When the power goes out, the lights go out – simple as that! Many people will then reach for a flashlight, only to find, that the batteries are dead, or dying – assuming they can even find a flashlight at night, when the power goes off. I have to admit, in my younger and dumber days, I fell victim to this many times. Living in a rural area, especially during the winter months, our power goes out several times due to trees falling over on power lines. Last time, we were without power for several days, in the winter when a huge snow storm knocked down hundreds of trees onto power lines. We have electric heat, too – but we keep a kerosene heater on-hand, and it really heats our house nicely – thank you!
Look, let’s be brutally honest here, old-style D-cell flashlights, that cost a buck or two just don’t cut it any longer – they don’t through much light, and they aren’t very durable, unless you go to some of the better “police” flashlights, even those aren’t as good as they should be. Over the past half dozen years or so, technology has really gone wild when it comes to small flashlights, that throw a tremendous amount of light, using nothing more than A, AA or AAA batteries – which are still fairly inexpensive. When my wife and I were first married in 1979, I worked two full-time security jobs, one of which was, patrolling around the wooded areas around Trojan Nuclear Power Plant (now dismantled and gone) all night long, with a K-9 companion. I carried a “lantern” style flashlight, the ones that take those big and expensive rectangular 6 Volt batteries – that only lasted an hour or two. Needless to say, it didn’t throw a good amount of light, and I was buying batteries several times a week – and it was big and bulky to carry and handle. I would have paid anything to have had one of the new hi-tech flashlights that are available today.
Leatherman Products recently purchased a company called LED Lenser which is producing some very affordable, hi-tech, super-bright, small flashlights. I received three samples for test and evaluation for this article, and I’m totally impressed with them all. Up first is the LED Lenser M7. is only 5.39″ long and weighs a mere 6.81-oz, and runs on 4 AAA batteries. We’re talking a little flashlight that throws as much as 220 lumens (with a boost to 235-lumens), at a distant of 650-feet. Living out in the country, I had ample opportunity to test the brightness of all the LED Lenser flashlight samples sent to me, and I’m here to tell you that, the M7 does as advertised – I can easily light-up the distance of two football fields. Power time for the M7 at 220 lumens is 1-hour, however, there is another setting on it that gives you 30-lumens that will last for 11-hours. Yes, you read that right eleven hours – and that will easily last you all night long in your dark home at night when the power goes out.
The LED Lenser also has Rapid Focus which allows you to go from reading to searching by using the thumb on your holding hand to simply slide the bezel away from you (pushing forward) in one seamless movement. Many flashlights you have to use two hands to adjust the focus, assuming you have the feature on your flashlight. I could easily light-up my entire front yard by focusing out, instead of focusing in, for a tighter light. The M7 is made out of aircraft grade black anodized aluminum for a lifetime of rough use, too. The M7 also has what is called “Smart Light Technology” and this gives your 8 different sight functions, including a strobe for blinding and disorienting someone who might be a threat to you – and this works as well in daylight as it does in the dark, too. Ok, I have to admit it, but I did have to go to the instructions that came with the M7 to figure it all out…I was playing around with this light, and it kept doing “different” functions for me, and I couldn’t figure out what I did wrong. You don’t need a PhD to figure it out, but you really need to read the instructions and practice.
One more feature I’d like to mention is the Advanced Focus System is the patented combination of reflector and lens to create a light system that provides both a focus beam for long-range and a homogenous split-beam for u-close reading – easier to see than explain, but it’s one of those “gee, why did I think of that” things. Also the M7 comes with 4 AAA batteries (nice) and a polymer clip-on “holster” that allows you to carry the M7 on your belt or pants. There’s a small lanyard ring on the butt of the flashlight, right next to the push-button on/on button. You can also lock the flashlight head so as to not move it from long-distance to up-close reading. I really like the M7, it will get the job done if you are in law enforcement or a home owner who needs to see what went “bump” in the night. While not really designed as a non-lethal weapon per se, it will easily temporarily blind an attacker with the bright 220 lumens that it emits – giving you time to escape or find a weapon with which to defend yourself with. Full-retail on the M7 is $100. Yes, that is a little bit spendy, but I’ve had other hi-tech flashlights, that easily cost more than twice this amount, that didn’t have the features the M7 has…it’s a best-buy in my book for a flashlight that has so much to offer.
Next up is the P7 that is only 5.24″ long, and weighs in at 6.77oz, and it also takes 4 AAA batteries (included). Now, the P7 doesn’t have all the same features as the M7 does, it doesn’t have 8 different functions, and you may not need all those functions. However, you do get 175-lumens, with a power boost up to 210-lumens for a one hour run time. Or you can power down to 27-lumens for 13-hours, if you don’t need a super-bright light all the time. The P7 also has the Advanced Focus System as well as the Rapid Focus, plus the Dynamic switch that Pros want to switch at lightening speed and adjust brightness equally fast. This baby would make a great flashlight for around the camp fire, walking the dog in low-light or whatever chores you have that require added light. At only $60 full-retail, its worth checking out.
