Letter Re: The K9 Question

Hello. As an American Pit Bull Terrier (APBT) owner, I felt compelled to address the inaccurate information in the post titled, The K9 Question. Since the reputation of the ‘pit bull’ type dog has been shredded by the media and various myths, I ask that the information be corrected.
 
The post states; “On the other hand, if children are not necessarily a consideration and your needs are for a one purpose guard dog you might decide on one of the BULL TERRIER breeds commonly referred to as Pit Bulls.  They are easy to find.  Every dog shelter is overflowing with them because they can be difficult to train for the novice due to their stubborn, bull headedness.  But for the right individual they can be a loyal and fearless companion.”
 
There are several mistakes in this paragraph. First of all, the generic term ‘pitbull’ commonly refers to two breeds, the American Pitbull Terrier, and the American Staffordshire Terrier. The Bull Terrier and American Bulldog often get mistaken for ‘pitbulls’ but are separate breeds with separate temperament types and working skills.
 
Next, the American Pitbull Terrier is not a risk to children, any more than any other breed. The ‘pitbull’ temperament is friendly and loving to humans, although they may be aggressive to other dogs. A properly socialized ‘pitbull’ is friendly, outgoing, and does not make a good guard dog.  I think mine would give away the television for a pat on the head, she loves everyone. According to temperament testing done by the American Temperament Testing Society, American Pitbull Terriers pass with at a rate of 86.4%, while Golden Retrievers passed at a rate of 85.2%, and German Shepherds at 84.8%.
 
Finally, they are no harder to train than any other breed, and many APBTs are Canine Good Citizens,  serving as therapy dogs, drug detection dogs, and are world class dog athletes. They are a high energy breed that needs owners who are committed to proper training, socialization, exercise, and the restoration of the breed’s reputation. It is my opinion that the only value an APBT would have as a guard dog is based solely on the misrepresentation of the breed in the media and the myths associated with the breed. If you are looking for a true guard dog please consider getting a guardian breed like a German Shepard and do not get an APBT.
 
Here are a few links to back up my information:

Thank you for your time. Sincerely, – Jennifer L.



Recipe of the Week:

C. in Florence’s Boer Sausage Recipe

This is an old Afrikaaner favorite. It was saved, dried, smoked, boiled, grilled and fried. At a braai (barbeque) it is at it’s best.) 
 
 Boerewors Sausage Recipe
 
10 lbs lean ground beef or minced chuck.
2 lb of coarsely minced pork, or you can sub for this with turkey if you like.
3 lb pork fat which is minced coarsely
Sausage casings ( real or artificial, your choice)
4 tbs salt
1 tbs pepper
3 tbs finely ground coriander
1 tbs finely ground cloves
1 tbs red pepper
1 1/2 tbs nutmeg
4/5 cup vinegar
 
Mix all the ingredients together but leave out the vinegar. Let it stand for about an hour and then you will add the vinegar. Mix it all again and them stuff the casings for your sausages.

Chef’s Notes:

You can substitute the beef for a Game sausage. Elk, venison, or any other wild meat would be fine.

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

Homemade Sausage Making Recipes

South African Recipes

Boer Goat Meat Recipes

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!



Economics and Investing:

It is very clear that we are approaching a national debt crisis. This chart from the St. Louis Fed illustrates America’s tale of woe. Once interest rates start to rise–and inevitably they must and will–then the whole charade will abruptly end. We will suffer a debt crisis far more horrendous than what we witnessed in 2008. No nation can survive a sustained debt level greater than 100% of GDP for and extended time without a crisis.

Some interesting reading over at The Daily Bell: Chris Becker’s Austrian Perspective on South Africa, Gold and the Ludwig von Mises Institute

Jim Rogers: The Gold Correction Is Not Over

U.S. Civil Charges Against Corzine Are Seen as Near

Items from The Economatrix:

The Trigger Has Been Pulled And The Slaughter Of The Bonds Has Begun

Not Prepared:  17 Signs That Most Americans Will Be Wiped Out By The Coming Economic Collapse

Report:  Hidden Tariff On American Citizens In Immigration Bill: Millions More Stand To Lose Their Jobs



Odds ‘n Sods:

The latest in the long saga of U.S. military camouflage patterns transition: Guy Cramer Talks Camo Part V – Phase IV C3: Camouflage, Color and Cost. (Thanks to Matt L. for the link.)

