Pat’s Product Review: Buck Knives Hood Hoodlum

It’s nice when a real survivalist designs something, instead of an arm chair commando or wannabe survivalist. The late Ron Hood was well respected in the survival field, as a true expert in wilderness survival techniques. Hood collaborated with Buck Knives (www.bucknives.com) , to come out with the Hood Hoodlum fixed blade survival knife. Unfortunately, about a week after the knife came out, Ron Hood passed away – a loss to us all, and he will be missed.
 
Ron Hood also spent 20 years teaching accredited college courses on survival skills. Not too many survival instructors I’ve heard of that have taught accredited courses on survival in college. My late friend, Chris Janowsky, who ran the World Survival Institute up in Tok, Alaska used to teach the US Marine Corps survival instructors winter survival skills, and Chris could have easily taught accredited college courses on survival techniques. But there just aren’t too many survival instructors out there these days who have the background and know-how to teach accredited college courses.
 
As soon as I received the press release on the Hoodlum, I requested a sample, that was in January 2011 – and I only just received my sample a few weeks ago. Was it worth the wait? You bet it was! As SurvivalBlog readers know, I’m a fan of big knives, especially if you are dealing with wilderness survival. There’s more tasks that you can accomplish with a big, stout, fixed blade knife, than you can with a small folding knife.
 
The Buck/Hood Hoodlum has a 10″ blade made out of 5160 spring steel, and the overall length is 15.5″ – so you know you have a big knife in your hand. The blade thickness is 3/16th of an inch – thick enough for tough chores, and thin enough to make the knife balance nicely in the hand. The Hoodlum really shined at chopping chores around my small homestead, and it would easily chop through some fairly thick tree limbs. There is also a small “cut out” in the blade backbone for scoring bone, to bending wire, to removing pots from the campfire. The knife is plenty big enough for defensive/offensive purposes, too. The handle is made out of Micarta – I would like to see G-10 handles scales, as it is stronger than Micarta – and who knows, maybe Buck will come out with a G-10 handle version. There is also a lanyard hole in the butt of the knife.
 
The Micarta handle scales can be removed – if you have a multi-tool – and you can create a spear by lashing the Hoodlum to a tree branch. There is also a very well made MOLLE compatible, heavy-duty black Nylon sheath, with a front storage pocket – read: sharpening stone or multi-tool pocket, and the sheath is lined, to prevent the knife from cutting through should you take a fall. As big as the Hoodlum is, it balances very well, and only weighs-in a 14.6 oz. Best of all, the Hoodlum is made in the USA – after Buck Knives moved to Post Falls, Idaho, they have been having some of their knives made overseas – not a bad thing, as it saves them and the consumer money, and you get as good of a knife as you want from overseas. Still, it does my heart good to see any products that bear the Made In The USA moniker stamped on ’em.
 
I showed the Hoodlum around to quite a few folks, and the first thing they all said was “wow” when they pulled the knife from the sheath. They were totally impressed with the overall length of the knife, and secondly, they couldn’t believe how well-balanced the Hoodlum was. And, they all commented on the outstanding sheath. Then “the” question – “what’s this cut-out in the handle for?” In short order, I explained that the Hoodlum was designed for hard-core wilderness survival, and the “cut-out” was for scoring bones from game animals they might take, as well as for lifting a pot off the ol’ camp fire – I could see the light bulb go on over their heads. Something sooooo simple, yet soooooo useful on a big knife!
 
The 5160 spring steel is made out of carbon steel, but there is a coating of some type on the blade, to help prevent the blade from rusting. Still, it’s a good idea to keep a coating of Birchwood Casey Barricade (formerly sold under the trade name “Sheath”) on the blade to prevent rust from getting a foothold. I use Barricade on all my guns and knives – even the stainless steel ones (remember, stainless means they “stain less”) and they can still rust if you don’t take care of them. In a wilderness survival situation or a SHTF scenario, you have to take good care of your weapons and tools – you may not have a second chance if you tools and weapons fail you when things go bad.
 
I found the Hoodlum to be very fast in the hand using slashing moves. However, the knife wasn’t designed as a stabber – but I could still stab into stacked cardboard as deeply as I wanted the blade to go. Never mind what Hollywood might say about knife fighting – when it gets down and dirty, most knife fighting will be slashes and not stabbing – although, a finishing move might entail stabbing. Still, it’s best to slash as the arms, hands and legs of an attacker – cut those tendons and they can’t hurt you any longer.
 
I also used the Hoodlum around the kitchen for cutting chores. While it’s not any sort of a paring knife, it was great for slicing ham slices for Christmas. It also chopped various veggies with aplomb, too. I took the knife up to one of my rural shooting areas on top of nearby mountain, where poachers are always dumping illegally taken deer carcasses, and used the knife to easily chop through the bones on the carcasses – so it is a great chopper and easily broke through the leg and hip bones of deer carcasses without much effort. And, before I get a ton of e-mails about the poachers, I have called the local fish and feathers guys numerous times – they are aware of the area – but are so short-staffed, they can’t sit there and watch for poachers to dump the carcasses all the time. I despise poachers! And, I have turned in a few when I saw them doing things that were illegal.
 
