.  (See my web site for upcoming classes.)

In the next article I will discuss Splinting and Casting. 

About the Author: Cynthia J. Koelker, MD is SurvivalBlog’s Medical Editor, the author of the book Armageddon Medicine, and the editor of ArmageddonMedicine.net   

Letter Re: Army Scout Field Manual Available Online

JWR,
I thought I’d take a minute and recommend an Army Field Manual (FM) that I don’t see referenced too often here. It’s FM 7-92 (“The infantry reconnaissance platoon and squad; airborne, air assault, light infantry”) with Chapter 9 for MOUT/urban operations. This version is a little hard to find, so here’s the link.  Just don’t ask why I had to go to Marines.mil to find it.

This version dates back to the late 1980s and early 1990s, so the emphasis less on mechanized reconnaissance, technology, and general eye candy – unlike a majority of the scout FMs in current publication. It covers water movement, tracking, dismounted infiltration, etc. It’s also interesting to see the parallels between these older scout FMs and the newer six-man sniper teams. Having been in the scout platoon of the 187th Infantry Brigade, I’m sure that I’m a little biased, But from my perspective this is one of the most valuable FMs out there for WTSHTF.  Of course it should be read after the general infantry FMs, but the focus here is on small group operations, and helps to develop the skills needed to extend your area of influence well beyond your own personal camp-de-resistance.

Enjoy, – Robert in North Carolina

Letter Re: A Flooded Basement and Rusting Canned Foods

Hello Mr. Rawles,
Regarding the man who found his canned food rims rusting in his basement. I can recommend OSPHO, which is a liquid which will upon application changes the rust to a more stable compound. I was in the Merchant Marine and we used it on the ships and it works very well. You can get OSPHO through Amazon.com or at a ACE hardware store. It is basically phosphoric acid [suspended in a coating.]
 
He may also want to invest in a tabletop buffer or wire wheel to quickly remove surface rust before applying the OSPHO which improves the effectiveness.
Thanks so much for your site, I read it each morning. – Robb M.

News From The American Redoubt:

Radio Free Redoubt has uploaded an after-action podcast about the the first T-REX (TEOTWAWKI Readiness Exercise) that was held August 10th, 11th & 12th.

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Yet another great video from Ttabs: Flying Elk River to Deary to Juliaetta to Craigmont, Idaho

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The Redoubt states are absent from this list: Traveling Soon? Top 10 U.S. States Plagued by Exotic Diseases

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Here are the Best Places to Live–in 2032. As usual, the Redoubt states are in the top half of the list.

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A trade group says it’s on the way to making Idaho the gunmaking capital of the nation

Economics and Investing:

Deutsche Bank Proclaims Western Currencies Worthless

Long live the debt ceiling – approaching the fiscal cliff by spending $1 trillion more than is being taken in. A breakdown of government spending and revenues.

Sentinel ruling may hurt MF Global clients. Here is a key quote: “Futures brokers are required to keep customers’ funds in dedicated accounts to protect them from being used for anything other than client business. However, Thursday’s ruling suggests that brokerages can use customer funds to pay off other creditors…” [JWR’s Comment: When stealing a client’s money effectively becomes legal for futures brokers (and possibly for bankers), then what assurances do investors have? This is yet another reason to invest in tangibles that you hold personally.]

G.G. sent this interview: Coming: The End of Fiat Money.

And speaking of fiat currencies, see this over at The American Spectator: Fight The Fiat. (Thanks to M.E.W. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

The Rich are Hoarding Cash–And That’s Not Good

Oil to Get Boost on US Jobs Data:  Survey

Bernanke Just Assured That The Student Loan Bubble Will Be The “Next Financial Stability Issue”

Import Prices in U.S. Unexpectedly Fell in July for Fourth Month

Odds ‘n Sods:

Adam B. suggested this: Amish enjoy unexpected boom in numbers

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More in the Mayor Tony Mack saga: Woeful Trenton Sees Mayor Add Insult to Injury. So yet another member of Mayor Bloomberg’s Mayors Against Illegal Guns (MAIG) may soon do the perp walk and pose for a mug shot. Oh, and in case you missed it, Mayor Felix Roque was arrested in late May. And former Detroit Kwame Kilpatrick’s trial on additional corruption charges is scheduled to begin on September 6, 2012. Both of them are also MAIG members.

