Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 43 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 43 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Fruit Trees: The Long Term Garden Companion, by Christopher G.

With the cost of groceries going up peppers know that being self-sufficient and creating their own garden is critical, but are you really looking at plants for the long term? Heirloom variety plants like tomatoes are essential to keep around, but if a day comes that you can no longer buy those seeds it is going to be a real pain to try and sort the seeds out from your food source. Taking a closer look at adding fruiting trees to your property and where they can fit into your landscape will make a huge difference in what your land can provide for you in the long term. For arguments sake, I’m going to focus on apple trees, because they can grow in the vast majority of climates throughout the United States, including areas that are within the American Redoubt.
Start by taking a look at what kind of fruits will grow in your area, obviously an orange tree will not grow outside in Pennsylvania, but apples would work very well in that climate. Take a look at the hardiness zone that your location is in, and then begin looking at fruit trees that will tolerate your climate. Rather than looking at older varieties of apples for example, it’s better to concentrate your search on the newer cultivars that are disease resistant; this will make a huge difference in terms of the quality of the fruit the tree will produce once it has established. Once you have a couple varieties in mind, start looking for places that will accommodate a mid-sized tree. You can build a fantastic orchard on less than a half-acre of property, but for those that are under really tough size constraints, you need to look at espalier fruit trees. Espalier trees are specially pruned to go up against the sides of walls or fences, and sit almost flat against that space, and still produce fruit. They require more pruning than a traditional orchard tree, but the compact size is definitely a plus.

| Purchasing apple trees can be a bit tricky, because you need to be aware of what you’re buying to get the most of your money. Big box stores will probably have small fruit trees in containers, but I would recommend going to an independent garden center instead, the quality of the plant material will be much higher than what you can find at a chain, and their staff will be able to offer expert advice on how to care for the plants. Depending on the size you are looking for, you will find the trees either in a plastic container or balled and burlapped. I would suggest buying the biggest size possible, because although the cost will be higher, it will decrease the amount of time you will need to have a mature fruit tree. If on the other hand you have plenty of room plant an orchard, look for trees that have been pruned properly. An apple pruned for fruit production will not have a nice oval shape, but rather will look irregular and a bit ugly. If you can’t find trees that have been pruned for fruit production, buy what you can, and as they grow they can be trimmed to produce plenty of fruit.

Once you have your trees home, you’ll need to plant them out to establish. You’re going to want to dig a hole that is going to put the top of the root ball flush with the existing soil line, and about two to three times the width of the root ball. At this point, if you have the tree in a plastic container you want to remove the container and take a look at the root system of the tree. If the roots are white, go ahead and plant the tree, if they look orange or brown, or are wrapped around the bottom of the pot, take a spade and slash the roots apart, this may seem like a bad idea, but this process helps to create healthy roots as the tree becomes established. If you have a balled and burlapped tree, do not remove the tree from the burlap, or remove the cage from the outside of the burlap if it has one. Instead, place the tree inside the hole, and then peel back the burlap until it will be below the soil level, eventually the metal cage and the burlap will decompose as the tree matures. Finally, you’ll want to backfill the area with topsoil, and mulch around the trees as you go. Keep in mind that you do not want to pile the mulch around the base of the tree, and should only be about 2 inches above the soil line, and deeper and the trunk may begin to rot. I would advise you to use processed mulch rather than wood chips or grass clippings. The microbes in wood chips will suck much needed nitrogen away from the trees to decompose the wood chips, a problem you don’t have to worry about with bark mulch.

The next step is the really important one, and that’s watering. If you’re not watering your tree at least three times a week, you better be getting a lot of heavy rain where you live. For each new tree you plant you should be watering it every other day to keep it healthy. Don’t bother using a sprinkler because they won’t get down deep to where the new roots will develop. It’s best to turn your garden hose on a low trickle and let it go for 2 hours on each tree for at least the  first 6 weeks, or until you get a good hard frost in your area.

It will take a tree anywhere from one to three years to establish, so be patient and keep a watchful eye out for any discoloration of the leaves, early leaf drop, and other signs of an unhealthy tree. After the first winter you can go ahead and apply a basic fertilizer to promote strong growth, but be careful not to over-fertilize the tree, because this will cause the leaves to burn. Small stalks may rise from the base of the tree, which are called suckers. Cut back the suckers any chance you see them; they will do no good for your trees.

Pruning your trees will need to take place during the late winter or early spring before the tree pushes flowers or leaves. Grab a basic pruning guide for the trees you have, and don’t be afraid to hack it into an irregular shape, this will promote flower and fruit production better than a tree that has a natural shape. Espalier trees are a bit easier because of their design, but will require more work because of there is a lot of small growth occurring. For an espalier removing the vertical growth from the horizontal branches will spur flowering in the spring, which will lead to fruit come fall.