If the SHTF, or we were faced with an end of the world situation, I wouldn’t hesitate for one moment, to grab the Buck Hoodlum and bug out for the boonies, with this being my only knife. It would take care of all the wilderness survival tasks I could possibly ask of it. Now, the good news – at least I think it’s good news. I honestly expected a knife of this quality to be in the $300+ price range. However, Buck’s full retail price on the Hoodlum is only $230. Yes, I know, it’s still a good chunk of change, but you are getting a lot of knife for the money. BTW, these can sometimes be found for as little as $116 on Amazon.com and eBay. If you were to have a similar knife made by a custom knife maker, it would easily sent you back $400 to $500 – depending on who makes it for you. And, as always, shop around on the ‘net, and you’ll find the knife a bit less than retail – but be advised, they are a little hard to find right now – they are in great demand from those who are in the know.

Letter Re: A Reliable Propane Insulin Refrigerator

James:

I’d like to suggest one solution for grid-down insulin refrigeration: I have purchased a Dometic RC4000 3 way portable refrigerator for insulin.  It runs by 12 VDC,  120 VAC  and LP gas.  It is an absorption type ammonia system (as used in recreation vehicles) and appears to be a high build quality unit manufactured in Hungary.  It is the size and shape of a large wheeled ice type cooler but with only a small 1 cu ft cooled area.  It is perfectly suitable for long term insulin protection and uses 1 lb of propane a day  =  18 days from a typical barbeque-sized 20 lb tank.  With no moving parts it is expected to last a long time. [JWR Adds: These can also be plumbed to much larger domestic propane tanks. Or, if you have a large tank with a “wet leg”, you can refill small tanks from it, repeatedly, if you buy the correct adapter fittings. Call you local propane distributor, for details. Be sure to consult your local fuel storage ordinances before doing do.]
 
Performance is as follows:
13.3 VDC @ 6.0 Amps  is  unregulated at 40F below ambient.
120 VAC has a 7 position thermostat and regulates from 22.5F at pos 7 to 42.5F at pos 1.
LP gas with regulator (supplied) has 3 settings providing 20, 30 or 40F below ambient.  The regulator required adjustment but was adjustable.
 
I purchased the unit for under $400 including shipping from PPL Motorhomes. Regards, – A-Man

Two Letters Re: Driving, Post-TEOTWAWKI

JWR,
I have deployed twice to Afghanistan. [Details deleted, for OPSEC.] I am sure that you realize this and I hope you will share this with your readers. Waiting months after TEOTWAWKI to drive to your retreat is more than foolish, it is suicidal. Anyone driving post-event without an armored vehicle (or with one, just look at the ambush scenes from “Patriots“) will take casualties. Every day in Afghanistan uneducated people with limited training successfully ambush and kill highly trained military personnel driving heavily armed and armored vehicles. Now imagine an ambush that has had months to be perfected, probably through trial and error, where the ambushers are equally equipped [as you]. if not better equipped. Under these circumstances the convoy would simply have no chance. Very Best Regards, – Mike A.

Good Day, Mister Rawles,
Thank you as always for the good work you do. Regarding a late convoy out of Dodge I have this to add. I can only imagine that if you have to stop for a tyre change then you will become powerful goblin magnet. Needless to say it will not be a good time to be breaking rusty wheel bolts free with an old tyre iron. Thusly it’s imperative that your wheels have been previously removed and meticulously reinstalled prior to your leaving. Your spares (yes, plural per vehicle) should be mounted to the outside of your vehicles. On a roof rack or tailgate would be the traditional approach.
The previously mentioned  maintenance vehicle running second to last in the pack will want to be equipped with a professional grade jack capable of lifting both the highest and lowest cars in your convoy, and a well charged cordless impact driver with spare batteries and labeled sockets for each vehicle is imperative.
You want to to be thinking NASCAR pit crew, not roadside assist. Any observers will have less time to organise and will also determine that you’re going to be a tougher nut to crack than the usual TEOTWAWKI tourists.

Of course it’s also essential to have iron clad rules in place to determine when a vehicle must be abandoned and its occupants/cargo redistributed. I say “iron clad” because your buddy may balk at leaving their BMW X5 in the ‘burbs when its automatic transmission packs it in.

“But I still have first gear. We can just go slower, right?” As I said, Iron clad rules.
Kind Regards, – The Apple Islander

Economics and Investing:

John R. recommended a podcast interview of Martin Armstrong: Capital Controls Coming In The US

Stephen M. sent this: Record Consecutive Treasury Dump From Fed’s Custody Account. [JWR’s Comment: And this comes amidst Eurozone turmoil when U.S. Treasury paper should be seen as a relative safe haven. So this some very bad news!]

The fragility of “Just In Time” inventory processes: Global Economy Could Endure Disaster For Only a Week. (Thanks to Steve H. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

The Possibility of $1,000 Silver Before Hyperinflation

Factory Orders Rise, But Business Investments Slip

Oil Price Stays Around $103 a Barrel

Ambrose Evans-Pritchard:  2012 Could Be The Year Germany Lets The Euro Die

Odds ‘n Sods:

The Beast of the Bronx: Three-foot rat ‘found in New York City shoe shop‘. [JWR’s Comment: So what’s next? Enormous killer cockroaches?]

   o o o

Reader Steve H. mentioned this review of a sturdy battery charger: Joos Orange Solar Charger.

