Odds ‘n Sods:

Reader Gregg P. suggested this piece: Blackwater founder Erik Prince on why private militaries are the future. Gregg asks: “How will mercenary armies behave, after the Schumer Hits the Fan?”

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JRH Enterprises is continuing their Black Friday sale on New Gen 3+ Pinnacle Autogated PVS-14s, all ITT made tubes, with 5 year warranty. Comes with all the accessories plus a free weapons mount and shuttered eye guard. JRH is also throwing in an Infrared Beacon as well, all for $2,595. They also have other Black Friday sales in progress on FLIR Scout Thermal Imagers and
Dakota Alert (MURS band) perimeter security alarms.

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T.C. in Minnesota mentioned a video from American Family Now about adding a wood stove to an RV camper for $200.  T.C. notes: “Their blog is also full of good information.  They are a family of six living in an RV.”

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Montie Gear (one of our newest advertisers) has announced some Black Friday/Cyber Monday specials.

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Camping Survival has announced three upcoming specials: Mountain House SaleBlack FridayCyber Monday

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Ready Made Resources is running a pre-Christmas sale on Mountain House foods until the 13th of December with 25% to 42% off , free shipping and upon request they are willing to mix and match varieties in six-can cases with the varieties that they have on hand.

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U.S. Tactical Supply is having their first ever Thanksgiving / Black Friday sale. Though they are not a SurvivalBlog advertiser, you will recognize some of the items as products that Pat Cascio has reviewed for SurvivalBlog in their sale and clearance. These include the X-Products 50-round drums, M14/M1A Juggernaut stocks, and the Sage EBR M14/M1A stocks. The sale ends December 6th, 2013.





Note from JWR:

In recognition of the National Day of Thanksgiving and Prayer, I’m just posting one quote for today’s blog. Have a joyous holiday. I encourage you to truly give thanks to God, our provider. Jehovah Jireh!



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Whereas it is the duty of all Nations to acknowledge the providence of Almighty God, to obey his will, to be grateful for his benefits, and humbly to implore his protection and favor, and Whereas both Houses of Congress have by their joint Committee requested me “to recommend to the People of the United States a day of public thanksgiving and prayer to be observed by acknowledging with grateful hearts the many signal favors of Almighty God, especially by affording them an opportunity peaceably to establish a form of government for their safety and happiness.”

Now therefore I do recommend and assign Thursday the 26th day of November next to be devoted by the People of these States to the service of that great and glorious Being, who is the beneficent Author of all the good that was, that is, or that will be. That we may then all unite in rendering unto him our sincere and humble thanks, for his kind care and protection of the People of this country previous to their becoming a Nation, for the signal and manifold mercies, and the favorable interpositions of his providence, which we experienced in the course and conclusion of the late war, for the great degree of tranquility, union, and plenty, which we have since enjoyed, for the peaceable and rational manner in which we have been enabled to establish constitutions of government for our safety and happiness, and particularly the national One now lately instituted, for the civil and religious liberty with which we are blessed, and the means we have of acquiring and diffusing useful knowledge and in general for all the great and various favors which he hath been pleased to confer upon us.

And also that we may then unite in most humbly offering our prayers and supplications to the great Lord and Ruler of Nations and beseech him to pardon our national and other transgressions, to enable us all, whether in public or private stations, to perform our several and relative duties properly and punctually, to render our national government a blessing to all the People, by constantly being a government of wise, just and constitutional laws, discreetly and faithfully executed and obeyed, to protect and guide all Sovereigns and Nations (especially such as have shown kindness unto us) and to bless them with good government, peace, and concord. To promote the knowledge and practice of true religion and virtue, and the encrease of science among them and Us, and generally to grant unto all Mankind such a degree of temporal prosperity as he alone knows to be best." – George Washington’s Thanksgiving Proclamation, 1789



Notes from JWR:

This is the birthday of both SurvivalBlog’s Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio and sci-fi novelist L. Sprague de Camp (1907 – 2000.)

Today we present another entry for Round 49 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $8,500+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225, and I.) VPN tunnel, DigitalSafe and private e-mail annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $265.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 23 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $210 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., F.) A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises , and G.) A Nesco / American Harvest Gardenmaster Dehydrator with an extra set of trays, and the book The Dehydrator Bible, from Mayflower Trading. (A $210 value.)