The last LED Lenser I received was the P3 AFS P – and this little power house is my favorite of the samples I received. The P3 is small, really small at only 3.66″ long, and it weighs a mere 1.48-oz. We’re talking small, very small! The P3 has 75-lumens, and a one hour run time on a single AAA battery. Yes, one hour at 75-lumens with one AAA battery! And, believe me, this is a lot of light in a little package. The end of my driveway is about 80-feet from my front door, and I could easily light-up that area, as well as across the road to the mailboxes, and onto my neighbors pasture with this little light. Again, it is made out of aircraft grad black anodized aluminum, and it has the Rapid Focus feature as well as the Advanced Focus System. It comes with a battery, and a small Nylon carry pouch that you can slide onto your belt and have this little baby with you all the time. There is also a key ring attached, so you can add your house and car keys to it. There is also a pocket/clothing clip, if you want to carry it attached to your pants or shirt pocket.
Without a doubt, the P3 is a keeper, and anyone and everyone can benefit by having one of these itty-bitty flashlights on their person, in a purse or any place. You will have a hour of light in an emergency, and we’re talking 75-lumens of light, not 15-20 lumens that the average 2-D Cell flashlights give out – that don’t throw the light very far, and they don’t last very long. And, it really isn’t a problem to carry a spare AAA battery in a coat pocket, either. Full-retail on the P3 is only $40.00 and this one is the best-buy of the three I tested, in my humble opinion, and I like the fact that it is soooooo small and handy, you can have it with you all the time, even clipped to a shirt pocket or pants pocket.
Back to my days patrolling around Trojan Nuclear Power plant…I couldn’t tell you the number of times I had to use a flashlight to light-up an area when I heard something go bump in the night, or when the interior guard company could call on the radio and report an alarm went off on the fence surrounding the plant. I worked for a different company than the one providing security inside the plant. There were usually two of us patrolling around the outside of the plant – usually in wooded areas. We worked from sundown until sun-up – we’re talking a long shift, walking all night long with a K-9 partner, with no back-up other than our K-9 partner or the other officer – and it might take them 20-minutes to reach me if there was a problem. One of the biggest “problems” we had was the head of security at the plant, he was always “testing” us, to see if he could sneak into the plant. That never happened, we caught him every time, and would hold him on the ground with our K-9 partner barking and on high alert, until our other human partner could assist. I would have loved to have had one of these LED Lenser flashlights back then. It would have been much easier holding someone at gunpoint, with a smaller, hi-tech and super-bright flashlight, than with an old “lantern” style flashlight. I could have seen a lot farther in the dark with a super-bright flashlight, too. And just think of the money I could have saved by buying AAA batteries over the old big rectangular flashlight batteries.
On more than one occasion, I shinned by flashlight on a momma black bear that roamed the woods where we patrolled – and she had a cub with her. So, we were always on alert for the momma black bear and her cub. The LED Lenser flashlight shinned into her eyes might have given her cause to roam some other area. In short order, I started carrying a Remington Model 740 .30-06 semi-auto rifle, as a back-up to my .38 Special revolver after my first encounter with the momma black bear. We also had packs of feral dogs that caused us a lot of problems – again, a super-bright flashlight, like one of the LED Lensers would have been nice to have on-hand. A good flashlight can make all the difference in the world!
Look, if you’re still using a dollar 2 D-cell flashlight from the dollar store, get rid of it – simple as that. Get yourself a hi-tech flashlight, that throws a lot of light, is light-weight and will give you a lifetime of service. Your life and the life of a loved one might just depend on a really good flashlight. When I hear something go bump in the night, or one of my German Shepherds starts barking, the first thing I reach for is a flashlight – then a firearm, before I go investigating in the dark. A person can’t hide from the bright light emitted by the LED Lenser – even the small P3 with the 75-lumens. Once you go hi-tech flashlight, you’ll wonder why it took you so long. You can pay a LOT more for a hi-tech flashlight than the LED Lenser line-up has to offer – by why pay more? Check out the complete line-up of LED Lenser flashlights on their web page, and I’m betting good money, you’ll find more than one you’ve simply gotta have. BTW, all LED Lenser flashlights are also waterproof, too! – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio
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Letter Re: Concealed Carry Permits–Pros and Cons
Hi James:
I’m just wondering what you and your readers think about concealed carry permits? When the SHTF, do I want to have a permit and be within the bounds of the law, but also be “registered” with the government? So far, all the weapons I have are hand-me-downs, so haven’t had to do a background check for purchasing a new weapon, but needing a new handgun, so unless I find a private sale, that may soon change. Any thoughts or advice? – Greg S.
JWR Replies: My view on this topic is undoubtedly biased, since I live in a western state where open carry without any permit is legal, as is carrying a loaded gun in privately-owned cars and trucks. So my view is: why pay a fee to seek permission for something that is our pre-existing right and hence should already be legal?
FWIW, I predict that Idaho and Montana will soon follow Wyoming’s “Constitutional Carry” lead and legalize concealed carry inside of city limits with out any permit. (Freedom is on the march!)