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Gregg P. mentioned some free courses offered by way the AMA: CitizenReady.

   o o o

This one put your Editor into a laugh spasm: The single greatest Amazon product review ever written: “Blood Rayne Arm Blade With Sheath & Adjustable Handle.”

   o o o

B.B. sent this: As Crop Prices Soar, Iowa Farms Add Acreage

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“When private industry makes a mistake, it gets corrected and goes away. As governments make mistakes, it gets bigger, bigger and bigger and they make more, more and more because as they run out of money, they just ask for more and so they get rewarded for making mistakes. In the meantime that is exactly what we are doing by subsidizing companies which are failing, we have a reverse Darwinism, we’ve got survival of the unfittest, the companies and people that have made terrible mistakes are being rewarded and other people are being punished and being taxed.” – Peter Schiff

Notes from JWR:

Do you have any favorite quotes that relate to preparedness, traditional skills, self-sufficiency, economics, self-defense, or individual liberty? If so, then please e-mail your properly attributed quotes to us and they will likely be featured as SurvivalBlog Quotes of the Day. (We’ve now archived more than 2,300 quotes.) Thanks!

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Today we present another two entries for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 38 ends on February 29th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Driving, Post-TEOTWAWKI, by B.E.

The TEOTWAWKI has occurred and you have made the decision to G.O.O.D. and head to your retreat location.  The electricity is out, but your vehicles still work.  You’ve stayed in your house for the last few months, kept a low profile, and have been able to avoid the initial chaos and Golden Horde of people leaving the cities.  Ideally, your suburban neighbors and relatives are somewhat prepared and you have banded together for protection and mutual sharing of resources.  Your retreat location is big enough for your family plus three other families.  How do you safely drive everyone to the retreat location?  As a convoy commander in Baghdad, Iraq, I had the opportunity to lead 50+ convoys in and around Baghdad during one of the most violent periods of the war.  We had great TTPs that allowed us to successfully accomplish our mission and move through the city.  I understand that there are many TTPs out there for various situations and not all are the same.  I am going to focus on the very basics so that a non-military minded individual can understand and implement these suggestions.  There are several specific/complex scenarios that have already been covered in older posts, and I will not cover them here.  For this scenario, I am going to assume there are eight vehicles (two per family) of various makes and models that are capable of driving to the retreat location.  Whether there are 3, 6, or 10 vehicles in your group, these basics can work, but obviously there is strength in numbers. 

First, it is important to understand the current situation in the area between your home and your retreat.  Attempt to get as much information as possible regarding weather, road conditions, routes, and how much criminal activity is on the roads.  If you have lived in the area for longer than a year, the only unknown will be whether parts of your route are still open and the level of criminal activity.  If you have the extra fuel, take two vehicles and try to recon part of the route.  The more you know before you leave your home, the better.  Because you waited for a few months before deciding to leave, more than likely there will not be a lot of vehicle traffic on the roads because no one will have gas anymore and the roads will be too dangerous.  You should already have planned and driven the route to your retreat location multiple times prior to the SHTF.  Take out a map, sit down with your fellow families and thoroughly go over the route.  Identify potential choke points (areas that force your vehicle to go through a tight spot, with no alternatives, that are great ambush spots).  Identify what type of roads you will be traveling on.  Are they 4-lane or 2-lane?  Are they back-country roads or interstate?  How many overpasses are there and do we go under them or get off the freeway and go over them?  What about road blocks?  Do you have alternate routes planned?  What intersections are in our route?   All of these questions need to be discussed, and analyzed using a road map before you leave. Remember, this is a one shot deal; you will not be returning to your home, so make it count! 

The next step is organization.  What order are the vehicles going to be in when you travel?  I realize that there are multiple variations of vehicles in a neighborhood, but this can still be done even if you have eight 4-door sedans.  Your lead vehicle should be one that is relatively fast, and should be higher off the ground, such as an SUV or pickup truck.  The higher seats give the driver and passenger more visibility when on the road.  This vehicle should be armed with at least a rifle that has some reach.  I am not going to discuss shooting from a moving vehicle.  What is important is that you are able to reach a target while stopped a few hundred yards away.  Your slower moving vehicles such as minivans should be in the middle of the group.  If you have multiple SUV/ pickup trucks, spread them out between the slow vehicles as these will be your primary firing/maneuvering platforms.  Your second to last vehicle should be where you keep all of your vehicle maintenance supplies.  If one of your vehicles has a maintenance issue, you do not want to make the maintenance repair vehicle turn around to help.  Your last vehicle should be your rear security vehicle.  Its entire job is to make sure no one attacks the vehicles from behind.  It should be armed and able to quickly maneuver. 