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I was recently sent a few test and evaluation samples of some LED lights by the folks at www.CreativeLightings.com. (We’ve mentioned them before in SurvivalBlog, first commenting on their LED light “ropes.”) Seeing their new products, I was amazed at how far LED lighting technology has leapfrogged in the past couple of years! Their 18″ long LED units that replace standard 12 VDC fluorescent tubes, for example, have 160 white LEDs that throw 950 lumens, but they draw just 8 watts! Their new flexible LED light strips also seem quite useful. They also sell compact 12 VDC LED clusters that are useful for small reading lights. In addition to standard white LED clusters, they also make them in blue and red, to preserve your night vision. I highly recommend their products to anyone with an RV or with an alternative power system that has a battery bank. Just tap in to 12 volts DC anywhere, and you will have lights that will last for decades.

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Some more commentary on the ammunition shortage, from WeaponsMan: But I heard DHS bought all the Ammo?

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Weld County, Colorado seeks statehood: “[Weld County] is one of the nation’s largest counties, and at nearly 3,000 square miles it is larger than the combined land areas of Rhode Island, Delaware and the District of Columbia.” JWR’s Comment: If the county secedes, I’d then I’d definitely consider the new state of North Colorado part of The American Redoubt.





Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 47 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 47 ends on July 31st so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



The K-9 Question, by L.D.

We won’t be talking about the family dog here. The family dog, to most households is quite often an undisputed, full-fledged member of the family.  In some cases “Fufu” or “Spot” is treated better than some family members. Those privileged pooches will, of course, figure into these family’s doomsday scenarios and allowances will, undoubtedly, be provided for the little darlings.                                                                                   

In this article we will be discussing working dogs.  It is some Preppers’ misguided belief that acquiring a big, mean, muscle-bound ball of fur with flashing yellow teeth, straining at the end of a chain, could be an advantage in their favorite post-SHTF world.

Many Preppers either have acquired or are considering acquiring a dog for the specific purpose of employing it as  a watchdog or four-legged protector of their doomstead.  With the right balance of dog and Prepper it can be a match made in Heaven.  But if the match does not work or the training is flawed it can turn out to be just the opposite and the animal you hoped would have your back when the chips are down can be more detrimental to you and your family’s survival than the worst gang of marauding scoundrels you can imagine!  You don’t need enemies on both sides of your perimeter wire.  

It all boils down to training.  Without proper training and development of the pooch’s raw talent you cannot be confident as to what resource you will have at your disposal when you call on him to do his thing.  A well-disciplined dog can guard your wire, flush game, provide security, lift your family’s spirits, and (or) keep you warm at night.  The main thing that you must determine from the get-go is just what you will be expecting out of your pooch…what his “job” will be.  Training a dog requires just as much, or more, training of the handler.  If you do not know what you are doing how can you expect the dog to know what you want from him?

In decades past, training disciplines involved intimidation, punishment, and, in some cases, brutalizing the animal to garner the desired results.  Thank Christ we have come a long way since then.  Although some trainers still employ those age-old techniques most enlightened handlers in the professional training arena now-a-days approach the task of dog training from the “positive reinforcement and reward” side of the docket.  Dogs are like children.  If they are having fun they will work hard for you all day long.  Just don’t let them suspect that what they are doing is work.

A good dog is highly instinctive and can see 20 times better than you can at night.  He can smell or hear an intruder long before you can even imagine someone is there.  He can fight fearlessly in advance of your patrol.  He can be the best d**n point man you could hope for.   He can sniff out explosives, or, unfortunately, the bodies of your loved-ones if it comes to that.  And he will do it all for a “Scooby snack” or a couple of minutes of shared time with you and a tennis ball.  The term “man’s best friend” most literally applies, be it a lovable mutt or a well-trained working dog.
  
Here is where training the trainer comes into play.  The dog only has to understand what you want from him and your expectations must never waver or deviate.  Confusing or conflicting signals can return you to square one in your training regimen.  Consistency is the key.

CHOOSING YOUR DOG:

Obviously, the younger the dog you choose the better, and do your homework.  Picking up a  rescue dog from your local animal shelter is a commendable, charitable gesture…and similar to playing an expensive game of Russian roulette with your time and hard earned money. 

Again, you have to determine what traits you want in your dog and what his job will be.  You may choose to  go with one of the smaller, feisty breeds.  If all you want is an early warning system you may choose a little yapper to alert you to trespassers or intruders.  They are easier on your stores of food and water and take up less space.

