Letter Re: In-Extremis Travel; Red Light, Green Light, Yellow Light

JWR:
Regarding the recent article by “Will Prep”:

The otherwise well written article with lots of good information overlooked mentioning amateur (ham) radio as the very best mode of communications when he asks: “What will I do for Communications?” Any General or higher class ham with a few radios that he/she uses on a regular basis will have no problems with communications!

“Will Prep” must have lots more spare cash than the average person to even mention satellite phones!

Thanks again to JWR for this great site! Keep up the good work. – Ken M.



Economics and Investing:

The Coming Derivatives Panic That Will Destroy Global Financial Markets. [JWR Adds: I’ve been warning you about derivatives since 2006.]

R.B.S. sent: Obama Slaps States That Don’t Comply With Obamacare

Also from R.B.S.: More Signs of Silver Shortage

Items from The Economatrix:

Shopper “Fatigue” Hurt Retails Sales Last Week

Home Prices Up 6.3% In October From Last Year. [JWR’s Comment: It is remarkable what hundreds of billions of Dollars created out of thin air and the fantasy land ZIRP can create, in the short term. ]

“We Are In The Midst Of The Keynesian Depression”

US Households Already Went Off Their Fiscal Cliff And Breached Their Debt Ceiling–US Quickly Approaching Another Debt Ceiling Limit Aligning With The Fiscal Cliff



Odds ‘n Sods:

You gotta love Texas: Burglar calls 911 to save himself from gun-wielding homeowner (Thanks to T.J. G. for the link.)

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James C. sent this sign of the times: Missouri Farmers Fight Rise In Hay Thefts

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File under: Jackboot Mega Overkill: FBI and State Police Conduct Massive Manhunt and Raid Against Prepper Who Was Angry Over Obama Reelection

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Sasol to Build the First Ever Gas-to-Liquid Plant in the US

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I just heard that Ready Made Resources now has the PS-24 FLIR Scout thermal imaging scope on sale for $1,895, with free shipping.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“There aren’t any great men. There are just great challenges that ordinary men like you and me are forced by circumstances to meet.” – Admiral William Frederick “Bull” Halsey Jr.



Notes from JWR:

Jenny of The Last Frontier blog has reported the tragic death of her husband, in an accident. Please keep Jenny and her two young sons in your prayers. She mentioned that they are moving back to their homestead for the rest of the winter. I’ll post word if I hear about a memorial fund. (She hadn’t been posting to her blog much in the past couple of years because of the high cost of flying in propane for their genset. She and her husband built their Alaska homestead on a limited budget.)

Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Arctic Survival Footwear, by Richard M.

In a survival situation whether this is a crashed airplane, lost on hunt or a collapse scenario where normal items become scare, inexpensive or both knowing how to construct your own arctic survival footwear could be the difference between life and death, comfort or pure agony!

I was reading this old book called “THE ARCTIC SURVIVAL GUIDE” written by Alan Innes-Taylor for the Scandinavian Airline System in 1957, it has a lot of good info in it, and I believe most of it is the same info that is in some of the old US AIR FORCE Arctic Survival Manuals from the same period. Among the various survival techniques described in these books are some very primitive yet effective techniques. These include:

MOOSE HOCK SHOES
One way to get a nice pair of shoes is to use a method of footwear as old as the caveman.
For this you can use the hock skin of caribou, moose, elk or any large game animal.
Basically look at the animals foot, where the bend is that area above and below is what you are going to use, tailor it to your own foot. 
CUT A: Will be the area above the bend that will be body of the boot that goes up your leg, make sure it is long enough to make it med calf so it will be like a legging of sorts
CUT B: Will be BELOW the Bend and will be sewn up to keep your toes from hanging out!
• You will want to cut Areas A & B all the way around and deep.
• Separate from the Leg and pull it off over the hoof, you now basically have a L shaped piece of hide.
• In a less immediate survival situation you could clean and tan the hide, for long term use.  In a survival situation, try to scrap the loose bits of meat off as best you can, but this is about survival and getting home, so a little left on there is ok, just not optimal.
• At part B (the bottom end) sew that up with whatever you have (This is why a Paracord Belt would be great! the fibers from a piece of paracord would work perfect!)
• Then poke holes with the bottle opener/leather punch (if you have  a Leatherman handy) or just holes from a knife will work fine to create holes for laces.
• Then take the laces from the destroyed boots if possible or paracord(see another use, I’m not kidding about how useful that stuff is buy Spools!)
You know have a decent footwear.  Don’t discard this as “gross” or too “primitive living”, try walking on a nice day through the woods with just socks, now imagine that in Arctic, cold weather survival situation!
Since the Moose provides you with four hocks, you can make two pairs of these shoes, and be able to change them out whenever you need to, definitely take advantage of the material to make a second pair.