Round 49 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Cleaning and Lubricating Your Lead Launcher, by Keith H. in Ohio

In the course of most firearms related articles there is the usual debate over caliber, brand names, action types, magazines, super-duper sights, LED lasers/lights, savvy slings, hot holsters and of course the great rail debate. Very little is written on the after effects of all that lead launching other than the firearms needs cleaned. In reality most shooters should spend as much, if not more, time cleaning and maintaining their firearms then they did actually tripping the trigger. The vast majority of shooters I see at public ranges and gun clubs do not even bring rudimentary cleaning and firearm maintenance gear with them to the range.

Countless times I have been at the range where someone brings their new or “kit” AR and they under lube it and have an extraction failure of a spent case or it bogs down with a dry bolt carrier group. New ARs are usually under-lubed and have a lot of wear in burnishing off coatings and the carbon gas blast that builds up in the BCG. Many new AR owners at the range usually do not have any cleaning kit with them so I dutifully (yes, it’s our duty to help the uninitiated) open my well stocked range tackle box and extract a rod kit and pop out the stuck case show them how to properly lube and get the AR going again. New AR platforms are the standard offenders but I have see a good sampling of other rifles and handguns that are shot dry slow down or jam up.

I once overheard a couple of well-heeled and well-dressed shooters (who arrived at the range in a 500 series Mercedes) debating over how to lube their new custom combat carry pieces. The one guy was actually stating that he was not going to put any lube on it at all since the gun store salesman told him that his new Tactical Tupperware could be shot dry. He exclaimed he did not want his gun “sweating oil” onto his dress shirts and pants. I personally knew the other shooter as a local lawyer and recognized the newbie Tactical Tupperware owner as the new “hotshot” member of the law firm. I commented on the nice Mercedes he drove to the range and asked him how well he would expect his Mercedes to run if he did not put any oil in it. He stated that would be stupid and that it would tie up the engine. I stated that it’s better to lube than bleed.

The other shooter/lawyer I already knew personally started laughing loudly and then he introduced me to the new guy. I further explained to the new guy that I had made a living carrying a handgun everyday as a LEO and firearms instructor and had made it to the half century mark without a gun failure due to lubrication issues. I then asked if the he had a cleaning kit for his new gun. He said it came with a brush and that he had bought a small bottle of gun oil and some patches but they were at home.  I explained I have seen too many shooters with over a thousand dollars in firearms hardware, high dollar holsters and cases of ammo without even a $10 cleaning kit from Wal-Mart. I explained the necessity and benefit of bringing a cleaning kit to the range and it’s a mere inconvenience when a sluggish or jammed up firearm is a problem on the range, but if the firearm jams when your life depends on it, it is a really bad day, or maybe the last day it will happen to you.

We in America, for the most part, take for granted the Petroleum products, textiles, and metals that make up our modern everyday lives. We expend untold billions in dollars and untold lives and limbs of our servicemen and women to secure the foreign well fields in places like Saudi Arabia, Iraq, and the Middle East and use tanker ships to bring us crude oil. It is then piped and refined by a vast industry to make and deliver our petroleum products to our waiting hands whether at a gas pump nozzle or your favorite bottle of Hoppes #9. The majority of worldwide textile production and mass clothing production has long been outsourced from the USA to the cheaper labor and cheaper source materials of foreign lands. Every try to grow cotton, spin thread or loom some cloth? How about dig out metal ore, smelt it, refine it and work it into usable metal objects? If you step back and look at the intricate web of delivery chain complexity you quickly realize it is daunting to grasp. In a long term grid down event these long supply chains will quickly disappear and the petroleum products, textiles, and specialty metals (steel, lead, copper and brass) will become highly valued commodities after a very short time.

My first firearms cleaning experience came from my father. My father and his twin brother volunteered for military service in 1940 so they could go through basic together. After basic they split into different units and my father started fighting World War II in the Pacific with the 37th Division the (same islands that their father fought over in the Spanish American War). My father was eventually promoted as a training Sergeant and then was transferred to train troops stateside and in England and he then lead them in beach landings at Normandy on D-Day.