However, here we are interested in one of the more substantial breeds…dogs with predisposed traits that are specific to the breed.  The most appealing breeds for the end of civilization as we know it, are the hard working, herding breeds.

If you are looking for number one on our list and the number one desired breed by police and military around the world, the dog that ranks highest in every category is the GERMAN SHEPHERD.  Loyal and courageous, a German Shepherd will not back down in any situation, they are for the most part totally fearless.  They are intelligent and thus easy to train and anxious to please.  They are a great guard dog but in addition they are great with kids and will lay down their lives to protect their master if called on to do so.  Once the German Shepherd bonds with its owner and the owner’s family that bond is for life.  However the Shepherd needs a lot of exercise and can get bored and destructive if left alone or unattended. You cannot go wrong choosing a German Shepherd.

On the other hand, if children are not necessarily a consideration and your needs are for a one purpose guard dog you might decide on one of the BULL TERRIER breeds commonly referred to as Pit Bulls.  They are easy to find.  Every dog shelter is overflowing with them because they can be difficult to train for the novice due to their stubborn, bull headedness.  But for the right individual they can be a loyal and fearless companion.

Other breeds that require consideration…

BELGIAN MALINOIS;  Less known than the German Shepherd but in the same category Malinois are intelligent, highly-charged and obedient.  Easy to train and excellent watchdogs, a favorite of police, military, and homeland security.  They are also good with children as long as the children understand that they are herding dogs and might tend to practice their herding skills on them.  In addition they are a ball of energy and without a measure of attention can relieve their boredom by digging holes and destroying your hovel.

ROTTWEILER;  An excellent watch dog and guard dog.   Intelligent, easy to train, their reputation alone is a deterrent.  They are loyal and trustworthy and can also be good with children.

MASTIFF;  They are huge and present an intimidating presence at the door of your shelter.  They are not that easy to train due mostly to their laid-back and docile disposition.  They are excellent with children and once bonded with the family are highly protective. 

DOBERMAN PINSCHER;  Exceedingly intelligent, they may be a handful simply because they are often smarter than their trainer and being so they require a firm assertive “pack leader”.  If you establish
yourself in that role early they can be loving and excellent guard dogs.  But Dobermans are not for everyone.

Any of these or a dozen other breeds or mixes of these breeds will give you excellent service in the field when the inevitable collapse occurs and will stand by your side in the tough days to come.  Properly trained, they can save your family and those dearest to you.  What more can you ask?         

ESTABLISHING TRUST: 

The first few days are very important. It is the time in which you to begin to create the bond that you will enjoy with your dog for the rest of your dog’s life.  Share as much time as you can with your dog just getting to know each other.  Petting, brushing, nail trimming, anything that requires hands-on participation on your part will go a long way in establishing that bond.  You should perform health checks on your dog from nose to tail daily.  These inspections can catch possible medical issues before they become serious.

Pick a quiet place, even if it is just your living room or kitchen and walk your dog around on a leash.  No commands or expectations, that will come later. 

Any food or needs that the dog has must be addressed by you personally.  Feed your dog by hand.  Everything your dog eats should come from you and you alone so that your dog begins to realize that you are, and will be from then on, his only connection with food and anything else he might need.  The goal is to get the dog dependent on you so that your dog identifies you with what he/she needs to survive.  Your dog at this point needs very few things in life; food, water, and your attention.  With these necessities coming directly from you a lifelong bond is inevitably established.

Do not attempt any command training or break the bond you have been trying to establish for the first few days.  This will be conditioning that will pay off when you enter the next phase of training.

BASIC TRAINING:

If the following sounds repetitious welcome to the world of dog training.  You must endure daily, mind-numbing sessions of repetition with persistence and patience your mantra.  Though tedious you must keep the training fresh and fun for the dog so he does not lose interest.  Bear in mind that your goal for training is your end game.  Dogs  learn constantly, whether you are aware of it or not, both good and bad behavioral responses.  You must establish clear goals by using positive reinforcement initially to shape the pooch’s behavior.

With each lesson learned your dog will become more enthusiastic at the progress he has made and you will find, in turn, that the same will apply to you.  There is nothing more gratifying than that “light bulb” moment when your pooch “Gets it”.  What a joy for you as well as Fido. 