For those who live in more regulated states, getting a permit might make sense. And even for me, it might make sense so that I could carry concealed when traveling out of state. (Under interstate reciprocity agreements.)
I’d appreciate feedback from the blog’s readership. I’m sure that opinions must vary widely.
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Recipe of the Week:
Judy N.’s Only Whole Wheat Bread
Preppers are always looking for a way to use their Wheat Berries. Here is a recipe that does not require you to grind your wheat more than once.
Step 1: Mix together the following:
1 package Dry Yeast
1 ½ cups Warm Water
1 Cup Warm Milk
1 Tablespoon Honey
1 Tablespoon Brown Sugar
1 Tablespoon Molasses
1Tablespoon butter
Allow the yeast mixture to sit for 5 minutes
Step 2: Mix in a separate bowl:
4 Cups coarsely ground wheat flour (plus extra for Kneading)
1 teaspoon Salt
Step 3: Blend the yeast mixture with the flour mixture. Mix until you have a smooth dough (if the fixture is liquid add coarse ground wheat flour – if the mixture is too dry add warm water.)
Step 4: Remove Dough from bowl and place on a floured work space. Knead it thoroughly, using as much whole wheat flour as necessary so the dough is not sticky when finished.
Step 5: When dough has been kneaded to a smooth spongy consistency, place it into an oiled bowl, cover and allow to proof in a warm place for 40 minutes or until doubled in size,
Step 6: Punch down in bowl until air has been forced out. (Once or twice) Cover and allow dough to rise for 30 minutes.
Step 7: Divide dough and for into 2 or 3 round hearth bread loaves, place on a cookie sheet dusted with corn meal. Cover and allow increasing about ½ to 2/3 in size.
Step 8: Right before the loaves go into the oven make a wash of egg, milk and water. And brush the top of the loaves. Also make a slash or two with a very sharp knife. The brushing of the egg mixture will give the loaves a great crust and the slash will allow the bread to bake more thoroughly.
Step 9: Bake in a preheated oven of 400 degrees F for 30 to 45 minutes. (If the bread is getting to dark in color, lower temperature to 375 F.) To check the loaves are done, tap on the top for hollow sound.
Chef’s Notes:
If you can resist temptation allow loaves to cool on a cooling rack. If not enjoy with butter and honey while still warm from the oven. And share!
Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:
Patrice Lewis recently posted: Orange roast chicken
There are lots of great recipes posted over at SurvivalistBoards.com
Currently Available as Free Kindle e-Books:
Tiny But Mighty – Lentil Recipes
31 Gourmet Casseroles – The Gourmet Casserole Cookbook For The Foodie
Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!
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Economics and Investing:
Matt H. recommended this 4-minute video (auf Deutsche, but with English subtitles): A Grim But Realistic Prognosis Of What Lies Ahead For The European Union. (Dictatorship ahead?)
Items from The Economatrix:
Not Just Gas! Check Out The Drastic Price Increases On 21 Everyday Items
GE, McDonald’s Give Wall Street A Black Eye On ’87 Crash Date
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Odds ‘n Sods:
Sales have been brisk for the Rawles Gets You Ready Preparedness Course. (Available again, after being out of print for nearly three years.) It is now sold only via digital download, but priced quite affordably.
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G.G. flagged this: Disaster shelter offers full kitchen, flat-screen TV
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SGT mentioned an interesting report on Outlaw Motorcycle Gangs and the U.S. Military, published by the BATFE. The report is mixture of good hard intel plus some innuendo, and a couple of implausible logical leaps. (For example, the supposed founding of the Hells Angels motorcycle club by veterans of the 303rd Bomber group is a myth that even current club members are quick to admit. The bikers just liked the name.) The key lesson from this report for SurvivalBloggers: Watch out for the 1-percenters in your area. Come TEOTWAWKI, they will be ruthless and unrestrained. (Note, however, that the other 99% of bikers pose no particular risk–they are just everyday folk.)
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Reader Michael R. mentioned yet another reason to squirrel away plenty of ammunition, now: Syrians Place Booby-Trapped Ammunition in Rebels’ Guns
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Reader P.T. found a gent in Weatherford, Texas who is selling food grade buckets in great condition in 4, 5, and 6 gallon sizes with lids. I bought 20 of the 6 gallon buckets with lids from him for $1.50 each and and he threw another one in for free. He keeps them in his garage so they are well protected. He stated that he can always get more and had several hundred on hand when I stopped by.
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“I’ll return when civilization becomes civilized again.” – Ray Milland as Harry Baldwin in Panic in Year Zero, 1962. Screenplay by John Morton and Jay Simms, adapted from Ward Moore’s novels Lot (1953) and Lot’s Daughter (1954).
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 43 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 43 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Basic Cane Fighting Self-Defense, by Michael L.