Throughout his time in combat his men had to routinely tear down old clothing (mostly enemies) for rags and patches and also use boot laces or cordage as field expedient “bore snakes” to keep weapons running when weapon cleaning supplies did not arrive at the front. Supply chains were often hard pressed enough to get the crucial ammo and food forward. They often used diesel and gasoline fuels mixed with various motor pool fluids to make field expedient weapons lubes. Sometimes too light and volatile of a mix would catch fire or smoke heavily while running the various machine guns and anti aircraft guns and too thick a mix would bind up the weapons when the lighter compounds boiled off. They prized actually getting real firearms rated oils, greases and bore cleaners when they could get them. They routinely would destroy enemy weapons and ammo but they always re-tasked the enemy’s firearms cleaning oils and cleaning supplies.

I was raised in a small town rural community and I started shooting firearms at age of ten. My father first taught me to clean firearms with an old bootlace, old pillow case cloth hand cut patches and some kerosene as a solvent/lubricant. My father said he wanted me to first learn the hard way to clean a firearm so that I would more appreciate the easy methods now available.  After a time he introduced me to an old tooth brush and then eventually a proper cleaning kit with a real bore rod, precut patches, bore brush, gun solvent Hoppes #9, and real firearms oil that made cleaning to his training sergeant  standards a whole lot easier. By the age of eleven I had the responsibility for cleaning all the firearms whenever we went shooting or hunting.  That may seem young by today’s standards but my older brother and I had our father and our other uncles (all WWII combat veterans) raise us properly with respect for firearms and their proper care.

Old threadbare sheets, pillow cases, blankets, shirts, pants, socks and such should be saved and laundered one last time without scented detergents and then prepared for various firearms cleaning duty.  We shooters now enjoy a wide variety of pre cut, sized and specialty cleaning patches and pre oiled rags for our firearm care needs. It is so very easy to simply buy a bag full of patches with a can of gun scrubber, gun oil and maybe a new bore brush at the local gun shop every time we pick up ammo and other gear.

The best gun rags are old lint free sheets and pillow cases, but flannel shirts and socks work well also. The best way to salvage them is to snip and strip them into various sized squares. Resist the urge to pre cut different sizes of cleaning patches for the various gun bore sizes. Patches are usually caliber sized with one inch for .22 caliber and two inch for .30 caliber and so on. If you simply keep the salvaged rags to about sixteen inch squares they then can be stripped off the side of the square into appropriate widths strips and then further torn into caliber sized patches at the actual time of weapon cleaning. If you have ever opened a military cleaning kit that was field carried with bore and chamber brushes rubbing the patches apart into a pile of ratty thread stripped patches you will understand the less raw edges being carried the better.

When you tear down cloth you can make a small cuts perpendicular to the open edge with a scissor or sharp knife and then grasp each half and rip the cloth along the warp long axis or across the weft side weave of the cloth.   As you approach the last 1/8th inch of the tear you should re-grip the two parts with your thumb and forefingers at the last two corner points on each half and give a firm tug pulling the last bit apart. This is to prevent getting a long running string from separating out and running. I routinely use sixteen inch squares. That size folds and rolls up nicely into Military M16 Alice style cleaning pouches that are widespread in the range world.  You can of course custom size to your preferred carry pouch. Tearing apart cloth for gun rags is somewhat therapeutic like popping bubble foam and if timed right around someone bending over it can be downright funny.

If you have a OTIS style cleaning kit you can buy regular round patches of similar diameter and fabric type in bulk (about $10 per thousand).) You can make your own cut patches by taking about a half inch stack of regular round patches and place it on top of a double fold piece of brown cardboard box. Under the stack of patches and cardboard box pieces place a plastic cutting board. Take a real OTIS patch and lightly use a fine tip Sharpie marker to highlight the slits in black. Take an X-acto knife straight chisel blade of the appropriate width and vertically plunge down through the stack at the appropriate highlighted locations. Take care to keep the stack straight and flat to keep slot placement equal during the vertical plunge cuts. You know when you are through by the cut into the cardboard. You can make OTIS style patches for about $10 per thousand material cost this way verses factory OTIS of about $60 per thousand. I made a permanent template out of a thin aluminum disk with a Dremel tool. Remember to sharpen the blades as needed for a clean wiggle plunge cut. You can use a sharp hammer hole gasket cutting punch to make round patches in stacks of used cloth on a pine board also.

