Tatume Squash For Your Survival Garden, by John D.

When most people think of post collapse survival, one of the major topics that first comes to mind is food.  The internet is full of articles and forums dedicated to canning, hunting, gathering, and of course, gardening.  What I don’t often find, are articles specifically dedicated to a particular item of food to be grown in a garden, explaining perhaps why it would be a beneficial plant to start growing now.  For me and my own gardening, I have gone from complete and utter newbie, to successful builder of soil and harvester of many delicious edibles.  Through out this period of trial and error, I just selected at random packets of seasonal and organic seeds from the local nursery, and while hoping for the best, I would continually return to the net for tips on how to deal with this pest or that fungus.

Having suffered more failures than successes, and now with several growing seasons under my belt, I have narrowed the field of which species I plant in my various garden beds.  One species stands out as a new favorite of mine, and this species will be the focus of this article.  It is a summer squash called Tatume. 

I live in Austin, Texas and basically have a year round growing season.  This past winter was mild, so by mid-March I had summer and winter squash already planted and sprouting in the garden.  Like most people, I planted the usual suspects; zucchini, yellow crookneck, acorn, and sugar sweet pumpkins.  After a nice early harvest began at the outset of summer, the dreaded squash moth arrived.  Leaves began to wilt and turn yellow, and I started spending more and more time on my hands and knees wiping the moth’s small red eggs from plant stems.  Worse still, I started finding my self more and more often having to use a razor blade to cut small windows into the squash vines so I could exorcise the chubby, white grubs from within.  Of course, my chickens loved the vine borers, but I was growing frustrated with fighting a losing battle.  Even carrying a fly swatter and striking down the moths themselves when I could was not enough to prevent my entire planting from finally succumbing to the borers.  What had been a great spring where I was pulling large quantities of squash every week, became a depressing summer of empty beds where so much green had once thrived.

In conversation with a fellow gardener, I mentioned my loss, and she clued me in to the Tatume squash.  She had recently planted some herself after a similar loss of her own plants.  According to what she had read, the vines of the Tatume are thinner and denser than those of most other squash, and make traveling within them more difficult for vine borers.  She also had read that Tatume re-rooted themselves from their vines frequently, providing auxiliary points along the plant where nutrients could be drawn from the soil should the central vine be lost to pests.  I had to try growing this wonder plant for myself after she ended the discussion by stating, “I hear the problem with Tatume isn’t keeping them alive, it’s controlling them!”

About a week later, my seed order from Baker Creek Heirlooms came through, and I had several packs of Tatume seed.  As it was not (at the time) available at the local nursery, I figured I would make a large order for my personal seed bank, should the species prove to be as resilient as my friend claimed it to be.  I went outside and pulled together several mounds of soil in three different garden beds, and in each mound I planted three seeds.  The results have been nothing short of extraordinary. 

First, the vines do indeed grow long and fast.  Assuming an infestation of vine borers was inevitable, and knowing that they can decimate the primary vine of a plant quite quickly, I wanted to make sure these plants laid roots in several places.  I buried the nodes of each vine in several locations with rich soil, and watered these areas just as I watered the central vine.  While I believe this practice helped, it may not have been specifically necessary, as the plants seemed fairly interested in re-rooting themselves of their own volition. 

I noticed that the squash moth did still lay eggs on Tatume plants, but interestingly enough, they didn’t seem to lay nearly as many eggs as they were laying on my hubbards, my acorn squash, or my remaining (and struggling!) zucchini.  Out of the fifteen Tatume seeds I planted, I still have fifteen living and healthy plants, and I only had to cut two vine borers out of the entire group.  This was early in their development when I noticed a bit of frass on the central vines.  The borers I removed were small, and had barely damaged the plants, which I believe was in fact due to the tighter, denser nature of the vine structure.  Most of the suggestions one finds on the Internet concerning how to deal with squash vine borers revolve around covering plants with netting or using some form of pesticide, including BT injections.  For anyone planning a survival garden, relying on anything that needs to be purchased from a store is unacceptable.  It makes far more sense to be finding workable solutions now, and that includes the selection of the most reliable and defensible plant species.