I think it is best to start with a simple disclaimer: you really can not learn any kind of hand to hand fighting skill from an article… especially one without pictures. If you really want to learn martial skills (I think “martial arts” is a terrible translation) then you need to seek out competent instruction and apply yourself to your lessons. There are a million pieces of advice on the Internet, even on this site, concerning how to pick a style or school but the simple fact is that you are limited to what is affordably offered in your area. Visit the available schools (and instructors) to find one where you feel physically, psychologically and financially comfortable. Even if “Fist X” is demonstrably the greatest fighting style ever it will not help you if the nearest school is 750 miles away or the fees are more than you make! Nor will “Fist X” help you if can attend classes but do not put in the effort necessary… receipts for karate lessons may get you a black belt but they will not win a fight!
All that being said, I know there are many people looking for something to give them an edge in hand to hand combat who do not have the time, resources or interest necessary to undertake a serious study of martial skills. There are literally catalogs full of self defense items aimed at this group and many of them are highly effective (but many of them are cheap pieces of garbage, too). The problem is that more and more places bar you from carrying any of these items. Sporting events, casinos and concert venues, for example, regularly run all attendees through metal detectors. They won’t let you bring in your lucky penknife with it’s dull 1.5 inch blade, much less your canister of tear gas, collapsible baton, pressure point keychain, TASER and double-edged boot knife! Yet we have all read stories of fans being beaten at games, robberies in parking lots and more. Therefore a self defense item needs to be not only effective and fairly easy to use but permissible to carry at all times. Instead of turning to the latest high-tech self defense gizmo I recommend returning to one of the oldest: the cane.
The cane and its cousin the walking stick have been used as weapons by almost every culture at one time or another. From the Blackthorn shillelaghs of the Irish clans and the Japanese jo staff, our ancestors saw the advantage of carrying a nice, stout club… whether or not you actually needed the assistance walking. Around the turn of the last century when urbanization saw an increase in crime coupled with a decrease in the legality of carrying weapons, several manuals and gyms appeared touting the cane or umbrella as a convenient, legal weapon. In fact, Sherlock Holmes was even supposed to be a student of Bartitsu, the hybrid Asian-European fighting system that included fencing with walking sticks. Canes and walking sticks are still readily available and readily accepted because they are still needed by so many people. What about umbrellas? Most are just too flimsy to effectively use, although in a pinch they can be treated as a hook handled cane.
Canes are not viewed as weapons and as such can be carried almost anywhere. I have used one on and off since high school and I have never had anyone question my need to carry a cane. It sometimes even gets me moved up in lines! It is important, of course, that you actually walk with your cane, even if you are not supporting your weight with it. If you are questioned remember that many people do not constantly need walking assistance and carry a cane for use on stairs or hills, when they begin to tire or just in case their knee suddenly “goes out.” The cane’s ability to hide in plain sight makes it the ultimate concealed self defense device but it comes with a possible drawback. Given the predatory nature of criminals and thugs, it is quite possible that your walking stick will make you look like the weak member of the herd. It is quite possible that walking with a cane will actually draw trouble to you. I have personally never had this happen but it is definitely worth considering before you decide to carry a cane.
In this article we will only be able to touch upon the most basic fighting technique and for our purposes there is little practical difference between a walking stick and a cane. You will be striking with the “head” of either so walking sticks are a bit easier to use because you never have to worry about the angle of the head while striking. When using a cane there is a specific spot you will want to use to make contact (where the handle, whether curved or straight, meets the shaft of the cane, but more on that later). Both canes and walking sticks are easy to find and available for any budget. For advanced fighters, the cane offers the ability to hook your opponent with the handle and walking sticks allow smoother transitions between various grips but these are not things you should try without some serious training.
Canes have the advantage of being very, very cheap and easy to find. Almost every drugstore, discount mart and grocery store will have inexpensive aluminum canes for sale. Last time I took a shopping trip with my wife I saw them at five stores, including a large gas station! These cheap models are actually a great option for self defense; just avoid the ones that fold up completely to store in purses and the ones with a four-pronged foot at the base. Select a straight-shafted cane with a single point of adjustment; it does not matter if it has a curved or straight handle. These canes are typically less than $20 new (and often closer to $10) but they are almost always available at thrift shops for a dollar or two. Even if you want to buy something a bit nicer, I suggest picking up one of the cheap canes as a practice piece and to help you determine the appropriate length of cane or walking stick for your body. They also are easy to store in your car or truck so they make a great back up to a more expensive cane.
If you prefer a non-adjustable cane many wood and synthetic options are available. Several fighting systems teach cane techniques so there are “fighting canes” available. They are often made of rattan or hardwood and almost always come with a curved handle (or hasp). These can get expensive, but they are typically solid and dependable. I would suggest, however, avoiding anything that is marked as a fighting cane or carries “martial arts” symbols. The advantage of the cane as a self defense device is that it does not look like a weapon; advertising that it is a weapon is literally a potential liability! Also be sure to avoid anything with a knife or sword hidden in the cane. They are concealed weapons so they open up a world of potential legal trouble. Worse yet, in my 20+ years of cane fighting I have yet to see one that is not a poorly-constructed piece of garbage.
