Is it Evolution or an Alternative Semi-Auto Personal Defense Rifle?, by Racker

Once again, we have people using a tragedy to push personal agendas; they have little respect for the victims of those tragedies or their respective families and friends. These kinds of people maneuver to develop hysteria to use like a blanket masking their real intent and many of them have been sitting on the edge of their seats with prepared slogans and programs awaiting such tragic opportunities (i.e., “You never want a serious crisis to go to waste.” – Rahm Emanuel, Chicago’s current Mayor and President Obama’s former Chief of Staff and mouthpiece). Meanwhile, as citizens and as proper planners, we must work with what is available or what we have and ensure we are in a high level of preparedness as well as constantly improving our posture within our means.  

This is not an article against the idea of a 5.56mm carbine or rifle. These are personal choice issues and that is a discussion for another time as we will be talking about a larger bore weapon here.

While we would all like to just go out and buy our weapons of choice, with all the current hoopla in Washington and other quarters now over high-capacity magazine weapons, maybe we can examine and improve an older design to accomplish similar needs at a cost savings. Since you may have one or more fancy 20-30 round magazine shooting, semi-automatic military type rifles, you may also have a need for additional long guns in .308/7.62 caliber. Bolt guns have their place and if that is what you have or can afford now, it will perform (the Mauser and Mosin Nagant are tough rifles, the Springfield ’03 is a jewel, and even some used modern bolt guns are amazingly accurate).

You can go one step better and either use an existing older semi-automatic weapon you may have or obtain one that you can either work on (skills provided) or obtain and have converted into a like-new weapon. I am talking about updating the venerable M1 Garand, and, before I hear howls of pain about making modifications to a collectible surplus service rifle, none of these modifications cannot be ‘undone.’ You can pick up a well used rack grade or ‘Bubba’ M1 and make it into a relatively new rifle. By the way, I have never heard of the M1 Garand being referred to as one of that mythical semi-auto ‘assault weapons.’ And the M1 just feels good in you hands; much better than a HK or AK (in all honesty, with the smooth bump in front of the Trigger Guard, it feels better than a M14 with a 20-round magazine).

As a Marine, I was issued M1s three times for duty. I carried, shot, drilled, and cleaned them a lot. While it had a smaller cartridge capacity than the M14 and later, the M16 (both then with 20-round magazines); I really doubt anyone that fired them would say that the M1 is not effective. For comparison, I continue to own and shoot stock and modified M1s, and I have owned and fired M1As, ARs and I have carried and fired other common semi-autos. I know the M1 can still function in a serious social situation and I would not feel under-armed. For those who have been shot at, not having to balance over a high magazine mono-pod, the M1 even has some advantages.

Making modifications to the M1 are not new. During WWII, the US government made up some examples of a shortened Garand and called it the “T-26.” The Italians used former Winchester M1 machinery to make a shorter, magazine equipped BM59 version of a M1. Later, others called a shortened M1, the ‘Tanker.’ Anyway, this is a shortened barrel piece and that makes it easier to handle (The Springfield Armory [not the US Armory] later carried this idea to their M1A and call them the ‘Scout’ and ‘SOCOM’ models).

While I am sure I am not the only one to do so, the following suggestions are based upon my personal experience in building such a weapon and the study conducted before I started the project.

While the M1 is a great weapon, there are some changes that I suggest can improve it for most situations. In its original form, it has a 24” barrel with the gas system hanging at the end.

  • Changing or replacing the barrel down to about 18” makes the rifle lighter and very easy to handle, particularly in closer quarters.
  • While you are changing the barrel, change it to .308 Winchester (ask your smith if they can chamber it for both .308 and 7.62). No one hit by this round will be able to tell it is not a .30 caliber M2 and.308/7.62 ammo is easier to find and cheaper. If you do convert to a different caliber, it is a good idea to etch the caliber on the Rear Sight Cover to make it easy to see (I suggest you add, “M1 PDR” on one line and a, “.308/7.62” on the next so it can be read from behind the stock).
  • Add a Smith Enterprise, Inc. ‘Good Iron M1 Garand Muzzle Brake’ or similar quality brake if you desire. This reduces recoil.
  • The normal M1 stock works fine but, if you can find one, get a BM59 Nigerian or M14E2 stock that have a pistol grip and modify it to fit the M1 (I would really like to see Boyds’ or someone else make such a stock for the M1 as it improves the carry features and shouldering of the stock – I think it would sell well also). I have the former and, while I had the opportunity, I had the stock bedded. I have even seen a chopped M1 stock converted for a M16 collapsible stock with a bolt from the receiver area and good Epoxy.
  • Add a recoil pad. If you go with the Pachmayr Decelerator or Limbsaver Slip-on recoil pads, you can still use the hollow stock to store the military or OTIS clearing gear. Both pad brands work well. You will be glad you did.
  • While you are doing this, have your smith go through the piece and replace any questionable worn parts with new ones.
  • If you do not have one, trade for a newer stamped rather than milled Trigger Guard. They seem to work better in modified M1s.
  • Refinish the whole weapon. Parkerizing is fine but there are a lot of great finishes out there now. And, like ordering a new pickup, you can pick colors as well.
  • Add an extra fitted Operating Rod Spring to your parts kit so you will know what a new one looks like when you need to replace it, and the usual spares such as firing pin, extractor, extractor spring and plunger, ejector, ejector spring, etc. (almost every smith has a slightly different list of spares needed).
  • One thing more, I suggest you try John Holbrook’s Thumbsaver Device. This changes the Manual of Arms to more of a M14 style as the clip will only eject when you wish it to do so and it allows you to single-load rounds into the clip (a great feature). I changed the Manual of Arms to bringing up a fresh clip with the left hand and hitting the Catch Latch (clip release) to send the empty clip on its way as I complete the topping of the piece with the fresh clip; once learned, it is easy with either left or right hand. I do not see reloading time as an issue. You can change back the Operating Rod Catch if you desire. It is that easy. 

A pistol grip stock on the M1 improves the handling; it is easier to control the weapon during reloading, with recoil management, and in general handling. The M1 has always been a favorite shooter for many of us and these changes certainly do not harm the handling characteristics. To me, these modifications make it easier to acquire and stay on target.