If you have done alright to this point, all you need is time. Your fruit trees need to mature a bit before they will produce the fruit you desire. Fruit trees are notoriously bad for having issues with pest and diseases, and as such those disease resistant varieties you picked at the garden center will have a big impact. Those perfect apples at the supermarket? They have been sprayed with a minimum 20 applications of pesticides to get them in that good of shape. In a collapse you’ll be lucky if you can treat them at all. The point I’m trying to make is that your expectations of food need to change. There is nothing wrong with an apple that hasn’t been treated, it just won’t be pretty. Taking the skin of the apple off will reveal a near identical fruit to the one from the store, and baked into pies or other dishes will mask and of the small blemishes that are below the skin. In rare cases, you may find that the pests have overtaken your trees, and the apples are unpalatable. In those cases you can still make good of the fruit by feeding it to livestock. Pigs and poultry will devour fruit that has been destroyed by insects, providing them with additional calories, which will eventually providing your family with additional calories.

At the end of their life, apple trees can still serve a purpose even after the last leaf has fallen. Smoking meats with apple wood produces a delightful flavor, that anyone who’s ever had apple wood smoked bacon will attest to. From my experience however, a healthy fruit tree will last for decades, and can be very long lived.

Not every tree you plant needs to be a food producer. Arguments for shade, screening, and ornamental trees are all valid even in a prepper’s yard, but it would be foolish not to have some woody plants that will continuously provide fruit for your family, your livestock, or the wildlife in your area. I strongly encourage everyone to plant at least one fruit tree at their location, even if for no other reason but to say you have an apple tree.

Letter Re: Lindsay Technical Books Quitting Business

I’ve just received the last catalog from Lindsay Technical Books. I said the last catalog, not the latest one, the last one. The publishing owner has announced his coming retirement beginning the day after February 28, 2013. So the company is going the way of Loompanics. This is a shame.

For those of you who don’t know, this is a book company which published books on how to make and build stuff, some from scratch. Mostly focusing on metalworking, blacksmithing, some woodworking, basic electrical stuff. Even some stuff on how to make booze. – Jim B.

JWR Replies: I am hopeful that another publisher will buy the rights to the Lindsay titles and keep most or all of them in print. But in case this doesn’t happen, I highly recommend that SurvivalBlog readers immediately round out their bookshelf of Lindsay references. Once they cease publishing, the books will undoubtedly become scarce and more expensive.

Economics and Investing:

Peter Schiff: Riding Into the Sunset or a Brick Wall?

Goldman Sachs President: We’re In A Unique Period of History Where ALL Major Economies Are In Deep Trouble

“Legalized Plunder of the American People” – G. Edward Griffin

Items from The Economatrix:

Fed’s Fisher Says US “Drowning In Unemployment”

High Cost Of Energy Leading Economy Into Recession

Will The Chinese Remnibi Replace The US Dollar As The Primary Reserve Currency Of The World?

Reality:  More People Requested Emergency Food Assistance Than Found Jobs

Odds ‘n Sods:

Recommended by F.J.: HomemadeTools.net

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An interesting documentary: We The Tiny House People: Small Homes, Tiny Flats. JWR’s comment: Simplicity is laudable, but tiny houses leave no room for long term food storage. 🙁 How about Plan B: A tiny house with minimal living space to heat but adjacent to it build a big un-heated barn/shop/root cellar building?

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The reach of the Internet is amazing. Even obscure acronyms that I created just for SurvivalBlog can now be found far and wide.

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Beware the signs of the times, even in a state like Idaho: “He’s a Constitutionalist”. All that Federally-funded police training that references the SPLC’s clap-trap is filtering down, with predictable results.

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Finally, a television show about guns with some intelligence and sufficient technical accuracy: Family Guns.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“But let all those that put their trust in thee rejoice: let them ever shout for joy, because thou defendest them: let them also that love thy name be joyful in thee.
For thou, LORD, wilt bless the righteous; with favour wilt thou compass him as [with] a shield.” – Psalm 5:11-12 (KJV)

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 43 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 43 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

What’s in Your Pantry?, by Cathy H.

I wish I could remember the exact moment I became a “prepper”, although I would much rather use the term “aware”.  I’m sure everyone has that “A-ha” moment that sets them on the path to enlightenment, and that brings me to the subject of the day.  I would like to re-introduce canned food to all of those food snobs out there, because I once was one. Yes, it’s true – for me it was always “freshly caught”, “freshly killed”, “never frozen”, “minimally processed” and most especially “organic”.

As a child of the 1950s I was the unwilling guinea pig of early food engineering.  It was that heady time of instant coffee, minute rice, canned biscuits, and TV dinners. Forget all those home cooked meals that my grandmother used to cook. No more long hours slaving over a hot stove to put something nutritious on the table. This is sad to me because my Mom was actually a great cook – she was just a victim of misleading television advertising as many people still are today. If people were more interested in how their food is processed, and what actually goes into it, there might be some healthier folks walking about!

As a young adult during the 1970s I became a part of the early natural food movement in my own small way.  My husband and I were fortunate to have a few acres in the far suburbs of a major metro area.  We had a large vegetable garden and chickens, and I learned the arts of canning and freezing from his mother.  You see she was from an earlier generation than my Mom.  She was a product of the Depression and knew that you could not always count on being able to get food from the local grocery store. Having access to those fresh eggs and fresh vegetables inspired me in my own “slow food” movement. I came from a long line of excellent cooks, and I began to develop my cooking style to include everything from Southern-fried to haute cuisine. I even found the time to make homemade baby food when my children came along.

