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Our culture relies heavily on vehicles and this will likely result in a rude awakening in a TEOTWAWKI situation.  Depending on the circumstances, vehicles, fuel, and/or parts may become insanely scarce and expensive.  This reality has led many preppers to explore various options ranging from alternative energy vehicles to reverting to traditional forms of transportation/heavy machinery (horses for example).   Additionally, those preparing for the worst must consider abnormal conditions that vehicles need to withstand when TSHTF.  This article will discuss TEOTWAWKI vehicles, preparing, and special tactics/considerations in regard to operating them.

There are several schools of thought on what is needed in a survival vehicle, how to select them, etc., but unless you have a nearly unlimited budget (as well as good connections), the dream amphibious, Armored Personnel Carrier that runs on sunshine and hope , gets 80 miles per gallon, and is eco-friendly is probably not likely.  James Wesley, Rawles’ books “Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse” and “How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It” essentially recommend [for the sake of fueeel flexibility] having a diverse fleet of vehicles and this is a great idea and goal.  However, you might be restricted to one vehicle that meets your needs, purpose, and the threat environment that you anticipate.  For instance, are you planning to “bugout” and if so, will it be a long, cross-country trip?  Consider your location; your family sedan has sufficed in a snowy climate because of the roads being maintained, but when the salt trucks stop running, the snow and ice pile up, roads are littered with debris, and pavement breaks apart, will you be able to depend upon it? 

Though there are numerous recommendations out there for various makes and models, I would recommend a quality (not the same as luxury) SUV or truck.  TEOTWAWKI will require high-ground clearance, tough suspension, more space than your average grocery store trip, and work capacity.  Again, I will avoid preferences but older vehicles (no fuel injection or electronic ignition systems) will be better choices in many regards such as EMPs and simplicity of repair.  Fuel sources play a huge role in vehicle selection as they should because the vehicle is of little use if you cannot feed it.  I have not personally built a gasifier, but plan to do so in the near future.  If you are unfamiliar with this technology and have plentiful access to wood products, then you should look into this.  Window tint has some advantages such as concealing your identity and what you have inside your vehicle, but heed local laws and realize that your vehicle will unlikely be sitting in the shopping mall parking lot to be broken into when TSHTF.  One last note on vehicle selection borrows from both Mr. Rawles and good judgment; choose earth tone vehicle, preferably in a flat finish.  Our society buys flashy cars to stand out, but this is contrary to what you will want when TSHTF. 

Now that you have your vehicle (or fleet), you need to ensure they are ready to perform when and how you need them to.  Vehicle maintenance is critical to ensure dependability and longevity of your vehicle so make sure are taking care of it and know how to perform routine maintenance and procedures if you do not already.  If you are not mechanically inclined, you will benefit from taking vocational courses or hanging out with a gearhead family member or friend.  Purchase automotive manuals such as Chilton or Haynes for your vehicle.   Electronic resources are nice but might not be available in a grid-down scenario.  Do not depend on Google or YouTube to fix your vehicle.  This also goes for tools/lighting; they are great assets for automotive repair but require electricity and an impact gun powered by an air compressor paints you as a massive target to the “have-nots.”  Therefore, build your tool chest and consider investing in engine hoists and other heavy duty automotive tools.   In addition to acquiring knowledge, skill, and resources, integrate a weekly or monthly vehicle inspection plan.  This will not only keep your vehicle in top shape, but it will save you money in the long run and is a great opportunity to teach these skills to your family members.  Learn how ignition systems work because in TEOTWAWKI, it might useful to know how to start a vehicle without keys (like say, with a screwdriver).  The same goes for siphoning fuel; it can be done with a pump or the old hose method, but be aware that some newer vehicles have anti-siphon features (these can be bypassed). 

