Trauma School, by John M.

Little shoots of green grass are peeking up in my part of the unnamed western state due to the unseasonably warm weather we’ve been having. Hope the sun is shining wherever you are today as well. My desire today is to share some knowledge and tidbits I’ve picked up at my job in the medical field. I hope these notes will be of benefit to you in the days ahead and that you can use them when I’m no longer coming in to work to help good folks like you because I’m at home guarding my food storage and family from the “unprepared and unprincipled”. The standard warnings apply, if you do this stuff at home pre-TEOTWAWKI, you may kill yourself or someone you love, but when there’s no other choice when the SHTF, well, you’ll have to decide for yourself. So, without further adieu…

Let’s say that you find yourself in a situation like some character in JWR’s “Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse”. Living in northern Idaho, you’re a member of the resistance that is fighting back against the UN intrusion. As part of a three-member cell, you are often sent on missions for either reconnaissance or to show the opposing forces a little “Idaho welcome” with your heavily modified potato guns. Inevitably, one of your two companions suffers a fractured femur after falling from a lookout post. As they lay writhing on the ground, you instinctively know that by applying traction to the broken extremity, the muscle spasms will subside, giving your friend much relief. Take any piece of straight, rigid material you have with you, such as a branch from a tree, a walking stick, a ski pole, tent poles (doubled or tripled up and lashed together), etc., and lay them along the broken leg. Apply heavy padding to the inside of the groin and around the ankle in the form of folded t-shirts, etc. Now, use any form of rope or webbing available to tie two loops, one around the thigh high in the groin, and the other around the ankle, over the padding you just applied. Again, make sure they are well padded or you will cause more discomfort and risk interfering with circulation. They shouldn’t be loose, but don’t need to be overly tight, just enough to slip a finger or two under. Now with your remaining rope or webbing, attach the groin loop to the top tip of your straight, rigid pole. Do the same with the ankle loop, except make a simple pulley loop running from the bottom tip of the pole up through the ankle loop and back down to the tip again. In this way you can increase the amount of traction on the leg as necessary to relieve as much pain as possible. Furthermore, your rope/webbing/twine around the ankle, groin, and pole may relax with time, so you can simply unknot the pulley, pull tighter, and re-knot to keep the traction effective. When finished, lash the pole to the affected leg around the ankle and mid-calf for greater stability. One commercial option I’ve used is the Kendrick Traction Device (KTD) if you have the funds, but it is definitely not necessary. I would recommend watching a YouTube video of applying a KTD just in case you have questions about any of my instructions above, as obviously a video is worth 10,000 words.

Now that you have traction applied and your accomplice is happily enjoying a fentanyl lollypop for pain control, you need a litter to evacuate. Litters are made in all shapes and sizes. I’ll give you a couple examples, but the guiding principle here is to use your imagination and whatever is available to create a gurney-like device that you and your non-injured friend can use to haul your injured ally back to home base. The simplest option is to lay a square tarp down (maybe your tent footprint) and tie a knot in one corner to create a pocket where the injured individual’s feet will go. Then simply lay him diagonal on the tarp with his feet in the pocket, fold the tarp over top (he can even help hold it closed) and then drag him home from the head end of the tarp. In this way, one person can evacuate another without any help, but if you had some help they could lift the foot end so the injured didn’t get such a jarring ride. Obviously, don’t drag from just the foot end because it would be like being pulled down a flight of stairs by your feet. If he didn’t have a brain injury before, then he surely would after bouncing his noggin down the trail being towed by you.

The next variation on the litter just takes it a step further by adding rigidity. Lay your tarp down and run two of those rigid poles (like the ones we talked about earlier, a straight branch, a walking stick, NOT your M1A because you’re still under attack) down the center about two feet apart. Fold one straight side of the tarp over one pole, and then the opposite straight side over the other pole. Both sides are folded towards the center so they end up overlapping each other somewhere between the poles. Lay the injured between the poles on the tarp, and with one person at the head and one at the feet, lift and carry. If you don’t have a tarp handy, lay down two coats, vests, or heavy shirts (zipped or buttoned up), top to bottom or bottom to bottom, turn the arms inside out (turned into the body of the garment), and run the poles through the inverted arm holes and out the bottoms. Load the injured between the poles on the coats and carry him to help.

There are endless variations of litters, and I’ll wrap up this section with one of the most ingenious I’ve ever seen constructed. Take a long length of rope and lay it on the ground in a back and forth fashion like a snake (imagine a radio wave with high frequency and high amplitude) leaving yourself a coil of at least a third of the rope at one end. Each wave’s “amplitude” should be about three feet wide from bend to bend and the “frequency” should be about a foot apart. Next, lay the tarp down on top of the rope, adding a blanket if it’s cold out. Now you can add poles or an empty backpack for rigidity. Lay the injured on top and wrap him in the blanket and tarp like a burrito. Now with your leftover coils, start lacing the package together by “sewing” the amplitude waves over the tarp, back and forth, back and forth, until you get back to the other end. Go back through and pull out all the slack you can to really tighten it down, but save the tightening till you’ve laced all the way through or it may throw off your waves. You now have a very secure (and warm!) litter that many people can help carry, each grabbing a piece of the rope on opposite sides of the injured. Eight of us once used this litter to carry a rather heavy individual and it made the trip much easier. This also makes a great straight jacket for your friends experiencing TEOTWAWKI psychosis until they can calm down a bit.

While carrying your pal out of enemy territory, you’re probably going to be shot at and possibly even take a bullet or two. Assuming you don’t get shot anywhere really bad like the guts, heart, lungs, brain, spine, etc., you may live! Bring out those fish antibiotics and open wide, friends. I’m not going to cover the “sucking chest wound” or anything that would require a wound vac, a chest tube with suction, or any other heroic medical measures, because it is a very precarious situation to find yourself in a level one trauma hospital, let alone TEOTWAWKI. I’ll just say that if you get shot in the arm or leg or whatever and you don’t exsanguinate, then clean the wound very well with a mixture of half hydrogen peroxide and half normal saline, pack gently with iodoform gauze using a sterile cotton-tipped applicator (or anything sterile), and cover with sterile gauze and tape. Iodoform gauze comes in many widths, I personally like the ¼ or ½ inch varieties because they get in the crevices better. Take the dressing off every day, rinse with the ½ hydrogen peroxide ½ saline, and pack again with new iodoform gauze (using strict sterile technique!) and cover. Eventually (this may take a long time) the wound will begin to granulate and it will fill in. Keep feeding this person protein! I have personally taken care of people that either got shot or suffered some other penetrating injury through the legs, abdomen, flank, and arms who eventually recovered with this course of treatment. As far as antibiotics, I’ll leave that to Dr. Bob, but basically just keep taking whatever you have and keep the wound as clean and sterile as possible. Since I know you really want me to say some names to satisfy your cravings, my favorite antibiotics for this type of wound seem to be trimethoprim/sulfamethoxazole (Bactrim) by mouth and of course cephazolin (Ancef) one or two grams every eight to twelve hours if you have IV capabilities.

On the topic of antibiotics, no one ever mentions the side effects. If you are on antibiotics for a few days or more, you may get a nasty little red rash in your privates and some super funky white growth in your mouth. That is fungus growing in your moist bits. There is a natural war happening all the time between your bacteria and your fungi (who knew you were such a “fun-guy”). When you load up on the antibiotics, it gives the fungi the go ahead to take over those moist, dark places of your body. You need an anti-fungal such as nystatin or miconazole, but in a serious pinch I would try some crushed garlic, citronella oil, coconut oil, iodine, tea tree oil, or some of the other alternatives you can find cruising the web. I am not an infectious disease expert! I have just always had nystatin and it has always worked. Keep as dry as you can with baby powder and clean those areas scrupulously and often.

When your team mate fell off that lookout and broke his femur, he may or may not think about his dislocated kneecap until a bit later. Dislocations can happen in all the joints- shoulders, knees, fingers, etc. Each is put back into place a bit differently, but the principle is always the same, slow steady traction. In some Hollywood movie, a character dislocates his shoulder, and to reduce it (the medical term for putting it back in place) he rams his shoulder full steam into a wall or something. That’s Hollywood for you. In the real world, every time I’ve dislocated my shoulder, the doc applies slow steady traction until the muscles fatigue and stop their spasms and the joint will pop back in almost on it’s own. Man, I can’t tell you how good it feels when it does that. Don’t be surprised by the sound, I promise it is a relief, but be prepared for weak-stomached onlookers to faint when they hear it.

The how-to of reducing dislocations is a topic in itself, but just in case you ever find yourself alone in TEOTWAWKI with a dislocated shoulder, here is what I would do. Find a flat place to lay face down where you can hang your arm over the side, a kitchen table is ideal. Place something heavy on the floor, a five or ten pound dumbbell or ammo can. Lay face down on the table with the affected arm hanging over the side and gently pick up the weight and hold it just off the floor, with your arm hanging straight down, then try and relax and think some happy thoughts. After a while, your shoulder muscles will tire from the traction of weight, and they will allow the head of the humerus to slip back into the labrum (the ball back into the socket). You’ll know when it happens, I promise. Warning- do not dislocate your shoulder more than you have to, it will become so loose that it slips out in your sleep, quiet a weird experience to wake up to. After TEOTWAWKI, you won’t be able to get your orthopedic surgeon neighbor to do the surgery you need quite as readily.

Knees and hips follow the same principle, but you need another person to help. For knees, lay the “patient” flat on the table with the affected knee bent at 90 degrees, wrap your elbow around the back of the lower leg at the top of the calf muscle, and apply traction away from the pelvis. You’ll probably need someone holding the patient’s shoulders so you don’t pull them off the table while you’re holding traction. The top of the tibia will eventually slip back into connection with the condyles of the femur. Hips are essentially the same positioning (person laying on back, knee bent at 90 degrees, the “doctor’s” elbow wrapped under the knee to provide traction) except they require rotation (abduction) of the leg to the outside to get the trochanter (top of the femur) moved out of the way and back into the socket. Again, this is a topic that requires a little more than a paragraph. Your local paramedic or emergency room doctor can lead you aright, but YouTube is always a great place to start if you don’t have time to volunteer on Friday nights at your local emergency department. All the standard warnings apply, if you do this at home pre-TEOTWAWKI, you risk nerve impingement or circulatory disruption and you could lose the function of your extremity at the least and eventually die from any number of possible sequelae.

Since we’ve covered dislocations, we should quickly cover ligaments. Ligaments are those awesome pieces of 550 paracord that God put in and around our joints to hold them together and keep them moving in the right fashion. If your friend who fell off his LP/OP is complaining of pain in the knee, you can examine the four knee ligaments to determine if he has a tear. With him laying on his back and the knee flexed at 90 degrees, gently attempt to move the tibia forwards and backwards at the joint. You can practice this right now where you’re sitting if your knee is bent. With your hand resting over your kneecap, use your other arm to push and pull your lower leg (the top of your tibia) towards and away from your pelvis by pushing at the top of the calf muscle in the back and just below the kneecap in the front. You may feel slight movement, but more than slight movement or intense pain while doing this following an injury is indicative of a tear. The other two ligaments are tested by attempting to angle the lower leg inward and outward (adducting and abducting) while holding the thigh still. If you get movement or pain, your in trouble. Rest, ice, elevation, compression, ibuprofen, and a good knee brace will be the TEOTWAWKI prescription for healing, since you won’t be getting any tendon repair surgery post-SHTF.

At this point I’m going to slip in a quick note about the spine. When your buddy hit the ground and commenced his injured state, there’s a high likelihood he also suffered a spinal injury of one level or another. The most frequently injured portion is from the base of the skull down through the neck, the cervical or “c-spine” area. Think of those videos of motor vehicle crash test dummies. When they hit the wall, their neck flexes down till their chin touches their sternum and then extends back up in a whiplash movement. That’s a c-spine injury. One of the first things paramedics do when they reach the scene of the crash is to immobilize the c-spine with a hard collar. At my facility we use the Aspen brand, but you can buy any number of hard cervical collars. After the wreck, people are so focused on their other injuries that they sometimes don’t notice the aching neck, or they think it’s just an ache and shrug it off. Unless you’ve squirreled away a CT scanner and neurosurgeon at your retreat (hey, it could happen), leave that collar on for six weeks! You’ve got a much better chance of decreasing the subsequent neurological impairment by keeping the neck immobilized, as well as decreasing further injury when the injury swells. You’ll know you’ve got a problem when you can’t move or feel an arm, but I’ve seen people walk in with three column vertebral fractures, not knowing that if they broke that fourth column they’d sever their spinal cord and become an instant quadriplegic. Under the current guidelines, we leave the collar on for three to four days till the other injuries subside, then get flexion/extension films of the c-spine before removing the collar. Post-TEOTWAWKI, six weeks of a hard collar is going to be a lot better than any amount of nerve impairment that reduces motor control or sensation. Lastly, the collar should be snug! Loose collars are as useless as not having one on at all.

