Letter Re: Survival Bikes

A few more thoughts on survival bikes, especially two readers’ recommendations to use Presta-valve tubes. Mark L. might be a bit of a bike snob; I understand that, having myself been into high-end
bicycles and raced and toured thousands of miles, but his comments on Presta valves and suspension bikes I think are off the mark in a TEOTWAWKI situation. You cannot buy a Presta valve anywhere except a [high end] bike store or online. In my area, in the winter, there are no bike stores open within 150 miles in the best of times. Of course, if you’re thinking of stocking up on Presta tubes, remember they will
grow brittle with age. Big-box stores, which stand a better chance of staying open in a civil crisis situation, DO NOT CARRY THEM–only Schrader. You cannot fill a Presta tube at a gas station. Schrader
valves have served cars well enough. The late bicycle tourist Ken Kifer, whose web site kenkifer.com is still up through the kindness of a friend, was a pragmatist who lived in a Thoreau-inspired cabin in
the woods and toured many thousands of miles on bicycles–on Schrader tubes. (Detailed diaries of most of his rides are on his site–he powered a laptop with a solar cell on the carrier of his bike.)

And suspension bikes WILL break; without welding tools (and of course the power to run them) you will be out of luck. The only possible realistic reason for any suspension on a bicycle is on a racing trials
bike. Otherwise, all the vehicle’s wheels are on the ground 95% of the time (which is the purpose of suspension on a four-wheeled vehicle). One can always stand on the pedals for rough terrain.

Mark’s right, though, about Kevlar tires when you can, and about “seats.” A small saddle on a bike that’s well-fitted (and fitting and riding technique can be researched on the Internet–it’s quite
important) is much better in every application than any “seat” with too much padding or springs (except the highest-end Brooks and Ideale saddles).

I also agree with all about the superiority of steel lugged frames and avoiding buying bicycles in big-box stores. (Although bicycle manufacturing is so low-tech that a simple bike from Wal-Mart or Kmart
nowadays will probably last a good long time with proper care.) – Peter H.

Recipe of the Week:

N.G in Minnesota’s Rye and Cranberry Stuffing

This recipe started off as an “oops” and turned into a great side dish. I was making a Rye Batter Bread, but hadn’t greased the pan well enough. When I went to remove the bread, it came out of the pan in chunks. The taste was great, so I didn’t want to waste it, but it wasn’t going to work for sandwiches.
We’ll start with the Batter Bread:

1 ¼ cups warm water (100-110F)
2 ½ t dry active or instant yeast
2 T honey
2 T oil or softened butter
1 c Rye flour
2 c Wheat flour
1 ½ t Salt
1 T Caraway seeds

Combine water, honey, and yeast. Let rest for 5 minutes. Stir in oil or butter, the rye flour, and 1 cup of wheat flour. Stir in remaining wheat flour, salt, and caraway seeds. Cover and let rest in a warm place for about 30 minutes. Stir down the batter. (It will not have raised much in this step) Spoon into a well-greased 9×5 bread pan. Cover, and let rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size. Bake at 350 for about 35 minutes. Remove from pan and let cool on a wire rack.

Now for the Stuffing:

4 T butter
1 small onion, minced
4 ribs of celery diced small
1 loaf Rye bread, cut into small cubes and dried
1 c dried cranberries
2 to 2 ½ cups chicken broth or apple juice
2 t sage

Melt butter in Dutch oven or deep sided frying pan. (I prefer cast iron, because it can go from the stove top to the oven, which means fewer dishes to wash.) Cook onions and celery in butter until soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and add cranberries, sage, and Rye Bread. Stir in chicken broth or apple juice slowly, until mixture is moistened. The amount needed will depend on how dry your bread is. You don’t want mush, but you don’t want to end up with cardboard either. Cover and bake at 350 for 30-45 minutes. Check once after about 25 minutes. If stuffing is too soft, remove cover for the rest of the baking time. If too dry, stir in a little more liquid. If just right, don’t touch it!

Chef’s Notes:

The pie won’t set up completely but does become firmer as it cools. Mmmmm. Super tasty!

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

Stuffing Recipes

More Stuffing Recipes

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!

Economics and Investing:

G.G. flagged this: Why Are People Hoarding Coins?

Reader Steve L. sent: Cost to Make Penny and Nickel Rises, Annual Loss Reaches $116.7 Million. When seigniorage goes negative, modern era governments almost always move to debase their coinage. The window of of opportunity to acquire nickels without sorting will be closing soon!