Note:  The Book “ARCTIC MANUAL” which was written by  Vilhjalmur Stefansson for the U.S. Army Air Corps in 1944,  is an excellent resource for many different arctic survival needs, recommends caribou for homestead/primitive living boots.

“The sole, shoepac type as always, is of August or September bull Caribou, and form the back skin.  October hides are sometimes used but as said, the skins get thinner as the season advances…August or early September bootsole is so durable that on snow exclusively, or on snow and grassland, one pair of soles will carry you a thousand miles at least.”
Pretty neat stuff right?

Your Moose hock shoes will work fine, but what they lack is insulation, this leads me to the next thing to consider…

GRASS LINING/INSOLES
Simple grass has been used by northern natives and hard living European hunters/trappers, etc for a long time to help augment the insulating factor of your socks, or to preserve your socks as well.
The biggest killer in an arctic environment is not the cold as much as it is inaction or getting wet.
When you walk around for awhile you start to perspire (sweat) For a quick walk in the woods, this is ok, but in a true survival situation you will want to slow your pace enough to keep you warm and conserve energy as well as to control your perspiration.  If you have good insulating boots and socks your feet will perspire, making your socks wet and when you stop that wetness will turn ice cold.

Grass insoles are good for three things
• Good dry grass will absorb the perspiration and your socks will be dryer
• The Grass will add another layer of insulation to keep your feet warm (as you get colder your body will make sure the core stays warm and your extremities such as your hands and feet will get much cooler)
• The grass can provide more cushion to your feet AND insulation if you are wearing improvised footwear like the moose hock shoes mentioned above.
How to make the insoles
• You will want to take ANY tall grass that grows throughout the north.  Grasp large handful in both hands (the guide mentions a “sheaf” of grass, basically enough so both your hands, on on top of each other, aren’t touching) twist it in opposite directions.  take that bundle and fluff it up into oblong shapes so it is “fluffed up” like a nest (this is so there is air insulation in between the grass).
• Make sure this oblong shape is “foot like” but wider than your actual foot and a inch thick, carefully put that into your shoe/boot.

GRASS LINING
If you have socks (hopefully a couple) use this to further your insulation.
• Put your first sock on
• Using the same method for the insoles put that in your second larger sock and roll it down so it is very short
• Carefully put your foot in, and try to have overlap over the edges onto the top of your foot with grass.
• Pack loose grass around the open space all the way up the sock, rolling it up as you go.
Now the picture in the book shows parachute fabric as the outer layer, this is a military manual and is for pilots that have to bail out of their aircraft, so they would have this available.  This same method would work perfectly with the moose hock shoe, depending on the size of the moose and the room you have inside.
At night or long periods of rest take these out and dry them.  Discard them if possible in place of new grass if you can find it.
If you cant find dry grass, make a wooden “grate” and attempt to dry the grass on that, you could take rocks and put them in the fire to warm them and then place them under the grate to dry the grass or just set them near enough to dry but don’t let them catch fire of course!
 