Never punish a dog unless you are  100% sure that the dog knows what you expected of him, why he is being punished, and that his acting up or failing to respond to your commands was a no-no.  Just because he performed the activity correctly a few times does not mean he is sufficiently imprinted with the command that you should expect a positive result every single time.

Never give a command to your dog unless you are willing and ready to reward or punish your him for his response.  Again, consistency.  Do your research and understand classic conditioning and positive reinforcement techniques.  Remember, in the world of dog training, as every other arena of life, experts abound and opinions on training dogs are like elbows, everybody has their own.  It is, unfortunately, up to you to sort out what you are comfortable with and what best applies to you and your own dog.

It is best to use commands or verbal queues in a language other than the one your dog hears around him and that you and your family use constantly in your everyday life.  Example, if English is your native tongue, give your commands in German, Dutch, or perhaps French insuring those commands do not become lost in the “white noise” of normal, daily conversation. Without commands earmarked specifically for your dog the pooch may become confused or ignore you all together unable to sort out your commands from your family’s everyday babble.

SPECIALIZE:

With the previous accomplished you can begin to proof your dog’s training by walking him on a lead until he is comfortable with you.  Then move your pooch’s training to a variety of different locations involving distractions your dog will have to learn to face in his daily routine.  Your dog will not be
working in a vacuum.  He must become accustomed to the hustle and bustle of everyday life and
still stay on mission despite those distractions.

THE FOUR “Ds”: 

When proofing behaviors learned in these different environments you should only work on one of the following at a time, difficulty, distance, duration and distraction.  For example if you want to teach your dog to “stay” longer (duration), ease up on the other three “Ds”.  Concentrate on one discipline at a time keeping the distraction level to a minimum.  You may want to return to the kitchen his safe, familiar environment, until he begins to respond in a positive manner regarding the lesson at hand.  Concentrating on one “D” at a time.

During this time you need to move closer than normal and start with an easier command in the beginning.  Give your dog a “lay down” command instead of a “stand” command.  With the “lay down” command your dog will be more stable than with the “stand command” and the dog won’t have a tendency to creep towards you in his excitement. 

Once your dog understands a sufficient number of queued behaviors introduce some real life scenarios.  Dogs, for the most part, associate very well and the time spent will be invaluable. 

SOCIALIZATION:

Even after “the Event”, we all know is coming with the certainty of a run-a-way freight train, an unsocialized dog can give you a measure of grief that will only complicate an already stressed out existence and will be an  unnecessary contaminant to your daily struggle.  You cannot have your dog tearing up the neighbor’s dog or worse, eating his children.  That’s just not being a  good neighbor in any sense of the word.  Some people use “socialization”, our expert prefers the word neutralization instead because you will want your dog to pay strict attention to you and your commands exclusively and view at the world through your eyes and your eyes only.  Your dog must focus on you first and view other dogs, people, or any number of distractions as if they are a tree in their environment until you tell the dog differently.

BITE RESPONSES:
Considering bite work, our expert recommends attending one of the many protection sport clubs, such as Schutzhund, French Ring, Mondio Ring, Belgian Ring and the like.  These protection sport clubs have very experienced decoys/helpers who, for minimal fee, will assist you in training your dog in the necessary bite work scenarios.  Our expert tends to discourage the use of so called protection trainers that many of you might have become aware of.  Any doofus can hang out a shingle as an “expert” dog trainer.  You need to really do your homework.  If they are not willing to give you a list of half a dozen satisfied customers, steer clear.  Your pocket book will thank you.

Remember a poor trainer can do irreversible damage to your dog’s development if he does not know what he is doing.  A good portion of these protection dog training “experts” are only in it for the money and decades behind the sport club individuals who are more likely in the business for the love of the work. 

Note:  You can start you puppies out with drag rags but be careful and discontinue all bite training when the puppy is teething.

INTRODUCING FIREARMS:

This can be tricky.  Do not try to “bully” your pooch by simply staking him out and  bombarding him with gunfire thinking he will eventually become immune to the noise. 

The natural instincts of any living creature is to run away and avoid stressful or dangerous situations.  Loud noises equal a threat so your dog will naturally avoid gunfire.  Remember, a dog’s hearing is more acute than a human’s.  Loud noises hurt their ears far more than they do yours and yet you use ear protection.  Never giving a second thought to your dog’s hearing is amateurish and stupid.  In other words, a bad idea.

