Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“True, you still have butch T-shirts – ‘Don’t Tread On Me,’ ‘These Colors Don’t Run’ … In my own state, where the Democrats ran the board on Election Night, the ‘Live Free Or Die’ license plates look very nice when you see them all lined up in the parking lot of the Social Security office. But, in their view of the state and its largesse, there’s nothing very exceptional about Americans, except that they’re the last to get with the program…” – Mark Steyn



Notes from JWR:

For just today (12/12/12) Camping Survival is giving away a free 50-foot hank of paracord with each order.

Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Your Ultimate Survival Binder, by Mia M.

  Most of us are aware that the world is full of “WHAT Ifs.”
  “What if… my house catches fire, and I have to get out quickly?”
  “What if… my purse or wallet is stolen?”
  “What if… my family is separated, and I need help finding them?”
 
One of the most useful items in a well-prepared survivalist’s inventory can help in almost any disaster scenario… and is simple and inexpensive to acquire. We call ours the “Bug-Out Binder,” but you can give yours any name you choose. The best part of an Emergency Binder is that it is completely customizable, and easy to assemble.
 
  We started out by purchasing the following items:
1. A ziploc, cloth-covered, three ring binder. Ours has four interior files, an interior pocket, several exterior pockets and pouches, and a “headphone access” slit. We bought our binder for $13.00 at a popular department store, but prices range from $9-$20.

2. Two packs of 8-count tabbed dividers (These came from the local dollar store). You may need more, or less, depending on how many sections you want to include.

3. Two three-packs of waterproof, zip seal document covers (These also came from the local dollar store).

4. A pack of the binder inserts that hold baseball cards (you will probably only use a couple).

5. A printer, paper, and a hole-punch. Alternatively, you can use notebook paper, if you are willing to do your note taking by hand.

  Once you have gathered the necessary items, you are ready to start putting your binder together.
  Step one: Decide, on a piece of notepaper, what categories you wish to use to organize your binder. Make your list. Afterwards, reread it. You may find that some of your categories can be put together. Others may be too expansive, and you might want to separate those into individual sections. Underneath each category, you may wish to jot notes on the types of subjects each category may cover.
  As an example, here are the sections we chose to include in our binder, with examples of the contents of each one:
  The first section is dedicated to our home files.

1. PRIORITY-
Emergency contact numbers (including work, school, neighbors, poison control, gas leak hotline, power outage hotline, and so on)
Family emergency plans
Shut-off instructions for utilities
Operating/maintenance directions for well pump, generator, back-up heaters and oil lamps, etc.
Wallet contents, with bank and insurance information and contact numbers

2. STOCKED FOOD-
Inventories for pantry, freezers, icehouse/root cellar, and food stockrooms (with exp. dates)
Shelf life/Expiration chart for food items
Dietary guidelines
Recipes/Menu
Shopping list

3. STOCKED NONFOOD-
Inventory of first aid supplies, by location (with expiration dates of medicines)
Inventory of hygiene supplies
Inventory of firearms and ammo, cleaning supplies, and repair supplies
Inventory of tools and gear, by location
Contents lists for EDC, BOBs, INCH bags, etc.
Shopping list

4. GARDEN-
Planting and harvesting charts
Propagation and seed collection/storage
Preservation guidelines (canning, freezing, drying/dehydrating, etc.)
Yield guides and conversion charts

5. HERBS-
Planting and harvesting charts
Propagation and seed collection/storage
Preservation (drying/dehydrating, oils, freezing, etc.)
Culinary/medical/personal care usages, dosages, indications
Recipes for teas, tisanes, salves, etc.

6. POULTRY/LIVESTOCK-
(sorted by type of animal)
Care guides… feeding, breeding, shelter, etc.
Recognizing/treating injuries and ailments
Charts for each animal (birth date, health history, breeding record, date and cause of death OR slaughter date and yield)

7. HOME-
Maps of each room, indicating measurements of room, windows, doors… location of outlets/plugs/vents… fabric and paint swatches
Maintenance/repair records
Fuse/Circuit Breaker box chart
Cleaning supply inventory
List of various info (like the bag and belt sizes for the vacuum, household chore lists…daily, weekly, monthly, and seasonal/annual, etc.)
Directions for completing common housecleaning chores, without electricity/running water
Cleaning supply recipes
Stain removal guide
Inventory list of all valuables, with serial numbers, etc.

8. VEHICLE-
Maintenance records
Info on replacement parts (bulb sizes, tire sizes, etc.)
Fuse chart
Auto emergency kit inventory, and expiration dates of any perishable items

The second section is more "survival-oriented." It includes:
1. FIRST AID-
First aid guide (with emergency pages on neon paper)
Dental guide

2. SHELTER-
Several shelter types
"Camping furniture" instructions

3. WATER-
Collecting
Purifying and filtering
Storing/transporting

4. FIRE-
Firestarting (several methods)
Burn index of wood types
Tinder chart

5. HUNTING/TRAPPING-
Tracking
Traps and snares
Processing meat
Preserving meat
Tanning hides/fur
Other uses for body parts (bones, organs, etc.)