Now that your vehicles are organized, where do you put all of your stuff?  We have already discussed where maintenance items should be placed.  The main bulk of your medical items should be in a vehicle towards the back of the convoy for the same reasons as the maintenance items.  It is a good idea to keep some medical items in every vehicle; however, the “reinforcement” items should be in the rear.  High powered weapons and optics should be placed in the front and rear vehicles.  Generic items such as water, food, solar equipment, personal items, etc. should be placed in the middle vehicles.  If possible, put high value items in vehicles that have tinted windows to minimize visibility.  Keep some “barter/bribe” items in the front vehicle.  If you are forced to go through an area held by looters, you might be able to pay them off to get through.  For personnel organization, keep the kids in the middle, non-fire/maneuver vehicles.  For those who can shoot, keep them in the fire/maneuver vehicles.  When planning where everyone will sit, if possible, try to keep enough seats empty so that if one vehicle gets disabled, those personnel can get in another vehicle with minimal delay.

Once you have determined your route, organized your vehicles, personnel, and equipment, it is time to rehearse.  Actually taking your vehicles and driving around will be next to impossible, so plan on the next best alternative.  Get a whiteboard/chalkboard or even just a piece of paper, and draw out your vehicles in order.  Make sure you discuss the following: 

– Go over the route and make sure everyone knows what actions will be taken at choke points, intersections, and “danger” areas. 
– Identify who is responsible for different tasks to include a primary and alternate.  For instance, if you have someone who is mechanically proficient, make sure they are driving/riding in the vehicle with the maintenance equipment, and designate an alternate mechanic in another vehicle.  The same applies to the medical vehicle. 
– Who is the overall leader?  If that leader becomes incapacitated, who is in charge?     
– What is your communications plan?  If you are traveling through an intersection, how does the lead vehicle know when the last vehicle has passed through it?  What needs to be identified over the radio and what is not important? 
– Establish check points along your route that can be referenced over the radio as a rally point, re-grouping point, rest point, etc. 
– Determine the distance between each vehicle as you drive.  There needs to be enough space between each vehicle so that there is enough time to stop quickly, maneuver quickly, and avoid having multiple vehicles disabled at once.  The lead vehicle should be several vehicle lengths ahead of the second vehicle so that it can warn the rest of the group and be the only casualty should there be a disabling explosion/trap to take out the lead vehicles. 
– What speed are you going to drive?  Are you going to go as fast as you can for the entire trip, or slow down at different areas?  
– Review different situations and scenarios that could happen during your drive.  Cover medical emergencies, mechanical issues, disabled vehicles, ambush reactions, fire and maneuver actions, loss of communications, and actions to take if the vehicles get split apart.  For example, let’s say a tire blows on one of the “slow” vehicles.  You have a spare, but it will take some time to replace the tire.  What do you do?  Do you get off the road you are traveling on and find somewhere to remain out of site?  Do you stop on the side of the road and swap out the tire?  Either way, once the maintenance repair vehicle pulls up next to the vehicle with the flat tire, make sure a fire/maneuver vehicle is right next to it providing security so the people on the ground can get the tire fixed.  This is just one way to deal with this particular scenario.  I am not saying it is the best way.  I am purposely not going into the weeds on every possible event.  It is important to make sure you rehearse and properly execute the best actions to fit your situation.

During rehearsals, it is important to go over the responsibilities of every person in the group.  The passenger in the lead vehicle is one of the most important positions.  He should be constantly watching the road for traps, road blocks, and disabling obstacles.  The passenger in the rear vehicle should be constantly watching the back of the group.  If possible, he should face to the rear with a set of optics so he can see any approach.  Every person in the group should be looking out of their windows and watching for any activity that might potentially be a danger to them.  Look for any groups of people that might be waiting to intercept vehicles.  There might be “scouts” with handheld radios on an overpass watching for upcoming vehicles so they can attack your group at a future point on the road.  I am not going to discuss what to do if you are directly attacked.  If you can, get away from it as quickly and safely as possible.  If it is unavoidable, come up with a plan using your fire/maneuver vehicles and try to overwhelm the enemy with force.  The quicker you show the enemy that you are not backing down and are in fact going to be a hard target, the more likely they will retreat and look for a soft target.      

A final major decision that you will need to make is whether or not you travel by day or by night.  They both have advantages and disadvantages.  One key advantage to traveling by day is visibility.  You will be able to see potential threats from a greater distance than by night.  Unfortunately, this works both ways and you are also more visible to potential attackers.  Traveling at night gives you the advantage of less people potentially out on the roads, and the ability to turn off all of your lights and “disappear” if needed.  Keep in mind that traveling at night without NVGs will require everyone to drive slower, because your visibility is limited to how far you can see with your headlights.

As I said from the beginning, there are multiple ways to do things.  The key is to have a plan, and stick to the plan so you can safely get to your final location.

Five Things Every American Should Do But Won’t by Dennis E.

We’ve all seen him on the news: The guy who is buying sheets of plywood, beer, potato chips and other survival essentials as the approaching hurricane can be seen over his shoulder in the distance.

Unfortunately, the majority of Americans aren’t much better when it comes to being prepared for emergencies. However, recent disasters have proven that the sheer magnitude of an event can overwhelm relief efforts, coupled with cutbacks in personnel, budgets and equipment, place the onus squarely on our shoulders.

Many citizens don’t see the need for preparedness, and that’s their prerogative, however a relatively small investment now for someone who is concerned about the possibility of a disruption due to a natural disaster, pandemic, terrorism, civil unrest or countless other possible scenarios, might mean the difference between a week or so of hungry terror or a week of edgy survival. Most people think of some wild eyed mountain man when the word “survival” is mentioned, but that’s no longer the case. When the Government strongly suggests preparing, there’s a reason behind it.

