Simple Portable Stoves, by Carolyn P.

The survivalist movement is growing at great rate today.  You only have to read some of the articles posted in this blog to know that.  But with all the fancy accruements available today some of the more fun and lowly survival items are overlooked.  Among them: The hobo and emergency pocket stoves.

These are so much fun to make, and so easy.  I remember first seeing them in an ancient tiny camping book from the 1960’s.  The book itself was a hoot.  When I cracked the book open the faded and almost crunchy yellowed pages revealed what I thought was an amazing thing: a complete recipe section with everything from biscuits to roast beef, puddings, jams, and eggs, and all off it made by can stoves, can cooking implements, and can ovens.

There are several basic designs of the hobo stove.  If you are cooking for multiple people and really want to test out complicated recipes, go for the large industrial sized cans.  You can go all out and use metal cutters, hole punchers, and even a saw to make things nice, but I’ve also found that a rock and a nail or screw works just as well.  With whatever tools you decide to use, there is a basic design among hobo stoves.  First off, cut the top and bottom off the can. A can opener is great, but use what you have on hand as needed.  Remove the two steel discs for a later use.  Cut a door in the bottom of the can, in a square, and flip it up. It now looks like a little house with an awning over a door.  Puncture holes around the top of your stove so the fire can breathe.  If you want to cook a pot on the top take a wire hanger, straighten it, and thread the pieces of wire through the top holes to make a place for your pot to rest. 

Now you are ready to build your fire.  Please clear a safe area, free from extra debris.  You can use whatever you like to build your fire.  For a medium sized can a good fire should take about six to eight minutes to boil water.  Your imagination is up to you as to what you would like to cook.  My personal favorite is eggs.  Missing a ladle?  No problem.  Take the leftover can top (or bottom); use a rock to bend it into a ladle shape, notch a stick, then thrust the “ladle” into the stick.  Wa-la, you go yourself a ladle.

This basic hobo stove design is of the most simple.  I’ve seen people do all sorts of different variations and they all have their merits.  One variation is to use a wire hanger to make handles and attach them to the top of the can, omitting cutting the bottom out.  Punch holes in this design on both levels of the stove, top and bottom.  The advantage is that in case an emergency, provided you have heavy gloves, you could take your stove and run.  However, the stove itself will be very hot and a safety hazard.

If it is windy consider building a fire screen attachment.  For this example, start with the biggest size can for the bottom stove section.  You may want to make bigger holes for this design.  If you are down to basic equipment: i.e. a rock and nails, for example, try and find a sturdy piece of metal to widen the holes.  Now take your smaller sized can.  The best fit would be for the medium can to balance nicely on the larger bottom can, seamlessly, within the seams.  Think of balancing a standard 15-ounce can of beans on top of a larger pasta sauce can.  It would be an ideal fit.  If that’s not possible line the two cans with tin foil when setting up the fire.  Take the medium sized can to make the fire screen.  Cut off the top and bottoms as well.  Instead of holes this time cut a “V” notch in the can, the point of the V pointing down. 

Now things are getting exciting and it’s time to build your fire in the lower can.  For this design it’s okay to add bigger branches.  The fire may reach all the way up through the screen with the V in it.  Experiment with air flow to make your liquid burn faster.  After the water is boiling an added egg should take about four minutes.  If using a larger cooking device it may take a little longer. 

Now let’s look at emergency pocket stoves.  These are great devices, easy to make, tiny, and there are a bunch of different types you can make with materials easily found around your house.  They are super inexpensive, and, therefore, disposable.

My favorite device is one that seems at first far too easy and simple to make.  Literally just tear or cut 10-30 sheets of a paper towel into circles that just peek out from under whatever you want to heat up.  It could be a soda can, a tin of vegetables, or even a coffee pot.  Find a smooth fireproof surface.  The top of an uncut can would be fine.  Soak the paper towel sheets in91% Isopropyl alcohol. 70% may work directly and it should be "salted out."  Fuels that float on water are not recommended.  A ring of blue flame should surround the pot and then the pot should begin heating up.  If the fuel burns up before the desired temperature is reached, no problem. Just remove the pot, replenish the fuel and put the pot back on followed by relighting.
Please be absolutely sure to replenish the fuel only after the flame is extinguished.