6. FISHING-
Bait suggestions and recipes
Water temperature chart for various fish
Fishing knots
Making flies/lures
Line fishing tips
Fly fishing tips
Other fishing tips (nets, fish traps, etc.)
Cleaning and preserving fish

7. FORAGING-
Plant identification and usage guide
Mushroom identification guide
Tree identification and usage guide

8. NAVIGATION-
Compass and map
Celestial
Other

9. WEATHER-
Cloud reading
Weather prediction guide
Cold weather survival
Hot weather survival
Storm/flood survival

10. CORDAGE AND KNOTS
Tensile chart
Making cordage
Tying knots and lashes

11. CRAFTING
Weaving (basketry, etc.)
Pottery
Woodcraft
Blacksmithing/metallurgy
Clothing patterns, sewing stitches
Leathercrafting
Crochet stitch guide

12. TOOLS AND WEAPONS-
Firearm manuals
Making primitive tools
Ax, knife, archery, and sling manuals

13. COOKING-
Constructing ovens, stoves, etc.
Recipes

14. SIGNALS/SIGNS-
Glossaries of codes, signals, etc. (Morse, phonetic alphabets, and such)
Trailblazing

15. HYGIENE-
Soapmaking and saponin chart
Basic hygiene (latrines, bathing/showers, dishwashing, laundry, etc.)
Recipes for toothpaste, deodorant, shampoo, lotion, etc.
Lice treatment
Communicable disease prevention
Trash and sewage disposal
Burial/cremation

16. SELF-DEFENSE-
Evasion techniques
Hand-to-hand combat
Caching

  Some of these categories may not be practical for your particular plans. Eliminate those, or replace them with topics that suit you and your lifestyle better. Some suggestions might be Pets (Pet supply inventory, pet care routines, pet food recipes, first aid and medicine, etc.), Childcare (Activity ideas, baby food recipes, infant supply inventory, home schooling curriculum outlines), Religious (favorite Bible verses, prayer journal), Sewing (patterns, fabric charts, techniques), Internet (favorite web sites, user names and passwords, Microsoft and Windows certificate numbers), or anything else you find suitable.

Step two: Label each of your dividers, according to the topics you want to include (and in the order you wish to include them).

Step three: Now, it’s time to compile your information.
  For the home sections, this will include taking inventory of supplies, measuring rooms, noting what each of the circuits in your house and vehicle fuse boxes operates, copying contact numbers, listing family emergency plans, documenting the numbers of bank accounts and insurance policies (as well as contact numbers, in case the cards are stolen or a claim needs to be filed), writing down the locations of utility shutoffs (and how to shut each off),documenting the identifying information for household valuables (for instance, the Makes, models, and serial numbers for electronic goods… plus the date of purchase, store, and cost), guidelines for household chores, and so forth.
  You may want to print off copies of  food storage guideline pages, stain charts, and so forth, to finish this section of the binder.

Step four: For the “survival section,” remember that most articles and books on these subjects contain information you may already know, or that is repetitive of other articles, or paragraphs that are better placed in a separate category. If you include all of the material you compile from the wealth of pdfs, online pages, or books out there, you will have a mess. It will be disorganized, and far too bulky. Your mission, here, is to sort through it all and pull out the most important details for your notes. Use your word processing program, and collect these notes (and any relevant diagrams or illustrations). Keep your notes concise, but helpful. When you are satisfied with your material, print it out and include it in your notebook in the appropriate section.

Step five: Print a current photo for each family member, trimmed or sized to fit into the baseball card page’s slots. On the back of each, list the medical and identifying information for that family member. Birthdate, height, weight, hair and eye color, identifying marks, piercings or tattoos, allergies, medical conditions and current medications, blood type, shot records, dates of illnesses/hospitalizations, etc. may seem like a chore to document, but it could make all the difference in the event that one of your family members is missing, or injured in an accident.
  Put each photo into a slot of the baseball card sheet, and insert this in the front of the binder.

Step six: Separate your important documents into the waterproof document holders. Since we have four folders, we divided ours in the following manner-
   FILE ONE… LEGAL
        Family (marriage certificates, divorce records, custody and child support papers, protection orders, current grade cards and school schedules, diplomas, military discharge/I.D.s, etc.)
        Property (Deeds/leases, vehicle titles, and so forth)
  FILE TWO… FINANCIAL
        W2’s, copy of prior year’s tax form, banking account information, retirement/pension information, and other related papers.
  FILE THREE…MEDICAL
         Health (For each member, I included shots records, eye prescriptions, dental records, copies of current prescriptions (if any), and health insurance information)
         Death (information on organ donation wishes, Living Will, Last Will and Testament, life insurance information, letters I’ve written to each family member, etc.)
  FILE FOUR… IDENTITY
       Social security cards, birth certificates, passports
  Again, customize your folders in a manner that suits you.

