Odds ‘n Sods:

Rick B. recommended: Crop Rotation in the Home Garden

   o o o

I knew that Bobcats were versatile little tractors, but I had no idea that they were this agile. (Thanks to Chester for the link.)

   o o o

Three Important Lessons from a Canadian Border Crossing

   o o o

Update on the big September Mountain House sales: The folks at Safecastle report: ” 27% of the Mountain House canned varieties are now backordered.
 
Mountain House foods now on backorder till October: Pilot Crackers, New Orleans Rice with Shrimp, Mexican Style Rice & Chicken, Uncooked Eggs, Vegetable Stew, Ground Beef, Green Beans, Peas, Corn, Cottage Cheese, Chicken Stew.
 
The good news: Sweet & Sour Pork and Breakfast Skillet are back in stock and shipping out again.”

Here is a summary of the five September sales on Mountain House foods in #10 cans. They are all offering deep discounts and most of them are offering free shipping:





Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 ends on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



My View on Self Defense for Women, by Sheri W.

I wish that all women had some self-defense training.  But, most don’t, even among preppers.  Worse yet, most women I know are too embarrassed to learn anything about fighting.  They don’t know where to learn or maybe don’t want to appear foolish.  And the misinformation out there about how a woman should defend herself is often worse than useless – it’s actually harmful.  Most men teach what works for men and often, those techniques don’t work very well for women.  This article is intended for those women who have little or no experience with self-defense.  I won’t kid you, reading something to learn to defend yourself is not the way to learn.  I hope no woman ever has to defend herself.  But, if your man is down, or you’re on your own, even if you aren’t terrifically effective with these techniques, some of this information could make the difference even if all you do is read it.  I’m a woman and this is what I believe works for women.

So I want to recommend this exercise: sit with your butt on your heels, on the floor about two feet from your opponent, who is sitting the same way.  You should be facing each other.  Put a small cloth, like a bar towel or washcloth on the floor between you.  Here’s the game; you are trying to grab the cloth and quickly roll away from your opponent before he (or she) can reach out and touch you anywhere he can reach.  Neither of you can touch the other unless one of you is holding the cloth.  Your opponent is trying to do the same thing, in which case you’re trying to reach out and touch him before he can roll away with the cloth.  This exercise can really help you in several ways.  It teaches you what your reaction time is and what other people’s reaction time is.  It teaches you to feint – fake a grab that you won’t complete in order to keep your opponent off balance.  And, it teaches you to read your opponent’s body language, and how your opponent “telegraphs” what they’re about to do. 

The reason I recommend that exercise is that most women I’ve known don’t have a lot of confidence in their ability to defend themselves.  And, for good reason – because most women are at a big disadvantage in a fight with a man.  But, most women have equal or better reaction time compared to most men.  Even if a male opponent has studied martial arts, women often can win at this exercise.  So, it’s a confidence builder for women in an area they can excel.  And, when your life might be on the line, you need to know what your assets are, what you can do with a reasonable hope of success.  And what your opponent can do.  You can do the exercise with men, other women or kids.

The sad truth is that a woman’s chances in a fight with a man aren’t good.  For this reason, a woman has about seven seconds to take a guy out in a fight before the odds for your success start to decrease.  For that first seven seconds, your opponent probably doesn’t see you as a lethal threat and you really do have a big advantage.  He probably thinks you won’t be a big obstacle.  You have to be lethal in your seven second window of opportunity.  That fact narrows down your range of targets considerably.  There just aren’t that many targets on a male opponent that will kill or disable him in a short time frame.  After that seven seconds, you can still win, it’s just harder. 

Don’t try to look tough.  In fact, try to look scared and totally useless.  By trying to look tough, you’re just advertising to the guy that you intend to fight back.

Rule One: The best weapon is never your body.  Nearly anything you can grab or hold is less likely to break and therefore a better weapon than your fist is.  Anything hard or sharp that you can get a good grip on is a weapon.  If you have a choice between a four inch knife and a ten inch knife, go for the shorter knife – it’s harder for your opponent to get away from you.  Never throw a weapon.  Keep your weapon and keep it in your control at all costs.  There are nearly always weapons around.  If you can get to a knife, slash at your opponent’s hands, short circular slashes that can reach both of the guy’s hands.  By circular slashes, I mean out and back towards your body, so that you’re set up for another slash.  Don’t try to get past his arms for a body stab.  Instead shred his hands.  Always stay aware of both of his hands.  Men are smart and competent, so if you are only paying attention to one hand, you can bet his other hand is about to take your knife away.

Take a few minutes to look around any room you’re in and think about what could be used as a weapon and how it could be used to bludgeon your opponent’s “soft” targets (like his nose) or to cut someone.  Anything you can reach that is not too light or too heavy can be used in one of those ways.   Be aware your opponent will try to get any weapon away from you.  As I mention later in talking about multiple strikes, if you don’t meet his move to disarm you with additional strikes, he probably will disarm you.

