Notes from JWR:

November 26th is the birthday of both gun inventor Eugene Reising (born 1884, died February 21, 1967) and the late Barton Biggs (born, 1932, died July 14, 2012.) Biggs was a money manager known for his pro-preparedness stance.

Today we present another entry for Round 49 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $8,500+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225, and I.) VPN tunnel, DigitalSafe and private e-mail annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $265.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 23 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $210 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., F.) A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises , and G.) A Nesco / American Harvest Gardenmaster Dehydrator with an extra set of trays, and the book The Dehydrator Bible, from Mayflower Trading. (A $210 value.)

Round 49 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



We, Who are Left Behind, by M.D.L.

I’ve seen many articles and entries on how to deal with various forms of property, power and safety issues in a TEOTWAWKI situation, as well as the proper means of dealing with disease and the disposal of bodies. But I have seen precious little on the psychology of being the survivor of those losses.  The horrible events in the Philippines have led me to address this.

Let me state here and now that I do not have the type of education that would make me “qualified” to address this.  Just experience.  I must also state that I have never lost “everything” in the conventional sense of the word; as most people equate that to a house, a car etc.

Over the course of my life though I grew up poor I had a home and on most nights, food.  As an adult I have all of the “things” I feel are necessary for a decent lifestyle.  But those things are just things, and transient by their nature.  I didn’t know what true happiness was until I became a father.  That was when I learned what was truly important.  Life was good.

I had seven years of true happiness before I learned what it meant to lose “everything”.  One month after his birthday, my only child (at the time) suddenly died.  One minute he was fine, the next I was performing CPR and praying with all I had to pray with that The Almighty take me in exchange.  My prayers went unanswered and my efforts failed.  My seven-year-old child died in my arms.

My world ended that night.  My life… My reason for being… Gone in an instant.  My late night promises to him when he woke up afraid… that while I lived no harm would come to him, were broken.  I failed in every sense of the word.

In the months to follow I found that food was irrelevant, physical pain had no effect on me, people could come and go through my home unnoticed.  My wife, my wonderful and patient wife, could do nothing to break me out of my self-imposed prison.  A jail to which I was sentenced by the judge and jury in my soul where I was guilty of killing my son by way of failing to save him.

Then the drinking began. 

Every time I closed my eyes I saw the change in his pupils at the moment where life left his body.  I still see it sometimes. But at the time I wasn’t as strong as I am now, and so I turned to the vice of so many before me.  I found sleep in a bottle and comfort in a glass.  I never saw that I was in danger of losing my wife and friends.

My will to live was non-existent.  Many times, during heavy storms I would take off my seatbelt and drive at high speeds along the freeway.  Once I was in a grocery store that was being robbed and I tried everything I could to provoke the gunman so he might shoot me.  He thought I was insane and fled.  I look back and think of how many people I could have harmed through my selfishness and pray for forgiveness.

But that is what losing “everything” can do to a person.  I was ill equipped to handle that kind of loss.  Truth be told I don’t know that I can survive it again, heaven forbid.  But the looming specter of such an event is always at my back.  Prompting me to be in a constant state of alertness regarding my family.  It’s the kind of pressure that will break a weaker man, as it had done to me.

I lived in a state of mere existence for a couple of years.  Waking up with a headache and the ever-present physical sensation of hopelessness.  Not caring enough to iron my clothes or even bathe most days, I’d go through the motions of living for eight hours plus commute, and then I’d return to my living death.  It wasn’t until I tried to end my life that I was re-awakened.  I won’t bore you with the details.

My return to humanity was difficult.  I had developed the mentality of a prisoner in a death camp.  I had accepted my defeat and done nothing to maintain my humanity.  I had lost my pride, my will and my hope. I had even come to embrace my prison since it was a known and predictable situation.  I assure you that until you have experienced a defeat of the soul, that you have not truly experienced defeat.

How did I snap back?  What did I do that reversed my course? 

Well… I must admit that Divine Intervention was likely the major reason.  I couldn’t have gotten through those early years unscathed without the Lord’s hand.  It was my wife that led me to that realization.  She also led me back to the Lord, and to my salvation, in more ways than one.

