Letter Re: Free Air Filter Radiation Testing From KI4U

Jim,
Many are increasingly concerned about elevated radiation levels in their own local areas, but without any way to check & test for local radiation contamination many of them are worrying needlessly, especially about minute, non-dangerous, increases over background radiation levels.

At KI4U we will for no charge test any submitted used air filters from SurvivalBlogger’s vehicles or homes. Here at the lab we are utilizing state of the art isotope identification spectrum analysis with dose rate determination and will e-mail lab analysis results back to any that send in their used air filters.

Full details on these tests can be found here. Regards, – Shane at KI4U.com



Economics and Investing:

John R. sent this: 647,762,000,000,000 Reasons to Worry: The Derivatives Time Bomb.

Food is the New Oil, Land is the New Gold. (Thanks to Bob G. for the link.)

Reader J.B.G. sent this: Pharmacy queues show price Greeks are paying for credit breakdown

L.M.W. suggested some more great commentary from Karl Denninger: On “Austerity” and False Gods

Items from The Economatrix:

AIG Chief Sees New Retirement Age as High as 80 After Crisis.

Shenandoah:  A Fascinating Editorial From A Chinese Economist On The US Dollar

The Dark Financial Clouds Engulfing Europe



Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader “Bullseye” sent this: Some Families are Choosing a More Old Fashioned Lifestyle

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Bob G. send this video link: Deceptive Practices of Big Food – Doctor Siegel analyzes the ingredient list of “Oatmeal To Go” bar. He found that there were lots of sugars, fats, and fat emulsifiers. Be sure to read labels carefully!

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Mega marketing has now reached survival expos: 2012 Survival Expo. (The event is being held in Las Vegas, naturlich.)

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The new Duracell has a10 year shelf life. (Thanks to Bob T. for the link to the press release.)

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A reader sent a news story that reminds me of the famous line from Repo Man: “Put it on a plate son, you’ll enjoy it more.” Government Dishes Out Advice on Preparing Healthy Meals: Always Use Bowls or Plates.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“But the mercy of the LORD [is] from everlasting to everlasting upon them that fear him, and his righteousness unto children’s children;
To such as keep his covenant, and to those that remember his commandments to do them.” – Psalm 103:17-18 (KJV)



Note From JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 41 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 41 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Prepping with Natural Gas From My Own Well, by Y. Sam

Like many people, I was a prepper long before I ever heard the term.  I grew up on a farm and learned the value of hard work and ingenuity at a young age.  I never liked being in debt or the feeling of having others in control of my well being.  The following topic may not be of any interest to many people but for those of you who are thinking about moving out of the city to a place in the country it may give you one more thing to add to your retreat wish list.

In 1998 my family and I moved to our 67 acre farm that came with free natural gas (NG) from two 1930s-vintage shallow wells.  This heated our home and water and provided gas for cooking and clothes drying.  A couple of years later we bought the lease from the producer because he was going to plug the wells as he wasn’t making any money on producing them.  Oil was selling for under $9 a barrel at that time.  I did not want to lose the free gas and figured the price of oil would go up so I bought them and the oil I’ve sold over the past 10 years has paid me back a few times.

We live at the end of the electrical grid so our power is the first to go out and the last to come back on.  There is seldom a month that goes by that our power doesn’t go out and at least once a year it is out for more than 4 days at time.  Our first purchase when we moved to the farm was a gas generator.  We had no power the first 8 days after we moved in, due to a severe storm.  I read about fuel cells for producing electricity from NG and that they would be available for home owners in early 2002.  Well that hasn’t happened and in 2004 I bought a whole house NG backup generator.  I called an electrician to hook it up and he said he could do it the following week.  He estimated the cost at $1,000 so I decided I could cut that down by doing what I could on my own.  I prepared the site, moved the generator into position, ran the gas line, mounted the transfer switch, drilled holes through the house, ran the wiring to the switch box, mounted the breaker box and at this point I realized that all that was left was to wire nut the wires together inside the main breaker so I called him back and canceled my appointment.  This thing is great and in an extended power outage it can be turned on and off manually to greatly extend its life.

