Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 is now underway, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Animal Food Sources in TEOTWAWKI, by Michael H.

The prepper has many preparedness areas to consider. Obtaining and managing food, water cleaning and storage, security, communications, and efficient transportation, are only some of the areas that a good prepper will be concerned with. Finding, cooking, and storing food rightly seem to be the focus of many preppers preparedness strategies.   With food and water survival becomes much more likely.   While you may be cold or wet, uncomfortable, cut off from the rest of the world or in an unsecured location , you will at least have the essentials that will allow survival. Everything else can be worked out later.  Preppers as a whole are wonderful at buying food cheaply and drying, canning or otherwise preserving it for a later time.  Many also have MREs or some kind of freeze dried food that is easy to carry and lasts for a decade or more [if stored at a reasonable temperature.] However, not so many preppers factor in the huge boost that animals can give to almost any prepper’s survival plan.  I know that many people do not have much time, money or space for animals and thereby think that food on legs is not for them.  Many animals require copious amounts of all three, but not all.  We are going to quickly consider two animals that require little space, have little need for special equipment or pens and use very little space, specifically chickens and pigs. 

First, the humble chicken.  Chickens are the perfect prepping animal, as they will eat practically anything, need only a few square feet per bird, are very quiet (as long as you do not have any roosters) and are very inexpensive  to maintain.  Lets go through how to buy and care for chickens with a prepping mindset.  Chicks can be raised any time of the year, although depending on your climate it may be easier to have them arrive in the spring so you can take advantage of the warm weather and leave them to their own devices sooner.   We have always ordered chicks through Murray McMurray hatchery and have found them to be of consistently high quality.  Make sure to order your chicks a couple of months before you want them to arrive as they sell out quickly.  When the chicks arrive your Post Office will call you at about 6 am to tell you that your chicks have arrived and to come pick them up.  You do not have to pick them up.  You can let the Post Office deliver them as usual, but why subject the chicks to being bounced and jounced around in a mail truck for hours? 

Once the chicks are home the first thing to do is to gently unpack them and check for any dead or injured chicks (which is rare). Next you need some sort of enclosure to keep them in, either indoors or outdoors in a barn or shelter of some sort.  We have had great luck keeping our chicks in plastic kiddy pools. They are the right size and with some shavings on the bottom make a nice clean enclosure.  You can also use cardboard and make an enclosure as well.  Either way, put newspapers, shavings or sawdust down before you put the chicks in their new home to soak up any liquid from the chicks. Chicks need to be kept at about 98 degrees for the first several weeks of their life. One or two 250 watt heat lamps serve this purpose well and can be purchased for about  $15 at a local hardware store.  You can buy special chick feeders and waters for $7 or less but a low dish works quite well as a feeder and a low bowl or a mason jar turned upside down in a disposable aluminum pan works as a waterer.  

At this point you just need to refill their food and water (and they will eat a lot) and adjust the heat lamp.  If all the chicks are huddled tightly together then they are cold, so lower the heat lamp until they start running around a bit. The chicks may ship with a packet of Quik Chick,  a blend of vitamins that you add to their water for the first few days. If so just follow the directions until the packet runs out. Within about two weeks you can start easing up on the heat lamp( as long as its not really cold) and move them to larger more roomy accommodations.  There are many plans online for all sorts of chicken coops, chicken tractors and chicken enclosures.   If you have the inclination to build something big and fancy that is fine, but all you really need is a small movable pen, or a simple stationary coop.  If you have a small grassy area, or even better, a pasture, then a chicken tractor is totally the way to go.  A chicken tractor is basically a wooden, metal or PVC pipe frame wrapped with chicken wire and a roof over some or all of it.  The floor is either chicken wire or just open so that the chickens are able to eat the grass and bugs on the ground. After a couple of days in one area you just lift or drag the tractor to a new area and the process starts all over again.  If you have the land (and you don’t need much) this is the ideal situation. You save on chicken feed as you only have to supplement what they are already eating from the land, and your chickens will be happier for being able to eat their natural diet.  Chickens will also live quite happily in a stationary coop, a small garden shed works perfectly for this.  You will have to regularly put some sort of absorbent  material down such as pine shavings, sawdust, newspapers or something like that to help with smell. Unless you have a lot a chickens in a small space though, it’s really not that big of a problem. For feed, table scraps are ideal, they don’t cost anything and the diversity of the food means that unless you eat nothing but chicken nuggets, your animals will be getting all the nutrients they need.  You can also buy chicken feed for about $13 per 50 pounds which, depending on how many birds you have, can last over a month.  If you go with egg chickens it will be about 6 months before they begin laying, but once they start you should be getting about 1 egg per day per hen.  Not bad when you consider that for a a couple dollars of startup cost per bird you can get an egg a day for several years.  Meat chickens grow much faster, if you buy a modern meat hybrid the grow time is under nine weeks. If you go the meat chicken route make sure you call the slaughter house where you want to the have them butchered at least a month before your ready to bring them in, since they get backed up very fast.  You can also buy chickens that can be used for both meat and eggs.  In a survival situation these could be ideal since one breed of bird could supply you with both eggs and meat.  Ask your chick supplier, they should be able to tell you some breeds that do both.

Now moving on to pigs. While the chicken can be kept by practically anyone with even a small  back yard or grassy area, pigs will require slightly more in the way of room and containment.  You will most likely require about 150 square feet per pig, so a 10 ft. by 15 ft. pen is adequate for one pig, although the more room the better.  If you have more room to work with your pigs will benefit by having more natural food to eat and more room to run around. If possible, it is always better to get more then one pig, as just one can get lonely.  If you can only get one pig you can make it work if you have other animals, such as a dog or cat, that might socialize with the pig. A old bowling ball can be put in with one or more pigs as a toy.  They will roll it around with their snouts and it distracts them for hours. Every second they are rolling the ball around they aren’t thinking about how to dig out! Since pigs are the third smartest animals in the world after gorillas and dolphins, you need to put some planning into their housing and fencing.  In the old days the test of a good fence was if it was horse high, bull tough and pig tight.  Pigs are good diggers so it is important that there either be something around the walls to discourage them from digging out, or you need to bury the fence 16 inches so that they can not dig under it.   For pens, dog kennels work very well, or you can just fence in a small pen with high quality woven or braided wire.  We used Red Brand fencing which is very high quality, made in America steel fencing company.  Such fencing can be bought at your local farm supply or hardware store, and if your only fencing a small area is usually quite reasonable.  The two main things to remember about pigs are: they can dig and it is very important to provide them with a place to get out of the sun and cool off a bit. Pigs can actually get sun burned if there is no shade to protect them.

