Jim,
Regarding the recent article “A Beginner’s Guide to Essential Oils”:
I was involved in the Essential Oil industry for a while. There are very limited uses for essential oils, however, and this is important, there are so many scammers in essential oil sales. It is very difficult to tell, without actual spectroscopic and chemical testing, if the essential oils are actually pure, what their purity is, if they’ve been diluted, and what they’ve been diluted with. Most essential oil companies buy from farmers or wholesale dealers overseas, pay be wire transfer, and hope reputation will see them to a good product. I worked for one of the better companies, and they did not do any lab verification of product newly arrived from a distiller. Bottle it, ship it out. I had questions.
“Is this lighter color? Is the viscosity off? Does this smell right?”
The answer: “It’s a different batch! Don’t worry about it!”
Maybe they know best, but I’m often skeptical of blasé claims. Science exists to tell exactly these things, but the cottage industry of essential oils have no reason to do that. They insist their product is Pure and Natural. And just because a bottle of oils passed exam the first time (years back) doesn’t mean the farmer in Africa or India isn’t diluting it in later bottles, knowing you were dumb enough to buy the con the first time. Like salting a mine to get a better price. There is considerable variation and I would not be surprised at all to test a batch and find something interesting diluting it. It is unregulated, at every stage. Buyer beware.
Most of the oils are properly labeled as perfume oils or perfume supplies. They smell good, they get used in perfumes, and that’s fine. Night Blooming Jasmine can be diluted a lot into very nice perfume and has been used as a perfume oil since Babylon was the center of the arts and culture. Frankincense is a piney smell. Myrrh (Oppoponax) is a weaker pine smell, but irritating on the skin so while amusing to own a bit of Biblical History, the two aren’t actually a very nice scent, in my opinion.
Many kinds of Rose oil can be used as a perfume base, though many brands of rose oil are frequently synthetic labeled as organic by unscrupulous dealers. In international trade people don’t always tell the truth. And the buyers in that industry are often not the most discerning businessmen, trusting in relationships rather than verify the goods are pure every time before payment. Trust but verify. Or rather verify, don’t trust. And that’s the perfumes and placebos.
If you decide to stockpile perfume, essential oils deserve to be kept in a cool dark place, like a box in your wine cellar or basement. Some get better when they age. Perfumes are valuable trade goods, and history shows men do many things for the willing and enthusiastic attention of a woman. This is the good side of the Essential oil industry.
Unfortunately, some of the oils sold as “traditional medicines” are actually potent toxins. As in deadly [in sufficient concentration], though not normally considered such because: “They’re natural and that’s the same thing as good!”.
Yes, 90% of them are placebos and make the room smell nice, but the other 10% might stop your breathing, cause brain damage (which starts as a strong headache and nosebleed), and should be treated with extreme caution and possibly need an ambulance and Poison Control Center.
Holy Basil? Nosebleed and increasingly strong headache.
Sarsaparilla? Toxic, despite being used in root beer for a century and a half. Buy a certain beer manufacturer’s Root Beer (non-alcoholic) and drink three in a week. The third one should make your head ache like a persistent migraine. That’s the toxin. Not their fault. It’s the real extract, not synthetic.
Wintergreen oil? Oops! Toxic. This is a major component of Birch Oil, by the way
Clove Oil? Nerve blocking toxin, that will numb skin applied to. So it is popular in “natural” dentistry, but watch out. In higher doses it is like curare or botulin.
The secondary problem of essential oils is dosage. They are meant to be either breathed in or rubbed into the skin. The aerosol dispersal system uses sound waves to raise a mist over the thin film floating over a water bath. This mist is blown out with a fan and wafts around the room. If ventilation is good, you smell the nice or odd smell and its fine, probably. If you’re in a closed room and maybe inhale a bit too much, it gets into your bloodstream in higher concentration. If it’s a placebo, probably no issues other than saturating your clothes and furniture. If it’s a toxin or corrosive/irritant, you might get into respiratory distress or worse. Irritants trigger asthma attacks, even in low doses of passerby or hours later. Sneezing allergy is common with a number of essential oils with no proven effects otherwise.
