Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“By many indicators, Greece is devolving into something unprecedented in modern Western experience. A quarter of all Greek companies have gone out of business since 2009, and half of all small businesses in the country say they are unable to meet payroll. The suicide rate increased by 40 percent in the first half of 2011. A barter economy has sprung up, as people try to work around a broken financial system. Nearly half the population under 25 is unemployed. Last September, organizers of a government-sponsored seminar on emigrating to Australia, an event that drew 42 people a year earlier, were overwhelmed when 12,000 people signed up. Greek bankers told me that people had taken about one-third of their money out of their accounts; many, it seems, were keeping what savings they had under their beds or buried in their backyards. One banker, part of whose job these days is persuading people to keep their money in the bank, said to me, ‘Who would trust a Greek bank?'” – Russell Shorto, from his February 19, 2012 New York Times article titled The Way Greeks Live Now.



Note From JWR:

Today we present a short guest article and another two entries for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 39 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



An Overview of NFA Gun Trusts, by Patrick Stegall

The last few years have seen the development of an interesting legal mechanism called the gun trust. Gun trusts use estate planning law to deal with, and in some cases legally circumvent, arcane and restrictive federal laws that regulate the use and possession of certain types of firearms. These federal statutes make up the National Firearms Act (NFA), a series of laws that require registration of guns such as machine guns, short barreled rifles and shotguns, and sound suppressors (aka silencers). They are often referred to as Title 2 weapons because they are regulated under Title 2 of the 1968 Gun Control Act. Many people mistakenly call them Class 3 weapons, but Class 3 refers to the dealers of these weapons, not the weapons themselves.

History of the National Firearms Act

The NFA was passed in 1934 in response to the gang violence of that time. It imposed a tax on certain firearms thought to contribute to the growing “gangster” crime problem, including machine guns, short barreled rifles and shotguns, and silencers. In an effort to discourage possession of these types of weapons, individuals were required to register them with the federal government and pay a tax stamp fee of $200. The NFA was amended in 1968 and again in 1986, but its basic provisions remain unchanged: national registration of certain weapons and payment of a $200 tax per weapon, or $5 for devices classified as Any Other Weapon. (“AOWs”).

The NFA has strict requirements and carries stiff penalties for violations. Essentially, only a registered owner of an NFA weapon may be in possession of that weapon. Illegal possession of an NFA firearm carries a prison sentence of up to 10 years and/or a fine of up to $250,000. Be forewarned, “possession” can be a relative and arbitrary term in the eyes of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives (ATF).

ATF Requirements

Title 2 weapons must be registered with the ATF through an extensive and lengthy application process. Whether you are purchasing a weapon from a Class 3 dealer or building your own (many people will make their own short barreled rifle out of an existing non-NFA weapon such as an AR-15-style rifle), you must first go through ATF to have it transferred to you. ATF requires that you fill out the appropriate form, affix a two-by-two inch photograph of yourself along with fingerprints, and have the application signed by your local chief law enforcement officer (CLEO) [this is the police chief inside of city limits or the county sheriff if you live outside of city limits.] The $200 must be included, and that is for each weapon. Once the application is approved you will receive notice and the weapon may then be transferred to you. The approval time may take anywhere from three to six months.

The Gun Trust

NFA gun trusts have become popular in recent years as an alternative to individual registration. The central idea behind a gun trust is that the trust itself is the registered owner for NFA purposes, and anyone listed in it as trustee may legally possess the NFA weapons as trust property. There are basically three types of individuals in a gun trust: grantor/settlor, trustee, and beneficiary.

The grantor, or settlor, is the person who sets up the trust. This is usually the individual who wants to register and own Title 2 weapons but also wants other people to be able to use and possess those weapons. The grantor will submit the application to ATF but instead of registering the weapon in their name, he or she will list the trust as the owner. Trustees are individuals who, along with the grantor, will hold the trust property for the beneficiary. Trustees may legally possess NFA weapons in the trust even though they are not listed on the application. Trustees must be at least 18 years old (federal law prohibits anyone under 18 from possessing NFA weapons, and anyone under 21 from purchasing NFA weapons from a Class 3 dealer) and not be otherwise prohibited from possessing firearms. Finally, the beneficiary is the individual who receives the trust property upon the death of the grantor. The grantor can list as many beneficiaries as he or she likes, and there is no age requirement under federal law to be a beneficiary. Thus minor children can be named beneficiaries, and should the grantor die before the beneficiary is of age to take possession a trustee can be designated to hold onto the trust property.

Advantages of a Gun Trust

Gun trusts can be set up to be very flexible. Most are established as a revocable trust, which means it can be changed by the grantor during his or her life. When the grantor dies the trust becomes irrevocable, and changes can no longer be made. With a revocable trust, the grantor may add or subtract individuals or weapons to and from the trust as necessary.

Another advantage is that a trust allows the grantor to legally bypass many ATF application requirements. Fingerprints, photographs, and CLEO signature are not required. Not only can this speed up the process, but it’s nice to be able to tell the government, “No, I don’t have to give you that information.”

Sometimes people will ask about setting up a corporation as the registered owner, but I think trusts are better. Trusts are generally private and do not require public filing (this may not be the case in every state so you should check with a local attorney on this). Corporations are public, do require filing, and also require annual maintenance fees and taxes. For these reasons, trusts are a better way to go.

Should I go the gun trust route?