Pigs will literally eat anything.   So the only problem with feeding them is finding enough food.  If you call around to local restaurants and/or super markets and tell them your raising pigs they are usually happy to give you leftover or slightly out of date food for free.  Frequently bread companies have distribution hubs where most of the bread that is out of code, or will be out of code before the next time that company shows up goes.  Most of them will sell you a pickup truck load for $10.  With a little ingenuity it’s very reasonable to be feeding at least two hogs for next to no out of pocket cost.  Pigs usually grow for eight months before being sent to slaughter, so if you purchase them in the early spring they will be ready for slaughter in the late fall.  Call a local slaughter house( do a web search for you area) in the early summer to make a slaughter appointment, as they will fill up fast! 

With these two animals it is very possible to keep you and your family in meat, both in everyday life and in a survival situation.  If you choose to get a couple of roosters with your chickens( which I recommend if you can put up with the crowing in the morning) then you can hatch chicks if you wish, thereby extending your flock.  Then you will be getting both eggs and if needed you could eat some of the birds every now and again, since you will be constantly replenishing your stock with your newly hatched chicks. For the pigs, if you get a boar and a sow then every spring and sometimes in the fall you can will get a litter of between 8 to 12 piglets, enough to eat some and sell some to neighbors or friends. In sum, with these two animals, which are easy to keep, inexpensive to maintain and provide good food for their owners, a prepper can extend his food supply dramatically.  Raising animals thoughtfully can be rewarding for the family, responsible  for the environment, and provide nutritious and sustainable food for months and years to come.



Letter Re: Can I Burn Home Heating Oil or Kerosene in a Diesel Engine?

Jim,
I hope all is well. I noted your reply to this blog post: Letter Re: Can I Burn Home Heating Oil or Kerosene in a Diesel Engine?

You mention that home heating oil is nearly identical to diesel fuel. Three additional clarifications may be useful for your readers. The first is that depending on your locale and type of heating system, “home heating
oil” (HHO) may refer to a blend of different fuel oils, some of which may not be suitable for internal combustion. If you plan on using HHO in a diesel engine, ensure that it is Number 2 fuel oil.

Secondly, petrodiesel sold in the U.S. for use on roads is ultra-low sulfur diesel (ULSD) (<15ppm), but some marine and off road diesel is still low sulfur diesel LSD (<500 ppm). Number 2 fuel oil (home heating oil) can contain up to 1,500 ppm of sulphur. This is important because diesel engines newer than 2010 (and some as early as 2007) can experience damage to their emission control systems with higher sulphur content.

Last, most HHO is treated with anti-smoke and antimicrobial agents, as is petrodiesel, but not always. Check with your oil provider to verify that it is. Otherwise, microbes which feed on the oil can clog your fuel filters, injectors, etc. If your fuel oil lacks antifungal and antibacterial agents, this can be easily remedied by adding an aftermarket biocide (e.g. Bio-Kleen).

In closing, I will note that one solution to this issue is to fill your home oil tank with 15 ppm off road diesel. It will burn perfectly fine to heat your home or business, and costs only a penny or two more than traditional Number 2 home heating oil per gallon. In the event of a disaster, you can have a ready supply of hundreds of gallons of fuel for your diesel engine.

Thanks for SurvivalBlog and God Bless. – Mountaintop





Odds ‘n Sods:

R.B.S. sent: Apocalyptic images reveal the shocking scale of devastation in Syria

   o o o

The recent Idaho Patriot Rally, as seen by a leftist rag: Preparing for the ‘inevitable collapse’: Patriot rally attracts hundreds to Farragut

   o o o

Sara J. mentioned a free classic (out of copyright) Kindle book: Home Vegetable Gardening -a Complete and Practical Guide to the Planting and Care of All Vegetables, Fruits and Berries Worth Growing for Home Use.

   o o o

Herr Sprave is still experimenting: Did This Monster Slingshot Just Set A World Record? (Thanks to SurvivalBlog’s Poet Laureate G.G. for the link.)



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“If a man shall steal an ox, or a sheep, and kill it, or sell it; he shall restore five oxen for an ox, and four sheep for a sheep.
If a thief be found breaking up, and be smitten that he die, [there shall] no blood [be shed] for him.
If the sun be risen upon him, [there shall be] blood [shed] for him; [for] he should make full restitution; if he have nothing, then he shall be sold for his theft.
If the theft be certainly found in his hand alive, whether it be ox, or ass, or sheep; he shall restore double.” Exodus 22:1-5 (KJV)



Notes from JWR:

August 2nd is the anniversary of the death of my great-great-great uncle, William B. Weaver. He was a deputy sheriff who was shot and killed in the mining town of Tuscarora, Nevada, in 1880. He is remembered as the first Nevada lawman to be killed in the line of duty.

I’m pleased to report that the cover design, editing and layout of my upcoming book Expatriates: A Novel of the Coming Global Collapse has been completed. An audiobook and various e-book formats will soon be produced. Everything is on track for the October 1st release date. All of the major book and audio outlets should have it in hand by the Book Bomb Day. Please wait until October 1st to place your order. Thanks!

Today we present the first entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 ends on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Every Day Carry in Non-Permissive Work Environments, by D., Esq.