To conduct a TEOTWAWKI neuro exam, have the “patient” flex, extend, abduct, and adduct his arms, hands, legs, and feet against resistance. Any focal weakness, numbness, tingling, or pain is indicative of nerve impairment. If any member of my group showed such signs, they’d likely be relegated to bed rest with bedside commode privileges for six weeks. Obviously they’re going to get stiff and weak and grumpy, but better than losing the ability to walk because of a thoracic or lumbar fracture that got worse because of too much activity. The hardest part is learning to get out of bed correctly. Learning the log roll can really help. Flex the knee 90 degrees opposite the side of the bed you plan to get out of. Reach the ipsilateral (same side) arm across your chest and grab the side of the bed. Pull yourself onto your side with that arm and by pushing with your flexed leg. Focus on keeping your hips and shoulders square to each other to prevent twisting in your spine. You are now on your side close to the edge of the bed you’ll be getting out on. As you drop your legs over the side of the bed, push yourself to a sitting position using the hand you pulled yourself over with and the elbow you rolled onto. That’s the log roll, and it will save your back a ton of straining and stress if you have a fracture or some pulled muscles. Some Flexeril, Soma, or Valium will help those muscles relax and quit their spasms, but you’re going to look like a druggie if you go ask your doc for them. Try alternating ice packs with heat packs, and stay on top of the pain meds.

Speaking of pain, I keep waiting to read a “how-to acupuncture” article on SurvivalBlog, but until then will just have to keep stockpiling the acetaminophen, aspirin, ibuprofen, and naproxen. Pain is a topic unto itself, but for the moment suffice it to say I would direct the reader to an excellent presentation called “Pain Management in the Wilderness” by Casey Turner and Patrick Zimmerman of Wilderness Medicine of Utah. It gives the topic of pain a thorough but easily understandable examination. For further reading I recommend “Wilderness Medicine” by Paul S. Auerbach, MD, and “Pain Management in the Wilderness and Operational Setting” by Col. Ian Wedmore, MD. Since reading up on wilderness medicine is basically the same as SHTF medicine, you cannot go wrong with the Wilderness Medical Society, the Wilderness Medicine Institute, or the Wilderness and Environmental Medicine Journal. I take no responsibility if you learn how to do a peripheral nerve block or employ herbs in any manner.

One final thought- if your friend doesn’t die from the initial impact, the lack of modern medical care, or the innumerable complications that we haven’t discussed, it sure would be pitiful for him to expire from a bowel blockage after he lays around for weeks and sucks down your narcotic supply like a kid in a candy store. Bowel movements are close to, if not the number one reason people spend an extra day in the hospital after surgery. All those pain pills put your bowels to sleep, and coupled with long hours in bed, you’ve got a recipe for constipation turned deadly. You better have some senna, docusate sodium (Colace), biscodyl suppositories, and Fleet enemas stockpiled. Give the senna and Colace one or two times a day starting immediately, and mandate a suppository or enema or both on day two or three post injury if no bowel movement.. They may not feel like eating or drinking, but fiber and liquids are a must and should be encouraged. If you have done all of the above but cannot produce a bowel movement and cannot hear bowel tones when listening to the abdomen with your stethoscope, the person will presumably be vomiting foul smelling bile and it’s time to start digging if you don’t have access to a nasogastric tube and intermittent suction.

Well friends, that’s about all I have to say for now. Here’s to us all being well versed and well prepared for a coming day in the future when the ER has been ransacked and the grocery stores are empty. Maybe we’ll meet and trade some junk silver for some .22 LR, or you could trade some of your new-found medical knowledge to someone in desperate need in exchange for a mansion in our Father’s Kingdom. May God’s blessings rest upon you and yours.



How the Average American Can Prepare for the Coming Collapse, by R.M.

It is very difficult for the average middle class American to prepare for the coming collapse; those that recognize the need still see it as maybe too late to do anything or there is too much to buy and prepare to be completely prepared.  Unless you are independently wealthy, that may be true, it is nearly impossible to be 100% completely prepared for all eventualities.

The first thing you need to do is to prepare your soul and your family, they have to understand and be on board.  Your family and yourself must first get right with God if you haven’t, and accept Christ as your savior and bend to God’s judgment, let his will guide your first and foremost.  After this you must begin your preparations, none of us know when the time will come, more than likely soon, but it may be a week away or years away, and every little bit will get you that much closer to survival and make your position far better.  I won’t go into deep detail on every facet of information as there are ample books and blogs explaining the “how to’s” and if you are on survivalblog already than you have a monstrous wealth of knowledge at your fingertips.  This is a quick once over to help the read understand the basics and get started, remember that knowledge is the best weapon you have, read, learn, try and repeat until you have it mastered.

Finances

More than likely you don’t have a lot of disposable income have had your hours cut back or have a hefty mortgage.  You have to look at all the expenses in your house, if renting is it reasonable, is there a way to find a more remote location to move to, or a cheaper place to rent that would save you monthly expenses?  Cell phone bills are an easy way to cut, if you have multiple phones consider cutting back to one main house phone, get a pen and paper and write down things to buy at the store instead of calling home from there to figure out what you need.  Cell phones are handy but are they worth the extra 60-100 dollars they are costing you a month?  Cable is not necessary, it is a convenience, if you have cable you probably have internet, have one house computer, sell the others, and get your news off the net.  Whatever disposable income you have, start to put it into tangible goods, things that you can use or sell in the coming TEOTWAWKI situation.  I invested a good portion of my net assets in precious metals in 2008 before the price went up, but even with the higher prices now you have to remember that when the time comes that everyone realizes that they should buy gold and silver it will be too late to get adequate amounts.  Buy “junk” silver, 90% dimes and quarters, they don’t have the numismatic value of silver Eagles or gold Krugerrands, but people won’t care about the collectibility of the coin in TEOTWAWKI only the content. Don’t buy 1-ounce “trade dollars” or bars. What I mean by this is the 10 or 100 oz silver bars or 1 oz gold coins, those are worth a lot individually and you will need your metals to barter for things like food, ammo, clothes, etc.  day to day items not a new care, so buy small amounts, which is why junk silver is so nice, because about 1.30 in silver coin is worth a 1 oz silver piece and you can barter more accurately with the smaller denomination.  It’s okay if you can buy $10,000 worth of coin now, if it’s just a few hundred at a time, that’s more than fine, shop around get the best deal, but don’t not buy storage food and ammo to buy more coin, you can barter with silver but you can’t eat it, and at the beginning of the collapse people may only want “beans, bullets and Band Aids” as the military says.  In short, don’t eat out, buy bulk and buy cheap, learn to cook with simple ingredients that can be found in nature.  Cut out non-essentials, don’t take that vacations to Hawaii, instead go out camping and you can test the gear you buy and get your family used to living it rough, and relying on what they have and on God’s bounty in nature.  I know many people might disagree, but get out of your retirement accounts, cash them in take the hit, or at least don’t put your money into them anymore.  List out all your expenditures and future expenditures and figure out where you can cut out wants and boil it down to actual needs and go from there.

Food

Food isn’t hard to find and buy, with the proliferation of bulk food stores like Costco, Sam’s Club, etc.  On a tight budget you can see when there are deals on canned vegetables and other foods and when you go out buy a few cans per trip and it will add up.  This is a less efficient course, because when you buy in bulk you save much more per can than individually.  If you can’t afford a membership find a friend that does or find a few and pool your money and have the owner of the account shop for everyone. You can save up to a dollar a can in some circumstances.  Bulk Salt, Sugar, Molasses, Coffee and every other staple can be purchased there.  Buy in bulk store it in a garage or wherever you have room, and add to it over time as money allows, in a short while you will be amazed at what you can accumulated.  Read up on what is needed for an adult man, woman, and child to survive and buy accordingly.  You’ll need an ample source of carbohydrates, proteins and fats.  Hard Red wheat is a favorite of mine, you can (with a home grinder, recommend the Country living grain mill, it’s the best on the market) grind your wheat when needed into flour to make bread and it retains its nutrients much longer than buying flour itself.  You can also soak it in water overnight to make Wheat Berries and add some brown sugar and/or honey and it makes a nutritious breakfast that’s not too bad.  If you can’t find a cheap local seller of red wheat, check local bakeries many will sell it at wholesale or a buck a pound if you bring your own bucket.  For long term storage you need food storage grade buckets, and there are many techniques including Mylar bags with dry ice and “Gamma seal” lids, just a quick search on any survival site will give you more detailed information on how to pack and store this once you get your supplier lined up.  A quick tip is instead of buying the buckets online, is to call local bakery shops, or supermarkets, restaurants that buy bulk cooking foods and ask if they have empty buckets laying around.  Make sure that the buckets ARE food grade and haven’t had any chemicals stored in them.  Check for smells because if they held pickles and you don’t clean them out with bleach and baking soda then you might have pickled flavored wheat come TEOTWAWKI time. 

The other way to get your food storage situation in order is to look at bulk pre-packaged meals like those in the military MREs or the Mountain House meals you see at camping supply sections.  These meals are dehydrated, have long shelf lives and only usually need water to cook/heat up.  The downside is that they are much more expensive per calorie than say a bucket or hard red wheat and canned fruits/veggies.  The upside is that they are great emergency and Bug out (a term that denotes you needing to leave quickly) food, as they can be thrown in a backpack and left there for longer than your family dog will live.  If money is tight then I would only use this as a small portion of your total food storage. Definitely have some pre-staged in “Bug out bags” (will mention this later, but basically a backpack for each individual, easily available to grab and leave quickly if things get bad) so that you will have meal(s) to eat on the go and MREs can be rationed out to last a few days each.  Check Craigslist, local surplus stores and of course the internet, as they are sold everywhere and can range from $50-to-90 a case (of 12).  The last big item to mention for food is seeds and hunting.  Hunting will require weapons which will be discussed later and will be dictated by where you live and availability of game in the area.  Seeds on the other hand are very important for long term survival in a TEOTWAWKI situation.  The average seed store will sell you a pack of carrots or tomatoes that with a green thumb and good soil produce copious amounts of the fruit or vegetable wanted, but most people don’t save the seeds they produce to use the next year.  This is because of two reasons, one the packs are cheap and two most seeds are what are called “hybrid seeds”, meaning that they are made to produce good yields of each plants bounty, but the in a generation or two the seeds produced will not be viable.  What you want to buy are “heirloom” seeds, these seeds often don’t produce as big of yields of as their Frankenstein hybrid cousins, but year after year, the seeds they produce will grow true and can be used indefinitely.  Search out web sites that sell heirloom seeds and research the plants and crops that will grow best in your area, or areas near you will be moving to after the collapse.  Research heavily, I have a whole folder that has page upon page of information on every heirloom seed that I buy and that has helped tremendously when I did my own small experiments and tried my hand at home gardening, this information and experience helped me immensely to accumulate the knowledge needed to know how and when to plant, what plants to plant around or keep away from my “crops” as now the learning curve only means I lose a plant or two or none grow at all until I figure the tricks out.  In a TEOTWAWKI scenario when your life depends on this food, the learning curve will mean life or death.  You don’t want to OJT in a survival situation; you need to know the little tricks before.  Intent is good, knowledge is better and practical experience is golden.

Water

Water is one of the most important links in survival and a post indoor plumbing; TEOTWAWKI will amplify this for every man woman and child on this planet.  Most people take their ample water supply at home for granted, flip the faucet and water will run continuously.  When that water stops where will you get yours? Even if you have a house more than likely, as in 99% of the time your pump is electric with no manual backup. If you have your own well there are manual pumps that can be made and fitted to use before, or if you have the money to buy them, solar powered pumps are and option as well.  If you live in the city, or even the suburbs many times, you are dependent on city water and will be SOL in TEOTWAWKI.  First thing to do in any emergency is plugging the drains in sinks and tubs and fill it with water, you will need this to fill bottles, camelbacks, etc for your run from the city. 

Wherever you go one thing that it will need to have is water available, whether it’s a solar/hand pumped well, a neighboring creek or some other water source.  The closer the better because a five gallon bucket of water weighs around 41.7 pounds and hand carrying that long distances gets old real quick!  A water filer is a must especially if your water comes from a standing water lake or pond or even a stream.  I know and have drank from fast moving streams deep in the mountains, as they are often free from bacteria, but this was necessity and I know use a Steripen UV water purifier for when I fill my canteens.  The problems with streams is that you never know what is just upstream from you, a dead moose/deer or other animal could be lying dead or a friendly bear could be giving you the big finger by taking a dump in it.  Like I said I carry a candy bar size Steripen for my hiking trips with a solar recharger case for my mountain camping, but that takes 45 seconds to sterilize a quart of water, and only as long as the battery lasts.  The best plan is to buy a Big Berkey water filter with a 3.5 gallon per hour filter rate, and its filtration is second to none.  This baby runs about $250+, so it is out of the price range of some, but if you can make it work, it is well worth the investment.  This is a in-house filter and not good at all for on the go, in the same price range is the portable  Swiss made Katadyn pocket filter that you can use to fill up your canteens or Nalgene bottles from lakes and streams.  These are two examples of great filters for in house and on the go (bug out) use, but there are other ways to filter your water for cheaper.  The Common container of bleach (original non-fragrance) is an old standby for water purification.  Use ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water, or a full teaspoon per 4 gallons of water.  This is a cheap purifier and should leave avery slight bleach smell, this only means that it has done its job, but may not taste like it’s from the Brita.  Another more economical solution is to use “Pool Shock” a common ingredient to make pools safe to swim in and available from any pool care store, online or in your town depending on your environment.  Make sure that calcium hypochlorite is the only active ingredient in the product and at 65% with no added anti-fungal’s, or clarifiers, if not you can seriously endanger you and your family.  You would use about ¼ ounce per two gallons of water, this will make bleach and with that you can use the bleach solution to treat water at 1 part per 100 parts water, roughly 2.5 tablespoons per gallon of water.  I got most of this info from J.W. Rawles on SurvivalBlog.com and the EPA site link, and using this I would definitely go with the EPA’s recommendation of aerating “The disinfected water by pouring it back and forth from one clean container to another” as this does get rid of the smell.  This was more because I had time and it wasn’t survival mode yet, but a bad smell is better than giardia (Beaver Fever) any day!   The last way is to just bring the water to boil for one minute, let it cool and drink it.  This is fine for the campsite but for a larger group of people in a more static location having the ability to treat large amounts of water is a real plus and your energies and time can go to more pressing matters.