I have learned a few things on my journey.  I have learned that first and foremost, God is great.  That statement confuses many people.  They ask me, “How can you believe in God after your son died like that?” to which I reply “God didn’t kill my son, his illness did.” 

I have also learned that you need to be open to healing.  My pastor said just this past Sunday: “You know all of those people sitting in Church, trying to get a tan from the Light of The Lord?  Well, God isn’t in church with them.  He’s over there, in the darkness, trying help… because that’s where God does his best work…”

“In the blackest darkness, where even the smallest light can shine like a beacon… the light of the lord must be truly piercing.  We just have to learn that when we’re down and in the fetal position with our arms wrapped around our head, and life is kicking the heck out of us… that we have to unclench our eyes and get up.  We can’t see the light if we’re closed off in duck and cover mode.”

That last part is the message, I think.  Get up and look into the eyes of your loss.  Don’t let it throw you down and kick you into oblivion.  People are depending on you.  Even if they’re not nearby you will be needed.  Have the tools at hand to fight the darkness off.  I don’t know what tool I could have had to help me fight off my hopelessness at that time, but I know that there is little that can shake me now. 

When I feel weak I whittle, I read, I do push-ups, I cook and to my wife’s severe dismay I even sing.  All the while I take the problem before me and mentally spin it around so I can see it from many angles.  I never, ever just “do something”.  I’ve learned that sometimes doing nothing is the best thing to be done.  Answers may become apparent as a situation plays out.  Just be ready to provide solutions by maintain a variety of skills.

Mostly though, I learned to fight back.  I think that applies in a very practical sense to the preparedness mentality.  Not fighting in the physical life-or-death combat sense, but in combat of the spirit and soul.  I started a non-profit to raise money for research into my son’s illness.  I never feel as happy as when I am handing a check to the research team.  It’s my way of saying to the murderer behind the microscope “I’m coming for you!”

I don’t know what, if anything, you may take from this.  I felt compelled to write this because the loss of life in the Philippines has struck a chord in my heart.  I remember all too well how some of those people are feeling.  I understand hopelessness.  But I look back at my path and I see a direct line to where I now stand, and in so seeing I urge you:

Never give up.

The greater defeat is in the surrender, not in the loss.  I learned that the hard way.

Be vigilant, my friends.

Oh… I almost forgot:  If you say the Lord’s Prayer, keep in mind that when you say, “Thy will be done on Earth, as it is in Heaven.” You had better mean it.  He’s taking you at your word.



Letter Re: A Homemade Well-Bailing Bucket, by Bill C.

Sir,
This device allows for the baling of water from a standard “drilled and cased” domestic water well in the event of a power outage.  The only drawback is that the “guts” of the well system must first be removed from the well – this includes pump, pipe, cable, wiring, etc.
Materials List

  1. Section of solid PVC pipe sized for the well casing diameter – probably 3-inch inside diameter will fit most water wells.  A 30-inch section of 3-inch pipe will hold about a gallon of water.
  2. End cap – use a flat test cap rather than the usual convex permanent cap.
  3. PVC primer and glue – to affix the end cap to the pipe section.
  4. Plumber’s gasket – this is a rubber sheet, typically red in color, and available as 6-inch squares found in the plumbing aisle in a home improvement / hardware store.
  5. Long bolt and locknut – this is placed through the pipe section at the top to secure a d-ring and rope.  Length needs to be appropriate for the pipe diameter.  Stainless steel is preferred.
  6. Short bolt, fender washer, and locknut – this is for assembling the gasket and end cap.  A 1-inch long ¼-20 bolt, wide washer, and locknut is typical.  Stainless steel is preferred.
  7. D-link – placed on the top long bolt and to secure the rope.  ¾-inch or 1-inch size is typical.
  8. Rope or cord – attached to the D-link for lowering the bucket into the well.  Nylon or poly braid in 100-foot lengths is typical.