The Hudson Bay Duffle

Another form of insulation for boots or improvised footwear could be the “Hudson Bay Duffle”

The Hudson Bay Company had a trade with the Natives for insulated socks.  They would make triangular pieces of fabric from soft blankets and sell them for use inside of Moccasins.
All you need is some piece of cloth cut into a triangle, and you stick your foot in that with it pointing towards one point of the cloth.
Edge 1: Is the point in front of your foot
Edge 2: Is the point to the left of your foot
Edge 3: Is to the right of your foot.
• Edge 1 would go straight over the top of the foot
• Edge 2 and 3 would be wrapped OVER the instep
The “completed” Duffle would look rough but useable.
This would then be eased into the moccasin and firmly lashed. DONE

This has a few advantages over socks:
1. Depending on material it could be washed and dried quickly
2. Foot can be placed differently to help even out wear, and avoid holes that may form in the heel
3. It can be made from any soft material, from jackets, to multiple shirts, blankets, etc.
You can definitely use this if you have an extra blanket in your pack that you can cut a piece from, then use Grass as an insole and then put inside the Moose Hock shoe.
I would definitely try to get your hands on these books if possible, check out local libraries or see if libraries in other areas would loan them to yours so you can check them out. 



Letter Re: Coban Wrap a Must for Medical Kits

Dear James:
I’m a long time reader and love the SurvivalBlog site. I really wanted to point out one little thing that  I think is a very important item in any kit: Coban Wrap. (Sold under several brand names.)
 
I’m a former medic and now live in the northeast on the water. I have young kids and we do some of boating and spend a fair amount of time on the remote rocky beaches of the area. When we got here earlier in the year I put together a little first aid kit focused on multi-use items and scalability and try to keep it with me especially when we’re far from emergency services. I broke into the kit a lot this summer and the one thing that stood out was how glad I was to have Coban.
 
Coban’s a self adhering wrap and I’ve been impressed its versatility for a while. This last summer I used it many times.
Here’s what it came out of the kit for this summer (these are off duty situations):

  • Foot laceration. Happened in the ocean, nasty cut. Coban kept pressure on and sand out. It really helped with the long walk out.
  • Compression wrap on a metal door to forearm collision. Was told it helped a lot.
  • Ankle sprain.
  • As [the equivalent of] an Ace bandage on my own sprained knee while wade fishing. This got me through the half mile walk home over a very rocky shoreline.
  • Stabilization of a large fishhook in a young girl’s foot. Seemed to calm her down and let her parents get her to the Emergency Room.
     

That’s what I actually used it for in just one 2-month period as a civilian… In more dire trauma situations it’s an extra hand when there are multiple wounds and holds things together a lot faster than tape. Many problems big and small can be addressed with a roll of Coban and a trauma pad and I keep both of them even in my smallest kit.
 
Suffice to say that I think the versatility of Coban is worth noting especially since it is rarely supplied in stock first aid kit lists. I’d urge folks to consider adding it to their kits.
 
Best Wishes, – Frank L.



Letter Re: Making Our Bug Out Bags Work: Shaving Weight

Hi James:
I can attest to the veracity of the recent article Making Our Bug Out Bags Work: Shaving Weight. My journey to cut weight was spawned by a previous article from your blog.

This past May I went camping and hiked 22 miles in 3 days with my bug out bag. The weight was around 41 pounds which is considered light by most standards. I’m 31 years old and in pretty good shape, run 10-15 miles a week and exercise. But just that amount of weight was tougher than I expected, it exhausted me, and caused me to get blisters on both feet.  So for all those people with 50-70 pound bags I suggest they wake up to reality and actually test out their system.

Since then I’ve cut the weight of my pack down to 28.5 pounds total, with four days of food and one day of water, sleeping system, tent, pad, first aid, minimal gear, rain gear, clothes to sleep in, and a 2nd change of clothes.  My base pack weight (minus food, water, fuel) is 17 pounds. I can tell you that is a huge difference. I’ve also started walking with my pack each week to build up those back muscles that rarely get used. Yesterday alone I did 6.2 miles without a problem and the week before I walked a total of 13. 

I suggest everyone with a bug out bag go walk 5 miles with it as it currently is. Upon returning I bet everyone will be ready to cut weight! “Ounces Equal Pounds and Pounds Equal Pain”. – Regards From Joshua H.



Economics and Investing:

Over at Guerillamerica: The American Redoubt: New Byzantium

Some ominous news, from England: Tax hitmen to track your spending: Up to two million people are to have their credit files secretly checked under a crackdown on tax evasion to be unveiled by George Osborne to help raise another £10 billion. (Thanks to Greg C. for the link.)

James K. sent this from McNewspaper: Invest in gold bullion or gold-mining companies?