Drought expands, concerns mount about wheat and rivers

G.G. flagged this: Government borrows 46 cents of every dollar it spends. And meanwhile, we read: Federal Budget Deficit 24% Higher Over Same Time Period Last Year. How long can this go on? Protect yourself by diversifying out of Dollars and into practical, barterable tangibles.

Items from The Economatrix:

Central Bank Gold Purchases To Top 500 Tons This Year In A New Record Supporting Prices

Food Stamp Enrollment Up As Unemployment Rates Declines

Many Jobless In US Don’t Collect Unemployment

Odds ‘n Sods:

The Freeze Dry Guy two-week 25% off sale of Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans ends on December 13th, so order soon. This sale offer includes free shipping to CONUS!

   o o o

A Heapin’ Helpin’ of Chicago Hypocrisy: Anti-gun Legislator Faces Weapons Charge

   o o o

The folks at Tattler Reusable Canning Lids have announced a One Day Sale.   On Monday, December 10th, 2012 their specials will be as follows:
Regular Lids/Rings – 1/2 case (12 dozen) – $69.95 – 30% discount
Wide Mouth Lids/Rings -1/2 case (12 dozen) – $78.95 – 30% discount
1/2 case each of either Regular or Wide Mouth Lids/Rings – $137.95 – 35% discount

   o o o

This new hand/pedal-cranked generator looks promising: Crank-A-Watt

   o o o

Your editor asks: Why is it, that in this Age of Big Government, that when a corrupt, thieving, perjuring, or philandering politician gets caught hand-in-cookie-jar that the first question is not whether or not they’ll serve a long stretch at Joliet, but rather: whether or not they’ll be allowed to keep their lucrative pensions. Cases in point: Mayor Sheila Dixon, Congressman Jesse Jackson, Jr., Congressman Anthony Weiner, and Canadian Senator Raymond Lavigne. And for those of them who go Full Kwame, there can even be the opportunity to collect a six-figure pension while in prison. (For example: Congressman Duke Cunningham and Dan Rostenkowski.)

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“As for old school secession, it’s not the sort of power that is granted or earned. It’s taken, along with the consequences. The practical nexus is confiscation of federal property and loss of revenue and compensation for repatriation and so forth. It’s said “stealing their money” is the only crime DC takes seriously. Secession would be seen as robbery by DC, especially those states comprised largely of federal lands. No vilification would be enough, no remedy too extreme.” – Ol’ Remus, in The Woodpile Report blog, December 4, 2012.

Notes from JWR:

December 9th, 2012 would have been the 98th birthday of Maximo Guillermo “Max” Manus. He was was one of the few Norwegians who had the testicular fortitude to put his life on the line, fighting the Nazi occupiers. (There surely would have been many more active resistance fighters in Norway, but fearing widespread reprisal executions by the Germans, King H7 urged the civilian populace to stand down.) Manus passed away in 1996. His exploits are fairly accurately shown in the movie Max Manus: Man of War

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Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Shopping in the Dark, by A.D.G.

[Editor’s Introductory Note: I didn’t write the following article. It was written by reader A.D.G. Normally I wouldn’t run an article that discusses loathsome behavior. Stealing from your employer or from your fellow employees isn’t conscionable. But I decided to post it because it underscores the importance of keeping a well-stocked Get Home Bag (GHB) ready whenever you are away from home. Do not put yourself in a position where you must loot to survive. – J.W.R.]

I found myself at the office during a power failure and I started thinking about what to do in an emergency situation if I was at work and for some reason without my GHB.  Of course the best option would be to already have the bag constructed, but in the event that this was not possible, I began scouting around for items to gather should the need arise for me to construct a GHB on the fly and then get out of there. 

As a side note, I work in a corporate office building for a medium sized employer on the edge of a big, but not Chicago or Atlanta sized city.  While the power was out and I had some time to think thanks to my computer being out, I compiled a list of items to get and how to gauge their effectiveness.  As an employee it may be helpful to find out what your company’s emergency plan is and what resources the company has available to respond to emergencies.  Even if you don’t have to start collecting these resources to get out quickly, knowing where the AED and other first aid supplies are located may save one of your co-workers lives.  Also, if you are familiar with your office plan, you will know how people will be instructed to react in an emergency and be able to plan your collections accordingly.