There are some very good web sites to examine this process step by step.  Another favorite of mine is made from small tins, such as pet food and tuna cans.  Take the smaller tin and puncture holes all around the top.  Remove the top of the larger tin.  Cut a hole in the bottom and remove, as best you can, with what materials you have at hand, enough of a hole so that you still have a perimeter existing around the sides of the can.  For example, if you have a tuna can, make the hole about the size of a half-dollar.  Now cut holes in the bottom of the can, the edge opposite of the hole.  Next, take the small tin and place it upside down inside the large one. If you have it, take aluminum muffler tape to go around the can and split it up the middle.  However, this isn’t strictly needed.  Now, put a layer of fiberglass into the can so it’s loosely filled.  The fiberglass will hold its shape after the first burn and it makes a reusable wick.  Please note that you should use only alcohol based fuels.  Gasoline could easily blow up if using fiberglass.

I’ve seen some pretty awesome “penny stoves,” that look spectacular but are somewhat short of practicality.   They are are easy to make, but in an outdoor situation they  fall short, due to wind factors and the length of time spent building one.  It also worries me that online directions on how to make them always are sure to say that they may explode and kill you.  Needless to say they are not my favorite.

The last idea I’ll leave you with is a mini grill made of a circular mint or candy tin.   Take the bottom part of the tin (the belly), and remove a large circle out of the bottom.  You can get professional and find the old fan part of a computer for the bottom grill, or go old school and fashion a grill from a coat hanger.  You will need one grill to hold charcoal on the bottom and one for the top.  Hold the grills in place by wedging them in, or, for a more pro look, use screws.  Your mini grill will resemble a typical rounded grill.  Create legs from either screws, additional lengths of wire hangers, or anything metal.  If windy you will need a fire break for this grill, made of folded tin foil or whatever you can find to screen it.  The advantage is that you don’t need an alcohol fuel, just a piece of charcoal.

All in all, it’s easy to make and prepare emergency stoves for just plain fun, camping and as cooking devices.  Man’s ingenuity is endless and these simple designs can easily be mucked around with to create imaginative stoves best for your particular environment.  The local weather, time of year, and altitude should all be considered in your personal designs, and also what materials you have on hand.  Some of these designs are perfect if you find yourself in a disaster situation, and even if you decide on more professional equipment for your survival stash, I’d recommend practicing making these devices.  No matter what the scenario, most disasters, natural or man-made, are inherently dangerous, and one of the number one dangers to us is lack of fresh water and possible contaminated water.

These simple and effective designs could very well save your life and the lives of your friends and family!  I hope you have enjoyed reading about them.



Letter Re: Selecting a Prepper’s Firearms

James Wesley,
I have found red dot scopes to be real helpful, and great for target shooting and plinking.  The problem of course are the [button] batteries. I have a cheap red dot on one of my [Ruger] 10/22 fun plinking gun.  Everyone loves it.  However, too Many times I have left the sight turned on only to have a useless device atop my rifle. I have spent much money on the special “photo type” batteries for these illuminated scopes (with and without reticles). Those scopes that have a regular reticle and the option of illumination is not as catastrophic as a red dot with a dead battery and no quick back up iron sights.  I have added Trijicon RMR Dual-Illuminated Sight (Ruggedized Miniature Reflex) to two of my survival rifles. The illumination of the dot is done with with ambient light and has tritium illumination for low light/night conditions.  The great thing is the the ambient illumination will last forever.  It is always there – no switches, no batteries, no problem.  In a TEOTWAWKI situation this is what you want.  If you are on watch at night or low light the tritium illumination is always there when you need it.  Yes they are expensive ~$500, well worth the investment, they are built rugged and solidly reliable.  This could be your life depending on this device, how much is that worth?  Do you want to bet your life on a $39 piece of junk?  You get what you pay for.  Yes the tritium will degrade, that will be anywhere from 5 to 15 years depending on who you talk to and how good your eyes are. However the daytime function will always be there.  The sights can always be returned Trijicon and the tritium replaced for a fee.  the choice if color is amber or green – no red, I have no problem with the amber.  As time goes on how much have you spent on these expensive batteries?  Something to consider.  I have no association with Trijicon or any financial interest, just a satisfied customer. – Richie in New York City

JWR Replies: Most people don’t realize it, but most disposable button batteries can be recharged. And even better for preppers, there are very compact photovoltaic button battery chargers available. Just be advised that these are not automatically regulated, so you have to keep track of the number of hours that they are charging in full sunlight.