It depends on your situation, but generally I recommend yes. The trust will be in effect for your life and longer, and with the strict laws that govern NFA weapons it is reassuring to know that you can plan for the distribution of the trust property. For instance, gun trusts are usually good for families. A husband can name his wife, and perhaps other close relatives, as trustees, and his children as beneficiaries. It really just depends on your situation and your long-term goals.

It also depends on where you live, and here I must include the obligatory disclaimer: NFA weapons are not legal in every state. If you are considering getting into the world of Title 2 guns, then please check your state laws. All the information I have given you in this article is based on federal law, but state law applies too and that may differ. I suggest contacting a gun trust attorney in your state to discuss your options.

Patrick Stegall is a Memphis, Tennessee lawyer. Part of his practice is concentrated on drafting NFA gun trusts for individuals and families in Tennessee. For more information please visit him online at Tennessee Gun Trust Lawyer, or e-mail him at pstegall@stegall-law.com.



Planning for Shingles Symptoms in TEOTWAWKI, by M. Matriarch

The chicken pox vaccine was not licensed for use in the US until 1995, which means a lot of adults today may have had chicken pox. That also means that a lot of us are susceptible to developing shingles, a painful potential recurrence of the same virus that infected us with chicken pox. I remember when my great grandmother had shingles in the early 1960s. She experienced great pain and disability for at least a couple of months, and was left much less ‘able’ than before the disease.  Medicine has come a long way since then.

This contribution is to share my experience with shingles and how I now am prepared for a recurrence in TEOTWAWKI. I am not a physician but a survivor of a recent case of shingles, sharing what worked for me and what did not.  If you had the chicken pox vaccine and never actually got the pox, then you don’t need to read this unless you have loved ones who were not so fortunate.  If, as I have experienced, your healthcare won’t cover the Shingles Zoster  vaccine until you are 60 and you don’t plan to pay the $300 for the vaccine with a prescription, here’s my plan to treat a recurrence if I’m on my own in stressful times.

Herpes Zoster is the virus that brings chicken pox. Once you have the virus in your body, it’s your for life. Like many members of the Herpes family, it survives in nerve tissue and lies dormant until conditions are right.   Again, as with most recurring herpes virus, H. Zoster stays in check unless your immune system is stressed.  In adults, H. Zoster can recur as ‘shingles,’ a much more painful version of the active or acute viral infection.   In my recent case, it was a stressful period at work, in winter and after I had slacked off on my regular exercise program. TEOTWAWKI will undoubtedly be more stressful than most work environments, so I choose to plan for the potential until I reach 60 and can get the vaccine.  I probably will keep the preps after that as well.

I was 55 and tired. Work had been a bear, late nights and multiple deadlines.  I had recently been moved to a building that made my allergies kick up, so that wasn’t helping.  I was also preparing for a business trip, getting all the arrangements in order.  On Tuesday, I just didn’t feel right. By Thursday I was at my doctor’s office because I was having disturbing abdominal pain – in the area near my appendix.  Everything she suspected was ruled out.  I wasn’t crazy about leaving town on Sunday, but at least I didn’t have a hot appendix.  I did notice a strange almost painful sensation on my skin on the same side of my hip and abdomen as the interior abdominal pain, but it seemed insignificant compared to the internal pain. I probably didn’t mention it to the ‘doctor for fear she’d think I was a total hypochondriac.  What I didn’t know then was this phase is called the ‘prodrome’ and is when the virus is starting its recurrence in your body.  It occurs for usually for 5 to 7 days before the first bumps. The skin tenderness is one of the classic prodrome symptom list that includes flu-like symptoms and some localized internal pain.

Saturday morning I was dressing and found the first cluster of bumps, about an inch in diameter, on my lower back.  That was a big clue, but I still didn’t believe it.  I was 55 for heaven’s sake and Shingles is an old person’s disease – Gramma was almost 90 when she had it!  After a quick Google search for shingles, I raced to urgent care, where I had to educate the doctor.  Though skeptical, he gave me a prescription for acyclovir which I started taking immediately.  I also bought some spray-on Solarcaine, which helped with the surface pain.  The acyclovir is an anti-viral that helped slow the outbreak, but wasn’t the best choice of drugs. I let my boss know that I wouldn’t be traveling on Sunday.
Sunday was a blur of Solarcaine, pills every 4 hours,  and trying to find some type of clothing that minimized the discomfort.  Finding a comfortable position was also a challenge. Bed rest is a tall order when just the weight of the sheet hurts. Imagine if you were bugging out on foot, with a plan to wear most of you spare clothing and trying to carry a pack when a large swath of your skin feels like it’s on fire and is covered in blisters. If that’s your plan, it might help to be prepared for this little gem!

Monday, I saw my doctor.   The rash was halfway around my abdomen, with some isolated spots starting below my naval.  The breakout was slowed but not stopped because the acyclovir just wasn’t strong enough. She changed the anti-viral meds to Valacyclovir (Valtrex), a much better drug that could be taken less frequently.  She also prescribed Percocet for pain, a week at home (some people in my office had never had chicken pox) and a return visit in a week. The Solarcaine and Percocet allowed me to rest much more comfortably.  I suspect a non-narcotic pain killer would also have made a big difference in the pain, but my doctor decided not to experiment and went for the sure thing.
 
The new anti-viral allowed an almost complete bypass of the nastiest phase of the disease: blisters progressing to open sores and then scabs – shortening the course of the illness by at least two and possibly four weeks.  Also, it reduced the potential for infecting others and for the secondary infections possible with any open sores.  Instead, the rash transitioned to thin, hard skin spots until the crusts washed off in the shower after a couple of weeks.  Sorry if this sounds disgusting, but it is the reality of the disease when modern medicine is not available.