You can add a forward 1913 rail to the barrel if you so desire and you then may add a low powered scope or red dot sight just like any other modern weapon. There is enough meat on the M1 stock that you can add QD Millett or Uncle Mike’s types sling swivels for your 1¼” web sling or ‘stylin’ sling if you do not like the positions of the GI swivels. 

If you do not want to use a 1913 rail or the M1 wood Upper Hand Guard, you can cut and fit a fiberglass M14 Upper Hand Guard there (the one without the slots). It is lighter and you can spray paint it. You really do not need a Front Hand Guard for the shorter M1. (While on the topic of what is needed, study the issue of a 7.62 bullet block inside the Trigger Housing. I have a block inside one .308 rifle M1 but not in the other. I do not think we need the block if you identify caliber on the Rear Sight Cover.)

You will need a lot of M1 en bloc clips but I find a .308 M1 is not as fussy about clips as some .30 caliber M1s. And with some 20 round mags selling for over $40, three M1 clips together holding 24 rounds MAY cost you $3. I would start to stop collecting the clips at 200. They won’t get cheaper.

The M1 clips are easy to carry. The US Rifle Belt, M1910-1918 (and later versions) used in WWI & II, Korea, and Vietnam (or reproductions) works just fine. “Olongapo Outfitters” makes a ‘Grab-and-Go’ M1 clip carrier and clip pouches. I like their M1 chest rig. You can also use modern pouches to carry the clips.

M1 cloth bandoleers are still available and a great way to keep your ammo ready in loaded en bloc clips (remember, no mag springs to worry about); the 7.62 ammo in the clips work fine in the .30 caliber (.30-06) pockets. Just put your loaded clips in bandoleers and put them in .30 caliber ammo cans – ready to go.

Personally, I feel a shorter ‘new’ Garand PDR is easier to conceal and extra ammo can be carried in a discrete carrier that I tend to favor for now.

If you know someone who is good with a sewing machine, you can take the WWII M1 Carbine/Garand double mag pouch and exchange the short straps on the back by sewing some strapping material and Velcro to allow you to put a new adjustable pouch for two M1 clips on the stock. Sticking another clip in the sling will allow you to carry 24 rounds on the piece. Not bad and it has a great ‘cool’ factor (now called a “CDI” or ‘Chicks Dig It’ thing).

Fulton Armory, Warbirds and DGR make/rebuild these rifles and I am sure others do as well. Springfield Armory (the commercial company – not the old US Armory) used to make new ones and you may be able to find one. You can also find makers that will convert them to M14 mags but then we are getting back to the ‘bad magazine’ issue. Just pay attention to the weapon’s pedigree to ensure you do not get a two-piece welded together receiver made up decades ago. A known and respected dealer/smith is always you best bet for these pieces. Whether you buy one new or have one made up, as with any quality weapon, check reputation, pay attention and ask questions.

I have a beautifully stocked M1/.308 rebuild in Tennessee (by DGR) and a BM59 Nigerian stocked piece like the one described in this article I had rebuilt in Arkansas. Both probably shoot better than I do and I have had a scope and red dot mounted on the latter. I am using a red dot right now. They both are as reliable as any weapon I have ever shot and I do not feel under gunned with either. Since I live on the left coast, I choose this weapon system because this state does not like ‘BAD magazines’ (you say it like, “BAD DOG!”)

When California passed its original “Assault Weapon” ban, the M1 Garand was NOT on that list. Neither was the SKS as they both used a clip to insert rounds into the weapon. We can build upon this capability and use it to our advantage. (By the way, having only 8-rounds and inserting them into the rifle was NOT John Garand’s idea; the US Army made him do it that way — he wanted to use detachable magazines).

For ammo, try to stick with 168 gr. and under. The 7.62mm is probably better but the two I have are chambered for .308/7.62. I use 150 gr. FMJ ball rounds as a rule.

This new M1 PDR is just that: a Personal Defense Rifle with the capability to perform most of the duties of a newer military 7.62 long gun (I doubt I will be making a bayonet charge but mine retains that ‘nasty’ stud as well). The original design is a classic, it is well known as ultra reliable, rugged, and for its accuracy since they are equipped with excellent iron sights that may be the best military service rifle sights ever designed. Once you use them, you can normally hit a target at almost any reasonable range. The US military M1 receivers are tougher than Woodpecker lips. You are not using a lesser piece if you start with a military rack grade M1, US military parts and build it up. If you can buy a Rack or Field grade M1 from the Civilian Marksmanship Program, you can keep your initial cost down and still have all the required parts. Until you can upgrade it, it is still a great buy and rifle. (The CMP, I’m informed, will soon be selling some Greek M1 belts. The prices should be good.)

Price wise, I frequently note that people buy a favorite 20-round shooting long gun and then spend a lot of extra cash tuning it with extra work, magazines and parts to make it a custom piece. I suggest folks pick their piece and then do a price comparison with a Garand modified to what I am suggesting here. Plus, we do not have the magazine issue that the hysterical negative gun/magazine types go on about; we are just converting an old weapon into a personal defense rifle.

If you were to choose this as a project, get a well used M1, the other parts you want to put on it, as you look around for a good Garand mechanic or shop specializing in the M1 ‘Tanker.’ Check different shops for work and prices and the time required to complete the work before you send it off.

I challenge anyone to take a M1 and do a shoot off against another prime carry large bore piece. If you practice, you will find 8-round clips compare well in shooting…say 48 rounds of ammo. Once you shoot such a string and gain some confidence, I think the number of rounds in the rifle will become less important than your ability to quickly reload it. Besides, it is another opportunity for practice.

By the way, if I were still a working county cop, I think such a maneuverable M1 PDR with a mounted red dot would be a great patrol unit or ‘go-to’ rifle.

“In my opinion, the M1 rifle is the greatest battle implement ever devised” – General George S. Patton, Jr., 1945. Mr. Garand designed a truly great rifle. Maybe these suggestions are just an evolution like the M14 and its smaller version, the Mini-14. While the M1s son is still in service with our military, a M1 PDR would serve anyone well and better than many alternatives.