The first time gas was closing in on $4 a gallon I decided to get a car that ran on NG.  This turned out to be a no go as I couldn’t find a compressor for the natural gas that made sense.  I could only find two options at that time.  First was a “Phil” from Fuelmaker, the unit was priced alright but the upkeep ran about $1 per GGE (gasoline, gallon equivalent).  The second choice was an Ingersoll Rand commercial unit at $100,000. Even though I really wanted to do this I put it on the back burner for a while.  To run a gas engine on NG you don’t need a lot of pressure you just need a lot of volume.  Most cars have tanks that hold 3,600 psi and then have two regulators that reduce the pressure down to a useable level.  The reason for the high pressure is to store enough volume in a small enough space so you can go a far enough distance to make it worth doing.   One day, while pouring gas into the fuel tank of the Honda engine that is used to run the pump jack on the oil well, I decided that was just plain nuts with all the NG available only a few feet away.  I spent a few hours trying to rig something up to run NG into the carburetor but couldn’t get it to run smoothly.  The next day I ordered a kit online for $160 and have not put a drop of gasoline in it for six years.

After reading One Second After I started thinking about getting a NG refrigerator.  The price was mind boggling until I found out that most of the companies selling them where buying new electric refrigerators and taking out the electric parts and replacing them with NG cooling units.  Spending $2,000 to replace a fridge that was working just didn’t make sense.  I still wanted one and started looking through the local papers and on Craig’s List for a used one.  I finally bought a 1949 Servel at a local auction for $50.  This was at an estate auction and I asked a family member if it worked.  He told me it had been working a couple of years ago but did not know if it still worked.  When I got it home and hooked up to the gas I couldn’t get it to light.  I went on line and ordered a manual for the fridge from a guy in Maine who fixes old NG refrigerators.  I tore the burner apart and cleaned the dirt, bugs and rust out of it.  When I put it back together it lit right up and has been going great ever since.  These have no moving parts, are heavy made and should last almost forever.  The freezer is big enough to hold about 8 ice cube trays and the main compartment is the same size as a normal fridge.  I keep this in my shop and full of beverages but it is great to know if I ever needed it for everyday it is available.  The average newly-manufactured refrigerator lasts around 7 years but this one is on its 7th decade.

Every year I go back and search the internet on uses for the natural gas on my farm.  I mentioned earlier about the fuel cells to generate electricity for home use.  Companies like Bloom Energy are selling them to commercial users like Google, eBay and FedEx but not home users.  I can understand why they want to deal with commercial users as they can sell $500,000 to one buyer instead of $5,000 to 100 buyers, but one day they will be available for home users.  About a year and half ago while doing searches I finally found a home compressor so I could start running my car on natural gas.  I had noticed a large increase in the number of compressors available but most were made in China and were complete junk.  I found Green Line Fuel Corp. in California selling a Coltri compressor that had just what I was looking for in a compressor.  Coltri has been making compressors for the US Navy to fill scuba tanks for years.  What I bought was their smallest unit MCH-5 that fills at about 2 GGEs an hour and is built like a tank. Very low cost to maintain and this can be done by the operator unlike the Phil that needs to be sent to the company every 900 hours for a rebuild. 

Once I had found a compressor I liked I started to look around for a car.  My car had 127,000 miles on it and didn’t seem like a good candidate to convert.  I ended up buying a dual fuel Chevy Cavalier on eBay that only had 44,000 miles and that was $1,100 less expansive than the estimated cost converting my old car to run on NG.  I was quite nervous about buying the car over the Internet without driving the car first, but the car has been just great.  With the car purchased, I called Green Line and ordered the compressor.  They delivered it the middle of January. 2011 and we got it hooked up and running in no time.  A couple of months later my dad bought a dual fuel F-150 at a GSA auction and I started to fill that for him.  Six months later he bought a 15 passenger one ton Chevy van with only 18,000 miles on the odometer.  The van runs great but it had the smallest compressed natural gas (CNG) tank ever made (125 mile range).  After removing several rows of seats and installing an additional tank he now has a 400 mile range.  Filling up my dad’s vehicles has made me happier than about anything I’ve been able to do with my natural gas.  My dad is retired and has always loved going to auctions to buy stuff then take it around to farms and businesses and peddle it out of the back of his truck.  About three years ago he pretty much stopped because of the gas prices.  We live in a very rural area and many times he would travel 150 to 200 miles round trip for an auction.  Now he is back on the road and the money he was spending for gas is now profit from his dealings.  We live about 20 miles apart but my office is in between so we just swap out cars there. 