I’m a lawyer.  I’m a criminal defense lawyer.  Every day I put on a suit and I walk though metal detectors and into a courthouse where guns, ammunition, and knives are not permitted.  Other days I may visit one or more jails, where it should be no surprise that the above are prohibited, as are lighters, flammable materials, and pretty much everything else.

I also happen to be a prepper. I think I have a pretty good idea what may be coming in the not too distant future, and I want to be ready.

How do I balance these two realities?

My goal was to create a simple carry system that is unobtrusive and unassuming.  Something that would blend in and let me carry a little bit of EDC gear without notice.  No major bulges or anything conspicuous that could draw attention—from court security, judges, jurors, or even my co-workers. 

I considered many different systems.  I tried key-ring systems that wound up with 1.5 pounds of metal bulging and jangling in my pocket.  I looked at flat wallet-like containers for my back pocket.

And then I looked around me.  And I realized.  What is less conspicuous than a phone pouch?   I see lawyers with one or even two phone pouches on their belts every day.

I began purchasing. Some were too loose or closed with weak magnets.  Others rode on a single metal hook that jutted out far from the waist and tended to twist.

About 15 purchases later, I landed on the Phone Pouch Horizontal from Tactical Tailor.  It comes in several colors, including khaki and green.  In black, it looks exactly like a standard phone pouch–which it is.  But there are several very helpful attributes–and one drawback.

The first helpful design feature is that this item secures to a belt with two (plastic) clips instead of the standard single clip.  As a result, it hangs tight and conforms to my waist.  Other pouches secure with one clip (frequently steel) in the center, which allows a lot of torque and wiggle.  But make sure you secure both clips!  I broke several clips early on settling into my car seat.  In all instances, I had only secured just one clip.  I now double check myself when dressing to make sure I have properly secured both.

The second useful design is the flap that covers the pouch.  It is perfect for tucking a tactical pen horizontally through the top.    My pen is longer then the pouch, leaving plenty of pen to easily and quickly grab with my strong hand or weak hand.  So far, I have worn this setup daily for over a year and I have not lost my pen yet.  Simply pull the flap tightly, secure the velcro, slip that pen in, and use the pen clasp to hold onto the flap. 

The only drawback to the Tactical Tailor pouch design is that it is not “fully enclosed”. Like many phone pouches, it has elastic on the two narrow sides to allow for expansion and add tension to the phone inside.  And like many carriers, it also has four little openings at the four corners.  This poses a problem for very small items that could work their way down and out.  But for me, it works well along the top, as it leaves a notch for the tactical pen even when the top flap is secure.

The tactical pen model I carry with my pouch is the Operator series by Tuff-Writer.  I normally carry the sanitized matte black because it doesn’t have any markings overtly suggestive of its purpose.  At the same time, I cannot deny that it does have a “tactical” look to it.

With the idea that sometimes the best way to hide something is in plain sight, I have a second pen available when I dress in the morning.  This is the same Operator series pen in a beautiful shiny executive-looking NP3 finish.  It is just the opposite of a tactical pen—in appearance.  It may scream “showoff SOB” but it doesn’t scream “tactical”.  It doesn’t appear to be listed on the web site at this moment, but keep an eye out for it or reach out to their customer service, they have take pretty good care of me in the past.  Please note I have purchased and do not like the other pen models because the caps are not designed to stay on the barrel when in use.

Inside my pouch I carry a variety of items helpful for both work and survival:

  • On the outside I have a small stack of business cards. 
  • One wax-impregnated cardboard fire starter trimmed down to business card size. 
  • A plastic card with several turns of duct tape
  • One sheet of adhesive blister padding. 
  • A credit card size Fresnel lens
  • $20. 
  • Two Band-Aids and sealed disposable alcohol pads. 
  • A plastic card wound with spider wire. 
  • Imodium AD and flat tooth flosser
  • A microfiber cloth (for my eyeglasses)
  • A Split Pea lighter with several large safety pins attached so they don’t fall out of the pouch. 

Together, these items are what I need to stay comfortable, make small repairs, and perhaps help me handle a bad situation.  If asked what is inside, I explain that it has my “cards and medicine and Band-Aids and stuff.”  Now remember, I am a credentialed professional in a suit and I am frequently recognized by security.  I am not going to deliberately break the law to bring in something I am NOT supposed to bring in, but I will concede that I receive less scrutiny than someone off the street.

In the pouch I also formerly carried a skinny flint and steel system—the Exotac Nano  and a skinny metal whistle, the Vargo titanium.   But I gave those two items up as the Pea lighter will produce a spark with or without fluid and I carry a small flat 2-chamber Titanium whistle on my keychain to hail my dogs.  But both items remain on my dresser ready to be added if circumstances warrant.

Also on my keychain, with the whistle identified above, is an Amsler Knives Pocket Wedge.    It is not much larger than a key and it is not particularly sharp, so it does not alarm security personnel.  It is not a tactical fighting tool, but for opening boxes, screwdriving, or a bit of prying it is handy.

Also part of my everyday uniform is my briefcase.  I carry a modern black ballistic nylon bag.  Inside is a black Kevlar divider that I purchased from BulletProofme.com .  It totally blends in with the ballistic briefcase and has never been questioned.  In fact, it looks and feels exactly like standard laptop padding.  In a pinch I can sling the briefcase over my neck for crude ballistic protection.  I have considered adding straps to the divider itself but have opted to remain with it low profile.

I have several pairs of extremely fancy black and brown dress shoes to wear with my suits.  The fact is, I have come to realize they are killing me.  I have one pair of Clark Wave “dressy” (dressy in quotes because they still look rather sneaker-ish) and I intend to purchase a black pair for days when I can get away with it.  Because, the first defense in most emergencies—especially unarmed—is to put as much distance between myself and danger as I can.  As The Doctor says, “Run!”