On the return visit, my doctor changed the medications. Gabapentin replaced Percocet, with a primary purpose to help prevent post-herpetic neuralgia – a painful complication that can leave one suffering from pain long after the lesions have healed.  She also prescribed Lidoderm patches to place over areas with healed lesions to reduce the pain. Even with these meds, I still could not tolerate conventional clothing, so I spent another two weeks at home, but was able to telecommute part time.  One discovery I made was that the Lidoderm patches could be cut in half and used essentially as a nerve block by placing just above the top of the band of lesions and along my spine. (Good lesson — I now keep Lidoderm patches in my G.O.O.D. kit and my emergency med bag for non-narcotic emergency pain relief.)  Before that I was uncomfortable plastered with up to 3 patches a day.

So what are my other TEOTWAWKI lessons?  Beyond getting and staying in good shape, and keeping Lidoderm patches handy, I’ll get the Zoster vaccine as soon as I can.  Chaos and stressful surroundings will not be conducive to best self-care.  Many of us will be candidates for shingles with the disabling pain and secondary infection potential if we don’t have the specific meds to manage the disease.

Second is that with or without the vaccine, I’ll keep a shingles kit in my med supplies. I don’t know how long the Zoster vaccine works, or if it can be overcome by the virus in conditions that will be far from the current ‘normal’ life of clean water, climate control and reasonable rest and nutrition.  Otherwise, coping with shingles may not be realistic in a bad or worst-case scenario.  Worst case, my spouse may need it, or someone will need the ‘kit’ and will be willing to trade goods, services or goodwill for it.

My current shingles kit is small but powerful. It  includes the meds above in sufficient quantities to reproduce my experience – 7 days of high doses of Valacyclovir in one pill bottle and in another pill bottle , 7 x 5mg Percocet (half-tablet twice a day for the first week after bumps start) and 30 x 100 mg Gabapentin (1 to 2 per day as long as they last).  These are taped together at the bottoms so they form along tube with the open ends out for easy access, and stored with a bottle of Solarcaine gel and 5 Lidoderm patches (1/3 patch per day for 12 hours) in a plastic zipper bag in the med kit.  Wish I could travel back in time and give Gramma just those few things to have helped her pain!

As I said, I’m not a physician, so what I’ve just related was hard-won personal wisdom.  There are probably better Shingles kits that can be assembled.



Powering Vehicles and Machinery Without Gasoline, by Caspar d’Gonzo

World War II has always fascinated me. I spend a great deal of time reading and researching a wide array of books, articles and Internet sites about this period. To the conquered peoples of Europe and Asia, it must certainly must have seemed like the end of the world as they knew it.

One of the most fascinating aspects of my studies is discovering how individuals and groups in Axis-held countries survived behind enemy lines.  Valuable lessons can be gleaned by looking at the tactics and techniques of underground and partisan groups in France, the Philippines, Yugoslavia, China, Norway, Belgium and many other invaded lands.

Recently, I read a book written by Lt. Colonel Will Irwin, US Army, retired. His book The Jedburghs: The Secret History of the Allied Special Forces, France 1944.  Irwin’s research is excellent; it is a riveting chronicle of secret teams that were dropped deep into Nazi occupied France. Working with local partisans known as “maquis”, the teams conducted a roaming guerrilla war against German forces.

The book revealed that French resistance forces had little or no access to gasoline during this period. The Germans needed every gallon for their own military needs, so many French improvised a technology that — in today’s übermodern high-tech society — has long overlooked.  This technology, gasogene-powered internal combustion engines, became a popular method of fueling cars, trucks, and even buses during late World War II.

Simply defined, standard gasoline-fueled vehicle engines were converted with a wood- or charcoal-burning unit.  The unit did not generate steam for power, but instead it created a combustible gas to run the engine.  Such knowledge had been around since the late 1800s.

The gasogene device is known as a wood gas generator or gasifier by engineers.  This gasification process has all but disappeared in vehicle propulsion in the 21st Century. Gasogene devices create a mixture of nitrogen, hydrogen, methane, carbon monoxide and other, combustible gases. When these are cooled and filtered they can be introduced into an internal combustion engine as an efficient fuel.

In a TEOTWAWKI environment, one quickly realizes that wood, charcoal and other natural items (even coconut husks) would be plentiful and easily acquired.  Having a gasogene powered car, tractor or generator would be a huge advantage in surviving a post-apocalyptic world.

In a FEMA document on powering vehicles through gasification it was noted that “a catastrophic event could disrupt the supply of petroleum in this country so severely that this wood gas generation might be critical in meeting the energy needs of some essential economic activities, such as the production and distribution of food. In occupied Denmark during World War II, 95% of all mobile farm machinery, tractors, trucks, stationary engines, and fishing and ferry boats were powered by wood gas generator units. Even in neutral Sweden, 40% of all motor traffic operated on gas derived from wood or charcoal. All over Europe, Asia, and Australia, millions of gas generators were in operation between 1940 and 1946.”

HOW A GASOGENE UNIT WORKS

Internal combustion engines use gasoline. What many do not realize is that the liquid that we know as gasoline is turned into a vapor and burned as a gas. The technology under the hood converts the liquid form into the gas form.  The vapor is injected into the engine and is explosively burned (combustion).  The same is true for wood gas.  Burning wood in a controlled gasifier creates a combustible vapor that will fire in the engine.