Since practitioners of herbal medicine are not licensed doctors because Essential Oils are not FDA-approved drugs and have highly variable purity, this can be a very risky and unsafe, to say the least. Thankfully, most are placebos so people rarely die from overdosing. I make specific note of the NOT FDA APPROVED part because real doctors have sworn an oath (Hippocrates oath: “first, do no harm.”) An unlicensed herbal medicine clinic doctor may cause your accidental death using drugs with uncertain potency, on patients with unknown allergies with impure sourcing and no serious testing. Sellers of essential oils do zero allergy testing for patients because most sell in new age shops, by phone, or web site, or multi-level marketing so the one taking the blame in court isn’t the maker in many cases. This is the downside of the “wink wink, nudge nudge, say no more!” crowd. Deflecting blame if something goes wrong.
Oils meant to be rubbed on are generally used after diluting in a carrier oil like almond oil or jojoba (which is another frequent synthetic sold as natural and pure). One of the popular oils meant for sleeping is actually a strong toxin and an overdose can risk your life. Oops. I imagine people who die using that can’t complain, and since none of these are FDA approved, companies which sell it DO NOT ever refer to it as medicine, nor may they legally describe the effects. It’s all inferred to avoid FDA regulation violation fines. “Oh, this is really RESTFUL, okay! Its calming!” It’s a potent toxin which in small doses is a sedative but large ones may kill you. There are several like this and gushy sales people pretend to not tell you what its supposed to do, according to some culture’s traditions. Unfortunately, modern techniques of steam distillation and stainless steel means the oils are far purer (if the source is actually pure), than ever obtained in stone or bronze age cultures. This means the traditional guidelines aren’t right, to say the least. And you might get way more exposure than they ever used.
Some more examples of essential oil effects that aren’t directly stated but inferred with a wink. Quotes to paraphrase their indirect claims:
“Carrot Seed Oil is a natural sunscreen.” Nope. Multiple tests with multiple people and correct concentration in appropriate recommended carrier oil: result was bad sunburns all around.
“Rosemary oil repels mosquitoes.” Nope. They’re attracted to CO2 from your breath. The oil just repels other people.
“Eucalyptus oil prevents colds.” Placebo.
“Marigold oil repels insects when sprayed on plants.” Might work. Don’t get it on you though. Planting marigolds is a known and sometimes effective bug deterrent in gardens. But it doesn’t stop all bugs. Sometimes buying ladybugs and praying mantises is better, since they actively hunt pests down.
“Sunflower Essential Oil improves skin.” Placebo. Oils reduce dryness, generally improve skin anyway. Almond oil is cheap at health food stores.
“Neem oil is an antibiotic and antifungal.” Smells foul enough. The trouble with antibiotics is bacteria adapt and overcome. They’re like the Marine Corps. So it might work once but repeated use often breeds superbugs and most doctors recommend people do not use antibiotic soaps. Neem has similar issues.
Citrus oils cause severe sunburns on any contaminated skin exposed to sunlight. They’re called phototoxic. So Orange Oil in cleaning products isn’t just irritating and corrosive, it also gives you sun burn which could become skin cancer. Nice. Same with Lemon Oil, Lime Oil, and Grapefruit Oil. They smell nice though.
All in all, having the chance to be exposed to that industry and deal directly with those products, I can’t seriously recommend them. Most are Schumer, some are poisons, others might work once but harm afterwards. Few are proven tested to be what they claim to be so you’re taking a heck of a chance. That’s not a very good success ratio, particularly since they are so expensive. And there is no good reliable guarantee of purity or quality other than some person’s promise. Even if they believe it doesn’t make it true.
Focus on the Three Bs instead. And use more traditional means to care for your health. Proper nutrition and exercise. Split some firewood or till the garden or shovel off your driveway. It’s much safer. And probably a far better use of your time and money.
Sincerely, – InyoKern
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Economics and Investing:
Reader Andre D. sent: Feeding the Bubble: Is the Next Crash Brewing?
Charles Hugh-Smith: A Quick Guide to What’s Fake: Everything That’s Officially Sanctioned. [JWR’s Comment: While I disagree with his viewpoint on
government intervention in the marketplace and on taxation (I’m a laissez faire minimalist-government libertarian), I almost always enjoy reading Charles Hugh-Smith’s piercing observations.]
Over at The Daily Bell: Forced Savings Bait and Switch
Items from The Economatrix:
U.S. October Business Inventories Up 0.7%
Why The Budget Deal Is Bad News For Gold: Pro
Is Your Job About To Be Outsourced By A Computer (The Probability Is 47%)
Military Retirees Feel Betrayed By Congressional Budget Cuts To Pensions
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Odds ‘n Sods:
Former Top NSA Official: “We Are Now In A Police State”
o o o
Worthy of support: Benjamin Wassell Legal Defense Fund
o o o
Here comes the RIF! Reader John E. wrote to mention: Army to cut 4000 captains and majors. The Air Force, too
o o o
Alan W. recommended this sound advice: Is It a Cold or the Flu? How to Tell the Difference
o o o
Several readers mentioned this: In Texas, Search Warrants Can Now Be Based on a “Prediction of a Future Crime.” Here is a key quote: “The majority’s decision, he writes, means that ‘search warrants may now be based on predictions of the commission of future crimes,’ which is an uncomfortable concept to say the least.”