Update on Chris Duane, SBSS, and Mulligan Mint

On Monday (May 13, 2013) I did my best to intervene and help mediate between Chris Duane and the Mulligan Mint to get them back to the bargaining table. I even suggested some potential terms of agreement. But they are still deadlocked. I’m afraid that this won’t be resolved until their controversy goes to formal mediation or to court. This is a very sad situation. I was hoping that they’d be willing to quickly settle this like gentlemen, but the rhetoric (at least on one side) has become so vitriolic that I don’t foresee an amicable resolution anytime soon. The latest news is that today Mulligan Mint is pressing forward with the re-launch of the SBSS coins, without Chris Duane’s involvement. (They are wisely setting aside 50% of the profits from current sales for Chris Duane in an escrow account.) Because Mulligan Mint is using Duane’s SBSS name without his permission, I decided not to be involved in promoting the re-launch. I can sympathize with both parties, and I can see that they both have some valid arguments. Please pray that Chris Duane and the Mulligan Mint are able to mend fences and reach mutually agreeable terms to making a clean break.

Meanwhile, Mulligan Mint is still reliably producing and shipping the American Redoubt .999 silver coins. This is entirely detached from the much-publicized Duane/Mulligan Mint fray. (To explain: Chris Duane backed away from the Redoubt coin project a week before the launch, and at that time he was apologetic and encouraged me to contact Mulligan Mint, to go ahead get the coin into production quickly. Silver was under $23.10 per ounce, and there was no time to dawdle.) I’m pleased to report that the mint is in full production and fully caught up with orders. The biggest delay is just in waiting for customer checks to clear. I have been promised that shipping delays won’t exceed four weeks, and presently the delay is much less than that. Rest assured that the American Redoubt coin project is not at all entangled with the legal battle between Chris Duane and Mulligan Mint. But again, please pray that an amicable resolution of their disagreement can be reached.

Next, I’d like to warn readers about getting overly idealistic when buying silver. I must remind you that privately-minted silver coins are not numismatic coins, and should never be considered a numismatic investment. With a few exceptions, low minting numbers, limited strikes, minting errors, obscure minting variations, and so forth are essentially meaningless in the world of bullion silver, in the long term. Yes, proof coins are pretty and make nice gifts. But when you are buying silver, I recommend that you simply buy genuine silver, and stack it deep. Ten years from now, when you go to trade or sell today’s “rarity”, it will probably be treated no differently than a battered “Christmas, 1987” Santa logo silver round from some no-name mint. So always consider that fact when shopping for silver bullion coins or bars. Never pay excessive premiums when your goal is to acquire bullion to preserve your net worth. Seeing the recent bids on the silver round auctions on eBay makes me scratch my head, and ask: “What herb have these auction bidders been smoking?”

Lastly, I need to reiterate the point that the published New York and London spot and futures prices for metals have become meaningless. Currently, most coin shops are charging $10 to $12 per ounce over spot on silver, and the premiums paid on eBay are even higher. The spot prices have become so grossly manipulated by short-selling investors that they no longer reflect reality. The real price of silver is what most dealers are actually willing to sell it for. And as I’m writing this, that is around $33 to $35 per ounce. So forget the “official” price of silver. So after you have stacked up your storage food and ammo, stack up some silver. Someday, you will be glad that you did!



Economics and Investing:

Reader F.G. sent: Ruger to Open Third Plant – Expansion for New Guns

B.B. mentioned this by Lord Monckton: The Dollar and the USA are Toast

Federal Reserve ZIRP has essentially destroyed household income growth: Households headed by those 45 to 54 see their real household income growth drop by 16 percent from 1999.

Items from The Economatrix:

Over at Mac Slavo’s excellent SHTFPlan blog: The Mathematical Reality Is We Are Losing Over 600,000 Jobs Per Month That Have Been Hidden From View

Generation J(obless):  A Quarter Of The Planet’s Youth Is Neither Working Nor Studying

Visualizing the Collapse of Fiat Currencies



Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader Jeff H. wrote to suggest this instructional video: Arc Welding with Three Car Batteries

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“Excessive Force” doesn’t begin to describe… Dramatic helicopter shootout and car chase in Rio de Janeiro. (A hat tip to Ol’ Remus for the link.)