We are spoiled by the quick and easy access to gun oils and cleaning solvents. Commercial gun oils are various and proprietary mixes that each has their specific viscosity and lubricating characteristics. There are more viscous oils such as Break Free CLP or FP 10 and thinner Clenzoil and Rem Oil types. Firearms types and seasonal weather require various lubrication plans. In small bottles gun oils run about $1 or $2 an ounce. When you buy it by the gallon the price drops greatly and usually varies from about $40 to $80 dollars a gallon (128 oz) or about 1/3 the price depending on the gun show or gun shop you find it in. Gun Scrubber is priced at about $8 dollars a can and the cheaper “non chlorinated brake cleaner” scrubber by various auto store brands at about $2 dollars a can. These solvents to help quickly cut the nasty carbon build up of our firearms. Remember when using any petrochemical solvents to do it in a well ventilated, non smoking and flame free areas away from any live ammunition. If you are planning on supporting a group sized shooting operation or a training range you can also obtain non chlorinated brake cleaner cheaper by buying it in drums through auto dealers and car shops. You can get small hand held spray bottle from auto parts stores that are charged with an air compressor.

There are a variety of homemade firearm oil recipes on the web and I have tried many and found few to come close to the readily available commercial brands. It may be worth your time to web search and store hard copies of formulas [such as Ed’s Red] for the long term emergency. You will probably be more hard pressed to find the varying ingredients called for in the home made recipes in a grid down situation than to just  stock up bulk  firearms grade oils and solvents in multiple locations now. The firearms industry has taken great time and effort in coming up with good compounds. Most times trying to reinvent the wheel is time wasted.

For good firearms cleaning you need to use a proper sized bore brush and chamber brush to really get the build up out of the rifling, chambers, and locking lugs and wear points. It is almost impossible to improvise a proper bore or chamber brush. I have seen various attempts at improvised brushes by twisting fine wires and then snipping them off. IMHO it never works to a reasonably degree and usually ends up breaking off fine wires in the bore which tend to align with the rifling in the oils and are a pain to remove. Short of possessing a bore brush twisting machine, a warehouse full of raw materials and backup power the most reasonable thing to do is to stock up as many as possible in various calibers.  Learn to use them properly by pushing them all the way through and never reverse them in the bore. Also never dip them into the cleaning solvents. Always apply the solvents to the brushes with a dropper or dipped clean patch. I use slightly worn brushes for my initial passes and then switch to better brushes as the bore gets progressively cleaner with solvents and patches. Old dental picks and free tooth brushes from your dentist are handy for the hard to reach nook and crannies. Plain Scotch bright green pads without soap coatings from the laundry isle are a real time saver in scrubbing off dirty bolts. Specialty carbon scraper tools for your rifle bolts are a bit pricey but a time saver also.  A variable speed battery operated drill on your firearm cleaning bench makes quick work of a dirty AR chamber with a chamber brush mounted on a short cleaning rod section. Take care not to bore too deep or too fast to prematurely ream out the chamber neck and bullet throat area.

Take the time to read the users manuals for all your firearms and clean and lubricate them properly. Also take time to learn other firearms types you do not currently possess as you may have to learn a new firearm you come across on the range or in life’s real world adventures.

And as always: Buy cheap and stock deep in multiple locations.



Letter Re: Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM II

James,
In his recent review, Pat Cascio accurately addressed the main objections to the SOCOM Rifle, muzzle blast and that much too fat tritium front sight. An Alternative within Springfield’s own product line up is the Squad Scout Rifle. The Squad Scout come with an 18″ barrel and a less blistering version of there muzzle brake and a National Match .062″ Front sight, and the appropriate rear sight (not National Match aperture diameter, but not that awful ghost ring) This is a nearly MOA rifle out of box.

The first one I bought had a beautiful gray green laminate stock, and rue the day I sold it. The current one has an also beautiful walnut stock,and $100 upgrade over black or green polymer too beautiful to ding up, so after much research I bought the Archangel stock.

One could spend over $1,000 on a upgrade chassis to the M1A Stock, but the tight fitting Archangel stock has been reviewed here.
as able to upgrade the rifle to 1/2 MOA, for under $300, and provide a stronger carbon fiber reinforced polymer option to the standard M1A stock.