Shelter

This list isn’t so much in order of importance, as food and water are important to survival but having a place to stay and survive while society collapses is a must.  If you live in an apartment there are books and manuals available on how to outfit it for “urban survival” but most of these recognize this as being just a “you have no other choice” type scenario and I would discourage it in every possible way.  The truth is yes if you have a fireplace you can burn furniture available throughout the city or construct a makeshift stove to heat and cook from.  You can barricade the doors; form a co-op with other residents, pool resources and all that.  That would be for a short term, month+ plus Katrina scenario where the caped federal crusader will be there to provide food and shelters eventually.  In a TEOTWAWKI world, this isn’t going to happen, currency and government will cease to function, and there will be no coast guard airdrops and FEMA trailers coming.  The best thing to do if you live in an apartment is move to a more remote home with land of your own.  If you can’t do that then, as previously stated, change your life habits, get something cheaper if possible and be ready to leave the city or suburbs as soon as things get bad, and before everyone else realizes it and loses their minds. A quick digression, if you are reading this you already recognize the need to know these things and have somewhat of an idea of how bad things will get.  But remember that 99% of the people in this country have no idea what do when the power goes out and the shelves at the supermarket are empty.  Many people will remain good hearted individuals, but many will not and turn to the darker side of humanity and steal, rape and pillage whatever they can.  Our commanding general in Iraq said that we Marines should “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”  That is the mentality you need to have, that you should live the Christian virtues of charity and love of your fellow man, but have a plan to escape survive and defend you and your family’s life.  Okay Back to Shelter, if you can’t afford a place out in the woods away from the main cities, remote and self sustaining to the best of your ability, network.  Log into survival blog sites like Surivivalblog.com and others and find other like-minded Christian people like yourself that want to be prepared, form groups and pool your resources, more than likely you have skills that others don’t, and if you don’t have any practical survival skills begin to learn them, specialize in medicine, or hunting/trapping, solar power, mechanics so that you have something to offer the group that they need.  There is the rugged individual in every American (And I was of this mindset when I first started prepping) that wants to have a mountain top retreat, hunt, grow and trap all your food, and hold of waves of godless communists with nothing but your AR and brass balls.  Sorry to break this to you if you had the same thought as me, but you won’t survive long-term going solo, or just you and your family.  You could scrounge out an existence, but more than likely you will run out of food and/or gangs of looters before too long.  Your best chance of survival will be in groups, peppers who joined before and after the collapse to help each other and pool their resources and talents.  Your best chance will be to find a place off the beaten path, not near any major highways with freshwater, long growing seasons and plentiful game.  Even with all this life will be labor intensive and difficult.  You will want your retreat in an area where the population has some semblance of self reliance as a community virtue.  It should be within driving distance and if not you need to have pre-filled and rotated gas cans so you won’t rely on gas stations to get there.  There are extensive tomes written on this subject so I won’t try to touch on all the details that lie therein.  Basically you will want to get out of the cities and away from any major populations now, and if not do it before things get bad, read the signs and beat the crowd.  Survival in numbers, folks.

Weapons/Defense/Medical

Depending on whom you ask you’ll get many different opinions on what weapons someone should have to defend themselves in a TEOTWAWKI world.  I’m a firm believer that everyone should have a weapon for self defense even in the pre-TEOTWAWKI world we live in now.  I have the utmost respect for Police officers and have worked with many of them over the years, but Police rarely stop a crime before it is committed, more often they are a cleanup crew.  At the minimum someone should have a handgun, shotgun and rifle.  Handguns should not be your primary defensive weapon now or in TEOTWAWKI, they are great as a backup when your primary weapon runs out of ammo or you don’t have time to reload and need rounds on target quickly. Transitioning (which is what those in the military and plice world call it when you move from one weapon system to another) from your rifle to your pistol is much quicker often times than reaching for a new mag and reloading as your pistol should be already loaded and ready to go.  A .45 is my preferred choice for a sidearm for is stopping power, but there has been a lot of talk about the .40 S&W being of roughly equal stopping power, higher capacity and better ballistics when Special Forces was testing for a new sidearm over the hated M9 Beretta 9mm.  I personally use a Kimber Warrior, but any Colt manufacture .45 is excellent as well, with any weapon read up, shoot ones your friends may have, and many pistol ranges allow you to rent most common pistols, take lessons and use what is most comfortable with you.  I don’t like 9mm as its stopping power is at best problematic as I saw in Iraq and Afghanistan, even with hollow points a enemy can and has taken multiple rounds and been able to still keep fighting, albeit less efficiently.  If you have a 9mm now, consider selling it and getting a .45 if not, it’s still better than a knife or bat! 

For rifles well that’s where we run into a 1,000 different opinions and no matter what you say there’s always someone that says your wrong and this is why.  I don’t care much for armchair shooters’ opinions and I rely on my own experience overseas, I did two tours in Iraq with the Marine Corps Infantry, the last was the Siege of Fallujah in 2004-2005 and then three years private contracting security for companies that have been unjustly maligned in recent years, anyway off my soapbox.  I prefer my M4 for main battle rifle due to its ability to do double duty as both an offensive/defensive weapon as well as hunt small to medium game.  The M4’s main attribute is it is basically a magnum .22 and has quite a bit of “oomph” behind it (the amount of depends on your barrel length and ammunition used).  There has been a lot of talk of it not being able to “stop” a enemy, and I have seen this in Iraq and Afghanistan, and it does sound hypocritical due to my diatribe on the 9mm previously, but the lack of one round stopping power is made of the other attributes the M4 (AR family) offers.  As a Drill instructor told me, the AK is great for uneducated, slow witted mud hut dwellers, they can point shoot and drop it in the dirt, and it will keep shooting, but the M4 is a professional’s weapon.  It can shoot accurately at distances far outrange of the AK (the barrel length will greatly affect this) or many other similar battle rifles, and in the hand of a well trained Marine it is deadly.   I love the AK as well and I own and use one as well as other rifles, but if push came to shove and there was an intruder in the perimeter, my M4 would be my primary.  With proper training and only Iron sights you can hit targets accurately at 500 yards or less.  With the right ammunition you can also hunt animals from rabbits to deer, which makes it a much more versatile weapon than the venerable AK. 

As for a Shotgun I would go with a 12 gauge Mossberg 500 or Remington 870, there are nice autoloader Benellis or other fine quality shotguns, but for the price that you can buy a Mossberg or Remington, you can’t beat them.  They are tough reliable and easy to use, and their close in stopping power is second to none.  I prefer 4 or 5 shot 00 Buck but pretty much any shotgun round at close range will do the trick.  There are also 3 shot+Sabot from Winchester called the PDX1 12 will destroy any intruder or enemy at close range, and even longer distances with the Sabot round.  For the uninitiated the 12 gauge shotgun can be a bit intimidating, so definitely get familiar with the weapon. 

Another quick point would be, if you are forming a group or have a large family, wishing to have a rifle for you, your wife, older sons/daughters, etc.  In any case where you are going to have multiple rifles in your family/group, come up with a group standard no matter which one you choose.  Any assortment of weapons is better than having nothing, but you do not want to be in a situation where you are running out of ammo and the people around you have different calibers and magazine styles, as you can’t interchange them.  So if you decide on the AR family then bulk up on magazines, at least six on each person, in a chest rig or some other type of practical magazine carrier.

Conclusion

To sum up, none of us regular chumps have a lot of extra cash to go and buy two years of food for a family of six an arsenal of weapons, a farm with animals and thousands of dollars in silver this minute.  But over time you can, but that time is rapidly growing shorter, as I believe things are coming to a head very soon.  So first and foremost pray, get right with God, get right with your family, become cohesive, find others you can rely on when things go bad, stock up on what you can when you can.  Every individuals situation is different so look at yours, look at your options, your network of friends and family, figure out who possibly has a place far away from the cities that you could fall back to, talk things over with them, even if they think you’re crazy if they agree, they will thank you later.  Pre-stock food, ammo and other essentials there, bring your family out and camp out in the elements with the, so they have a better understanding before it becomes real.  This is real camping, not Winnebago and a gas grill we are talking about, practice primitive survival methods (that are legal) practice trapping and hunting when the season permits, get everyone in decent shape.  Change your life, save your life and the lives of your loved ones.



Letter Re: Stress and Depression in Disasters

James Wesley:
I often times read through the literature and blogs that speak of survival and the process of survival and one staggering issue is all too often neglected. The psychological and emotional aspects are all too often placed in the distant background or worst ignored altogether. I may not be a psychologist but I know from my own personal demons and experiences that stressful situations can slowly begin to affect the decision making process. In a survival situation a foolishly made decision can and most likely cost you dearly.

Any situation that requires that you begin to think about life in terms of life and death as such a survival situation a physiological and psychological response is made. This is the fight or flight response, while in most cases in survival it would not be usually seen as such; it would be view with “rose colored” glasses. In a survival situation fight or flight might be as simple as a decision to stay put (fight) or Bug out (flight). These and all seemingly small actions have a small guided effect from chemicals in the brain which will have been adjusted by the body due to a high stress situation.

In moments of extreme danger this response in magnified by a greater margin. Symptoms of this would include a rapid increase of heart rate and lung function, pupil dilation, and digestive tract upset. The major cause of this is the bodies’ release of biochemical known as adrenaline. Adrenaline is a special hormone that facilitate to body in performing rapid and violent muscle movements and aid the body in moments of danger (fight or flight).

Due to this you may suddenly freeze and be unable to react to the situation or you make a split second decision for the better or worse. In either case the reaction or lack of reaction may or may not directly affect you current goal of overall survival, but the hidden scars on your emotional well-being and psyche build. The lasting effects are what I’m trying to emphasize here. If in the split second decision you made, a life may have been cut short, you or another received a traumatic or crippling injury you could suffer from several different emotional and psychological traumas. The damage may manifest as survivors guilt, post-traumatic stress syndrome of any number of others, this can lead to depression and result in a greater number of issues as result.

Depression is a dangerous, emotional and psychological state to be in if even not in a survival situation. Depression can affect your ability to sleep properly leading to agitation and aggression, lethargy and even sleep deprivation. Any or all of these responses to improper rest can directly affect your chance of survival. Other reactions to depression can be a change in appetite, while not as quickly debilitating as sleep deprivation, a loss of appetite can slow your metabolism and cause health problems. On the flip side your appetite may increase which leads to a rapid depletion of food sources, a very dangerous problem in the fight for survival.
Depression can quickly turn deadly in facing seemingly insurmountable odds. When constantly faced with difficult situations as one would likely expect to find in a survival situation, suicide may seem to be the only solution. Suicide is never the answer. The state of an individual’s mental fortitude is limited and will become tested to the extreme in such tense and stressful situations. if in a group it is a good idea to just talk with everyone and get them to talk to help them and yourself cope. a simple pat on the back and a hug can go a long way to making a bleak situation better. Never try to escape the situation by using delusions such as daydreams, they may make you lose sight of the priorities.

The truth of the matter is there is no simple answer to the issue of psychological heath in such a situation. One would have to constantly keep themselves aware of their limits and allow them to cope in whatever method suits them. This is even more important to individual with clinical depression or individuals with bi-polar disorder as medications may not be readily available if at all. The moral of this article is keep a positive outlook and do what you can to assure yourself that the situation you find yourself in could always be worse. a good laugh or even a good crying session can be a very Therapeutic way to cope with your situation. support form others is another way of coping by sharing your thoughts and feelings. With a little hope and maybe a prayer, your emotional well-being as well as your chances of survival may take a sudden and unexpected turn for the better. – A.A. in the Northwoods



Three Letters Re: Some Thoughts on Burning Coal

Mr Rawles,
To chime in on the “heat to electricity issue”: A Stirling engine or “hot air engine”), might be what Dale from Vermont is looking for.  There are not many commercially available – one company was making them in New Zealand before the earthquake, but a quick Google search has also revealed that they moved their manufacturing to Spain. There may be others.  According to their web site they haven’t yet resumed their ‘off-grid’ line of  engine production.