In December of 2011 I had my ¾-ton Chevy truck converted.  The truck had spent most of the last several years in the garage.  Living on a farm you need a truck but at $4 a gallon and 15 miles to the gallon you start asking yourself how many bags of feed can I get in the back of the Cavalier.  All of our vehicles are dual fuel meaning they will run on either NG or gasoline.  CNG filling stations are few and far between where we live.  My truck starts on gasoline and then switches over CNG when the engine temperature reaches 170 degrees.  I’ve filled the truck with gasoline only once in the past six months and still have over half a tank.  The Cavalier runs on CNG anytime there is NG in the tank and you can’t manually switch it over to gasoline.  The one I would not recommend to anyone buying is the Ford unless you have someone that is willing to work on Fords.  The closest Ford dealer to us that would work on a factory CNG truck is 120 miles away and they quoted $800 just to change the spark plugs. The main problem is a regulator called a Compuvalve that gives most Ford owners fits. 
 
We all see different SHTF possibilities but many of them include having either no gas or a very limited supply.  Being able to get around quickly or haul stuff to market could make a big difference and if nothing bad ever happens I will just keep saving money.

I have several ideas for future projects using the natural gas including a small greenhouse, lawn mower, saw mill and a tractor. 

JWR Adds: This article is further evidence that properties with their own “home tap” natural gas wells are not a myth. And you don’t have to move to the Four Corners or to Oklahoma to find one. They are all over the country, if you do a concerted search. Properties with gas wells are also often available at our SurvivalRealty spin-off site. Here is an example, in Kentucky.



Letter Re: Evaluating Military Surplus Generator Sets Before Bidding at Auction

James,
I wanted to offer a few more thoughts on DoD generators.  Most of the generators I found on Government Liquidations were Mil Std Generators.  This family of generators was designed in the 1970s and manufactured into late 1980s to early 1990s.  The DoD is selling of the generators because they are old, and compared to newer DoD generators they consume more fuel, require more regular maintenance (PMCS), are less reliable and are more expensive to repair if you can get the parts.  

The Mil Std Family are tough generators designed to run in environmental extremes.  They are not your typical consumer generators and out perform most same kW commercial generators.  Most Mil Stds (5 kW +) are designed to produce 110-125% of nameplate kW  continuously , 0.8 Power Factor, up to 5,000 Ft. elevation (normal de-rating for a generator set is 3.5% per 1,000 ft & commercial generators are rated at sea level to no more than 1000 ft. elevation).  The alternators are oversized to improve efficiency and power quality, to operate at high temperatures and to start motors (the generators have phenomenal motor starting capability).  The alternators are brushless and controlled by voltage regulators so the power quality is good (significantly better than residential gasoline generators).  The engines are a bit over powered compared to commercial sets, contributing to the motor starting, altitude and power quality performance.  Electronics in the generators will be simple relays and black boxes with resistors, diodes, capacitors & simple transistors.  Good electronic shops should be able to troubleshoot them. The generators are also designed to be repaired and can easily be disassembled.  Most wiring harnesses are marked with wire numbers, though the circuits are more complex than in newer generators.  They are heavy and will withstand off road transport without damage.  DoD has published fairly complete maintenance manuals that can be found on the web that are quite a bit more detailed than most commercial generator set manuals. 

In terms of problems, the most likely problems will be in areas with moving parts (engines), the fuel system, and set specific electronic parts with high failure rates.  The 15, 30 & 60 kW generators are known for voltage regulator failures, for example.  I believe a good technician could probably replace the voltage regulator with a current model from Basler or one of the other commercial VR manufacturers.  8 years ago there were vendors who could rebuild the injectors, injector pumps and engines, though I don’t know about availability today.  Many of the other components that corrode or fail could be replaced with commercial components (radiators, fuel tank, fuel pump, wiring, toggle switches, etc.)