Rule Two: Forget any kind of typical karate punch.  You’ll break your wrist.  The bones in your hand and wrist are more fragile than almost anything you could hit.  And aside from a strike to someone’s nose or throat, that type of blow won’t incapacitate your opponent.

The difference between a male’s upper body strength and a woman’s is huge.  You can pound sand for a couple of years to work up to karate-style punching, if you want to.  But you have better weapons available: your knee, foot, elbow, side of fist, back of fist, head, teeth.  Those are your weapons if you can’t get a better one.   Having said that, it’s sensible to do 20 pushups a day (working up to it).  That little bit of muscle might save your life and will keep your tits from sagging as an additional bonus.

Karate is a power style and it suits men perfectly.  I don’t think it works for women.  Oh, it can work!  But it still plays to men’s strengths.  Wrestling is the.same deal.  If an assailant tried to wrestle with me, I’d try to bite his nose off.  Karate and wrestling are biased in favor of power and size.  If you want to take a martial art, try jiu jitsu (which uses leverage instead of power) or kickboxing – even boxing will teach you to duck and be light on your feet although it won’t teach you how to successfully hit someone.  I’m sure there are women martial artists who will disagree with me on this issue.  But, in a fight between a reasonably fit guy with no martial arts training and a woman with a black belt in karate, my money would go on the guy.  I wasted years on karate before coming to that conclusion.  And it wasn’t a conclusion I was happy to reach.

I used to think that martial arts was mostly a matter of learning to take a beating, ignore the pain and keep going.  There’s a weird humor in that, and it’s also true.  In a real fight, adrenaline will usually keep you from feeling the damage, for awhile.  Some people are really pain sensitive.  Other people are really afraid of pain and that’s a much, much bigger problem.  But pain is always preferable to death or permanent damage.  Pain is temporary.  Don’t let the prospect of pain wipe you out.  In a sense, martial arts teaches you that pain isn’t the end of the world.  Like hunger, if you ignore pain, it fades away.  I’ve known people who were afraid of hunger as if it was a big, scary thing.  Hundreds of thousands of years have honed humans to function perfectly in spite of pain or hunger.  We’re built to do that and succeed.  Even if someone shoots you, you can still function.

Get out of the mindset that you’ll lose the fight.  Your biggest limitations are mental.  You can do a lot more than you think you can.  You won’t lose if you’re vicious and sneaky enough.  It takes 12 pounds of pressure to break an elbow – including the elbow of a six foot four inch tall, two hundred and fifty pound guy.  About four pounds of pressure will break his nose.  In either case you just have to know your targets.  Speed and accuracy are more important than power. 

In a true do-or-die fight, go for gouging out eyes, nose strikes or bites, windpipe hits (below the adam’s apple), breaking knees or elbows.  Bite fingers off – don’t just bite them, bite them off.  If you want to win, you have to be brutal.

I’ve been told by guys who should know what they’re talking about, that kicking or kneeing a guy in the balls creates such a adrenaline surge that a guy doesn’t always become incapacitated for several minutes afterwards – and for those few minutes you have an enraged, adrenaline-overloaded opponent to deal with.  I mention this for what it’s worth.  That doesn’t mean I wouldn’t go for a guy’s genitals as a target of opportunity.  I just wouldn’t put all my faith in it.  Giving the impression that you’re terrorized will give you an addition edge.  Terror is incapacitating.  If you allow terror to rule you, the other guy’s job is already done for him.  You handed him your life on a platter.  But you can give the impression you are terrorized and it will lull your opponent into not expecting much retaliation.  Don’t rush him, let him come to you, then move in at the last second when he’s in arm’s reach.  Read his body language for how he’s going to attack or grab you.  What I’m trying to communicate is that, for a woman, there are a small number of targets and  a small number of ways of attacking those targets.  This should simplify your decisions.  Hence the next “rule.”

Rule Three: You need to work continual strikes.  Do not kick someone and then back off to see if the guy is going to stop or run away.  It’ll never work.  Use continuous strikes at your attacker – nose, knee, eyes, throat, temple, elbow, genitals and whatever else you can strike at.  The only exception to this rule is if you can either run away or get to a better weapon.  In that case, run or break away and/or go for the weapon.

Most people, in a fight, will try to stay back from their opponent.  That doesn’t usually work for a woman, kid or smaller guy.  When you back away, you’re playing to your opponent’s strengths – his longer reach.  It’s not instinctive, but a smaller fighter needs to get inside the reach of the bigger guy.  That way the bigger guys blows can’t deliver with full power and you can actually reach your targets.  The danger is being close enough to get into a grapple with someone who weighs a lot more than you.  But any distance where you can reach your target is fine.  You don’t want your opponent to be at the end of your reach, but within your reach. The big point here is that backing away isn’t in your best interests.  Your fear tells you to back off.  Ignore that fear.  You have to be close enough to hit the guy.