They can be quite efficient, and run off any heat differential.  For example: Hot air temperature and a cold spring, or a wood stove and cold air outdoors.  They do need the heat differential, or in other words a heat sink, to provide convection and motive power.  They are several generations/styles that have been developed over the years.  I believe they could be made to turn an alternator.  There are many ‘do-it-yourself” videos on the net by people from all over the world. Hope that helps! – E.B.

 

James:
In response to article Some Thoughts on Burning Coal, writer Dale from Vermont:
 
There are possibilities for building a 12 or 24-volt low voltage direct current system using automotive or aviation industry components and a wonderful little device known as a RhoBoiler, devised by the Rhodesians during the time of economic boycott by the world’s bully nations, which drove the Rhodies to greater self-sufficiency. The RhoBoiler varied in design and construction materials [often a former 44-gallon fuel drum] but was in general a low pressure remote boiler from which hot and sometimes pressurized water was supplied.
 
A recent web search turns up a few descriptions and pictures. An obvious starting place might be a scrapped-out water heater boiler, but obviously, pressure release valves are critical, lest a boiler explosion result. Most of the RhoBoilers were wood burners, given the local availability of wood as a fuel source, but the concept can certainly be adapted to coal-burning and electricity generation as well.

See:

Regards, – George S.

JWR:
Dale from Vermont wrote about the idea of a coal-fired home generator. Here’s a link to a $13,000 steam engine unit. The electrical output isn’t specified, but based on the 3 horsepower rating of the steam engine and
assuming about 40% heat-to-electricity efficiency, it might be as much as 1,000 watts – D.B. in Oregon



Safecastle Freedoms Awards Announced

Safecastle has announced the winners of their video and writing contest. I was pleased to see that a SurvivalBlog writer won first prize and that second prize went to a piece that was originally posted at one of our favorite self-sufficiency blogs, Rural Revolution. (Edited by Patrice Lewis.)

Article Category:

1st prize: “What is a Well-Stocked First Aid Kit” by K.M., SurvivalBlog.com – Prize: Katadyn Pocket Water Filter

2nd prize: “Preparedness for Young People” by Maria S, Rural-Revolution.com – Prize: Excalibur 9-Tray Dehydrator

Video Category:

1st prize: “Survival and Prepping – The Basics” by Falcon15, Survivalmonkey.com – Prize: Katadyn Pocket Water Filter

2nd prize: “PSK Survival Exercise” by ia woodsman, Survivalistboards.com – Prize: Excalibur 9-Tray Dehydrator



Economics and Investing:

Jason G. suggested this XtraNormal You Tube clip: Confiscation Through Inflation.

Best-selling investing author, former Marine (and prepper) Richard Kiyosaki talks some gloom and doom.

C.D.V. sent this: Gold for Oil: India and Iran Ditch Dollar. (Does this sound familiar?)

The Great Economic Storm: We Are Living In The Greatest Debt Bubble The World Has Ever Seen

Items from The Economatrix:

Existing Home Sales Hit 11-Month High In December

One Million Homeowners May Get Mortgage Writedowns

Refinery Shutdown Could Push Gas Prices To $4

Sell Treasuries, Buy Gold



Odds ‘n Sods:

Mary F. sent the link to this sobering video, that has a quite post-apocalyptic vibe: Dismantling Detroit. The accompanying article states: “The past is achingly present in Detroit, and the way its citizens interact with the hulking physical remnants of yesterday is striking… The young men… were the cleanup crew in a shaky empire.”

   o o o

Reader David A. wrote to note that restaurants buy salt in bulk, so if you visit a restaurant supply store or a mailorder outlet or a web site like TheRestaurantStore.com you can purchase 25 pound bags of salt for less than $5 per bag.

   o o o

Alan L. mentioned a free U.S. Army Survival manual, available as an Android Phone app.

   o o o

Mike S. flagged this piece from a Seattle news broadcast: After icy week, volunteers create survival kits for kids

   o o o

K.S. spotted this piece over at Packing Pretty: How to Pack a Conceal Handgun Under a Dress



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Expecting the world to treat you fairly because you are a good person is a little like expecting the bull not to attack you because you are a vegetarian." – Dennis Wholey



Notes From JWR:

There are now so many articles in the queue for the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest that any submitted between now and the end of the month will probably run in the next round. (And of course eligible for the same prizes.) Thanks for your patience!

Today we present another two entries for Round 39 of the contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $275 value), and E.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol. It is a $439 value courtesy of Next Level Training. B.) A FloJak F-50 hand well pump (a $349 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, C.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 39 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Profitable Homesteading: How to Thrive in a TEOTWAWKI World, by Dusty

The idea of homesteading is not a new one.  As a species, we humans have mastered the art of living off the land better than any other species, learning along the way to capture fire, clothe ourselves and even preserve food that we grew to later nourish us. We weren’t content to stop there though.  Mankind “evolved” to reassemble natural materials into unnatural materials such as plastic and combine countless ingredients produced or grown by man into processed foods such as Twinkies, which we figured we might as well wrap in plastic.  Although the modern age has brought many possibilities, many fear that we have gone too far.
We now find ourselves, as a species, barley able to live on our own in the natural world, as we’ve accumulated too many allergies, too many dependencies on modern conveniences, too much dependence on government assistance and, let’s not forget, too many pounds to make it on our own.  Now, Mother Nature is calling many of her children home.
Modern homesteading is alluring to many but let’s face it, even (especially!) in a TEOTWAWKI world taxes still have to be paid, fuel needs to be bought and most of us want health care.  And so we find that the living off the land begins with considering how we will generate personal income.  As a new and modern homesteader, you will get to (have to) create your own job description and set your own priorities with the goal of earning sufficient income to afford you the lifestyle you want off the land. In other words, your first step as a homesteader is, ironically, to think like an entrepreneur.
This essay is designed to help you to develop your own plan to do just that so that you can make the transition from traffic to tractor. While it was tempting to write a quick, one-page article about “how to make money as a homesteader”, it requires much more effort to do the concept justice.  Therefore, this essay will be organized as follows:

  • Part One includes this introduction and the steps you’ll need to take before you being homesteading to give yourself the best chance for success.
  • Part Two will provide ideas for Generating Income With Your Land
  • Part Three will focus on Using Your Skills to Make Money
  • Part Four will discuss ways to Generate Income With your Farmstead Products

Of course, while this essay is detailed and specific in many ways, it must be viewed as a starting point for each individual reader.  With so many specifics unique to each reader such as level of debt, skills, cash, health, knowledge and countless other factors, no article can inform a reader of exactly how to go about homesteading. Rather, the intent of this essay is to get each reader thinking about what they want, what they’re capable of and showing just some of what is possible so that they can develop their own plan.
The good news is this. There are tons of ways to generate dependable, steady income from homesteading! This essay will list dozens of them but that represents just the tip of the iceberg. Viewed all at once, it may seem overwhelming, dangerous and best to just stay put in the safety of your cubicle.  However, as Winston Churchill said, “The optimist sees opportunity in every danger; the pessimist sees danger in every opportunity.” And you, my prepared friend, are an optimist!
So, are you ready? Let’s get back to the land!

Part One – You’re Not Ready to Farmstead…Yet!
The ideal situation is that you’re thinking of becoming a homesteader but haven’t transitioned yet.  You may make the leap down the road…say, in a year or two, unless TEOTWAWKI forces your hand sooner! 
Here are the priorities and actions as I see them to help you to get ready to homestead.

  • Get Some Land.  I realize that sounds obvious. I mean, after all, it’s hard to really homestead without at least a little land.  You don’t need too much but you do need some.  If you’re one of the lucky ones who has inherited land, fantastic and congratulations!  But most of us have to find and buy our own land.  For a couple of reasons I believe the time to do that is now.  First, I believe that rural/farm land prices will only escalate over time as more and more food will need to be produced to feed a rapidly expanding global population.  Second, if you need to finance the land as many people do, interest rates are at absurdly (and artificially) low levels.  Getting land is an undertaking in and of itself though.  Consideration must be given to the region and climate since so much of homesteading depends on what Mother Nature decides to do. There is also that tiny problem of how to pay for land.  Consider making a trade. You may be able to find cheaper land in a more remote area that is equal to what you could sell your suburban home for.  If you are not already a homeowner, then your main focus will have to be how to save for land.  No matter what your situation, the next priority on the list is probably the most important.
  • Get Out of Debt. If you’re an American, you’re almost certainly in debt. Almost all of us are…the entire country is.  We use credit for mortgages, furniture, automobiles, appliances, school, health care, home improvement and, of course, for consolidating other debts we owe!  Our society seems to collectively embrace using debt to enjoy today what virtually none of us saved for yesterday. Whereas we once left college with degrees in hand and went straight to a waiting job, today we leave laden with tons of debt and, with no jobs waiting, leave to occupy city parks instead.  Debt becomes part of our life and few of us are ever able to jump off the treadmill that propels us to chase always more income to pay it off.  Of course if you’ve amassed a lot of debt it is easier said than done to get out of debt. It begins with a change in mindset.  Rather than dreaming of what we want in the moment and seeking immediate gratification, we must keep our focus on the ultimate goal of homesteading.  The best way to get there is to pay down the debt.  Make your homesteading dream so real that you can almost taste it and it will become easier to forgo the taste of that morning cafe latte because it means you are one dollar closer to your dream.  The purpose of this article is not to give debt management advice, but rather to underscore the importance of doing everything you can to eliminate the debt you have.  Society has conditioned us to believe we’re entitled to conveniences and luxuries, whereas the mentality of homesteading is about living on what we can produce and do ourselves and not borrowing. Get into the homestead mentality, now.  For every dollar that goes out ask yourself, do I need to spend this now or should this be saved? The less debt you have as a homesteader then the less income you’ll need to realize.  
  • What Do You Really Need? In the homesteader mentality you will likely find that you don’t have a lot of time or interest in those things that occupy so much of your mind-share (and wallet) as an urbanite.  This makes the transition easier once you’ve made it.  Urban life seems to require many non-essential expenses and distractions such as cable/satellite television, lattes, newspaper and magazine subscriptions, dining out, gym memberships, furniture, clothes, tobacco, alcohol, movies/sports/concerts, HOA fees, lodging/vacations, pet care, shiny appliances, repairs to shiny appliances, pest control, lawn services, water bills, and so on. You’ll find as a homesteader that you’ll incur very few of these expenses.  Take whatever steps you can to start practicing this now. Instead of missing television, homesteaders will become distracted by nature and the pleasures of growing their own food. You can too! While the Internet may be seen as a very real necessity for homesteaders, particularly given their isolation and need to connect with customers, that one expense can consolidate to give you access to most news, information and even free video programs on Hulu, YouTube, iTunes and elsewhere.  All of these expenses seem “necessary” to us as urbanites, but viewed through the lens of a homesteader they are quite unnecessary indeed. If you can’t cut the cord and do without them where you are now, TEOTWAWKI homesteading may be very trying for you.
  • Learn to Garden. Now! Regardless of which income producing paths you choose one thing is constant among all homesteaders; they ALL garden and grow at least some of their own food.  No matter where you are currently living you should be able to practice some gardening skills.  Learn to plan your garden, plant and germinate your own seeds indoors, transplant into small raised beds or container gardens, learn how to improve soil, how to identify and manage pests, study companion planting and square foot gardening if you are keen on a small parcel or raised beds if room allows and so on.  And you don’t just have to focus on your veggies.  Practice with small fruits such as strawberries, raspberries and even blueberries.  By the time you get to your ideal homestead you’ll be comforted by the hands-on gardening skills you have practiced and the knowledge you have gained through reading. 
  • Get in Shape. I don’t mean do more push ups, squats and more crunches. Sure, those are great if you’re trying to look good on club night but the cows and sows on the homestead won’t give you a second glance.  Farmsteading takes a toll on the body.  Your tasks could include bending and kneeling to weed and plant, hoisting 50 pound or more bags of feed and balancing them over a feeder, carrying crates of chickens, shoveling compost or wet snow, bending over cheese vats, lifting heavy wet trays of veggies out of the sink to prepare for the market and so on.  To make matters worse, if you get injured while on the job you’ll have no one to call to inform you can’t make it in that day, so you better get your body ready. How?  Focus on flexibility and tone.  To my way of thinking, this means yoga and pilates more than dumbbells and pull up bars.  It also means getting your weight down to the right target level for your age and height, so walking, hiking, swimming or climbing may help. Whatever it takes, get your body in farmstead shape!
  • Read – For millennia knowledge was passed from elders to juniors in social circles so that succeeding generations understood important food production, preservation and survival skills. Unfortunately, most of us missed out on that transfer of knowledge as our parents and grandparents instead were part of the convenience generation that food marketers cultivated.  So how do we regain those lost skills?  Start by reading as much as you can.  The problem is sifting through all the sources of information available such as books, blogs, articles and magazines.  Your study assignments go even beyond reading to watching movies, videos and listening to podcasts.  The choices are many and it can be hard to find exactly what you want, so I suggest finding topics that intrigue you and then learning everything you can.  Once you find something, get involved with a forum or group and start talking with your virtual buddies.
  • Find Like Minded Souls – Get off of Facebook and get onto sites such as SurvivalBlog.com or Farm-dreams.com that can give you practical knowledge and encouragement.  Seriously.  Find people who share your ideals and who are searching for the same answers.  Networking will get you there much faster and you eyes will be opened to new possibilities.  Talk to people who have taken a similar journey and ask them to share their story.  Find people who have learned the skills you are seeking and reach out to them.  Ask them for resources or see if they would be willing to let you watch a homestead activity the next time they do one, like making soap or collecting honey for instance!  And seek out and attend all of the free farm tours and events you can find.
  • Focus on Lasting Investments – There are many things you may want to acquire before becoming a homesteader that will help you once you’re on the land. There may also be items you want to trade in for something more practical.  For example, how about trading your shiny compact car for a good, solid used diesel truck that you can ultimately drive into the ground.  In addition to saving money when buying and insuring this truck, it will be useful for hauling animals, seed, feed, fertilizer, tools…you name it, and being an older model it will be easy for your rural friends to repair and keep running.  If there are any new items you are considering buying between the time you read this sentence and the time you move to the land, ask yourself this question: is this item essential to my homesteading dream?  If not, then you don’t need it.  If you can afford it then the choice is yours, but make sure it will be a lasting investment well worth the expense.  After all, homesteading is not about deprivation. But if you’re not sure how to afford living off the land then perhaps you should consider postponing any discretionary expenses until you figure it out.
  • How Much Do You Need? – Finally, you should calculate how much money you really need to make. And, while your first thought as you contemplate becoming a homesteader may be “how will I make money” remember this: Saving Money = Making Money!  By lowering your expenses and producing much of what you’ll consume when you homestead, you’ll find that you don’t need to make nearly as much as you think you do.  After all, how much of your current paycheck goes to food that you’ll produce on your own?  How much goes to nice clothes, dining out, fuel and simple luxuries that you’ll want to do without?