You will obviously need fuel and have probably devised a plan for producing and/or storing fuel, but have you considered the availability of replacement parts?  Auto parts stores, dealerships, junk yards, and eBay motors will not be open during TEOTWAWKI and will not take your terribly devalued money anyway so you might want to grab some key parts now if you plan to keep this vehicle.   Vehicles might be abandoned on major roadways everywhere one day, but they were left for a reason and it might be unsafe to try to remove parts (provided they have what you need).  Ideally, you will be able to replace/repair anything on your vehicle, but a spare parts car is unlikely/often impractical.  I would suggest that at a minimum, you have the following: several spare tires/wheels, tire plug kits, fix-a-flat, brakes, all vehicle fluids/lubricants, replacement hoses/belts, key gaskets/gasket material, sealants, thermostat, filters, assorted nuts/bolts/washers, ignition parts, starting fluid, fuses, wire, battery acid, paint, wire ties, tape, windshield wipers, and headlights.  Naturally, if you have some specialty vehicle (function or fuel), you will need to plan accordingly.  A note on tires is to frequently check your tire pressure and tread life.   Keep a tire gauge in your conveyance and do not depend on sensors and computers to diagnose your vehicle for you.  A penny  can be used to ensure you have adequate tread.  As long as the top of Lincoln’s head is not visible, you have sufficient (legal) tread.  However, the more diminished your tread is, the harder it is to stop, you get less traction, and hydroplaning/skidding are more likely.  In the event of a blowout, remain calm slowly decrease your speed and steer to safety.  Some people panic when a tire blows (or the breaks fail, car skids, etc.) but do not do this.  If you brake only to find that your brakes are malfunctioning, try the emergency brake or  gear down (if no brakes at all) and let compression slow you down.   Whether it is no brakes or the accelerator sticks, do not turn the engine off because it does not negate the problem and [in most vehicle of recent manufacture] now the steering column is locked (meaning you cannot steer).  Instead, put the vehicle in neutral and move to safety. 

You should equip your vehicle with survival in mind.  What you need is ultimately up to you but should include at least the following: fire extinguisher (dry powder, rated for A,B, C, and E materials), whistle, signal mirror, maps, compass, GPS, location beacon, heavy duty trash bags, N95 masks, duct tape, matches/fire starter, chem lights, flares, candles, phone charger, a good first aid kit, blankets, food, water, tire tool, jack, tire repair, jumper cables/booster box, electrical tape, wire, wire ties, fuses, v or serpentine belt, common wrenches, small socket set, pliers, screw drivers, a camera, tow strap, e-tool (small shovel), cigarette lighter air compressor, fuel can (they make collapsible ones if space is an issue), knife, toilet paper, soap/hand sanitizer, pen/pencil, notepad, list of emergency contacts (law, medical, poison, fire, and personal), flashlight, rope, medical/allergy alert, and bungee cords.   If you are traveling a long distance or through a harsh climate, consider what else you might need such as kitty litter or chains for traction on snow/ice or medications in case your day trip turns into a disaster.  I always pack my SUV for longer, more severe trips than I intend to make.  A CB radio and winch are two great tools too.  Camo netting is a worthwhile investment if your plan is to “bugout,” especially if long distance travel is involved.

Remember, this kit is not just for TEOTWAWKI; it could be the wreck you encounter on the way home, an injury at a local event, or simply assisting someone who is broken down.  Two key principles must be in place with stocking your vehicle; securing and organizing.  You will probably want the fire extinguisher or emergency glass breaking/seat belt cutter readily available, but you do not want them flying around the inside of your interior in the event of a wreck so secure all of these items to prevent injury and damage.  Lastly, organize your gear so you can quickly access it.  You do not want to be digging through a duffle bag in search of a wrench with dirty hands contaminating your sterile medical equipment.

Now, let’s move from the vehicle itself to operating them.  It is important to note several good rules of thumb before moving on.  First, be aware of your surroundings (situational awareness) in general, but especially when operating a motor vehicle or when at a high risk area such as a gas station, an ATM, or when slowed/stopped near chokepoints (overpass, train tracks, exit ramps, etc.)  Second, lock your cars doors at all times, even when you are driving.  Not only will this prevent someone from walking up at a stop and opening your door, such as a carjacking, but locked doors are safer in an accident because they shield you (whereas a missing door does not), support the roof from collapse, and keep you inside the vehicle.  Many have heard to leave them unlocked so if you are unconscious, rescuers can get to you, but many newer vehicles auto unlock and rescuers will likely break the glass or utilize the “jaws of life” so this is irrelevant.  Third, either have your windows all the way up or down (not partially) while operating the vehicle.  A partially lowered window is a good way to turn a minor car collision into a decapitation.   Next, never pull right up on the vehicle in front of you; instead, leave at least a few feet of pavement between the visible front of your vehicle and the one in front’s tires.  This will permit you to maneuver around this vehicle without reversing should it breakdown or someone jumps out shooting.   Be cautious about where you park and people in the vehicles near you.  Other than door dings and common sense (lighting, etc.), do not park between two large vehicles as this could be an abduction scheme.  Pause a moment before leaving a stopped state at intersections because it might be green for you now, but the person texting, driving drunk, or simply insistent on not catching that red light might plow into you.  You are such a nice person so who would want to harm you in any way?  Well, the world is strange like that sometimes so be cautious (not paranoid) of people following you.  Try to vary your daily routes and if you suspect someone is following you, make three rights turns to see if they continue.  If so, do not drive home, but go somewhere safe/alert authorities.  Another good practice involves your hand placement.  While this is ultimately a personal preference, do not rest/grip through the steering wheel because in the event of a collision, the wheel can jerk, breaking your wrists.  What may have been a simple collision has now given you broken hands and possibly a uncontrollable vehicle.  Lastly, try to notify friends and family about whereabouts, travel plans, and when you should arrive/return.  This may save your life or at least maybe some trouble.