Downside to sets:  All the generators use engines that have been out of production for probably 15 years.  The Onan diesel engines in the 3, 5, & 10 kW generators were only used in the DoD generators.  Onan stopped making them back in the early 1990s.  Spare parts were available past 2000 but DoD has stopped purchasing most spare parts for these sets so the industrial base for spare parts is shrinking and requires a serious search to find the few parts available. The 15 & 30 use White-Hercules engines that were sold commercially, but these companies are no longer in the diesel engine business so I’m not sure how available parts will be.  The 60 kW also uses an engine previously sold commercially, but the manufacturer doesn’t make diesel engines any more either. The generators were designed to run on 1980s fuels.  Fuel injectors and injector pumps should wear out prematurely from the Ultra low sulfur diesel fuel sold today. They are all good diesel engines, but if you have engine problems it may be tough to find spare parts.  All the sets contain main alternators custom built for the generators, though local motor rewinding shops can probably fix damaged windings.  The alternators have a long life outside bearing but are supported by the engine flywheel on the other end so they would be difficult to re-purpose into a different generator set.  The sets use a 24 VDC starter and control system, so cars can’t be used to jump start them.  They are noisy too.  Soldiers joke about finding command posts out in the field by listening for the Mil Std generator noise.  After the SHTF Mil Std generators will advertise for quite a distance that you have power and potentially other supplies, though the noise is probably no higher than your typical residential gasoline generator.

Selecting generator size:  Most users don’t size their diesel generator sets correctly for optimal generator set performance and fuel consumption.  Army Field manuals recommend an average load of 80%.  This balances having some reserve capacity for peaks and motor starting against optimal engine loading and fuel consumption.  Diesel engines work best at high load.  At low loads diesel engines consume more fuel per Hp of output increasing kW-Hr fuel costs.  At low loads Mil Std generators will also “wetstack” which can lead to sticking rings, dirty injectors, improper new engine break-in and other engine problems.  If you go to engine manufacturers they will have graphs of fuel consumption versus load.  The graphs will have non-linear curves that show optimal engine fuel efficiency normally somewhere between 60-90% of engine capacity.  For the Mil Std generators, at 100% electrical load the engine is probably at no more than 70% mechanical load (the engine has enough hp to power 125% load + another 15% for elevation), so operating the set at even 30-50% electrical load will be wasting fuel.  After the SHTF my house will provide shelter for many years with minimal maintenance, I can filter water, potentially grow food, but my fuel supply could be a finite resource with a shelf life that can’t be replenished.  Don’t purchase an oversized generator that consumes more of your finite fuel resources than a properly sized generator would. Personally I’m accumulating multiple generators of different sizes that will allow me to run the optimal generator set for the load maximizing the life of my fuel supply.  This also provides redundancy.  If you need help determining how much power you need recommend you read a basic electrician’s handbook or you can download a copy of FM 4-424, Theater of Operations Electrical Systems, off the web.   When examining loads look at night vs day, peak loading, standard loads, and motor starting.  Consider batteries and solar for periods of light loads to minimize generator operation.  Induction motors place especially high starting loads on generators.  Mil Std generators will put out 300% of rated load for the few seconds required to start spinning an induction motor allowing a smaller generator to run loads with large induction motors (motor starting depends on the engine, VR and alternator design).  If you have inductive loads, before purchasing a commercial generator check with the manufacturer about their peak output watts or how large a motor they will start.  My father purchased a 1,750 Watt gasoline generator that wouldn’t start an induction motor that used 450 Watts, once spinning. 

I agree with the writer who didn’t recommend purchasing a DoD generator unless you had the skills to maintain and repair it.  I have those skills and I wouldn’t purchase one unless the price was right and the generator was going to be a back up to a back up that I was going to tinker with.  The Mil Std sets might be a good fit if it wasn’t going to be operated for many hours (negating the fuel consumption issue) and the poor spares availability could be minimized by purchasing 2 or 3 of the same set size, allowing  cannibalization  of a set to keep the another set running.    

If you are interested in purchasing one try to learn as much as you can about it’s prior history before purchase.  As JWR said, try to check the condition of the oil, look at the coolant, check the air filter element, check the hour meter, does it have excessive corrosion on the sheet metal, does it look like it’s been taken care of, do the doors swing freely like they have been lubricated, look in the fuel tank for sediment, are there signs of fluid leakage in the bottom of the skid, drain the fuel filter water separator and check for water or condition of the fuel if present, check the wiring harness’s for fraying, check the control boxes for corrosion, do the rotary switches move freely, are the output terminal lug nuts stripped, try to find out when it was last started (after a couple years the fuel will gum up the injector pumps), and check to see if it’s been rebuilt.  Generator sets in better shape, with less corrosion, and fewer hours are more likely to provide trouble free operation, though corrosion and condition is not an absolute indicator as the sets are so tough. – Greg X.