Of course, so many fecund and spawning squash plants in one area will draw in another pest; the squash bug.  My own garden began to attract squash bugs once my Tatume were sprawling over many square feet of space and producing fruit.  Early detection is not only key, but it’s quite easy for the observant gardener.  These little insects come in droves, colored an orangish red as young nymphs, then growing into large gray stink bugs if left unattended.  Walking around with a jar of soapy water to knock them off of the plant and into, hand squishing, and a light coat of flour sifted onto the plants (and washed off three days later) was enough to rid me of their nuisance in under a week.  I also suggest keeping various insect repellant herbs planted throughout the garden as well as members of the daisy family which will attract assassin bugs to your aid.  I know of one gardener who makes a Tansy tea (Tansy is a flower in the Aster/Daisy family) which he then sprays directly onto his food plants, bringing the assassin bugs to live upon them in full force.  The only drawback is that assassin bugs can kill pollinators such as bees, so use with discretion.

The fruit of the Tatume plant has the color and flavor of a zucchini but is shaped like a small pumpkin.  Native to Mexico, the Tatume is used in a dish called “calabacitas” and is itself often referred to as “calabacita” (meaning “little squash.”)  We are suffering a hard drought here in central Texas, yet my Tatume thrive.  I credit this primarily to my regular watering, but also to the possibility that being a native of Mexico has granted Tatume at least a moderate drought and heat tolerance.  As temperature zones are shifting, with warmer weather sustaining for larger portions of the year further and further north, as well as the extension of drought conditions, and even the possibility of water supply disruption due to collapse related events, having seeds in your survival arsenal that can handle such conditions is a must. 

Falling under the Curcubita Pepo grouping, this would mean that Tatume can cross pollinate with all others in this category, including zucchini and crook neck squash.  As seed saving is crucial to those planning a survival garden, this means either not growing other C. Pepo, separating them by large distances, or hand pollinating.  Personally, not wanting to deal with the pest issues associated with these other squash, I would elect to only grow Tatume as a summer squash.  It should be noted as well, that C. Pepo can in fact cross pollinate with C. Maxima (Buttercup, Hubbard) as well as C. Moschata (Butternut) requiring the above mentioned precautions.  Like all squash, the seeds are large and plentiful, so collecting, drying, and storing them for the next season’s crop is extremely easy.  I would imagine preparing the seeds as one would pumpkin seeds, would also yield a tasty snack.

The summer is now waning, and I’m seeing squash moths less and less.  In the past week, I haven’t had to make my regular rounds of plant inspections, obsessively removing moth eggs from the undersides of leaves.  As I walk through the garden with my watering can every morning taking in the beauty of those bright orange flowers open to the rising sun, inviting in bees and ants, I am thoroughly rewarded for such diligence.  I bend over to gently pull apart the still ever expanding network of dark green vines which are engulfing my garden beds to find softball sized, evergreen globes waiting for me.  While I still struggle at times with other food plants, these struggles are a reward as well.  While the grocery stores are still open, failure isn’t critical, and these failures inform us of what plants we can reasonably expect to rely on when a crisis does arrive, and which will ultimately sap us of more energy than they will give us.  After a wonderful and productive season, I cannot recommend strongly enough that you too begin experimenting with Tatume squash in your home garden and kitchen.



News From The American Redoubt:

Keeping track of trends in The American Redoubt, it appears that both Idaho and Montana will follow Wyoming’s lead and will enact Constitutional Carry (unrestricted concealed carry) in the next sessions of their legislatures.

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Guns galore draw enthusiasts to tactical expo. (And here is a link to their web site. I predict that it will be a much larger event, next time.)

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Teton County hunters quick to grab wolf tags. And in other hunting news, the top prize for a Stating The Obvious headline goes to: Wounded grizzly bear in Eastern Idaho could pose danger.

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Emergency-preparedness company moving to Boise



Economics and Investing:

p>Deustche Bank: Western Economies Are Screwed, And Investors Face A ‘Disturbing Paradox. The article begins: “In a new report entitled Gold: Adjusting For Zero, Deutsche Bank analysts Daniel Brebner and Xiao Fu paint an incredibly dark picture of the bind the global economy is in right now. Brebner and Xiao are pretty frank about how levered up the financial system is at the moment, and they warn that the next shock will be totally involuntary and unexpected.”

John Mauldin: QE Infinity: Unintended Consequences

Those pesky derivatives again: Deriving the True Size of U.S. Megabanks Is Far From Simple

Items from The Economatrix:

Draghi And Bernanke’s Worst Nightmares Are About To Unfold

Fed’s Fisher Says U.S. Inflation Expectations Rising

The Trouble With Printing Money:  QE3 Reflects A Colossal Failure To Address Our Predicament



Odds ‘n Sods:

Lyme Disease Hits Big in Australia. (Thanks to F.G. for the link.)

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SurvivalBlog’s Editor At Large Michael Z. Williamson spotted this: Pre-Peeled, Re-Wrapped Bananas Are the Most Wasteful Sign of the Apocalypse Yet

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File under Emerging Threats: Police: Serial burglars used Facebook to find victims. (Thanks to J.B.G. for the link.)