I would start by securing some provisions for the trip home in our cafeteria.  We have a great salad bar that contains walnuts, craisins, sunflower seeds, cracker packets, raisins, croutons, those little crunchy things and the usual lettuce, cheese, bacon bits and dressing.  The kitchen has several storage containers, and our supply closet contains some ziploc bags, which is where I would begin my storage.  In a real disaster I expect the kitchen to be abandoned as individuals are either in the designated storm area or trying to get out.  I would create a trail mix out of the dry items in one bag and then create a bag of the more perishable items, which I would try to eat first.  I would also try to grab a chef knife, small pot, and plenty of sugar, salt, pepper and other compact calories.  I would grab as many of the breakfast bars as possible and hopefully have enough to get me home.  If the aluminum foil were accessible, I would pack some along to help cook and even keep me warm in an emergency.  For water, we have several sources throughout the building.  One of the least considered sources is our icemakers throughout our kitchens located on each floor.  While the pipes may be broken and the bottles may disappear, the ice maker will stay frozen for a few hours and if everything melts it should still hold some residual water.  Fortunately, the cafeteria has bottled water, and most of our conference rooms have fridges stocked with bottles of water.  I would grab as many of these as I thought I could carry and proceed back to my office.  To carry all of these items, typically have a good sized briefcase with a shoulder strap, alternatively I would go to the workout room and look for a gym bag of some sort.

After securing food I would try to find better-suited clothes to get home in.  We have a workout room with open lockers.  I would prioritize finding spare socks and grab a towel while I was down there.  If I found suitable shoes and workout type clothes, I would try to change into these for my trip home and leave my suit behind.  I would then grab the first aid kit off the wall and go on to scout out more provisions.  Many of our offices have candy dishes on the desks.  I would try to get the candy for trade or extra calories and move on to the break room.  We have several coffee pots and if I was not able to get a pot out of the kitchen, one of these would work though the plastic handle might melt off.  For cordage, Ethernet cables not only contain a thin string but also have 8 individual small wires, which can nicely bind things together.  I would grab some paperclips to fashion fishhooks (it is tricky but still possible to catch a fish on one) and some binder clips to function as clamps.  Around my office I would also try to gather my thermos, my wire coat hanger that stays on my door, my letter opener (which is very sharp) and the tea bags I keep in my desk.  Unfortunately we don’t have cans of coffee grinds (ours come in a plastic pouch) but if we did I would take the can to cook and store things in.  Hopefully a few packs of our plastic coffee would give me the extra energy to make it home, even if I ended up eating it.

If your office doesn’t have a cafeteria, consider raiding departmental fridges and freezers for provisions (just be careful because I have found some nasty things when cleaning out one of our fridges).  Additionally, try to notice who always seems to have snacks and make a note of where their desk is.  When they leave they might just leave their snacks behind.  If this doesn’t work, you may have to raid the vending machine.  If the power is out, you will likely have to smash and grab what you need, but be careful not to cut your arms on the glass in the front.  If the machines have cages, it may not be worth the time and energy to try and break through them to get to the food before leaving.

On to our janitor’s closet, a mop handle makes a suitable walking stick / spear to help you keep your footing and fend off any dogs you may encounter on the way home.  Some of our cleaner is just chlorine bleach.  I would try to get a small container of this (perhaps in a clearly labeled water bottle) to purify water as I traveled.  Further, some of our cleaner is denatured alcohol diluted down.  This would make a great antiseptic and fire starter should the need arise.  I may also be able to get a utility knife and some extra garbage bags for creating a shelter, a poncho and for keeping my stuff dry.  As I made my way down the hall, I may be able to grab one of our few emergency flashlights, but these would likely be gone in the event of a power outage.  Hopefully I cold grab the hose off of the fire extinguisher, but if not, I would try to stop by our maintenance shop before leaving.  This area is usually secured, but if it were accessible, I could add a crowbar, flashlight, batteries, tape, pliers (the tool you can’t make in the wild), and perhaps even a radio. 

I try to notice who has access to certain rooms and who has keys to access our building.  Many of our office keys are sitting in a filing cabinet that is unlocked or on a shelf near the door.  This may be convenient but it is not very secure.  If you need to get into a room, look around for a public bookcase, small side table or filing cabinet and then look around to see if there is a key.  The maintenance, IT, and janitorial closets can often be a good source of keys, as can manager and secretary desks.  Look around and you may be able to avoid having to break in to a room.

The bathroom is the final destination on my supply expedition, where I would try to get at least one roll of white gold, toilet paper that is.  Other items I would find useful are: the hand sanitizer they keep in there, hand lotion and possibly even the smaller trash bags they store the trash can.  While these are not top priorities, white gold can in fact be traded for much more expensive items, as I found out in the Rockies when an extra roll got me a small maglite.  If your restroom has any sort of powder, this can be invaluable to control sweat and the chafing that comes along with it.
When you make the decision to go on your supply run within your office, you should be certain that you need to do so.  If there is just a little severe weather and you’ll be back at work in the morning, it is probably best not to get fired.  The above plans are for a major incident where I don’t plan on coming back to work for a while, if at all.  If there is a collapse, however, make your run quickly and get out.  Even if you already have a GHB, consider looking around your office for additional provisions you my need and prioritize getting them before leaving.  A few minutes spent preparing before your journey could provide the tools you need to survive.