One more acclamation for why to choose the M1A as a MBR for the survivalist rifleman. While an infantryman and later and infantry officer, I never trained with the M14.
However twice I was advised by the man behind the gun counter that above all other rifles on the rack that M1A Scout was the item to purchase. The first time was from the owner of Tabor Shooting Supply in South San Francisco, a salty old former Marine of the Viet Nam era who still competes in three-gun events with a Scout. He spoke praises of the M14 in Viet Nam, for its reliability and firepower, especially in comparison the the early M16 and said the only thing he did to the Scout was make sure he bough the walnut stock, because the polymer version gets “flexy” when hot from firing and looses some accuracy, and add the Smith Enterprise “Good Iron” muzzle brake (there is an impressive video of the item taming full auto M14 mag dump here.)

The second gun store guy to recommend the M1A Scout was behind the counter at Sportsman’s Warehouse in Medford, Oregon, this brawny young former Marine (coincidence?) was showing another store client the FN SCAR 7.62 rifle, a $3,800 item. I asked if that would be an upgrade from my Scout, and he replied that after two tours in Afghanistan as an Marine Infantry Designated Rifle Marksman, carrying a modified M14, he would trade everything in his gun safe to have one, and it never failed him in combat, and that the Scout version was “just the right size”.

I find these two sources as highly credible because of their time in actual combat, but separated by 30 plus years, and jungles versus the arid mountains but came the same conclusion regarding the M14 /M1A .

Just to wrap this up, if anyone has doubts about the M1A SOCOM or Scout in close quarters, please watch how Miculek handles the grandfather of the M1A, the much larger full size M1 Garand on close targets. See the 35 second clip or the full video.)

Cheers, – DC

JWR Replies: As someone who has owned a half dozen M1As over the years–I bought my first in 1978–I must agree that they are great rifles. Their only drawback at present is their relatively high price, the price of spare parts, and the price of extra magazines. For the same cash outlay needed to buy one M1A with a good assortment of spare parts (including a spare complete bolt and op rod) and 25 spare magazines, I could now buy TWO examples of the PTR91 rifle (a HK 91 clone), along with a nearly complete spare G3 parts set, and more than 150 extra magazines! So anyone who is on a budget is advised to instead buy an HK clone.



Letter Re: Light Blocking Suggestions for Windows

Hello Jim,
I’ve been following the window light blocking conversation with interest. The prospect of spending money and time for highly specialized fabrics or felts, for a highly specialized purpose, which may or may not be a future necessity, just doesn’t feel affordable or practical to me. In comparison, I believe my simple, flexible, and inexpensive alternative approach has much to offer.

I’ve been stocking up on large Polar Fleece blankets, as a multi- purpose basic material, from my local thrift store, where I can often find a queen or king size for around $10. Two or three folded layers will block out any light as necessary. The fabric can also be used for clothing, for insulation, for padding, and for so much more. I prefer to think in terms of basic “building block” materials that can serve many functions, and this is one good example.

Keep up the great work! – J.S.

JWR Replies: Regardless of your solution, be sure to check your completed handiwork from outside your house on a dark night, first with your naked eye, and then with a starlight scope. Any small remaining light leaks (typically seen around the edges) can be remedied with black gaffer’s tape.





Odds ‘n Sods:

Alan H. sent the link to this fascinating piece on the human eye’s natural night vision: The Red Myth.

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Cyber attack in the American Redoubt: Credit Card Machines Shut Down At Some Local Stores Following Cyber Attack Aimed At Stealing Vital Information

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Another one Mikey Bloomberg’s group of “crime fighting” mayors gets busted: Anti-Gun Group Mayor Arrested for DUI, Attacking Clock. These arrests happen with such great regularity that we can only wonder about the sincerity of these statist do-gooders.

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P.M. mentioned that the thought-provoking (albeit slow-paced and at times verging on soap opera melodramatic) 1987 television miniseries Amerika has been posted to YouTube.

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G.G. suggested: 13 Skills Your Grandparents Had That You Don’t

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New Scope Will Add Night Vision to Android or iPhone. (Thanks to B.B. for the link.)



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

"Wars may be fought with weapons, but they are won by men. It is the spirit of men who follow and of the man who leads that gains the victory." – General George S. Patton Jr.