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F.G. suggested: Used AK Buyer’s Checklist

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Michael Z. Williamson (SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large) found this link: Why Vultures Devoured Hiker’s Body in Minutes

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As if on cue… Two days ago I asked rhetorically,: “Is a magazine capacity of 16 rounds inherently more evil, criminal or sinister than a capacity of 15 rounds?” And then came yesterday’s news headline: New York Man Arrested for Having Two Extra Bullets, Violating State’s Seven Bullet Cap. This is just as arbitrary as Mayor Bloomberg’s ban on high capacity soda cups, but has much more serious implications. (Thanks to reader J.B.G. for the article link.)

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I wonder what Joe Dassin would say, if he saw his favorite boulevard now? ‘The Champs Elysee is a battlefield’: Riots on the streets of Paris as thugs hijack David Beckham’s team’s open-top bus title celebrations.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Above all, stay alive.  You have no idea how important you are.  This is John Connor.  If you are listening to this, you are the resistance.” – Christian Bale as John Connor, in the movie Terminator: Salvation (Screenplay by John Brancato, Michael Ferris, Paul Haggis, Shawn Ryan, and Jonathan Nolan.)



Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 46 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300 and 10 TAPCO polymer magazines (5 AR and 5 AK) courtesy of Armageddon Armory, E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 46 ends on May 31st so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Our Guerrilla Gardening, by Oregon Pat

Over the years our lifestyle of self-production has morphed from simply producing more of our own needs into an active learning, training experience for the whole family.  Our children have grown up working alongside us in the garden, enjoying our late-night “canning parties”, and lately helping to raise and pursue large animals for our consumption.  This last year our gardening has taken on a greater academic angle with more experimentation and trying new things.  We’ve done a fair amount of foraging in the mountains around our place, and we were wondering how our ‘domestic’ garden varieties would fair in the wild.  This is how our guerrilla garden began.

We already knew from years of experience with deer and elk in our garden that corn and other vegetables are a wildlife favorite, so we decided to see how potatoes might fair in various circumstances.  The internet is full of advice and experience, but our own personal efforts have been invaluable to teach what is possible and what is successful.  We chose potatoes also because of their valuable payoff in volume and nutrition for any emergency scenario.

Last spring we decided to see how potatoes would do in various conditions.  With lots of our favorites still in cold-storage from the winter, we had plenty of our favorite seed potatoes – Purple (“All Blue”), Reds, and Yukon Golds.  We decided on three main locations: 1) normal conditions in our regular, groomed garden; 2) ‘new’ garden conditions in land we recently cleared; and 3) rustic gardening in the wild parts of the hills around us.  We hoped each of these areas could teach us new things about growing one of our favorite foods.

In our regular garden, we planted over 50 potato plants to use as a control and also to experiment with things like using straw, dirt mounds, and even bucket systems we’d read about to help increase yields.  We varied the planting distances between plants, monitored watering, and even measured the effect of damaging the main plants might have on potato yields.

Adjacent to our regular garden we recently cleared out pine and fir trees to expand the regular garden plot.  This soil had not been cultivated or fertilized in any way – we simply mowed the grass and weeds, then did a rough tilling of the soil for us to plant in.  We wanted to see how suitable our ‘native’ ground might be for growing in short notice.  In this area we planted another 50 plants.

Our third location was chosen to see how potatoes might fair in the mountains of western Oregon.  Most of the land here is accessible by logging roads, and with so much space to use we were curious how the plants would fare.  First, we contacted local county and state Agricultural resources to make sure there was no legal issue with us planting domestic plants in the wild.  Also, we scoped out where noxious weed spraying might occur.  Finally, we decided on 4 different locations in the hills near where we often target practice or roam.  We chose these locations to provide different growing conditions – on top of an exposed hillside, in a small ravine, alongside a logging road, and in a small open meadow.  Would the animals find the plants?  Would they get adequate moisture and sun?  Was the soil suitable?  Lots of questions.

Our Experimental Conditions
In our regular garden we experimented with X condition to see how they would affect yields: mounding dirt around the plants; piling straw around the plants; enclosing a plant in straw and a bucket; spacing between plants; and ‘damage’ to the main plant when it flowered.  Each of these factors was chosen based on what we had read of others doing.  We varied the spacing between plants from 12 inches to 2.5 feet.  Some plants we regularly raked up dirt up to 12 inches high around the base of the plant as it grew, while others didn’t get mounded dirt.  We piled thick straw around some plants to see if they would grow potatoes in the straw, and if that helped hold heat, moisture, etc to promote potato production.  For 2 plants, we cut the bottoms out of 5 gallon buckets and placed the bucket around the plant as it was large enough to “see out” of the bucket.  Within the bucket around the plant we filled the space with straw.  One group of plants we regularly watered, while others we left to the elements.  I had read that if a plant was damaged around the time it flowered, it would put more ‘effort’ into the tubers, so we munched up some of the plants to ‘simulate’ crushing or deer damage, to see if it produced more potatoes.  Yield results for these plants in our regular garden area were most dramatic and clear between different conditions.