You cannot use brutal techniques (with the possible exception of breaking an opponent’s knee or elbow) on some drunk guy who grabs your ass or a school-yard bully.  If you do, you’ll go to jail for a very long time.  Brutal techniques are for situations that are deadly to you. [JWR Adds: Any strikes at the neck or head are considered lethal force attacks, for good reason. Do not use them unless you are in a truly life threatening situation where you are legally justified to use lethal force.]

If someone grabs you (including chokes), always break the hold towards the guys thumb.  The thumb is the weak part of any hold.  If someone grabs you by the wrist or arm: swing or twist and pull your arm in a direction that puts force against the guy’s thumb, bending it towards his wrist.  Be fast.  If you can get the guy’s arm straight while you’re trying to break the hold, bring up your other hand and use the heel of that hand to smash into the back of the guys elbow or his nose.  If he pulls his head back, go for his knee or groin.  And continuously go for any other target of opportunity.  Back of neck, temple, ear, etc.  Any move you make will cause your opponent to change his position to protect what he thinks you mean to attack, and his motion, in turn, will bring a different target into reach.  If you try to pull out of his grasp, he’ll brace his knees beautifully for you, so you can break them.

If someone is choking you from the front reach up and try to grab the guys thumbs  and pry them away. Thumbs move in more or less three directions with some kind of mobility, but not in the fourth direction, directly back towards his wrist.  That’s the direction you use to pry his thumbs away from whatever they have a grip on.  If you can get your fingers around his thumb you can break the choke by twisting the thumbs back fairly easily.  You can also try to bring both your forearms up between his forearms and explosively push your arms out against his arms – but this probably won’t work for an untrained woman against a powerful man.  Better to gouge his eyes or strike his throat with the side or back of your fist or your elbow.  If you can reach his eyes, go for them – that’ll almost always break his choke hold.  Or grab his private parts in your fist and twist hard.  The guy will let go of your throat.

Sometimes trying to pry out of someone’s grip isn’t using your best resources.  Better to break his knee, which is usually conveniently close (more on this later).  The great thing about knee attacks is that even if you don’t strike accurately enough to break it the guy will probably be limping and you can outrun him and you can almost always reach his knees with some kind of kick.  If someone has you from behind, usually your hands and feet (and possibly your elbows) are free.  Head butting (smashing back) into the guys nose is a great technique, but often the guy is so much taller that you can’t reach his nose with the back of your head.  Same deal for using your forehead to bash someone’s nose.  You can often reach back with your hands and grab, squeeze, wrench or tear the guy’s groin.  You can drop all your weight completely, which will sometimes get you free (to roll fast and get up).  Although women have much less upper body strength than men, a woman’s leg strength is almost as great as a man’s leg strength.  If you have shoes on, you can rake the guys shin with your heel, smash his foot (aim for the top of the arch) or better yet, kick back with one or both feet, repeatedly, to try to hit the front of his knees with the heels of your feet.  Most guys, holding you from behind, if you’re trying to hit his knees with your heels, will bend forward (to try to distance his knees from your feet) – this brings his head conveniently close so now you can smash the back of your head into his nose.  And, while you’re doing this, be thinking about a weapon you can grab if you get free.  Also, scream your rage loudly.  Get in touch with your inner berserker.  Sometimes rage and relentlessness are more important that power.  If you can’t reach his nose with the back of your head, hit anything on his face – except his teeth.  Other than teeth, every single part of his face is more susceptible to damage than the back of your head, or your elbow or the back or side of your fist, for that matter.  If you do all this, fast enough and continuously enough, you probably will get loose, at least briefly.

Before we get off the topic of an assailant grabbing you.  I just want to mention the tactic of faking blows (feints) to set up your opponent for a different blow.  We all telegraph our attacks, more or less, and you can use this to set someone up.  As I mentioned earlier, if someone has hold of you by the arm or wrist and you tense as if you’re about to break or wrench away, he’ll instantly brace for it.  That brace sets him up perfectly to break his knee – he’s got the knee all nice and braced for you.  Braced, it takes more time for him to get his knee out of the way or turn his knee to direct your blow at a less vulnerable part of him.  Every kind of attack sets up your opponent for another attack.  Every time your opponent moves or braces, he’s setting himself up for a different strike.  You need to think about that a little.  Every time you move, he’ll brace, move or try to compensate.  Every attack sets your opponent up for the next attack.  The point in feinting is that it helps avoid telegraphing your real attack. 

For any of the kicks, imagine the target is about six inches past where it actually is.  Really believe that – that you’re trying to strike something behind the true target.  Don’t worry too much about power because trying to put all your power into it will slow you down and make pulling your foot back after the strike harder, plus you’ll telegraph the coming strike to your opponent a lot more.  Aim for a point behind your target and pull back instantly after striking, all in one motion.  That’s how you want your kicks to work.