Get a second individual to take a weapon a good distance away from the dog to discharge it.  Then over a matter of time slowly move closer.  Rewarding him with a snack for each positive reaction.  When your dog emotes signs that the gunfire is beginning to stress him out, end the session for the day.  We use food rather than a toy to determine if the dog is stressed because the dog will, often,  still play with the toy when stressed taking out his anxiety on the toy.  A dog, however, will more likely refuse to eat if stressed.  An excellent indicator of his mental condition at the time.

Familiarizing your pooch with loud noises, his baptism by fire, should not be rushed.  You probably go to the gun range on a regular basis to hone your own skills.  Park a distance away, then move closer each time, do not rush it.  Soon your pooch will be able to initiate  your commands, in spite of distracting gunfire.  This will be essential in a post-apocalyptic world.  You cannot expect your dog to fearlessly charge a gun-wielding intruder if he has never been exposed to the shocking reality of a discharging firearm.

INNUMERABLE REWARDS:

So you see, you are not going to be able to go out and buy a dog, stick him on a chain at your compound entrance, totally ignore him, and expect him to perform like a champ…it  ain’t gonna happen, Spunky!

Having a highly trained security dog can be a blessing when this house of cards comes tumbling down around us.  But an untrained animal devouring your time and your resources is a burden you do not need.  If you are incapable of training your animal there are qualified training centers where professional dog trainers can do the job for you.  But you must understand, hiring out does not come cheap.  And when you get your dog back from the facility you should not consider him trained, period.

I recommend that if you employ a professional to accompany you and your dog and participate in the training.  The professional’s advice can help you smooth out your pooch’s rough edges.  This will help you with sustainment activities and continue to build your knowledge base to trouble shoot any possible problems.  Your dog is not a finished product like a new car fresh off the showroom floor, all shiny and new.  Training and reinforcing the training your dog has already received is essential for the entire time that you expect your pooch to deliver imprinted responses to given situations.
                                                                                                                           
If the foregoing has not deterred you from moving forward with your dream of having a tough-as-nails first responder in a fur coat standing loyally by your side…have at it.  It can be the best or perhaps the worse decision of your life!  The outcome is up to you.
 
Our expert sums it up this way,  “If all you have is a big stupid animal eating up your food, drinking your water (and, make no mistake a big dog requires a lot of water), and contributing nothing to your family’s survival, you may as well have a cow.  They taste better when the time comes that you have to eat them.”

Very special thanks to an expert in the field, MSG Torrin J. Lomax (U.S. Special Forces, retired), dog trainer/handler extraordinaire!



Letter Re: Observations on the Alberta Province Floods

Mr Rawles,
You may already be aware of the devastating floods Alberta has experienced in the past 10 days, with some areas receiving up to an amazing 8-11 inches of rain and over 100,000 people evacuated. 

The flood has washed out dozens of highways and bridges, stranded campers in the Rocky Mountains, and saw lions from the zoo moved to city jail cells.  The hippos almost escaped into the river. 

In even more worrying news, police have confiscated firearms from flooded residences ‘for safekeeping’ much to the outrage of the citizens.  [JWR Adds: It is noteworthy that with Canada’s system of gun registration, the police knew exactly which houses to search, for some categories of guns.]

Thanks to you and other preparedness advocates, many of us were able to avoid the shortages that followed.

Regards, – Al D.



Letter Re: Relocating and Transport of Firearms and Ammo

Sir:
Your reader who wrote regarding “relocating & transport of firearms and ammo” from New Hampshire to South Carolina is trapped. There’s no way out of New Hampshire without going through New York, Massachusetts, or New Jersey.

I’m sure readers in those states will have more info, but I’d suggest avoiding New Jersey at all costs. Massachusetts, despite its strong restrictions, may be the least onerous of the three; New York has a state law stipulating possession of five or more handguns is prima facie evidence of felony gun trafficking, New Jersey prohibits possession of hollow point ammunition (in any caliber) outside the home or business.

He, and you, are correct in not entrusting such goods to household move transporters, regardless of their rules. My suggestion would be to “bury” the New York/New Jersey/Massachusetts contraband at the very front of the truck under an absolutely packed and completely full load of innocuous household goods, make sure anything visible in the truck and in the first couple of layers inside the door is completely generic, totally non-suspicious “everywhere legal” household goods. Anything that could attract official attention should not be in the truck and especially not visible – plants, fruit (real or artificial), “weapons” – such as axes – or anything flammable. I wouldn’t put even an empty fuel container of any type in the truck.