Tools Needed

  1. Drill and bit – holes in the pipe for top long bolt and holes in the end cap and gasket.  Bit size is determined by hole size that must be large enough to accommodate the bolts (or rope).
  2. Screwdriver or wrench – determined by the bolt head configurations.
  3. Pliers or wrench – because locknuts are used.
  4. Scissors – to cut the plumber’s gasket

Assembly Instructions

  1. Option 1 – drill holes through one end of the pipe and install the long top bolt and nut.  This is used with the D-link and rope.  Make sure the bolt head and locknut still have clearance on the inside of the well casing.  Option 2 – drill holes and use rope only without a bolt, nut, and D-link.
  2. Cut a round piece from the plumber’s gasket to fit the inside diameter of the pipe section.  Diameter of round gasket should be about a ¼-inch less than the pipe’s inside diameter.  The end cap can serve as a template.
  3. Drill a hole in the center of the round gasket to accommodate the short bolt.  Drill a hole in the center of the end cap for the short bolt.  Also drill eight holes around the outside edge of the end cap – these are the water infiltration holes.
  4. Place the round gasket atop the inside surface of the end cap.  From the other side, insert the short bolt through the end cap center hole and through the round gasket hole.  Place washer over the bolt against the gasket and secure with the locknut.  Do not over-tighten the locknut.
  5. Prime and glue the end cap assembly on the bottom end of the pipe section.  Allow to dry.

Testing Instructions
Once the end cap glue is dried and cured, then the performance of the well bucket can be tested.  Fill a sink, tub, or other vessel with water.  Lower the well bucket into the water and water should flow into the device through the holes in the bottom end cap.  As the well bucket is raised, the weight of the water should press down upon the gasket and keep the water from leaking out.  It may not be a water-tight seal, but it should be adequate to bale water from the well casing.

Well Baling Instructions

  1. If the top bolt and D-link option was used, attach the rope to the D-link at the top of the well bucket.  Make sure the bitter end of the rope is secured to a stable tie-off point.  If only rope is used, then thread the rope through the drilled holes and secure the rope to the top of the well bucket.  Tie-off the bitter end of the rope to a stable point.
  2. Lower the well bucket into the well casing and submerge in the column of water in the well casing.  Allow water to fill the well bucket.  Raise the filled well bucket out of the well casing and pour contents into a storage vessel.  Repeat as desired.

Notes and Comments

  1. Water weighs about 8.3 pounds per gallon (think of a gallon jug of milk from the grocery store).
  2. A 30-inch long, 3-inch diameter well bucket will hold almost one gallon.  Longer or wider well buckets will hold more water.
  3. For those concerned with volumetric mathematics, here are some data points:
    1. Bucket volume equation is Pi times pipe radius squared (inches) times pipe length.
      Pi = 3.1416.  This volume equation yields cubic inches of water.
    2. To convert cubic inches to gallons, divide cubic inches by 231 to derive gallons.
      With the 30-inch pipe, 3-inch diameter example, the equation is:
      3.1416 x 1.52 x 30 = 212 cubic inches = 0.92 gallons = 117 ounces
  4. As an aside, the volume equation can also be used to calculate the storage capacity of your well bore hole.  (I have a very deep well that is low yielding in gallons per minute but there is a large storage capacity volume due to the drill depth – perhaps some piece of mind.)

Don’t be over-zealous in making a larger or longer well bucket.  Water is heavy and baling out of the well head is ergonomically challenging.  A repeated vertical rope-pulling  lift of even 50 feet with only a ten-pound load (one gallon plus bucket) will prove to be a strenuous workout.

JWR Adds: A commercially-made foot valve (available at your local plumbing supply store) is usually much more efficient and reliable than a home-made one, but YMMV.



Letter Re: Pat’s Product Review – EnGarde Hard Body Armor

James,
I love the SurvivalBlog site and love the product reviews. They are always very helpful. Regarding Pat’s recent product review on EnGarde Hard Body Armor, I thought I would help you and Pat on the BUY AMERICAN front, and recommend Infidel Body Armor, which is made right here in the USA. (In Texas.)
 