The gasogene creates a chemical process where the superheated vapors evolve into gases that the engine then burns. This is also known as a stratified, downdraft gasifier as the vapors go through four zones within the device and into the engine.

The first zone is at the highest point of the machine.  Because the vapors are drawn down and into the second zone (the downdraft), the first zone is a 20 to 30 gallon metal container positioned atop the second zone, a smaller 10 to 15 gallon container.

The first container might be a small metal trash can or other type of metal box than can hold wood fuel.  This upper container draws in air to aid in the combustion of the wood.  A fire box connects the upper container with the lower metal container.  The fire box is surrounded by open air in the lower container and a metal grate or screen is at the bottom of the fire box.  Burnt wood char and ash fall from this grate into the bottom of the second container.  This container has to be cleaned of all spent ash to keep the process efficient.  This first container stacked above the second container (zones one and two) are the gasification segment.

From the second container a pipe runs to a third container, known as the filter unit. This enclosed container is filled with clean wood chips that act as filter medium to draw off particulates that are moving with the hot vapors in the smoke.  The wood chips draw off these contaminates and a clean stream of hot vapors moves through to the final process.  A blower is located above the third container to maintain air flow.

From the filter unit a longer pipe takes the vapors downstream to the engine manifold.  An air intake valve pulls additional cooler outdoor air to “sweeten” the combustible gases just before entering the engine.  A modifier connection attaches the gasifier pipe to the engine.  A throttle valve is also mounted just before the pipe enters the engine so the flow of fuel can be controlled and help regulate vehicle speed.

Described by a layman, imagine a small metal garbage can mounted above a metal canister about the size of a five-gallon paint bucket. A short pipe connects to a third canister (also the size of a five-gallon bucket. A longer pipe, with throttle and air valve, connects to the engine manifold.

Hundreds of thousands of gasogene engines built during World War II demonstrated that innovation in use of cans, buckets and piping had little or no effect on performance. Clever mechanics used all types of scavenged and jury-rigged components.

Three things are critical to overall success and performance of the gasogene:

A. The most critical element is that the fire tube’s (running into the manifold) inside diameter and length must be carefully matched to the rated horsepower of the engine.

B. The gas generator units and all piping must be totally airtight at all times.

C. Friction must be eliminated in all air and gas passages. This is done by avoiding
sharp bends in the pipe and by employing pipe sizes which are not too small.

SKILLS NEEDED TO CONSTRUCT THE GASOGENE MACHINE

One primary skill will be creating metal connections.  Cutting metal using snips is important.  Bending and brazing pipe is about the most difficult of the work.  It is much a combination of plumbing skills and metalworking — but it is well within the skill set of most people who are moderately familiar with tools.

Having someone with plumbing skills assist makes construction of the device much easier, but not essential.  Many in World War II constructed these fuel generators with basic hand tools, components found in junk yards and assembled in extreme conditions.

OPERATIONAL AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS

The Gasogene unit burns wood and this means that frequent cleaning of the wood container and fire box.  Ash and char will fill the lower container under the fire box very quickly.  Starting the wood fuel will take some practice.  Depending upon the engine itself, most units will be able to power an average sized automobile about 15 to 20 miles at regular road speeds.  Shutting down the unit requires a cooling down period.

There are safety considerations that require attention.  The gases produced from the unit are toxic and attention must be paid to ventilation.  Enclosed cars, garages and such must be adequately vented to prevent dangerous build up of toxic gases.  However, the same could be said for traditional gas fueled engines.

Having a container filled with burning wood on a moving vehicle is always a major consideration.  Under normal operating conditions, this is not much of an issue.  But, in the event of an accident it is very important to remember that fire risks are increased.

TAKING THE NEXT STEP

If gasogene is of interest to your future plans for self-sufficiency, it is important to be proactive now.  The good news is there are plenty of resources to give you the exact plans and specifications needed to create an efficient operating gasogene engine.  Kits are available to accelerate the build, but are absolutely unnecessary.

RESOURCE LIST

CONSTRUCTION OF A SIMPLIFIED WOOD GAS GENERATOR
for Fueling Internal Combustion Engines in a Petroleum Emergency
FEMA Document

The absolute best reference was published by FEMA.  It not only covers all of the conceptual aspects of a gasogene-powered engine as well as a complete set of technical plans with parts list.  It is a single-source document that is free and available online as a PDF document.  This should be a part of any document package being assembled for future times.

WOOD GAS AS ENGINE FUEL
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations
FAO Forestry Paper 72

This UN document contains 139 pages of technical charts and graphs, scientific analysis and economic data on the potential and reality of wood gas fuels.  It is free as an online PDF.  Interesting for those seeking greater rationale on why wood gas can be an efficient alternative to petroleum in an emergency.

Coast to Coast on Homemade Fuel,’ Mother Earth News (#73) pp, 178-179. Jan/Feb 1982.
Wood Gas Update,’ Mother Earth News (#71) pp. 164-165. Sep/Oct 1981.
Mother’s Woodburning Truck,’ Mother Earth News (#69) pp. 126-129. May/Jun 1981

Some Useful Web Sites

Tacticalwoodgas.com

Gasifyer.com

Mother Earth News Wood Gas Generator Plans ($15.00)



Letter Re: Some Transportation Alternatives

Hi Mr. R.:
I worked in a bike shop for five years up until two years ago and my better half continues to work in a bike shop to this day.