If a walking stick is more appealing to you then you will probably need to resort to Internet shopping. There may be stores that offer walking sticks in your area (my favorite cigar shop always has a few on hand and I am sure that Irish-theme gift shops will have some expensive options, too) but there probably is not a section in your local Yellow Pages listing them! If you are able to shop in the real world for a walking stick, look for a solid stick that will not flex and if it has a metal or decorative headpiece, make sure it is attached well. After all, that is going to be your point of impact. If you are handy then you can always make your own; sometimes woodworking shops even have kits available. When shopping online a good place to start your search is Cold Steel (the knife company). They have a few options and a range of prices. I myself regularly use their African Walking Stick, a durable, synthetic piece fashioned after the fighting sticks used by the Zulu. They also make a synthetic shillelagh and traditional straight walking sticks.
Some canes and walking sticks have wrist straps attached. When you are walking with your stick never, ever use the wrist strap! You may want to cut them off but I usually keep them intact. I sometimes put a small metal bead on the wrist strap. Even though that bead does not pack much of a punch it gives me a few extra inches by acting as a little whip. Honestly, I find the real advantage of the wrist strap comes when pulling my cane off the floor or out from under the car seat. If you choose to use one of those cheap metal canes you may find that the handle has a plastic plug (usually where the wrist strap attaches) which constantly falls out. You can just throw it away if you do not want the wrist strap or you can glue the plug into the handle. Before you do that, however, you may want to shoot some glue and marbles, sand or metal shot into the handle and position the cane so the mixture settles in the striking point (I’ll explain where that is in a minute) for a little extra weight. Be warned, though: some municipalities may still have laws on the books prohibiting weighted canes that date back to the turn of the last century.
If you choose a walking stick then your striking point, that is the part you want to land on your target, is simply the head of the stick. Simply put: the part you hit with is the part you hold. Canes are a bit more complicated but not much. There are two common styles of cane handles in the cheap adjustable models, the inverted J and the 7, and each has its own striking point. For the inverted J (a cane with a rounded handle like grampa used) the striking point is where the handle meets the shaft. I know that this may seem like the exact opposite of where you should hit but it isn’t. Striking with the point where the handle meets the shaft allows you to take advantage of the weight of the handle, virtually eliminates the possibility of cracking the handle with a blow and minimizes the chance of getting tangled up with your target. If your cane has the 7 style handle then your striking point is where the hand grip meets the short length of the cane that is at a 45 degree angle. Some canes have an L shaped handle, usually with enough handgrip on one side of the shaft for just one finger to grip. In these cases the striking point is the edge of the handgrip on that short side. I have seen a few, very few, metal canes that have a triangular handle with a hand grip parallel to the floor (kind of like a spade handle) and 45 degree angles on each side that meet the shaft. If you have one of those then you can hit with either side of the hand grip.
If you actually need a cane’s assistance to walk, use it in the hand your doctor has instructed. Otherwise, I suggest using your cane or walking stick with your inferior hand. That is, if you are right handed, use your left hand to walk with your cane. This keeps your dominant hand free to use keys, write, drink beer or whatever it is you do when out and about. It also allows you to smoothly (and very quickly) transfer your cane to a fighting stance. You will find that by twisting your wrist you can move your palm from facing down (on the handle of the cane or head of the walking stick) to facing your other hand. This will lift the bottom of your stick up to your dominate hand. Grasp the stick about one hand’s length from the bottom and then let go with your inferior hand. You are now ready to wield your cane. If you have to use your dominant hand to grip your cane while walking you can transfer it into a fighting position by making a sharp upward motion with your hand while letting go of the cane. Basically, you are just tossing it straight up! The key is to catch the bottom end of the cane (again, about one hand’s length from the bottom) while it is in the air. This takes a bit of work to get the timing down right, so if you have to walk with the cane in your dominant hand be sure to practice (and well away from your television, spouse or anything else fragile and valuable).
As I have already said, you really can not learn fighting skills from an article. Therefore, I am only going to cover one very basic strike with canes and sticks. Yes; we’ll cover only one easy to explain and understand basic strike, but it can be delivered a few ways (so you can think of it as two or three different strikes if it makes you feel better). Simply put, think of your cane as a giant hammer. Swinging it as you would a hammer you can deliver powerful downward vertical strikes, horizontal strikes that move from your inferior side towards your dominant side and angled strikes at about 45 degrees. The blows should be delivered firmly and retracted quickly. This is a critical concept: hit fast but bring your weapon back into your ready position even faster. Do not let your cane linger after strikes… you really do not want to get into a tug of war over your stick with an opponent. For maximum power, your elbow and shoulder should both move as you strike but your wrist should remain rigid. If you have an old punching bag you can practice striking it.
I like having students beat on an old tire raised up to chest level or a 2/3 full 2 liter bottle hanging from a tree to get used to striking with a cane. If you don’t have any experience with melee weapons you are probably going to be shocked at how much you feel the strikes in your palm and forearm so it is important to build up a tolerance to striking with the cane. You do not want to experience the shock of striking something with your cane for the first time when you actually have to use it for defense. As a general rule you want to keep from overextending your arm. When your arm is extended it is in a weaker position (and slower to react). This leaves you vulnerable to having your weapon tangled or taken. Try to avoid raising your hand above your head or lowering it below your belt to keep from overextending. Also do not “reach” to try to land a blow. I always teach: “If no one is close enough to hit, don’t hit no one!” If you absolutely must hit at opponent who may be out of range then step towards them and strike, do not extend your arm or lean forward to bridge the gap. Finally, never fully straighten your elbow (that is just asking for trouble of the broken arm variety).