The Infidel armor sues the same AR-500 steel panels.  Great carriers, and great add-ons. I bought one 8 months ago and I love it! I’m going to buy some more. Check out their video tests of the panels under repeated fire. That is what sold me on them.
 
Keep the faith, – Jeff N. in West Virginia

JWR Replies: Thanks for that suggestion. We too prefer American-made products, but we also run un-biased reviews of imported products, for the sake of fairness. Pat has already posted one favorable review of Infidel Body Armor, and he has one more that is being readied another review about the latest soft body armor from the same company.



News From The American Redoubt:

Attention Montanans: I read about a great place to shoot: Central Montana Shooting Complex, near Lewistown.

   o o o

Counter-Insurgency Warfare in Boise?

   o o o

A Montana mountain man gives a judge a piece of his mind. I must mention that the judge looks like she came straight out of Central Casting in Hollywood. (I think she’d be perfect for one particular part.)

   o o o

Here is an interesting product that is designed and made in the Redoubt: Headache Hammock





Odds ‘n Sods:

 
JRH Enterprises is having an early Black Friday sale on New Gen 3+ Pinnacle Autogated PVS-14s, all ITT made tubes, with 5 year warranty. Comes with all the accessories plus a FREE weapons mount and shuttered eye guard. JRH is also throwing in an Infrared Beacon as well, all for $2,595. They also have other Black Friday sales in progress on FLIR Scout Thermal Imagers and
Dakota Alert (MURS band) perimeter security alarms.

   o o o

“When a right devolves into a privilege…” : Washington D.C. gun owners will be forced to submit fingerprints and pay a fee.

   o o o

Tim J. sent a fascinating interview video: Meet Fred Bieser, World War II Airplane Turret Restorer

   o o o

T.C. in Minnesota saw a great charity promotion when preparing to pre-order some chicks from Meyer Hatchery. When you place an order you can add a “Meyer Meal Maker” chick to your order and receive one free chick to raise to laying/butchering age and then they ask that you donate the eggs or meat to a local needy family or to a charity.



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"It seems to be the fate of all nations, that as they grow in wealth so they lose their manly virtues. With wealth comes corruption, indolence, a reluctance to make sacrifices, and a weakening of the feeling of patriotism. Power falls into the hands of the ignorant many. Instead of the destinies of the country being swayed by the wisest and best, a fickle multitude, swayed by interested demagogues, assumes the direction of affairs, and the result is inevitable—wasted powers, gross mismanagement, final ruin." – George A. Henty, The Young Carthaginian, 1887



Notes from JWR:

November 25th is the birthday of economist and comedian Ben Stein. His unscripted monologue on economics from Ferris Bueller’s Day Off is one of the most memorable scenes in American cinema. By the way, Stein spends part of each year at his second home in Sandpoint, Idaho, so he should be called an honorary Redoubter.

Round 49 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest ends in just five days, so please e-mail us your entry soon. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum.



Pat’s Product Review: EnGarde Hard Body Armor

Since 1980 I’ve had a real interest in body armor. Back then, I ran a gun business and I was contacted by a fairly large Oregon police department to bid on a request–they wanted for some soft body armor. I placed a bid, and much to my surprise, I won it! At that time, the biggest name around in soft body armor was Second Chance. I contacted Rich Davis at Second Chance, and told him I had won a bid to supply a fairly large police department with soft body armor. However, I didn’t have the funds to purchase the armor from Second Chance. No problem! Davis simply had me add the name of Second Chance to the bid, and he sent me the armor, and he received a check, and sent me my share.

EnGarde Body Armor contacted me, and wanted to send me one of their hard body armor carriers, complete with hard body armor panels to test for SurvivalBlog readers. Over the years, I’ve tested many different types of soft and hard body armor, some failed my testing, while some more than lived up to their claims. While I make no claim of expertise’ in the area of testing body armor, I have walked away with some interesting results over the years. One company, that is no longer in business – wonder why? – is because their armor failed miserably in my testing – simply placing their soft armor panel in front of a phone book, and firing a 9mm round, that the company claimed their armor would stop. Unfortunately, I was performing this test in front of a police department, that was interested in purchasing this T-shirt style soft body armor. Not only did the 9mm round in question completely penetrate the vest, it also completely penetrated the phone book behind it. I didn’t win an order for body armor that day. However, I’m glad I performed the test, seeing as how I was a retail dealer for that particular brand of body armor – it opened my eyes!
 