There are three basic kinds of kicks.  Front kicks, side-kicks and back kicks.  Front kicks involve hitting with the ball of your foot at something in front of you (unless you have hard shoes on, in which case use any part of your foot).  Keep your toes bent up if you’re barefoot – you’ll strike with the ball of your feet.  Think about running in place, how your foot comes down and hits the ground and recoils back to your torso.  Like running, your toes aren’t pointed towards the ground as your foot comes down, they’re angled up, out of the way, so that you’ll hit the ground with the bottom of your foot. Now try to translate that kind of motion except instead of hitting the ground you’re hitting a target.  Hit and pull back like a spring.  If you have heavy shoes on, you can kick the way a guy kicks a football without hurting your toes.  Any attacker, if you try to kick anything above his knee or leave your leg or foot out where he can grab it, will grab your foot and lift it (keeping hold of it), putting you down on the ground and completely in his control.  You need to pull it back in to prevent that from happening and also to support yourself for your next strike.

Side-kicks involve hitting with the outside edge of your foot at something sideways to you.  Side-kicks are both powerful and fast.  I wouldn’t hesitate to side-kick to the front by turning slightly while I’m kicking. It’s a stronger blow that front kicks and faster pulling back.  Watch a martial arts movie to see some side-kicks, but ignore the fancy high strikes.  Nothing above the knee.  Imagine you’re running up to a boulder, then raising your foot to push off the boulder and reverse your running direction – and since you’re moving fast you’re pulling that leg back and down fast to hit the ground and continue running.  That’s not a perfect analogy, but for someone who has never tried this, it’s better than nothing. 
Back kicks usually mean using your heel or back edge of your heel as a weapon to hit something behind you.  Again, don’t worry about power,  worry about speed, accuracy, not telegraphing the motion and getting your foot back under you fast.
Elbow strikes mean using your elbow as a weapon.  Practically any place you can hit is a good target.  But, preferentially, throats, or noses, solar plexus, ribs, kidneys, anywhere on the face or throat is less ideal but good targets. 

As I mentioned before, if you need to use your hands, use the bottom or the back of your closed fist or the heel of your hand rather than your knuckles.  The reason is that these blows don’t compress your wrist as much.  By the bottom of your fist, I mean the area on the same side as your little finger – hammer-wise, the way you would pound on a table.  Back of  your fist is similar to ‘backhanding’ your opponent, except with your fingers closed in a fist.

A lot of women have long fingernails.  Another reason for using the bottom or back of your fist is that these blows can be used without a really tight fist so they will work even if you have long nails.  If you have any nails, a normal karate or boxing-style fist strike (like you see in the movies) will compress your nails into your palms.  But, back of fist or bottom of fist strikes can be done  with a loosely made fist, just fine.  Regardless, any kind of fist is your very last choice as a weapon.  And if you do have to use fists, put your heart into it.  Targets are nose, throat, temples but hit anything you can reach if you have no other option.  Don’t pound on a guy’s chest or upper arms, they’re useless as targets.  Worse than useless.

Striking with the heel of your hand is very effective for nose strikes.  The area around someone’s nose and upper lip has more nerve endings than (almost) any other place on their body.  A hit to someone’s nose is one of the most painful blows you can give someone.  It makes your targets eyes water copiously, so your assailant can’t see too well.  It bleeds a bunch.  The biggest danger in this strike is that your miss the nose and hit your opponent’s teeth.  His teeth will really mess up your hand.  A lot of people think you can drive someone’s nasal bones up into their brain, killing them, with this kind of blow.  I’ve been told it’s an urban legend. The heel of your hand is also effective against the back of someone’s elbow.  Use a hard sharp blow at the exact back of the elbow, pushing the elbow in the direction it doesn’t bend while holding the guys wrist or forearm with your other hand.  If you don’t have your other hand on his wrist, but he’s holding you, that works too.  It has to be fast because your opponent only has to slightly turn his elbow so that the elbow can bend with the blow, if he sees it coming.  But even if he turns his elbow, it’ll hurt. 

Another way to break an elbow, if the guy isn’t too much taller than you, is to step under his arm (turning so your back is to him) and bring his arm down on your shoulder so that his elbow is just ahead of your shoulder, pull it down hard to break his elbow.  If the guy’s too tall, you can’t get the leverage you need to break his elbow this way – your shoulder needs to be almost as high as his. 

As an example of continuous strikes: Let’s say the guy throws a punch at you.  You quickly bring up your forearm to block his punch, then slide your arm and grab his wrist and start to swing under his raised arm.  As you swing into the turn, you build momentum to swing your other elbow around into his solar plexus (just below the breast bone) which brings his head down, bending him over a little and that puts you and him in position to swing you fist up for a back fist strike to his nose.  Which swings his upper torso back and away so he’s set up for you to bring his upper arm down on your shoulder to break his elbow (his elbow is facing down).  See what I mean about each strike, even if it doesn’t land, setting him up for your next strike?

A few words about blocking: the most common way to block an incoming blow is to use your forearm against his forearm.  It’s a pretty decent move but only slightly diffuses the direction and force of his blow, so you also need to be moving to the side so his target (you) isn’t where it was.  