I’d suggest planning the trip to get to Pennsylvania by the shortest and safest route, traverse the non-American states in full daylight, arrange fuel/food/bathroom/motel stops to eliminate all stops for any reason in any of the non-American states, even if that means paying higher prices for fuel. Have maps available so alternate routes, if needed, can be easily determined, and observe each and every traffic law very strictly. Make sure the truck you rent is absolutely reliable, even if that means paying more to rent from a company that has newer trucks. An additional few hundred dollars in moving expense is vastly preferable to thousands in legal fees and confiscation of your property.

Once in Pennsylvania, while there may be some two lane travel (I-81 is 4 lane from northeastern Pennsylvania to the Philadelphia area and I-84 and I-80 connect to it from the east), he can get on Route 95 near Philadelphia and it’s America from there to South Carolina. – Nosmo

JWR Replies: I generally concur. The Federal law does provide some protection, but some states like New Jersey are notorious for selective enforcement of their own laws. To be safe from prosecution from state authorities, one alternative is shipping your guns (or just their frames or receivers, for some models) to your new address, via a common carrier. By law and by the policies of the major shipping companies , you do not need to hire an FFL to do this. you simply ship them “from yourself to yourself.” This often done by folks who are moving to or from Alaska and others who are visiting Alaska for big game hunts, to avoid entanglement with Canada’s gun laws. Of course this approach must be timed carefully and there is the risk of theft. But it might be the best bet for folks with a lot of handguns or battle rifles.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Freeze Dry Guy is running a 25% Off Special All Mountain House #10 Cans. The sale ends on July 1st, so order soon!

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Top 10 Tools for Centerfire Rifle Disassembly. (Thanks to F.G. for the link.)

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G.G. flagged this: ‘Hell to pay:’ Residents angry as RCMP seize guns from High River homes

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P.D. liked this piece at Wired about the NSA’s capabilities: The Secret War.

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J. McC. sent news of another scandal that echoes the recent IRS revelations: New EPA Leak Farmers’ Info Given To Environmental Groups – Malkin, Megyn Kelly. JWR’s Comment: So what will we hear next? That the BATF and FBI have leaked personally-identifying information on law-abiding citizens (such as FFL, SOT, and Class 3 registrants) to NGO “intelligence gathering” groups like the Southern Poverty Law Center (SPLC)? I suspect that they may have already have done so.

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Yes, hackers could wireless attack the brake and accelerator controls of many new cars.

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F.G. recommended: Pre-Assault Indicators, what to look for: Body Language.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“And he lifted up his eyes on his disciples, and said, Blessed [be ye] poor: for yours is the kingdom of God.
Blessed [are ye] that hunger now: for ye shall be filled. Blessed [are ye] that weep now: for ye shall laugh.
Blessed are ye, when men shall hate you, and when they shall separate you [from their company], and shall reproach [you], and cast out your name as evil, for the Son of man’s sake.
Rejoice ye in that day, and leap for joy: for, behold, your reward [is] great in heaven: for in the like manner did their fathers unto the prophets.” – Luke 6:20-23 (KJV)





What is Money When the System Collapses?, by Mac Slavo

What is money?

Economist Mike Shedlock defines money through the eyes of Austrian economist Murray N. Rothbard as “a commodity used as a medium of exchange.”

“Like all commodities, it has an existing stock, it faces demands by people to buy and hold it. Like all commodities, its price in terms of other goods is determined by the interaction of its total supply, or stock, and the total demand by people to buy and hold it. People buy money by selling their goods and services for it, just as they sell money when they buy goods and services.”

What is money when the system collapses and the SHTF?

In disaster situations, the value of money as we know it now changes, especially if we are dealing with a hyperinflationary collapse of the system’s core currency. This article discusses money as a commodity in an event where the traditional currency (US Dollar) is no longer valuable.

In a collapse of the system, there will be multiple phases, with the first phase being the “crunch”, as discussed in James Rawles’ novel Patriots. The crunch is the period of time directly preceding a collapse and the collapse itself.

Traditional Currency

Initially, the traditional currency system will maintain some value, though it may be rapidly depreciating in buying power. For those with physical, non-precious metal denominated currency on hand (paper dollars, non-silver coins), spending it as rapidly as possible is the best approach.