EnGarde Body Armor is located in The Netherlands, however, they have offices all over the world. So, if you live in a country outside of the USA, and wish to purchase their body armor, please contact them, for a location near you. The USA has very strict laws regarding the export of body armor – you simply can’t live in another country, and if you happen to see body armor for sale in the USA and want a dealer to ship it to you – they can’t! It’s against several Federal laws!
 
A little background on EnGarde is in order. They are a leading manufacturer of high quality armor products, utilized by law enforcement, military and civilians all over the world. They also take great pride in the performance, comfort and durability of their products. Their vests outperform the standards set down by the National Institute of Justice (NIJ) which is recognized the world over for testing and setting the standards in body armor protection levels. To be sure, you can’t just purchase any old body armor – you have to understand the threat-level you will be facing, and act accordingly in picking the right threat level for your needs. Over the years, in law enforcement and in private security work, I only felt the need for soft body armor – designed to stop most common handgun rounds. However today, I might look at things differently if I were still involved in those lines of work.
 
I received the EnGarde T.R.U.S.T.  plate carrier that is normally offered with a Level IV level. Mine came with two Level IIIA soft panels. The Level IV plates are for stopping high-powered rifle rounds, like those you’d encounter on a battlefield: 5.56mm 7.62×39 and .308 Win. I believe that many SurvivalBlog readers are more interested in hard body armor, than they are the soft panels, if it came down to a TEOTWAWKI scenario – then again, I could be wrong. However, the set-up I received was Level IIIA and it will also stop many common handgun rounds, as well as some rifle rounds.
 
You will find two different types of hard body armor on the market, one is from steel plates that are called AR-500 steel, and the other are ceramic plates, which is what EnGarde sells for their hard armor needs. Of course, there are endless debates as to which is better, the AR-500 steel plates or the ceramic plates? And, I have no intention of getting into that debate here, or through e-mails. Both types of hard body armor have their pluses and minuses. The AR-500 steel plates are heavier than ceramic plate. The AR-500 steel plates can take many multiple hits without failing. The ceramic plates are lighter – quite a bit lighter and more comfortable. However, they aren’t rated to take as many multiple hits. I believe NIJ tests armored plates – for hard body armor – to withstand 6 or 7 hits without failing. And, if you are in a place where you have been hit 6 or 7 times by high-powered rifle rounds, you should be in a different place – simple as that. Some claim that ceramic hard armor plates are a bit fragile, and you shouldn’t drop them or they’ll crack or break in short order. And, to be sure, the plates aren’t just manufactured out of ceramic material – Aluminum is added to the ceramic plates – and some companies closely guard their secret formulas for good cause. Again, I’m no expert in this field, so keep that in mind.
 
According to the NIJ standard, a Level IV plate should be able to stop one (only) round of .30 Caliber (7.62 NATO) armor piercing round (AP M2 ball) at 2,880 FPS. Most level IV ceramic plates in the market tend to fall apart after one hit from an AP round – the EnGarde can take several rounds of fire. Unfortunately, my precious few rounds of 7.62 NATO AP ammo had been used for testing another hard body armor, so I didn’t have any AP rounds to test on the EnGarde ceramic plates.
 
Before testing the EnGarde hard body armor, I placed the two hard ceramic plates, along with the two soft armor panels in the plate carrier that was sent to me – it was easy to insert the plates and the soft panel, however it took a little bit of time to get the carrier all adjusted so that it was comfortable. I wore the carrier and plates around my homestead for several hours, and made a few more small adjustments. And, as time goes by, you will probably make a few more adjustments, so it all fits and feels just perfect on your body. I will say though, that the ceramic plates with the soft armor panels in the T.R.U.S.T. carrier were very comfortable to wear. And, if something isn’t comfortable, you’re not going to wear it – period! A lot has to do with the plate carrier you select, and how many adjustments are available on the carrier.
 