Economics and Investing:

Nearly everyone who has bought residential real estate in the U.S. as “an investment” since 2005 can now call themselves contrapreneurs. The seasonally-adjusted Case-Schiller data for Q1 of 2012 shows that new lows have been reached in many markets. FWIW, I’ve been reading “The bottom is near”-themed articles since 2008, but I’m not holding my breath. In some markets, the majority of sales are either short sales or “bank owned” (foreclosed) properties. It may be another decade until the real bottom is reached.

Regular content contributor Pierre M. sent this: BIS warns global lending contracting at fastest pace since 2008 Lehman crisis

Diana V. spotted this piece by Jason Hommel over at SilverSeek: Silver Headed to $75-$125/oz. in 1-2 years

Marc Faber: ‘Massive Wealth Destruction’ Coming, Well-to-Do ‘May Lose 50%’. (Thanks to J. McC. for the link.)

C.D.V. flagged this: QE3 Likelihood Still ‘Pretty Good’: Jan Hatzius. JWR’s Comment: The likelihood of a one year pause in quantitative easing ? Think of it just like asking your neighborhood crack junkie to “take a year off” from doing drugs. Pay no attention to his promises…

Items from The Economatrix:

Markets are Facing A Rerun of the Great Panic of 2008

Crashing The Operating System — Liquidity Crunch in Practice

10 Things That We Can Learn About Shortages And Preparation From The Economic Collapse In Greece

Gold and Dow Flash the Same Warning Signs



Odds ‘n Sods:

SurvivalBlog reader S.S. in Mississippi found a comprehensive permaculture course taught by Professor Will Hooker from North Carolina State University available free, online.

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Nissan ‘Leaf to Home’ charger can power Japanese homes with a car battery during outages. (Thanks to James K for the link.)

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Chris C. bookmarked this one: Which VPN Providers Really Take Anonymity Seriously?

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R.C. sent this: NYT: Reducing salt consumption may be hazardous to your health

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One drawback of southern state retreat locales: Those nasty, tiny chiggers. (A hat tip to Deb B. for spotting that resource.)





Note From JWR:

Today we present two more entries for Round 41 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, and E.) two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 41 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and articles that relate practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Weapons Maintenance — A Missing Element, by Odd Questioner

Over the years, as I’ve been perusing the pages of SurvivalBlog and various other sites, one thing had been missing the whole time, and to my own mind, I completely missed it too.

It wasn’t until this weekend that the point was driven home quite clearly. You see, I was out shooting with friends, and taking in a glorious day. In the course of plinking cans and putting various sheets of paper out of their misery, my favorite M1911 light-framed .45 ACP jammed. The slide was nearly locked solid, and after finally clearing out the cartridge and the magazine, I realized that the pistol was in horrible need of cleaning. And yes, I was neglectful of that, as, I suspect, are most folks who use guns a lot are – bad habits do creep in, after all. Sometimes it just never gets done, no matter how many mental notes are made to do it.

Okay, so it’s time to clean the little beastie. I get out the tools, the kit, set it all down on the table, and… the solvent bottle was empty. No solvent. Anywhere. No idea why, but there was no solvent to be found anywhere in the house. Not in the gun closet, nor the safe. Not in the preps, and basically nowhere at all. Well, okay, I know full well why, and I bet a lot of you out there have the same problem – just that I found out this weekend, but you don’t know it yet. I’ll explain…

You have a huge cache of firearms. You have mountains of ammunition. You may even have enough reloading equipment and materials to be your own local arsenal. However, take a quick peek: How much do you have in the way of cleaning equipment? How many spare brushes, swabs, patches, and spare rods do you have? How much spare oil, tools, and solvent are on hand at home right now? Do you have enough to handle every firearm you own, including the stuff you’ve recently bought? My particular little problem was solved with a quick trip to the nearest sporting goods store (and I made sure to buy four large bottles of the stuff this time – just to be sure). Now how easily could I have solved this little problem if civilization happened to have collapsed before I found out I didn’t have any solvent? I can answer that – not at all without improvising, and improvisation is never as good as having the very thing you need.

My little tale (yes, a true story), highlighted two big problems that I bet most preppers don’t even bother with: regular weapons maintenance, and having enough stuff to actually perform it for months to years after that stuff can no longer be obtained at a store.