Flash forward to the present. As we all know life is not static.  First husband dies, family sells property, kids grow up, Mom marries again and boy does she luck out.  New husband is an outdoor guy and an electrical engineer to boot. We decided to purchase some acreage for our bug out location several years ago.  We are fortunate to be in a position to travel once or twice a month to our “farm” to practice living off the grid. We have a big metal building with no electricity or running water – just creek water, solar panels and LEDs, a generator and propane camp stove, which brings me in a roundabout way to “Cooking from Cans”.  You see, I’m one of those people who don’t care to eat “just anything” and my challenge was to see how creative I could actually be with those cans! Now I am well aware of the potential dangers of food in cans containing BPA (Bisphenol A) and the sodium factor, but when you are in a survival situation I think the possibility of long term side effects will take a back seat to starvation any day. 

So without further fanfare I would like to introduce you to some of my pantry cooking.  Even without a missile crisis or EMP these recipes will come in handy.  Maybe you are too tired to cook the full meal deal one evening, or perhaps paychecks aren’t coming quite as regular as they once did.  Food inflation is just around the corner folks so stock up while you can. The recent severe drought as well as the continued use of crops for fuel rather than food will have a dramatic effect on our financial well being, not to mention the continued insane monetary policies of the Federal Reserve.   I don’t call it hoarding – I call it being prudent!

SPICY MEXICAN CHICKEN
1 Can 10 oz. Rotel Drained (whichever flavor you prefer)
1 Can 15 oz. Black Beans Drained (any bean will do)
1 Can 12 oz Canned White Meat Chicken Drained
Here comes the hard part – dump them in a skillet and heat through for about 15 minutes. When I am preparing this under optimum circumstances I like to sauté an onion before the can dump. I usually add garlic, cumin, and salt and pepper.   I also add a “dash” of Mrs. Dash Southwestern Chipotle seasoning.  You can do a lot to jazz it up. I like to add cheese, green onion and crunched up corn chips if I have them on hand.  This is also really yummy in a flour tortilla burrito style. You could replace the canned chicken with rotisserie if you so desire or even fresh grilled chicken. Now here is where the food snob thing comes in.  All of my life I have eaten tuna from a can but wouldn’t be caught dead eating canned chicken.  Why not?  I guess ‘cause my Mama said it was icky.  Sad I know.  Costco has a six pack of canned white meat chicken for around $10.00 and it is delicious. Dried beans are fine to use as well, but what if you don’t have water or fuel to cook those for hours on end. Learn to trust the can.

Italian
Same as Mexican but add drained, regular or Italian style diced tomatoes instead of the Rotel and add a can of tomato sauce. I like to add some garlic, Italian seasoning and some Parmesan. If it’s not during said missile crisis or some other catastrophe it’s nice to sauté an onion and green pepper to jazz it up.  Serve it with some pasta, or if you want it vegetarian omit the chicken add some Cannellini beans. Spices are totally up to your imagination.

Cajun
Here again, basic chicken, tomatoes and tomato sauce.  Add onion and peppers if available.  Here’s where it gets interesting – OKRA!  Know what that is?  If you are from the South and don’t know, your momma is probably disappointed. Okra has a pretty fair amount of fiber. It comes in cans – just be sure to drain it first. Google it and see what you come up with. To me okra defines Cajun food – gumbo is just not gumbo without okra!  Use some garlic, Old Bay or bay leaf to jazz it up and serve over rice.  Try red kidney beans instead of chicken if you are so inclined.

Greek
 Rummage through those cans of beans and find two or three different ones – I like cannellini, kidney and garbanzo.  Drain, rinse and throw them in a bowl.  Got any jars of roasted red peppers?  Chop a few and throw them in.  Now if the hurricane left anything in your pantry or fridge, add a little olive oil, red wine vinegar, Garlic Mrs. Dash, chopped green onions (dehydrated or fresh), halved cherry tomatoes (or drained diced), and don’t forget the piece de resistance:  drained canned artichoke hearts. Green or black olives are always welcome and if you’ve really been industrious some homemade feta cheese crumbled over the top would be nice. I realize that most survival pantries probably don’t contain artichoke hearts or olives, but if we’re not talking imminent asteroid destruction they really add some flavor.  This is a hearty dish containing a lot of protein especially if you are able to add some cheese.

Home Style Vegetable Beef Soup
Now for a little variation let’s try canned beef instead of chicken (although you can use chicken if you like).  I prefer to rinse it off before using, but in a worst case scenario every little bit of nutrition and calories help.  Into a stock pot add the beef, non-drained tomatoes, onion (fresh or dehydrated), beef bouillon (if available), Veg-All, a bit of rice or potatoes, water to cover, and my favorite, okra. Add salt and pepper to your liking. You might not be as fond of okra as I am so skip it – the okra police will not come knocking I am sure! I realize that I am not giving exact proportions here – it’s not an exact science.  It will all depend upon the number of folks you are trying to serve and how hungry they are! 

Minestrone
This is the same recipe as the vegetable soup, but substitute macaroni for the rice or potatoes.  Skip the okra and add kidney beans; spice it up with garlic and oregano and add some torn spinach if available. What could be easier?