I have to say having a road (or “racing”) bike for when the SHTF is a really bad idea. Road bikes are kind of like the sports cars of the bicycling world. They are not meant to beat upon, you run over or hit the wrong thing on the road or whatever–even gravel–and you could be walking. They eat tires and tubes. I have changed hundreds, maybe a thousand or two road bike tubes, usually  because of a small piece of steel belt from a car tire, or thorns, were embedded in the tire. Kevlar liners help a little. Also, most road bike tires run between 80 to 130 PSI. Pumping them to that pressure can be a chore for the weak or small statured person [, especially when using a small clip-on touring pump].

The most replaced parts on a bike are going to be the tubes, then the tires. From there parts breakage begins to vary widely, I would say the best bike for when the SHTF would have to be a hard tail mountain bike. Skip the road bikes and comfort bikes. In essence: You can ride a Mountain bike anywhere a road bike or comfort bike can go, but not vise versa. Also, as much as I love downhill and free ride bicycles , stay away from these beasts for SHTF, since you most likely will not break one, and if you do you will be broken too (trust me). They are on the opposite end of the spectrum from a road bike. Full suspension is awesome,I love mine, but if I were in a grid down mess, and toasted a pivot bearing, I would then be SOL. There can be lots of pivots and bearings, air shocks, although much much better now than the past can be a a problem.

Bike shop brands are going to be the best bet, but not essential. Up until left the industry a couple of years ago, the majority of big name frames were made by Giant, and then Fuji. So as far as weld quality, they are going to be close. Also, as awesome as Carbon frames and parts are, stay away from them, that carbon framed bike is super strong with riding forces, but lay that bad boy down and pinch the top tube or down tube and you bay get a really big surprise that could cost you a grand or two, and in the SHTF, it will be a total loss (unless you have vacuum  bags and a high heat high pressure autoclave.) Also carbon fiber frames can fail in quite a dramatic fashion, leaving little shards of carbon in you to pick out.

You really do get what you pay for up to a point as far as strength and quality. There is a point you start paying for weight and technology, and that means next to nothing in a grid down situation. I can expand on this in great detail if you would like, this is just the tip of the iceberg, i really do think that in a SHTF situation, bicycles will be essential. – J., Esse Quam Videri



Economics and Investing:

Adam B. sent: An agency-by-agency guide to Obama’s budget. JWR’s Comment: That doesn’t look like much “deficit slashing”, to me!

By way of Ol’ Remus at The Woodpile Report comes a link to some food for thought by Charles Hugh Smith: Why Is Gasoline Consumption Tanking?

Why I’m Taking Gold Double-Eagles On My Next Trip To Utah

Over at The Daily Bell: Now EU Kicking Spain Out of EU?

Items from The Economatrix:

There’s Talk of an Exit – But Default Would Have Catastrophic Consequences

Japanese Economy Shrank in Fourth Quarter

The Economy Relies on the Suspension of Disbelief

Greece and the Return of the Economic Death Spiral



Odds ‘n Sods:

AmEx (American Expat) sent this: Report: Russia Nuclear Disaster Narrowly Averted In Submarine Fire

   o o o

Over at Alt-Market: Going Off Grid – Montana Style!

   o o o

South Carolina bill would make home invasion a specific crime. (Thanks to Sue C. for the link.)

   o o o

Alan H. pointed me to a portable, easy to build 8’x12′ greenhouse for under $150. JWR’s Comment: Ah yes, hog panels, 101 uses…

   o o o

My wife Avalanche Lily alerted me to to an object lesson that went viral: The Dad Who Shot Up His Daughter’s Laptop Computer.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“A wild boar stood under a tree, and rubbed his tusks against the trunk. A fox passing by asked him why he thus sharpened his teeth when there was no danger threatening from either huntsman or hound. He replied, ‘I do it advisedly; for it would never do to have to sharpen my weapons just at the time I ought to be using them.’ To be well prepared for war is the best guarantee of peace.”  – The Fables of Aesop



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 39 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 39 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Making Your Own Gear, by Caleb E.

Our society today–the society that I grew up in–no longer has a need and in many cases no longer has the desire to be self-sufficient. As the recent turmoil expanding across these United States and across the globe is proving every day, most people would rather have some central authority provide everything for them. There are a few who adhere closely to and act upon the belief that their well-being is only granted through their own hard work, knowledge and preparation, and they are known adequately as “Preppers”. The Prepper mindset revolves around the idea of self-reliance or self-sufficiency, recognizing that one day there will not be a relief force coming to help in a disaster and that one day there will not be any law and order.

I have never needed to be self-reliant or self-sufficient; everything I have ever needed since I was born was no farther away than the nearest superstore or a few clicks of the mouse. However, I was raised in a family who recognized and taught the importance of Do-It-Yourself maintenance, a father who built most of our family furniture when I was growing up, and a grandfather who has built nine houses from the ground up. I may not have ever needed to be self-reliant but the attitude and mindset has been developed in me through my family, my experiences in martial arts and Boy Scouts, both of which encourage an attitude of preparation regardless of situation. So while I watch so many Americans demanding for the “Government” to act and provide for them, I have taken the opposite approach by being as self-sufficient and self-reliant as possible, going so far as to begin making some of my own equipment.

This essay is about the idea of making one’s own equipment as part of the self-sufficient or self-reliant lifestyle and will cover a short history of self-reliance to better understand the importance of the mentality and the need to learn to make as many things yourself as possible. It will also cover the benefits that an individual or family or group can obtain from making their own equipment and tools. Last I will include a list of items that I have experimented in making, the methods of making them, and some additional information to read if making your own equipment is one prep idea that appeals to you.