In the rough “new” area we planted, we simply rototilled the ground and planted the potato starts.  Some parts of this area had many roots left from the trees we removed, and even 3 stumps of considerable size.  About half of this area started growing field grass aggressively after our planting.  We also added straw and dirt mounding to some of these plants.  We did not give extra watering to the plants in this area.  We were mainly interested in seeing how the soil and conditions would do for potatoes.  In an extended emergency, would it be possible for us to till up yard or pasture and get a suitable crop at harvest in the first year to help our family?  Without extra fertilizer or watering, is growing our own food realistic?  How important is our efforts to remove grass and weeds in land we want to garden?  Lots of questions we hoped to answer for very little effort or work.  Big ramifications though for what we might find – especially if our dinner depended on this ground.

For the potatoes we planted out in the wild, the only “experimental” factor we added was to put an old tire around one of the potato plants to see if the tire would ‘warm’ the plant and encourage any noticeable yield improvement.  We found the tire along the logging road so it was a last minute idea to try.  Using what was available to learn something new.  We planted seed in a barren, clay bank, marshy wet soil, and even in dirt with a lot of ‘riprap’ rocks from the logging road.  Interestingly, the results in the wild were all pretty much the same, though we learned a lot from it.
I should say that the best part of all of this was not eating the results, but the fun we had.  We all had a great time planting, brainstorming and researching, and of course digging up the goods.  Our many children’s ages range from 5 to 19 and each of them was eager to get out and check the plants.  When checking on the plants in the woods, we often used the occasion to target practice, look for new mushrooming areas, or scout deer – it was always a great outing.  Learning life skills and enjoying this great world God has given us is always better (and more educational) when it is a fun time.  One of my sons was quite surprised when he realized he could use our experiments as a science project – he thought it was all just for fun.

Our Results
We regularly checked on and monitored the plants – noting any early deaths, plant growth, and observations.  The weather last summer was moderate, and relatively mild with regular rainfall and no dramatic heat stretches.  Good conditions for experimentation.  We carefully made notes and when digging the potatoes weighed the results from each plant.  None of our efforts were statistically defined, though we tried to randomize as much as possible.  Not truly scientific, but close enough for us!

Most of our insights were from the regular garden area, with all its variations.  We measured the yields to the closest ounce, but I won’t bore you with the number details.  The Red potatoes yielded much higher than the Purple or Golds.  This was expected.  We also observed that mice and mold preferred Reds over the other two.  The Red potatoes were still green and vigorous into September, while both the Purple and Gold plants were dying off or dead before mid-August.  These are all considerations for emergency conditions when our dinner might be on the line.  Red potatoes produced 5.5 to 6.5 lbs of potatoes on average; Purples put out 3.2 lbs each; Golds averaged 1.8 lbs.  Most of our experimentation was on the Reds, which is part of the greater range in average.

In our regular garden, the two most significant factors affecting potato yields were sun and dirt mounding.  The amount of sun the plants received was easily seen in the yields.  Mounding dirt vs. unmounded plants was even more dramatic – more than 30% more potatoes (by weight) was produced by plants that had dirt mounded around them.  The mounding also helped keep the weeds at bay so this might have been a factor.  We will always mound our plants after this experiment!

The straw around the potatoes had no significant effect on increasing the amount of potatoes, but actually had a large NEGATIVE effect in that the potatoes grown in the straw had much more mold and losses to mice.  Most potatoes had some damage and many were lost because of the mold and rodents, whereas those plants without straw had little or no damage.  As I mentioned, the Reds were much preferred by the rodents over the Purple or Golds.

The only noticeable effect that spacing had on the plants seemed to be related to the amount of sun.  plants close together but on the south side of the patch still had high yields, as did the plants spaced out more but not on the south (sunny) side.  Greater spacing also helped us to mound and keep the weeds out.
Those plants that had the extra watering did seem to have better yields, but it was not significant or really noticeable.  Not to say watering isn’t important for the potatoes, but perhaps the mild year we had was wet enough.  We don’t think that extra watering (unless a dry season) is worth the extra effort.