It is during the crunch that ATM machines around the country will run out of currency as people aware of the rapidly devaluing dollar will be attempting to withdraw as much money as possible. This immediate increase in money supply, coupled with the population’s general knowledge of the currency depreciation in progress, will lead to instant price increases for goods, especially essential goods.

If your physical cash has not been converted into tangible assets, this would be the time to do so. Acquiring as much food, fuel, clothing and toiletry items as possible would be the ideal way to spend remaining cash before it completely collapses to zero, as it did in the Weimar inflation in 1930s Germany, or Zimbabwe’s hyperinflation in recent years.

Precious Metals

During the initial phase of the ‘crunch’ precious metals will be a primary bartering tool, but this may not last long. The old survivalist adage “you can’t eat your gold” will become apparent very quickly. In a total breakdown of the system, food, water and fuel will be the most important tangible goods to acquire.

Consider someone who has a two week or one month supply of food on hand. Do you believe they would be willing to part with that food for some precious metals? The likely answer is no. There will be almost no bartering item that one would be willing to trade their food for once it is realized that food supply lines have been cut.

That being said, since most will not barter their food, not even for fuel, the next recognized medium of exchange by merchants, especially those selling fuel, will be precious metals. For the initial crunch, silver coins, especially recognizable coins like 90% silver quarters, dimes and half dollars, along with one (1) ounce government mint issued silver coins like US Silver Eagles, will be accepted by some, probably most, merchants. For those trying to flee cities to bug-out locations, silver coins of the aforementioned denominations may be a life saver, as they can be used to acquire fuel. While we recommend having gold, as well, the issue with gold is that its value is so much higher than that of silver, that breaking a one ounce gold coin into 10 pieces just to buy a tank of gas will not be practical. It is for this reason that having silver on hand is highly recommended. Packing at least $25 – $50 of silver coins in each bug-out bag would be a prudent prepping idea.

In a total SHTF scenario, silver and gold may eventually break down as a bartering unit, as contact with the “outside” world breaks down. One reason for this, is that the fair value price of precious metals will be hard to determine, as it will be difficult to locate buyers for this commodity.

This, however, does not mean that you should spend all of your precious metals right at the onset of a collapse. Precious metals will have value after bartering and trade is reestablished once the system begins to stabilize. Once stabilization begins, the likely scenario is that precious metals will be one of the most valuable monetary units available, so having plenty may be quite a benefit. At this point, they could be used to purchase property, livestock, services and labor.

Water

Water is often overlooked as a medium of exchange, though it is one of the most essential commodities for survival on the planet. Had individuals in New Orleans stockpiled some water supplies during Hurricane Katrina, much of the loss of life there could have been avoided.

For those bugging out of cities, it will be impractical to carry with them more than 5 – 10 gallons of water because of space limitations in their vehicles. Thus, having a method to procure water may not only save your life, but also provide you with additional goods for which you can barter.

An easy solution for providing yourself and others with clean water is to acquire a portable water filtration unit for your bug-out bag(s). While they are a bit costly, with a good unit such as the Katadyn Combi water filter running around $150, the water produced will be worth its weight in gold, almost literally. This particular filter produces 13,000 gallons of clean water! A must have for any survival kit.

Because we like reserves for our reserves, we’d also recommend acquiring water treatment tablets like the EPA approved Katadyn Micropur tabs. If your filter is lost or breaks for whatever reason, each tablet can purify 1 liter of water. In our opinion, the best chemical water treatment available.

Clean water is money. In a bartering environment, especially before individuals have had time to establish water sources, this will be an extremely valuable medium of exchange and will have more buying power than even silver or gold on the individual bartering level.

Food

In a system collapse, food will be another of the core essential items that individuals will want to acquire. Survival Blog founder James Rawles suggests storing food for 1) personal use 2) charity 3) bartering.

Dry goods, canned goods, freeze dried foods can be used for bartering, but only if you have enough to feed yourself, family and friends. They should be bartered by expiration date, with those foods with the expiration dates farthest out being the last to be traded. You don’t know how long the crunch and recovery periods will last, so hold the foods with the longest expiration dates in your possession if you get to a point where you must trade.

Baby formula will also be a highly valued item in a SHTF scenario, so whether you have young children or not, it may not be a bad idea to stockpile a one or two week supply. (For parents of young children, this should be the absolute first thing you should be stockpiling!). In addition to water, baby formula may be one of the most precious of all monetary commodities.

Another tradable food good would be seeds, but the need for these may not be apparent to most at the initial onset of a collapse, though having extra seeds in your bug-out location may come in handy later.