One of the neat things about this nation is that we can still make these kinds of decisions; we get to make those choices. In this spirit, I will leave you with a great quote I feel is appropriate at this time: “The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.” – Thomas Jefferson.

Semper Fi and Semper Gumby!

News From The American Redoubt:

In Wyoming: Supercomputer Opening Caps Years of Effort

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Buck Knives has completed their relocation to Post Falls, Idaho. They now offer tours of their factory.

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Idaho’s minimum wage now even lower than neighboring states

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Reader R.B.S. forwarded a link to an Idaho job that you probably won’t see elsewhere. Oh, but this might explain it: Sage grouse protection plan would set aside 1.7 million acres in West.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Joe Ordinary Voortrekker sent some news from South Africa, where sadly a private citizen owning more than 200 rounds of loaded ammunition of any one caliber is illegal: Ammunition, food and medical supplies found in Sasolburg house

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And, lest we comfortably feel “Oh, but it can never happen here”, consider: When Citizen Vigilantes Busted Food Hoarders

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Steve H. pointed me to one of SouthernPrepper1’s videos, wherein he embraces MURS band radios and DakotaAlerts, for retreat security.

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Slate: Earth May Have Been Hit by a Gamma Ray Burst 1,200 Years Ago

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“How complacent we become when we sit secure, hedged round by laws and protections a government may provide!  How soon we forget that but for these governments and laws, there would be naught but savagery, brutality and starvation! For our age-old enemies await us always, just beyond our thin walls.  Hunger, thirst and cold lie waiting there, and forever among us are those would loot, rape and maim, rather than behave as civilized men. If we sit secure this hour, this day, it is because the thin walls of the law stand between us and evil.” – Louis L’Amour, Fair Blows the Wind, p. 5-6)

Asthmanefrin: A New Twist on a Life-Saving Medicine, by Cynthia J. Koelker, MD

Ever since Primatene Mist was taken off the market a year ago, SurvivalBlog readers have asked about a replacement for this potentially life-saving over-the-counter drug.    Now there is one, in the form of Asthmanefrin.
If you don’t have asthma, should you care?  Definitely so.
Although the drug is officially only indicated for asthma, in the event of societal collapse, it may be the only effective and available treatment for:

  • Serious allergic reactions to foods, drugs, stinging/biting insects, or other substances
  • Widespread hives
  • Anaphylactic swelling of the face, lips, or throat (or angioedema)
  • Dropping blood pressure
  • Narrowed airways due to infection, inflammation, COPD, or exposure

If you don’t have any of these problems, you surely know someone who does. Or maybe you have a young child who may one day suffer from croup.  Or perhaps you occasionally contract acute bronchitis.  Or possibly you’ll be around a campfire where you accidentally inhale poison ivy smoke.  Any of these conditions may require an (adrenergic) bronchodilator, and the only available such medicine over-the-counter is Asthmanefrin.  Anyone who has struggled with asthma in the middle of the night can tell you why a rescue inhaler is worth its weight in gold. 
When the FDA banned the manufacture of Primatene Mist as of December 31, 2011 (due to the CFC propellant and concerns about the ozone layer) asthmatics were left with no OTC alternative to prescription rescue inhalers.  Although Armstrong Pharmaceuticals does hope to release a new version of Primatene Mist using an approved hydrofluoroalkane (HFA) propellant, no date has yet been set. 

The new product, Asthmanefrin, contains 11.25 mg of racepinephrine per 0.5 ml vial, in a solution equivalent to 1% epinephrine.  Epinephrine is the same medication contained in the Epi-Pen, the well-known injection for bee sting and other allergic reactions.  Although inhaled epinephrine is most active in the airways, some of it enters the bloodstream, which delivers it to the rest of the body, hence its ability to raise blood pressure, accelerate the heart rate, and relieve the vascular-related swelling common to hives and allergic reactions. 
These potential benefits are also sometimes considered side-effects, which may be dangerous to patients with heart disease, hyperthyroidism, high blood pressure, tremor, and other nervous conditions.  Doctors don’t like over-the-counter epinephrine products due to 1) the potential harm they may cause in susceptible individuals, and 2) the potential delay they may cause in seeking needed professional care.  However, in a young, otherwise healthy population epinephrine is generally safe.

The product insert includes dosing recommendations for adults and children down to the age of 4 years old.  For adults, one 0.5 ml vial of solution is placed in the EZ Breathe Atomizer, with a recommendation of not more than 12 inhalations in 24 hours.  By comparison, Primatene Mist inhaler delivers 0.22 mg of epinephrine per inhalation, also with a limit of 12 inhalations per day. 

The Starter Kit contains 10 vials plus one Atomizer and costs approximately $50, with the 30-vial Refill Kit priced at about $25, a small price to save a life. 

About the Author: Cynthia J. Koelker, MD is SurvivalBlog’s Medical Editor. Some in-depth additional information on using over-the-counter medications like prescription drugs is available free on her web site at ArmageddonMedicine.net. 

Pat’s Product Review: The Power Pot

Living in the country, is really great, but there are a few problems that one can expect. One is loss of electrical power – especially in the winter months, where I live – in Western Oregon. We have a lot of rain, and it causes trees to fall across power lines, knocking out power, and we lose our power at times, for days. I have a back-up generator, and I use it to keep my refrigerator and freezer cold, so I don’t lose any foods. I don’t have a need to watch tv all the time, or surf the ‘net, so I don’t use my back-up generator power for that. However, I do like to keep my cell phone charged, as does my wife, and daughter who lives next door. I hate to waste a lot of precious gas running the generator to charge-up some cell phones, so this can be a problem.
 
I was recently sent a review sample Power Pot. To be honest, I wasn’t even sure what the Power Pot was, until I read the instructions. I though it might have been a strange-looking camp cup for cooking soup or heating water. Well, it does heat water, but not the way you think. The Power Pot can be filled with water, and placed over a small fire – and you don’t need a large fire – once the water heats up you can connect your cell phone to the power cord from the Power Pot, and charge you cell phone. What? Yes, you simply boil water, and you can charge your cell phone, rechargeable batteries, GPS systems, lights and more. You can charge a wide variety of of USB devices with up to 5W of power. This is all possible though Thermo-Electric Generator (TEG) technology.
 