I hope these few simple recipes will help you with your pantry planning. It’s an easy way to stock your pantry without having to spend large amounts of money at one time.  Buy a few extra cans each week; we are only talking about ten or twelve varieties of canned food. If you don’t have a “pantry” put the cans in a box and slide it under a bed or in the back of a closet. Hopefully you will have rice and/or pasta on hand, and if you are really fortunate you have stocked up on dehydrated vegetables like onions and peppers.  I read once that the most difficult aspect of survival living was food boredom.  It seems as if people, and especially children, will actually refuse to eat if they are served the same food day in and day out. I’m not sure if this really applies to children as I could swear my kids ate peanut and butter and jelly sandwiches 24/7/365 for years on end!  Stock your pantry with plenty of spices and sauces – most are fairly inexpensive, and try to mix things up.  It could be the difference in living and thriving.  Happy Pantry Tummy!

Letter Re: How I Built My Own Rocket Stoves

James,
I recently fabricated my first two rocket stoves using $25 in parts per stove, and gave one to my local volunteer fire department fundraising auction.  It takes just over an hour to make one and it works great.  The fuel/vent stand is key for ensuring air flows under the fuel for maximum combustion.  The pot grill is key for ensuring maximum heat transfer to your cooking pot without choking the fire.  

It was pretty nice the other morning making scrambled eggs without having to use propane, electricity, or the fire pit.  The rocket stove is one of the most efficient wood fuel stoves ever devised.  

You can find a photo of one of the finished stoves, here.

The following is how I made the rocket stoves:

Materials
– 5 gal steel paint pail from commercial paint store, with lid $12 (or free if you find a used metal paint can)
– 18″ x 24″ wire deck from Lowe’s SKU# 319519 $5 
– 4″ galvanized duct elbow $4
– 24″ piece of 4″ galvanized duct $4
– small sheet metal screws
– Wood ashes

Tools
– Saber saw with metal blade
– drill bits and drill motor
– tin snips
– pliers
– vise
– electric hand grinder with metal cutting wheel
– half round file

Fabrication
– Cut the wire deck with the cutting wheel to create both the fuel/vent stand and the pot grill
– Bend legs of fuel stand at stable angle so that top of stand lines up with center of vent pipe when raised off of bottom of pail about an inch
– Taper front end of fuel stand so that three inches of it can fit into vent pipe without binding.  Leave two small studs protruding so that they can fit into notches cut into vent pipe
– Mark paint can on side where vent pipe would be centered and draw 4″ circle
– Do the same in center of paint can lid
– Remove foam seal in paint can lid
– Drill starting hole with 1/4″ bit and wiggle to widen hole enough for saber saw blade to fit
– Cut out both circles (don’t worry much about the quality of these holes
– Attach vent to elbow and fasten with three sheet metal screws, avoiding screw at top of vent where fuel will be shoved through
– Measure width of bottom of paint can and cut duct with grinder cutoff wheel so that the pre-assembled 90 degree angle will easily fit in the bottom of the can (it will protrude properly once the  duct is centered vertically in the can)
– Attach remaining section of duct to other end of angle duct
– Pre-install duct into both holes to confirm fit, and mark top end of duct at 1/2″ above top of lid and cut off excess duct with grinding wheel
– File cut edges of both ducts with half round file to reduce risk of sharp edges
– Fill paint can with wood ashes and slightly compress with hands as you fill it, while maintaining duct centered in can
– Put lid on and crimp closed with pliers
– Mark horizontal duct 1″ in from edge to align with the two attach stubs and drill clearance hole for fuel stand stubs
– Cut clearance notch in duct slightly above clearance holes to allow stubs to slide along duct and drop into place into the clearance holes like a detent position
– Cut remaining piece of wire deck so that you can bend four support legs and bend the outside corners in a bit to fashion a grill
– Cut the support legs so that the grill stands at 1/2″ (or slightly under) above the duct edge (this may take trial and error, but you want to maximize heat transfer to your pot without choking your air flow)
– You’re done.  The commercial guys sell an adjustable pot skirt which directs the heat up the sides of the pot.  I might make one of those as an accessory one of these days.

Economics and Investing:

Greece Hits 25% Unemployment, Germany on Brink of Recession, France And Italy Could Face Another Credit Downgrade, Social Breakdown Is Taking Place Inside Europe...

AmEx (American Expat) sent: IMF Sees ‘Alarmingly High’ Risk of Deeper Global Slump

Reader Pat S. recommended: Radical Simplicity, or Life after the Great Disruption

Those pesky derivatives again: Cynicism aside, why the NY AG’s MBS suit vs JPMorgan matters

Items from The Economatrix:

16 Critical Economic Issues That Obama And Romney Avoided During The Debate

India’s Stock Exchange “Closes” After State Bank “Flash-Crash”

Food Is The New Oil And Land The New Gold

Gasoline Prices Set To Rise Through Election Day

Odds ‘n Sods:

Joe K. liked this Rodale piece: 12 Low-Tech Tools You’ll Always Use

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Reader Jeremy I. sent us an item to file under Emerging Threats: Infamous mountain man burglar caught on video, still roams free. (Do not leave supplies cached in unattended wilderness cabins and expect them to be immune from burglary. It is important to build undetectable wall or floor caches for your valuable weapons, ammunition, optics, and electronics.)