Now, while the NIJ testing facility has their scientific methods for testing body armor, I prefer to just do it out at my usual shooting spot, and I simply placed the hard armor against a tree and fired at it from 25 yards away, with a Springfield Armory M1A rifle, loaded with military surplus ammo – ball ammo. I don’t know what the ballistic were, as my chrony long ago gave-up the ghost. I fired at the EnGarde hard plate 10-times, and not in the same area – I fired at various areas of the vest, and there was no failure – however, I was getting close. Another 10 rounds and the ceramic plate had failed. Now, that’s not to say ceramic plates “failed” my test – far from it. It outperformed NIJ hits by quite a bit. The ceramic plates are meant to break apart – that’s the way they are designed – they captured the bullet fragments as the bullet hits.
 
I still had one ceramic plate left for testing. On another outing, I took a bolt-action .30-06 rifle, with some FMJ ammo, and once again, at 25 yards, I began firing at the plate. To my surprise, the plate held-up for the first four rounds. I reloaded and began firing again, and this time, between rounds, I went downrange and checked the plate for penetration. It was on the 8th round, that there was a failure of the plate. Again, while I use the word “failure” the plate performed as expected – it actually performed better than expected.
 
I also tested the soft armor panels, that are rated to withstand 9mm and similar handgun rounds, not rounds fired from a rifle. And, to be honest, I lost track of the number of hits the two soft panels took from a 9mm and .45 ACP handgun rounds – without failure. But both panels were starting to look pretty ragged – but they didn’t fail! Now, the idea of having the soft panels behind the hard ceramic armor is to absorb some of the blunt force trauma – and that’s a good thing. And, you can also wear the soft panels as a stand alone set-up, if you  feel you will only be facing common handgun rounds. You actually have the best of both worlds with this set-up from EnGarde Body Armor.
 
The two ceramic hard armor plates are rated at threat Level IV, and the two soft armor panels are rated at Level IIIA – you are actually getting two different vests, for the price of one – if you use the T.R.U.S.T. carrier by itself, or you can purchase another carrier for use with the soft panels – a carrier that is more appropriate for soft body armor panels.
 
My testing wasn’t scientific. Then again, if someone is shooting at you in the field, you’re not concerned with how well the armor stands up under controlled scientific conditions – you only care that the armor does what it’s supposed to do – stop the bullets from penetrating your body – and that’s what it’s all about, isn’t it?
 
I’ve looked around and found hard body armor, with ceramic plates (only) in a carrier, for as much as $2,000+ now keep in mind that, that is just for two ceramic plates and a carrier. I’ve also seen ceramic plates with a carrier for under $1,000 and everywhere in between. And, in many cases the seller was a private individual, so you have no idea how well the armor was cared for. Buyer beware!
 
Now, math wasn’t my best subject in school, however I did learn to add and subtract, if nothing else. I’m told by Iwan Luiten, at EnGarde Body Armor, that his product manager informed him that the EnGarde T.R.U.S.T. plate carrier, is normally offered with the Level IV and Level IIIA panels, and the entire set-up is priced at $599 USD plus shipping. Now, in my book, that’s one heck of a deal, on not just the plate carrier with the Level IV hard armor plates, but you are also getting two 9mm soft armor panels. That is a deal you don’t want to miss out on, if you’re in the market for hard body armor. I’ve seen soft body armor cost a lot more than this – and with this EnGarde set-up, you are getting a carrier, plus hard plates and two soft panels!   – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Letter Re: Homemade Soap Making Instructions

Mr. Rawles:

Here is a recipe for soap, not food,. This has saved us a lot of money and aggravation over the years. We decided to make our own laundry soap after my daughter (now four years old) was born. Her skin wouldn’t tolerate any artificial perfumes or dyes and she would break out in horrible acne if exposed to artificiality of that sort.

The basis of this recipe we found online, then modified it to meet our needs. It includes only shelf-stable materials and is suitable for both washing machines and hand-washing.