Three Letters Re: Survival Bikes

Hey James;
I just want to comment regarding the article just posted about survival bikes.
 
It was a generally good article, but I have a few points of disagreement with the author.
 
The first point where I would disagree is in regard to the type of tubes he recommends.  His recommendation is bikes with Schrader valves as opposed to Presta.  I believe Presta valves to be far superior and more durable than the Schrader valve.  His reason for using the Schrader valve tube is that it is more universal.  While that is true, generally, most bicycle pumps have Presta valve adapters, and it is also possible to buy a small adapter that screws onto the Presta valve, that you can keep in your patch kit.  Another reason for picking the Presta valve tube is that most quality rims are drilled for Presta valves, not Schrader.   Presta valves also come with a small nut that tightens down and holds the Presta valve in a vertical position in relation to the rim.  This is important, because Schrader valves will shift, especially if the air pressure gets low and results in the rim actually cutting the valve stem.  Finally, a Schrader valve requires a plastic cap that keeps dirt and debris out of the valve body (which can cause the valve to leak).  These are easily lost.  A Presta valve can have a cap but it is not required, as there is a small nut, built into the valve, that tightens down and creates a very effective seal that prevents inadvertent release of air from the tube.   To sum it up, there is a reason why high-end bikes use Presta valved tubes almost exclusively: they are just better.
 
My second point is regarding suspension.  While his point regarding simplicity is well taken (and that is my reason for not having a suspension bike as my bug-out bike), there are some definite applications for at least a suspension fork on a bike: comfort.  A suspension makes for a much more comfortable ride and aids in control of the bike on rough terrain.  Riding a bike over a long distance can be brutal to your hands especially.  A suspension fork does much to alleviate this problem.  I would suggest simplicity in the fork design however, and would go for a fork that uses springs or elastomers over air or hydraulic….which will eventually have to have extensive maintenance to continue to function.   For a survival type bike, if rear suspension is desired, I would go for a suspension seat-post over a rear shock.  Again, virtually all modern bikes with full suspension utilize some form of hydraulic or air shock for the rear suspension.  That is a maintenance problem in a SHTF situation.
 
When it comes to tires, if you can afford them, get tires with a Kevlar bead that are foldable.  They take up much less space and are much lighter and easier to mount to the rims. They are also generally a better quality product.
 
When it comes to the bike’s components, (brakes, shifters, etc.), middle of the road is the way to go here.  You don’t want the top of the line components  (too expensive and sometimes what we call “stupid-light”), but you don’t want cheap.  Cheap components do not perform well, aren’t durable, hard to adjust and keep working and are just a pain in the neck in general.
 
A quality saddle is an absolute must.  And while this may be counterintuitive, you don’t want a big mushy sofa cushion type saddle.  It’s best to have a saddle with a moderate amount of padding that does not restrict movement.  You won’t find many of these in the $20 range. The $50-$70 is more likely. This is an area where you don’t want to cut corners, trust me.  A poorly designed saddle can put you in agony and actually do some pretty severe damage if you ride the bike a lot.  An anatomically designed saddle is a must here.
 
He mentions finding bikes at places like garage sales.  Not a bad idea, but one must exercise some caution here.  Yes, Chrome-Moly bikes are outstanding.  But some people don’t take proper care of them and the downside to Chrome-moly is rust and this can be hidden. I is not readily apparent to the naked eye.  So while older bikes can be a bargain, I’d steer away from any bike that has even a hint of rust or corrosion.  And while we are on this topic…another thing to watch out for would be damaged components..such as shifters and brakes.  These can be costly to repair, and can make a cheap bike into an expensive bike very quickly.  Some older bikes have components that are almost impossible to repair or find and the bike’s design may not accommodate the newer design components.   Bike maintenance can be learned, but some aspects of it are almost an art, especially when it comes to the bike shifting mechanism.  Another thing that you have to watch out for are badly worn chain-rings.  And then there is the matter of the wheels and hubs.  Sealed hubs are an absolute must.  The author mentioned quality rims and he is correct.  Used bikes can definitely be a good deal….you just have to be careful and know enough about bikes to be able to spot problems that the bike may have.  A cheap bike can turn into an expensive bike very quickly if you aren’t careful.
 