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The Knob Creek machinegun shoot and plein air gun show will be held again this coming weekend. One of these years–when my writing schedule isn’t quite so intense–I’ll actually get the chance to go there.

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I heard that Ready Made Resources has extended their special pricing on genuine full mil-spec AN/PVS-14 Gen 3+ night vision scopes. For a limited time they are offering these “grade A” autogated scopes with a free Picatinny rail weapons mount, free shutter eyepiece and free shipping. As usual, these include a head mount and carry case. These have a five year warranty and free annual maintenance for five years. Normally $3,895, these are on sale for $2,795 with free shipping. FWIW, I just bought another one of these monoculars for our use here at the Rawles Ranch. (After all, “Two is one and one is none.”)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

Homer: I’d like to buy your deadliest gun please.
Apu: Aisle 6, next to sympathy cards.
– The Simpsons, Season 9, Episode 5, “The Cartridge Family”

Notes from JWR:

From SurvivalBlog reader Mark C. I learned that on Wednesday, we lost a true American hero. Command Sergeant Major Basil Plumley died at 92 years of age in Columbus, Georgia. CSM Plumley was a combat infantryman in WWII, Korea, and Viet Nam. Sam Elliot played him in the movie “We Were Soldiers”.

—

Today we present another entry for Round 43 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 43 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

On the Road to Thunderdome, by H.F.

Our culture relies heavily on vehicles and this will likely result in a rude awakening in a TEOTWAWKI situation.  Depending on the circumstances, vehicles, fuel, and/or parts may become insanely scarce and expensive.  This reality has led many preppers to explore various options ranging from alternative energy vehicles to reverting to traditional forms of transportation/heavy machinery (horses for example).   Additionally, those preparing for the worst must consider abnormal conditions that vehicles need to withstand when TSHTF.  This article will discuss TEOTWAWKI vehicles, preparing, and special tactics/considerations in regard to operating them.

There are several schools of thought on what is needed in a survival vehicle, how to select them, etc., but unless you have a nearly unlimited budget (as well as good connections), the dream amphibious, Armored Personnel Carrier that runs on sunshine and hope , gets 80 miles per gallon, and is eco-friendly is probably not likely.  James Wesley, Rawles’ books “Patriots: A Novel of Survival in the Coming Collapse” and “How to Survive the End of the World As We Know It” essentially recommend [for the sake of fueeel flexibility] having a diverse fleet of vehicles and this is a great idea and goal.  However, you might be restricted to one vehicle that meets your needs, purpose, and the threat environment that you anticipate.  For instance, are you planning to “bugout” and if so, will it be a long, cross-country trip?  Consider your location; your family sedan has sufficed in a snowy climate because of the roads being maintained, but when the salt trucks stop running, the snow and ice pile up, roads are littered with debris, and pavement breaks apart, will you be able to depend upon it? 

Though there are numerous recommendations out there for various makes and models, I would recommend a quality (not the same as luxury) SUV or truck.  TEOTWAWKI will require high-ground clearance, tough suspension, more space than your average grocery store trip, and work capacity.  Again, I will avoid preferences but older vehicles (no fuel injection or electronic ignition systems) will be better choices in many regards such as EMPs and simplicity of repair.  Fuel sources play a huge role in vehicle selection as they should because the vehicle is of little use if you cannot feed it.  I have not personally built a gasifier, but plan to do so in the near future.  If you are unfamiliar with this technology and have plentiful access to wood products, then you should look into this.  Window tint has some advantages such as concealing your identity and what you have inside your vehicle, but heed local laws and realize that your vehicle will unlikely be sitting in the shopping mall parking lot to be broken into when TSHTF.  One last note on vehicle selection borrows from both Mr. Rawles and good judgment; choose earth tone vehicle, preferably in a flat finish.  Our society buys flashy cars to stand out, but this is contrary to what you will want when TSHTF. 

Now that you have your vehicle (or fleet), you need to ensure they are ready to perform when and how you need them to.  Vehicle maintenance is critical to ensure dependability and longevity of your vehicle so make sure are taking care of it and know how to perform routine maintenance and procedures if you do not already.  If you are not mechanically inclined, you will benefit from taking vocational courses or hanging out with a gearhead family member or friend.  Purchase automotive manuals such as Chilton or Haynes for your vehicle.   Electronic resources are nice but might not be available in a grid-down scenario.  Do not depend on Google or YouTube to fix your vehicle.  This also goes for tools/lighting; they are great assets for automotive repair but require electricity and an impact gun powered by an air compressor paints you as a massive target to the “have-nots.”  Therefore, build your tool chest and consider investing in engine hoists and other heavy duty automotive tools.   In addition to acquiring knowledge, skill, and resources, integrate a weekly or monthly vehicle inspection plan.  This will not only keep your vehicle in top shape, but it will save you money in the long run and is a great opportunity to teach these skills to your family members.  Learn how ignition systems work because in TEOTWAWKI, it might useful to know how to start a vehicle without keys (like say, with a screwdriver).  The same goes for siphoning fuel; it can be done with a pump or the old hose method, but be aware that some newer vehicles have anti-siphon features (these can be bypassed). 