 Step seven: If you wish, download your favorite files in their entirety to a disk or flash drive. You can do the same thing for favorite movies, books, photographs, pictures of the items in your home inventory list, computer games, music, or anything else you’d like to preserve. Jot the contents of each media storage item on an index card or print the list out, and store these in your binder. Many flash drives, today, come with a keychain attachment which you can attach to one of the concealed key rings, in these binders. Alternatively, you can store the flash drives or disks in a binder pocket, and use the key ring for duplicate keys to your home, car, business, safe, etc.

Step eight: Complete your binder, by adding whatever additional items you desire. You can tuck maps into the back interior pocket. The pouch with the headphone slot can store an E-reader and charger. Another pouch (or, if you have the space, a pencil case made for a binder) can store items like a multitool, firestarter/lighter, compass, first aid items, a mini fishing kit, or anything else you wish to store!

Step nine: A lot of people express concern, at having this much security information in one place. They are justified in their concerns. Consider a safe spot where you can keep your finished binder. It should be secure from theft or snooping eyes, but it should also be easily accessible to other family members. A fireproof safe is an expensive, but excellent, solution. Alternatively, you might want to keep your binder with your Bug-Out Bags. Whatever you decide, make sure that it is easy to grab (or retrieve) in the event a sudden evacuation is needed, but that it is also protected from theft.

Step ten: Update your binder, regularly. Update inventories, replace family photos, add to medical histories, add new notes, reorganize as desired… this is your binder. Practice your family emergency plans, and take notes on what worked and didn’t. You can use these notes to reformat your plan, for the next practice run. Practice the skills, in your survival notes. If something you took notes on doesn’t work, get rid of it! If something works well, highlight it or add a foil star sticker beside it. If you make changes or adaptations, write them down! Before you know it, you will have… the Ultimate Emergency Binder.



Letter Re: Making Our Bug Out Bags Work: Shaving Weight

James,
First, thanks for the great blog.  I wanted to take a minute and let the readers know of a great way to test what it is like to be stressed and carry a load of 40 plus pounds for an extended period of time.  Last weekend I participated in a GoRuck Challenge.  The premise is based on Special Forces type training where participants (max of 30 per event) act as a team to accomplish any task that the cadre gives them.  There are a few requirements, the most notable being that each person 150 lbs or more must cary six bricks, 149 or less four bricks, in a backpack for the entire event.  This challenge is not for the faint of heart or for those that are new to exercise.  My total pack weight was 47 lbs dry at the start.  After many a trips into the ocean and rolling around in the sand, pack weight got to be about 55 lbs.  For those who plan on bugging out, being under stress, acting covert, and taking care of others, this is the ultimate test run you could have.  It goes way beyond putting on your pack and going on a hike.  Think a crossfit challenge combined with a marathon, while wearing a weighted pack.  The final stats for my event were 14.5 hours long (start time was 10 pm, finish 12:30 pm following day) covering 24 miles.  Each event is different and is based on the cadres experience so what we did will be irrelevant.  I will say that after nine months of intense training and diet, I was prepared physically for the challenge.  Mentally I was pushed to my limit.  I drank three gallons of water and lost eight pounds (total kCal expended was 25,000 to 30,000).  If someone wants to know what there body and mind will do in a stressful bug out situation this is the event.  Though six bricks is a minimum, you could add more if you want to get it to the weight of you bug out bag.  It is also a great way to test gear and know what your caloric and water requirements will be to get to your final destination.  The only way you could get this level of experience would be to join the military and do the real thing.  I must warn anyone who takes on one of these challenges, that it is addicting, and you will want to do more!! 

Thanks for your dedications to helping others prepare!  May God bless your efforts and those that seek to be self-reliant. – Scott L.



Two Letters Re: How to Thwart Nigerian Scammers: Demand Proof of Life

James, 
Another variation to watch out for is when the scammer asks you to pay using an escrow account supposedly managed by Amazon or eBay.
 
A too good to be true add is found, you respond, the scammer/seller tells you he sells using an eBay escrow account. The merchandise will ship to you after you send a check to Escrow. The scammer directs you to a link sent in the scammers/sellers email that appears to be an eBay site.
 
The scammer creates the illusion of security using a brand like eBay with some official looking legal contract showing how you are in control of the escrow and the funds will only be released once you get the merchandise and are happy with the transaction.

 
The reality is once the money is in the escrow account, everything disappears and you never see your merchandise. eBay will tell you they don’t operate an escrow service and your options to recover your money are slim to none. 

 
Your basic rules of thumb, poor sentence structure, punctuation, spelling and vaporware merchandise are all tell-tale signs.  When in doubt, push to see the merchandise live somehow. The scammer will redirect you back to the scam or ignore you since you are not taking the bait. Keep up the good work!
 