In the movies, when someone wields a cane or walking stick they are usually fencing with it. That is awesome if you know how to fence… but if you don’t then stick with the hammer/club approach. When those movie heroes do use their canes like a club, as I suggest, they are always blasting people in the hands with pinpoint accuracy to make opponents drop their weapons. Don’t do that either! Seriously, if you had a gun would you try to shoot weapons out of your enemy’s hand, Lone Ranger style? Of course not! You aim for the biggest part of the target that is in your line of sight. We’ll do the same thing with the cane, except we will aim for the biggest target in the path of the cane’s swing.
Picture someone standing in front of you or look at yourself in the mirror. As mentioned above there are three basic angles to make hammer strikes: horizontal, vertical and 45 degree. All three of these angles find a target in the area between your opponent’s head and shoulder making this area your prime target zone. Conveniently, as a shoulder is found on either side of the head you can reach this target zone no matter which hand you use. As you picture your opponent, imagine how the blows neatly fall into place. Horizontal blows go to the temple, vertical blows hammer into the collarbone while the 45 degree angled blows should be aimed where the neck meets a shoulder. If your aim is off with these strikes chances are you will still land a blow, which is a real advantage! If a shot aimed at the collarbone slams into the top of your opponent’s head or that temple shot cranks them in the jaw or ear, it’s probably close enough! You will find that it is fairly easy to one of the angles to another…. straight down, retract back to your ready position, straight across, retract, 45 degree angle, retract and so forth.
In a perfect world we wouldn’t have to worry about our personal self defense. In a slightly less perfect world we would all have the time, inclination, opportunity and physical ability to learn a solid hand to hand fighting system. In the world we live in, I’d argue that it makes good sense to carry some type of self defense aid that will not keep you from going about your daily business. For me, I believe the best aid to be a club that masks itself as a medical necessity: the cane or walking stick. I hope that this article has been informative, but once again I would like to urge all readers to try to find some formal training with a qualified instructor. I hope that you have learned something that will help keep you safe even if I haven’t inspired you to seek instruction, but I pray that you are never in a position to need self defense skills.
Letter Re: Iowa as a Retreat Locale
James,
In response to the Major regarding southwestern Iowa as a Retreat Location:
While I have a fond affection for the southwestern Iowa and surrounding region, I do not feel that it is an ideal retreat location, especially during certain circumstances, such as a power
grid failure due to EMP or solar flare. There is an abundance of fertile farm ground, but I’d like to point out there are also two nuclear power plants in the area located at Brownsville, Nebraska and at Fort Calhoun. Nebraska, just north of Omaha. I, for one, will be vacating the area under those circumstances. – Pathfinder B.
Letter Re: RVs and Camping Trailers Provide Multiple Backups on a Budget
JWR;
I am surprised that more people are not considering recreational vehicle (RVs), specifically Travel Trailers and Fifth Wheel Trailers, as important prepping tools They can provide many advantages, backups, and a natural training environment for TEOTWAWKI. Here are a few more:
- Add a military surplus M1950 stove with a few parts from the hardware store to safely run the chimney through the standard RV ceiling vent [and insure proper ventilation] and you could live in an RV all winter. We keep these parts tucked away in our at all times.
- Add a 12 volt powered water purification system and you can refill your onboard potable water daily. We use ours on almost every trip.
- Adding several larger solar panels and an inverter will not only provide you with ample electricity but can serve as a backup to provide electricity to your current home or bugout location.
- When bugging out you may not only bring a your living quarters with you but consider that it is a heavy duty trailer that can potentially haul several thousand pounds of food, water, weapons, and other gear along with you at the same time. If our family has 24 hours’ notice to a disaster we could load out our 32 foot travel trailer to effectively live for a 6 – 12 months without outside assistance. This assumes wood for fuel and access to a relatively clean fresh water supply for purification and the ability to get to the location.
It can be pre-positioned before things get really bad. - A distant relative may be more likely to take you in if you have brought your own living quarters.
- Once at your bug out location an RV can becomes a potential secondary location if the primary is threatened.
- Bug out Bags and tents can be carried within it to provide even more redundancy or as gear to share.
- The knowledge developed while providing electricity, heat, cooling, water, cooking, living in relatively tight quarters, plumbing, and waste disposal will give you knowledge that most do not have.
- It is great for a family to vacation in one of these as it forces everyone to cease from the distractions of normal living and focus on each other (from proximity of other family members alone).
Off grid camping with your RV is great fun and is a great way to train for a worst case scenario without anyone questioning it.
While not perfect solution to all prepping problems, an RV is an excellent way to provide flexibility to your existing bug out plan.
Troy V. in Minnesota
Economics and Investing:
Egon von Greyerz discusses the current economic situation and the possibility of a new Swiss-minted gold coin as a parallel currency. And here is a related essay by von Greterz, with a chart: Disregard current manipulation of precious metals.)