Yishai sent this news from the small island nation of Curacao: Police Baffled: $11.5M in Gold Bars Burgled in Bold Boat Heist

Items from The Economatrix:

Even Without U.S. Cliff, World Economy Teeters

Manufacturing Shrinks To Lowest Level Since July 2009

Fitch:  “Fiscal Cliff” Significant Risk To U.S. States

The Insourcing Boom



Odds ‘n Sods:

Great news for California residents! Some Berkey water filter products can once again be shipped to California.

   o o o

I heard from one of the Bulgarian consultants to the translators of my books that the Bulgarian edition of Patriots and the Bulgarian edition of How to Survive the End of the World as We Know It are now available online. For the latter book, there have been 12 foreign publishing contracts to produce editions in 11 languages. The German, French and Spanish editions are also already in print, and I expect the Russian, Portuguese, and Korean editions to be released soon. It is amazing to see the popularity of the preparedness movement, worldwide.

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James C. sent this: Bubblepack window insulation.

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I just heard that Duncan Long’s e-book, “You Can Survive the Very Worst Manmade and Natural Disasters: A Handbook for Self-Reliance” is available FREE on Amazon.com, but only through December 6, 2012.

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More ethnic cleansing in Sudan: Scorched Earth Near Al-Abassiya



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Remember that there is nothing stable in human affairs; therefore avoid undue elation in prosperity, or undue depression in adversity."  – Socrates (469 BC – 399 BC)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Making Our Bug Out Bags Work: Shaving Weight, by Big Bob

We could endlessly debate which threats are of immediate risk during a wilderness bug out. However, one of the most important is rarely discussed, avoiding injury. A quick sampling of Youtube videos or forum “bug out lists” quickly gives the impression that in the survivalist community, we carry too much weight. Many people plan to carry 60-70 pound packs for days at a time, while covering 15 miles per day. For some readers, this is feasible, but for most people, myself included, it is not. When talking about the dangers of bugging out, I often read about mudslides, wild animal attacks, bullet wounds, and a plethora of other comparatively unlikely events. Rarely does anyone talk about overexertion, and when they do, it is always in the context of physical fitness. Fitness is important; if you are not fit, it does not matter how many pounds of rice you have on your back. However, lowering your pack weight is one of the best ways to increase mobility, possible distance covered, and overall energy levels, all skills that should be high on our list. Every ounce does count; ask anyone who has gone on a long distance backwoods trip with 30lbs and then again with 35 pounds. The difference almost seems unbearable by day six. Every ounce you save is an asset towards your survival. Injury on a bug out makes you a liability for a group or a target for aggressors; it should be our number one priority to avoid it.

There is a large cultural difference between ultra-light backpackers and climbers on one hand and preparedness-minded individuals on the other. There is some overlap, but overwhelming, the climbers and ultra-light backpackers I have met have been gun-averse yuppies. However, these are communities that have a rigorous culture of shaving ounces and they have valuable things to teach us. Some things obviously do not translate (e.g. they do not have to carry guns and ammo); however, many things do. I have tried to provide some practical skills for shaving ounces off your pack. Yes, some of them are more expensive; however, simply saving the change in your pocket each day can make up the difference. Furthermore, a philosophy of weight vs. use can be the difference between life and death in the bush.

As a brief side note, stop buying military surplus. What? Blasphemy! We need to look at why we value military surplus items. The answer is, on face, simple. Military gear is made with two ideas in mind: price-point and durability. For many preparedness-minded individuals, the combination of rugged and cheap is too good to pass up; however, military surplus always comes at the expense of weight. If you have no plan to bug out or have a vehicle in your plan, weight is not as much of an issue. However, for backcountry bug outs using your own two legs or an animal (like sled dogs or a horse), we need to seriously weigh the price-point versus the weight. It is imperative, and literally a matter of life and death, that you are not buying military surplus merely to “look tactical.” Many of the tips explicitly compare military surplus items with alternatives in the civilian market. This is not because I have any qualms, per se, with surplus items; it is because we have to always compare value to weight and sometimes, surplus items just do not hold up. If it is all you can afford, by all means buy it, but understand the drawbacks. Surplus items are not the “end-all, be-all” of survivalism.