And the second defense is to get to my vehicle as quickly as I can.  In my normal  stomping grounds, my  vehicle is normally parked at my office, about three blocks away from my courthouse.   When I am in my office, my vehicle is normally within 50 feet of my first-floor office—and is frequently parked right outside my window.  The parking lot is shared with court and law enforcement personnel and — at least during working hours and normal circumstances–is not going to be an early target.

So let’s quickly address my vehicle.  I commute 30 plus miles to work, most of it on busy suburban and urban interstate.  I have a large SUV.  Inside, I carry several days’ worth of food, a blanket, water bottles, water filter, first aid kit, trauma kit, and a SCARE Bag with minimal supplies to help me scare/fight my way home.  I have a concealed carry permit and lots of training; I do try to car-carry my  Glock 17 with two extra mags, but I cannot do so on a daily basis for family reasons.  If I identify things starting to “heat up” that I do intend to car-carry daily.  I also need to purchase an effective locking device for regular car-carry.

Of course I have also added a small duffel with a complete change of clothing and shoes.  I’m considering adding some gold coins to pay a boater in the nearby marina to ferry me upriver to a location that would be a very short walk home. This would bypass what I expect would become an extremely dangerous solo hike on foot.

In conclusion, I would like to add that this system proves fairly flexible on weekends and outside of work.  Thanks to the single pouch, most of my gear is containerized and is easy to transfer from clothing to clothing.  On weekends I normally add just two items.  First I add my flashlight; normally the Quark Tactical QT2L which produces 230 lumens off its 2 CR123A batteries.  However, if I purchased today I would opt for the newer model with maximum 780 lumens for a very short period of time.

My daily carry folding knife is a simple Benchmade Griptillian.  I ordered a custom model through the company web site and while delivery took quite some time, the design process was entirely fun.

As you likely know, knife regulations vary widely and in some cities even the Griptillian blade length of 3.45 inches is unlawful.  In my state, open carry of such a knife is no problem.  But when I go to my kids’ school, I do have a problem.  My state prohibits knives on school grounds but carves out an exception for pocket knives (folders) with a metal blade less than three inches.  As I am large with large hands, this posed a major problem, as all smaller knives came with smaller handles that were always swallowed up in my fingers.  The one and only folder I found with a sufficiently large handle for me to grip but a sufficiently small blade to be legal was the Emerson “Stubby” with a 2.7 inch blade . 

Note: This is my personal gear review and all items mentioned have been personally paid for by me. No consideration has been asked for or given.



Letter Re: If Life Gives You Tomatoes, Make Salsa!

Dear James,
Regarding the recent contribution from S.M.: If Life Gives You Tomatoes, Make Salsa! I have to question where exactly in Arizona they are. We’ve been in the Phoenix metroplex for eight years and I have to tell you nothing survives 115+ degrees.
 
Arizona has an amazing array of climates. Most people picture Arizona as the low desert that really only takes up about 1/3 of the state. With elevations anywhere from 300 feet (Yuma area) to 7,000 feet (Flagstaff area)
the growing zones really do vary more than you’d think.
 
I do agree with S.M.’s first comment of it being a huge challenge, but examining the context of their article, my best guess would be they live closer to a 2,500-3,000 foot level. And yes, there are places in Southern Arizona that are that high and higher. Elevation definitely affects plant survivability. Those places just don’t reach the temperature peaks that the low desert does.
 
This year we grew our usual cantaloupe and watermelons, tomatoes and sweet peppers, but also some corn for the first time. Unfortunately I got things going a little later than I should have so by the time late June rolled around, most everything baked. What happens here is this, in late June, before the monsoons kick in, is usually our hottest and driest time. I don’t care how much water you give your plants, with 115-120 degree temps with single digit humidity for even 4-5 days straight, things die. I always say, “if it’s outside, it’s fried”. This year I programmed our auto sprinklers for the raised beds for three times a day to help keep the foliage cool but everything eventually succumbed. The only survivors, (just barely) are the melons.
 
I definitely agree with the whole rest of S.M.’s article and feel they offer some excellent tips and advice,…my only contention is the timing of the crops. If you’re in the lower desert, you need to have already harvested
summer crops by the first parts of June. My suggestion for that is to get them going toward the end of January. This also adds to the challenge as Phoenix could still get a cold snap. It’s been a huge challenge and a lot of experimenting over the years for us and we’re still figuring things out but in a nut shell: summer crops start in late January and winter crops start in the first part of September.
 
I have been successful with sprouting seeds outside in the raised beds but inside is usually best that way you can keep the January stuff warm and the September stuff cool until the seasons adjust,…which really doesn’t take long.
 
With all of that said, if S.M. is in the low desert, I would like to know their secret. (Other than prayer, I have no idea.) Thanks and keep up the great work. – S.N. in Phoenix



Economics and Investing:

Reader James W. sent this: Why QE Can Never End. [JWR’s Comment: I concur. Quantitative Easing monetization is a pitiful sham. The Fed and Treasury Department fully intend to ride their False Prosperity Bull to death. They will only stop their monetization scheme when they’ve thoroughly destroyed the value of the U.S. Dollar.]

Canada Threatens U.S. with Oil Trains if Keystone XL Not Built

Items from The Economatrix:

What Would You Do If A Bank Stole Everything You Owned?

It Is Happening Again:  18 Similarities Between The Last Financial Crisis And Today

Here’s The Real Reason Why Wall Street Is Freaked Out About The Insider Trading Charges Against SAC Capital



Odds ‘n Sods:

As a bonus for SurvivalBlog readers, Ready Made Resources is offering a free box of infrared chemical light sticks (10 pieces), and a free mechanical surface trip flare for chemical light sticks (a $53 value) with the purchase of a AN/PVS-14 3rd gen+  autogated ITT pinnacle night vision scope/monocular. As usual, the original data sheet, carry case, head mount, and sacrificial lens are included. Ready Made Resources also includes a free weapons mount (a $99 value) and free shuttered eyepiece (a $40 value), which most dealers only sell as accessories. These scopes are priced at $2,695, with free insured shipping.  This is their best PVS-14 offer ever. These scopes are in stock, so shipping is within 24 hours and they carry a five year warranty.