Pierre M. sent: Survey: 40 Percent Of Americans Have $500 Or Less In Savings
Milk Seen Surging 15% on Drought-Feed Costs Before Demand Slows. (Thanks to R.B.S. for the link.)
Items from The Economatrix:
Expect Severe Inflation, Time Is Running Short To Take Action
Odds ‘n Sods:
G.G. flagged this: Report: Violent crime rises sharply, reversing trend.
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A series of news photos which illustrates that the majority Syrians have an irrational fear of having the buttstock of a rifle touch their shoulders. (Perhaps fear of being bruised?) Regardless, it does not produce good marksmanship. Learn from their mistakes.
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My mother sent the link to this funny news clip: Car Jacker Can’t Drive Stick Shift
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Ah, yes, Oklahoma: Where the men are men and their little girls are just about as tough. 12-Year-Old Girl Shoots Intruder During Home Invasion In Bryan County
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Reader C.D.V. sent a link to a company that makes the world’s toughest canning jars: Hercuglass
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“Be not thou therefore ashamed of the testimony of our Lord, nor of me his prisoner: but be thou partaker of the afflictions of the gospel according to the power of God;
Who hath saved us, and called [us] with an holy calling, not according to our works, but according to his own purpose and grace, which was given us in Christ Jesus before the world began,
But is now made manifest by the appearing of our Saviour Jesus Christ, who hath abolished death, and hath brought life and immortality to light through the gospel:
Whereunto I am appointed a preacher, and an apostle, and a teacher of the Gentiles.” – 2 Timothy 1:8-11 (KJV)
Notes from JWR:
The Articles for Deletion debate over at Wikipedia is nearing an end. Even though the editors are admitting that the articles are on noteworthy books, they feel bound by their self-imposed rules on “reliable sources”. It seems that they’ve forgotten about one of the Five Pillars of Wikipedia, which is that “Wikpedia has no firm rules.” If you have an opinion one way or the other and are experienced with making changes at Wikipedia, then please chime in on whether or not the Wiki articles about my novels “Survivors” and “Founders” should be deleted.
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Today we present another entry for Round 43 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.
Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.
Round 43 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
RVs and Camping Trailers Provide Multiple Backups on a Budget, by Judy C.
Thorough prepping is expensive. Many people are living paycheck to paycheck, struggling to put food on the table (plus a few extra cans for the pantry). Alternative power, water, sewage, and refrigeration are back-burnered to the ever-growing “wish list.” So what’s a prepper on a shoestring budget to do?
Consider a used camping trailer or recreational vehicle (RV)! You can find a used trailer for as little as $500. We paid $1,200 for a 35-foot RV. Besides weekend camping, the RV offers the following in a self-contained package:
- fresh water holding tank
- water heater
- flush toilet
- shower
- gas stove and oven
- 3-way refrigerator (regular electric, battery, and gas)
- temporary sewage disposal
- temporary waste water (“gray water”) disposal
- heavy-duty power inverter with deep cycle batteries (can be charged with solar cells or generator)
- propane tanks
- beds to sleep eight
Some models even include 12-volt television, DVD player, and music systems.
Short-term Emergencies
Some emergencies are short-term and temporary in nature, such as wildfires, predicted hurricanes, or chemical spills. With a stocked camper or rv, you can temporarily bug out with most of the comforts of home. Many RVs have dual fuel tanks, giving you a much longer travel range than the family car, especially if you aren’t traveling at high speeds on the interstate. You may be able to drive to a location out of harm’s way and return without ever stopping for fuel. If you have a trailer, you may be able to add an auxiliary fuel tank to your tow vehicle to increase travel range.
Bug-Out Planning
As a knowledgeable prepper, you are alert for signs of impending crisis that could result in TEOTWAWKI. Hopefully, you can be on the road to your bug-out location before panic sets in. Just another family on a leisurely camping trip, tra-la-la.
Of course, once panic sets in, with fuel shortages, traffic congestion, and the possibility of armed bandits treasure-hunting the highways, you don’t want to be lumbering along in a deluxe Class A motor home. All the more reason to A. Leave early. B. Buy used (old and ugly, but reliable is the goal). And C. Maintain a low profile (no NRA bumper stickers, expensive bikes on exterior racks, etc.).
Pre-TEOTWAWKI, your camper can help you in your quest for a good retreat location. Most sellers will allow a potential buyer to spend the night in a self-contained camper on the property. It’s a good way to learn about typical night-time noises, such as trains, wildlife, and neighborhood nuisances. Once you find your retreat, you may choose to park your camper there so you don’t have to worry about bug-out traffic. Be aware that unattended campers sometimes attract youth looking for a place to party, thieves looking for sporting goods, and wandering homeless looking for a place to sleep. Cache your food, weapons, and valuables in a storage unit nearby, or build one or more hidden storage spots on your property.
Sheltering in Place
But where the camper can really come through is when you decide to stay home and ride out the emergency, especially if you’ve done some advance planning and local recon.