Statistically, Bloomberg’s crack team of “crime fighting” anti-gun mayors seem to get arrested about as frequently as streetwalkers. Makes you wonder…

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Lessons learned from the 24-hour Sniper Adventure Challenge

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Disinformation: How It Works

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Hemsworth takes charge in intense first trailer for Red Dawn remake. (Thanks to James C. for the link.)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“We are locked into an unimaginably complex predicament and a system of dependency whose future seems at growing risk. To avoid catastrophe we must prepare for failure.

We are entering a time of great challenge and uncertainty, when the systems, ideas and stories that framed our lives in one world are torn apart, but before new stories and dependencies have had time to evolve. Our challenge is to let go, and go forth.

Our immediate concern is crisis and shock planning. It should now be clear that this is far more extensive than merely focusing on the financial system. It includes how we might move forward if a reversion to current conditions proves impossible. That is we also need transition planning and preparation. Even while subject to lock-in and the reflexivity trap, this will be most effective if it works from bottom-up as well as top-down.

Finally, neither wealth nor geography is a protection. Our evolved co-dependencies mean that we are all in this together.” – David Korowicz, Trade-Off: Financial System Supply-Chain Cross-Contagion: a study in global systemic collapse, published by The Foundation for the Economics of Sustainability (FEASTA)

Beyond the Defensible Space: Fire Safety and the Structure of Your Home, by Matthew Stein

Given the record breaking droughts, heat waves, and fire storms of the summer of 2012, if current scientific predictions of global warming prove anywhere near correct, then the we can expect that this scary situation will become the new normal  in the coming years. Whether you are a homeowner wishing to improve the fire resistance of your current dwelling, or are planning to build a new home, beyond creating a “defensible space” around your home there are a number of other actions you can take to improve the chances that your home will survive a local wildfire. These guidelines are typically applied to homes located in areas where long periods of dry weather are common, such as many of the western states. However, due to changing times people in many areas where the threat of wildfires was previously a non-issue are now finding it to be a growing concern.

Lessons from the 1993 Laguna Fire

In October 1993, when a vicious wildfire broke out in Laguna Beach, a southern California beach town, firefighter John Henderson was called down from his home in the Sierras of northern California to fight this blaze. The combination of extremely dangerous fire conditions, brought on by three consecutive drought years coupled with 60 to 70 mph hot and dry Santa Ana winds, quickly whipped the fire into an unstoppable conflagration, burning hundreds of homes to the ground! When John rounded a corner on the Pacific Coast Highway, just north of Laguna Beach, he saw a sight that he will never forget. He and his partner watched the firestorm rush down the dry hills toward the ocean. The heat of the firestorm was so intense that, even after blowing across four lanes of pavement, it was hot enough to ignite a mile-long stretch of wooden telephone poles on the ocean side of the road. From a distance, he said they looked like a string of matchsticks stuck in the sand, igniting one after the other until there were perhaps a hundred telephone poles burning at once.