You will obviously need fuel and have probably devised a plan for producing and/or storing fuel, but have you considered the availability of replacement parts?  Auto parts stores, dealerships, junk yards, and eBay motors will not be open during TEOTWAWKI and will not take your terribly devalued money anyway so you might want to grab some key parts now if you plan to keep this vehicle.   Vehicles might be abandoned on major roadways everywhere one day, but they were left for a reason and it might be unsafe to try to remove parts (provided they have what you need).  Ideally, you will be able to replace/repair anything on your vehicle, but a spare parts car is unlikely/often impractical.  I would suggest that at a minimum, you have the following: several spare tires/wheels, tire plug kits, fix-a-flat, brakes, all vehicle fluids/lubricants, replacement hoses/belts, key gaskets/gasket material, sealants, thermostat, filters, assorted nuts/bolts/washers, ignition parts, starting fluid, fuses, wire, battery acid, paint, wire ties, tape, windshield wipers, and headlights.  Naturally, if you have some specialty vehicle (function or fuel), you will need to plan accordingly.  A note on tires is to frequently check your tire pressure and tread life.   Keep a tire gauge in your conveyance and do not depend on sensors and computers to diagnose your vehicle for you.  A penny  can be used to ensure you have adequate tread.  As long as the top of Lincoln’s head is not visible, you have sufficient (legal) tread.  However, the more diminished your tread is, the harder it is to stop, you get less traction, and hydroplaning/skidding are more likely.  In the event of a blowout, remain calm slowly decrease your speed and steer to safety.  Some people panic when a tire blows (or the breaks fail, car skids, etc.) but do not do this.  If you brake only to find that your brakes are malfunctioning, try the emergency brake or  gear down (if no brakes at all) and let compression slow you down.   Whether it is no brakes or the accelerator sticks, do not turn the engine off because it does not negate the problem and [in most vehicle of recent manufacture] now the steering column is locked (meaning you cannot steer).  Instead, put the vehicle in neutral and move to safety. 

You should equip your vehicle with survival in mind.  What you need is ultimately up to you but should include at least the following: fire extinguisher (dry powder, rated for A,B, C, and E materials), whistle, signal mirror, maps, compass, GPS, location beacon, heavy duty trash bags, N95 masks, duct tape, matches/fire starter, chem lights, flares, candles, phone charger, a good first aid kit, blankets, food, water, tire tool, jack, tire repair, jumper cables/booster box, electrical tape, wire, wire ties, fuses, v or serpentine belt, common wrenches, small socket set, pliers, screw drivers, a camera, tow strap, e-tool (small shovel), cigarette lighter air compressor, fuel can (they make collapsible ones if space is an issue), knife, toilet paper, soap/hand sanitizer, pen/pencil, notepad, list of emergency contacts (law, medical, poison, fire, and personal), flashlight, rope, medical/allergy alert, and bungee cords.   If you are traveling a long distance or through a harsh climate, consider what else you might need such as kitty litter or chains for traction on snow/ice or medications in case your day trip turns into a disaster.  I always pack my SUV for longer, more severe trips than I intend to make.  A CB radio and winch are two great tools too.  Camo netting is a worthwhile investment if your plan is to “bugout,” especially if long distance travel is involved.

Remember, this kit is not just for TEOTWAWKI; it could be the wreck you encounter on the way home, an injury at a local event, or simply assisting someone who is broken down.  Two key principles must be in place with stocking your vehicle; securing and organizing.  You will probably want the fire extinguisher or emergency glass breaking/seat belt cutter readily available, but you do not want them flying around the inside of your interior in the event of a wreck so secure all of these items to prevent injury and damage.  Lastly, organize your gear so you can quickly access it.  You do not want to be digging through a duffle bag in search of a wrench with dirty hands contaminating your sterile medical equipment.

Now, let’s move from the vehicle itself to operating them.  It is important to note several good rules of thumb before moving on.  First, be aware of your surroundings (situational awareness) in general, but especially when operating a motor vehicle or when at a high risk area such as a gas station, an ATM, or when slowed/stopped near chokepoints (overpass, train tracks, exit ramps, etc.)  Second, lock your cars doors at all times, even when you are driving.  Not only will this prevent someone from walking up at a stop and opening your door, such as a carjacking, but locked doors are safer in an accident because they shield you (whereas a missing door does not), support the roof from collapse, and keep you inside the vehicle.  Many have heard to leave them unlocked so if you are unconscious, rescuers can get to you, but many newer vehicles auto unlock and rescuers will likely break the glass or utilize the “jaws of life” so this is irrelevant.  Third, either have your windows all the way up or down (not partially) while operating the vehicle.  A partially lowered window is a good way to turn a minor car collision into a decapitation.   Next, never pull right up on the vehicle in front of you; instead, leave at least a few feet of pavement between the visible front of your vehicle and the one in front’s tires.  This will permit you to maneuver around this vehicle without reversing should it breakdown or someone jumps out shooting.   Be cautious about where you park and people in the vehicles near you.  Other than door dings and common sense (lighting, etc.), do not park between two large vehicles as this could be an abduction scheme.  Pause a moment before leaving a stopped state at intersections because it might be green for you now, but the person texting, driving drunk, or simply insistent on not catching that red light might plow into you.  You are such a nice person so who would want to harm you in any way?  Well, the world is strange like that sometimes so be cautious (not paranoid) of people following you.  Try to vary your daily routes and if you suspect someone is following you, make three rights turns to see if they continue.  If so, do not drive home, but go somewhere safe/alert authorities.  Another good practice involves your hand placement.  While this is ultimately a personal preference, do not rest/grip through the steering wheel because in the event of a collision, the wheel can jerk, breaking your wrists.  What may have been a simple collision has now given you broken hands and possibly a uncontrollable vehicle.  Lastly, try to notify friends and family about whereabouts, travel plans, and when you should arrive/return.  This may save your life or at least maybe some trouble.