And I totally agree that big box department store bikes should be avoided at all costs.
 
I guess what I’m trying to say here, is that when one is considering a bike for a survival vehicle….especially if one is looking to use a bike as a bug-out vehicle, then cutting corners on the quality and condition of the bike is probably not a good idea.  I would compare it to the purchase of a cheap firearm.  You don’t want your firearm to fail you at a critical time.  And you don’t want the bike to fail you either.  This is another one of those cases where you truly do get what you pay for.  It is not necessary to take out a second mortgage to get a quality bike, but I think a person should not be afraid to spend $400-$500 for a good quality, recent model bike with decent components.  I recently sold a very nice Bianchi racing bike and then turned around a purchased a nice Hybrid (or city bike).  This bike is extremely versatile and I can even ride it off road, since I made sure that the rims and tires were adequate and designed for that.  I purchased the bike on sale from a reputable shop and only paid about $400 for it. (Normal retail was $600).  The key was, I purchased a bike that was not a popular color (brown)…but it was perfect for me, since it wasn’t flashy.  I immediately upgraded the saddle to a Brooks leather, which are incredibly comfortable once they are broken in.  And I recently purchased a trailer that is rated for 200 lb. load capacity.  It is my ultimate bug-out vehicle. What I would resort to if I had to get out of Dodge and fuel for my car was unavailable.  A person in reasonable condition can easily cover 50 miles a day on a bike and trailer combination like this.  And no person on foot could ever carry 200lbs on their back.  I could pack a lot of gear and food on this .  Both the bike and trailer will go in the back of my pickup.  So if the truck fails, or travel in a motor vehicle is impossible, then still have the bike.

Thanks James for your blog site and what you are doing.  I listen to you every chance I get on YouTube.  And I especially look forward to hearing you on Alex Jones.  I think you’ve been one of his best guests. – Mark L.

James:
Banjo gave a very good introduction to bikes as useful/usable transportation in an emergency situation by Banjo. The author is correct and covers most pertinent points well. Just a few additions from me:

If you can find one, a steel-framed bike is potentially preferable to an aluminum frame for several reasons, including greater flexibility and, thus, resilience on bad roads or backcountry. The most pertinent in a survival situation is that it is much easier to weld steel than aluminum. Aluminum is more prone than steel to crack at the joints (welds) and if you’re covering rough country, you may encounter an break that can be repaired relatively easily via welding, although soldering is preferred for steel — and that’s even easier than welding.

As someone noted recently on SurvivalBlog, bicycle tubing can be relatively easily dismantled. If you want to carry an emergency stash of silver dimes or quarters or cartridges, for example, you can wrap it in something to insulate it (keep it from rattling) and stuff it down the seat post, in the handlebars, etc. If it’s in the handlebars, it’ll be even easier to access. Put the same mass in each end so it doesn’t unbalance the bike’s steering.

If you plan to use a trailer, practice riding the bike with the trailer loaded, whether it’s with a child or supplies. And make sure some of the practice rides are done with the people you plan to evacuate with. I haul my daughter around in a bicycle trailer frequently. We live close to stores, my wife’s office and other necessary stops, so we commute by bike when possible. It’s free (now that I have the bicycle) and I get some exercise. Recently my wife and I tried to take a ride together to the grocery store and she repeatedly got in front of me and stopped quickly, not realizing that with an extra 60 pounds of weight behind me, I wasn’t able to stop as quickly as she could. Also, at times my 3-year-old has managed to unbuckle her restraints, open the front of the trailer, and attempt to jump out. Plan ahead, know what you’re getting yourself into, and remediate as necessary. I am currently working on a fix to the child buckle situation. That kid is ingenious.

One minor correction: Banjo says tire rubber “actually ages just from exposure to air, so if you are really serious you can put a bunch of tires, tubes, and rim bands in a 55-gallon drum or something with nitrogen (sold at car-parts places to fill tires with) or at least an oxygen absorber.” Actually, bicycle racers sometimes purchase a stockpile of tires and intentionally let them age in a dark, dry environment. Aged tires are much more puncture resistant and long-lasting. Some of their elasticity goes away and they may not have the same non-slick qualities as a new tire, but they last. On my most recent bike, for example, I left one old tire mounted and replaced the other immediately due to obvious damage. Since then, I have replaced the new one twice due to wear, and fixed about 12 punctures on tubes for it. The old tire, which was probably 15-20 years old, hasn’t had a problem of any sort.