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Another Carrington-scale solar flare warning, from an unexpected quarter: Lloyd’s of London.

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Reader Bob G. sent: So He told us what was coming and THIS is our strategy…really?

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Kevin A. suggested a web page on How To Grow Stevia (a sugar substitute)

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B.B. mentioned a short film that is loosely based on David Crawford’s novel “Lights Out”, titled Devil at the Door. In my opinion, the L1A1 deserves a “Best Supporting Rifle” award. And somebody needs to give the townsmen the oft-repeated “Concealment is not cover” lecture.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“They asked why we needed 30 round magazines. I thought about and considered the possibility that they may be right, so I ordered some 40 round magazines. Just doing my part.” – From a comment to an article about potential gun confiscations, published by Guns.com



Notes from JWR:

August 1st is celebrated annually as Swiss Independence Day, in recognition of the signing of the Federal Charter of 1291, which united Switzerland’s first three cantons. As of 2013, Switzerland has been free and independent for 722 years. (Our Republic is just a wee fledgling, by comparison.) Having a well-armed populace has assured those seven centuries of freedom for Confederatio Helvetica. Today at the Rawles Ranch we plan to do some target shooting with our Schmidt-Rubin rifles and our SIG PE57, to celebrate.

The clock is now ticking for residents of Maryland. They have until September 30, 2013 to round out their “lifetime supply” home gun batteries with proper battle rifles before a new state gun ban goes into effect. If you are a Marylander and cannot relocate because of family or work commitments, then I recommend that you buy at least one battle rifle for each family member, with at least six spare magazines for each–and preferably a dozen or more. And if you are on a tight budget, then at least buy stripped receivers that you can build up at a later date. (In the eyes of the law in most states, it is just the receiver that constitutes the “firearm.”)



Writing Contest Winners and New Prizes

We’ve completed the judging for Round 47 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest.

But first, I’d like to announce that two new prizes have been added to the prize package for Round 48, et sequitur. These are:

A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. This addition brings the value of just the First Prize package to $3,990!

and,

A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value. This addition brings the value of just the Second Prize package to $3,020!

Many thanks to these companies for their generosity. They deserve your patronage. When you contact them, please mention that you saw the link on SurvivalBlog. Thanks!

The prize winners for Round 47 are…

First Prize goes to Sophie for Prepping the Texas Cowboy Way, posted on July 12, 2013.

She will receive: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize goes to Seth T. for  Learning 52 Skills: Applying a Purchasing Plan Approach to Learning New Skills, posted on July 26, 2013.

He will receive: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize goes to L.D. for The K-9 Question, posted on June 30, 2013

He will receive: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Honorable Mention Awards ($30 Amazon gift cards) go to the writers of these 15 fine articles:

Note to all prize winners: Please e-mail us to confirm your current e-mail addresses. And the top three prize winners will also need to send us their UPS and USPS addresses. Thanks!

Today we begin Round 48 of the contest. This round will end on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging. – J.W.R.



All-American Tool Manufacturers

Following up on my recently-posted list of field gear makers that have all American-made products, I’ve compiled a comparable list of American tool makers.

The Sell-Outs

Some companies that have long been thought of as “American” companies now produce most or all of their tools overseas. For example, Craftsman (the Sears house brand) now produces many of their tools in Asia. Others include: Cooper, Disston, Eastwood, Greenlee, Lufkin, Milwaukee, Peerless, Porter Cable, Shurlite, Snap-On, Thorsen, Vise-Grip, Vermont American, Weller, Williams, and Winchester. The many, many others are almost too numerous to list.

Some of the “good guy” companies that I will list here sell a few imported tools, but to qualify for inclusion, they must sell mostly American-made tools (and component parts.) Also, beware even “All American” tool companies source their plastic storage boxes, their belt pouches, and their tool bags overseas.

What to Buy?

When I was growing up in the 1960s and 1970s, I would simply look at my father’s collection of tools to get an idea of the good brands to buy. My kids can’t safely do that today. Quite sadly, the majority of those tool companies have now moved their production offshore.

Do your homework before you buy! With the exception of high speed cutting tools, the vast majority of American tool manufacturing has moved offshore to mainland China. (The home of laogai “Reform Through Labor” prison factories.) Rather than just be depressed about this situation, I have resolved to do something to counter this trend. I urge all of my readers to do the following:

1.) Don’t just blithely purchase merchandise without first checking on its country of origin. Take the time to LOOK at labels! When buying from mailorder catalogs or online, take a minute to call and ask, before you order if the country of origin is uncertain.

2.) If a product listing says “imported”, then the odds are now better than 80% that it is made in mainland China. So skip it.

3.) Be sure to thank the management of these companies for keeping their production in the States, and tell them that they earned your business because of it.

Companies that proudly still offer “Made in USA” tools:

Measurement, Squaring, and Leveling Tools

  • Chappell Universal Square and Rule – Framing squares and other carpentry measuring/layout tools. Made in Maine.
  • Crick Tool – Traditional wood frame spirit levels. (Made in Ben Wheeler, Texas.)
  • Fischer Machine – Edge Finders, Vee Blocks and Clamps, and PeeDee thread measuring wires.
  • Port Austin Level and Tool – Wood and aluminum spirit levels. (Made in Michigan.)
  • Kraft Tool Company – Spirit levels as well as concrete and masonry tools.
  • L.S. Starrett Co. – Calipers, levels, tape measures, micrometers, dial indicators, and gage blocks. Most are still made in USA at their plants in Ohio, Massachusetts, Minnesota and North Carolina. (Some imported products, so see their catalog or web site, to be sure.)
  • U.S. Tape Company – The only domestic tape measure manufacturing company that makes a full line of tapes.