The first special consideration is the “elements.”  Driving at night is not all that abnormal in our society but can be very different in a TEOTWAWKI world or even an emergency situation.  Most people have not “outdriven” their headlights, i.e. driven so fast that they cannot see in time to react.  If this is necessary, be sure to scan off the road to not only watch for people, vehicles, animals, etc., but to also break the tunnel vision.  One note about running over animals; do not swerve to miss an animal unless it would cause more damage than running off the road, like if it is a moose or bear.  If you see a large animal and cannot avoid impact, try aiming for its rear because you will likely just clip it and might miss altogether (it moves).   Insurance will sometimes cover (no fault) damage from hitting an animal, but slamming into a tree is usually regarded as a (your fault) collision.  Something to consider for TEOTWAWKI is noise and light discipline and vehicles put out a lot of both at night especially.  Many preppers already have or plan to purchase night vision goggles (NVGs) and driving with them can be a great benefit to exercise light discipline, but make sure you can wear or mount them.  Also, be aware that some models really impair your depth perception.  If you plan to operate under these conditions, install infrared lights so that you see even better.  Remember that other people with NVGs will be able to see these IR lights too though.

Other facets of the elements to consider are storms, rain, snow, and ice.  It is best not to travel in storms if possible so if you are on the road, pull over and wait it out. When you do transition back to driving, be sure your surroundings are safe prior to pulling out on the road.   However, if you must drive on, proceed slowly with your hazard lights on (unless tactically not acceptable).  Rain/flooding present concerns in limited visibility, hydroplaning, unseen hazards, and hydrolocking your engine.   If hydroplaning occurs, you must resist the urge to hit the brakes, but gradually slow down.  In any event that the vehicle begins to skid, let off the accelerator and steer into the spin, i.e. if the rear of your vehicle is skidding left, turn the steering wheel left, but do not over-correct.  If a road is flooded, you do not know the condition underneath the water, e.g. broken or missing roadways/bridges so do not proceed into water unless you can clearly see the pavement/lines. Moving or deep water can wash away your vehicle so check the depth.   Also, if you drive in too deep of water, you can suck water into the engine and destroy it.  If your vehicle fell victim to a flood, you might be able to salvage it if you change the oil, filters, plugs, grease it, and let it dry out prior to starting it.  You should thoroughly clean it and drop the oil pan/cleaning the engine and fuel system out is highly recommended.  With regard to driving on ice, proceed slowly and like you would fearing a hydroplane; do not slam on the brakes and correct accordingly.  If a road has been “cleared” but a “two-track” of snow remains, sometimes driving in the snow will improve traction.  Do not think that because you have an all-wheel or four-wheel drive that you can drive in whatever conditions.  Ice changes all of that. When cleaning your vehicle off for operation during winter storms, make sure to clean all of your glass and lights so you can see and that others can see you too.  Drive on frozen ice (only if you have to and have checked it) slowly, have your windows down, seatbelt off, and ready to bail out. 

If you would wreck or break down in a snow storm, your survival skills may truly be tested.  Hopefully, somebody knows your whereabouts, you can contact the outside world, and/or have a rescue beacon.  If you must shelter in your car, conserve gas and energy, stay awake, keep the hood cleaned, and be cognizant of carbon monoxide poisoning.   

“Off roading” might become a necessity of life instead of a hobby in TEOTWAWKI.  I doubt the roads and bridges will be maintained and when abandoned vehicles, debris, and potentially checkpoint roadblocks litter the roads, off roading may be necessary.  Hopefully, your vehicle has the capabilities, but this also requires skill.  First, let me emphasize that not all routes are passable but vehicles can travel over some pretty rough terrain.  Make sure that you have proper ground clearance and be aware that some steeper inclines and obstacles require an angled approach.  It is a good idea to trim panels that might otherwise break, to install skid plates, brush guards, and heavy duty suspensions (does not have to be “Big Foot,” but added weight/abuse can wreak havoc on stock components).   Do not be afraid to get out of the vehicle and check the road/obstacle/wash-out that you are contemplating to negotiate before committing to that route.  Off-roading is often associated with getting stuck.  If you are stuck, do not just freak out and mash the accelerator.  Instead, if you cannot move the direction you are trying to go, smoothly try the opposite way and turn the steering wheel to attempt to regain traction.  Sometimes you will have to dig yourself out (for example when high-centered (bottomed out) so remove the dirt to allow the tires traction if high-centered or dig gradual inclines in the direction you are trying to go if just stuck.  You may also be able to rescue yourself by let some air out of the tire, which puts more tire gripping surface to the ground.  Being stuck by yourself is no fun.  When accompanied, do not forget that passengers pushing and/or putting weight on the rear vehicle has led to many vehicles being freed from mud, muck, snow, etc.  Sometimes you must winch or tow a vehicle out. Take caution when using  a chain or cable to rescue vehicles because if the chain/cable breaks loose, it can excitedly and dangerously fly into nearby vehicles and people.  This can be avoided by using a tow strap/rope instead of a chain/cable or by placing a heavy towel, coat, etc. on the chain/cable.   If you are descending a steep hill, avoid slamming on the brakes, but instead allow your engine’s compression to slow you down (lowest gear).  Lastly, be careful when parking off road in tall grass or brush.  If the grass/brush comes in contact with hot engine or exhaust parts, it may burn the vehicle, you, your supplies, and the forest down. 