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Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“Comfort ye, comfort ye my people, saith your God. Speak ye comfortably to Jerusalem, and cry unto her, that her warfare is accomplished, that her iniquity is pardoned: for she hath received of the LORD’s hand double for all her sins.
The voice of him that crieth in the wilderness, Prepare ye the way of the LORD, make straight in the desert a highway for our God.
Every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill shall be made low: and the crooked shall be made straight, and the rough places plain:
And the glory of the LORD shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together: for the mouth of the LORD hath spoken it.
The voice said, Cry. And he said, What shall I cry? All flesh is grass, and all the goodliness thereof is as the flower of the field: The grass withereth, the flower fadeth: because the spirit of the LORD bloweth upon it: surely the people is grass. The grass withereth, the flower fadeth: but the word of our God shall stand for ever.
O Zion, that bringest good tidings, get thee up into the high mountain; O Jerusalem, that bringest good tidings, lift up thy voice with strength; lift it up, be not afraid; say unto the cities of Judah, Behold your God!
Behold, the Lord GOD will come with strong hand, and his arm shall rule for him: behold, his reward is with him, and his work before him.
He shall feed his flock like a shepherd: he shall gather the lambs with his arm, and carry them in his bosom, and shall gently lead those that are with young.” – Isaiah 40:1-11 (KJV)
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Note from JWR:
Today we present another entry for Round 50 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $9,400+ worth of prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225, I.) Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $195. J.) KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304. and K.) APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit.
Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 25 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is a $250 value, G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value). H.) EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles is donating a $250 gift certificate, and I.) Autrey’s Armory — specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts and accessories — is donating a $250 gift certificate.
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises. F.) Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and G.) Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies. This assortment has a retail value of $208.
Round 50 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
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The Leader’s Recon: Planning the Homesteader’s Defensive Battle Space, by Tim R.
Today, I did a leader’s recon (reconnaissance) of my small homestead. While I was in the infantry, I would plan my future ground defense by walking the terrain with my small unit infantry leaders. Today, I did the same, minus the team leaders. Twenty years in the infantry, and now several years retired, and now I look at how I am going to protect my family and defend my rural homestead. I feel that the day may be coming soon. President Obama stated that our nation’s deficit does not concern him. This nation is on a mad printing spree, conjuring up money out of thin air to pay for our debts. Any student of history knows that you cannot print your way to prosperity. This will not end well. Social upheaval is inevitable when you rapidly devalue your currency. To prepare for this coming storm means analyzing and planning your home defenses, now, not during the storm.
Americans have been given some dubious advice by the gaffe prone Vice-President Joe Biden. He advised armed citizens to confront burglars with a double barreled shotgun and to scare them away by firing two blasts up in the air outside their house. The hardened and desperate marauder will not be deterred by noise. Biden also advised us to shoot through the door to discourage home invaders. Failing to properly identify your target as friend or foe can lead to tragedy. By the time marauders are at the doorstep, it is too late, and you have quickly ran out of battle-space.
During a prolonged and severe nationwide crisis, we will most likely see a total breakdown of society, with little or no law enforcement. Local law enforcement will likely collapse, as they will choose to stay home and protect their own families (What are they going to be paid with anyway? Worthless paper money?). You are on your own. You will have to be your own 911. And I hope that you will be armed with something more substantial then a double-barrel shotgun. Waiting for the bad guys to breach the front door at night or standing on your front porch, shotgun in hand, is not going to work. You will need to deter, deceive, detect, deny, delay, and defend what you have, not through the front door, but within your neighborhood/homestead/farm in a coordinated, robust defense-in-depth.