It wasn’t all that long ago that humankind had a need to be self-sufficient. I have spoken with my grandfather and grandmother extensively, both of whom grew up in deep eastern Texas in the Big Thicket area. My grandmother’s family was relatively large, because they owned and worked a farm for their livelihood, both to make money and to put food on their table. My grandfather and his family also provided most of their own food through the raising of livestock and tending a garden for their fresh vegetables. My grandfather has always kept a garden and provided our family Sunday dinners with fresh tomatoes, green beans, okra, or collard greens. My grandfather remembers people from his early years, that bought nothing more than sugar, coffee, and flour, and were able to survive comfortably by raising and growing everything else that they ate. They wore second-hand clothes most of the time, repaired their clothing repeatedly, and when it couldn’t be worn any longer, the clothing became rags, or parts of quilts and blankets. Everything was recycled or reused. People like my grandfather and grandmother remember what is to be self-sufficient not by choice, but by necessity.

Going even farther back into the 19th Century, and we will find a similar picture but on a much larger scale, with self-sufficiency reigning supreme for those that emigrated west. The frontiersmen and women were extremely self-reliant people, and had to be if they were to survive. Those who chosen to move to the frontier came from various backgrounds and ethnicities, but the common trait they all shared was the will to survive and build a better life. This same trait of self-reliance is what spurred a great number of people to leave the cities in the East for the vast amounts of land in the West. Along the way they faced a number of difficulties which they would have to face on their own, they knew there would not always be food, water, a doctor, a police force or a military to protect them. They knew that they would have to build their own shelters, maintain those shelters, and provide a living for themselves, and that their lives would be led without the comforts of a city to rely on. They had to take care of their own sicknesses and illnesses, their own births, dentistry, even when living close enough to a town to conduct business not every town had such necessities as a doctor or an apothecary.

Even during before this country became its own nation, the frontiersmen that settled the Eastern shores and the area of the Appalachian Mountains were self-reliant people. They knew that they would not have a great number of people to rely on, they did not know at first how the native people that they encountered would receive them, they had no way of knowing when shipments of tools, supplies, food, and other goods would arrive from England, France or Spain. Such an existence demanded that people become more self-reliant and self-sufficient if they were going to survive. They relied on a small number of tools and equipment, they manufactured a great deal of their own equipment, and every person had multiple skill sets that were necessary for their survival. They repaired all of their clothing, bed linens, and blankets. They often made their own materials such as wool and thread, derived from their livestock and crops. These were people whose greatest tool was knowledge and the will to survive in a harsh country. I suppose the quote that best serves to describe these people comes from the movie depiction of “The Last of the Mohicans” where Cora says, “They do not live their lives by your leave! They hack it out of the wilderness with their own two hands, burying their children along the way.” These were hard people living in a hard place, and by necessity they learned to rely only on themselves.

Of course in reviewing all of this it is important to remember that the community often played a role in the survival of individuals, and may play an important role in survival in a post-Schumer situation. In the past community members never lived very close to one another, they liked to have a little elbow and leg room, some distance from other people. My grandfather and grandmother had many neighbors growing up, but more often than not there were miles of road between them. Similarly, earlier periods saw close communities where everyone knew everyone else, and one could usually count on help from the community in certain times. I recall a story my grandfather shared with me recently about how several times a year all the men in his community would get together with their dogs and chase down some of the feral and wild pigs. They would tag the piglets ears for later reference, and then they would pull out any of the large sows that they had tagged before. This endeavor really required a community effort as wild pigs and hogs can be very dangerous, and because the entire community would usually benefit, with each person getting a share of the project to take home.

Today our lifestyles do not demand such behavior as self-reliance or preparation, but there may come a day in the future when those who remember the frontier life and choose to act, and prepare themselves and their families will be ready for a life when there is no doctor, blacksmith, dentist, or grocery store. Part of preparing for those lifestyles is to begin learning the skills that will be necessary, learning to work and care for a garden, learning to preserve meats, fruits and vegetables by canning, dehydrating and preserving. All of these are necessary skills, as is learning to work with wood, electrical, plumping, because there may come a time when you have to take on all of those positions. Should the Schumer hit the fan it will be important to be a jack of all trades rather than a specialist. That also means building your own equipment from the ground up, doing so will provide you with a number of benefits that store bought equipment does not provide.

Most importantly the process of building your own equipment allows you to further embrace the Preparedness mindset. While most of the time we embrace it and eventually begin to feel burnt out because we often never see our preparations paying off, by building your own equipment, each time you do it, you will have something physical to look at and see that you have accomplished something toward your preparation goals. Additionally, making your own equipment will begin teaching you crucial skills that may be needed in the future, skills that could allow you a means of making an income through barter or trading your homemade goods, or simply providing new equipment for additional or unexpected members of the family or group such as children. Finally by working on building your own equipment you will find that your equipment is of better quality, and to the exact custom specifications that you want in a way that store bought materials and equipment never could be.

I will begin with a perfect example, a simply Ranger Stove, while not exactly a Ranger Stove it serves the same purpose, is relatively inexpensive to make, is extremely light-weight,  and will boil water rapidly, using an entirely renewable energy source found nearly anywhere.  In order to make your Ranger Stove, you will need an empty vegetable can, I have found that the three pound pinto bean cans work really well, as does the pumpkin cans (and with Thanksgiving and Christmas upon us, there should be plenty of these cans lying around for your use). You will also need a wire coat hanger, a metal file, a church key, a drill with a _ size bit, a pair of tin snips, broad nose pliers (I find Lineman’s pliers work best–often referred to as Kleins), a soda can, and some JB Weld. You can make this stove to use either a solid tablet style fuel, a liquid fuel (like alcohol), or a free solid fuel like small twigs.