Regards, – Mark in Michigan

 

James,
I wanted to write and give your readers another word of caution regarding Nigerian scammers; my experience involves a much more sophisticated expression of the scam than is normal.

I had placed an ad in Craigslist to sell some Morgan silver dollars; I was emailed by an out of state party who inquired as to whether I would be willing to ship them. Normally this would be odd for a Craigslist ad, but I’d dealt with this several times legitimately with regards to metals trades so it didn’t strike me as that out of the ordinary. He offered to send a check, which at the time I didn’t mind (now I always require the money to be wired). When the check arrived it was for an amount less than we had agreed on; he told me to go ahead and deposit it and he would send me another check. I deposited the check and waited.

Suspicious about a few things (the email misspellings, the erroneous check amount) I emailed him again and insisted that we speak on the phone. After a little bit of back and forth (he claimed he was deaf) he agreed to let me speak with his lawyer. Soon after an American called from a California area code and assured me everything was ok. This certainly helped set my mind at ease.

During this time my bank (USAA) had confirmed deposit of the check and credited my checking account with the funds. I looked up the depository agreement and found that USAA promised that once funds were in the account for two business days it was a confirmed transfer and the check was good. I’m a bit more cautious, so I waited four business days and then called and spoke with a representative; he looked into the account and confirmed that the funds had transferred from the other bank and that the check had proven legitimate. Now having waited double the amount required by the depository agreement and confirmed from a bank representative that the first check was good and the second check (which had arrived and now been in the account for two business days) was showing good as well; having spoken with an American on the phone who confirmed it was good; I sent the coins.

The next business day USAA notified me that the checks had bounced and withdrew all of the deposited funds from my account; adding insult to injury they tacked on on a small penalty for having deposited fake checks (as if I did it on purpose). Outraged, I spent every business day for the next two weeks on the phone with USAA, demanding that they return the money they had confirmed was in my account; bounced checks were one thing, but once I’d been informed both in writing and in conversation that the money was in my account I expected my bank to stand behind what they had told me. After speaking with two separate resolution managers who robotically repeated: “we don’t cover bounced checks” I finally quit calling.

In the meantime I was contacted by the scammer who offered my coins back if I joined him in his scheme. In an attempt to discover any information that might lead me (and thereby the police) to him, I played along as if I were interested. He outlined his nefarious plan: he scammed people in the United States and then recruited them to actually mail the checks (so they came from the US) and do much of the emailing (making the English more believable) and occasionally make phone calls for him (e.g., the fellow who called me); in exchange for their participation he offered them a scam commission and they slowly “earned” back the money that had been stolen from them as they stole from others. All of this information was obtained via internet chat; I took screen shots of all of it as it commenced. I was also able to obtain a list of the next 25 people he planned to scam, along with their email and mailing addresses.

As I played dumb and required more information I was able to glean the contact information for two of his minions and the name and ID information of another. I put together all of the information I had gathered and made an appointment at the nearest FBI station (the police report I had filed with the local police department had been ignored). When I met with the agent I explained the situation and handed over all of the information, highlighting the contact information for the Americans who had actively participated in scamming me. After thumbing through the information, he looked me in the eye and said: “Since you’re in uniform, I’ll shoot straight with you” (I’m an Air Force officer). “You’ve given us everything we need to catch at least a couple of these fellows. However, it’s your choice,” he continued, “I can tell you I’m going to look into it, walk in the back, file it, and never think about it again, or I can hand it back to you and you can walk out the door with it.” Flabbergasted, I asked for an explanation. He replied: “Our fraud department is so busy that we don’t even look at fraud cases that involve less than $10 million at stake. Your case, as much work as you’ve done on it, will never be examined.” I attempted to explain that with as many folks as this one fellow had scammed it probably totaled $10 million, but he just shook his head and explained it had to happen in a single instance or it wasn’t worth their time. Disgusted, I walked out. My tax dollars pay for the FBI but they’ll never protect me unless I’m worth more than $10 million? In the end, the only effectual change I could make was contacting the 25 people whose information I’d been given and warn them that they were about to be scammed.

Was I foolish? In hindsight, yes. I now take extra precautions whenever I’m not dealing face to face. However, I think it comes down to the old saying: “Fool me once, shame on me…” I trusted my bank to interact on my behalf in the banking system and was only told after the fact (by one of the resolution managers I was eventually elevated to) that banks reserve the right to withdraw funds from their depositors account for the life of the account; it doesn’t matter how much time has passed. I don’t know if this is true or not, but two months after all of this went down I received an email from USAA notifying me that the depository agreement for all checking accounts had changed; when I looked at the list of changes, every single paragraph I had cited for how USAA had failed to hold up their end of the agreement had been adjusted. As far as banks go, USAA is among the best I’ve dealt with, but never doubt that they’ll act in their best interest and leave the customer out to dry if that needs to happen.