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Some great commentary by Enola Gay in the Paratus Familia blog about living in wildfire country: Identifying Hazards

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The folks at Directive 21 are now offering Mountain House freeze dried foods packaged in food grade buckets.





Note from JWR:

Please wait until tomorrow (Tuesday, September 25th)–which is also our planned Book Bomb day– to order your copies of Founders: A Novel of the Coming Collapse. Thanks!

Note to book dealers: For ordering case lots of the new hardback (20 copies per case, 23 lb. shipping weight per case), contact Simon & Schuster’s wholesale order desk.



My Once in a Lifetime Accident: SUV vs. Puma Concolor

I try not to bore my readers with the minutiae of our day-to-day life here at the Rawles Ranch. It is largely a fairly mundane annual rhythm of planting, harvesting, calving and lambing, wood cutting, huckleberry picking, hay hauling, and so forth. But I recently had driving mishap that was noteworthy: I was driving our SUV and hit a mountain lion, in broad daylight. I must first mention that deer collisions are all too common here in The Unnamed Western State (TUWS), and that elk or big horn sheep collisions are quite a bit less frequent. Even more rare are moose collisions, and those never end well. (Moose are so tall that they often go over the hood of a pickup truck and through the windshield.) But to hit a mountain lion is about as common an occurrence as getting struck by lightning or winning the mega lotto. I did a web search and found that the popular press tends to spill a lot of ink over these rare occurrences.

Here is what happened: I was driving down the highway minding my own business with the cruise control set at the speed limit and listening to an MP3 of Taj Mahal singing “Queen Bee” (part of my collection of favorite air checks from KFAT.) Suddenly I saw a full-grown cougar bounding out of the tree line, at speed. It ran into the highway in front of me. I didn’t have any time to react. I heard it hit our deer bumper and then felt it go under the two driver’s side tires. So now the large predator population of TUWS has been reduced by one. In doing so, I probably saved the lives of hundreds of deer. It was a little sad to see a pretty kitty get squashed, but so be it.

By the way, I should mention that extra heavy duty “deer guard” bumpers are de rigeur, in this region. These are available commercially and are also often custom fabricated, locally. To give you a sense of their size, these make typical Ford or Chevy pickup factory “brush guards” look flimsy, by comparison. Typically, real deer guard bumpers weigh 300 to 900 pounds. In TUWS, we even see these mounted on a few passenger sedans. That is indicative of how many deer collisions take place here.

I’m sure that some readers were disgusted by the foregoing while others will be ready to send hearty congratulations. (As with other large predators, I’ve noticed that perspectives on the Puma Concolor tend to vary widely, depending on whether or not someone has personally lost pets or livestock to these land sharks.) I’d characterize my own reaction as muted. I felt fortunate that my vehicle wasn’t damaged (and with our bumper, it would probably take an elk to do any damage.) I also felt good knowing that I’d eliminated a predator that is presently a bit over-populated. But in a way I felt cheated. I’d much rather take a mountain lion in season after a long still hunt, from 300 yards, at 9X magnification. Or, better yet at spitting distance from beneath a snarling treed cat that has taken me and the dogs all day to chase down and tree. Somehow, just a heart-stopping glimpse and “whump-whump-whump” was just too easy.

I doubt that you’ll be reading about any other animal collisions from me in the future, unless I have another rare one. (I don’t even bother mentioning deer collisions, which we have every year or two.) By the way I did once almost hit a bald eagle, but thankfully a tragedy was avoided by the margin of just an arm-span.

So now I’m praying that some evening soon I encounter a horribly confused pack of wolves that stands transfixed in my headlights. But somehow I don’t think that is very likely. Bummer.



Pat’s Product Review: The 180 Stove

If many of you are like me, and are from the old Army school, you know all about canteen cup cooking. The old-style canteen cup had a locking “L” handle, that made it perfectly suitable for heating water in your canteen cup, as well as heating meals, or even cooking in that little cup. Today’s canteen cup that the US military issues has dual folding wire handles, that are not conducive to placing it on a fire – the handles are too close to the heat source. Sometimes “newer-er” doesn’t equate to “better” in my book. When you have something that works, and works well, you leave it alone, but the military isn’t like that for some reason.
 