Wrenches, Socket Bits, and Socket Sets

  • Armstrong Tools – A wide variety of tools, all made in USA. (Now owned by Danaher Corporation.)
  • Bondhus – Various hex tools, including ball head. (Made in Minnesota.)
  • Bristol Wrench – The originators of the Bristol Spline Drive System.
  • Channellock – A wide variety of of pliers and other hand tools, including, of course, their patented slip-joint pliers. (Made in Pennsylvania.)
  • Eklind Tool Co. – Hex (Allen head) and Torx head tools, including folding, L-keys, and T-keys.
  • Klein Tools – This company was mention by nearly a dozen SurvivalBlog readers. They make a wide variety of hand tools at nine factories in Illinois. (A few of their products are imported, but those are noted in their catalog and on their web page.) Klein tools are widely available at hardware and Big Box stores.
  • Lisle Tools – Torx head and specialty automotive tools.
  • Loggerhead Tools – Adjustable wrenches, including the “Bionic” wrench.
  • Montana Brand Tools – Drive sets, drills, and more. (Made in Ronan, Montana.)
  • OTC – Wheel bearing wrenches and gear pullers. (Note that many other OTC products are imported.)
  • Precision Instruments – Click torque wrenches. Unlike other torque wrenches, these don’t need to be “turned down” after use.
  • S-K Handtool – Socket wrenches, sockets, impact sockets, adjustable wrenches, screwdrivers, punches, chisels, hammers, and more.
  • Snap-on Tools – A huge variety of tools. They have four factories, all in the U.S. (In Elkmont, Alabama; Algona, Iowa; Elizabethton, Tennessee; and Milwaukee, Wisconsin.) Most Snap-on products are US-made, but they also catalog some others tools that are imported. (So be sure to check.)
  • Superb Wrench – Filter wrenches.


Cutting Tools & Saws

  • American Carbide – Carbide end mills, burrs, and router bits.
  • Atlas Cutting Tools – Carbide, high speed steel and cobalt cutting tools made with domestic (USA) carbide.
  • Blu-Mol – (An American division of Disston.) Drill bits and power saw blades. Note: Disston’s domestic operation is in South Deerfield, Massachusetts. But some of their tools are made in China.
  • Cenco Grinding – Drill blanks, Core Pins, Go/No-Go Gages, Plug Gages, Punches, Guide Pins, and Stainless Pins
  • Diamond Saw Works – Makers of Sterling brand saw blades. Blades for band saws, reciprocating saws, jig saws, hack saws, and more.
  • Eagle America – Router bits and jigs. More than 900 patterns of router bits. (Made in Ohio.)
  • Forrest’s Blades – Excellent circular saw blades.
  • Hanson Tools – (a division of Irwin Tools) Taps and dies
  • Hart Steel – Hand-made straight razors. (Useful for more than just shaving.)
  • Imperial Blades – Oscillating blades.
  • Katie Jig – Dovetail cutting jigs.
  • King Tool – Hobby and craft tools. (Their knife sets are a lot like the old standby X-Acto brand–which sadly went offshore.)
  • Kodiak Cutting Tools – End mills, taps, twist drills, thread mills, burs, carbide drills and reamers
  • Lakeshore Carbide – Carbide end mills, center drills, and countersinks, made with American carbide.
  • Lie-Nielsen Toolworks – Woodworking block planes, bench planes, and chisels. (Made in Maine.)
  • Mastercut Tool Corp. – High Speed Steel Drills and Taps.
  • Mayhew – Punches, chisels, pry bars, etc.
  • Midwest Tool & Cutlery (aka Midwest Snips) – Forged blade hand tools, including metal cutting snips and other edged hand tools. Made in Minnesota.
  • MK Diamond – Masonry and Lapidary Cutting Saws.
  • Montana Brand Tools – Drills and drive sets, including titanium drill bits, magnetic screw guides, and more. Their “4-in1” self-countersinking bit/drivers are brilliant. (Made in Ronan, Montana.)
  • Niagara Cutter – Carbide and diamond-coated carbide cutting tools. (Headquartered in Amherst, but their tools are made in Massachusetts and Pennsylvania.)
  • Norseman Drill and Tool – JWR’s favorite brand of drill bits.
  • RedLine Tools – Machine tools (carbide end mills, drills, thread mills, tool holders, and cutting lubricants)
  • Scientific Cutting Tools (SCT) – Carbide and carbide-coated tools.
  • Severance Tool Industries – High-speed steel and carbide cutting tools
  • SGS Tool Company – Solid carbide rotary cutting tools: Burrs, drills, end mills, and router bits. (Made in Ohio.)
  • Silvey – Electric chainsaw sharpeners. (Unlike the cheap imported chain grinders, these cut a precision square notch.)
  • Southeast Tool – Router Bits and Drill Bits
  • Titan USA – Carbide, high speed steel,and cobalt cutting tools.
  • Toolco Industrial Corp. – Various cutting tools including Solid Carbide End Mills, Taps & Dies, Drills, HSS & Cobalt End Mills, Micro Tools, Threadmills, Carbide Burrs, Countersinks, Slotters, Door Bits, and Reamers
  • Triumph Twist Drill – Twist drills, tile drills, and taps & die,
  • Viking Drill – Various rotary cutting tools including drill bits, tap & dies, and annular cutters
  • Vortex Tool Company – Router and insert cutting tools.
  • Wenzloff & Sons – Awesome hand saws. Presently very limited production. (So it is best to buy them on the secondary market.)
  • Whiteside Machine Co. – Solid carbide and carbide-tipped router bits, form tools, spirals, and slotting cutters/arbors. Also a good assortment of chucks.
  • World’s Best Saw Blades – Circular saw blades, dubbed: “Flattest, Truest, Smoothest, Best Made Blades… Anywhere”
  • Xuron Corporation – Shears, pliers and forming tools. (Made in Saco, Maine.)