Let’s back up a little bit, why would anyone want to haul around a little pot in their backpack or BOB, out in the wilderness? Well, there’s good reason to haul the Power Pot. Suppose you are traveling and get stuck on a back road in the winter, and you can’t get out? You cell phone battery goes dead, and you can’t reach anyone. I’ve heard this story numerous times on the tv news – someone gets lost or stranded, and try calling for help, and their cell phone battery dies just when they need it the most. Not a good thing! You can even pack the Power Pot in your glove box or the trunk of your car, and you won’t know it’s there, until you need it the most. You can carry fuel, or something like a small camp stove, and once you gather fuel, you can get a fire going, and add water to the Power Pot, and once it starts boiling, plug you cell phone into the heat resistant power cord – and in no time, you’ll have your mobile devices charged and ready to go.
 
One of the main things you need to be aware of is that, you can NOT run the Power Pot without water in the cup, if you do, you’ll ruin the TEG junctions, rendering it irreparably “dead.”. You must keep an eye on the water level, don’t let the Power Pot run dry, ever! How can it actually work as advertised? Well, I’ll tell you what, I took an old cell phone, with a completely dead battery, and inside of about an hour and a half, the batter was fully charged. Yes! I did have to add more and more water to the Power Pot, but it wasn’t that big of a deal to do. And, it doesn’t take long for the Power Pot to start generating power – once it heats up, we’re talking 10-60 seconds, and you can power-up you cell phone or other mobile device. No, you’re not going to charge it in 10-60 seconds, but you can “start” the charging process that fast.
 
I questioned the durability of the power cable, coming from the Power Pot to the cell phone I was charging – how would the heat affect the power cord? Well, the cord cable has a heat-resistant silicone fiberglass protective layer that can withstand temps as high as 600-dgrees. Still, if I wanted to make sure my Power Pot keeps working, I’m going to try and keep the power cord away from direct flames from a camp fire. Can you cook with the Power Pot – probably, but it’s not a good idea, you might damage it and it would be of no use to you when you need to charge a mobile device. The maximum power generated by the Power Pot is 5W – and as low as 1W with low heat – and this is more than enough to power many mobile devices.
 
The only drawback I can see with the Power Pot is – water! If you happen to break down, or get lost in the wilderness, and there isn’t any water source, you can’t use the Power Pot. However, if you are prepared, you will have water in your BOB or in your vehicle. Failing that, you will have to find a source of water.
 
The Power Pot works very well. It comes with a lifetime guarantee, and if you follow the instructions, it will give you a lifetime of trouble-free power. Now the price. The Power Pot is almost $150 – yes, that’s a bit spendy. However, how much would you pay, if your car broke down, on a back road, in the middle of winter, and you needed to charge you cell phone, so you could call for help? Yes, that’s what I thought: you’d pay just about anything to be able to charge your cell phone or GPS. I believe the Power Pot is a very worthwhile investment for any Prepper. I don’t want to run my back-up generator, for hours, just to charge my cell phone, and was all that fuel. I can go in my carport, and start a small fire, and put the Power Pot on, with water, and charge my cell phone that way, and save my gas for my generator for more important tasks. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

Editor’s Disclaimer (per FTC File No. P034520): I accept cash-paid advertising. To the best of my knowledge, as of the date of this posting, none of my advertisers that sell the products mentioned in this article have solicited me or paid me to write any reviews or endorsements, nor have they provided me any free or reduced-price gear in exchange for any reviews or endorsements. I am not a stock holder in any company. SurvivalBlog does, however, benefit from sales through the SurvivalBlog Amazon Store. If you click on one of our Amazon links and then “click through” to order ANY product from Amazon.com (not just the ones listed in our catalog), then we will earn a modest sales commission.

Letter Re: Question on the Utility of Garmin Rino 655t Receivers

Brother Rawles,
I read your blog every night and appreciate what you stand for, and the way you live your life. My question is on the Garmin Rino 655t GPS. My family is large, but we all live somewhat close to one another just outside of Cleveland Ohio. Although this isn’t optimal, the majority of us work as either firemen or policemen, so relocation would be difficult. We are trying to find the perfect radio communication system that our family could use during a SHTF scenario to communicate during a bug out to the compound. I have tried the MURS radios, as well as Midlands GMRS radios and have found them insufficient. During testing in our area, they only were able to transmit around a mile and a half. That being said, we have been looking for alternatives and I ran across these units. Although expensive, they have peer to peer GPS capabilities, allowing us to at least see where each other are. Even if we are too far to transmit, we would be able to find each other during the carnage. My question is whether or not the GPS capabilities on these Garmin units would still work during a grid down scenario? The units have a lot of other bells and whistles that would be of value including preloaded road maps and topographical maps, but if the GPS was incapacitated during a SHTF event,  there are much more affordable alternatives one can purchase to get maps and weather alerts.

Keep doing what your doing. Your work has put me on the path of clarity, and my eyes are now “open”. – Andrew G.

JWR Replies: I’ve been told that GPS accuracy would be unaffected for at least a year, even if there is a total societal collapse in North America–that is, of course IF that societal collapse were not caused by a Carrington Event Scale solar storm! (That would wipe out most satellites.) But if there is a truly global collapse and there are no corrections from the ground control stations on any continent (very unlikely), then the accuracy of the GPS system would start to gradually degrade, within hours.

Recipe of the Week:

Chris P.’s Ranch Stew

This is a family recipe I wanted to share. This stuff is great, especially in the colder months. Enjoy!
 
1 lb. ground beef, browned and drained
1 med./large green bell pepper, diced
1 sm./med. white onion, diced
1 can corn, drained
1 can (plain) diced tomatoes
1 can (plain) Ranch Style beans
1 can Rotel
1 can water (for additional soupiness)
Chili powder, salt, and pepper to taste
 
Combine ingredients in large pot, simmer with pot covered, stirring and tasting occasionally, until peppers and onions cook down and flavors have mixed well.