I’m always looking for a way to lighten my backpack, and the older I get, the wiser I get – at least I believe so. It wasn’t that many years ago, when I could hump a CFP-90 pack, fully loaded, with a sleeping bag, and all the gear I needed for survival, and plenty of gear I didn’t need. Today, my CFP-90 sits in the back of my closet in my office. I’ve gone to a lighter and smarter pack for my survival and bug out purposes. And, if there is anything I can do to lighten my pack, and still maintain all the gear I need , I’ll do it. I’ve carried a small “stove” in my pack for a lot of years, only problem with this little stove is that it takes those little fuel tabs that the military used to issue – I don’t know if these tabs are still an issued item or not. But it was a hassle to have to carry enough of these fuel tabs for cooking on, for more than a day or two.
 
Enter the 180 Stove from 180 Tack, a Colorado-based company. The 180 Stove is a compact, folding, put-it-together camp stove, that is small enough to even fit in your rear pants pocket, yet large enough to provide an ample cooking surface for large cookware, as well as my trusty old-style canteen cup for heating water for coffee, tea or hot chocolate. What makes the 180 Stove a great backpacker companion is that you don’t have to haul any fuel for it. You can use twigs, sticks, dried grass, etc., for your fuel to cook with. Now, unless you’re in a barren desert, or the Arctic, finding some form or “fuel” shouldn’t be a problem for you. Heck, you can even use dried cow chips for a fuel if need be.
 
The 180 Stove takes about 30-seconds to assemble, and you don’t even need to read the instructions to put it together, it’s “that” simple. I like simple – simple is easier and usually fool-proof, too. The 180 Stove is made out of quality stainless steel, with interlocking components, so that there are no moving parts, hinges, welds or rivets that would normally cause a product like this to fail you in the field.
 
Unfortunately, the 180 Stove arrived during the heat of the summer, and we have burn restrictions in place – no open fires, period. However, I was able to test the 180 Stove in my covered carport, that has a gravel floor and is exposed on the front and the back ends. For fuel, I simply gathered some twigs and pine needles, and put them under the cooking surface of the stove and lit it. Inside of a minute or two, I had a flame hot enough to boil water and cook a burger. I needed to add some more fuel during the cooking process, but it only took a few seconds to take care of this chore. Very little fuel is need for cooking.
 
The assembled 180 Stove is 7″ long 6″ wide and 3.25″ high, the folded stove is 7″ long 3.25″ wide and 0.6″ high – we’re talking pretty compact. And it comes in a heavy duty plastic carrying case, so when you are done with the stove, and it has cooled, you simply disassemble it, place it back in the carrying case, and store it in your backpack ready for use once again. The stove only weight 10.4 oz and that’s a big plus. The less weight I have to pack, the better I like it.
 
Here’s some more of the pluses for the 180 Stove. It is truly a “green” stove and does not use toxic fuels. It’s light-weight since you don’t have to carry fuel, and it is super-strong (and made in the USA). The ease of assembly is another big plus in my book. Simply put the stove together, push a little soil along the sides or use gravel (as I did) then cook, douse and store the stove for another use. I don’t care if you live in the city or out in the boonies like I do, you can find some form of fuel to cook with, which makes this stove one of the best choices for cooking in the outdoors in a camping or emergency situation. The 180 Stove comes with a 2 year manufacturer’s warranty.
 
Hunting season is coming up, and if I can find the time to get out this year (didn’t make it last year) the little 180 Stove will be in my backpack, or in my rig. Should I find myself stranded out on a lonely logging road, I’ll have a stove to cook on, as well as providing some life-saving heat that can make the difference between life and death. In the past, I’ve resorted to a camp fire to cook on and keep me warm. The 180 Stove will eliminate the need for a big camp fire.
 
I wish I could write more on the little 180 Stove, however, because it is sooooo simply, and very effective, I find I’m limited as to what I can say about this outstanding product – other than, “why didn’t someone come up with this great product sooner?” Sure, there are some other similar stoves out there, but they aren’t as well-made as this one is, and many of them also take some kind of canned fuel, which is bulky, expensive and messy to carry with you.
 
Full-retail on the 180 Stove is $46.95, and it may seem a little bit spendy, but when you stop and think about the quality materials that are used in the stove, and that the thing actually works as advertised, and it can and will be a lifesaver, you are making an investment in your future survival. On top of that, you will be lightening your backpack and assuring yourself of a hot meal when time comes to eat. Yes, you can eat MREs cold – but who likes doing that? If you have a fishing pole and some hooks, you can catch a nice trout and cook it up, using the 180 Stove and nothing tastes better than a hot meal when you’re hungry and cold.
 