Knives and Multi-Tools:


Hand Tools (Various)

  • ABC Hammers – Brass and bronze hammers.
  • Armstrong Tools – A wide variety of tools, all made in USA. (Now owned by Danaher Corporation.)
  • Arrow Fastener – Staple guns of all sorts. Note that some Arrow tools are imported, so be sure to check before you order.
  • Barco Tools – A wide variety of had tools including hammers, axes, pry bars, digging bars, trowels, etc.
  • Barr Specialty Tools – Excellent hand-forged woodworking tools such as adzes, chisels, draw knives, gouges, knives, mallets, and slicks. (Made in McCall, Idaho.)
  • Bicycle Tool – Specialty bike tools. They also make a fantastic 1/4-inch offset driver.
  • Blue Spruce Toolworks – Nice woodworking chisels, marking knives, scratch awls and mallets. (Made in Oregon.)
  • Bridge City Tool Works – Gorgeous (brass and rosewood!) woodworking tools including chisels, squares, Japanese saws, and planes. Pre-sold, in limited run batches. (Made in Oregon.)
  • Bully Tools – Shovels, hoes, planters, and trowels.
  • Chapman Mfg. Tools – Ratchets, drivers, and adaptors for Allen, Bristol, Phillips, and Torx head fasteners.
  • Council Tool – Reportedly, the only axe maker in the country that still forges its own axes. (Made in Lake Waccamaw, North Carolina)
  • Crosscut Saw Company – Logging hand saws and accessories. (Made in Seneca Falls, New York.)
  • Estwing Tools – Hammers, bars, small axes, and mineralogist picks
  • Hardcore Hammers – Framing hammers. (Made in Kansas.)
  • INCRA Precision Tools – Dovetail and precision miter fences for table saws and router tables. (Made in Texas. )
  • Kahn Tools – Retailers of exclusively American-made products from more than 50 companies.
  • Klein Tools – This great company was mentioned by nearly a dozen SurvivalBlog readers. They make a wide variety of hand tools at nine factories in Illinois. (A few of their products are imported, but those are noted in their catalog and on their web page.) Klein tools are widely available at hardware and Big Box stores.
  • Logrite – Logging hand tools.
  • Lumberjack Tools – Tenon Cutters.
  • Moody Tools – Excellent miniature tools, such as jeweler’s screwdrivers.
  • Park Tool – Bicycle maintenance and repair tools, made in Minnesota. (But their multi-tools are imported.)
  • Peavey Manufacturing – Axes, post hole diggers and off course Peaveys. (Made in Eddington Maine.)
  • Pratt-Read (now owned by Ideal) – Screwdrivers and nut drivers.
  • Pro-Tools – Tubing benders.
  • Proto (aka Stanley-Proto–a division of Stanley.) Most Proto tools are made in USA.
  • Ridgid Tools – Pipe wrenches, pipe threaders, and tubing cutters. Note that some Ridgid tools are imported, so be sure to check before you order.
  • Snyder Manufacturing – Ratcheting and non-ratchet screwdrivers. (Made in Salamanca, New York.)
  • St. Croix Forge Family – Horse shoeing tools, nails and other farrier equipment
  • Stiletto Tool Co. – Titanium and stainless steel hammers. (Made in Winton, California.)
  • Vaughan Mfg. (aka Vaughan-Grayvik) – Hammers, pry bars, hatchets, axes, drywall hatchets, etc. Note that some Vaughan tools are imported, so be sure to check before you order.
  • Wilde Tool – A great range of hand tools, including pliers, screwdrivers, scrapers, wrenches and more. (Spoken “Wild-ee.”)
  • Woodman’s Pal – A trail machete/hatchet/pruner.
  • Wright Tool – Wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, and hammers,
  • Xuron Corporation – Shears, pliers and forming tools. (Made in Saco, Maine.)

Sewing and Leatherworking Tools:

Gunsmithing, Reloading, and Bullet Casting Tools:

  • Brownell’s – America’s largest gunsmithing tools supplier. They sell a mix of US-made and imported tools, so be sure to check the country of origin for each item before ordering.
  • Chapman Mfg. Tools – Ratchets, drivers, and adaptors for standard slotted (gunsmithing style), Allen, Bristol, Phillips, and Torx head.
  • Dillon Precision – Reloading tools. Oh, and a great Minigun. 😉
  • Grace USA – Excellent hollow-ground gunsmithing screwdrivers, as well as hammers and pin pinches.
  • Infinite Products – Stainless Steel Solvent Trap 1/2×28 to Oil Filter (3/4×16) Thread Adapters
  • Lee Precision – Reloading and bullet casting tools.
  • Lone Wolf Distributors – Glock armorer tools.
  • Lyman Products – Reloading and bullet casting tools.
  • RCBS – Reloading tools.
  • Squirrel Daddy – AR15 / M16 Lower Receiver Magazine Vise Block. (These are handy to just hold your AR for cleaning, too.)
  • Tapco – The best AR-15 armorer’s wrench. Many of their other products are imported, so check before your order.
  • UTG – AR-15 Sight adjusting tools, and many products. (Check for country of origin.)


Welding Tools:


Clamps and Vises:

  • Anvil – (aka Wolff Industries) Their fly-tying (miniature) vise is American-made. (Made in Indiana.)
  • Armstrong Tools – Some clamps made in USA.
  • Badger Clamp – A variety of clamps. (Made in Michigan.)
  • Bench Crafted – “Build It Yourself” woodworking table vise kits and plans, including a great split-top Roubo bench. They also make great magnetic knife and tool holders.
  • Bench Dog Tools – Clamping assembly squares and hole clamps.
  • Dyna King – Their fly-tying (miniature) vises are American-made. (Made in Cloverdale, California.)
  • Griffin Enterprises – Fly-tying (miniature) vises, all American-made. (Made in Kalispell, Montana.)
  • Pony ClampsMost of their clamps are made in the USA.
  • Wilton – Only some of their vises are still American-made, so check carefully before ordering.
  • Yost Vises – U.S. and imported vises. (Only the vises shown on their “Made in USA” web page are American-made.)