The damaged plants we crushed or munched up branches on showed no real difference in potato yield than undamaged plants.  The mounding and sunlight was still the overwhelming factor on these plants.

The plants with a bucket around them had lower yields than their peers.  No rodent damage but I suspect the buckets decreased the sunlight available to the plants.  All of the potatoes were in the dirt and none of them in the straw.  With all the ideas on the internet about stacking tires or boxes around the plant as it grows, I figured there would be something too it, but it didn’t pan out for us.  This shows the value of trying it for yourself, in your own local circumstances!

One final note on the results in our regular garden area was interesting – we planted just the “eye” growth from a Gold potato to see if it would grow to a plant, and indeed it did.  This eye start was about 2 inches long and we broke it off the potato before potting, then transferred to the garden.  It grew, but only produced 0.25 lbs of potatoes whereas the other Gold plants around it were producing 1.5 to 2.8 lbs.  It did something, but not much.  At least something to consider if you don’t have enough seed potatoes to plant a large chunk of seed potato with the eye on it.

In the new, “unworked” garden area, we saw similar results, though yields were smaller than in the tended and fertilized area.  Average Purple and Gold yields were 1.5 to 2.75 lbs per plant, and the Reds averaged 3.5 lbs each.  This is about 40-60% less than the same averages from the “normal” garden, taking into account the experimental variables we were using.  This is dramatic, but still encouraging.  Two to three pounds of potatoes from a plant in native soil would be a big deal in a year of famine or emergency.  With so many of our neighbors without gardens, it would be a big help if they had this option to grow potatoes without having a couple years to cultivate the soil.

Again, the amount of sunlight and dirt mounding demonstrated a big boost to yields.  As the quality of the garden area decreases, we would recommend spacing the plants more and mounding them.  Of course, fertilizing and other factors will also have dramatic increases to yields as the resources are found.

Also, those plants we put straw around showed much more rodent and mold damage.  Maybe we had moldy straw that also encouraged these losses- something to consider.  The amount of tree roots still in the soil also showed a negative impact – the 10 plants in this area (some of which had straw) showed about 10% fewer potatoes than adjacent ones.
The last observation from this unworked garden area was the impact that field grass and weeds had.  The plants in the areas where grass and weeds were thick (and left intentionally) still grew and produced potatoes, but were ~25% lower yields than the other plants in this area.  These plants put out 0.5 to 1.5lbs each, depending on other factors (mounding, straw, etc.).  Even the kids could see the value at harvest from weeding during the season.

The results from our final area of study – the real Guerrilla arden of the mountains, was disappointing.  We had hoped to hide our little seed potatoes in the waysides and remote mountains, then later in the year find a bounty to meet out need if we ever had to flee to the hills.  But any data is valuable data, and we had fun.  None of these plants produced more than a few small potatoes, of just an ounce or two.  Each plant had a potato though!

First, we learned how tough and aggressive the native grasses and blackberries are compared to our gentile, domesticated potatoes.  The native plants shot up, took all the sunlight, and in many cases buried our poor potatoes to flounder in their shadows.  Without human help to fight off the competition, the potatoes won’t have a chance.

Next, we saw the importance of marking or mapping our plants – we were unable to find many of them!  We tried to use rocks, logs, or natural markers to help us find our plants but on return trips our success rate was low – we found less than half of the plants by the end of the year.  It is truly a jungle out there!  When the plants were green and growing they were easier to locate and identify.  In September they were shriveled enough to make it hard to find them, and more difficult to positively ID them.

That tire we tried on one of the plants?  Well, someone needed it more than we did – it just up and disappeared, and we couldn’t locate the plant it was marking.
Elk do seem to like to nibble potatoes, though they didn’t completely eat them gone.  Turns out we planted some of our potatoes on the hillside where 4-6 elk regularly bed down (we confirmed the beds several times) and while they nibbled the plants, they didn’t outright eat them.  They might have been curious and then lost interest after the taste.

Our final observation on growing potatoes in the wild – no matter how “out of the way” you think you are, someone, usually on an ATV or 4 wheel drive will find your little potatoes!  We lost a patch that was way back in a ravine to at least two ATVs – they went in there and did “cookies” [turns] on top of the potatoes!  I don’t think they saw them and did it intentionally, but it made us laugh to think of how we thought we were so inconspicuous.  People really are everywhere.