So there you have it, a few things to get you thinking before you put the shovel in the ground and start digging the homestead garden.  Let’s move on to Part Two.

Part Two – Making Money With Your Land
Let’s not think of living off the land, but rather “thriving” off the land.  You’ll probably be able to figure out how to produce your own food so that your health and nutrition thrives, but what about income?

Homesteading is all about multiple streams of income…the old “don’t put all your eggs in one basket” concept. There are almost countless opportunities for income generation but of course there is no one “right” answer given the differences in personal situations, markets, climates, inherent skills and so on.  What I will attempt to do for you is to categorize the three main income areas, and then break those categories down into specific ways you can sell something to earn money.

The three categories of earning money off the land are, 1) using your land to make money, 2) using your skills to make money and 3) selling products that come from your land and/or skills.  This section will focus on using your land to generate income.
Thinking Like a Homesteader
Before we get to the actual ways to make money it’s appropriate to spend a moment discussing mindset. As you contemplate each of the income generators in this and later sections, attempt to evaluate them from multiple perspectives.  For instance:

  • Is the income opportunity one-time, seasonal or continuous? Raising heritage turkeys can be fun but you’ll likely only get paid at Thanksgiving, whereas consumers buy pork year round.
  • Can the income opportunity be scaled (if there is a lot of demand can you expand to meet it) if you want to?
  • Can you overlap operational/income producing areas to increase efficiency? For example, If you raise a hog then you need either a large garden (scraps) or local cheese operation (whey) or brewery (spent grain) to make raising the hogs essentially free.
  • Does the income opportunity allow you to differentiate yourself or are there lots of people who can offer the same thing?
  • What are you good at now and can that be transferred to income opportunities on the homestead (accounting, writing, woodworking, etc.)?

Play the Big Stock Market
No, not the NYSE big board but the big time live(stock) market.  For most homesteaders this means cows, but could mean bison, water buffalo, large flocks of sheep and I’ll put pigs in there as well.  It goes without saying that you’ll need an adequate amount of pasture land to accommodate these voracious grazers and there are many benefits to raising them.  For example, if you were to purchase a young bull for $1,000 or so and five ready to breed heifers for the same price, you’d likely end up with 5 calves produced and fed for free (by their mothers and your pastures) each year for 12-15 years. 
What will you do with those calves?  Maybe sell them as stockers when they’re weaned, maybe raise grass fed beef, which we’ll discuss in part four.  However, to give you a sneak preview, if you did raise them as grass fed beef it’s quite likely that each calf would become worth about $1,500 each for you (net) in about 2 years if you can get them to urban markets. Clearly there’s a ramp-up period of a couple of years before this produces income for you, but starting in year 3 those 5 heifers will be throwing off about $7,500 per year in profit ($1,500 per calf x 5 per year).  If they do this for 10 years then your initial investment of $6,000 for the bull and heifers will return $75,000.
Of course you’ll have to consider any expenses you may have, such as hay when grass isn’t growing, vet bills if you plan to use vets and of course taxes on the land they graze, but the income will drastically exceed the expenses…IF…you can market the product successfully.
I would caution you to avoid exotic animals unless economic times are very good or are likely to be. In poor economic times people want basic foodstuffs and materials, and your attempt to market grass fed zebra may turn out harder than you anticipated. 
You can do similar calculations with other species such as pigs, bison and so on, but the point is this; putting the animals to work allows you to generate a stream of future income, improve your soil and create wealth.  The wealth is held not necessarily in fiat currency but in the value of your fertile soil and livestock.

Play the Penny Stock Market

I’m not talking about you becoming the Gordon Gekko of the pink sheets but rather raising rabbits, goats, chickens, turkeys, eggs, bees, and the like on a limited scale.  These species are much more common on the homestead than water buffalo and herds of grass fed cattle, and for good reason.  They’re smaller, easier to handle in small areas, diversified and in many cases you can even process (slaughter) them right on your farm or homestead and sell to consumers, which you cannot legally do with red meat (lamb, pork, beef).

No doubt that many if not most of these small livestock belong on every homestead, but keep in mind there’s a difference between you raising rabbits for your own table and you raising meat rabbits to generate income. Unlike the example with the cows, you’ll likely need to continually purchase feed for your rabbits (and especially chickens) and feed costs seem to perpetually escalate.  The amount of income you can generate may be rather limited for a farmer, but may easily help to sustain a homesteader.  For instance, if a doe produces 4 litters per year of 8 kits each, we’ll assume you may have 30 fryers to sell (losing two to mortality) each year at a weight of 3 pounds each.  If you could charge $6 per pound then each doe would generate $540 in sales of rabbit meat before backing out feed costs.  Alas, you’d better be prepared to butcher them yourself as your beef processor might be a bit perplexed if you hauled in a load of rabbits for slaughter.

Small stock could also include honeybees, which may be particularly attractive with all the concern about colony collapse disorder.  With bees you can sell nucs, full hives, 2 or 3 pound bags of bees or just queens.  For many commercial beekeepers, this is quite a lucrative endeavor!
Bottom line?  Small is beautiful, but smaller the livestock, the smaller the absolute income potential.

Farm Stays & Events
Agritourism is a growth area and I expect this to continue even if economic conditions remain soft.  It’s not just you who is being called to the land.  We are all becoming more aware of how disconnected we are from our natural world.  Can you not imagine a soon to be married couple wanting to have their wedding overlooking your beautiful pastures, ponds and happy animals?  I can, and they’ll pay well for it because competitive alternatives also charge good money for the service.  But ask yourself if this is a one-time, seasonal or continuous opportunity?  Likely seasonal at best depending on how well you market it, but getting back to re-purposing all your investments and efforts, you could use the same facilities for corporate retreats and other events.
What about a farmstay bed and breakfast in your home or in a refurbished barn?  Sounds quaint, romantic and what a lot of people would be in the mood for.  And it doesn’t have to be a normal house. It could be a yurt, tipi or the wall tents that they do at MaryJane’s Farm bed and breakfast, for $240 per night.
If you don’t want guests staying over night then you could consider farm dinners. These outings normally feature local chefs and offer the advantage of introducing paying customers to other products or services you have available.
Variations  – A hunting preserve, guided hunting/fishing excursions, RV/tent farm camping, summer youth farm camps, pond fishing, corn mazes, haunted woods…

Skills Classes
This is a variation of the above but the emphasis is on teaching skills to consumers.  What kind of skills?  How about cheese making, butchering classes, hide tanning and earth skills, foraging, soap making…you name it. Butchering classes can run the gamut from this $50 hog butchering class on a Wisconsin farm all the way to Fleisher’s $10,000 Level 3 butchering class that takes 6-8 weeks!
This seems to be an area that many homesteaders and farms ignore. Perhaps they don’t feel they have the patience or demeanor to meet the consumer expectations.  If you’re comfortable with students or people in general then I encourage you to consider offering skills classes. It will do far more than generate seasonal or continual income for you; it will forge a bond with many of your visitors that will motivate them to become loyal supporters of your farmstead.

Become a Grower
This is one reason why you want to become a homesteader, right?  To put your hands in fluffy soil, tug gorgeous carrots right out of the ground, cut fresh flowers that you planted, snip asparagus in early April…  If these iconic images of homesteading inspire you then it’s reasonable to expect consumers will want the same.  Retreating to our earlier discussion of one-time, seasonal or continual income opportunities, “growing” is one income area that can absolutely be as year-round as you want it to be.   And, unlike farm stays or classes, eating is not normally viewed as a discretionary expense. After all, people gotta eat.  In a TEOTWAWKI world, focus on the essential organic foodstuffs!
There are lots of great books on growing including several by Elliot Coleman that I’d recommend.  Just remember that if you’re new to gardening and if you’re garden plot is new, you should expect it to take at least 3-5 years before your soil tilth and fertility catches up with your expectations of light and fluffy soil.
Variations – Mushroom cultivation, live plants, greenhouse transplants, heirloom seeds…

Hays Sales and Grazing
If you find yourself with some decent pasture acreage you can use it in many ways to create a “cash crop”: grazing or selling organic hay.

Custom grazing is a contractual arrangement where you provide the pastures, fencing, water and grazing management for others who place their animals on your land.  You can charge either by the day, by the pounds gained or both.  If you’re short on cash but long on time and enthusiasm this may be a good option for you.

Let’s say you had 40 acres and you wanted to improve the fertility anyway.  You may strike a deal to graze 40 cows, stockers or cow/calf pairs and someone else would provide the animals that you wouldn’t have to pay for. Be careful if you take in bulls as they’ll eat 50% more, on average, than cows so you’re stocking rates (and prices you charge) need to reflect this. 

In a stocking scenario you may have 40 weaned calves that are dropped off in April that you graze until October. Let’s assume they arrive weighing 550 pounds each and your pastures could allow them to gain 2 pounds per day on average for 180 days.  By the end of October each stocker would weigh 910 pounds, having gained 360 pounds (180 days x 2/lb/day). In total you would have added 14,400 pounds of beef (180 days X 2/lb/day X 40 head).  If you charged a rate of $.60 per pound of gain then your income for the six month grazing contract would be $8,640.  Rates vary of course and you could charge much more in drought/dry areas than you could in lush areas, but then again you’d achieve more weight gain in lush areas than you would in dry.  Then again, you don’t even need to own land to custom graze for others. You can lease it as Greg Judy explains here if you have a smaller homestead and don’t have the room yourself.

Another alternative for some income is to simply produce organic hay, either for the grass-fed beef or horse quality market.  Organic doesn’t just mean letting your pastures go…it means having quality forages that are non-GMO and are managed organically with no chemicals at all.  You’ll get more per ton for square bales than round, but those in the cattle market will very likely not want to fool with square bales, so you should choose your market first.  If you don’t own hay equipment then you can hire out the job, but this is often challenging since all hay tends to come in around the same time and those with hay equipment are in pretty good demand during those times.

Variations: Blending tree plantings into grazing areas for a silvopasture, thereby generating both current and long-term income from timber

Breed and Board
Do you love animals and want to become a breeder?  There are many ways you can do this on your homestead.  Of course you can use the large or small livestock mentioned above and become a breeder of rabbits, sheep, goats, pigs, cows or any combination.  There’s always ads in Craigslist and in local ag publications for these and many people looking to buy weaned piglets, 4H rabbits and calves, and so on.
Another idea is to breed and train livestock handling or guardian dogs, such as shepherds or collies to herd sheep and cows or great Pyrenees to protect livestock. I expect both of these to be in constant demand as more and more preppers and homesteaders emerge and need proven genetics to help with their animals.
If you love horses and your new homestead has a barn of sorts, offering boarding and grazing for horses may be just the thing for you.  You may be able to charge $150-250 per month or trade in value for full 24/7 pasture turn out…the more you can offer the more you can charge but of course rates vary from region to region. It’s yet another way you can generate income from a homestead parcel that you couldn’t from a city apartment. 

Basic Materials

Finally, you’re sitting on a gold mine of sorts with your new piece of land.  You’ll likely have some woods that could offer rough timber, firewood and pine straw among other things.  If you’re handy with a chain saw or if you want to invest a few thousand dollars in a portable saw mill, you could be producing lots of custom cut lumber in no time.
Understandably, many people look upon all the rocks on their land disapprovingly, but perhaps those rocks and boulders could become landscape rocks for someone else?  Although this falls more into the category of one-time income streams than continual income, it could be a good way to clean up your land while beautifying another person’s property at the same time!