We need to prepare for a total breakdown of society, called a Without Rule Of Law (WROL). Marauders and the unprepared will not be dissuaded by harmless noise making shotgun blasts in the air. They will be desperate, hungry, cunning, and they want what you have. During the initial parts of the crisis, the clueless, careless, and unprepared will quickly be killed off. It will be the homeowner who thinks he can scare off several armed thugs with his Joe Biden approved shotgun from his front porch. Or it will be the lone wolf looter who helps himself to what is in the homesteader’s kitchen in broad daylight. Once they have been winnowed out, only the cunning and ruthless will be left on both sides. We will need to have a strong, well planned defense to protect our family and homestead. The following article has recommendations on what to do before and after WROL. One caveat: Some of the defensive and deadly force measures discussed here should only be used AFTER the collapse of law enforcement. Until then, common sense and local laws apply!
Back to my leader’s recon. I would start by conducting an Intelligence Preparation of the Battlefield or IPB.
Enemy: I would analyze the enemy or potential enemy by using local media and the neighborhood grapevine. I would classify them and ask who will I be dealing with? Refugees, opportunistic individuals, or organized gangs? Size? What is their typical COA (Course Of Action, in other words, how are they conducting their attacks on homesteads)? What are they after (food or retributive change)? Locations? Equipment/Weapons? Mobility? When was they last seen? What are their strengths? Weaknesses?
Terrain: Next, I drew a simple bird’s eye map of the homestead. I drew the house, outbuildings, tree-lines, driveways, trails, creeks, and any other prominent terrain features. One shortcut I use is Google Earth. It allows you to view and print satellite imagery anywhere in the world. Center in on your area, zoom in, and print it up.
Analyze the terrain from a defensive point of view, and an offensive (the enemies) point of view. Walk around and look for observation and fields of fire, cover and concealment, manmade and natural obstacles, key or decisive terrain, and avenues of approach. The acronym for planning battle-space is OCOKA, which stands for:
- Observation and Fields of Fire: For my homestead, observation would be a second story window, open terrain, or a concealed position across the road to observe and provide an early warning. Fields of fire are cleared open or semi-open areas that allow us see into and to engage the enemy with aimed rifle fire.
- Cover and Concealment: Cover protects a person from direct rifle fire, concealment just conceals from said rifle fire. Good cover is filled sandbags, tires filled with dirt, armor plating, large boulders, stone fences, or a dry ravine. Concealment conceals, but it does not stop bullets. It could leafy foliage, typical housing construction, or inside the standard family car. Most rifle bullets will pass clean though a typical vinyl siding, plywood and gypsum board housing construction. Note areas that you cannot see into, such as a ravine, heavy vegetation, houses, or behind a stone fence. This is called dead space, and could be exploited by the enemy to move in closer to your defensive positions. Outline, then hatch-mark the dead space areas on your map.
- Obstacles (Manmade and natural): For my area, it is sturdy gates, barbed wire fences and spike strips. It could also be a swamp, brier-patch, forest, wide creeks, trenches, and logs across the road. Anything to slow or have the enemy move away from your area, or move to an area where you can see him and engage with rifle fire. Draw your obstacles on your map.
- Key or Decisive Terrain: This is terrain that offers a tactical advantage to the attacker or defender. For my area it is our house and outbuildings. Lose the house to marauders; lose the food, water, and shelter. Other key terrain may be a bridge, a hill, or water tower that looks down into your area or a ravine that comes right up to your defensive area. Circle these areas on your map.
- Avenues of Approach (Slow and high-speed): Trails, open areas (slow), and roads (high-speed). For us, it is the driveway and road. Control both, and it will be easier for us to assess someone as hostile, friendly, or unknown. Fail to control both, and they can quickly roll right up on top of us before we can alert everyone and mount a robust defense. Again, draw this on your map.
For defensive planning, use the 6 Ds. They are: Deter, Deceive, Detect, Delay, Deny, and Defend.
- Deter: “The supreme art of war is to subdue the enemy without fighting” (Sun Tzu). Some of the things we can do right now is to make our area as unwelcome as possible to criminals. Set up motion sensor spot lights. Use posted signs around the homestead to inform all that they are under camera surveillance, post beware of dog signs, electrical fencing, or that you have an alarm system. You can buy weatherproof signs and window stickers on eBay. During WROL, we plan on posting several hand-made signs up and down our country roads. They will read: “Rule .357 In Effect”, “You Loot – We Shoot”, “Residents Only,” and “Armed Neighborhood Watch In Effect.” The best battle that you can fight is the one you don’t have to fight. If you can convince the enemy to turn around and move on, then you can avoid the deadly confrontations.