As far as Nigerian scams go, they can get pretty sophisticated. Once I start dealing with Americans who know how to exploit at least some of the ins and outs of our banking system and will do the calling and emailing themselves, then most of the common rules of thumb for avoiding these types of scams go out the window.

Lessons learned:
– Deal face to face whenever possible. Accept only cash in small, worn bills. Few of us are intimately familiar with what crisp, brand new bills feel like and could be easily fooled by counterfeits. As the dollar inflates and bills began to get newer and less valuable, this is an added incentive to trade using “junk” silver – this is easily verifiable with a value that’s easily discernible. Avoid larger denominations of metal; even silver rounds can be faked relatively easily.
– If buying long-distance, ask for proof of life like JWR suggested. However, this still doesn’t guarantee they’ll send the item once they receive your cash; try to deal only with businesses or dealers that have a legitimate storefront presence and a vested interest in not cheating you. If you know someone in the local area ask them to pick up and ship the item for you; that’s putting a face-to-face presence in the mix.
– If selling long-distance, only accept cash via wire (think Western Union). Only ship items once you have literal cash in hand.

Consider this a plug for a libertarian mindset: banks may treat you great until they have to put their own money on the line to back up their word. Police may seem great until they’re too busy to help you out. The FBI is great in theory, but don’t trust your welfare to a federal agency. Be careful out there. – J.B.



Economics and Investing:

Peter Schiff: Many Other Cliffs Await the US Economy

Jim W. suggested this from Alasdair MacLeod: Short squeeze ahead? Gold futures market heading for crisis.

Yishai sent this:Insane: Liberals Contemplate $1 Trillion Platinum Coin to “Solve” Debt Limit Issue

R.B.S. sent this from Oregon: Overdue Portland sewer bills to become property tax bills

The World’s Strangest Currencies

Items from The Economatrix:

The Straw That Breaks The Euro’s Back:  Euro Crash Imminent?

Amid “Cliff” Stalemate, Main Street Deteriorates

Triple-digit Recession, AAA Loss Loom For UK



Odds ‘n Sods:

There Are Now Approximately 3 Million Preppers In The United States, Why Are They Hated So Much?

   o o o

Reader Jordan B. sent: US intelligence study sees possible fight ahead over water, food

   o o o

Where building codes collide with common sense: Watauga County ‘mountain man’ fighting to keep his nature camp open. (Thanks to James S. for the link.)

   o o o

Reader Rodger E. mentioned a new aluminum Side Saddle shell holder is available for Mossberg 500 and 590 owners. They cleverly use a Picatinny-style rail, for mounting.

   o o o

12 Days Till Doomsday: 9 Tips To Help You Transition From Pre to Post-Apocalypse Should the Prophesy of the Mayan Calendar Prove True. (Includes quotes from Lisa Bedford (of The Survival Mom) and JWR.





Notes from JWR:

Update: A reader near Fort Sill, Oklahoma should jump on this big lot: Auction for 21 Pallets of Razor Wire. This variety of wire is more expensive (and effective) than traditional concertina wire. The auction ends at 5 p.m. EST on December 12, 2012.

Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Survival Gear Packing 101, by Jim G.

I’ve been reading a lot lately about types of bags and the many different options for BOBs that are out there. A staple of all prep web sites is the gear list and there is no shortage of suggestions on what you should have with you. What I’m not seeing is how to stow your gear. I’m not talking about the actual packing of your bag. I’ve actually seen an article or two about this, tips like keeping the heavy items low and close to your back, use of ditty bags, or packing your rucksack in a columnar system. What I’m talking about is an overall strategy of where on your person, and where in your transport system certain items should go.

Most military types will be familiar with the information I’m about to present, especially if they were in any way involved in long range patrolling techniques. Basically we’re looking at three tiered system. You’ll divide your gear into three parts and carry it either on your person, on your belt, or in your rucksack.

On Your Person
Working outwards from the body we’ll look first at what you should have on your person. Think of this as your wilderness everyday carry (EDC). A good way to determine what should be on your person is to think the worst. Think about what you’d need if for what-ever reason you had to bail with just the clothes on your back. Say you’re caught in an ambush and had to drop your ruck and cut and run, or some nasties raid your camp and again you have to run for it. It could be something as innocent as losing your pack. I recall being on a canoe trip with friends. We ran a fairly serious set of rapids and one of the canoes went over. Not serious, but when we recovered everything a rucksack was missing, the tether that had secured it to the canoe dangling free and empty. We bumped around for the better part of an afternoon, getting wet and taking chances in the fast water but never did find the ruck or any of the gear that was in it.