The ever-increasing list of disasters and emergencies that can put you on your own is a long and often dangerous one. The violence and mayhem associated with black Friday will look like a minor scuffle when food shortages or any one of a hundred scenarios spark riots. Food flew off the shelf and stores were emptied in hours before the big snow hit the East coast last winter. With municipalities cutting essential services like law enforcement, the chances of having to “hunker down” increases exponentially.

Now the caveat: Being prepared doesn’t guarantee survivability, but it does greatly enhance your chances if the event is survivable. The following list is by no means inclusive as there are thousands of variables, i.e., suburban versus rural, gated community vs. projects, the type of disaster, number of persons being prepared for and on and on.

Even with the countless variables, there are some basic necessities that are essential regardless of location or emergency. The following items are simply a starting point that will assist you in thinking about establishing some sort of basic preparedness program. They will greatly improve not only your survivability, but your level of comfort in terribly uncertain times.

While FEMA recommends three days of emergency provisions, and it is a start, given the current climate, a week’s supply should be an absolute minimum starting point, and a several month stash would be better and a year would be ideal. Keep in mind that these items cannot be placed in order because of the countless variables.
You’ve made your decision, so now you need to get down to the business of survival.

1. Water. Absolutely essential for drinking, hygiene and cooking. Remember all of the people who had ample warning sitting on their roofs during Katrina? Imagine how much comfort a measly couple of bucks worth of bottled water would have done to reduce the misery factory. While one gallon per person per day is recommended, enough to drink would certainly be better than nothing at all. Even a few hours of thirst can cost you your edge. Several cases of bottled water would go a long way during an emergency and you can replace it as you use it. A good quality water filter could be worth its weight in gold. If you have a pool, with proper filtration, chemical treatment or boiling, it can be used as a potable supply and for hygiene as well. There are 40 or more gallons of water in your water heater that is potable. I wouldn’t have a problem drinking water that is years old if it was properly stored.  

2. Food. Another essential. You can go days or even weeks without food, but who wants to? Something you wouldn’t even consider eating under normal circumstances could look mighty good if you’re starved. Granola bars, canned food and crackers could mean the difference between a clear head or one thinking about a cheeseburger. Every time you go shopping, put in an extra few items that you normally eat. Check the expiration dates and get items with a long shelf life if possible. If something happens, you have food you’re used to and you can use it up as part of your regular food supply. Dehydrated food like instant potatoes, macaroni and cheese, ramen, and hundreds of other products can be integrated into your supply and rotated out while being replaced with fresh ones. Drinks like Tang and powdered lemonade will store indefinitely and would be a welcome addition to any meal during times of trouble. Another advantage is, if you use the foods you store you will have less of a shock if trouble hits. A little thing called “food fatigue” can easily cause you to lose your edge if you end up eating peanut butter for every meal because that’s all you have in the pantry. Canned food are terrific for affordable disaster prep. The following excerpt from the Food and Drug administration is a remarkable example of food’s storage ability:

“The steamboat Bertrand was heavily laden with provisions when it set out on the  Missouri River  in 1865. The boat snagged and swamped under the weight, sinking to the bottom of the river. It was found a century later, under 30 feet of silt a little north of Omaha, Neb[raska].    
  
Among the canned food items retrieved from the Bertrand in 1968 were brandied peaches, oysters, plum tomatoes, honey, and mixed vegetables. In 1974, chemists at the National Food Processors Association (NFPA) analyzed the products for bacterial contamination and nutrient value. Although the food had lost its fresh smell and appearance, the NFPA chemists detected no microbial growth and determined that the foods were as safe to eat as they had been when canned more than 100 years earlier”. 

We regularly ate ten year old canned goods at grandma’s house without side effects and granny ate frozen game that was over ten years old. (It did finally catch up to her at 103, God rest her soul.)

3. Shelter. You have to stay alive to ride out an event. For most of us, staying at home would be the ideal situation. However, any number of situations can require “bugging out” to a shelter or other safe location. Most of us have relatives within driving distance or know someone who might put up with us for awhile. If not, as a last resort the government or the Red Cross will usually provide emergency shelter, however a disaster as opposed to WTSHTF will have two completely different sets of dynamics. Have a plan nonetheless. If you have to stay and shelter in place at your home, business or apartment, or hit the road to get away from civil unrest, a chemical spill, fire or hurricane, you need to have a plan and be prepared to implement it. A bug out bag or get out of Dodge bag contains emergency supplies if you have to go mobile, and is an art form in itself when it comes to putting one together. 

4. Emergency Equipment. In addition to food, water and shelter, there are several essential items that will be required in the event you are on your own. Extra medicines are top of the list, particularly if they are required daily. A good first aid kit is another must have. An LED flashlight and lantern with extra batteries are essential. It sounds impossible, but there are several lights from one to three dollars that fit the bill in the form of solar garden path lights. While they don’t put out tons of light, they provide enough light to navigate around a dark house and work as a flashlight and reading light in a pinch. They can be recharged in the window sill in the daytime and will run 8-10 hours every night. I recently purchased several at a local superstore for $1.00 each! Ten bucks worth allows you to put one in every room and several in the main gathering area. Now granted, they aren’t as good (or as expensive) as a battery operated lantern, but they are safer than a candle, and have the ability to recharge themselves. In short, they are not designed for emergency use, but work incredibly well for it.
Warm clothes, sleeping gear, a camp stove and emergency sanitation gear are also essential.
 