Which raises a point about us trying potatoes.  We knew corn would not do well in the wild, because of wildlife but also because it is fairly recognizable.  When considering a garden for public or wild lands, it is best to chose something inconspicuous that another gardener might recognize, but not the general public.  Other than wildlife, people are the next big threat to growing in the wild.  Potatoes are both highly nutritious and inconspicuous.

For years we have been experimenting with our fruit trees, grape vines, chicken raising, and now potatoes.  Trying new things, and trying new ideas on old things adds a great spice to gardening and enriches our fun with the children.  It stimulates their creativity and natural curiosity and keeps them in the garden working longer!  It also helped us temper our thoughts that life in the mountains under difficult conditions would be simpler by growing a garden.  If hard times come, it would be better to have food cache’ed that to hope those potatoes are out there for our stew pot.  And our personal experiences have confirmed what Abraham Lincoln said, “Don’t trust everything you read on the Internet.”

This year we’ve decided to try pole beans and zucchini in our 2013 Guerrilla Gardening.  Pole beans might stand a chance in the wild if they can climb up and out of the cover, and zucchini grows like crazy in town, maybe it will have a chance.  Both have high nutritional values, and are relatively inconspicuous.  We are excited.  Our gardening experiments have been a huge success.  Many of the results were unexpected and helpful, and the time together invaluable.  What will you try in your Guerrilla Garden this year?



Letter Re: Sewing to Repurpose Items for SHTF

Sir:
In her recent article on repurposing material by sewing, Penny Pincher said: “The Army poncho liner is nothing more than a thin quilt with a head hole in the middle.  It’s camo lightweight nylon with thin polyfil for batting, a few strings at the corners, and bound on the edges.  You could make something similar.  If you didn’t mind the extra weight, you could use some thin wool, maybe in two layers, and sandwich that between nylon to make it ride smoother.”

I made something similar last spring, but with nylon on only one side. I like carrying a wool blanket rather than a sleeping bag when motorcycle camping. Heavy wool blankets get very hot — in part due to the nap of the wool directly against the skin. So I took an old olive drab blanket (washing it first to shrink as much as possible) and sewed a similarly sized piece of dark brown thin nylon to one side of it. After “quilting” the two pieces together by simply running it through the sewing machine a few times in both directions, I bound the four edges with canvas left over from an old couch, tan khaki in color. Now I have an extremely durable blanket/quilt (in woodland camo colors) that doesn’t get unbearably hot in the summer, but which can be reversed to make the most of wool’s insulative properties when required.

Because I started out with the largest surplus blanket I could find and pre-shrunk it, and because nylon and wool are both water repellent, I was able to sleep soundly with only my blanket in a solid drizzle while camping this winter in Mississippi. And the whole thing rolls up to about the diameter of a surplus closed-cell foam pad, and it’s only about half the length of those pads. So far it’s been used for motorcycle camping, as a ground pad for rifle practice, as my bedding while at the station where I’m an EMT, and as an occasional play tent for my toddler. Very durable, only been washed once, and looks brand new. – J.D.C. in Mississippi



Letter Re: Post-TEOTWAWKI Welding

Dear Jim,
I have been a welder, machinist, engineer, and someone interested in self-reliance for many years. I read the recent discussion on SurvivalBlog of post-SHTF welding with interest.

I do not disagree that thermite could be made from scrap yard materials (done it, with aluminum filings and black sand (magnetite) from the river), but it would require a custom-made refractory mold for each joint.  IMHO two other forms of welding would be much more practical.

Forge welding was the only available process up into the 1800s, and requires only anvil, hammer, fire of coke or charcoal and forced air.  Borax or other flux is very helpful on steel, as opposed to wrought iron. Common salt would probably work, too, but avoid the chlorine fumes.

Electric arc welding is infinitely faster and more flexible, and not out of reach post-SHTF.

Engine-driven welding machines are common, and can of course be used as designed as long as their fuels, usually gasoline or Diesel oil,  are available.

Gasoline engines can also be run on wood-gas, natural gas, propane, manure gas, with suitable carburetion;  Diesels of course on vegetable or waste petroleum oils.

A steam engine burning wood, or a water-wheel, could run a generator welder just as effectively as a modern internal combustion engine, with suitable belting or gearing to provide the right rotational speed.