Begin your Ranger Stove by cutting five to six triangular air vents around the base of your chosen can using your beer opener. For the solid fuel ranger stove there is no need to JB Weld the soda can to the bottom of the bean can. If you prefer to have a liquid fuel stove, you will need to cut the soda can in half and file down the top edge. Then JB Weld the soda can to the bottom of the stove, this soda can will contain the alcohol. Once you have installed the soda can, or if you skipped that step, drill four holes about one-half to two-thirds of the way up the side of the stove can. Then using your tin snips cut two lengths from the wire coat hanger and thread them through the holes. This will be used to rest your pot or cup on while it comes to a boil. Using your pliers bend the ends of the wire coat hanger down to stabilize them. Finally, cut a small hole approximately one and one-half to two inches in diameter. This hole will be used to add fuel to your fire to keep it running as long as needed, and is only needed for the solid fuel stove. The final step is to test the product and ensure that it performs as specified. After testing, alterations can be made such as installing a door flap to cover the feeder hole (use the bottom or top of another can, file the edges smooth, curve to match the side of the stove can, and install using a basic hinge and latch).

This particular project is very easy to get started with because it does not require specialized or expensive tools or materials to make. Simply save your vegetable cans and soda cans and wire coat hangers from the dry cleaners and the tools you can either purchase (recommended as they will come in handy on other projects) or borrow them from a neighbor or family member. Furthermore this project lends itself easily to alteration and customization allowing the builder to use a number of different sized cans and configurations of air vents, grates, feeder holes, etc.

The next project that is relatively inexpensive and fairly easy to make are waterproof containers using Schedule 40 PVC piping. The maker will only need sections of PVC pipe to the desired length, push on caps for one end, and screw on caps for the other end, PVC glue, a hack saw or a PVC pipe cutter, sand paper, and a can of flat spray paint in the desired color. The PVC pipe cutter will cut nice even straight cuts, but a hack saw will suffice. Simply purchase the desired diameter PVC pipe, three-quarter inch pipe makes greater containers for matches, cotton swabs to soak in alcohol for starting fires, larger diameters could be used to store fishing poles, bedrolls, hammocks, maps, any number of useful tools or items. Purchase the corresponding connectors in the right diameter, a can of PVC glue. Cut the PVC to your desired lengths. Apply glue to one end of the PVC and push the cap into place. Apply glue to the other side of the PVC and quickly apply the screw on cap. Let the container sit until the glue has finished drying, then sand off the excess glue, and then spray paint the container the desired color.

This project is not expensive, but does require the maker to purchase a few things. However, this project too, is infinitely customizable and adjustable to suit the maker’s needs. I find that a short five inch container will fit six cotton swabs that I have designated as fire starting material and fits easily in my fire kit. I have made some of these for each of my family members to keep on them.

There are a number of other projects that can be made from home, that I have yet to try but will be working on in the coming months. Tents, bedrolls or sleeping bags, and hammocks are all things that can easily be made at home and by making them at home you can cut down on the cost, the weight you will have to carry and you of course benefit from learning a skill that will come in handy in a Deep Schumer situation. You will also know exactly how to repair or replace a great deal of your equipment and materials should it ever break or fail. You will be able to apply these same procedures to other areas such as in the making or mending clothes, bed linens or blankets. Furthermore, making your own equipment and materials at home puts you in the mindset of self-sufficiency, an attitude that will come in handy in any Schumeresque event, be it a natural disaster in the form of a hurricane, flooding or earthquake, or a more serious and long-lasting disaster.



Letter Re: Surviving The Cold

Dear Mr. Rawles:
n reference to the recent SurvivalBlog article “Surviving The Cold”, by The Other D.B.: It is never repeated enough: wet cold kills.   The advice to test your rain gear with a garden hose is priceless.

A piece of kit that I have found invaluable exercising or working in the cold is the Neck Warmer / Head Wrap. This is a simple tube of stretch polypropylene or polyester fleece or wool.  Critical to better protect the vascular area where you lose the most heat–our head and neck.

You can see some examples at these three vendor sites:

Using a Wrap as a base layer allows you to apply the layering effect for your head and neck, fine tuning your head and neck insulation to your level of exercise and heat buildup.  If you only have one thick layer on your head, you have to choose between a hot, sweaty head with your hat on, vs. chilling off too fast going bare.

These Wraps are so light you can keep extras in pockets, so you can swap out to a dry wrap if you do get sweaty.   In the cold I like to use two at a time – one as a neck and lower face wrap, and one as a base layer on the head, under helmet or cap.   I keep two in my car, two in my pack, and two in the pocket of a jacket.

Another great feature is that they dry out very fast attached to the outside of your pack.

Beyond being a neck warmer or head warmer the Wrap can also be a balaclava, helmet liner, dust mask, facial camo, goggle cover, sun protection, etc., etc.:

 

Another somewhat obscure article of clothing with similar benefits is the “neck dickie”.

These are available in a Coolmax sweat wicking Military Brown at Vendio and heavier fleece.