To gouge someone’s eyes: punch your thumbs into the very inside corners of your attackers eyes (the side where his tear ducts are). Once your thumb is in behind the eyeball, bend your thumbs in and push towards the outside corners of his eyes and then back out.  You’re reaching in behind his eyeballs and then pushing them out in one smooth move.
If you’re down on the ground, on your back, and your opponent is standing anywhere near your feet, you can hook one foot behind his ankle and with the bottom of your other foot, push hard on the front of his shin, just below his knee.  That will put your opponent on their butt if you do it fast enough and it doesn’t even take much strength.  Roll fast and get a foot under you to get up and away fast.  The reason you always roll to your feet is that it’s faster than any other way to get to your feet.  It uses your momentum to help you get up.  You have to practice.

The classic way to fall when you go down onto your back, is with your arms out from your body about thirty degrees, slap your forearm and hand on the ground hard, just as your back hits but before your head hits.  That slap will defuse the force of the fall to prevent your head from hitting.  Don’t get your elbow under you, keep your arm out nearly straight at that 30 degree angle out from your torso.

Often a man will grab a woman by her hair to try to control her.  If a man has a handful of your hair, use your hand to try to press his fist against your head while using your other hand or feet to attack him.  If you can keep his fist against your head, it keeps his hold on your hair from hurting you.  If you can’t do that, attack with everything you have and ignore the pain. 

You can practice kicks on a tree trunk or stacked bales of hay, if you don’t have a heavy punching bag.  Everything else, you can practice with a brother, boyfriend or friend, except use soft slaps or taps instead of blows – practice ducking, blocking blows and feinting (faking moves).  Practice with your kids or women friends.  This alone won’t make you a good fighter but it’s a lot better than nothing and might save your life or your family.



Two Letters Re: Preserving a Digital Library

James,
I work for a large, three-letter computer manufacturer with a penchant for Blue.

Joe Ax’s comments about the problems with maintaining a digital library are right on the money. When I worked in our Storage Division (hard disks, tapes, etc.), this issue came up during a talk on medical systems’ storage needs. There is a requirement for medical records to be maintained 100 years, and yet no computer data storage system has been designed to do this.

So what is the ‘solution’? 

It seems that doctor’s offices are cajoled/required/encouraged to upgrade their office systems on average of about every five years. In so doing, all of their old records are transferred to the new system. This side-steps the problem without actually solving it.

While I am a big fan of digital libraries, I think that every book/document which is  absolutely essential to a prepper be ‘backed up’ by keeping a print copy on high quality  paper. At the present time, this is the most practical solution I am aware of.

Best Regards, – Bear

Jim,
As the author of the original article I wanted to wait for a while to try and address several of the issues (all good points) raised, and clarify why I made the various choices I did in my suggestions.

Some responses seem to have missed my main thrust which was bringing this concept in at the best matrix between cost, accessibility, usability, longevity, and availability of surplus gear. Obviously this type of matrix has some degree of subjectivity.

The reason I chose XP was because of the recommendation I made for purchasing older, obsolete laptops which probably will not be capable of running Windows 7 or Vista. This met my criteria for cost, usability, and availability. As one response noted correctly, the original activation can be done offline using a telephone. Copies of XP that are not pirated can still be purchased online cheaply. Also may of the surplus laptops may already come with an activation sticker (license key) still attached which obviates the need to even purchase a copy. Activation should be done ahead of time. In a grid down or disaster situation there are a variety of (relatively) easy methods to bypass the activation should the laptop decide it needs to be reactivated.

At least one response mentioned the lack of updates and age of XP as an issue. This is the primary reason I stressed to never connect these laptops to any network. It didn’t have anything to do with backdoors or NSA access, it is purely to remove issues related to having the information on your digital library laptop leaked out to internet and remove the need to frequently update and patch the systems. The second simplest system to secure is one that is never connected to another system. The simplest system to secure is one that doesn’t exist. (Yes, that’s rather zen-ish but I like it. =)

Another letter addressed the changes in technology making backup media obsolete, and failure rates. I believe this response failed to read my entire article. This is why I stressed rebuilding the backup media every 24 to 36 months. It allows reorganization of your digital library as well as alleviates the issue of age related data corruption. Also keeping as many spares as practical, and supplies of backup media.

Several users mentioned Linux. While Linux is my personal preferred operating system, I have spent a certain amount of time doing end user support, development, and security for Linux/Unix and Windows operating systems and I would put a 95% chance that there isn’t a single person on this forum who has not used Windows, and most will have used (or are still using) XP.

I would be surprised if more than 10% even have heard of Linux. Having taught a number of classes involving both Windows and Linux over the years, I will tell you there is a significant learning curve between the two environments, not the least being conceptual rather than technical. And for the Apple fan-boys out there, I’m lumping MAC OS X in with Linux at the conceptual level — and yes, I know it is a BSD derivative. =)

Another response mentioned Calibre for a digital library organizer. This is an excellent program, and I do use it. If you are careful to tag (add index keywords to documents) that you import, it makes an excellent resource tool for organizing documents. However as a different respondent mentioned, I also primarily rely on a simple folder structure. This allows me to also include other document types (blueprints, schematics, etc.) in related folders. Also don’t be afraid to have multiple copies of the same document. For example I have copies of documents relating to making charcoal in folders under ‘Consumables/Smithing’, ‘Food/Smoking’, ‘Fuel/Wood’, and several other locations.