Hygiene can be a real challenge, but a roll of heavy duty trash can liners can have numerous uses. If your sewer is down as is common after an earthquake, flooding or power outage, you can line the toilet with a bag and when it is full, change it out. A couple of large trash cans can hold the waste until service is restored. Several boxes of wet ones will allow you maintain basic hygiene as well. A bottle of regular unscented bleach is another dirt cheap, yet invaluable item.
 
Last but certainly not least is some sort of self defense. While there are as many opinions as there are corrupt politicians when it comes to self defense, whatever you get, make sure you become proficient with it.  WTSHTF you will have enough on your plate to deal with.

5. Time Killers. Even if the emergency is only a 48 or 72 hour event, you will want to have some playing cards, books, a Bible and board games on hand to help kill the time. You might even include some hard candies and other treats as well as coloring books and crayons for the younger ones. Now I know that I will garner some vitriolic comments over the Bible, but remember the old adage, “there are no atheists in foxholes” and I absolutely believe a foxhole might be preferred to the street when it all comes falling down.

The Internet is a goldmine when it comes to prepping. Start researching and download as much as possible and burn the info to CDs or a thumb drive. I have a solar power supply to run my laptop so WTSHTF, I still have access to thousands of articles and books on how to survive – info that might save a life.

Factors preventing many people from preparing are the “it can’t happen here” mentality, and plain old fear or a sense of being overwhelmed. People with the former attitude won’t see a need to prepare, and that’s their choice. (Until something happens and they expect the government to take care of all of their needs.) As for the latter, there is nothing wrong with fear, particularly the “where does one start” quandary, if it is turned into positive action. Instead of worrying about the future, prepare for it and get on with life. We’re talking about simple and subtle changes in your lifestyle, mostly relating to shopping and food storage habits. No one is advocating that you become a mountain man and eat roots and bark. Simply realize the need for a minimal amount of preparation, formulate a plan and get started working toward your goal, and pray that you never need to use it.

Letter Re: Clarification on Stockpiling Nickels?

Dear Editor:
I have a question about the saving of [U.S. five cent piece] nickels, is it for the value of the metal in nickels or [is it for] the value when the government changes the metal composition? I have read on some sites that it is for the metal meltdown in case of government collapse. If it is for that, then all coins after 1965 have the same metal content. Why keep one coin in particular? If it is for the value after the metal change by the government, will it not take a decade or two to bring them to a value that makes them worth keeping. I have been on two different web sites that supposedly know the metal content of coins and they both differ. For example coinflation.com says the after 1965 dimes, quarters and half dollars have 91.67% copper with 8.33% nickel. The other web site usacoinbook.com says the same coins have 75% copper with 25% nickel. Which is right? If this web site is right then why not save all coins that have 75% copper with 25% nickel? Thanks, – John T.

JWR Replies: Please re-read my static page about Nickels.  I consider them a multipurpose hedge, for:

• A currency swap
• Slow currency inflation
• Rapid currency inflation
• A total currency collapse

I believe that you misread the web pages that described the composition of currently circulating coins. To clarify:

Post-1945 U.S. five cent pieces (“nickels”) are 75% copper and 25% nickel. They presently have a base metal value that exceeds their face value.

Post-1964 U.S. dimes, quarters and halves are 91.67% copper and 8.33% nickel. They presently have a base metal value much less than their face value. (For example, a 25 cent piece has a melt value of only 4.8 cents.)

That is why I recommend stocking up on nickels, as long as you can continue to acquire get them at face value. A composition change (to steel nickels) is coming soon, so get your nickels by the roll, before you have to start sorting the wheat from the chaff. I believe that the pending bill H.R. 3694 (the Saving Taxpayer Expenditures by Employing Less Imported Nickel ACT — aka the “STEEL Nickel Act) will be signed into law in 2012 .The window of opportunity is closing. I’ve warned my blog readers about this inevitable change for more than three years. This is your last chance to stock up on real nickel Nickels!

Economics and Investing:

If you’d like some insight on the derivatives market, then don’t miss this interview: Ann Barnhardt & Warren Pollock Have an Open Conversation

Joe W. sent this news from Germany: Fearful Investors Stash Money in Luxury Goods

Items from The Economatrix:

34 Shocking Facts About US Debt That Should Set America On Fire With Anger

Eight Analysts See Gold Going to $3,000 to $10,000 in 2012

Silver Sales Up As Supplies Slip

Gold Jumps As Citi Says Gold Sell Off Over, Reiterates $2,400 Gold

Odds ‘n Sods:

A reminder that just until January 15th, Safecastle is offering the maximum allowed 25% discount on all Mountain House can varieties. Order soon!

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Cash-sniffing police dogs? Tax inspectors hit target in Italian ski resort. (Thanks to SurvivalBlog’s G.G. for the link.)

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My old friend Bob G. sent this great YouTube link: How to Make a 60 lb PVC longbow for less than $10.