Notes from JWR:

November 26th is the birthday of both gun inventor Eugene Reising (born 1884, died February 21, 1967) and the late Barton Biggs (born, 1932, died July 14, 2012.) Biggs was a money manager known for his pro-preparedness stance.

Today we present another entry for Round 49 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $8,500+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225, and I.) VPN tunnel, DigitalSafe and private e-mail annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $265.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 23 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is more than a $210 value, and G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., F.) A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises , and G.) A Nesco / American Harvest Gardenmaster Dehydrator with an extra set of trays, and the book The Dehydrator Bible, from Mayflower Trading. (A $210 value.)

Round 49 ends on November 30th, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



We, Who are Left Behind, by M.D.L.

I’ve seen many articles and entries on how to deal with various forms of property, power and safety issues in a TEOTWAWKI situation, as well as the proper means of dealing with disease and the disposal of bodies. But I have seen precious little on the psychology of being the survivor of those losses.  The horrible events in the Philippines have led me to address this.

Let me state here and now that I do not have the type of education that would make me “qualified” to address this.  Just experience.  I must also state that I have never lost “everything” in the conventional sense of the word; as most people equate that to a house, a car etc.

Over the course of my life though I grew up poor I had a home and on most nights, food.  As an adult I have all of the “things” I feel are necessary for a decent lifestyle.  But those things are just things, and transient by their nature.  I didn’t know what true happiness was until I became a father.  That was when I learned what was truly important.  Life was good.

I had seven years of true happiness before I learned what it meant to lose “everything”.  One month after his birthday, my only child (at the time) suddenly died.  One minute he was fine, the next I was performing CPR and praying with all I had to pray with that The Almighty take me in exchange.  My prayers went unanswered and my efforts failed.  My seven-year-old child died in my arms.

My world ended that night.  My life… My reason for being… Gone in an instant.  My late night promises to him when he woke up afraid… that while I lived no harm would come to him, were broken.  I failed in every sense of the word.

In the months to follow I found that food was irrelevant, physical pain had no effect on me, people could come and go through my home unnoticed.  My wife, my wonderful and patient wife, could do nothing to break me out of my self-imposed prison.  A jail to which I was sentenced by the judge and jury in my soul where I was guilty of killing my son by way of failing to save him.

Then the drinking began. 

Every time I closed my eyes I saw the change in his pupils at the moment where life left his body.  I still see it sometimes. But at the time I wasn’t as strong as I am now, and so I turned to the vice of so many before me.  I found sleep in a bottle and comfort in a glass.  I never saw that I was in danger of losing my wife and friends.

My will to live was non-existent.  Many times, during heavy storms I would take off my seatbelt and drive at high speeds along the freeway.  Once I was in a grocery store that was being robbed and I tried everything I could to provoke the gunman so he might shoot me.  He thought I was insane and fled.  I look back and think of how many people I could have harmed through my selfishness and pray for forgiveness.

But that is what losing “everything” can do to a person.  I was ill equipped to handle that kind of loss.  Truth be told I don’t know that I can survive it again, heaven forbid.  But the looming specter of such an event is always at my back.  Prompting me to be in a constant state of alertness regarding my family.  It’s the kind of pressure that will break a weaker man, as it had done to me.

I lived in a state of mere existence for a couple of years.  Waking up with a headache and the ever-present physical sensation of hopelessness.  Not caring enough to iron my clothes or even bathe most days, I’d go through the motions of living for eight hours plus commute, and then I’d return to my living death.  It wasn’t until I tried to end my life that I was re-awakened.  I won’t bore you with the details.

My return to humanity was difficult.  I had developed the mentality of a prisoner in a death camp.  I had accepted my defeat and done nothing to maintain my humanity.  I had lost my pride, my will and my hope. I had even come to embrace my prison since it was a known and predictable situation.  I assure you that until you have experienced a defeat of the soul, that you have not truly experienced defeat.

How did I snap back?  What did I do that reversed my course? 

Well… I must admit that Divine Intervention was likely the major reason.  I couldn’t have gotten through those early years unscathed without the Lord’s hand.  It was my wife that led me to that realization.  She also led me back to the Lord, and to my salvation, in more ways than one.