I’m gonna see about getting a couple more of the 180 Stoves for my wife and daughters, I know they’d like ’em in their backpacks, just like I do. And, its always nice when you can lighten a pack, and still have all the gear you need. Sure, a camp fire is nice, but it takes a lot of wood, and it honestly isn’t all that much “fun” cooking over a large fire…the 180 Stove will take care of your cooking needs in an emergency, like nothing else can. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Letter Re: Stockpiling U.S. Nickels Versus Clad Quarters

James Wesley:
I read with interest your article on saving nickels. My question to you is why are nickels better than quarters?  Is it not easier to store a larger sum of funds in the same physical space with quarters than nickels?  If they do devalue the [printed] US Dollar by a factor of 10, then a nickel will [effectively] be worth 50 cents but a quarter will be worth $2.50. 
 
Regards, – Richard F.

JWR Replies: As a hedge against a zero (or two) being dropped from the paper Dollar, nickels (the U.S. five cent piece) and clad quarters are indeed comparable.  But from the perspective of base metal content value, consider:

A debased clad quarter (91.67% copper and 8.33% nickel) is actually worth $0.0516021. That base metal is only 20.64% of the coin’s face value.

In contrast, a nickel (75% copper and 25% nickel) is actually worth $0.0536129. That base metal is 107.22% of the coin’s face value.

So, by their base metal content, each nickel is worth slightly more than a quarter!

(Reference: Coinflation.com. Access date: 22 September, 2012.)

In summary, the U.S. Nickel is the ONLY instantly-recognizable coin in common circulation that is worth more than its face value.  Granted, the pre-1981 U.S. pennies are presently worth 248% of their face value, but those require sorting–either time-consuming sorting by eye or electronically with a $500 Ryedale coin sorting machine.

Though I stocked up substantially in 2006 and 2007, I still ask for a $20 tray of nickels each time that I visit the bank. Someday my children will thank me for that.

Back in 1963, you could walk into a bank and walk out with all the 90% silver quarters you could carry. Each silver quarter is now worth $6.24. That is 2,496.42% of face value. (Again, according to Coinflation.com.) I see nickels as a similar opportunity for our generation. The composition of the U.S. nickel has been the same since 1946. But once it is inevitably debased (most likely to a stainless steel slug with a base metal value of less than 1/10th of a cent), our window of opportunity will close. Stock up!



Recipe of the Week:

Mrs. RLB’s Spicy Jalapeño Venison Breakfast Sausage

This recipe for venison sausage has some heat to it!  I tried other recipes which seemed too bland and so I doctored this recipe until it was just right.  Since it is deer season, I thought this would be the best time to submit it.  You can make less if you like by cutting the ingredients by the same proportions.  Have a glass of ice water ready to drink the first time you taste it, just in case you find it a little too hot for you.  You can always adjust the spices to your suit your taste.

24 lbs ground venison
3 lbs pork fat
3 packages   (0.75 oz)   fresh sage (2.25 ounces total) or from your garden
6 Tbsp ground red pepper
12 Tbsp ground black pepper
2 tsp mace
2 very large bulbs of garlic (not cloves), cleaned, cloves are crushed
5 whole jalapeño peppers (minus seeds)
12 Tbsp Kosher salt
1 ½ cups cold water (or more as needed for blender)  

Add water, spices, garlic, seasonings and jalapenos to blender, and blend on high until spices are very blended and smooth.  In the absence of a blender, chop ingredients very fine and add to water.  In a large bowl, blend the venison, fat and pour in the spice blend.  If you use your hands, you may want to wear gloves due to the heat of the jalapenos.  Bag and freeze in portions that are useful to you.  
 
To cook, make into patties and fry on stovetop as you usually would with other breakfast sausage.

Chef’s Notes:

Again, you can always adjust the spices to your suit your taste.

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

Patrice Lewis (of the excellent Rural Revolution blog) shares her recipe and experience in making a deep dish chicken pot pie.

Dutch oven cooking expert Karl Moore has posted some great recipes.

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Economics and Investing:

Jim W. suggested this: The Next Panic: Europe’s crisis will be followed by a more devastating one, likely beginning in Japan.

Andre sent us this: Concerted QE – The Beginning of Hyperinflation
 
G.G. suggested: Fed Wants Inflation Now, Will Clean Up ‘Mess’ Later: El-Erian

More Americans Added to Food Stamps Than Find Jobs

Readers recommended two interesting essays over at Zero Hedge: Bank Of America to Fire 16,000 by Year End and What Mitt Romney Also Said: A Glimpse Of The Endgame?