Chef’s Notes:

Serve with saltine crackers and sliced sharp cheddar cheese, or with cornbread.

Currently Available as Free Kindle e-Books:

Delicious Beef Dinners

The Broke-A** Cookbook

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!

Economics and Investing:

G.G. flagged this item: First Term: Americans Collecting Disability Increased 1,385,418—Now 1 for Each 13 Full-Time Workers

US Mint Out Of Silver Coins – Suspends Sales (A hat tip to Rory for spotting that article.)

Bill O’Reilly: Obama’s Economic Collapse. (Thanks to B.B. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Expect Stunning $233 Silver As It Begins To Soar

Another “Market Meltdown,” “Huge Recession” Is Guaranteed

Do You Want To Scare A Baby Boomer?

Odds ‘n Sods:

A reader in Oklahoma asked about Selective Serotonin Reuptake Inhibitor (SSRI) anti-depressant drugs. Here is the short answer: Big Pharma has replaced Big Tobacco as D.C.’s unassailable legislative pressure group. SSRI drugs are a $50 billion per year industry. So don’t expect any highly-publicized congressional hearings that detail the links between mood altering drugs and school massacres, even though the evidence is plain as day. OBTW, Forbes recently posted an excellent article on this subject, but it must have hit too close to the mark, because the editors spiked it, just a few days later. (The huge advertising budgets of Big Pharma can be turned off and on at their discretion, so they obviously wield a lot of power.)

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Tam at View From The Porch mentioned this: British Army Goes Glock.

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Stealth Hoodie foils FLIRs. (Thanks to Scott B. for the link.)

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Resistance is building, folks: Texas, Missouri Join Other States Looking To Block Gun Bans. And another approach: South Carolina bill would exempt state militia from federal gun rules. Also, at the County level: First in the Nation: Beaufort County, NC Adopts Federal Gun Laws Nullification Resolution

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"You’re going to see more social unrest. You saw huge riots in Greece, and you’re seeing huge riots in other parts of the world over food (and lack of food) and those are actually derivatives of the financial problems that we’re seeing. We’re exporting inflation to some other nations. Going forward it’s going to be a problem." – Kyle Bass

Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Four-Tier Survival for the Newbie, by C.H.

A little about me: I am 27 years old, I have been married to my wife for 7 years. We have two boys, ages six and 22 months. Both my wife and I are school teachers; I also coach football and power lifting. So, we are the epitome of the American middle class. I have always enjoyed hunting, camping and the outdoors. So I have developed some basic “outdoorsman” skills throughout my youth and early adult hood.
As a young child and early teen, I was very interested in survival, homesteading, and living off the land. I remember reading Foxfire books with my grandfather and dreaming of becoming a true mountain man. I wanted to be a real Jeremiah Johnson. My grandfather passed away when I was thirteen and I subsequently lost interest because it was something we talked about together. It was just too upsetting to think about without him. Shortly after his passing, I began high school and eventually college and “got caught up in life”.
In the last several months, I have become very interested in emergency preparedness for my family. I was truly overwhelmed with the amount of information I discovered; some of it very good, some so-so, and some just plain off-the-wall. I am writing this in hopes that it will save others in the same situation I was in some time. Just like in any other survival or preparedness situation, time is of the essence.
This article is meant as an introduction for someone who has little to no background information on the subject. This article could also be useful to the serious prepper who never thought about how they would get back to their shelter if a disaster struck while they were “out and about.” This is a “primer” to get people thinking about survival situations. Are there some better choices out there? Possibly. Did I say my suggestions were the cold, hard, fast rules?  No. Take this article as it was meant.
I have run across several three tier survival models in my searching. I have also discovered several good sources for emergency preparedness for bugging out and sheltering in place. I have combined the information in what I am calling 4-Tier Survival. The tiers are as follows:

  • TIER ONE: This is your everyday carry (EDC) on person. You should have this with you 24/7 or as close to 24/7 seven as possible. Basically, if you have pants on, you should have these items with you.
  • TIER TWO: This is your EDC bag. You should have this with you or within reach 24/7. Take it with you to work, the grocery store, running to the gas station, etc. If you walk out the door of your house, it should be with you.
  • TIER THREE: This is your 72 hour kit, bug out bag, SHTF bag, or any of those other catchy names for them. At a minimum you need one. If you only have the funds for one, so be it. But, eventually I would suggest having one for the house, the vehicle and possibly at work if you have the space to store one.
  • TIER FOUR: This is for long term preparedness. This is long-term food and water storage and procurement methods. Always prepare your home to shelter-in-place first. Then, if you have a secondary bug out location, prepare it. Depending on the disaster or emergency you may or may not be able to bug out. On the other hand, you may be forced to evacuate or bug out.

Before I go any farther in this article I want to give you a great piece of advice: Develop and hone your knowledge, ability and skills over the knives, tools and kits. A vast amount of knowledge and skills with a minimum amount of tools will keep you and your family alive a lot longer than a vast amount of tools and minimum amount knowledge and skills will. This may seem contradictory to what this article is about. But, do not lose sight of this advice. Everyone knows someone who has the newest, best whatever it is but no clue how to use it. This makes them look like a fool. Don’t be a fool.
When creating the tiers, I kept in mind the basic needs of a survival situation, shelter, water, fire, food and I am going to add protection. In a the end of the world as we know it (TEOTWAWKI) situation, protecting yourself, your family, home, supplies and gear could be a paramount priority. The first three tiers will enable you to get to your fourth tier. We all find ourselves away from
Now, let’s discuss the tools and supplies I feel are needed for each tier. This is by no means the end all, be all list of what is needed. This is what I have come up with for my kits. Feel free to add or take away as you feel necessary. This is based off of my skill set and my family needs. I wanted to condense a lot of information into a single article and basically get you thinking about what you will need. I want you to come up with your own kits. I also wanted to show you that all of the tiers are possible. They will take some time, energy and money, but anyone can do this.
Note: I will not get very technical in the types/brands of items to carry. Use your own judgment; remember, most times you get what you pay for. Also, I go by the mantra, “Two is one, one is none.”
TIER ONE: On-person EDC