Very important items, like a compass or a Swiss Army knife can go on lanyard around your neck, making them even more secure. Beware the Pain In The A** (PITA) factor. A full-sized Silva compass or a large multi tool hanging around your neck and getting in the way every time you bend over or move around will quickly become a PITA. It gets taken off and stowed elsewhere. Murphy’s Law seems to be ever present in these situations and that means that when the SHTF your compass or pocket knife is not where it normally is. It may seem like a good idea to keep some items “next to skin” but keep them small. I have a little plastic case on a lanyard, you’ll see folks who work in controlled access areas with their passes in them, in it I carry my ID card, drivers licence, and a credit card. You could also fold and squeeze in a good chunk of cash, especially here in Canada with our new ultra thin polymer bank notes. On the lanyard I also have a little pen knife. The entire issue goes under my shirt and is barely noticeable. Another item that you might consider keeping “next to skin” or at least under your basic clothing is a money belt.

We’ve already touched on four basic items that should be on your person, pocket knife, (or multi-tool) compass, cash, and documents. As well you should always have your survival tin well stocked and in a pants pocket or in a small pouch on your belt. There are a plethora of articles written on building a small survival tin and there are commercial versions available. It should be small enough that it can be carried all day and night and be barely noticeable. If it’s too big or cumbersome it may get left elsewhere when it’s really needed. Matches or a lighter should be on your person. This goes without saying for smokers, but it’s usually one of the things I forget and need to go digging in my main ruck when I need to light something. A small flashlight is must, either a small Maglite or a tactical light like a Surefire. While in the military I always tried to have at least some food on me at all times. A chocolate bar, Power Bar or similar snack fits nicely into a shirt pocket and might make all the difference in that first night after you had to bail on your gear. Personal comms, such as a cell phone or Sat phone should also be on your person, though this depends on the coverage available. The situation will dictate, as it does with all gear choices. Choice of clothing should be made with a view to having as many practical pockets as possible. Outdoor gear and military style clothing fit the bill nicely. Belt pouches are fine, however if you have too much stuff on your belt it becomes uncomfortable if you have to sit or lay down, your waist band on your ruck may not sit properly, not to mention it will be difficult to keep your pants up with your belt loaded with kit. Leave the utility belt for Batman. One thing that should always be on your belt is your sheath knife. I’m a bit of a believer in knives so on my person I have my Buck sheath knife, a Spyderco pocket folder, and my little Swiss Army knife around my neck.

On Your Belt
A good sized belt pouch should be next. A regular belt with a large pouch attached would work well, as would a good sized butt pack. This is where you’ll stow gear that you need readily, but without the survival importance of gear you’ll have on your person. A satchel with a shoulder strap works well too. It will swallow up a lot of gear and it doesn’t have to go around your waist. A large metal cup, coffee or tea, creamers, sugars, along with a small solid fuel stove can provide refreshment without digging into your main pack. Spare food, spare batteries, a back-up multi-tool, small water bottle, back-up fire starter, extra ammo, bigger flashlight, signal mirror or panel marker, lots of matches or lighter, water purifier, and a survival blanket are all items that can be considered for this belt pack. Again use the worst case scenario when deciding what to carry here. What if you had to run for your life and that meant ditching your pack? What if you’re foraging or scouting away from your camp and get separated from your pack for an extended time? As a rough rule of thumb your belt kit should be able to sustain you for one full day and night away from your main pack.  Keep the PITA rule in mind also and that if an item is too large or cumbersome it can quickly become a detriment instead of a benefit. Choose your equipment based on your situation and ease of carry.

Weapons and Ammunition
Generally the best possible way of being armed is with a long gun as a primary firearm and a pistol as a back up. This gives the flexibility to respond to all threats, it also gives depth to your personal defence plan. Where these weapons are carried is easy, your long gun and its ammo are part of the intermediate layer, integral to your belt kit. Your hand gun is part of your gear that goes on your person. A little trial and error with holsters, shoulder rigs, or gun belts is necessary to come up with an efficient and comfortable carry for both your primary and secondary weapon. A third layer of firearm protection is tempting, a small derringer type gun or “belly gun” kept under your shirt might alleviate an otherwise hopeless situation. On the other hand be aware of being over gunned. More guns mean more ammunition and the added logistics of carrying different natures. Again the PITA rule bears attending to. Be careful of having too much gear around your waist. A gun belt is good but how will that effect your rucksack carry? How will it ride in conjunction with a belt kit? Questions to consider and find a solution to before the SHTF.

In Your Rucksack
The rucksack is the heart and soul of any load bearing system. It becomes the “mother ship” for all of your gear. It will contain most of your necessities but keep in mind that the ruck may not be with you at all times. If you establish a base camp, and are away hunting, scouting, or foraging the ruck will generally be left behind. There should be nothing in your ruck that you absolutely cannot do with out. You might lose your main shelter, water, and the bulk of your food should you need to ditch the pack, but you should have alternate survival supplies on your belt or on your person.

What you put in your main pack will come under three headings. Food and water, shelter, and environmental clothing. A good water purifier will cut down or eliminate the need to carry a lot of water, allowing more food to be carried. Ten days food is about the max that can be carried without seriously overloading but you’ll need to be frugal and use a strict ration plan. Included with your food is a stove and fuel. You might consider leaving the stove and fuel behind and using fires instead. The downside of this is fire and smoke can give your position away and attract attention while a stove can provide a hot meal or hot drink with out too much of a signature.