All of this aside, ask 10 geeks how to preserve a digital library and you’ll get at least 20 answers. As presented mine is only one of many approaches that are all workable, cost effective, and can be implemented by someone without a ton of technical expertise.

Go with God, – H335



Pantry Paratus Photo Contest Continues

A reminder:

Pantry Paratus is excited to celebrate our second year on as an e-store.  We are looking to expand our digital marketing appeal with real pictures; so in order to do that we are hosting our first annual 2013 photo contest to celebrate all the harvest of this season’s bounty.  All the official rules are here, but the basics are these:
-all photos must be original work and submitted to photocontest@pantryparatus.com between Friday, September 6th and Friday, September 20th.
-there are two categories: “Canning” and “Food Preservation.”  The first one is easy to define, but the second one can be anything from saving seeds to rendering lard to making jerky–surprise us!
-We have one grand prize winner ($200 of selected merchandise) and one First place winner ($150 of selected merchandise), one second place winner ($100 of selected merchandise) and one third place winner ($50 of selected merchandise) for each category.  There will be seven big winners in all!
-Since people tend to be private about their food supply, people need only supply their name (any name will do really) and a valid email address so if they win we can contact them–or else the contest is pointless, right?
-one entry per person, per email, per category  (e.g. John Smith can submit one (1) entry for “Canning” and one (1) entry for “Food Preservation” from johnsmith@emailaddress.com).



Economics and Investing:

Gold Is Not A Safe Haven? Tell That To People In Indonesia

U.S. on ‘unsustainable’ budget course: CBO

Fed Says: No Taper. [JWR’s Comment: At this point, tapering from the artificial liquidity of “QE To Infinity” would spike interest rates, send the bond market into a tailspin, cause a derivatives tremor (if not a full tsunami), and crash the real estate market. Ben Bernanke has firmly backed himself into a corner. Ben will wean himself of QE about as quickly as your local crackhead will wean himself from his addiction.]

Don’t say you weren’t warned: Mulligan Mint Files For [Chapter 11] Bankruptcy

Items from The Economatrix:

Holiday-Shopping Season Forecast To Be Worst Since 2009

August Inflation Rises 0.1%, Less Than Expected Driven By Lower Utility Prices

Reality Is Breathing Down Bernanke’s Neck



Odds ‘n Sods:

Ay, ay, ay Acapulco: Desperate thousands try to escape cut-off Acapulco

   o o o

Reader James W. suggested this: How to Meet Mutual Assistance Group Members

   o o o

Reader Pierre M. sent: The NSA’s secret org chart. Marc presents a fine conceptual chart, but of course what it lacks is the corresponding physical structure, showing the Field Stations around the globe and the relationship between the NSA and its tasked military counterparts such as the Air Force Security Command (AFSC), the Naval Security Group (NSG), and the U.S. Army’s Intelligence and Security Command (INSCOM.)

   o o o

Food for thought: Biblical Prophecies of the Middle East Poster.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“There was another thing that the camels carried, and that was various forms of currency. The currency problem was an important one. Through that admirable institution, the Chinese Post Office, I had been able to transfer the bulk of our capital from Peking to points west by simply paying in a cheque at the Peking branch and then drawing the dollars at Lanchow and Sining. But the Mexican silver dollar which they use in China is a big coin, and the country through which we were to pass had a lawless reputation; a suitcase heavy with silver could not be relied upon to remain indefinitely an asset and might indeed prove a major liability. So we carried the minimum of coin– 600 or 700 dollars secreted in different places among our gear. With the remainder of our capital– rather more than a thousand dollars– I had bought in Lanchow a 12 oz. bar of gold which, besides being easily concealed, had the advantage of being negotiable anywhere where a file and a pair of scales were available. For the remoter Mongol communities, who often have no use for gold or silver, we took with us eight bricks of tea and a good deal of cheap coloured cloth, one or the other of which is always legal tender.” – Peter Fleming, News from Tartary (a book about an overland journey from Peking to Kashmir in 1935.)



Notes from JWR:

I’ve just sent the completed manuscript of my nonfiction book “Tools For Survival” to Penguin Books for editing. This is the first time that I’ve written a book with accompanying photographs. (Skillfully created by my #2 Son.) The Foreword was written by our Backcountry Editor, Mat Stein. The book should be released in June of 2014. Now I can jump back into writing my novel “Liberators,” for E.P. Dutton. That manuscript–part of the “Patriots” series–is due in March, and the book should be released in October of 2014. (Deo volente.)

Today is Chilean Independence Day. On this day in 1810, Chile declared independence from Spain.