• Many if not most homes burned from the inside out when firestorm heat radiated through closed windows and slipped inside through foundation and roof vents to ignite interior curtains, rugs, etc. Double-pane windows and heavily insulated walls will slow the rate of heat penetration into interior spaces.
• The only buildings to survive the Laguna Fire had insulated walls, double-pane windows, and blocked or minimized venting. A well-insulated, well-sealed building envelope, and high thermal mass, will slow interior heating and ignition.
• Minimize venting, and screen all vent openings to prevent flaming embers from entering vents. Removable fire-wall vent blocks should be placed in front of foundation and roof vents during periods of extreme fire danger to keep hot air from easily penetrating the building envelope.
• One of the few Laguna homes in the path of the firestorm to survive had a 40-foot-wide strip of the green succulent “ice plant” (creating an excellent “defensible space”) and a concrete tiled roof (an exceptionally fire resistant roof). The firestorm blew right over the top of the ice plant and the house, dropped burning embers on the concrete tile roof, roasted a 10-foot-wide swath of ice plant, but failed to ignite the building’s structure.
• Stucco, cement, or earthen walls are preferred. If wood siding is desired, it should be applied over a ?-inch sheetrock fire wall for improved fire resistance. Cement-based weather board can look like wood but give you cement board’s superior fire resistance. Even with a stucco or cement weather-board sheath, an underlying wood-framed wall might ignite if the firestorm gets hot enough.
• All projections (roof eaves, etc.) should be protected on the underside with cement stucco or cement board (like Certainteed or Hardie Board) that looks like wood. A less-preferred alternative is to paint natural wood with fire-resistant coating to improve its resistance to ignition by burning embers. Hot air rises and can easily ignite roof overhangs in a firestorm.
• Coat wood decks with multiple layers of a fire-resistant urethane deck covering (Pacific Polymers or similar) or treat wood decking with fire-resistant coatings (Fire Stop or similar).
            Note: Chemical treatments, such as Fire Stop, will inhibit ignition by burning embers, but will not prevent ignition due to a super hot firestorm. A stucco coat (¾ inch or thicker) on the underside of wooden decks was credited with saving two homes in the Laguna Beach fire. There is a new fly-ash composite decking board from LifeTime Lumber that has a “Class A” fireproof rating, and is LEED certified for its recycled content, that can be used to build high-quality fireproof decks. Trex and many of the other similar competing composite decking manufacturers have come out with “Class B” fire-resistant wood/plastic composite decking to meet California’s new wildland fire codes.
• Use only “Class A” fire-rated roofing systems, which are rated to prevent both the roofing material itself, and roofing underlayment (plywood) from catching fire when covered with burning embers. Most asphalt and fiberglass shingles are Class A rated, but metal roofing usually requires the use of Versashield underlayment (or equal) to achieve this rating. “Living” roofs (planted sod) have excellent fire resistance as well as thermal mass and insulation. With Class A roofing, the eaves and overhangs are the most vulnerable areas of the roof owing to the fire down below. 
(Above list adapted and expanded from John Underwood, “Fire Resistant Details: Studying the Houses That Survived the 1993 Laguna Beach Fire Storm Yields Lessons in Building to Withstand the Heat,” Fine Home Building.com)
            There are a number of building systems that are inherently fire resistant. Basically, if it is earth or concrete based, it is very fire resistant. Also, if you fill the wall with foam or straw, to eliminate dead air spaces and the chimney effect, and sheath the wall with stucco, earthen plasters, or cement board, even if it is wood-framed it will have good fire resistance. Do your best to make your roof, eaves, and decks fire resistant too, since your home will only be as fire resistant as its weakest link. Obviously, traditional stone, brick, and concrete-block construction are also quite fire resistant, provided their roofs are not a weak link in the system.
            With burning embers settling on rooftops, in many cases it is the roof that forms the weak link in the fire-resistance chain. Traditional wooden shake and shingle are notorious for catching on fire from burning embers. For fire-resistant roofing, consider the following options:
• Use only “Class A” fire-rated roofing.
• Class A roofing must withstand burning embers on roof without igniting plywood sheeting.
• Most modern composition (asphalt) shingles are “Class A” fire-rated.
• Metal roofs transmit heat easily to the underlying plywood, so they tend to be not as fire resistant as you might imagine, unless they are underlaid with an insulating flame-resistant lining. They are usually only Class A fire resistant with the addition of Versashield underlayment (or similar).
• I recommend two layers of Versashield FR underlayment (or similar) FR barrier for extra fire barrier between metal roofing and its underlying plywood sheeting.

NOTE: This article was adapted from the author’s book When Disaster Strikes: A Comprehensive Guide for Emergency Planning and Crisis Survival.

About the Author: Matthew Stein is SurvivalBlog’s Back Country Editor. He is a design engineer, green builder, and author of two best selling books:When Technology Fails: A Manual for Self-Reliance, Sustainability, and Surviving the Long Emergency and When Disaster Strikes: A Comprehensive Guide for Emergency Planning and Crisis Survival.. Stein is a graduate of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) where he majored in Mechanical Engineering. Stein has appeared on numerous radio and television programs and is a repeat guest on Fox News, Coast-to-Coast AM, Alex Jones’ Infowars, Vince Finelli’s USA Prepares, and The Power Hour.  He is an active mountain climber, serves as a guide and instructor for blind skiers, has written several articles on the subject of sustainable living, and is a guest columnist for the Huffington Post. His web sites are www.whentechfails.com and www.matstein.com

Pat’s Product Review: BTB Sport Optics Sunglasses

I don’t care how many times I tell students who are coming to take a firearms class from me to bring hearing protection and eye protection. And, more often than not, at least half the students don’t bring either eye or hearing protection. I keep a box of soft foam ear plugs and safety glasses on-hand at all times, for those forgetful, or maybe they are neglectful students.
 