- Deceive: “All warfare is based on deception” and “Appear weak when you are strong and strong when you are weak” (Sun Tzu). Use camouflage as part of your deception plan. If they can’t see it, they can’t attack it. If they don’t know about it, they can’t come up with a countermeasure. Example: What may look like a pile of brush may be a fighting position (fox hole). Being low key and inconspicuous (going gray) should also be part of your plan. If your neighbors don’t have electricity, neither should you (at least outwardly). That means blackout curtains, and limiting generator noises. If your neighbors have been looted, throw some of your unused furniture out on the lawn. Don’t be eager to outwardly display all of your defensive measures. Wait for the right moment, then utilize as needed for the maximum shock effect. This will cause the enemy to re-think his plans and react to you.
- Detect: Set up a communication plan with your neighbors. If they see marauders in the area, have them alert you. Plan for a well hidden LP/OP (Listening Post/Observation Post) just outside your perimeter along a likely avenue of approach. Consider a home video surveillance system. You can connect them to your laptop PC system to view and record events. Some surveillance systems will give you an alarm if motion is detected. Dakota Alert is another great wireless system that lets you know if there are intruders in your area. This equipment all works as long as you have electricity and/or batteries. Have a backup for your backup. Binoculars and alert, barking dogs is one of several solutions. Closer to home, you cannot clear all of the dense brush and undergrowth in a forest, but you can strategically clear lanes that allow you to look deep inside the forest.
- Delay/Deny: Delay and Deny go hand in hand. Denying the enemy access to an area also slows him down. That gives you time to detect the enemy and go to full alert within your perimeter. Logs or homemade spike strips across the driveway will force vehicles to slow and stop. Fences and gates will delay the enemy. Crisscrossing wire at random heights in open areas slows an attacker. Consider spike and nail strips, broken glass, or barbed wire in dead space areas to deny the enemy the chance to use it. Set up your defense in layers. If he breaches one obstacle, make him have to contend with several more. Use your man-made and natural obstacles to deter the enemy so that he gives up and goes elsewhere, or channelizes him into the battlefield of your choice, called a Kill Zone.
- Defend: And finally, during WROL, and when all else fails, it is time to put well aimed rifle fire on those who would do you harm. If you have shaped your battlefield with obstacles and have a planned defense, this will be at the place and time of your choosing.
Scout areas for possible homestead 360º perimeter fighting positions. Place your homestead in the center and then plan your circular defense. Plan your fighting positions to cover likely avenues of approach. Do not plan a linear defense, because a thinking enemy will just circle around and attack you from your unguarded rear flank (remember the Maginot Line?).
When planning ground level fighting positions (fox holes) and before you dig, the trick is to lie down on the ground and look at the terrain. Why? Because the terrain looks a lot different when you have dug down into the ground and just your head is poking up! Look for areas that will offer cover and concealment to an enemy trying to attack your position. Now looking downrange, each fighting position should have a left and right lateral limit. This is the extreme left and right a rifleman can engage a target without firing on a friendly fighting position. Stakes or sandbags can help limit the rifle traversing at night by creating a physical stop for the rifleman. Create fields of fire that overlap with other nearby friendly position’s fields of fire, so there are no gaps or blind spots that the enemy can exploit. Each fighting position should mutually support each other by rifle fire. That means the enemy cannot assault/attack one fighting position without drawing fire from nearby friendly fighting position (s).
When planning the homestead defense, keep saying to yourself “Think Ambush.” An ambush is a deadly attack on an unsuspecting enemy at close range from a concealed and covered defensive position. The enemy has little time to react to your attack, because they never saw it coming. They never realized that you saw them first, and that you were able to quietly alert your homestead. They never saw the cleverly camouflaged fighting positions, they never suspected the obstacles were there to not only stop them, but to steer them into a lethal Kill Zone, with no escape.
The last step in planning is to approach the proposed fighting position(s) from the enemy’s side during the day and at night. Try to think how the enemy will approach, view, and plan an attack on the defensive positions.
When it comes time to dig my fighting positions, one of the first things I will do is cut down some of the many small fir trees that we have around the homestead. I will then lay the cut trees on their side in front of the locations I plan on digging my fighting position. This will camouflage the fighting position. I will also scatter cut trees around the property to draw attention away from the real positions. Have a plan to remove anything in front of the fighting position that might provide cover or concealment for the enemy. You will not be able to clear an entire forest to deny cover and concealment, but make the effort to selectively clear fields of observation/fire without making it too obvious.