If nothing else, a bicycle is good transportation. I’ve personally done up to 140 miles per day on one while touring, but that was 26 years ago when I was significantly older. But if all else fails, you can also use the chain drive much as you would the power-take-off (PTO) on a tractor, to power a grain mill or many other tools, as JWR mentioned in his novel Patriots. I’ve even seen one used to operate a blender, if that’s high on your list of priorities.

Best of luck. Buy something high quality if possible, use it often, and learn how to change a tire. If you live in an urban area, buy something ugly but mechanically sound so it won’t get stolen, then get out there and ride. – JDC in Mississippi

CPT Rawles,
Though I enjoyed Banjo’s article, I feel the article on survival bikes was a bit too narrow-sighted in scope. First, Presta valves are a completely viable option in a Shrader world. Bike shops regularly carry brass and aluminum (which weigh next to nothing) Presta-Shrader adapters. These cost upwards of a
dollar and can be left on the bike so that you’re never unable to fill at a gas station.
Secondly, Tire sizes (fat or skinny) have also come around. 29″ bikes have been making a hit the past few years. The extra few inches really seems to make a difference in the ride, especially over uneven
terrain. If availability is an issue, buy several and keep them around.

Finally, don’t overlook Craigslist. I’ve found plenty of deals (like my own hard tail 29″) for a third of the original price. Many people rushed out to get the latest 29″ bike, and it has sat in their garage
since.

Thank you, – Jim in Wyoming

Economics and Investing:

H.L. suggested this at Zero Hedge: Charts Of The Day: Greek Unemployment Hits Escape Velocity

Yishai sent: Oklahomans can Buy Gold and Silver Coins and Bars without Paying Sales Tax

When The “PRICE” of Gold or Silver Means Nothing? [JWR Adds: FWIW, I can remember Howard J. Ruff foreseeing this situation. He described it in his Ruff House television show, back in the late 1970s.]

Items from The Economatrix:

Service Industries In US Unexpectedly Rose In November

Worst Since WWII:  50% Unemployment:  Over Six Million Teens And Young Adults Are Out Of Work And Not In School

Confiscation, Price Suppression And The True Gold & Silver Price 

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Who shall lay any thing to the charge of God’s elect? [It is] God that justifieth.
Who [is] he that condemneth? [It is] Christ that died, yea rather, that is risen again, who is even at the right hand of God, who also maketh intercession for us.
Who shall separate us from the love of Christ? [shall] tribulation, or distress, or persecution, or famine, or nakedness, or peril, or sword?
As it is written, For thy sake we are killed all the day long; we are accounted as sheep for the slaughter.
Nay, in all these things we are more than conquerors through him that loved us.
For I am persuaded, that neither death, nor life, nor angels, nor principalities, nor powers, nor things present, nor things to come,
Nor height, nor depth, nor any other creature, shall be able to separate us from the love of God, which is in Christ Jesus our Lord.” – Romans 8:33-39 (KJV)

Notes from JWR:

A follow-up on the tragic accidental death of Chuck Lamb (the husband of Jenny of The Last Frontier blog.) A Special Memorial Fund has been set up by Wells Fargo bank, to benefit Jenny and her two young sons. The account number is 7348691358. It is in the name “Chuck Lamb Donation Account”. You can make a donation via any Wells Fargo Bank branch.

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Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Common Sense Cooking in a Grid Down World, by Linda in North Carolina

My husband tells it the best: the utility power was out for miles around after the transformers blew. Driving up to our home in a darkened neighborhood after a harrowing commute, our house shined with soft glow outside of solar lights along the driveway and in the windows, candle light flickered inside, food was cooking out back on what appeared to be a stack of blocks, music from a wind up radio played in the background and my wife handed me a steaming mug of hot chocolate as I walked in. No generator in use….no power….yet warmth and reassuring life in a grid down neighborhood! “Lord, am I glad I married a prepper”!

Massive snow/ice storms, utility interruptions,  hurricane aftermath, solar flares, EMPs….many different problems can cause serious and lasting power outages. Thinking about having a plan….and having a real plan that works and that you have tested is different. When responsible for food preparation, you have to Plan to “Never Fail”!!!

We all know of the massive “bug out plans” in the event the grid goes down. Unfortunately, most of us who live in more populated areas such as suburbia would not be able to implement such a plan due to the traffic gridlock and high security risks that would occur within minutes. Being trapped on the highway exposes needless vulnerabilities for short term (weeks) of rustic food preparation. Setting up now and staging in needed skills and food stuffs will help you to transition into primitive skills our grandmothers were experts in.