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I heard that Freeze Dry Guy‘s seven-day “Just In Case” food supply units are back in stock at $125 per case, with some great bonuses for multiple case purchasers, including copies of the book Nuclear War Survival Skills and E&W Water Filters. Supplies are limited. Call them for details.

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Reader N.L. wrote to mention that he had heard that the second season of Doomsday Preppers (produced by the National Geographic Channel) will premiere on Tuesday, February 7, 2012.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“O death, where [is] thy sting? O grave, where [is] thy victory?
The sting of death [is] sin; and the strength of sin [is] the law.
But thanks [be] to God, which giveth us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ.
Therefore, my beloved brethren, be ye stedfast, unmoveable, always abounding in the work of the Lord, forasmuch as ye know that your labour is not in vain in the Lord.” – 1 Corinthians 15:55-58 (KJV)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 38 ends on February 29th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Get and Use Your Ham Radio License, by Mrs. R.L.B.

Just because there is a sewing machine in my house doesn’t mean I think any of my family members can sit down and sew a dress.  The same goes with your ham radio.  If you are one of those folks who bought one for when the SHTF thinking you will be able to just set it up and use it, you might be unpleasantly surprised. Why not make sure you have a ham radio license and become proficient with your radio?  It’s probably a good idea to dust it off anyway and make sure it is still working.  Some have internal RAM chips that die after so many years (ICOM 745 and 751A) and should be upgraded internally.
 
There are many good reasons to get your ham radio license now for the practice and camaraderie you can enjoy now before the SHTF.  As a ham radio operator, I have had a lot to learn even after getting the license, including which equipment to acquire and radio and antennae set up.    Despite fears of losing OPSEC, there are ways to manage location issues and I think the benefits of practice now far outweigh OPSEC risks.
 
Getting the technician license is not “technically” difficult.  For all levels of ham licenses, the technician, general and extra, ham radio stores like HRO (ham radio outlet) have study guides with the questions and the answers in the back.  When taking the test, it will be the same questions from the same question pool.  You can Google your local ham radio clubs to find a point of contact on the exams.  Usually there is a small fee (about $5) for the exam.  After you pass, the examiner will send your application to the FCC and a few days later your license comes.  The license is good for 10 years, regardless of if you upgrade before then, and you simply get online to renew it.
 
The technician license allows you to use the 2 meters and higher frequencies found on repeaters everywhere.  Hook up a mobile radio in your car or truck and you are in business.  Your local store or club will most likely know someone who can do an installation if you are uncomfortable installing one in your car. The radios for use at technician level will give you some range locally, but some repeaters are linked together on a system and will give you an extended range.  For instance, in California there are groups of connected repeaters so when a net is held, you can hear people from the Los Angeles area down in San Diego.  A net, by the way, is when one person acts as a control operator and ham operators check in from all over the area and say hi, give news, and also can advertise ham equipment for sale. 
 
The next level up is a General Ham license.  This is the level I have and recommend as a minimum to serious preppers.  Now you can broadcast worldwide and with that comes the practice of setting up some serious antennas, measuring SWR (standing wave ratio) and other important skills for being able to operate a radio.  While Morse code is no longer a required skill for attaining this level, it’s something I’ve chosen to learn and practice.  It adds a layer of privacy.  By FCC rules, we cannot not legally conceal the meaning of a message.  But having a little Morse code under your belt when no one else is required to learn it helps reduce who will understand it.  Having said that, be mindful that there are plenty of old timers out there who still know Morse code. Enough said.
 
Going the next step to get an Extra Ham license does give you more frequency privileges.  Trust me, studying up for this exam is tough. You may not need this level for prepping and knowing how to set up your equipment, but you can decide for yourself after you’ve attained the General level.  There are plenty of ham radio books to supplement what you might need to know, including books on basic electronics.
 
So let’s talk equipment: There are several sites on the internet to buy a used radio if you are on a budget.  I am hesitant to recommend buying a radio on EBay unless you carefully check seller feedback and/or are doing it for spare parts.  Some sites for used equipment are www.eham.net or http://swap.qth.com/.  Also check the web site www.qrz.com/.  Do your research.  But I think the best source of used equipment is through the contacts you make in a ham radio club or on a net.   You are more likely to get good reliable equipment or good information on equipment because after the sale you are still in contact with that other operator, and they know they will hear from you if something goes wrong.  I was able to get a wonderful ICOM set through another ham, because he knew an older ham whose health was failing and needed to sell the equipment.  I saved big bucks, and the gentleman got the money he needed.  Equipment also gets sold when a ham operator passes away (called a “silent key”) and family members don’t know what to do with the equipment.  I have seen ads for large radio towers that are free, but someone has to disassemble and move it.  As some of the towers are huge and weigh a few thousand pounds, it’s not always an easy thing to do.  Many hams have extra equipment that they’d like to sell as they upgrade to other radios, and the older equipment is still very viable   I recommend to anyone who is looking to buy used equipment to do their research and talk to other hams.  Find a mentor or an “Elmer” as we call them.  I have an Elmer and he has been superb!  He got me into a club and on a net, and I plan to branch out a little more in the future.  The club and net are an invaluable source of information.
 