Water and Sewage Systems
Keeping the fresh water tanks full gives you several days’ supply of water for cooking, drinking, and cleaning. And if you have a well and a generator, you can top of the tanks as needed. Camper water heaters operate on propane, so you’ll have hot water for showers, as well.
Campers have separate holding tanks for “gray” and “black” water. “Black” is sewage that will eventually need to be disposed of. There are several options to consider. Adding a few feet of pipe and a connector (and cap) to your regular sewer is the simplest option. You can also purchase wheeled “dump tanks” from camper supply stores. Dump into the tank, then wheel the tank to a dump station and dump it. Finally, you can drive the camper to a local campground and use the dump station to empty the tank. (Check out local options in advance—many public parks allow free dumping.) “Gray” water can be recycled to water plants, livestock, etc.
If you’re in a northern location, you’ll need to either insulate and heat-tape pipes and tanks, or have them drained and winterized to prevent freezing.
Cooking and Refrigeration
The gas stove and oven in your camper don’t need electricity to prepare food. You may need to have a lighter or matches to light pilot lights or burners. Two large gas bottles last a surprisingly long time—and the connections are the same as your gas grill. So a few extra bottles of propane can be used for either the grill or the camper. If you have a large propane tank for your home, you can even buy adapters to fill the smaller gas bottles from the large tank. One large tank and a few small ones can easily last for a year or more.
The typical refrigerator is a “three-way”. It can be run on gas, AC power (regular utility line current), or DC power 12 volt (battery). The most important thing to remember is that the camper refrigerator works best when the camper is level. You may need an assortment of boards or leveling jacks to accomplish this goal.
Power
Most campers are equipped with a heavy-duty power inverter and one or more deep-cycle batteries. Batteries can be recharged with solar panels or generator. A full charge will usually last several days powering refrigerator, lights, and television or computer. Using the air conditioner or furnace blower will consume a lot more power.
Guest Accommodations
When friends and family arrive, where will they sleep? With a camper, your guests (or you) can sleep comfortably and privately.
When and Where to Find Camper Bargains
Fall months are the perfect time for northerners to find bargain priced campers. It’s the end of the camping season, gas prices are going higher all the time, and financially-challenged consumers are looking for non-essentials to sell for much-needed cash.
Your best bargain will be with an owner, not a dealer. You can look on Craigslist or local classifieds. Drive through local campgrounds and family neighborhoods and look for “for sale” signs.
In the southern sunbelt states, spring offers the best bargains. Snowbirders may not want the expense of taking the camper back up north or the worry of finding a suitable place to store it.
Some Things to Check When Buying a Used Camper
- Tires—be alert to signs of weather-checking that can make the tire unreliable.
- Make sure brake lights and turn signals are in working order.
- Check interior for signs of leaks, such as ceiling stains.
- Ask the seller to start the refrigerator, then come back the next day to see if it’s cold.
- Check water and drain pipes for leaks.
- Inspect gas tanks for missing or damaged fittings.
- If buying a trailer, make sure your vehicle will tow it. Make sure your hitch is the right size and the wiring plugs are compatible.
- Once you’ve bought the camper, make a “dry run” in your back yard to make sure all systems are operable and camper is properly stocked. (50 cans of food are worthless on a camping trip if the can opener is at home. Trust me, you don’t want to buy a can opener in a typical over-priced campground store.)
You can also buy a used camper from a dealer, which may give you some recourse if something doesn’t work right, and possibly a financing option. But expect to pay $3,000 or more for a used trailer from a dealer.
Camper Bargains to Avoid
While easier to tow, most pop-up campers won’t have the same self-contained features of an RV or full-size trailer. Many older models don’t have a bathroom; the “refrigerator” is an icebox (meaning you need to stock it with fresh ice every day or so); and there’s no oven, just a three-burner cooktop.
Slide-in truck campers may have self-contained features, but smaller space means smaller holding tanks, smaller refrigerators, and less storage space. Instead of two large propane tanks, they have one small one.
One More Advantage of the Camper as Shelter
TEOTWAWKI will bring many challenges. While we can try to anticipate common scenarios, it’s hard to anticipate exact reactions to specific challenges. If your group includes children or elderly family members, a disruption in normal routine can intensify a crisis situation. However, the multiple backup systems in the camper can help maintain a semi-normal routine. Even the most crisis-ready prepper will appreciate a flush toilet and hot shower. While children will most certainly have chores and responsibilities, there will be times a battery-operated DVD player will be a real treat. Your crisis can be your child’s “adventure.”
A few years ago (while we still lived up north) our neighborhood experienced a week-long power failure in December. Same week as youngest daughter’s birthday. We still had a birthday party—lighted by oil lamps, with homemade chili made on top of a kerosene heater, store-bought cake, and ice cream kept frozen in a snow drift by the front door. She still talks about the awesome birthday party she didn’t expect.
And when it’s all said and done TEOTWAWKI will lead to a New World We Will Build. Yes, we can improvise toilets with garbage bags and five-gallon buckets, and take sponge baths alongside the creek if we have to. But why not enjoy flush toilets and hot showers as long as possible?