I have learned a few things on my journey.  I have learned that first and foremost, God is great.  That statement confuses many people.  They ask me, “How can you believe in God after your son died like that?” to which I reply “God didn’t kill my son, his illness did.” 

I have also learned that you need to be open to healing.  My pastor said just this past Sunday: “You know all of those people sitting in Church, trying to get a tan from the Light of The Lord?  Well, God isn’t in church with them.  He’s over there, in the darkness, trying help… because that’s where God does his best work…”

“In the blackest darkness, where even the smallest light can shine like a beacon… the light of the lord must be truly piercing.  We just have to learn that when we’re down and in the fetal position with our arms wrapped around our head, and life is kicking the heck out of us… that we have to unclench our eyes and get up.  We can’t see the light if we’re closed off in duck and cover mode.”

That last part is the message, I think.  Get up and look into the eyes of your loss.  Don’t let it throw you down and kick you into oblivion.  People are depending on you.  Even if they’re not nearby you will be needed.  Have the tools at hand to fight the darkness off.  I don’t know what tool I could have had to help me fight off my hopelessness at that time, but I know that there is little that can shake me now. 

When I feel weak I whittle, I read, I do push-ups, I cook and to my wife’s severe dismay I even sing.  All the while I take the problem before me and mentally spin it around so I can see it from many angles.  I never, ever just “do something”.  I’ve learned that sometimes doing nothing is the best thing to be done.  Answers may become apparent as a situation plays out.  Just be ready to provide solutions by maintain a variety of skills.

Mostly though, I learned to fight back.  I think that applies in a very practical sense to the preparedness mentality.  Not fighting in the physical life-or-death combat sense, but in combat of the spirit and soul.  I started a non-profit to raise money for research into my son’s illness.  I never feel as happy as when I am handing a check to the research team.  It’s my way of saying to the murderer behind the microscope “I’m coming for you!”

I don’t know what, if anything, you may take from this.  I felt compelled to write this because the loss of life in the Philippines has struck a chord in my heart.  I remember all too well how some of those people are feeling.  I understand hopelessness.  But I look back at my path and I see a direct line to where I now stand, and in so seeing I urge you:

Never give up.

The greater defeat is in the surrender, not in the loss.  I learned that the hard way.

Be vigilant, my friends.

Oh… I almost forgot:  If you say the Lord’s Prayer, keep in mind that when you say, “Thy will be done on Earth, as it is in Heaven.” You had better mean it.  He’s taking you at your word.



Letter Re: A Homemade Well-Bailing Bucket, by Bill C.

Sir,
This device allows for the baling of water from a standard “drilled and cased” domestic water well in the event of a power outage.  The only drawback is that the “guts” of the well system must first be removed from the well – this includes pump, pipe, cable, wiring, etc.
Materials List

  1. Section of solid PVC pipe sized for the well casing diameter – probably 3-inch inside diameter will fit most water wells.  A 30-inch section of 3-inch pipe will hold about a gallon of water.
  2. End cap – use a flat test cap rather than the usual convex permanent cap.
  3. PVC primer and glue – to affix the end cap to the pipe section.
  4. Plumber’s gasket – this is a rubber sheet, typically red in color, and available as 6-inch squares found in the plumbing aisle in a home improvement / hardware store.
  5. Long bolt and locknut – this is placed through the pipe section at the top to secure a d-ring and rope.  Length needs to be appropriate for the pipe diameter.  Stainless steel is preferred.
  6. Short bolt, fender washer, and locknut – this is for assembling the gasket and end cap.  A 1-inch long ¼-20 bolt, wide washer, and locknut is typical.  Stainless steel is preferred.
  7. D-link – placed on the top long bolt and to secure the rope.  ¾-inch or 1-inch size is typical.
  8. Rope or cord – attached to the D-link for lowering the bucket into the well.  Nylon or poly braid in 100-foot lengths is typical.