Call it “Short Term Transition Crisis Cooking”. In every situation, the first stage can be the most frightening and you will feel overwhelmed. Face that fear head on and work through it a step at a time calmly. With a little planning, scheduling and advanced preparation, you can keep a regular nutritious and comforting meal schedule. You will calm the jangled nerves of all family members by your preparation.

Establish a Routine, then expand it. Families exist better with an established daily routine. Set meal times, then work backwards to ensure your preparations are in order and ready and all is done before darkness descends. Our grandmothers were marvelous at not wasting energy, food resources and keeping everything on track. Any bored or restless youngster was instantly put to work helping prepare for the next meal or tomorrow’s meals. Without modern conveniences we all take for granted, there will be a lot more manual preparation tasks to be done. Learning by doing will also teach your youngsters better self reliance; a mind set skill that is vastly needed.

Make a list for instant response for the first three days while you adapt to your new reality! Include how you will cook, what you will cook and how you will clean up. It matters equally!

Know your cooking resource, and know better it’s limitations! I hear many urbanites touting their piped gas stoves which are wonderful. However, many piped natural gas systems rely on electric pumps to move the resource. Depending on your utility’s emergency plan, you may have interruptions due to location, pumping limitations, physical damage (earthquake) etc. I highly recommend having a few back up plans. Practice every chance you have now. You’ll thank me later!

For example, our cooking plan is as follows:

Cooking Resource

Stage

Availability

Limitations

Flame ignition/heat  source. Have as many options as you can muster!

All

Ranges from weather proof pocket matches or lighter to other fire starters, self ignition for grills etc. Solar

Weather, skill, tools to start fire with.

Gas Grill or charcoal grill

Immediate/crisis
Most of us are familiar with grills so can instantly bring a meal together from the freezer etc with little stress in the hours following a crisis.

175 Lbs on hand in cylinders

20-10 lb bags of charcoal stored in metal garbage cans with lids.

Weather. Not frugal for long term cooking or boiling of water, soups etc.

Piped natural gas stove

Immediate

Unknown

Disruptions of pumping by utility, physical damage from earthquake etc

Canned heat, sterno etc. camping style cooking

Immediate

20 hours worth

Temperatures hard to regulate, good for quick warm ups or small meals. Canned heat can leak and must be checked. Not good for ultra large meals.

Volcano Stove

Long term. Medium investment

Unlimited only by fuel such as wood or charcoal

Learning to use, regulating heat source. Recommend starting with hard to burn foods such as soups or stews, stir-fries and advance as skill and familiarity increases

Rocket Stove, either metal or made of bricks/blocks
*Recommend two! Comes in handy for cleanups, cooking more than one large item or even laundry.

Long term. Tiny investment to build from cans/bucket or used blocks or bricks. Many plans available on youtube.com and online.

Unlimited only by fuel such as wood or charcoal. Uses miserly amounts of wood per meal. Regular use extends other precious resources

Weather can be a problem with high winds/ pouring rain or pelting snow. Harder to use after dark.
*set boundaries/barricades for children and pets

Solar ovens

Long term. Investment varies from home made versions for a few dollars to ultra sophisticated models. Plans to build your own available widely on line

Unknown. Limited by amount of sunlight.

Extremely slow process for some cooked items depending on time of year and how often you must redirect oven. Extended poor weather impacts ability to cook. There is a learning curve to using one and making enough variety during sunlit hours. Volume of food cooked can be a limiting factor too.

Now for the meal planning itself:

Plan time for each meal to “build” to the next meal. For example, when cooking dinner, use the residual heat to start that pot of beans or rice rehydrating for tomorrow. If cooking pasta for dinner, I stir fry dry pasta in a little oil at lunch to enhance the flavor before adding water/broth using the last heat of the lunch cook time. I personally cook from bulk supply, so when I cook oatmeal for breakfast, I use the extra leftovers in bread for the dinner meal etc to avoid waste. (you can set up your recipes this way too) If you are a “store bought” kind of cook, stock up on the large sized pre-packed soup mixes in different varieties. Having these ready to go will only require some type of hot bread to be fried, baked etc. Reduces stress….for the cook and those eating.

Plan for more hot food than needed in the first weeks of any high stress time. I can not stress this enough. During these first days there will be many demands on your time, and bringing a hot delicious meal on time to the family will be a huge comfort.  The first week is the hardest! Start with tried and true items that are hard to burn (like a simple soup) and build your skill set as you evolve. Nothing breaks a cook’s nerves worse than choruses of “I’m hungry” in between meals and ever circling herds of family foraging while you are trying to work! Setting up a stockpot of constantly low simmer soup will help deal with the high stress, technology void and fear of the unknown and instantly supply a cup to anyone hungry in between meals. I recommend a slow cooker method such as a cinder block rocket stove so that few resources are used for hours of cooking. (good to add any leftovers into as well!)You can also have a constant pot/kettle of hot water on the ready with one of these. Our grandmothers knew this lesson and always had a soup pot on the stove and a kettle filled and ready. It brings normal into an otherwise surreal situation.