Let’s tackle the fact that hey – keep your weapons clean! I was completely blasé about doing it (a bad habit gained from years of playing around in local shooting events, where I routinely ran 600+ rounds through the barrel in any given event, without bothering to clean until every other event, or it saw 1,200 rounds). However, thinking further, imagine if that pistol jammed at a moment where my life really, really relied on having my weapon work perfectly. It’s one thing to endure a couple of friendly insults and jibes from friends at a gravel bank, but another thing entirely if I’m facing an intruder, my first shot didn’t do the job, and now I’m standing there with a half-open slide while the now-wounded (and now rather angry!) intruder raises his own weapon. The thought is enough to scare the crap out of any sane prepper, and once I realized it, it scared me rather straight as well. I spent three hours cleaning every last nook and cranny this morning, and a quick drive back out into the countryside with 100 rounds confirmed that everything worked flawlessly again. Once home, I cleaned everything again, just to be sure.

I even learned again how a perfectly clean gun operates a whole lot smoother (yes, you tend to forget), and that over time I just stupidly got used to the slowly degrading performance. It is far easier, and safer, to get into the habit of never considering your shooting day done until after you clean every weapon you used. It’s easy to think that you’re good to go with waiting until x number of rounds have been shot, but it’s a very bad habit, and one I’m glad that I caught and learned from – before that lesson came the hard way. Very simply put, always clean your weapon after you’re done using it. In a post-collapse world, clean it every chance you get, because you may not get the time to do it when you think you will.

Second item on the agenda – check your stores. No, not your guns, not your cartridges, and not your neat-o accessories. As a prepper, you should check into, and stock up on, the following items:

  • Cleaning solvent (the good stuff. Don’t go cheap here.)
  • Light gun oil (again, don’t even think of skimping.)
  • Spare wire bore brushes (because they wear down quickly when you actually use them.)
  • Spare small wire brushes (because using a bore brush to clean out the inside of a slide assembly is foolish.)
  • Spare bore and magazine swabs (because they get dirty in a hurry, and you can only clean them so many times before they become useless).
  • Spare patches (as many as you can lay hands on), and spare patch-holders.
  • Spare rods of sufficient length (those things are notoriously fragile when you don’t want them to be.)
  • A big pile of clean/unused rags, set aside especially for cleaning your guns. Make completely sure that they’re lint-free.
  • Spare tools specific to assemble/disassemble your firearms (the funny-looking wrench you use to take apart the muzzle of an M1911 .45 ACP, for example, because pliers will work but really, not right.)
  • Spare consumables for your firearm (examples? No problem: My .45, over time, will eat slide-return spring bushings, slide springs, an extra grip, spare screws for the grip, magazine springs and followers, an extra barrel or two, etc.)

So what if you only have a few firearms and have to do it on the cheap? Well, you can still get by with buying up and storing at least a half-dozen of those small rifle and pistol cleaning kits you normally find in the average department store’s sporting goods section. Each is usually self-contained with everything needed to clean your rifle or pistol, are sold by caliber, and each is enough to last about 5 cleanings (10 if you’re careful with it). They’re also cheap – averaging $10-15 per kit. I figure that by the time you crack open that last kit, you’ll likely be almost out of ammunition in your stores anyway. Just stick with a reputable brand, and avoid the absolute cheapest stuff.

But let’s get back to keeping these things clean in a post-collapse situation. Hopefully you now have everything you need to do that with. But hey, not everything is perfect in this world, so…

Let’s say you’re out of supplies to keep your favorite firearm clean, or you found a good weapon with a ton of ammo (Hypothetically, let’s say you’ve been a good little prepper, survived the collapse of civilization, and as a reward the SHTF-fairy drops off a pristine M16A1 and a can of ammo? Oh, but she didn’t think to include a cleaning kit. Go figure.) Or, let’s say you had to bug out in a hurry, and a pistol cleaning kit doesn’t make much sense in that bag of yours. So, now what? The need to keep that gun clean hasn’t gone away.  You’ll want to make sure it does what you want it to do, especially when you need it to do so. Well, good news! You can improvise. At the low-end, if the firearm is truly Mil-Spec, you can get away with as little as using soap and near-boiling water to literally scrub and rinse the thing (the heat insures that things dry off quickly afterward), only needing a light coat of oil when you’re done. If you can find/scrounge up some brake-cleaner (or even clean brake fluid, come to think of it), you can use that in place of typical gun solvent. For oil, you can use a rag and (very little!) clean machine oil, hydraulic fluid, or automatic transmission fluid (but use it sparingly! Too much oil attracts dirt and dust.) There are lots of options in a pinch, but use them intelligently, and don’t use it as an excuse to skip cleaning your firearms.