What a mess! How are you cooking?

Most of the pack lists I see legitimately have more pots and pans than I have in my kitchen. You do not need a frying pan, you do not need a one-gallon pot, and you most certainly do not need a Dutch oven. 95% of all foods that you carry on your back can be cooked in a 1-liter cylindrical pot, which also doubles as a cup. Your basic foods are freeze-dried food, which requires boiled water, and stews. Bacon and eggs should not be in your bug out plan, nor should peach cobbler. Lose the heavy mess kit with 18 various pots and pans and get one, single pot. You will be surprised that you never did so before. On that note, invest in a pot. Yes, invest. A 1-liter titanium pot is expensive, no one will tell you otherwise. However, I went through five “quality” mess kits before I plucked up the balls to drop the dough on one. It drops your whole mess kit to a fraction of a pound and it will last you a lifetime. I have met tons of people who will spend over $1,200 on a custom 1911, but would never spend $70 on a good pot. Their reason is that “it will last me forever.” Good point, I will almost certainly be able to pass my titanium pot onto my kids. Consider it a lifelong investment and save for a month or two if necessary. If it just is not an option, you still need to forgo the heavy mess kit and get one, solid pot that you can work with; of course, weight and durability are your main concerns. I am a big fan of stainless if you cannot drop the money on titanium, but I still think, after three years now, that it was the best $70 I have ever spent. On the utensil route, buy a cheap plastic set for under $3 that legitimately weighs nothing. I prefer hardened plastic to disposable options simply because they are more durable and cost virtually nothing; however, budget minded people may forgo the purchase altogether.

Foods: where you can make a real difference

One of the most important lessons I have learned is that your larder and your bug out plan need drastically different food choices. No food in your pack should have water in it; it doubles the weight because you are already packing water. Throw out the cans and find freeze-dried options. You do not need to spend $20 per meal on expensive pre-packaged food. Learn to freeze-dry your own food; it is actually easier than you think. If you do want to go the MRE route, strip them down. Excess packaging adds weight and many of the items will be doubled-up in your pack. Most of the items are unnecessary and while it may seem like nothing, every ounce counts. Lastly, expandable foods like rice and pasta weigh slightly more but pack tons of calories and cut water weight on a budget. All of this literally shaves pounds off your pack for essentially the same price.

Water: How do you carry it?

Most of the conversations on water deal with how it is procured. However, an equally valuable conversations needs to happen around how we carry it. This is where surplus can be handy; you need one or two 1-quart plastic canteens. Surplus canteens are great for this; they are cheap, durable, and relatively lightweight. However, you need more water than 2 quarts. Collapsible plastic water reservoirs are a great way to save weight and space as you move through water. Unless your pack has a purpose-driven holder for a Camelbak type system, I would forgo it to avoid the extra weight of effectively carrying it. Canteens are tried, tested and relatively lightweight. Use cordage to hang the canteens over your shoulder to get the weight off of your hips. All of this seems like a worthless endeavor for a few ounces; however, empty canteens are wasted weight and have fewer uses than an empty, clear water bladder.

Sleeping systems, not sleeping bags

Where do you live? Before you pack your sleeping system (and I use the word system intentionally), you need to analyze the weather. Prepare for the worst; however, if it rarely freezes where you live, you do not need a sub-zero bag. Over packing for the climate is a surefire way to add on unnecessary weight. Sleeping bags are a big investment but the technology has come a long way in recent years. I finally decided to trade in my 8-year-old mummy bag for a newer model and was shocked by the weight, and price, advances that have been made in recent years. I bought a new bag for half the cost; it weighed ¼ what my old bag did and compressed into about a fifth of the size. That is serious value for the dollar and online shopping can be your friend on this front. Lastly, consider your entire sleeping system. A tent and pad might add weight over a tarp but cut weight off of your sleeping bag. Research how your entire system works together. A heavier pad may wash out the weight instead of going 15 degrees colder on your bag and give you added comfort. If you live in alpine or plains environments, a tent that cuts the wind can literally shave pounds off of your sleeping bag. Do not just say, “lighter is better,” but understand how the system works together.