The ingredients include:

–One bar of soap, grated. The soap you use is up to you. We’ve used Ivory, Octagon, soap made at home with lye and vegetable fats, homemade soap with animal fats and lye, a soap called Zote( that is usually marketed to Latinos), Fels Naphtha, and a wide variety of whatever is on hand, all with good results. The Zote is marketed as a laundry soap. It comes in a 14 oz. bar, significantly larger than a standard 4-5 oz bar of soap, so we usually make a double batch when using it. (If the math seems off, adjust it. I’m saying only what has worked for us.)

–1 cup of washing soda. This is not baking soda. I have read that you can make washing soda out of baking soda by baking it (which eliminates some of the carbon and some oxygen, as I understand it). But as the two are approximately the same cost to begin with, I see no sense in converting sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate. The only reason I can think of is if you should choose to store only baking soda and not washing soda, or if you should happen to run out of bicarb.

–1/2 (halfa) cup of borax. Some people use only a quarter cup of borax, claiming it doesn’t cause clothing to break down as quickly. They might be right. They might not. YMMV. We use a half cup and have seen no inordinately negative effects in four years.

–3 gallons of water. Just water.

First, start by boiling about 2-3 quarts of water in a stainless steel pot. DO NOT use your good cast iron for this unless you want to ruin the seasoning/coating. Turn the water down to a simmer after it boils.

Begin adding the shredded soap slowly, allowing a small quantity to dissolve before adding another bit. Use a large stainless steel or plastic spoon to stir. Stir constantly until all soap has been added and is dissolved. You will end up with a thick mixture I call “soap soup” just because it’s fun to say.

Into a five-gallon bucket or other large container, place the borax and washing soda. Pour the soap soup in with the other ingredients and stir with the stainless steel spoon until the dry ingredients are dissolved (or nearly so). We use a round kitchen-size trash can with marks on the outside to show three gallons and six gallons are. You’ll have to measure those ahead of time.

Add enough warm water to bring to three gallons. Stir wholeheartedly, making sure everything but the bucket and spoon dissolves. Cover the mixture and allow it to sit for 24 hours before putting it in bottles. You don’t even have to bottle it: You can use it straight out of the bucket. However, we found it best to save up empty laundry detergent bottles for a month or so before beginning this project. If you stir the bucket thoroughly before bottling, and shake each bottle thoroughly before using, you’ll get the optimum distribution of materials for each load of laundry.

At one cup of laundry detergent per load, this makes 48 loads. I usually make a double batch, which is 96 loads — meaning about two or three months worth of laundry for approximately $6 invested in the detergent. I’m an EMT and my uniform must be changed and washed after each 24-hour shift, at least, to get rid of the mixture of sweat, blood, and red Mississippi mud. I have a 4-year-old, my wife is a professional, and I work 48-96 hours a week and consequently I do a lot of laundry.

Before bottling the soap, I add 30-40 drops of tea tree essential oil to the mixture. That might sound like a lot, but 30 drops over 96 loads is actually a very small quantity. My wife has a history of MRSA and the tea tree oil seems to be effective in keeping that particular infection at bay. Put it this way: She hasn’t had an outbreak since we started using the oil. You could also add other (and more) essential oils to the soap mixture, should you want your clothing to smell pretty. I prefer my clothes to smell like nothing at all (call it OPSEC), and a third of a drop of tea tree oil per load leaves nothing noticeable behind. Lavender and other flowery oils do leave a smell.

So, for five or six cents per load of laundry using shelf-stable ingredients, you get clothing that is very clean, smells of nothing at all (unless you want it to), and turns whites more white while leaving colored clothing still colored.

As always, thanks JWR for your time and energy in keeping this blog site up. – J.D.C. in Mississippi



Letter Re: Source for Custom-Made Web Gear?

Mr. Rawles,

I was just informed by Valerie at TacticalTailor that due to high demand, their custom shop is not currently accepting additional work. Perhaps your readers know of someone providing a similar service (or that would like the launch one)?

Thank you, – D.D. in Colorado

JWR Replies: I’m sure that there are many others, but the first custome makers that comes to mind are Mystery Ranch for backpacks and The Vest Guy for magazine pouches. If any blog readers in the United States do custom work in nylon, leather, or Kydex, then please let me know and I will post contact info is that you can connect with customers.