Items from The Economatrix:

Household Worth in US Fell in 2Q as Stocks Dropped

Dollar Index Headed For Rapid Collapse

Peter Schiff-Dollar Vulnerable to a Massive Collapse, Buy Gold and Silver



Odds ‘n Sods:

I heard from Sunflower Ammo (one of the generous sponsors of our writing contest) that they just added a product review section to their web site.  They will be giving away freebies for the best reviews every month. They have also added a British Berkefeld LP2 filter system to their product line, for $139.99.  This is a great entry-level water filter.

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There was a pleasant surprise in my latest batch of forwarded mail: a copy of the new Bulgarian edition of my first novel, “Patriots”. There are now nine foreign publishing contracts in place to produce the novel in eight languages including French, Spanish, German, Russian, Portuguese, Bulgarian, and Korean.

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James C. sent us this to file under Emerging Threats: Radio Zeta: How Mexico’s Drug Cartels Stay Networked

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H.L. sent: 21 Facts About America’s Decaying Infrastructure That Will Blow Your Mind

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Peter S. recommended a great half-hour NSSF video on cleaning and maintaining the AR-15 series rifles.

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F.J. like this piece at Instructables: Mint Tin Candle



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Government is instituted for the common good; for the protection, safety, prosperity, and happiness of the people; and not for profit, honor, or private interest of any one man, family, or class of men; therefore, the people alone have an incontestable, unalienable, and indefeasible right to institute government; and to reform, alter, or totally change the same, when their protection, safety, prosperity, and happiness require it." – John Adams, Thoughts on Government, 1776



Notes from JWR:

We’re down to just three days to release (and “Book Bomb Day”) for Founders: A Novel of the Coming Collapse. Thanks for your patience.

Today we present another entry for Round 42 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 43 begins on October 1st, so please start writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Tactical Map Usage and Scouting, by Robert B. in North Carolina

Know your environment – getting the maps ready now

In a world full of google, yahoo and portable navigators, the art of using maps kind of gets lost. In a SHTF situation, you will probably not have much of a technological tool kit for navigation, or planning. Knowing how to use maps from a tactical perspective then becomes critical skillet. Sand tables are not the most portable item to help identify and understand a terrain, but using plastic layers over a map can be very portable, and useful for viewing an environment. The layers I talk about below are a starting point, you can add whatever you want or remove those that are not important to you.

On a side note the Army has an excellent manual that contains instructions on mapping: Combined Arms Operations in Urban Terrain (ATTP 3-06.11/FM 3-06.11) don’t let the title fool you, “Urban” to the Army is a settlement 2,500 people or more.