  • Blades/Tools
    • Quality folding knife of your choice. Make sure it is sharp. You are more likely to injure yourself trying to cut something with a dull knife than you are using a sharp knife.
    • Quality multi-tool. There are many options available. Look at the type of environment you spend the majority of time in, consider your skills, and use this to decide the brand/style of tool you want to carry.
    • Lock picks/Bogota – I choose NOT to carry these as of now. Remember what I said about skills earlier. I know I don’t have the skills needed to use these. Now, once I develop the skills, they will be added to my EDC.
    • Small compass. Just to get a general direction if needed.
    • Pen and small notepad. I personally like the waterproof kind. Nothing like getting caught in the rain and losing everything you have made notes of.
    • Small survival whistle.
    • Cotton bandana.
    • P-38 can opener. I carry one on my key ring. I forget it is even there, until I need it.
  • Cell Phone
    • Pretty self-explanatory. Pretty much everyone has a cell phone that they carry anyway. [JWR Adds: It is important to also keep a 12 VDC cell phone "car charger" handy.]
  • Cordage
    • 550 Cord. There are lots of different, creative ways to carry. There are bracelets, key fobs, zipper pulls, belts, even lacing your boots/shoes with it. Learn how to braid your own items.
  • Fire
    • Small brand name lighter. Cheap and easy to carry way to start a fire.
    • Small firesteel. Another cheap, easy to carry way to start a fire.
    • Tinder. Could be a magnesium rod, dryer lint, or any brand of quick tinder that is out on the market now, you should know what works. I prefer magnesium rods; they take up less room and are light.
  • Firearm
    • I am not going to start the never-ending conversation of discussing brands and calibers.
    • Find a gun that you can comfortably carry and shoot.
    • Shoot, a lot.
    • Shoot from behind cover, kneeling, sitting, lying down, standing, off hand, from one yard to 25 yards.
    • Shoot some more.
    • Practice reloading, practice reloading behind cover, practice reloading standing, kneeling, lying down, off hand.
    • Practice some more.
  • Light
    • Small flashlight. I personally look for an LED version that runs off of AA or AAA batteries. Look for one that is waterproof or at the very least water resistant.
    • Keychain LED light. Look for one that has a locking on/off switch. These are easier to use in the fact that they do not have to have constant pressure on the switch to illuminate.
  • USB Drive
    • I use my USB drive to store all types of important documents and other information I run across and want to save. I have encrypted my USB drive in case it falls into the wrong hands. (I strongly suggest doing this.) Also, save the information under nondescript names. In other words, don’t save the file as: “Insurance Papers” or “Social Security Cards”, etc.
    • Birth/Marriage Certificates
    • Social Security Cards
    • Driver’s License
    • Insurance Policies/Cards
    • Vehicle Registrations/Insurance
    • Medical/Shot Record
    • Recent Check Stubs/Bank Statements
    • Stocks/Bonds
    • Property Description
    • Another option/addition to this is online file storage. There are many places available on the internet to store files on a remote server and be able to access from any computer or cell phone with internet access.

Some people I have seen carry as much as possible on their keychain. The only thing with that is if you lose your keys, you have lost a lot of your gear. I carry some stuff on my belt, some in pockets and some on a keychain. I have even seen and thought about carrying some items around my neck. Whatever you feel comfortable with and what works for you is best.

TIER TWO: EDC Bag
Tier two is going to contain pretty much everything from tier one except bigger and better.

  • Blades/Tools
    • Quality fixed blade knife of your choice. Again make sure it is sharp.
    • Sharpening stone.
    • Quality multi-tool. I would look at one to complement the one from tier one. A little larger and possibly features that the other does not have. I personally wouldn’t want the exact same model from tier one. Look at the ones that have the screwdriver possibilities.
    • Small entry bar or pry bar.
    • Larger more reliable compass. Possibly a GPS system if you are so inclined. If you are in a large urban environment, I would have a city map in my EDC bag.
    • Pens and notepad again. Plenty of pens and permanent markers.
    • P-51 can opener.(A scaled-up version of the P-38.)
  • Cell Phone/Communications
    • This is where I would keep a wall charger for my cell phone.
    • I would also think about one of the emergency chargers that run off of batteries at this point.
    • I also carry a pay-as-you go phone in my EDC bag. On some occasions when one service is down, others are still up and running. It’s a cheap insurance policy.
    • Radio of some sort. Depends on your location and abilities.
  • Cordage
    • I would carry no less than 25 feet of 550 cord in my EDC bag. The more the better. Again, options here, braid it to take up less space, key fobs, I’ve seen some braided water bottle carriers. Use your imagination
    • I have run across Kevlar cord, no personal experience with it. But, something I will check out.
    • I would toss in some duct tape and electrical tape here. You can take it off of the cardboard roll and roll it onto itself and it takes up very little room.
    • Possibly some wire, picture hanging wire works well.
    • Possibly some zip ties. Various sizes as you see fit.
    • I also have a couple of carabiners clipped to my bag.
  • Fire
    • Another cheap lighter.
    • Larger firesteel.
    • More tinder. Personally I prefer the magnesium, but whatever you are comfortable with.
  • Firearm
    • I personally don’t see the need to carry a second firearm.
    • I would however warrant the carrying of at least two spare magazines for the handgun in tier one.
  • First-Aid
    • Basic first aid kit.
    • Package of quick slotting agent.
    • Basic EMT shears.
    • Basic pain relievers, fever reducers, upset stomach tablets etc.
    • Small bottle of hand sanitizer.
    • Baby wipes.
  • Food
    • I always carry a couple of energy or meal replacement bars in my bag. If nothing else, I may have to work through lunch and need a snack.
    • Some people will toss a freeze-dried meal or MRE if they have room. Personally, I don’t.
    • A small pack of hard candy.
  • Light
    • I personally prefer a headlamp at this stage. You can use a headlamp as a flashlight; you can’t use a flashlight as a headlamp.
    • If you don’t go the headlamp route, choose a higher quality flashlight than tier one.
    • Extra batteries. On the subject of batteries, do your best to acquire electronic items that use the same size of battery.
    • Another keychain light. I have one attached to the inside of my bag to aid in finding items inside in low-light situations.
    • Some people carry chemical light sticks in their EDC bag. I have found battery operated light sticks that also have a small flashlight in one end I prefer to carry.
  • Shelter
    • I keep a packable rain jacket at all times and depending on the weather a packable pair of rain pants. Remember, your clothing is your first form of shelter.
    • I also keep a couple of “survival” blankets in my bag.
    • I keep a couple of contractor style garbage bags as well.
  • Water
    • I have a stainless steel water bottle that stays in my pack at all times. If I am traveling longer than my normal commute, I will toss in a small collapsible water container.
    • Ziploc bags.
    • Two-part chemical water purifier.
    • Filtering drinking straw.
    • Toss in a couple of standard coffee filters to filter sediment if needed.