My eye doctor tells me, there is no cure for blindness. And, for hearing loss – well, it’s something a lot of people learn to live with, with either hearing aids, or they are always saying “what did you say?” because they didn’t hear what you said. I know I’m guilty of having a hearing loss. When I was young and dumb, I often didn’t wear hearing protection when I was shooting, and I’m paying for it now.
 
I used to ride motorcycles a lot, matter of fact, it wasn’t until six year ago, that I sold my last two motorcycles. When I got my first bike back in 1970, I did wear sunglasses during the day, and no eye protection at all, when I rode at night. I can’t tell you how many pairs of sunglasses got broke or the lenses cracked, when a rock or other road debris came flying at my eyes. Luckily, I never had a foreign object actually penetrate the sunglasses and hit my eyes. However, more than a few bugs hit my eyes, and if you ride bikes, you know about bugs in your teeth. It wasn’t until about 10-12 years ago, that I started wearing safety glasses when riding my bikes, as well as wearing a helmet – as required by law in my state. Anyone who rides a bike without an approved DOT safety helmet is only asking for a serious injury. My regular UPS driver recently wrecked his bike. As a matter of fact, he was almost clinically dead on the scene. A nurse who witnessed the accident actually performed CPR on him until an ambulance arrived. Luckily, my UPS driver was wearing a helmet – and after two months, he’s finally back at work.
 
I recently received a pair of BTB sunglasses, and you really need to check out their web site to see the wide selection of sunglasses they carry. I guess what I like most about their sunglasses is that, they don’t have a one-size fits all – they actually come in different sizes, for different size heads. I received the BTB 800 series polarized sunglasses for testing. And, needless to say, they are polarized, which comes in mighty handy when you’re out in the bright sunlight or fishing over water – they really cut the glare down. You even receive a micro-fiber pouch to carry your sunglasses in – this helps prevent unwanted scratches on the lenses.
 
A little background on BTB Sport Optics is in order. For more than a year, BTB were test marketed at professional events, trade shows and retail establishments, gaining valuable insights and feedback from the marketplace. The market message was clear and consistent. Due to the economic times and increasing education of the consumer, high priced sunglasses were not selling. High priced sunglasses retailing between $75 to $200 plummeted and inventory levels of the perceived “high quality” industry leaders steadily rose in the retail sector. Understanding this trend, BTB wanted to introduce a line of sport and recreational sunglasses that provided, superior optic quality, complete UVA and UVB protection, frame construction materials of the highest quality and durability, complimentary styles and formed fit for comfort and aggressive and an affordable price point. And, as SB readers know, I like to spend my money wisely, getting the most out of every penny.
 
Some of the features of the BTB sunglasses are: lenses provide 100% optic clarity, frames are made from Grilamid TR-90 and designed using an 8 to 10 base curve, the sunglasses are “formed fit” for comfort, temples and nosepieces are made from hypo-allergenic material and coated with an anti-bacterial agent for heavy perspiration environments. They also exceed ANSI, OSHA and military impact specs, and the lenses are “ballistic” rated. Okay, that last one “ballistic rated” caught my attention. Watch the short video and see how these sunglasses were tested. Very impressive – they took a hit from 30-feet away, with birdshot and there was no penetration. Now, don’t go thinking these sunglasses will stop a 9mm round – they won’t. No sunglasses will. However, where these sunglasses shine would be, for our military personnel, who might get hit in the face with shrapnel or other debris – it can make the different between saving your sight, or losing it because you didn’t wear any eye protection. Take note!
 
I’ve been wearing my sample BTB 800 sunglasses for two weeks now – fishing, shooting and driving, and they actually do fit like a glove – very comfortable. I like the wrap-around fit, too – if you’ve ever been hit in the face or eyes with flying brass, from a shooter next to you, then you’ll appreciate the wrap-around design – that empty brass can’t hit your eyes from the side, unlike other sunglasses that only provide frontal eye protection.
 
I counted no less than 16 different styles of sunglasses on the BTB web site – so they will have a style for just about anyone. And, as I mentioned, they comes in different sizes, too. So, it’s not like you are forced to wear a pair of sunglasses that fit your wife, but are too small for you, or a pair that fits your husband, but are too big for your face. I’ve easily spent $50+ for Foster Grant sunglasses, and while they looked super-cool, they didn’t afford my eyes protection from flying objects that would hit them – especially when riding a motorcycle. The BTB sunglasses afford you not only ballistic eye protection, they also are very stylish and afford full UVA and UVB protection from the sun.
 