Handheld Electric Power Tools:

Except for Dremel, there are now precious few US-made hand-held AC (power cord) or DC (battery) power tools. We now must look for used tools that are marked “Made in USA.” Even Milwaukee and Porter Cable have shifted their manufacturing to China! I personally use Dewalt tools, which are now mostly made in Mexico. (I refuse to buy tools made in China, unless I have no other choice.) Ironically, I’ve read that Makita (a Japanese conglomerate) now makes more tools in the U.S. than does Dewalt! BTW, I also own some Dremel brand tools, but they now only claim “Made in North America” (rather than “Made in USA”) for their product line. Many of their tools are also now made in Mexico.


Floor and Bench Mount Power Tools:

Note: Pitifully, there are no more mid-size (home shop weight) milling machines made in the USA. The only one that comes close is is the Industrial Hobbies (Charter Oak Automation) brand mill, but the big castings that they start with fro those are imported from Taiwan. It is generally best to look for used American-made machines from quality makers, locally, via Craigslist. (Such as Apex, Jet, Atlas, or Bridgeport.) Ditto for bench grinders, disc sanders, scroll saws, and many other tools. Here are a few American floor and bench mount power tool makers that are still hanging in there:

  • Buffalo Machines, Inc. – Perhaps the last American maker of home workshop drill presses. Both their machines and their documentation still look “Old School”, too! (Made in Lockport, New York.)
  • Clausing – Only their few “Insourced” machines are American-made.
  • Dremel – Makes a Rotary Tool Work Station that turns your Dremel tool into a miniature drill press.
  • Ellis Mfg. – Band saws, band saw blades, floor mount belt grinders, and a CNC drill press.
  • Powermatic – Table saws. (In October of 1999 Powermatic was purchased by WMH, who already owned Jet Tools, and Performax Products.)
  • Ridgid Tools – Best known for their pipe tools, they also make bench-mount (or cart-mount) miter saws, table saws, and abrasive cut-offs
  • Sherline – Miniature lathes and milling machines.
  • Shopsmith – Multipurpose woodworking machines (functions include lathe, table saw, disc sander, boring and routing) for home woodworking. (Some argue that in attempting to all of these tasks, that they do none of them particularly well. I only recommend Shopsmiths if you have very limited floor space in your wood shop.)
  • TAIG Tools – Bench top mini milling machines and lathes. Now with CNC control!


3D Printers

Here is a new technology where America presently has the lead! American companies control more than 90% of the market:

  • 3D Systems – Rock Hill, South Carolina
  • MakerBot – Brooklyn, New York
  • Stratasys – Manufacturers of Objet printers. (Edina, Minnesota)


Pneumatic Power Tools:

  • Bondhus – Various hex (Allen and Torx head) tools, including ball head. (Made in Minnesota.)
  • Campbell Hausfeld – Cast Iron Air Compressors.
  • Proto (aka Stanley-Proto–a division of Stanley.) Most Proto tools are made in USA.
  • Snap-on Tools – A huge variety of tools. They have four factories, all in the U.S. (In Elkmont, Alabama; Algona, Iowa; Elizabethton, Tennessee; and Milwaukee, Wisconsin.) Most Snap-on products are US-made, but they also catalog some others tools that are imported. (So be sure to check.)
  • Texas Pneumatic Tools – Compressors, impact wrenches, grinders, et cetera.
  • St. Louis Pneumatic – Impact wrenches, grinders, drills, and power chisels.


Masonry Tools:


Log Splitters:

  • DR – Gas engine and electric splitters. Unlike a typical gas engine splitter, their electric splitters cannot be heard from more than a short distance away.
  • Ramsplitter – As electric splitters go, these are fast and powerful.


Pouches and Tool Bags:


Work Benches, Tool Chests, Cabinets, Tool Carts, Router Tables, and Saw Horses:

  • Akro-Mils – Very handy plastic hardware storage bins and metal racks, to hold them.
  • American Workbench – Excellent wooden workbenches, shipped unassembled. (Made in Charlestown South Carolina.)
  • Bench Crafted – “Build It Yourself” woodworking table vise kits and plans, including a nice split-top Roubo bench.
  • Bench Dog Tools – Cast iron router tables.
  • Black & Decker – Workmate Portable Workbenches. (Note that most Black & Decker tools are imported.)
  • Edsal – Steel work benches, shelves, pallet racks, and tool carts. Their is a real bargain, and quite versatile.
  • Gerstner – Some of the nicest wooden tool chests made. (Steel tool chests are more practical for most of us.)
  • Hideahorse – Strong, stable folding sawhorses
  • Kennedy Manufacturing – Rolling tool chests, bench top chests, hand-carry chests, modular cabinets, and benches with drawers.
  • Moduline – Aluminum tool cabinets
  • Noden Furniture Design – Makers of the Adjust-A-Bench
  • Task Horse Brackets – Sturdy sawhorses, using standard 2×4 dimensional lumber.
  • U.J. Ramelson Co. – Scribes, carving tools, and checkering tools.
  • Woodpeckers – Router tables, router mounting plates, router fences, measuring tools, layout tools and clamping accessories. Note that they also sell some imported products (under other brand names), so be sure to check the country of origin before ordering. (Their products under their brand name are made in Ohio.)

A Few Odd Ducks

Here are a few others American tool companies with products that are not in the aforementioned categories:

  • MacCoupler – A clever adapter that allows you to re-fill one-pound propane cylinders from 20 to 40 pound tanks.
  • MagEyes – Magnifying lenses with a headband for hands-free detail work. (Made in Texas.)

Closing Notes: Special thanks to Harry J. Epstein Company, a tool retailer that still cares about the country of origin off the tools that they sell.

When you do buy an American-made product, again, please send an e-mail to the maker, with a note of encouragement to let them know that you appreciate their integrity in keeping their production on-shore.

Please let me know via e-mail which companies I’ve missed in the preceding lists, and I will add them before I move this piece to a permanent reference page.