Now, bear in mind, my EDC bag is not for long-term survival. I feel like I could sustain myself for several days if I needed to with the contents of my pack. However, that is not its intended use. All of the tiers are designed to sustain you until you can “make it” to the next tier.

My EDC bag is the same bag I use for school every day. Granted I cannot carry a weapon or ammunition into the school building. My point is you don’t want all of your Tier Two items to be so big and bulky that you can’t comfortably carry them. All of this stuff is in addition to my school books and papers and tablet. For those of you that are curious, I prefer a messenger style bag. But, again, whatever works for you and is the most comfortable.

TIER THREE: Larger rucksack or backpack

A lot of people would call this the 72 hour kit. I feel that this is a bit of a misnomer. Granted, 72 hours is a good figure for most people to shoot for. However, I feel that in this stage of the game, you should be able to carry enough to survive indefinitely. 

  • Blades/Tools
    • Quality fixed blade knife. If you want you can double up from tier two. Depends on your requirements. Remember, two is one, one is none.
    • Small quality folding shovel.
    • Quality hatchet.
    • Small machete. If you feel that your knife is up to the task of clearing brush, no need for one. Also, if you are in a true bug out situation where people could be looking for you, you don’t want to clear a highway through the brush.
    • Some type of saw or saw blades. There are some nice pocket chain saws on the market now. Or you could carry blades and fashion your own handle or frame.
    • Tools for forced entry if warranted. Pry bars, bolt cutters, etc.
    • Tool kit. Depends on your location and environment. At the bare minimum carry enough tools to repair anything that you are depending on in a survival situation.
  • Cell Phone/Communications
    • Depending on the level of the disaster cell phones may or may or may not be working.
    • Again, depending on your location and abilities, depends on the type of communications you should carry.
    • One thing I have not seen widely talked about is two way radios. Obviously this would be if more than one person is in your party. However, now you start talking about batteries and chargers.
  • Cordage
    • At least 100 feet of 550 cord.
    • Depending on your environment, climbing rope, harness and gear may be warranted.
    • Tape, electrical and duct.
    • Zip ties, various sizes
    • Wire, picture wire.
    • Carabiners, various sizes.
  • Fire
    • Cheap lighter.
    • Firesteel.
    • Tinder.
    • Camp stove. Small, lightweight, portable. A lot of good information about this out there. Pay special attention to the type of fuel that the stove you select uses.
  • Firearm

This depends on the type of situation you are in. I will list the types of firearms I would have, not necessarily carry, and reasons why. If this is a true bug out situation obviously the adults in your party could carry at least one, more than likely two, long guns.

    • We have already discussed a handgun.
    • “Modern Sporting Rifle”. Be it an AR based platform, an AK-47, Mini-14 etc. I personally like the AR platform. However, A’s can be a bit finicky if not properly cleaned and maintained. Something you may not be able to do well in a TEOTWAWKI situation. So, I would grab an AK-47. Whatever your budget and preference lead you to.
    • .22 caliber rifle. There are many options, I personally recommend the Ruger 10-22. There are several collapsible stocks available. This is for hunting small game.
    • Home defense shotgun. I would suggest a 12 gauge. The options and setups are endless. You can go as mild or as wild as your budget and imagination allow. This is not something I would necessarily always grab. However, this is something I feel that no home should be without. The sound of a shell racking into the chamber of a pump shotgun is a sound that will deter most people without even firing a shot.
    • Extra magazines and ammunition.
  • First-Aid
    • More advanced first aid kit. There are pre-made ones on the market or come up with your own.
    • Quick clotting agent.
    • EMT Shears.
    • Pain relievers, fever reducers, upset stomach pills, etc.
    • A week’s supply of any prescription medications.
    • Any supply of antibiotics or narcotics that you can procure.
    • Knowledge of natural/herbal remedies. Here is a great area where knowledge can help you a lot longer than supplies can.
  • Food
    • If you want to put in a three day supply of freeze-dried meals or MRE’s. Go for it. But here is where procuring your own food will come in handy.
    • I would suggest some type of mess style kit for cooking. Again, your choice.
    • Fishing kit. Fishing line, assortment of hooks, sinkers and artificial bait if desired.
    • Fishing “yo-yo” traps. Can be set and left alone to catch fish while you are doing some other task. I feel these are a necessity. They are light and take up little room.
    • Snare kit. I would suggest several pre-made snares and supplies to create more.
    • Traps. Connibear style traps, an assortment of sizes. 4-6 is all you should need.
    • Frog gigs. Could also be used for spearing fish, depending on your location.
    • You also have a firearm for taking small or large game.
    • Knowledge of wild edibles in your area or bug out location.
  • Light
    • Again, I would suggest a headlamp and extra batteries.
    • Use your discretion for what else you may want/need.
  • Shelter
    • Two changes of clothes. One for warm weather and one for cool/cold weather. Again depending on your environment.
    • I would suggest at least 3 pair of underwear and 6 pair of socks.
    • Packable rain gear.
    • Quality bivy style shelter or tarp.
    • Quality sleeping bag. Again, do some research. See what fits your needs and budget.
    • Sleeping pad if wanted.
    • Possibly a pocket style hammock.
  • Water
    • Stainless steel water bottle.
    • Chemical water treatment.
    • Water filter/purifier. Again, look at your budget and needs. There are several nice options out there.
    • Coffee filters for straining out sediment.
    • Collapsible water storage.