The first special consideration is the “elements.”  Driving at night is not all that abnormal in our society but can be very different in a TEOTWAWKI world or even an emergency situation.  Most people have not “outdriven” their headlights, i.e. driven so fast that they cannot see in time to react.  If this is necessary, be sure to scan off the road to not only watch for people, vehicles, animals, etc., but to also break the tunnel vision.  One note about running over animals; do not swerve to miss an animal unless it would cause more damage than running off the road, like if it is a moose or bear.  If you see a large animal and cannot avoid impact, try aiming for its rear because you will likely just clip it and might miss altogether (it moves).   Insurance will sometimes cover (no fault) damage from hitting an animal, but slamming into a tree is usually regarded as a (your fault) collision.  Something to consider for TEOTWAWKI is noise and light discipline and vehicles put out a lot of both at night especially.  Many preppers already have or plan to purchase night vision goggles (NVGs) and driving with them can be a great benefit to exercise light discipline, but make sure you can wear or mount them.  Also, be aware that some models really impair your depth perception.  If you plan to operate under these conditions, install infrared lights so that you see even better.  Remember that other people with NVGs will be able to see these IR lights too though.

Other facets of the elements to consider are storms, rain, snow, and ice.  It is best not to travel in storms if possible so if you are on the road, pull over and wait it out. When you do transition back to driving, be sure your surroundings are safe prior to pulling out on the road.   However, if you must drive on, proceed slowly with your hazard lights on (unless tactically not acceptable).  Rain/flooding present concerns in limited visibility, hydroplaning, unseen hazards, and hydrolocking your engine.   If hydroplaning occurs, you must resist the urge to hit the brakes, but gradually slow down.  In any event that the vehicle begins to skid, let off the accelerator and steer into the spin, i.e. if the rear of your vehicle is skidding left, turn the steering wheel left, but do not over-correct.  If a road is flooded, you do not know the condition underneath the water, e.g. broken or missing roadways/bridges so do not proceed into water unless you can clearly see the pavement/lines. Moving or deep water can wash away your vehicle so check the depth.   Also, if you drive in too deep of water, you can suck water into the engine and destroy it.  If your vehicle fell victim to a flood, you might be able to salvage it if you change the oil, filters, plugs, grease it, and let it dry out prior to starting it.  You should thoroughly clean it and drop the oil pan/cleaning the engine and fuel system out is highly recommended.  With regard to driving on ice, proceed slowly and like you would fearing a hydroplane; do not slam on the brakes and correct accordingly.  If a road has been “cleared” but a “two-track” of snow remains, sometimes driving in the snow will improve traction.  Do not think that because you have an all-wheel or four-wheel drive that you can drive in whatever conditions.  Ice changes all of that. When cleaning your vehicle off for operation during winter storms, make sure to clean all of your glass and lights so you can see and that others can see you too.  Drive on frozen ice (only if you have to and have checked it) slowly, have your windows down, seatbelt off, and ready to bail out. 

If you would wreck or break down in a snow storm, your survival skills may truly be tested.  Hopefully, somebody knows your whereabouts, you can contact the outside world, and/or have a rescue beacon.  If you must shelter in your car, conserve gas and energy, stay awake, keep the hood cleaned, and be cognizant of carbon monoxide poisoning.   