Fuel

Fuel, including gas, diesel, propane and kerosene will all become barterable goods in a collapse, with gas being the primary of these energy monetary units during the crunch as individuals flee cities. For most, stockpiling large quantities will be impractical, so for those individuals who prepared, they may only have 20 – 50 gallons in their possession as they are leaving their homes. If you are near your final bug-out destination, and you must acquire food, water or firearms, fuel may be a good medium of exchange, especially for those that have extra food stuffs they are willing to trade.

Though we do not recommend expending your fuel, if you are left with no choice, then food, water and clothing may take precedence.

For those with the ability to do so, store fuel in underground tanks on your property for later use and trading.

Firearms and Ammunition

Though firearms and ammunition may not be something you want to give up, those without them will be willing to trade some of their food, precious metals, fuel and water for personal security. If the system collapses, there will likely be pandemonium, and those without a way to protect themselves will be sitting ducks to thieves, predators and gangs.

Even in if you choose not to trade your firearms and ammo during the onset of a collapse, these items will be valuable later. As food supplies diminish, those without firearms will want to acquire them so they can hunt for food. Those with firearms may very well be running low on ammunition and will be willing to trade for any of the aforementioned items.

In both James Rawles’ novel Patriots and William Forstchen’s One Second After ammunition was the primary trading good during the recovery and stabilization periods, where it was traded for food, clothing, shoes, livestock, precious metals and fuel.

Clothing and Footwear

We may take it for granted now because of the seemingly endless supply, but clothing and footwear items will be critical in both, the crunch and the phases after it. Having an extra pair of boots, a jacket, socks, underwear and sweaters can be an excellent way to acquire other essential items in a trade.

As children grow out of their clothes, rather than throwing them away, they will become barterable goods.

It is recommended that those with children stock up on essential clothing items like socks, underwear and winter-wear that is sized a year or two ahead of your child’s age.

Additional Monetary Commodities

The above monetary units are essential goods that will be helpful for bartering in the initial phases of a collapse in the system. As the crunch wanes and recovery and stabilization begin to take over, other commodities will become tradable goods.

In A Free Falling Economy Makes Bartering Go Boom, Tess Pennington provides some other examples of items that will be bartering goods during and after a crunch including, vitamins, tools, livestock, fishing supplies, coffee and medical supplies.

Another important monetary commodity after the crunch will be trade skills. If you know how to fish, machine tools, hunt, sew, fix and operate radios, fix cars, manufacture shoes, or grow food, you’ll have some very important skills during the recovery period.



Letter Re: Relocating and Transport of Firearms and Ammo

Jim,
I have a question that maybe you or the readers and contributors of Survivalblog can help on:

Relocation of residence from one State to another (for example in my case – from New Hampshire to South Carolina) – and transport of ammunition and smokeless reloading powder and primers.

The commercial Moving Companies, or using the “PODS” self-packed units all seem to prohibit their transporting any “Hazardous” materials such as reloading powder and primers, and Ammunition.

My Question is in regards to the best way to get a somewhat substantial collection and accumulation  of Ammunition moved InterState ?  We’re probably talking several thousand pounds, such as multiple cases of “spam cans” of 7.62×45 and other calibers.

I originally thought I could rent a “PODS” transport/storage unit, get it delivered to my house, and pack it myself, so that no one but I know the POD contents. However, reading the rules of the PODS agreement, this type of material does not appear to be allowed.

What is the Solution to get a large quantity of Ammo moved to the new residence. Selling it and purchasing new replacement after the move is out of the question in these days and times, as the lack of availability and price or replacement is out of the question.

Rent a U-Haul truck or Trailer and pack it myself and  transport myself ?  
Invest in a Truck that can haul a trailer and haul it myself this way , in probably multiple trips ?

Are there any laws to be concerned with driving a vehicle through States like New York and New Jersey with a load of this type ?

Any thoughts you may have on this problem will be appreciated ! Thanks, – “HikerLT”

JWR Replies: I’m sure that some readers will want to chime in, but in essence the only safe and secure way to transport your ammo is to transport it yourself, with a rental truck.When transport valuables, if the distance requires an overnight stay, I always pick a small “mom and pop” one -storey motel and ask for a room where I can back the truck up directly outside the motel room’s window. Also, see the SurvivalBlog archives about the merits of high security “hockey puck”padlocks.