Today we present another entry for Round 48 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) Two BirkSun.com photovoltaic backpacks (one Level, and one Atlas, both black), with a combined value of $275, H.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and I.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 22 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $200 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Round 48 ends on September 30th so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Prioritized Prepping, by Z.T.

I, like so many people across the country, can’t walk out of my local sporting goods store without buying the limit of ammunition. Now, before you judge me, realize that most places limit you to small boxes of ammunition, and usually one two per caliber. Is it being prudent or just being obsessed? While the firearm and ammo situation is very much a media-hyped thing,  I have even talked about things you must buy every time you are out, like my article on Things Commonly Overlooked.  But what about those items that you pick up, look at the price tag, but pass on it saying “maybe next time.”

In conversations with my other prepping type friends, it would appear that ammunition and firearms are the centerpiece of all of our preparations. While all of us love to shoot and none of us want to cut a good day of shooting short because it will take us weeks to resupply. the truth of the matter is that we are making firearms and ammunition the priority, both in the money and the peace of mind spent to assure our continuation in a world gone bad. But does it really do either of those?

After a few comments from my better half, I got to thinking about how much money I have sunk into my firearms and ammunition in the last year. I have bought at least a half dozen guns. I also make it to my local Academy at least once per pay period and have never walked out without buying the 2 box limit of 9mm or .45, or the limit in .223/.22. Which means the cheapest possible trip in and out is approximately $45. Commonly I buy an additional box of .38 special or .357, which is at least an additional $25. So, let’s say I do that once a pay period or twice a month. That’s over $1000 a year in ammunition. Again, that’s a very conservative estimate. Truth be told, i don’t shoot that much and my stock had grown such that I have…well…more than I need.

It was after the crisis in Syria became front page news that I started thinking: What could I have bought instead of all this ammo. More importantly, what things could I possibly need in a split second that guns and ammo couldn’t get me. The first thing that I thought of was the one thing that was all over the news. There were scenes of those killed by gas. There were scenes of those luckily to only be maimed by it, usually losing their eyesight. I don’t know about you, but that’s one sense I’d rather not do without. What did these people not have  that might have saved them? Gas masks.

All of the ammunition in the world couldn’t help those people exposed. There was nowhere to run. Once within that poison cloud, you couldn’t simply run or hide from it. You certainly couldn’t fight out of it or buy/trade your way to safety. But, had those people had access to gas masks, what then? Chances are, they slip them on and escape to live another day. So, while I was on the treadmill at the gym, watching this horror, I got on Amazon to see what gas masks were selling for. In the back of my mind, I assumed that it was just another piece of equipment that I knew I might one day need, would love to buy it for piece of mind, but just couldn’t afford to buy it. I’m like everyone else. I am middle class, and while I do believe in being prepared, the pragmatic part of me sets limitations.

What did I find? Amazon has Russian/Israeli/etc military surplus gas masks….to the tune of about $40 shipped to your door.

Now, I didn’t forget about the kids. After all, life really isn’t worth living if I can’t get my whole family. So, still on Amazon, I looked for the same thing in kids sizes. To my surprise, they were also extremely affordable. I was able to buy 3 kids size military surplus masks for under $40 shipped. Not bad, eh?

So, that got me thinking….we spend all this time talking about things we may need, but can’t “justify” spending the money on…even though we nickel-and-dime ourselves away prepping on other things. And while I did think of some things.

  • At home water cistern/storage. I had been talking about doing this for a long time, specifically to my dad. See, they live on top of a mountain that’s actually above the local water tank. So, there is a booster pump at the bottom of the hill to provide water pressure. It goes out constantly. Well, he has chickens. And dogs. And tons of everything. Not to mention the need for water for himself. He elected to buy an off the shelf version that caught rainwater running off of his shop. I believe it’s a 450 gallon unit and it filled up with the first rain. You can get pretty ingenuity with yours and do it fairly cheap (under $150) and go as far as you want to make it work for you. For example, putting it on stilts, adding a 2 way valve to your house water supply, and you can now use your house water system. 
  • Tyvek suits are something that are relatively cheap and very useful to have ready. Will they protect you against many nasty chemical weapons? Will it stop radiation? No. But, it will do an admirable job against most chemical weapons and biological ones. They are water proof. They are easy to find, easy to put on, and cheap. 
  • “Noah’s Ark” seed assortments. Tons of places sell heirloom seed assortments. They are around $80-to-$100 and will come with a large variety and assortment of herbs and vegetables. If you are like me and my wife, you normally buy your seeds annually from a catalog. What if instead, you bought one of these a year. And the next year, you planted your old one when you received your new one? This would ensure maximum freshness. While I understand that most people don’t have that kind of room and couldn’t use a whole set, you can at least use some of them. This way you can save yourself a little money on groceries, but most importantly, get into the practice of growing your own and learning all the little pitfalls.
  • Indoor plant growing station. Even if you live in an apartment you can buy one. Sorry, I couldn’t think of a better name for it. The stands and the correct lights (you can’t just use standard bulbs) do cost a good amount of money, usually around $100. Maybe that’s one of the reasons that I never bought one to begin with. Plus, Alabama has such a temperate climate that starting your own seedlings isn’t usually necessary. This year, however, we experienced a deluge of rain that kept me from planting. Plus, a friend was moving out of town and was selling his setup. So, I bought it cheap. With a cheap bag of soil, I was able to easily grow 30 tomato plants in a 48″ long tray until they were big enough to separate and grow in their own pots. So, it cost about $125 counting the lights and stand, the soil, cups, and seeds. What would 30 half grown tomato cost you at Lowe’s? There you go. 
  • A dirt bike. A used dirt bike can be found easily and cheaply around here. Especially an older one that is carbureted and has a non-electronic ignition. Why would you want such a thing? Well, in the case of an EMP, it would be one of the few rides left around town that ran. You couldn’t put a price on being able to ride to and fro when the lights went out. Additionally, if you didn’t get out ahead of everyone in another catastrophic event.. For example, let’s say that you were in gridlock traffic and you just KNEW something really bad was about to happen. You could unload your little dirt bike off the back of your truck and take off. Paved roads, dirt roads, through the trees, doesn’t matter. You could ride almost anywhere. Sure, it would cost you $1,000 up front. But, like we were talking about earlier, I spent that in ammo this year. This is a much more useful tool.