While some of these ideas touch on product offerings, the above represents just some of the ways you can use your land to generate income.  Some techniques are quite passive and very long term (silvopasture) while others are very labor intensive and offer immediate income gratification (transplants).  Of course there are more ideas and perhaps you’ll share some below, but this is enough to get you thinking. 
If you know how much money you need to make, how much capital you’re comfortable risking and, most importantly, what you are passionate about, then I’m sure you’ll find some ideas that sound right to you.  But I’ll repeat something I said in the first post to be sure it sinks in: Saving Money = Making Money!
To a homesteader’s way of thinking you not only save money and therefore need to earn less (and therefore pay less in taxes) by producing so much yourself, you also lock in prices and create a personal buffer from inflation.  Milk prices may go through the roof for everyone else, but yours will always be the same.

Part Three – Making Money With Your Skills

Regardless of who you are, I’m confident in assuming one thing about you; you have at least one or more skills.  Everyone does.  And your roster of skills and capabilities will only expand when you move to the homestead as you learn all sorts of new gardening, farming, mechanical, crafting and other talents that others need, and are willing to pay for.  The trick for you will be to market those skills into income generating assignments that will allow you to comfortably live your dream life off the land.
Hopefully part two of this four-part series gave you ideas to think about how your land could work to generate income for you, and tomorrow’s part four will give you numerous ideas for products you can sell. This third portion of the series will be a rapid fire listing of money making ideas that bridge the gap between your current/future skills and market opportunities.
In this section we’ll focus on skills and services that you can sell from your homestead and I’ll divide the list into two macro categories. The first will be physical skills that you can perform for your local community.  You need to be in close proximity to make money with the ideas on this list.  The second will be virtual/online skills you can easily sell to anyone around the world and collect money via PayPal, check or wire-transfer.  As always, these ideas just scratch the surface so please share your ideas and comments. If you’re interested in some of these ideas but don’t have the skills yet, just remember that it’s not too late. You’ll be learning lots of new skills as a homesteader.   Get the knowledge and training you need and start earning income with it.
Ready?  Let’s begin!

Physical/Local Services to Make Money as a Homesteader


General Services
– There are lots of “general” needs that many folks in rural areas need.  By the way, just because you’re moving “out there” to become more self-sufficient doesn’t mean that the people already there think that way. You may be surprised to learn that they value the convenience of grocery stores and having hired help to do things for them.  What kind of things?  Fence installation and repair, automatic gate installation and repair, painting, household repair and so on.  If you’re interested in or handy with any of these then put the word out by printing a business card and pinning it at the local feed store and elsewhere where people congregate.

Tractor Work
– One way to really justify (or rationalize) the purchase of a tractor and implements is to use it not only for your property, but to hire it out for local projects.  The jobs you can hire it for depend on the features of the tractor (does it have a front-end loader, for example) and the attachments you have. Depending on what you have you could earn good money by cutting/baling hay, mowing large fields, disking, tilling, seeding/planting, maintaining long gravel driveways, bush hogging, moving piles of dirt/gravel/debris, snow plowing, and more. Advertise yourself.

Gardening Work
– You’ll become expert at organic gardening and growing food in no time, and you’ll likely become the best in your area as others are happy to let the grocery chains feed them or, if they have their own garden, rely on chemical controls.   I expect that more and more people will become interested in organic methods of growing food and you can avail from this trend by “marketing” your expertise to others.  What can you do?  Teach them how to install raised beds or drip irrigation lines, how to build soil with manure/leaves/grass clippings, how to garden without tilling, how to schedule successive plantings and winter gardens, protecting plants from frost, how to set up compost bins, how to capture rain water for the garden, how to companion plant or how to trap plant for pests, etc.  Get the idea?  There’s lots you’ll be learning that others won’t know but will want to know.  Yes my dear reader, you can become THE Plant Whisperer!

RV Repair
– Repairing recreational vehicles isn’t necessarily difficult, but it is specialized. Given the concerns about the economy, jobs and so on, it’s reasonable that there will be more and more people taking economical RV getaways or simply living in their RV’s.  This means more and more will need repairs and, let’s face it, how many RV repair people do you see on the side of the road?  It’s an opportunity to specialize and become “the” RV repair person for your area.

Mechanic
– If you are good at mechanical repair then you’ll be in need.  It’s always hard to find a good mechanic.  If you are also good at small engine repair and farm equipment repair (tractors, RVs) then you’ll be even more in demand.

Welding
– Many people in rural areas know how to weld but most do it for themselves or their farm.  The opportunity is there to offer welding and small fabrication for hire, if you have the skill.

Sheep Shearing
– If you have sheep on your homestead you could shear them yourself and then hire this service out to others.  Most sheep owners don’t shear themselves and it’s always hard to find someone local who does.

AI
– Artificial insemination (AI).  With more and more homesteaders and small farmers starting up with smaller herds of animals, many don’t want the danger or cost of having bulls, boars and rams on their property.  Or perhaps they simply want to add genetic diversity to their herd by using AI.  Either way, if you learn this skill and make the modest investments in equipment, then you will be in demand for sure.

Boarding
– I mentioned how boarding could be an offering that your land could enable, but you could expand this if you’re skilled with horses by offering riding lessons and horse training.  There are horse people in every neck of the woods, so you’d likely find a waiting clientele.

Get Sharp!
– Perhaps you could become expert as sharpening knives, chainsaws and tools.  You’ll likely need this for yourself anyway so why not make some extra bucks by offering it to others?

Equipment Operator
– Perhaps you don’t have the equipment to hire out but you know how to operate a tractor, bobcat, bulldozer, track loader, excavator, ditch witch, backhoe or the like. There’s always a need for this in the country.

Carpentry
– If you like to build then you’re in luck as this is a skill that most people either don’t have, or don’t have time for.  From repairing buildings to constructing sheds, additions, barns and so on, you’ll probably find more work than you can handle as fewer new homes are built and more repairs/add-ons are in demand.  And, to broaden your offering even more money, learn and then teach cob building techniques!

Electrician, Plumber
– Not much I can add to this. If you can do these, people will need them, especially if you develop skills with alternative energy and plumbing techniques!

Hauling Animals– You may have a truck and purchased a livestock trailer when you moved to the country. Guess what, not everyone has one.  Let locals know that you can haul livestock for them or post your skill on Craigslist.

Photography
– With fancy new phones anyone can take a picture.  However, only skilled photographers can compose and create an emotive work of art worthy of celebration…and compensation. If this is a talent of yours then you’ll have a unique income stream.

Workshops
– I’ll probably include workshops and classes both as a skill and a product, but with your new skills why not offer mobile city/suburban workshops on creating raised bed gardens, chicken and rabbit tractors, etc.  If the money is back in suburbia, go get it and bring it home!

Computer Repair
– Are you good with computers and Internet issues?  Many people, if not most, are not.  If people know you’re around and that you’re good with eradicating viruses, freeing up memory, recovering files, providing Internet access alternatives and the like, then you’re in luck…and in demand!

House Cleaning
– Yea, you know what this means. Just clean your own house first! 🙂

Meat Processing
– Now, you can’t do this as an inspected processor unless you want to go through the red tape process, but since you’ll likely learn how to skin rabbits, eviscerate chickens and maybe even slaughter sheep and goats, you could offer this as a service for others who want to butcher their own animals. Just be very careful how you position this; you are selling only your knowledge and service and in no way are you selling meat, since the animals already belong to the customer.

Bridge the Gap
– Some farmers struggle with marketing and distribution but perhaps that’s an area you’re good at.  Consider becoming a distributor for local farmers and getting their products to retailers, restaurants, resorts and other stores.  It will be good for the producer, good for the buyer, good for the local community and you won’t have to produce anything yourself!

Online/Virtual Services to Make Money as a Homesteader

Broker Deals – Basically buy something for $.25 and sell for $5.  How?  Farm auctions have lots of valuable and often new items that can go for very little money.  If you can create a market for it via Craigslist, eBay, Facebook or your own community contacts, here’s your chance.  My advice is to consider useful items that are harder to find and are easy to ship.   A wood stove may be cheap but you’ll need to sell it locally which will limit your market reach. [JWR Adds: I recommend gathering references on collectibles. See our Bookshelf page for some coin, gun and antique book links. Study and then bring those reference books with you when you go on farm auction trips. If you become a subject matter expert, then you can turn that into a money-making venture. Many people make a good living as “pickers”. (See the television shows “American Pickers” and “Antiques Roadshow“, for some examples of collectible items that are sought after.] I concur about only buying only small and lightweight collectibles that can be mailed.]

Consulting – What do you do today?  Is it something in business, academia, law, medicine, technology, etc. that you could offer as a distant consulting service?  Can you package it into an online or remote training offering?  Perhaps you’re an accountant and setting up and managing Quickbooks is easy for you, but challenging for folks around you. Or maybe you’re a business hot shot with expertise in logistics, marketing, human resources or strategic planning.  With all those skills I bet you can figure out how to offer business coaching, life coaching or consulting online.

Making Money Online
– As I said, I don’t know you or what specific skills you have. That said, there are lots of ways to make money online using skills you probably already have. I don’t want to define each of these here, so let me just list a few ideas for you to think about or research:

  • Copy editing
  • Free-lance and content writing of e-books, articles, blog post, press releases, product reviews, proof reading, forum posts…
  • Illustrating for authors, web designers, etc.
  • Become a Virtual Assistant (VA)
  • Offer research assistance to authors, editors and writers
  • Web or graphic design
  • Web security consulting
  • Voice-overs or record your own ad-supported podcast
  • Language translation

Note: Not sure how to find these opportunities or how to market yourself?  Try eLance, Guru, SideskillsFreelance Jobs or iFreelance.  You’ll probably be surprised how many opportunities there are. Just be sure to specialize and differentiate yourself, otherwise you’ll likely get lost among the other freelancers.

Authoring
– Authors such as James Rawles, Wendell Berry, Gene Logsdon and Joel Salatin have been able to make a living off the land with publishing being a primary source of income. Could you be the next one?  Why not!  If you have good writing skills and can identify the right topic for right audience, it’s easier than ever to get published and, more importantly, distributed with print on demand (POD) offerings from Createspace by Amazon, Lightning SourceDog Ear and others.  Just take a page out of Salatin’s and Rawles’ book and remember the importance of “branding” yourself and your expertise.  If you create a following as they have, followers will eagerly await your next book and you’ll be on your way to a passive income stream.
There you have it, just a sampling of ways that you can use your skills to get money from the farm fairy, often very good money, while living your dream life off the land.  For modern homesteaders the Internet creates a global market and, unlike with physical products, it doesn’t matter where you are geographically located if you’re offering virtual/online/writing services.

Part Four – Making Money Selling Farm and Homestead Products


Farmstead Meats
– Organic, grass fed, sustainably raised, pastured, heritage…what have you, there is a growing market of consumers looking to connect with and support farmers who are tending the earth ethically.  These consumers are just as anxious to support the local community as they are to tell Monsanto and concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) to take a flying leap. 

When selling meats directly from the farm you’ll have lots of choices to navigate. The first choice may be if you want to sell bulk (whole/half/quarter) animal or small retail packages.  If you sell bulk then you can avoid the hassles of becoming licensed to store packaged meats in your farm freezers by technically selling a “live” animal to the consumer. You then deliver the animal to the processor and the consumer determines how they want the animal butchered, pays the processor directly and picks up their cuts.  The consumer saves money or a per pound basis and you save headaches.
Alternatively, you can sell individual packaged cuts such as roasts, ground beef, pork chops, rack of lamb and so on to consumers.  This requires you to have meats processed by a state or USDA inspected facility and you’ll have to follow regulations for storing and transporting your labeled products.  The regulations aren’t that burdensome in most places, but the costs for freezers, utilities and transportation must be considered. Of course, when you sell this way you offer products to a much larger market. After all, there’s more people able to buy a pack of ground beef than there are those interested in half a cow!
Other options for selling meats are wholesale, retail and restaurants.  The above options that sell directly to customers constitute direct marketing. You’ll get the highest price selling that way for sure, but you’ll also expend the most effort and need the most marketing savvy…for sure.  Selling to wholesalers or distributors could put your products on retail shelves and it takes time and effort to set up these relationships (you can also sell your other farm products ((below)) this way).  Many farmsteaders want to sell to restaurants and for good reason. If you’re near the right markets there are many fine chefs who value delicious and local ingredients, and you want to sell to people who value what you produce.  Some chefs want smaller portions and packaged cuts that you are selling directly to customers.  If that’s the case you probably won’t have much room to discount prices unless the chefs commit to larger bulk quantities or weekly deliveries since your costs won’t be any lower.
Of course a lot more could be said on this topic but the point of this essay is to give you ideas and to get you thinking of what works for you.  For many farmsteaders, selling farm raised meats will be the heart of their income generating engine.
Variations – In many states you may be able to process poultry (which includes rabbit) on your farm and not use an inspected processor by using a P.L. 90-492 exemption. Read carefully and check with your state regulators before proceeding.