By the way, when it comes to cleaning your weapons, get to know the things deeply. Know to always make sure not only that the weapon is unloaded, but that no bullets are anywhere near the table you’re working on, period. I always make it a habit to move all the bullets to a bag on the floor, and double-check everything to make sure no bullets can be found in, on, or around the weapon. Know how to field-strip your weapons, clean them and put them back together in perfect working order. Know where all those nooks and crannies are, and how to get the goop, burn-marks, lead/copper build-up, and all that other crud out of them. Get into the habit of giving every square millimeter a close eye, looking for signs of a failing part: minute cracks, worn edges or lips, curling metal, odd discolorations, pitting, and any bulges or warping where there shouldn’t be. Replace those parts ASAP (you remembered to store spare parts, right?) Be aggressive about even the slightest sign of surface rust, scrubbing it completely off with solvent and a rag, wiping off the solvent, then scrubbing it again with a lightly-oiled rag.

Even if you don’t use it very often (or at all), get into the habit of taking out each weapon you own at least once every year (once every six months in a wetter climate), and cleaning it anyway, searching carefully for rust, cleaning out any dust, and working everything on it until it feels perfectly smooth and natural.

Yes we’ve been talking about firearms all this time, but let’s take a few moments to get into your knives, swords, bows, arrows, crossbows, or maybe the spare trebuchet you may have stashed in the garage. Just because it doesn’t spit fire doesn’t mean that you can leave it dirty.

Compound bow cams can clog up and the bearings filled with grit. Knives and edged weapons can pit and rust in a surprisingly short amount of time. That crossbow trigger needs to be kept clean and perfectly functional, because you’ll never know when your life will depend on it functioning perfectly. You would be amazed at how quickly that something as simple as a recurve bow can get dirty, causing grit to become sandpaper in the string notches, slowly weakening the bow overall.

If you’ve ever field dressed an animal with a knife, you already know how quickly it (and your hands) can get greasy, hairy, and smeared with gore. Now think about gripping that greasy, gory handle and defending yourself with it. Anything with an edge that gets used at all will get nicks in the blade, and any blade will dull after even the most careful use. To that end, learn how to truly sharpen a knife. Have the right oils, stones, files, and stropping tools on hand – lots of them. Contrary to popular belief, it takes a lot of practice and skill to learn how to do it right, but once you do, you can not only keep your edged weapons sharp, but can actually create an edged weapon out of almost any sufficiently-shaped piece of metal.

So let’s sum it all up here, and hopefully, you get the idea by now – you have two things to help make your prepping complete: One, get in the habit of cleaning your weapons every time you use them, and periodically if you don’t use them. No exceptions, no excuses. Two, make sure you have enough bits, bobs, and supplies in your stores to help keep those weapons clean (and maintained) for at least 2-to-3 years (or more!) beyond the point where civilization goes splat.

Do this, do it faithfully, and you will find yourself leagues ahead of the prepper crowd. You will be better able to survive. You will be able to hold out long after the wannabe commando types got killed off due to their own jammed, dull, dirty, and broken weapons. That is, long-neglected weapons which failed them at the wrong time: precisely when they were needed the most.



Letter Re: Storage Life of Brown Rice

Hello,
First, thank you for all that you do. You have made a huge positive impact on a lot of people in my life. Second, I have been doing some pretty careful observation of our long term brown rice supplies. This started with me doing quite a bit of reading in books and on the internet about long term storage of brown rice. Most sources say that brown rice starts to go rancid around 6 months. I was disapointed with this number and so I decided to test it out for myself. In February of 2010, I put brown basmati rice into two food grade five gallon buckets lined with mylar bags, sublimated some dry ice in the buckets, and sealed the mylar bags. Then I put them under the house (which never gets above 70 degrees) and one year later I rotated one of the buckets into use. No problems. The rice seemed as fresh as day one. Move ahead another year and four months to June 2012 and I pulled the other bucket out because we were finally down to the end of the rice from the first bucket. So now I have three different rice samples to scrutinize. The rice from the first bucket which was under the house for a year and then in my garage (which gets hot in the summer) for another year and four months, the rice from the bucket that has been under the house for two years four months, and brand new rice that I just bought to rotate back under the house.  I could not tell the difference between any of these samples. My wife, who is very sensitive to rancidity, said that she could smell a very slight difference, but that none of them smelled rancid. We have been eating the first bucket regularly and have not noticed any problems yet.