A medium-size off-grid solar electric power system will also run some small welding machines for limited duty cycles.

Many types of finely compounded  welding rods are used today for specific purposes. However, a DC welding machine can be used to weld with coat-hanger or most other types of plain bare steel wire.  It is much more difficult to control the arc, and the properties of the weld joint will not be as good, but will be usable for many purposes by a skilled welder.  Nor is it out of the realm of possibility to make coated electrodes with better properties, as for instance the coating on one of the most common and most useful modern (E6010) electrodes could be closely approximated with wrapping of newspaper soaked in waterglass, or probably salt or soda mixed with powdered sand.

However I will leave you with a major caveat: If you are not a skilled welder now, then do not expect to do yourself any good by taking up the craft with improvised materials after SHTF.

One of the biggest income-enhancers for the general repair welder like myself, is the guy who buys himself his own welding machine.  Fixing it after it was fixed wrong the first time, costs a lot more than doing it right the first time. 

As with all skills you may wish you had in an emergency, do not wait for the emergency to acquire them.

Thanks for your service, Mr. Rawles! – Ben F.



News From The American Redoubt:

The historic flying legacy of Ontario [Oregon]’s Merle Maine. What an amazing collection! (Thanks to R.B.S. for the link.)

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Jim W. sent: Wolves vs Lion Hounds: Attacks Rising in Montana and Idaho

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Governor Otter invites firearms, ammunition makers to Idaho. (A hat tip to Rich B. for the link.)

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Jim W. sent us yet another good reason for the partition of eastern Washington: Attention Florida CWPs: Washington State is no longer reciprocal.

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A workshop in Wilsall, Montana will address “drought-proofing” farms and ranches and increasing soil fertility, June 5-9, 2013. More that 80 hours of instruction. Participants will learn about multiple proven technologies and strategies for farms and ranches that increase profitability, maximize water harvesting, minimize inputs, increase forage yield and build soil. This workshop is being organized by Cloud Nine Farm in Wilsall, Montana and Broken Ground in Bozeman, Montana. For more information, see: www.MontanaWholeFarmFertility.com or call Karen Erbe at: (406) 600-7881. 





Odds ‘n Sods:

Bullet blitz: Demand from public, government leaves ammo shelves empty. (Of course those of you who heeded the advice in SurvivalBlog and stocked up before last December are now sitting pretty.)

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Tomorrow is the last day of Camping Survival’s Mountain House Sale. They are offering Mountain House nitrogen-packed cans at 25% off and pouches and long term storage HDPE buckets at 15% off. Order soon!

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Reader M.V.R. spotted this: Use These Secret NSA Google Search Tips to Become Your Own Spy Agency

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Jeff H. mentioned: Mothers Milk: Grow Your Own Vinegar

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Los Angeles Wants To Confiscate Legal 10+ Round Magazines. Here are a couple of quotes from the article: “The city of Los Angeles has filed a proposed ordinance that would allow police to confiscate legally owned magazines that hold more than 10 rounds. Thanks to a motion by Councilman Paul Krekorian of the City Council’s Public Safety Committee.”

and,

“The unconstitutional law would ban possession of magazines under a nuisance law. They’re talking about property that was grandfathered for a reason.”

JWR’s Comment: That sounds a lot like an uncompensated “taking” (theft) to me! It also flies in the face of California’s State Preemption law (53071 GC) that restricts counties and cities from enacting firearm regulations. I must repeat that I encourage gun owners to move out of that Mickey Mouse State, as soon an possible.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“You may hand us over to the executioner, but in three months’ time our disgusted and harried people will bring you to book and drag you alive through the dirt in the streets!” – Field Marshal Erwin von Witzleben (One of the Valkyrie bomb plot leaders), August 7, 1944



Notes from JWR:

Today is the birthday of firearms engineer Theodor Koch (born 1905, died 1976.) Koch, along with Edmund Heckler and Alex Seidel salvaged tooling from the bombed-out Mauser factory at Oberndorf, and with it founded Heckler und Koch. OBTW, Koch is not spoken: “Kock.” Rather, it is correctly rendered in a deep register: “Cohke-hh”.)

Reader H.C. kindly wrote to remind me to mention this: Most folks have probably heard that Google Reader is scheduled to go off into the sunset on July 1st, 2013. So if you use it to access any RSS feeds (including ours), then get yourself set up with an alternate RSS reader, before then. (There are plenty of others available.)