An often overlooked item is clean up. Paper plates are wonderful, but chances are will not last. Establish how you will clean up after meal time. Personally when starting the meal, I set a large older dishpan on the second rocket stove to start heating for wash up. A dish pan is wide and not so deep, and add a little soap and dishes as needed to begin soaking. When full pull off the fire (add another one) and wash, then rinse in cold water. Use the final pot of water to wash your dishcloths/sponges to hang dry, rinse any food residue near your cooking area, clean tables/counters etc. so that you can begin set up for the next meal making it easier to start over. (If needed you can add that last hot wash water onto any waiting laundry too for presoaking)

Most of us have endured utility interruption….we can overcome this by creatively planning and not just knowing our limitations…but by showcasing them! Practice your plans and experiment with your cooking methods. In times of stress, we all need the comfort emotionally and physically of timely meals or a hot drink, even a plate of rice crispy treats! Choose to cherish these skills you are learning, and face the challenges with a smile and cheerful outlook! With a few resources and practice, you provide inspiration and encouragement, uplifting the spirits of those around you.

Letter Re: Making Our Bug Out Bags Work: Shaving Weight

CPT Rawles,
In reference to the article Making Our Bug Out Bags Work: Shaving Weight, I applaud the efforts of Joshua H. taking the opportunity to hike 22 miles in three days, however, without any other information, his resulting experience is not surprising.  As a fellow Army officer, you can attest that ruck marching is essentially a practiced art.  One builds up to those distances and weights.  Cutting weight is good, but only those items not deemed necessary.  Don’t cut weight because of a lack of practice carrying a weighted down backpack.  Practice carrying that weight, and build up the weight you can carry, over progressively longer distances.  Otherwise, you will find that you have moved 22 miles in three days, and that is the end of your trip due to medical reasons.  Slowly build up your distances and weight, keeping a standard 15 minute mile time on flat ground. – CPT D.

Four Letters Re: Coban Wrap a Must for Medical Kits

JWR,
Thank you for all your efforts. I pray they are never needed but fear otherwise. We run a safety training and supply company specializing in custom first aid/survival kits for various customers. We agree that Coban is wonderful stuff. A hint for the budget minded preppers use a vet supply house or feed store and buy “vet wrap”– same stuff at lower price. – A.K.S.

Jim:
Coban is not a panacea for your wound dressing needs.  While it does offer self-adherence,  ease of use, durability, availability, selection of sizes and colors, etc.  There are a few flaws with this material.  The first and most dangerous is while this material is self adhering, it is also progressive in nature, e.g. it will continue to tighten over the first few minutes on it’s own.  This means there is a learning curve to the proper application of Coban and serially (several times) monitoring to ensure the extremity distal (further from the heart) has not been subject to neuro-vascular compromise, this is easily done by determining light touch sensation, capillary refill, pulse and movement.  Second, it is not typically re-usable nor as durable as a simple Ace bandage.  

I have used both daily as a Physician Assistant in both Orthopedics and Emergency Medicine and both have their advantages/disadvantages, but if I had to chose, I would pack a few aces. – Charles T.

 

Hi,
I love Coban! We use it at Appleseed [rifle marksmanship training] weekends to hold pipe insulation to rifle stocks to build up cheek rests. It is great to bind anything you don’t want to mar with duct tape. We purchase it by the case from veterinarian supply houses, it is much cheaper and comes in MANY fun colors. Look for it as vet wrap. – Elizabeth B. in Colorado

Mr. Rawles,
I just wanted to echo Frank L.’s enthusiasm for the class of medical products generally known as self-adhering bandages.  In 2010 I earned my EMT certification for prep skills and I work in the EMS world on the side.  We use the self-adhering bandages for many applications.  They not only perform compression, but will also adhere when wet.  They are excellent for holding a dressing in place and are superior to medical tape for such applications.  I helped provide medical coverage for a church youth camp at a beach with 2700+ students and another 700+ adults.  We used a case of this stuff for sprains, lacerations, abrasions, and holding ice packs in place.  I keep several rolls in my personal medical gear at all times.  Avoid storing in high heat as prolonged exposure to hot temps will degrade the adhesive.  Thanks. – Old School