  • Using maps and clear plastic layers
    • Map Basics
      • Start with a basic terrain map of area; if you are in a rural or homestead area include one of nearest town. 
      • I recommend hard copies for all, but you can start using downloads from google/yahoo maps, and using the terrain and other options. This map should have both land elevations and man made structures on it.
      • Also available are software tools such as Visio, OmniGraff, and some near free diagram generating software programs, if you choose to create your own maps from a computer first.
      • Don’t forget to think three dimensionally – subways, sewers, basements, high-rises etc.
      • When mapping out layers, it is key to have an index including category (layer name), location (grid, street, landmarks), common name, and supplemental information for that specific item documented and easily referenced.  Having a number next to the item on a map will also aid in the lookup.
      • Check colors for map layers against your chemical light sticks, or your red or blue flashlight filters – make sure you can read them at night [under a poncho].
      • Mark layered items with icons based on categories: triangle for first responder buildings, x’ed boxes for restaurants, etc.
      • Have a map protractor to help identify distance, and bearing 
    • Creating overlapping layers
    • Use clear plastic layers for each of the following to aid in area understanding. Using plastic layers allows for easy removal or adding, one onto of the other, to gain a better understanding of the environment, and to remove clutter from information that is not currently important. For neighborhood resources you might want to think about not using a corner to corner overlay, but for known locations this might not be a high risk.
      • Infrastructure layer – highway, streets, service roads, hiking paths, fire breaks, electric line easements, bridges, dams, main water pipes, electric power lines and sub stations, water towers and primary connection pipes, and local/state evacuation routes. 
      • Subterranean layer – If town, urban or congested: subterranean infrastructure such as water and drainage pipes, location of manhole covers, underground garages. If marking subterranean infrastructure and you do not know if two manhole covers are to the same pipes use a different line from known when mapping. 
      • Areas of Gravitation layer: these include any stationary location where you think people might congregate during a SHTF. Remember, in the world of google maps, many of these locations will have a street view. For high risk/high congregation areas you might want to include a side folder of street view images.
        • First Responder locations: local fire stations, police stations, hospitals and clinics, national guard posts
        • Food distribution centers:  supermarkets, restaurants and other stores
        • Fuel: public gas stations, public works fueling locations
        • Hardware and tools: Home Depot/Mom&Pop hardware stores, automotive shops, electrician shops, etc.
        • FEMA (possible and known): state fairgrounds,  sports centers, high schools, large fields, etc.
        • Population centers: apartment buildings, townhouses, high density neighborhoods, etc. 
      • Wild Game layer – location of game, type, time of day and time of year where spotted. Animals tend to move in cycles, so keeping note throughout the year is a great reference point. Don’t just go by location during hunting season for post SHTF.
      • Environmental layer –  including time of year changes for common drought and flood locations, seasonal water holes, streams, marshes, and ponds. Also mark down farms, ranches, common hunting areas, etc. Also any area with a clearing of more that 100m square (potential helicopter landing site). If possible, note changes in background colors, locations of good concealment and at what time of year.
      • Neighborhood resources –see “Neighbors skills and immediate neighborhood resources” below.
      • Technology layer – using both google/yahoo maps and a car navigation system place the starting point on the major highways around your town, and see what routes it will take you to your local hospital, supermarket, and police station. If traffic stopped, how would you expect to continue on foot? These are bound to be hot roads and short cuts.
      • Keep blank layers – also non-permanent markers for use with the blank layers. 
      • Remember, when using a hard copy of a map on a table, you can use other items for mobile reference points, and adjust as they move.
    • Using maps to generate “hot zones.”  
      • Depending on population you may choose to adjust the distances for red, orange and yellow zones, however I recommend using rifle ranges, likelihood of population congestion and probability of violence as the main lines of demarcation.  Remember, in a city and congested suburban, line of site dictates rifle range, not always ballistics.
        • Red Zone:  draw a circle around any object in the “areas of gravitation” layer. Depending on your environment, it should be around 700 meters to 1 mile. Do the same around highways, streets, and other areas of traffic out to 200 meters on both sides of the road. If roads have a line of site from them to any item in the areas of gravitation layer, mark those red too, out to 200meters on both sides of the shortcut. Remember, when people are walking, they will take shortcuts. 
        • Orange Zone: these are the areas that people start ‘grouping’ together on their way to or from an area of gravitation – easements where power lines are, should not be forgotten. Also any potential helicopter landing sites not covered in a area of gravitation layer. I map these out to 2 miles from any red zone. 
        • Yellow Zone: this is basically anything not covered in Red or Orange.
        • Personally, I color coordinate these areas based on Jeff Cooper color code, that way when planning movement, it is clear what alert level someone should be at.
    • Identify possible areas of interest and possible scouting routes
      • For areas where you might not have a choice, but to go to, it might be best to outline potential ingress/egress routes, ORP’s, location for security halts, all within the context of “hot zones”. At least in a pre-SHTF environment, you can print out pictures of possible routes ahead of time. Having a layer for each objective could be very useful. Most common areas to map out a scouting route are:
        • Hospitals/Clinics
        • Food distribution centers
        • hardware and tools
        • Fuel
        • High ground / observation points
        • Around your retreat

 

  • Neighbors skills and immediate neighborhood resources
  • Most of this is more applicable to suburban landscapes, however knowing ahead of time who has what experience will aid in any kind of SHTF organization. Each of these items and locations should be on a map layer. I really want to be clear on this though. The intent is to identify key people for skill set training and possible organization and consolidation of efforts.  
  • Identify neighbors skill sets
    • including location/address on map being marked.
      • Medical: nurse, doctor, dentist, veterinarian, pharmacist, health care workers 
      • Electrical 
      • Automotive
      • Engineer  
      • Green thumb; raise livestock; gardens – even just ornamental gardens.
      • Hunters/Fisherman  
      • Hikers, campers, those used to living without normal public services
      • Prior Service (ex and current military/law enforcement)
      • Armed to various degrees
      • Teachers 
      • Canning, and non-refrigerated food preservation skills
      • This list could just keep going on, but those are the main points
  • Identify neighborhood resources
    • Location of private/public wells, rivers and other water sources including pools
    • Location of common areas for cultivation
    • Natural food sources: fruit and nut trees, berries, etc.
    • Natural barriers for use in defense
    • Manmade barriers 

 

Collecting information post SHTF

Future “current” information is the one thing you can’t stock up on. Deciding on when and where to collect information from your surrounding area, and what risk it is worth, is bound to be a major area for debate. OPs only let you know when someone is about to or has discovered where your group is. The only way to really avoid the “detection” is to put small teams out at a greater distance.  This also allows for possible flanking maneuvers, or spoiler attacks, beyond the immediate defensive location. It also requires an exceptional level of stealth, and perseverance. Far from complete, here are a few tips on scouting/ reconnaissance: 