Shelter can be a tent or a tarp suitable for building a shelter. This will depend on the ground and the environment. Obviously in more temperate areas a bivvy will suffice, while in colder harsher environments an enclosed tent will probably work better. A bivvy bag can be an alternative if you’re traveling alone and speed and ease of carry is an issue. There is one main disadvantage to this. In bad weather or adverse conditions you can stay put and “ride things out” a lot more comfortably in a tent. A bivvy bag is good for sleeping in but not much else. In a bivvy bag you can’t sit up and have a coffee or read a book while the blizzard rages outside.

Speaking of inclement weather brings up the subject of environmental clothing. Here in Canada, working and living in cold environments is a matter of fact for almost half of the year. You’ll need to allow room in the pack for heavy parkas, wind pants, and insulated boots. The problem here is that you’ll need to move and work in lighter, better vented clothes, while at night or in-active you’ll need serious insulated cold weather gear. Moving or working in your warm gear, and getting overheated and sweat soaked can be disastrous. Environmental clothing can take up a lot of space. Space that might seem better used for food or other niceties, but remember the old adage; “pack light, freeze at night”

Practice using a small sled to haul your gear in the snow. After years of humping big rucksacks I got a small kids sled, lashed my ruck to it and went on an overnighter hauling my gear as opposed to carrying it. The difference was quite pleasant and as long as I was in relatively open ground the pack towed along behind me effortlessly. I did end up jury rigging a set of small poles to replace the tow rope so the sled wouldn’t pass me or run me over on the down hills. It alleviated a lot of the problems we talked about earlier about having too much kit and belts around your waist.

Conclusion
In summary, have a good look at where each item you carry goes. Assess the value of each item and put it where it belongs. “Must haves” go on your person so if you have to bail with the clothes on your back you won’t be without your critical survival gear. “Nice to haves” come next on a belt kit or shoulder bag. These are items that can make a night or nights away from camp bearable weather they’re forced on you by weather, a navigational error, or by the action of hostiles. Lastly “Everything Else” goes in your main pack. It is your main carry and the center piece of any load bearing system. It is also the first thing that gets looted, dropped, lost, left behind, or abandoned. Nothing that is critical to your survival should be in the ruck. Dropping or losing your rucksack will be a serious situation but it should not be the end of the world for a savvy survivalists.



News From The American Redoubt:

Reader T.K., who lives in the Tri-cities [Richland, Pasco and Kennewick] region of Washington wrote to mention that local credit union, HAPO, is ordering in $2,000 in nickels for him with no fee charged. “I’m simply taking $2,000 out of my account with them and they are giving me $2,000 in nickels. It is going to take a week for the order to go through and they asked me to have some kind of bins to put them in but other than that they had no issues with me getting a bulk shipment of nickels. Yet another reason to live in the Redoubt.” [JWR Adds: My bank in the Redoubt has accommodated my many requests for nickels in bulk over the past four years with no ruffled feathers. They have never requested any fees, even though I’ve often asked them to order nickels $1,000 at a time. (Ten $100 cardboard box “bricks” per order.) It is nice living in a place where even your banker doesn’t feel the need to poke his nose into your business.]

   o o o

Montana Courtroom Incident Proves Wild Fire Can Burn Twice. (Thanks to Steven W. for the link.)

   o o o

Boise company’s products kept the (solar) lights on during Hurricane Sandy

   o o o

Preparedness pays off: Snowmobiler survives weekend avalanche near McCall, Idaho

   o o o

Reader A.B. wrote to mention that there is a group of cloistered Carmelite brothers who are building a classic gothic European monastery in Wyoming.  They get a significant amount of the revenue from selling coffee beans that they roast.  You can read about them on the Charles Carroll Society web site. A.B’s comments: “These brothers live and work exclusively for Christ.  They live separately from the world’s distractions praying for it and those in it.  They looked all over to find an unspoiled area where they still could buy a mountain top to build an isolated monastery and guess where they choose?  The American Redoubt!  These brothers appear to be traditional Catholics. (Notice the habits and they use a version of the traditional Latin Mass.) They participate in the public life by opening their monastery to Christian men who are looking for an isolated retreat, and they also have men-only services on Sunday.    I am also researching a cloistered group of sisters, but they initially appear to be much more progressive. It may not be a bad thing to know a bunch of traditional monks living in a remote castle in the Redoubt in the future.”

   o o o

Duck hunter describes near-death experience on Snake River



Economics and Investing:

US citizens leaving the country to avoid stiff tax bills

Euro Area Pushed Into Recession as Trade Slows, Spending Drops

Jim W. suggested this: Research Shows ALL Paper Money Systems Failed

Items from The Economatrix:

How To Prepare For The Coming Gold Crunch

Oil Trades Near Three-Week Low as ECB Cuts Europe Growth Outlook

More US Service Jobs Heading Offshore

The World’s Economy Is In Peril, The Government Knows It



Odds ‘n Sods:

Half of America: I’d Kill to Protect My Own–Survey reveals stunning attitudes about surviving in catastrophe

   o o o

For the SurvivalBlog readers who have supported Anchor of Hope Charities (the folks who run an orphanage and mission school in Zambia), this is your annual reminder. Many thanks for supporting such a worthy and financially responsible charity. They operate with almost no overhead.

   o o o

Blogger Sarah A. Hoyt talks societal collapse: Preparing For The Long Rains

   o o o

A reminder that the Freeze Dry Guy two-week 25% off sale of Mountain House freeze dried foods in #10 cans ends on December 13th, so order soon. This sale offer includes free shipping to CONUS!

   o o o

Jim W. sent: Here’s A Homemade Tank Using A Playstation Controller To Fire At Assad’s Troops



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“Technology is a blessing for those who understand it and can develop and maintain it. It can be a snare for those who can can only depend on getting it ‘off the shelf.’ If it malfunctions they are lost. Tools, supplies, and technological equipment should play a part in anyone’s survival plans, but they should not play a part that overreaches the person’s ability to deal with it.” – Karl Hess, Editor, A Common Sense Strategy for Survivalists, p. 37, 1981



How to Thwart Nigerian Scammers: Demand Proof of Life

SurvivalBlog readers often buy gear for their retreats using Craigslist and Internet message boards such as Buddy’s Board and eHam to buy equipment. There are some genuine bargains out there, but be advised that these web sites have become the favorite hunting grounds of Nigerian Scammers. They prey upon people who are looking for bargains. Typically, the scammers place fraudulent ads offering items for sale in the Want To Sell (WTS) category , or they respond to Want To Buy (WTB) ads.

Some Red Flags that may indicate that you’ve been contacted by a Nigerian merchandise scammer:

1.) The seller offers new or like new merchandise for around 1/2 of the regular retail price.

2.) The seller writes in broken English, and with strange punctuation.

3.) The seller seems ignorant about the technical details of what he is selling–never going past “copy and paste” from other ads or a manufacturer’s marketing descriptions..

4.) If you are the seller, then the buyer offers to send you a check for more than your asking price with a request to wire back the difference.

5.) Their e-mails are sent at odd hours . (At 3 a.m., Pacific Time, it is 12 noon in Nigeria– a nine hour difference.)

6.) The seller claims that he is deaf, so that he cannot converse with you by phone.

7.) The seller asks for any unusual form of payment.

8.) If it is an ad at a forum that lists member numbers, the seller has a high member number, indicating that he just recently joined the forum.

 

I was recently looking for an expensive and scarce Trijicon ACOG scope for one of my guns. So I placed a WTB (Want To Buy) ad on Buddy’s Board. I got this offer via e-mail, originating from a Gmail address:

Good day,

Have you got any leads/order on your WTB ads listed on my subject
Email?? Let me know as i have one up for sale.

Respectfully,

Ben

I wrote back:

Ben:

What is the condition of the ACOG and your asking price?

He replied at 2:57 AM:

It,s in LNIB conditions with an asking price of $640 Shipped. Ben

It is notable that this is a scope normally retails for around $1,500. Note his poor punctuation of “It,s ” and the misspelling: “conditions.”

Smelling a rat, I wrote him in reply:

Ben:
Yes, I’ll take it.  But because Nigerian sales scams have become so commonplace, I need you to provide me “proof of life”.  Before I send you payment, I need you to do the following:  Take a magic marker and write your e-mail address and today’s date on a strip of paper and DRAPE IT in a curve over the scope and take a crisp digital photo of the scope, showing that paper strip draped in place. This photo will prove to me that you actually have the scope in your possession.

Without this photo, we have NO DEAL.  But with it, I will send you immediate payment via US Postal Service Money Order.

Pardon me for being so cautious, but we are living in the age of deception and betrayal. – ~Jim Rawles

Not surprisingly, the scammer made no reply. Beware folks, and take precautions when dealing with potential scammers. Making a “proof of life” photo demand will almost always send a scammer scurrying back under his rock. If there is ever any doubt, one final test that works well in ferreting out scammers is to pose a fake technical question. For example, if the item in question is a gun, ask the seller to “provide its PCGS grade.” If it is a scope, ask the seller to “describe it’s bore condition.” Or if it is a ham radio, ask him “how much squelch are you including?” Such questions will almost always trip them up.

The bottom line: If it sounds too good to be true, then it probably is.

Addendum: I have heard that one of the latest schemes used by Nigerian scammers is to buy merchandise from American vendors, making payments via wire transfers. Then, after he goods have shipped, they use a loophole in the wire transfer rules to withdraw the transfer, snatching the funds back overseas. Beware! – J.W.R.