Guns: where everyone has an opinion

This is where I tread into dangerous ground. Everyone has an opinion and thinks their gun is best for the job. I will merely try to offer some guidelines; however, when thinking about carrying a gun, there are two main factors only occasionally discussed: total gun weight and total ammo weight. I have hiked around with a steel-framed, full-sized sidearm and will never do it again. You may love that 1911, but know your abilities. If by day six you wish you had brought something else, that is bad news. Some people have no problems with hiking around with a 70 lb pack and another couple hanging on their hip; I am not that person. I get fed up with it and you should know if you would as well. For rifles, switch out wood stocks for synthetic to cut pounds. I’m confident with my .270 Winchester but if you want to go with a semi-auto, explore your options. Consider a carbine and lose the fancy accessories like laser dots. These seem like nothing but after a week they seem like a lot more. Secondly, consider ammo weight. A .416 Rigby packs a punch but the thought of lugging around ammo for it makes me shudder as I type this. You may love your .45 but consider how much ammo you could carry for the same weight with a 9mm. The obvious caveat is to pack what you shoot well; backcountry hiking with a gun is always a compromise. I have a friend who cannot shoot anything other than his 1911 any better than my grandmother can shoot a .416 Rigby (do not ask me why; he can shoot someone’s finger off with the 1911 while drunk and blindfolded). That would warrant the extra weight; however, understanding what you shoot well is coupled with understanding the weight drawbacks of a certain caliber. “Stopping power” should not be your only consideration.

Caching: make your time easier

Let us hypothetically say my bug out plan included a 100-mile cross-country ski trek through unplowed snow. Carrying 7-10 days worth of food is a lot of weight but you need the food nonetheless. Creating multiple cache points full of some food, water, ammo, and emergency medical supplies can cut weight and strategically increase your options. Have multiple bug out plans with multiple cache points along each, giving you versatility. This cuts weight off your pack for the immediate time and gives you adaptability. These do not need to be $1000 worth of food, water, and ammo, simply a resupply along the way.

Make friends, even different ones

Climbers and ultra-light backpackers often will not share your desire to plan for a WROL scenario. However, they love the outdoors and shared trips can help you build valuable skills. I learned my technical rescue skills from anti-gun climbing and SAR friends, not from my survivalist friends. You will be surprised what kinds of people the outdoors can bring together, even with different political views. They also value saving ounces and have some amazing tips to add. Lastly, many of them are budget minded and gear focused. That means that they love new gear but often have to sell old gear to pay for it. Being first in line for top-notch used gear pays off in the long run.

The first thing you will learn when you get into the ultra-light backpacking game is how fast saving an ounce or two here and there saves pounds. You will never be able to hike with a 50 pound pack again knowing what you know. I have focused on the “biggies” where I see mistakes made in the preparedness-minded community. There are thousands of other ways to save weight, from stoves, to clothing, to pack style. However, I feel this has been a good introduction.



Letter Re: Welding, Post-TEOTWAWKI

JWR:
My favorite planned substitute for welding in TEOTWAWKI is brazing. It can be done with a carbon arc torch, an oxyacetylene torch or on a old fashioned forge. The latter is particularly attractive to me as it requires no gas or electricity to accomplish. I have a charcoal fired forge and find that by sandwiching two pieces of metal together around some flattened brass rod and flux then using tie wire to hold all in position. I can place the pieces in my fire and increase the air (turn the crank) until the brass melts and flows to the two pieces of metal. I stop the air (reducing the heat), let the brass solidify then remove the bonded pieces, cool, then cut and grind the tie wire off. It’s a lot easier then forge welding but not as quick and easy as using modern equipment. – Axman



Economics and Investing:

M.E.W. mentioned this New York Sun editorial: After The Dollar.

15 countries with no personal income tax. (Thanks to H.L. for the link.)

David W. spotted this: Post-US world born in Phnom Penh. (15 Asian nations forman economic partnership that excludes the USA)

Items from The Economatrix:

Our Collapsing Economy And Currency

Next Up For A “Recovering” Europe:  A 30% to 50% Collapse In Wages In Spain, Italy And France

The Past 30 Days Have Seen The Largest Physical Gold Sales On Record

S&P 500 Will Drop 1.8% to 1,390 in 2013, Wells Fargo Says