Again, these are but a few things that I thought of in a short thinking session. I hope that I will hear from some of you to point out others. The point is, you simply can’t let a once time price stop you from buying semi-affordable things. Especially when you are dedicated to spending the money anyway. There are certainly things that I can’t afford. But, I find myself spending money on things I can afford while ignoring things I could afford. So, put things in a price-perspective. Do you need another assault rifle? Another case of MREs? Maybe. Maybe not. But think of all the other things you could do with $1,500 that could buy you precious minutes or hours.



Letter Re: Prepping for Winter

Hi!
Thanks for all you do.  In my quest to do one thing to prepare for the coming uncertainties each day, I thought I would take a moment to remind you and all readers that this coming weekend is the Equinox, the time that I update my car kit to prepare for the coming winter.  Besides my day to day car kit, I’ll add extra warm coats, hats, gloves, boots and scarves to the trunk.  Additionally, a few ponchos and garbage bags.  Here in one of the nanny states in the northeast US, there aren’t many places I go that will require much more than that.

I also think it it’s a good time to remind all that a half tank of gas should be considered an empty tank.

All the best, – Project Manager X.



Letter Re: Advice on Firearms Caching

James,
In “Letter Re: Advice on Firearms Caching”, Mark J. wrote “Should I simply use a Hot Hands hand warmer inside the mylar bag and then another one inside the PVC tube? I should not have to worry about moisture if it is vacuum sealed? right? “

Well, no–regardless of the chemicals in the heater. Putting any temporary heat source in a sealed container may actually cause corrosion or water damage that wouldn’t have happened before.

This is why:
Heating air does not remove moisture from a confined environment; it simply increases the air’s ability to absorb moisture from other objects in that environment. That sounds exactly like what we want–except, this only lasts as long as the air stays warm. If the warm, moisture-laden air isn’t moved out of the environment, when that air cools back down it will no longer be able to hold the extra moisture, and the moisture it was holding will condense back out of the air–probably as droplets on the surfaces within the container. The galvanic action that causes corrosion is especially strong on the edges of formed water droplets, and is often why we see pitting of metal surfaces.

When using heat to remove moisture, either the heat must stay on, or the moisture-laden air should be able to circulate away from the item(s) being protected before the air can cool. Folks often think of the warming dehumidifiers used in gun safes–these work for two reasons: much of the warm, moisture-laden air is circulated out every time the door is opened, and when the door stays closed, the heater keeps the environment constantly warm.

These principles are true for any sealed environment, whether its a PVC tube or a CONEX shipping container.

Thanks, – Britt (A Mechanical Engineer with experience in the HVAC industry)



Economics and Investing:

Investment Banker Alpert: ‘Massive Deflationary Forces’ Lurks

Money Versus Currency – Australian Comedian Michael Connell’s View

25 Fast Facts About The Federal Reserve

Reader “Subman762” wrote to warn: “There have been some fake Chinese silver plated copies of Northwest Territorial Mint’s Stagecoach silver bar circulating on eBay. The corner radii are a little off and the fakes come in plastic holders that open,while the genuine ones are sealed. I was unfortunate enough to buy some of them and they are very convincing. A scratch test quickly revealed their plated nature and the acid test produced mixed results, due to some silver being present. I saw your link to NWTM’s web site and wanted to recommend buying directly from Northwest Territorial Mint and not via eBay.”

Items from The Economatrix:

Summers Steps Out Of Fed Race

Industrial Production Misses For 5th Month In A Row

They Denied That We Were In A Depression In 1933 And They Are Doing It Again In 2013