I would love to know the science behind my findings. Mostly I want to know how much the dry ice fumigation in mylar bags impacts the storability of brown rice. It seems like the carbon dioxide displacing the air in the mylar bag would cut down the oxidation process significantly. It sure would be nice if someone with the scientific resources could do some in depth research on this topic. I am going to start pulling buckets out after three years this next time to see if they will make it that long or longer. Hopefully I won’t be pulling them out before that due to the collision of some Schumer and a fan. Thanks again, – Jesse C.



Letter Re: A Home Purchasing Guide for Rookies

Mr Rawles,
I read the article “A Home Purchasing Guide for Rookies” and the response to it. A few additional points occurred to me:

Taxes:

“Almost all counties publish their tax rates on their public web sites.” In fact, while they do publish their rates, and their rates can be taken as accurate, those rates do not reflect the whole picture.

Buyer beware. Research carefully and thoroughly. Follow through on due diligence. While looking in a place where I’m now no longer looking — for this very reason — I found that the property taxing authority first decides how much money it will spend, then decides the tax rates needed to meet that requirement. In that region without some legal limit imposed on them they assess values for the properties that have no basis in the market for those properties except in their fevered imaginations. Such assessments ensure that the taxing region obtains what they have decided are their spending requirements. Imagine a retailer first raising prices 200% then offering a 25%-off sale and that nobody else sells those products to get the flavor of this.

This is precisely counter to a fiscally responsible approach that assesses according to the market value of the property based on what it actually could or did sell for, using its last sell price as a base then cutting costs in the taxing region so that their expenses can be paid for with the taxed revenue actually acquired. Without a more fiscally responsible approach properties are overassessed, people are priced out of their homes, which leads to the taxing region losing its tax base and trashing its economy. Yet, they continue the practice.

When evaluating the region’s taxes, do not depend solely on the published tax rates. You may have paid $X for the property, but those responsible to the taxing authority for assessment claim the value is $Y and will apply the published tax rate accordingly. Find out more about the region’s tax rate decisions, the kinds of spending it tries to do, the way properties are assessed, and how closely properties’ prices match their assessed values.

Finance:

“…I have chosen to place this mortgage with the small community bank in the rural city we are moving to.”

Mortgages are typically sold by the initial mortgage lender to other investors or companies to service. There may be several such sales during the lifetime of the mortgage. While the small community bank gets some benefit, and good for them, they are not likely getting the effect of all the interest money paid on the loan. Selecting the local bank may not accomplish as much for the local community as you think.

Budget – Down Payment:

“…and 30 years of monthly payments (that should be small enough to pay off long before 30 years by making extra principal payments).”

Use a loan calculator. Given that your 30-year loan allows you to pay extra to the principal with each month’s regular payment without any early payoff penalty and without any limit to the extra principal payment, figure the monthly payment by calculating an annual payment then divide by 12 to get the monthly. For example, financing $100,000 at 4% for 30 years gives an annual payment of about $5,783. After 30 years you have paid about $173,000. Dividing that annual payment by 12 makes a monthly payment of about $482. Recalculate by adding only one month extra payment to the annual ($5,783 + $482 = $6,265) changes the payoff period from 30 years to about 26 years (about $6,257 per year, or about $521 per month). By shaving off about 4 years, that $6,257 annual payment amounts to about $163,000 for the payoff period or over $10,000 savings (about 5.78%) for the life of the loan. If you can afford to pay more to pay it off sooner, recalculate the loan with a shorter period, such as 10, 15, or 20 years, and pay the extra to the principal to meet that payment amount. But because the loan is a 30-year contract, when times get rougher you can fall back on the 30-year payment amount. – Larry R.



Economics and Investing:

Jim Rogers’ Most Dire Warning, “Please Get Worried”. (Thanks to David B. for the link.)

C.D.V. sent this: Don Coxe – Emergency Fed Meeting & Gold Backed Bonds

Also from C.D.V. : Germany Resists Proposals to Aid Spain’s Banks

The Banker’s New Greek Strategy: Starve them into Compliance. (Thanks to B.B. for the link.)

Items from The Economatrix:

Shenandoah:  The Banker’s New Greek Strategy:  Starve Them Into Compliance

Oil Price Little Changed As Investors Track Europe

Gold Eases, Focus Shifting To Key Economic Events