Farm Fresh Milk
– Admit it…the phrase kind of conjures the image of the old milk truck, glass bottles being dropped on your doorstep and old fashioned wholesomeness. Consumers today have become so disconnected with their food that many don’t even realize that they’re drinking ultra-pasteurized “formerly” milk until they read an article about it or hear mentioned on the news. When many do they go looking for real milk, usually raw, from a local farmer.  And they’re willing to pay anywhere from $6 – $12 per gallon for it depending on where they are in the country and if the cow was fed grain (least expensive) or if it was purely grass fed (most expensive).  Be sure to operate within the implicit and explicit laws of your state.  Also check out the Weston A. Price campaign for real milk and if you decide to sell milk, list yourself there.
Variation – butter, buttermilk, yogurt, etc. if you want to pasteurize. [JWR Adds: Be sure to check all the legalities first, particularly at the State level.]

Farmstead or Artisanal Cheese
– If you’re milking cows, sheep or goats anyway, why not turn the milk into delicious farmstead cheese?  Farmstead cheese is cheese that you produce from the milk of YOUR animals, where as artisanal cheese is cheese that you produce from milk that you buy from another dairy.  Either way, you’ll need a state approved and inspected cheese operation and anywhere from a modest investment (several thousand dollars) to a major investment (over $100,000) to set up your make room, ripening room, cheese cave, equipment and so on.  There’s no denying that it takes an investment to become a cheese maker, particularly a farmstead cheese maker where you have to invest in animals and milking facilities, but for many the lifestyle and payoff is undeniably alluring.

Farm Fresh Eggs
– If you raise your hens on pasture then you’ll be producing the most beautiful and nutritious eggs available anywhere.  Just check out the chart to the right.  And keep in mind that not all egg varieties are the same.  Many consumers will pay much more for duck eggs than chicken eggs, and you can also sell hatching eggs (turkey, geese, ducks, chicken, guinea, etc.) instead of eating eggs.

Vegetables and Herbs
– There’s not much limit to what you can grow for consumers and restaurants.  Warm and cool season vegetables, fresh flowers, herbs, you name it. You’ll have the same choices to make regarding selling (direct, restaurants, retail, wholesale) as you do with meats but there’s one big difference. Whereas meats can be stored frozen for months the value in vegetables is to be sold fresh, often the day they’re harvested.  So you’ll want to line up your customers first either by having a solid relationship with restaurants or by operating a CSA for individual customers.

Fruits
– Strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, peaches, apples, figs, melons…get the idea?  Almost everyone has a sweet tooth and these can be harvested, sold and delivered directly to farmers markets, restaurants or consumers, or you can offer pick-your-own options.

Sweeteners
– Maple syrup, honey and sorghum syrup all come to mind. With concerns about allergies I would expect a continued rise in the demand for local honey.  All you need is to make or buy some bee boxes, get a bag of bees and a queen or a nuc and let them pollinate your garden. Then you’re on your way to the sweet life!

Craft Supplies
– You’ll likely find countless supplies on your farmstead that can be marketed and sold to crafters, such as rabbit pelts, turkey and peacock feathers, wood cuttings, wool and more.  Take a look on eBay to see what’s selling and then see what you have.

Jewelry
– Rather than selling craft supplies from the farm why not make your own jewelry!  Think of using feathers from peacocks, turkeys, guineas or geese. Or, perhaps you have a large deer population and you’ll find lots of shed antlers in late winter. These and more can be used to make unique (one-of-a-kind) pieces of jewelry. [JWR Adds: The Etsy web site is a good place to retail your wares online.]
Variation – Instead of jewelry, make rustic woodworking gifts from your downed trees.  Think of tables, willow furniture, log furniture, kitchen utensils…whatever you can dream up..

Wine and Beer
– Due to stringent regulations you may not want to produce wine and beer, but what about becoming an accomplice?  Could you grow local hops for the beer market or grapes for local wineries using your land? I bet you could and that few people are!

Value-Added Products
– I won’t attempt to count all the ways you could add value to products that you could produce on the farm, and most would require some regulatory approval.  But imagine farm fresh baby food, dog treats, lard, jams, salsa, grains, cured meats, pickles, sauerkraut…the list goes on.  Don’t be afraid of seeking regulatory approval as it’s not as hard as you think. Just call the health department or your state department of agriculture and find out what you need to do to comply.  Others do it and so can you.

Mushrooms
– Cultivate mushrooms for consumers or restaurants and if you live among chanterelles, morels, etc., learn to hunt and sell these delicacies at farmers markets and to restaurants!

Photography
– I mentioned photography yesterday as a skill and it certainly is that, but your rare breed animals and quaint rural landscape offer you unique resources to create poetic imagery.  You could add value by printing and creating frames from your woodlot and selling through various resorts and stores in your state, or license use of your high-resolution images through various providers.

Make Custom Knives, Tools
– Necessity is the mother of all invention, they say, and farmers are an inventive group.  Perhaps you’ll come up with tools you need to tend your garden such as the wheel hoe to the right. Or you could offer plans on how to build them yourself like the the folks at WhizBang
Perhaps you know how or want to learn to make knives from rustic materials such as spent saw blades, antlers, wood, etc.  It’s not too late and it would be unique and functional.

Building Chicken/Rabbit Tractors
– When folks, particularly urban folks, see your fancy chicken coops and tractors they’ll likely want one of their own. They won’t have the time or skill to make it, but they’ll have the money to buy it. Market directly to them through local organics associations, conferences, publications and online groups.

Manure
– Put your marketing hat on now. You’re not selling a load of smelly waste, you’re selling organic fertility! Better yet, nutrients!  From worm castings to rabbit pellets and, yes, horse manure, you’re selling what everyone needs for healthy plants and topsoil. Variation: Compost

Artisan Meat Products
– You don’t see many people doing this because, as with cheese making, there is skill, investment and regulatory compliance required. And therein lies the opportunity!  Imagine making pancetta, pepperoni, saucisson sec, salami or Iberico style long-aged cured ham from your rare-breed pigs that consumed acorns and whey.  Know anyone else in your state doing this?  In your entire region? Is that sausage I smell or is it opportunity?

Tractor Dealer, Feed Dealer
– Perhaps you’d like to sell a small amount of farm equipment or feed in your area.  If it’s under-serviced then you’ll find opportunities to do so. This will be especially true with feed as you’ll likely find organic feeds, fertilizers and nutritional stuffs hard to come by unless you have them shipped in. Is it possible that others can’t find these as well and you could become the supplier?

Homemade Lotions, Soaps, Candles
– You’ll no doubt learn to make all of these things anyway for your homestead. If you have the raw materials, such as lard, goat milk, etc., then you may want to make artisan soaps for customers.  You can sell to local markets or sell online. There may even be more of an opportunity with making lotions, shampoos and creams that are all natural and free of chemicals.

Sewing/Knitting
– You could sell supplies such as wool or yarn, or you could add value by sewing bags, aprons, cloth diapers and more.

Hopefully some of these ideas got you thinking about how you can sell products and make a good living off your farm or homestead, but I bet you know of even more ways!  Many of the products and skills I’ve discussed are small scale and tug more at the homesteader’s heart. Some, such as retail meats, cured meats and commercial cheese making speak more to those interested in farming as a business.  What’s right for you?  It depends greatly on how you answer the questions in part one of this essay, namely how much money do you need to make.  But also how ambitious you are and how much energy you have.  Those are issues for you to ponder. 

One thing is certain; there are lots of ways to earn income from your farm or homestead. I don’t know about you, but I take a lot of comfort in that.

People who are new to farmsteading or entrepreneurial life in general are often nervous, if not downright scared, about the prospects of not having a comfortable and secure paycheck coming in each week.  What I will say is that when you do make that transition and learn how to generate income for yourself that you will never again worry about whether you may get laid off, how your employer is doing or if you’ll have money in retirement.  You’ll make the life that you want for yourself and no one will be there to deny you the pay raise, if you want it, or more time off, if you want that, although getting both would be the ultimate triumph!
TEOTWAWKI will be present a scary new reality for most people. But you can begin to position yourself now to not only thrive financially in a TEOTWAWKI world but to help others to adapt and enjoy their new world.



Preparing for Inclement Weather, by Russ X.

I am not trying to offend anyone or represent myself as an expert. I know there are many preppers on this forum that will see none of what I am writing here as new. However, some people may need this information or have not thought of it. As for me a lot of this was learned over 13 years in the active Army and seven years as a policeman. I was placed working and living in some of the most inhospitable weather situations someone could find themselves in. Enough of my ranting and I will get to the point.

As I was finishing my final preparing for winter and watching the news about the storm hitting the plains states I realized that I should call my family to make sure they were ready for bad weather. This caused me to get a migraine real quick. Then I thought that I should put this all in writing so I could send it to them every winter and make my life easier. With that I figured why not share this information to everyone who reads this forum.

The first thing you should consider is weatherproofing your winter gear and camping gear just in case you actually need it. For my Goretex jackets (Yes even Goretex gets soaked thru eventually) and my canvas work jackets I waterproof them using Camp Dry (you can use any commercial waterproofing spray but I prefer this one). I recommend doing this outside if possible due to the fumes or in a well-ventilated area. It can also contaminate the area where you are working, due to silicone overspray. Also test the fabric of what you are about to weatherproof to make sure it doesn’t stain or ruin it. If you decided to use this product or others inside put something on the floor under the work area to protect it from staining.

For Bivvy Sacks for sleeping bags also use a product like Camp Dry to keep your sleeping bag dry. Also use a seam sealing product to make sure the seams are extra protected. You don’t want water just pouring in at the material seem and causing you to get soaked. Now I know they say the seams are already sealed, but do you trust them with your warmth and safety?

Now on to the topic of weatherproofing your boots. If they are leather boots use a product like Snow Seal and liberally coat the boots and then put them in the oven at 180 degrees for 1 hour (yes I said oven, by doing this you open the pores of the leather and allow it to absorb the Snow Seal. If your boots are made of something other than leather, then use Camp Dry, of course test the boots first to make sure it doesn’t ruin them. Wet feet can make you miserable real quick along with being a deciding factor in if you survive or not. Now to socks, cotton socks are evil! They will cause you to lose toes or worse. The reason for this is cotton doesn’t wick moisture away from the skin very well, but it is great at wicking away the heat from your feet causing your feet to stay cold and end up freezing. So get wool socks or advanced fabric socks as they are the best choice. They wick moisture away from the skin and will still keep your feet warm even when wet.  Always remember warm feet are happy feet and will help you survive.

Now your vehicle as you will most likely depend on this greatly in bad weather. Make sure your headlights are working properly and are bright after a few years they start to get dim and should be replaced. Also if you have the type of headlights that have a clear plastic cover you will probably notice that they are milky white. You need to fix this with a commercially available headlight polishing kit and follow the directions. I found one at a local auto parts store for fewer than thirty dollars. It made my headlights like new.

Windshield wipers should be in good working order and of a good quality that won’t clog with ice and stop working properly. If they are bad replace them before you need them. Not seeing and driving are not a good combination, with that also make sure that you have a winter grade windshield wash as if it freezes up then it won’t help you.
Next is your battery and alternator, the two things that almost always fail when bad weather hits. Go to an auto parts store and have them put the tester on them to make sure they are okay. This will go a long way in easing worries about your vehicle not starting when you need it most.

As for vehicle maintenance not only does your oil need to be changed regularly but so does your antifreeze, power steering fluid, brake fluid, transmission fluid, differential and transfer case oil if you have them. With these an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Now to your emergency kit for the car, in this should be a minimum of jumper cables (not everyone has them, but every care has a battery so if you have them you can get a jump), a set of work gloves (for changing tires and such) a knit cap or some other winter headgear, warm gloves, blanket’s, a few common tools (to tighten battery cables and such), emergency markers (I prefer flares and strobe lights over reflectors, as reflectors require headlights to hit them to be seen). Also having a days’ worth of food and water in the vehicle is nice in case you get stranded in your car. You can get emergency food rations and water from most survival or prepping web sites.  Having sand for traction and a compact shovel to dig out is a must also. You can also make traction ramps buy cutting heavy grate material about the width of 1 ½ the size of your tires and 3 feet long. Using this can also help you or someone else get unstuck in snow. Tire chains or snow tires are a must and if your tread is getting to the point of being only ¼ an inch deep get new tires. I know this seems a lot for your vehicle but when the worst case scenario that you never thought would happen to you does happen you will be better off for it. I know there is more for this topic but this is a good start. I also add my bug-out kit to my vehicle every time I get in it to drive. Also my bug-out kit and vehicle kit are one and the same. It makes it larger and heavier, but then I am never in the situation of saying why did I leave that at home

Now for the house besides back-up heating, food, water, lighting and the normal prepping stuff for bugging in there are a few items to consider. On backup heating you have to be careful due to carbon monoxide poisoning. I use the Mr. Heater MH18B Portable “Big Buddy” Heater by Mr. Heater as it has an automatic low oxygen shutoff system and tip-over safety shutoff.  If you don’t have something that senses when the oxygen is low or is made for indoor use then you need to have someone stay up preferably in shifts to watch the heater along with making sure there is enough ventilation in the room so there is not a build-up of Carbon Monoxide. This also goes for daytime heating and also for cooking. For lighting using low sulfur mineral instead of lamp oil in your oil lamps as it is cleaner and safer. Also it will keep you from having to repaint your house when everything is back to normal. This also goes for candles they will stain the pain in a house along with being a fire hazard. This is since we don’t run around using candles every day we will make mistakes that can and will be tragic. On that note with heating, cooking, and lighting you should have a couple a house-sized ABC fire extinguishers for emergencies.