This is literally a  polo neck that has been cut off to just cover the neck and upper chest and back.  The huge advantage here is that you can add a layer without adding more bulk on the shoulder socket/arms, and it can be quickly and easily pulled off to adjust your layering (without the hassle of taking off a jacket or pack, or webbing).

Important proviso – as with almost all synthetic materials they are lighter than wool – but are vulnerable to melting in a fire, causing more severe injury than a natural fabric burning.  Don’t wear synthetics in high fire hazard areas!  (Note – there are synthetics made out of Nomex that are fire-retardant – but they are very pricey.)

Full disclosure: We sell head wraps as accessories to our tactical goggles, but – we specialize in Body Armor, not clothing, and are really not looking to sell small, individual clothing items, so our bias here is quite minimal!

Yours Truly, – Nick at BulletProofME.com



Letter Re: How to Make Homemade Dog Food

Captain Rawles,
I wanted to add my two cents to the award-winning December, 2011 SurvivalBlog post How to Make Homemade Dog Food. This post was great to educate people on the fact that it wasn’t that long ago that dog food wasn’t purchased at the store and that the store bought “dog food” really isn’t that great for “man’s best friend”. I learned this after getting my third dog. The other two did great on store bought dog food, and in fact, my Lab lived for almost 15 years on the cheapest dog food from Wally World.

When I bought my current dog I did the research on the breed and everything said that Great Danes, had digestive problems. Starting out, everything went great. Purchasing the middle to upper expensive dog foods did the trick, until she grew to full size. That’s when it went south, and by south I mean she had uncontrollable diarrhea. Upping the ante I went for the most expensive food I could. Even with the lamb and rice formulas designed for sensitive stomachs, nothing worked. After about two months I was ready to give up. Back to the research phase. What I came up with was that the commercial dog food is full of grains and “filler” that, even though most dogs are able to adapt to this diet, isn’t a natural food source. So now what?

If you notice what a dog’s teeth look like, they are nothing like a cow or even like a humans. They do not have the teeth to grind up grains and grasses. They have teeth that cut their food. That is why our sharpest teeth are called canines! They may be able to eat both meat and some veggies like D.M.D. stated but since they are descendents from wolves, think of what a wolf eats. The only veggies/grains/grasses that wolves eat come from the stomachs of the latest kill.

I began feeding my beast raw chicken, eggs, and any other meat I could get my hands on for cheap. I have never seen such a turn around from a dog that didn’t tolerate “dog food”. She gained about 20 lbs within a couple months and was very healthy. The diet I started, and am still doing to this day four years later, is mainly chicken quarters. Raw and whole, with the bone and everything. I add eggs, raw, shell and all. Elk when there is scraps from the hunt, deer, fish, pork, really anything she will eat, which is almost any meat I have tried. The main ingredient for me though is ten pound bags of chicken quarters from Wal-Mart. When I started this diet, three years ago it was about $0.49/lb, now (no such thing as inflation right?) it is still about $0.67/lb which, when compared to any dog food from the store, it is very competitive.

I do not cook the meat and I do not take out the bone. From a young age everyone is told, “don’t give dogs chicken because the bones will splinter and isn’t good for them” well when chicken isn’t cooked the bones are very soft and spongy, not dry. They don’t splinter when they aren’t cooked and aren’t dried out. They go down with the rest and actually milk the anal gland when coming out the other end (a lot of pups have to have this done manually when they go to the vet/groomer, or they do it themselves by dragging their behinds on the ground). Again, think of what a wolf eats in the wild. They don’t strip the meat of bones and cook it do they? Wolves and dogs have a higher acid level in there stomachs that take care of the bacteria that make humans spend the day in the bathroom.

Until that post I didn’t know there was a debate about whether dogs were carnivores or omnivores. I do believe that dogs have adapted to their surroundings and can survive eating both, but, I do believe and have proved with my current dogs that they not only can eat an almost strictly meat diet but actually thrive on it. Try it yourself. Get your dog a raw piece of chicken and some rice with green beans and carrots. You’ll see that your pooch, while able to handle all of it, has carnivorous tendencies.

SHTF scenario, Cujo will do just fine if he is eating the scraps from your table. Be it all meat or meat with veggies. I would guess that they could revert to their ancestral state easier than most would think. I think there are post’s on feral dogs on here so you can educate yourself on that some other time. Keep your powder dry. – C.A.



Economics and Investing:

It is coming soon, folks! Obama: Let’s Save Money by Making Coins with Cheaper Metals

G.G. flagged this: On the Dole: A fifth of all Americans

Moody’s Cuts European Sovereigns

Feds shut down Amish farm for selling fresh milk. (Thanks to Michael W. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Tail Events, Isolation, New Normal

Oil Falls Toward $100 Ahead of US Supply Data

Greece Faces Further Obstacles in Bailout Deal

US Market Shakes Off Greek Worries and Advances



Odds ‘n Sods:

Kevin S. suggested this: What Most Gun Nuts Get Wrong

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File under “Emerging Threats”: Medieval Weapon at Center of Beating Case. This adds new meaning to the expression “Getting medieval” on someone.

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SurvivalBlog’s Pat Cascio flagged this: Pentagon May Oust Troops Involuntarily to Meet Reductions in Budget Plan.

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Reader E.B. sent this news from Canada: Mandatory gun sentence struck down by Ontario judge

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For those of you that are trapped in cubicles and reading SurvivalBlog on your lunch hour, this video clip is guaranteed to make your day: Automatic Glock with incendiary rounds. (Warning: There is one brief bit of foul language.)