 

TIER FOUR: Long term preparedness.
Even though this is the largest of all the tiers, I will probably go into the least amount of detail. There are many great sources of information concerning long term preparedness, SurvivalBlog.com being one of the best, if not the best, in my opinion.

  • Blades/Tools
    • Obviously any blade or tool previously discussed. Except full size versions.
    • An ax, saws, shovels, garden hoes, rakes, etc.
    • Possibly a plow, seeder, etc, for planting a garden.
    • Variety of hand tools.
    • Automotive tools, carpentry tools, etc.
    • Sewing machine, needles, thread, clothing patterns, etc.
    • Begin thinking of ways you can use your tools and knowledge to develop a skill that can be used for trade or barter.
  • Communication
    • Short wave radios, ham radios, etc.
    • Two way radios.
  • Cordage
    • Large amounts of any cordage or supplies under cordage already discussed.
  • Fire
    • Cast iron stove.
    • Fireplace.
    • Begin thinking now about how you will be heating your home in the winter. Think about how you will be cooking your meals. Also, think about how you will get fuel for your fire.
  • Firearms
    • We discussed in tier three the types of firearms I felt were needed.
    • Begin thinking about amount of ammo you can and are willing to stockpile.
    • Begin thinking about reloading your own ammunition. Begin thinking about stockpiling supplies. This can be turned into great bartering items.
  • First Aid
    • Begin developing a large first aid supply. Think about what you will need to do without a doctor present. Suture kits, surgical kit, trauma kit, etc. There will be no running to the emergency room.
    • Begin thinking about dental supplies. Again, there will possibly be no dentists to go to.
    • Again, knowledge is key in this situation. There are some good books about this type of thing. Take a first aid class, learn CPR. Learn as much as you possibly can.
    • Study about and begin stockpiling medications.
  • Food
    • There are many more articles to be written and read on this subject alone.
    • Start developing a small reserve of foods that you eat on a regular basis that have a long shelf life. Start with a week; go to a month, then three months, then a year, then longer.
    • Begin thinking now about storage. A year’s supply of food for your family will take up a considerable amount of space.
    • Expand on the amount of items you have from tier three. Increase the number of traps and snares you have.
    • Think about obtaining a variety of seeds to plant in your garden.
    • Again, there is a vast amount of information to be found on this subject alone. The main thing I want you to understand is this is doable, on any income. Start small and work your way up to larger quantities.
    • Do not get yourself into a financial burden by going out and buying a year’s supply of food at one time.
  • Light
    • Begin obtaining lanterns, fuel, mantles, etc.
    • Begin thinking about candles and candle making.
    • If you are so inclined, begin thinking about solar panels for your home or shelter location.
  • Shelter
    • Begin making those small repairs to your home. Things that may be fairly quickly and easily fixed now may not be so easily fixed later. I’m not talking kitchen remodeling; I’m talking leaky faucets, broken windows, drafty doors, etc.
    • Think about having a metal roof installed if you don’t have one already.
    • This is the time to think about a secondary survival location. A remote, rural location. Think of this as an investment. It could be used now as a vacation spot. Use it later as a retirement home.
  • Water
    • Begin storing water. Think not only about drinking, but also cooking and cleaning.
    • Again, start small. Begin with a few days worth; then weeks and months.
    • Start thinking about long-term procurement and storage. Gutters that empty into water storage, etc. Think also about purification on a large scale.
  • Miscellaneous Things to Thing About
    • Sit down and make a list of normal, everyday things that you do around your house, cleaning, washing, “personal” business, entertainment, etc.
    • These are activities that require items that you will not be able to run down to the store to get.
    • Toiletries. Soap, shampoo, toothpaste, toilet paper, razors, shaving cream, feminine hygiene, etc.
    • Cleaning. Bleach, disinfectant, dish soap, laundry detergent, etc.
    • Entertainment. Cards, board games, puzzles, books, etc.
    • Think about large quantity storage of fuel; for cooking, heating, anything with an internal combustion engine, etc.

 

Again, I have very briefly touched on long term preparedness. There are numerous articles and books on long term preparedness. Read them. This is meant merely as a primer to get you thinking about long term survival.

Conclusion:
I hope you use this article as it was meant; to give you some basic information on survival and get you thinking about survival situations. Remember to develop your skills, knowledge and abilities over the amount of tools and supplies you have. I cannot stress this enough. Read, listen to others, take classes, and always be open to new ideas and opinions. You will find things that will work for you; and just as importantly, you will find things that will not work for you.

Take the time to use the skills and tools you acquire. Go camping, use primitive methods to start a fire, gather food and water, cook over an open flame. Once you think you are ready to test your preparedness, turn the breaker off to your house, and turn off the gas main and water main. Do this for a weekend. You will quickly find your shortcomings and deficiencies. You will also find the things that you have done well on.

Letter Re: Advice on M1A Rifle Assembly and Disassembly

Mr. Rawles,
Great information, as always.  I read with considerable interest the article on 308 battle rifles by Ulysses in Montana, and it made me think once again of my M1A and the one dilemma I have with it; how to break it down for cleaning.  I come from an M16/AR-15 background, having spend some years in the Army.  It is also very easy to find a wide variety of videos on the AR-15 platform,  many with great video closeups of how to break down and clean that weapon.  Unfortunately, I have been unable to find a similar video for the M1A rifle.  Do you have any recommendations for a video that I could buy (or YouTube would be even better, I find it hard to believe I can’t find one there!) that would give me good, detailed information on how to field strip and properly clean an M1A?

Thanks so much, – Terry G.

JWR Replies: I’ve always liked the videos produced by American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI). Their M1 Garand / M1A Rifles Armorer’s Course starts with field stripping and reassembly, but then it goes a lot deeper: Detailed assembly and disassembly to the very smallest parts, (even the rear sight–careful don’t lose those ball bearings!), bore inspection and gauging, glass bedding, the whole works! Reader J.W.J. mentioned this free illustrated PDF that is also quite instructive.