I have also bought some new equipment through the local ham radio store.  It’s nice to go in, learn about the options and see the equipment.  I get help with my purchases if I come back with questions about set up.  I have found that Yaesu radios are a little harder than ICOM radios to “understand” their set up, and it’s not because I’m blonde.  They also sell computer software on the side for programming Yaesu’s.  Supposedly that’s easier.  Glad I am not learning how to do this in TEOWAWKI.
 
For an antenna, the simplest one to install is a dipole.  Simply running an elevated wire horizontal to the ground, a length depending on a wavelength ratio, with a feedline is the cheapest way to go.  But there are so many other types of antennas, there may be one that is better suited to your situation.  A Yagi, or directional antenna can assist you on tuning in to a more distant frequency.  There are a variety of portable antennas available as well, and many hams pack up and travel to distant locations for the fun of working remotely from places.  There are specialized antennas for vehicles.  ARRL has a an entire book devoted to just antennas.
 
You may want to consider starting with hand held radios, UHF/VHF.  If you get your General license, you can get hand held radios with upper HF range.  Remember, the lower the frequency the greater the range as a general rule.  Repeaters add to the UHF/VHF range, but are less private than using simplex frequencies.  I have a hand held that goes to 6 meters, the range is better and there are some 6 and 10 meter repeaters out there, too, just not as many.  I have used my hand held in one of my cars with a larger antenna outside the car, and when I am not in the car, I screw on a smaller antenna for walking around.  Some hand-helds as well as “desk style” ham radios transmit data as well.  There are so many applications in ham radio and so many ways to configure for your personal preferences.   If the internet goes down, you can still transmit a message!   It can get  expensive, so do your research as you go into this to be sure how you would best see yourself using a radio to get your needs met.  This is where a good Elmer can really help.
 
Other skills picked up from ham radio like soldering and understanding electronic theory has come in handy when repairing other household items.  Like many things in my life, the skills learned in one application have come in handy in other applications. 
 
Encourage your family members to get their licenses as well, and make Christmas and birthday presents of ham equipment where you can.  Practice with those family members just as you would try to reach them in TEOTWAWKI.  This will help you know what frequencies work best for that distance, solar conditions, time of day, etc.  Yes, it all changes!  Isn’t this a better time to find out how to use your radio like a pro rather than when you really need it?
 
Being part of the recent San Diego blackout, I can tell you it was hard to get through on the cell phones, but I got on my VHF radio and could communicate. (Yes, I’m moving out of Southern California!)   On the local repeater I was able to hear why we had a blackout, how extensive it was and what was happening on the roads.   My neighbors knew none of this, as even the local radio stations went down for awhile.   I heard one gentleman with medical problems asking for help because he needed electricity for his medical device.  The emergency net was hard at work getting emergency care to him.  Wouldn’t this be a great option to have for your family?
 
After the blackout, one of the tasks I took to heart was identifying several repeaters that were annotated in a repeater directory as having emergency backup power.  I made a comprehensive list and passed it to family members.  Yes, emergency power may be time limited, but it’s a few extra hours of communication with family that may make all the difference in a bad situation.  A repeater directory can tell you what repeaters may be most helpful.  Again, practicing with the repeaters is important.  I have dialed in many a repeater to learn that no one else appeared to be using it, it was inoperable or that it had incorrect tone information.  Glad I know now.  Also learning which repeaters are physically accessible to your location is important, for instance, if you are in a valley or dip, you may not be able to hit it. 
 
A bit about OPSEC:  when you put down an address on your licensing application, it is one more thing that becomes public record.  If you are worried about future uses of that personal information, (i.e. equipment confiscation) then using a different address than your retreat address may be something to consider. [JWR Adds: Consider any mention of your callsign in any public venue essentially the same as giving someone your street address, since all licensee addresses are available in a matter of a few moments, by visiting QRZ.com. And if you have an unusual surname, you can have your address found there, as well.] The address has to be [a physical] one the post office can deliver to. Also you can plan to take an exam in a different region as call signs are assigned based on regional areas.   If someone really does want to find your radio, they can do so using DF (direction finding) equipment.  You can make this more difficult for locating by limiting the time on the radio, having preset times and frequencies planned ahead for when you feel you might be at risk of this.  Knowing the distance your signal has to cover, and using appropriate bands now will better your chance at effective, concise communications when you really need them.  Another thought on OPSEC with regard to your radio, some come with features that allow another user to display location.    This feature is called APRS, for Automatic Position Reporting System.   Depending on your situation, it could be an asset or a liability.  I choose to avoid this feature.  Also consider how you buy your radio:  is there a record of the purchase?  Some stores track who the radio is sold to and of course there’s a record with a credit card purchase.  New equipment means there is a warranty registration, etc.  Here is where buying a used radio can be a real advantage.
 
There are many roles that ham operators can play in disaster preparedness, whether it’s just for your family or operating in a disaster scenario on a larger scale.  It’s a personal choice.  The main point I hope to drive home to you is that it is not a simple thing to just set up a radio and antennae and operate it.  Like many of the skills we practice now for survival tomorrow, it must be exercised, practiced and learned.  When you need to reach family and agree it’s time to get out of Dodge, you will want to be able to hear them answer you back.  73 to all.