High speed driving has some considerations too (besides out-driving your headlights and tunnel vision).  When you are driving fast, try to never accelerate or brake while steering.  If you are driving fast going into a curve, brake hard and in a straight line (known as threshold braking) prior to the curve.  If you need to take curves fast, look into apex turning or better yet, take a training class so that you can practice this in a safe environment. 

Bugging out usually involves a vehicle loaded down with your loved ones and gear to go to some place to ride out the storm/make a stand.  Make sure you have a plan and not just gear.  Know the route, alternate routes, do not depend on your Tom Tom or On Star, plan on backed up/blocked roads, have contingency plans, have sufficient fuel, and be ready for anything.  If you are traveling a long distance, gas stations might not be able to serve you so have more than enough fuel and look at fuel cells/additional tanks in addition to fuel cans.   Bugging out requires extreme organization of your vehicle.  Have tools, food/water, medical supplies, weapons, and extra fuel readily accessible in addition to your bags.  Make good use of every square inch of storage and use the roof like people use to.  Practice loading your vehicle so there will no surprises and time your routes.  Depending on the circumstances, you could encounter checkpoints by hooligans and you need to have a plan for them.  I doubt they will be content with a small token of food or whatever else you have to permit you to pass when they could try to take it all.  You need to find another route or take them out and that is your personal decision.  If you choose to fight, have a plan for if you cannot win, if your vehicle becomes immobile, or it cannot safely be repaired due to conditions.  To run a road block of cars, aim for the rear of the vehicle (less weight), but this is a last resort.  

One last special consideration is fighting tactics from/with a vehicle.  Shooting and moving vehicles are not a fun time.  Although these are less of a concern in TEOTWAWKI, be mindful of hearing damage and hot brass inside of a vehicle.  Also consider compact weapons (or those with folding/collapsible stocks) for this because it is hard to aim a long gun inside a vehicle, especially when it is loaded for doomsday.  You can use a regular vehicle for cover and concealment, but know the difference; concealment only hides you whereas cover will stops bullets.  Ideal cover in regard to a vehicle is with the engine or wheel/axles between you and incoming fire.  Regular vehicle body panels do not stop bullets and do not press right up against the vehicle like the movie stars do because of ricochets, [spalling,] and shrapnel. 

You and your family might be on the road when TSHTF and the vehicle is all that you have access to.  A well-stocked vehicle can make all of the difference in both every day emergencies or if the world turns upside down.  Incorporate vehicle maintenance, knowledge/skills, and outfitting it into your plans and drills.

Two Letters Re: Wilderness Survival in a Northern Climate

Jim,
I read your blog almost everyday and sometimes I get a little irked when someone writes “You can survive without water for three days”. Having been an investigator in a desert climate, I can attest to the fact that a person can die of dehydration in a matter of 4 hours, especially if they have been drinking alcohol or taking drugs just prior to going on that hike or riding an ATV into unknown lands. True you can survive longer in northern climates, but you can’t count on going three days without water. It is misleading and can cause the unnecessary death of people who get lost!
 
Another thing, as my good friend Cody Lundin taught me, always carry several gallon sized plastic Zip-Loc bags. They are extremely light weight and make great canteens in an emergency. Furthermore, one can places the bags over the end of leafy tree limbs and suck the water out of trees. True, you may not get much, but every ounce can be a life saver.
 
I hope this helps someone if they get caught out in a situation they don’t want to be in. – T.J.

Dear Mr. JWR,
Food is very important in maintaining your core temperature when outdoors in a northern clime.  I’m talking about being out for extended periods in sub-zero weather.  I go out for a day or two at a time and my favorite high calorie foods are peanut butter and pemmican. They give you good ” bang for the buck” and are relatively compact and you can eat them while you’re walking.  I also love my kelly kettle.  It’s nice to have a hot drink in about 5 minutes even when it’s -30F.  If you are going to go out playing in the snow or are living up north where the cold is quick killer do yourself a favor and read Snow Walker’s Companion: Winter Camping Skills for the North by the Conovers.  

I also carry a lighter, matches, ferro rod, and old school flint and steel with char cloth.  Fire Is Life, so know it, understand it and make it your friend.  The cold doesn’t care whether you live or die, be prepared for it. – Captain S.