Letter Re: The Serval Mesh Network

Mr. Rawles,
If you have not yet heard of the Serval Project, I would encourage you to check out the web site. This is an Australian based non-profit that is attempting to build the software and hardware for a mesh network that can be erected post-disaster. It is all open-source and there is even a free Serval app available at the Google App Store.

For those of you not familiar with the idea, mesh networks are self-contained networks that run off of the same protocols as the internet, using the same hardware, but are not necessarily linked to the actual World Wide Web (hence, no ‘off-switch’). Each item on the network, be it a laptop, desktop, android tablet device, or android smart phone would be connected to each other, using the app or other software, giving each user the ability to place a phone call, send a text or image, etc. with any other entity on the mesh network. Literally, two devices can connect to each other with no other technology required. There are other apps similar to this, such as Open Garden, but Serval looks to be entirely self-contained.

One issue with android phones is the range (however, there seems to be a work around that adds range to the phones if they are rooted). The people at Serval are attempting to remedy this by designing and building an ‘extender’ that they claim will push the maximum range to kilometers. It is called a Serval Extender, and while it is not available yet, this is an open source movement that many people are working on, and it is only a few months along in its development. Therefore, I expect to see several items available to enhance this concept on the internet soon, either for sale or the instructions as a free download (It would be similar to the Raspberry Pi or Arduino concept, which is open source hardware that is now widely available with tons of resources on the internet for free).

Keep in mind, the original intent was for post-disaster networks to spring up with ease. The designer was inspired by the Haitian earthquake. He realized that once the cell network went down, there were potentially hundreds or thousands of smartphones that could be used to communicate which instantly became useless. He conceived Serval as an app that could go on each phone, and you could immediately be part of a this new network.

Assuming the technology survives an EMP a group could deploy this network and use existing phones, tablets, computers, and their chargers for commo gear. You even keep the same phone number! The messages are sent encrypted. Unless the looter bad guys have Serval on their phones, you could probably consider the network private. I doubt any other device would be able to translate the signal, although it would be pretty easy to detect. This, in my opinion, is more advantageous than GMRS or CB because of the ability to send texts and images. The power requirements for these would be negligible, low in fact. One small PV panel could run the extender, one more to charge the devices, or just use hand cranks.

I think this would create an interesting dialogue on SurvivalBlog.com, and I hope others look into this. I look forward to the responses! – Dan in Florida



Letter Re: Light Blocking Suggestions for Windows

James:
In response to the recent article: Light Blocking Suggestions for Windows, I’d like to mention that another very low cost option for blacking out windows is a roll of roofing (tar) paper. It takes up very little space. It can also be used as expedient, water-resistant repair material.  – Pat O’C.

JWR Replies: Tar paper does indeed have many uses, but I’de recommend that you use it outside, rather than inside widows. Tar paper is notorious for outgassing. The distinctive tarry smell can linger for many months or even years in a confined space, so I would recommend never storing or using it inside a living space. It is also important to avoid using tar paper on the outer (exposed) layer of roofs that will be use for drinking water catchment.



Recipe of the Week:

Homeschool Mom’s Cheesy Chili Mac Soup

1 T. butter or oil
1 lg. onion, chopped

Saute the above for a few minutes. To it, add:

1 lb. ground beef or other ground meat
1 T. chili powder
1 t. cumin

Cook until browned. Then add:

2 1/2 C. milk (use fresh or canned reconstituted, I find soups are a good way to rotate storage milks)
2 C beef broth (I like to store the little Knorr Homestyle tubs that you reconstitute, no MSG in them)
1 8oz. pkg cream cheese

Stir together, bring to a boil and add:

1 1/2 C. pasta of the smaller variety, such as macaroni or little shells

Cook until pasta is done, then add:

2 C. shredded cheddar
1 jar of salsa

Stir together until cheese is melted, and serve. My husband and kids like to eat this soup with tortilla chips.

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

Famous Chili Recipes

Macaroni Recipes

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!