Tools Needed

  1. Drill and bit – holes in the pipe for top long bolt and holes in the end cap and gasket.  Bit size is determined by hole size that must be large enough to accommodate the bolts (or rope).
  2. Screwdriver or wrench – determined by the bolt head configurations.
  3. Pliers or wrench – because locknuts are used.
  4. Scissors – to cut the plumber’s gasket

Assembly Instructions

  1. Option 1 – drill holes through one end of the pipe and install the long top bolt and nut.  This is used with the D-link and rope.  Make sure the bolt head and locknut still have clearance on the inside of the well casing.  Option 2 – drill holes and use rope only without a bolt, nut, and D-link.
  2. Cut a round piece from the plumber’s gasket to fit the inside diameter of the pipe section.  Diameter of round gasket should be about a ¼-inch less than the pipe’s inside diameter.  The end cap can serve as a template.
  3. Drill a hole in the center of the round gasket to accommodate the short bolt.  Drill a hole in the center of the end cap for the short bolt.  Also drill eight holes around the outside edge of the end cap – these are the water infiltration holes.
  4. Place the round gasket atop the inside surface of the end cap.  From the other side, insert the short bolt through the end cap center hole and through the round gasket hole.  Place washer over the bolt against the gasket and secure with the locknut.  Do not over-tighten the locknut.
  5. Prime and glue the end cap assembly on the bottom end of the pipe section.  Allow to dry.

Testing Instructions
Once the end cap glue is dried and cured, then the performance of the well bucket can be tested.  Fill a sink, tub, or other vessel with water.  Lower the well bucket into the water and water should flow into the device through the holes in the bottom end cap.  As the well bucket is raised, the weight of the water should press down upon the gasket and keep the water from leaking out.  It may not be a water-tight seal, but it should be adequate to bale water from the well casing.

Well Baling Instructions

  1. If the top bolt and D-link option was used, attach the rope to the D-link at the top of the well bucket.  Make sure the bitter end of the rope is secured to a stable tie-off point.  If only rope is used, then thread the rope through the drilled holes and secure the rope to the top of the well bucket.  Tie-off the bitter end of the rope to a stable point.
  2. Lower the well bucket into the well casing and submerge in the column of water in the well casing.  Allow water to fill the well bucket.  Raise the filled well bucket out of the well casing and pour contents into a storage vessel.  Repeat as desired.

Notes and Comments

  1. Water weighs about 8.3 pounds per gallon (think of a gallon jug of milk from the grocery store).
  2. A 30-inch long, 3-inch diameter well bucket will hold almost one gallon.  Longer or wider well buckets will hold more water.
  3. For those concerned with volumetric mathematics, here are some data points:
    1. Bucket volume equation is Pi times pipe radius squared (inches) times pipe length.
      Pi = 3.1416.  This volume equation yields cubic inches of water.
    2. To convert cubic inches to gallons, divide cubic inches by 231 to derive gallons.
      With the 30-inch pipe, 3-inch diameter example, the equation is:
      3.1416 x 1.52 x 30 = 212 cubic inches = 0.92 gallons = 117 ounces
  4. As an aside, the volume equation can also be used to calculate the storage capacity of your well bore hole.  (I have a very deep well that is low yielding in gallons per minute but there is a large storage capacity volume due to the drill depth – perhaps some piece of mind.)

Don’t be over-zealous in making a larger or longer well bucket.  Water is heavy and baling out of the well head is ergonomically challenging.  A repeated vertical rope-pulling  lift of even 50 feet with only a ten-pound load (one gallon plus bucket) will prove to be a strenuous workout.

JWR Adds: A commercially-made foot valve (available at your local plumbing supply store) is usually much more efficient and reliable than a home-made one, but YMMV.



Letter Re: Pat’s Product Review – EnGarde Hard Body Armor

James,
I love the SurvivalBlog site and love the product reviews. They are always very helpful. Regarding Pat’s recent product review on EnGarde Hard Body Armor, I thought I would help you and Pat on the BUY AMERICAN front, and recommend Infidel Body Armor, which is made right here in the USA. (In Texas.)
 
The Infidel armor sues the same AR-500 steel panels.  Great carriers, and great add-ons. I bought one 8 months ago and I love it! I’m going to buy some more. Check out their video tests of the panels under repeated fire. That is what sold me on them.
 
Keep the faith, – Jeff N. in West Virginia

JWR Replies: Thanks for that suggestion. We too prefer American-made products, but we also run un-biased reviews of imported products, for the sake of fairness. Pat has already posted one favorable review of Infidel Body Armor, and he has one more that is being readied another review about the latest soft body armor from the same company.