  • Post SHTF Map updating considerations
    • When updating maps post-SHTF, mark any changes with a date/timestamp – even if it is on a notepad only. Historical changes may present a pattern over time that will be useful. 
    • For defining routes, keeping historical records becomes even more important. Over time you might loose track of previous routes and start creating a pattern of action that becomes easily predictable by the op-for.
    • Identify the following while planning a route: security stops, objective rally point, should the objective rally point (ORP) be compromised or team dispersed a fallback rally point, return path different from initial ingress, and extraction points if applicable (with redundant positions). Also, identify bearings/distance between different points. 
    • Document using a range card from an identified point. Each team member should do this once observing the objective. This allows for comparisons between different scouting trips, and changes during sleep cycles.
    • When scouting an area and observing people use the S.A.L.U.T.E. format:
      • S – Size – how many people
      • A – Activities – what they are doing – what direction are they moving? is a guard moving between two points and if so how often? etc.
      • L – Location – grid location or other reference points you are using
      • U – UNIT – if applicable, unit, uniform or other group identification
      • T – Time and date
      • E – Equipment – weapons, personal gear, and vehicles
  • Post SHTF Scouting Rules 
    • Never use goggles/scopes/binoculars with the people being observed between you and the sun – (always try and have the sun either directly above or behind you). Glare off of the glass may give away your position. Keeping at an angle or using a KillFlash can be good, but I wouldn’t bet my life on it. Just be careful not so silhouette yourself.
    • Know your pace count: for slow movement, normal and fast walking
    • At night, try not to look directly at something being observed with the naked eye, there is a night blind spot that will interfere with looking at an object if you stare at it. Look at the objects sides and around it to see the object more clear.
    • Also at night, always give yourself at least 30min to get used to the lack of light before moving around.
    • If it looks good to you, it looks good to someone else too: a bush next to a thick tree is more likely to have someone behind it than a bush by its’ self. Note that professionals understand this – so that could be a cat and mouse game.
    • Never observe from the crest of a high point, this will create a silhouette 
    • After identifying an objective to scout try and see if from a defensive viewpoint – where would you be worried about someone approaching? Where would you place the highest number of people in a defensive perimeter? What area would you think only a nut would try and move through? Then as long as it isn’t a vast open field, be the nut.
    • Cary what you need, not necessarily what makes you comfortable – weight makes long walks harder, short runs much slower, and in time you will focus on your overloaded pack more than what is going on around you.
    • When scanning an area try and look deep into the shadows, scan very slow. Look for the slightest difference. Start with a rapid scan, for the obvious: left to right up to 100 meters deep then back to the left in a S formation. Then the same for the next 100 meters deep, and so on. Followed by a slow scan: same process but much more time is spent on each pass – looking for items out of place.
    • Always move from one position of cover and concealment  to another. Know your next position before you take your next step.
    • Always know where you are and how to get out. Egress should be planned with positions of defense along the way.
    • Always use camouflage from the immediate area. Don’t rely on just generic patterns such as BDUs or Multicams  
    • Someone must always be awake and alert (three person minimal is best)
    • There is no downtime on a patrol
    • Birds will give you away: avoid nesting and perching birds
    • Know your rifle inside and out: know how to range with your glass and front site, know your drops for your ammo, have basic gunsmith skills at least for the rifles you own.
    • Know the military movement techniques and use them (bounding and traveling overwatch, ranger file, rolling egress, etc)
    • Develop good hand signal communication with your team
    • Crossing lines – i.e. leaving and returning to your location where friendlies are on watch, is one of the most dangerous tasks for a patrol, scout or otherwise. Practice this, and have a proper challenge and response with identified return routes known to both sides of the line (that change per patrol).  
    • There are two really big give-aways when scouting: sound and movement. Consider a deer. God didn’t make them in a camouflage pattern yet can still be unnoticed with it’s counter-shaded brown even against a green background. Chances are, you noticed it because a tail flicked or light reflected from it’s eyes. Our eyes are designed to be attracted to movement more than from any other giveaway that is natural in color. Slow, graceful movement, and lack of sound are the two most critical methods of not being detected; it’s even more important than camouflage and counter shading. 
    • No glass on a rifle used for scouting – flaps make target acquisition too slow, and glass reflects light. Use iron sights or [deeply hooded] binoculars. [JWR Adds: A Killflash sleeve requires no flap.]
    • Remember the time-honored Rules of Roger’s Rangers.