The BTB web site described their product as “the best $100 sunglasses for $50 and under…” and I can’t find any fault in that. My sample 800 series retail for $49.95, and easily worth double that price. BTB also offers free shipping  on orders over $40.00. And, I’m betting you’ll find a couple pair of BTB sunglasses that you’ll want, for yourself and your spouse.
 
I can’t tell you how important it is, to wear some type of eye protection when your out shooting, or riding a bike down the highway. You only have one set of eyes, and you need to protect them as much as possible. If you’re in the military, or you have a loved one who is serving, get them a pair of BTB sunglasses – they’ll thank you. They really will. You could spend a lot more for sunglasses of this quality, but you simply won’t get any more for your money, nor will you get better protection. Spend your dollars wisely, and check out the BTB web site. I’m betting you’ll find a style that will catch your attention, and you’ll be doing your eyes a favor, too.

Letter Re: A Flooded Basement and Rusting Canned Foods

Greetings Jim,
I hope you can help me figure out if much of my preps are imperiled. I had water leaks in my basement a few months ago after major storms overran my roof’s gutters and caused water to seep down
into the front half of my basement. So I turned on the dehumidifier I keep in the basement and let it run until the basement floor was dry, then let it run an extra 24 hours just for good measure. Well, there appears to be a bit of residual moisture in the air in my basement, and when I went down into my basement a few minutes ago after being gone for a couple weeks, I glanced over at a shelf of canned goods and noticed that just about all the cans on that shelf–more than 300 cans on that one shelf, plus a couple thousand other cans of items–are showing rust on their rims. I’ve got a huge investment in canned goods in addition to hundreds of pounds of dry goods, and I’m really worried now about losing well over 1,000 pounds of canned goods if this rust poses a risk. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

God bless, – Chad

JWR Replies:
Once rust starts on bare steel it is very hard to stop.

1. Keep that dehumidifier running! Even though a concrete floor appears dry, it can still hold a lot of moisture. An accurate Air Humidity Monitor is a good investment.

2.  Buy a quart or two of clear lacquer.  At this point, even though it is laborious, you need to lacquer the tops and bottoms of all of your steel cans, and the metal lids of your home-canned jars to arrest the already started oxidation process.

Letter Re: Common Ground With Greens

James Wesley:

While the compact fluorescent bulbs are good at saving energy, even better are LED bulbs. I know they are expensive, but they are coming down in price and can be had at very reasonable prices on eBay. Not only that, but they “burn” cool to the touch and contain no mercury. A broken CF bulb practically warrants a HAZMAT crew! L’s last even longer than compact fluorescent bulbs and are made of plastic so there’s no worries about breakage. I’m building a solar power system for my home, and plan on switching to LEDs. – Dave, RN

Recipe of the Week:

Michelle W.’s Baked Oatmeal

The following shared with me by my wonderful neighbor and adopted mom, who received it from the owner of a bed and breakfast in the heart of Amish country, Lancaster Pennsylvania.

I double the recipe, mix it overnight and cover with plastic wrap, and store in the fridge. the next morning, as soon as I awaken, I remove wrap, put pan in a cold oven, turn oven on to 350 and bake about 1 hour or until the top is brown and crunchy.  I like to add fresh fruit (blueberries, peaches, apples are divine) prior to baking but my son prefers it plain. This is my “go-to” dish when I have a houseful of guests for holidays.

Baked Oatmeal
Preheat oven to 350
In a 2 qt baking dish, mix well:
2 eggs
1 C packed brown sugar
1/2 C vegetable oil  (can substitute applesauce but top will not be as crunchy)
1 tsp vanilla

Add and mix well:
3C oatmeal 
1C milk
2 tsp baking powder
pinch of salt
1 tsp cinnamon/spice of your choice

Bake about 30-45 minutes or until top is brown and crunchy

Chef’s Notes: Serve warm with milk.

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

The Ultimate Oatmeal Cookie Recipe

Strawberry Oatmeal Cobbler

Currently Available as Free Kindle e-Books:

Recipes Tried and True

Pennsylvania Dutch Cooking

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!