You need one or two heavy tarps, parachute cord, and small sandbags so that you can put a temporary patch on your roof should a tree fall due to ice and snow and uses your house as a target. For windows having 2 inch wood screws, sheet plastic, and a couple of sheets of plywood to close up a broken window or door is a lifesaver. Also if you can precut the plywood for the windows it makes the repair a lot quicker.

A note on shoving snow, shoveling snow is considered heavy strenuous labor. It is also one of the leading causes of heart attacks in winter. So like any heavy workout take 15 minutes to warm up so your body realizes you are about to do something difficult. While working on removing the snow take many breaks. I normally only shovel snow for 15 minutes at a time then take a break so my heart rate can go back down. Also it may be cold but stay hydrated.

I hope everyone has a great winter, and hope that at least some of this information is helpful.



The Drug Seeker Threat in Disasters, by Dr. Bob

People in the general public have little to no idea just how bad the drug abuse of prescriptions medications is here in the US.  Our recent discussion with our church small group spurred us to write this review for your thoughtful review.  Some fun facts to start us off, courtesy of one of my reliable medical reference sites, UpToDate:
 
6.2 million Americans in 2008 admitted to non-medical use of prescription drugs, 2.5 % of the population.
The number of Americans who have abused prescription drugs exceeds those who have used cocaine, heroin, hallucinogens, ecstasy, and inhalants combined.
A 2005 survey of 50,000 US high school students found that while overall illicit drug use declined among adolescents over the prior decade, their non-medical use of prescription pain relievers and sedatives has increased.
Only marijuana use among illicit drugs (although becoming more “legal” everyday in some states) exceeds non-medical use of prescription drugs.
 
We start with those fun facts to shock you into reading further in addition to alerting you as to the depth and severity of the problem. WTSHTF, these 6 to 10 million seekers are going to be unhappy, withdrawing, and looking to score some pills.  They may be coming to your house, as 2.5% of the population is one out of 40 folks.  Most of us involved in primary care medicine would probably double that estimate, and in some areas of the country the rate will be much higher.  And this is just prescription medications, not to mention the illicit drug users that will become prescription seekers that will have to “make do” with pain pills or tranquilizers as a substitute for the drug that they are going without.
 
In our current, happy, open-pharmacy world, there are some risk factors that can identify those more likely to be abusing prescription medications, but there are many more folks abusing those drugs that don’t fit the profile at all.  Those found to be at increased likelihood of abusing prescription drugs include:
• Past or current substance abuse or addiction
• Use of controlled substances in non-prescribed doses and routes of administration
• Use of controlled substances for reasons other than indications for which they were prescribed
• Patients of younger age
• Patients who work in health care settings
 
From observational experience, drug abuse of prescription medications has certainly been on the rise since my initial start in the medical field 17 years ago.  It is one of the heartbreaking aspects of our day to day existence.  Almost every day in the clinics, urgent care facilities and ERs, all doctors and health professionals must deal with multiple drug seekers trying to get them to prescribe them a little “somethin’ somethin”.  These are first or second hand, real life excuses or behaviors that drug seekers have used in the ERs, Urgent Cares, and clinics to try to obtain drugs:
 
Death of a generic loved one (when they are not dead, Grandfathers the most common)
Death of a wife (usually a living wife, ex-wife, or common-law has no knowledge of their death)
Death of a child (particularly tough to resist urge to punch seeker in face, but hasn’t happened…yet)
Sexual assault
Domestic violence
Pricking finger with needle to put blood in urine sample (makes it look like kidney stone)
Using child’s pain to obtain meds (again, resolve fading…fist rising…must not punch)
Stealing dying relatives’ medications (Hospice patients, cancer patients especially.  One took the narcotic patch right off the dying relative for himself.)
 
These are just some of the more heinous examples above, the classic excuses are always still worth mentioning:  dog ate them, fell in toilet, fell in sink, fell in some wet area, fell in some dirty area, washed in the laundry, pharmacist is against me, wife/girlfriend/neighbor/mailman/etc is against me, lost it, was stolen, took too many because it wasn’t working, took too many because you are a terrible doctor and didn’t give me the medicine that works, another terrible doctor wouldn’t fill it because they are horrible and you are the greatest ever.  All of these are from personal examples.  All were confirmed to be fabrications.  90+ percent of these excuses are false, every time.  This is why it gets to be so heartbreaking.  It really takes your faith in humanity and grinds it up into bits.  And it’s getting worse.  Just yesterday from my writing of this, a gentleman told me that “it is your duty as a doctor to help people” when he was lying about his medication abuse.  They know the lines, and they use them.  It didn’t work by the way.
 
So, what to do in TEOTWAWKI.  Avoid.  Plain and simple.  Anyone on controlled substance meds should be weaned off immediately if they are in your group.  Off.  We will all have to figure out a way to live without them then, no time like the present.  Do NOT have any controlled substance medications in your possession.  If Ibuprofen and Acetaminophen don’t take the pain down, it will probably make you stronger.  Seriously, that is our advice.  The risk does not exceed the benefit in regard to these meds.  We don’t take them, we don’t have them…so why would we stock them?  Ask yourself the same question.
 
Okay, how do you spot the withdrawing seeker in a post-pharmacy world?  Withdrawal symptoms for the different medications are worth mentioning by category.  First, the pain medications.  Opiate withdrawal has the following classic symptoms:  in the hours after the last dose will come drug craving, anxiety, fear of withdrawal.  Then in a day to days will be:  anxiety, restlessness, insomnia, yawning, runny nose, watery eyes, sweating, stomach cramps, and small pupils.  In the days that follow to a week:  tremors, muscle spasms, vomiting, diarrhea, chills, goosebumps, and rapid heart beat.
 
Benzodiazepine withdrawal symptoms are similar, but different in some ways and timing:  rapid stopping of chronic benzo use can actually result in death.  Tremors, anxiety, hallucinations, negativity, psychosis and seizures can occur.  The scale and dependence of benzo use and abuse is truly staggering.  Many of these folks are your neighbors, relatives, and friends.  They have been taking Ativan, Xanax, Valium, Klonopin, Libruim, Tranxene, Restoril, Serax, ProSom, Dalmane, and Halcion for a long time now.  They are likely not abusing these drugs, but certainly are dependent and are not going to be happy and pleasant without these medications.  Anyone on more than 20 per month of these meds needs to wean down now and try to get off.  Again, Cognitive Behavioral Therapy (CBT) does work for people and is highly recommended.
 
Stimulant withdrawal, specifically cocaine and amphetamines, can show withdrawal symptoms in:  negativity, lack of pleasure in things, fatigue, sleepiness, vivid dreams, insomnia, agitation, anxiety, depression, suicidal thoughts and actions, drug craving, and hunger.  As a society, we also provide stimulants to people regularly for their ADD and ADHD diagnoses, and the symptoms of withdrawal will be very similar to those of the illicit stimulants above.  These stimulant-withdrawal symptoms usually peak by two days and then decrease within two weeks, but can be the most dramatic and therefore dangerous when loosed near you and yours.
 
Many of these withdrawal symptoms will also be experienced by many “non-addicts” who are unprepared for a disaster.  Isolating yourselves for the first few weeks after any major disaster is certainly the best policy.  By 14 days, almost all types of acute drug withdrawal have ended physically.   Seekers will be dangerous in those first days, but remember that most seekers have up to a month of medication that they have available before they run out, some dealers could have much more than that.  The first two months all of us will be at risk to encounter and possibly be harmed by the drug seeker.  I can’t emphasize enough how far people who are addicts will go to try to obtain even a small amount of their drug of choice or any type of substitute.  Many of these people will rob, lie, con, steal and kill for drugs if given the chance, so continue your vigilance.  But most importantly, heed our sound advice: To reduce your risk,  do not keep these medication stored on your property.

JWR Adds: Dr. Bob is is one of the few consulting physicians in the U.S. who prescribes antibiotics for disaster preparedness as part of his normal scope of practice. His web site is: SurvivingHealthy.com.



Letter Re: Some Thoughts on Burning Coal

Sir,
Probably the biggest gap in our survival preparations at present is having a good source of energy if we have to stay underground for an extended period. If surface conditions are such that we cannot venture outside, then most likely there will be problems with our photovoltaic panels, solar water heater and hydropower, all of which are above ground. With currently available technology, propane seems to be the only reasonable solution to support heat, hot water, and electricity. Propane can be stored indefinitely and furnaces, stoves and generators that run on propane are readily available. However, storing enough propane underground to support our group for several years would be impractical. I’m also uncomfortable storing large amounts of propane for many years, since it seems inevitable that it will leak eventually, presenting a safety issue as well as a loss of the resource. Most people, including serious preppers, don’t plan to rely on propane for more than a few days. For those with solar and hydro solutions that can work without pause for years, a 3-day backup system in the form of propane seems superfluous.

I keep coming back to coal. Like propane, it can be stored forever [if protected from weathering.] (Before it’s mined, it’s basically being stored indefinitely underground in a mine.) With existing, mature technology, coal can support all the things propane can be used for: heat, hot water and electricity. Unlike propane, there’s no danger of leaking, and it’s much more practical to store tons and tons of coal underground than it is to use buried propane tanks. There’s only one problem: unlike propane, electrical generators that run on coal are not readily available for individual household use. This seems strange, since coal is the number one energy source for electricity generation at the utility scale.

Are you or my fellow readers aware of any practical, reasonably efficient solutions for home electricity generation using coal as an energy source that don’t require an engineering degree to implement (if I had the skills I’d just build the generator from scratch myself)? I would be willing to pay a significant amount of money for such a system.

Thanks in advance, and best wishes. – Dale from Vermont

[JWR Replies: When ever wood heat or coal heat are mentioned in the blog, invariably someone will then Thermoelectric generation (TEG) technology . Unfortunately that technology hasn’t matured sufficiently to be reliable. Sadly, TEG circuits burn out with alarming regularity. So steam power–at least for now–seems to be the only reliable way to turn heat into electricity. Perhaps some readers would care to chime in with some alternatives.]



Letter Re: The Overnighters: Coming to a Neighborhood Near You

Hello Mr. Rawles, 
I felt compelled to write in regarding Frank C’s recent article, The Overnighters: Coming to a Neighborhood Near You, and share my experiences working in the non-profit world over the last four years.  While my experience is significantly different from Frank’s, he is in my opinion right on the money.
 
I live and work in a northeastern state.  The state has a low population, is very rural, but has a massive “public assistance” community within its borders. In other words, lots of “social programs.”  I am a die hard capitalist, gun-owner, conservative, Christian.  Not the best prepper, but I’m trying to change that.  About four years ago I began working for a non-profit, which was quite change from having been in the defense industry.  The operation is self-funded (operates as a business) so it fit with my personal beliefs.  The operation performs very basic services for area businesses, and pays people “piece rate” for each product produced.  In short, the harder they work, the more they make per hour.
 
How this relates to Frank’s article is this: we have a great many “Overnighters” that “work” for us.  It is the same crowd.  They have been given everything, and they cannot fathom a world that does not include a taxpayer-funded check every month.  Being independent is not on their radar screen. If you try to explain the concept and they  go completely blank.
 
Many business owners might be able to relate to this, but many who read this blog may be surprised how, even in this economy, it is very hard to get people to show up, work a full day, and then repeat that on a regular basis.  We give jobs to anyone who wants one, regardless of background, past indiscretions, etc.  We are here for everyone.  People don’t show up, barely give an excuse, and then expect to be put on the work schedule again, when it is convenient for them.
 
The smoke, drink, have fancy cell phones, and find it a major inconvenience to come to work occasionally, to fill in the gaps left by their “benefits.”  Many of them are completely without shame, and state emphatically that the only reason they are there is because, “the state cut my check.”  Many of them strategically work only the number of hours they can without upsetting the handouts.
 
These are the type of people who Frank mentions going door-to-door in his article.  When the checks and stamps dry up, these people will get ugly–very ugly.  What I have learned over the past four years is that this type of creature can exist anywhere. As I mentioned, this is a rural state, and the “city” I work in would not register as even a large town to most urbanites. But here they are.  The system has created them, and they have filled a massive population vacuum.  I live over an hour away, which is somewhat comforting, but these types of humans are even in the small towns of America, and they earnestly expect to be taken care of. Thanks, – Scott O.



Economics and Investing:

Ted B. sent this: European Union agrees on Iran oil embargo

The Economist reports on Romania: Anger management: The government struggles to contain a growing protest movement

Courtesy of Rex N. comes this link: Danger Ahead! Says the Bank of Canada

Over at KITCO: Comex Gold Ends Higher On Bullish “Outside Markets,” Positive Technicals

Items from The Economatrix:

Gold Bottom Targets Trend to $4,000

IMF in Need For $1 Trillion / The Private Greek Bond Fiasco

The Debt Supercycle Reaches its Final Chapter

Jim Sinclair:  There Will be a Run on Gold Stored in the US

On Banks Refusing Cash Withdrawals