“Off roading” might become a necessity of life instead of a hobby in TEOTWAWKI.  I doubt the roads and bridges will be maintained and when abandoned vehicles, debris, and potentially checkpoint roadblocks litter the roads, off roading may be necessary.  Hopefully, your vehicle has the capabilities, but this also requires skill.  First, let me emphasize that not all routes are passable but vehicles can travel over some pretty rough terrain.  Make sure that you have proper ground clearance and be aware that some steeper inclines and obstacles require an angled approach.  It is a good idea to trim panels that might otherwise break, to install skid plates, brush guards, and heavy duty suspensions (does not have to be “Big Foot,” but added weight/abuse can wreak havoc on stock components).   Do not be afraid to get out of the vehicle and check the road/obstacle/wash-out that you are contemplating to negotiate before committing to that route.  Off-roading is often associated with getting stuck.  If you are stuck, do not just freak out and mash the accelerator.  Instead, if you cannot move the direction you are trying to go, smoothly try the opposite way and turn the steering wheel to attempt to regain traction.  Sometimes you will have to dig yourself out (for example when high-centered (bottomed out) so remove the dirt to allow the tires traction if high-centered or dig gradual inclines in the direction you are trying to go if just stuck.  You may also be able to rescue yourself by let some air out of the tire, which puts more tire gripping surface to the ground.  Being stuck by yourself is no fun.  When accompanied, do not forget that passengers pushing and/or putting weight on the rear vehicle has led to many vehicles being freed from mud, muck, snow, etc.  Sometimes you must winch or tow a vehicle out. Take caution when using  a chain or cable to rescue vehicles because if the chain/cable breaks loose, it can excitedly and dangerously fly into nearby vehicles and people.  This can be avoided by using a tow strap/rope instead of a chain/cable or by placing a heavy towel, coat, etc. on the chain/cable.   If you are descending a steep hill, avoid slamming on the brakes, but instead allow your engine’s compression to slow you down (lowest gear).  Lastly, be careful when parking off road in tall grass or brush.  If the grass/brush comes in contact with hot engine or exhaust parts, it may burn the vehicle, you, your supplies, and the forest down. 

High speed driving has some considerations too (besides out-driving your headlights and tunnel vision).  When you are driving fast, try to never accelerate or brake while steering.  If you are driving fast going into a curve, brake hard and in a straight line (known as threshold braking) prior to the curve.  If you need to take curves fast, look into apex turning or better yet, take a training class so that you can practice this in a safe environment. 

Bugging out usually involves a vehicle loaded down with your loved ones and gear to go to some place to ride out the storm/make a stand.  Make sure you have a plan and not just gear.  Know the route, alternate routes, do not depend on your Tom Tom or On Star, plan on backed up/blocked roads, have contingency plans, have sufficient fuel, and be ready for anything.  If you are traveling a long distance, gas stations might not be able to serve you so have more than enough fuel and look at fuel cells/additional tanks in addition to fuel cans.   Bugging out requires extreme organization of your vehicle.  Have tools, food/water, medical supplies, weapons, and extra fuel readily accessible in addition to your bags.  Make good use of every square inch of storage and use the roof like people use to.  Practice loading your vehicle so there will no surprises and time your routes.  Depending on the circumstances, you could encounter checkpoints by hooligans and you need to have a plan for them.  I doubt they will be content with a small token of food or whatever else you have to permit you to pass when they could try to take it all.  You need to find another route or take them out and that is your personal decision.  If you choose to fight, have a plan for if you cannot win, if your vehicle becomes immobile, or it cannot safely be repaired due to conditions.  To run a road block of cars, aim for the rear of the vehicle (less weight), but this is a last resort.  

One last special consideration is fighting tactics from/with a vehicle.  Shooting and moving vehicles are not a fun time.  Although these are less of a concern in TEOTWAWKI, be mindful of hearing damage and hot brass inside of a vehicle.  Also consider compact weapons (or those with folding/collapsible stocks) for this because it is hard to aim a long gun inside a vehicle, especially when it is loaded for doomsday.  You can use a regular vehicle for cover and concealment, but know the difference; concealment only hides you whereas cover will stops bullets.  Ideal cover in regard to a vehicle is with the engine or wheel/axles between you and incoming fire.  Regular vehicle body panels do not stop bullets and do not press right up against the vehicle like the movie stars do because of ricochets, [spalling,] and shrapnel. 

You and your family might be on the road when TSHTF and the vehicle is all that you have access to.  A well-stocked vehicle can make all of the difference in both every day emergencies or if the world turns upside down.  Incorporate vehicle maintenance, knowledge/skills, and outfitting it into your plans and drills.