Using your IPB and OCOKA, draw a range card map. It is a simple bird’s eye view of the defensive area and allows you to visualize your defenses. Place the homestead in the center. Now draw the location for each proposed fighting position, including their left and right lateral limits. On your range card, each fighting position should look like a V, with the fighting position at the base. Each leg of the V should have the distance to the closest dead space. Include distances to tree-lines, avenues of approach or any other areas that the enemy may attack you from.
My leader’s recon also included an obstacle plan. One of the obstacles includes a four strand barbed wire fence. For some, it may be too early to start constructing defensive obstacles, like a razor wire gate (the neighbors will talk!). But we need to start planning now. Know where you are going to place everything, how long will it take to construct it, and start purchasing the necessary materials, like barbed wire and fence posts. Plan and construct obstacles to channelize or force the enemy into an open area where you can destroy him in a Kill Zone. ALL obstacles should be covered by rifle fire. If you cannot maintain visual and rifle fire on an obstacle, the enemy will go around it, or try to breach it.
Have defensive plans for the enemy’s COA. There should be at least two enemy COAs: Most likely and most dangerous. Have a rehearsed plan for each enemy COA. For me, the enemy’s most likely COA when attacking my homestead is hey-diddle-diddle, right up the middle. Right up the driveway. Right into the closed gate, barbed wire fences, camouflaged fighting positions with alert defenders. Most dangerous is hitting us from our lightly defended flank, coming in from the tree-line (dead space) that is dangerously close to our homestead. We won’t see them until they are right on top of us. We will counteract with aggressive and random patrolling outside the defensive perimeter, a communication/warning plan with my neighbors, alert barking dogs, Dakota Alerts, and trip wires.
While you are planning your defensive positions, don’t stop there. Consider:
- A communication plan. Primary: Radios – Alternate: Voice, Runner – No Comm: Hand & Arm Signals, Flashlight.
- Continuously improving your defenses and obstacles.
- Making sure the camouflage matches the terrain.
- How would weather affect your defenses and defenders? Rain, snow, heat, darkness?
- Create and camouflage alternate positions that cover the same sector of fire.
- War-game and conduct rehearsals/drills (ensure all weapons are unloaded!). Evaluate your defenders.
- Keep asking “What If??” What if I was attacked from this direction? What if the enemy used fire bombs or wire cutters?
- Discuss and implement clear rules of engagement (When to use or not to use deadly force). Ask what is a “hostile act” during WROL?
- Discuss and implement the use of force continuum. Not every hostile act requires a deadly force reaction.
- Implement visual control measures. Map and label all prominent terrain features. Create check points. Everyone should know the homestead cardinal directions (north, south, etc….). Example: “I have three armed unknowns, walking, vicinity check point 12 (Bear Creek Bridge) heading south”
- If you have reports of nearby marauders, have a stand-to (100% alert, everyone armed and awake) at dusk and at dawn. This is the ideal time to get attacked.
- Develop IA (Immediate Action) drills. It is a rehearsed and automatic response to a likely enemy COA. Example: Visibly armed person(s) attempt to breach the gate/fencing; we will go to full alert and conduct X, Y, and Z.
- Color code defensive postures and SOPs. Example: Threat Condition Red; 100% Alert, all positions manned, all adults/teens armed with a rifle, wearing load bearing vests, bug out bags at the ready.
My action plan is this: At some point in the near future there will be a trigger event, like a bank holiday or food riots that will compel me to grab a shovel to start digging and building my up defensive positions. Having planned my battle-space and laid in defensive building supplies, all I have to do is implement my plan. When I have word of the approaching storm, this is one less thing to worry about.
So prepare for the coming storm. Walk the homestead, conduct a leader’s recon, and plan your defensive battle-space. TODAY.
- Ad Trekker Water Station 1Gal Per MinuteCall us if you have Questions 800-627-3809
- Add Your Link Here
Letter Re: Could America’s Pot Growers Start Growing Opium Poppies?
Dear Jim,
I thought I would let you know about something interesting going on in the Gold Country of California. Some SurvivalBlog readers may be aware that the North San Juan Ridge, aka “The Ridge” is highly populated with homesteaders, [near Grass Valley, California,, in Nevada County.] Since the soil is poor, and there are many squatters or people on largely undeveloped land, few make sufficient money from growing food for themselves, so turned to growing [marijuana, commonly called] pot.
In the old days, pot was illegal and the Fed and State CAMP task force would survey and raid pot farms, which went on the news.
After pot got into a gray area of legality and growers aren’t required to display legal certification so half the raids have to walk away while the farmer laughs, the pot farmers work almost openly. Pot is growing all over the place now, not just on the ridge. There are pot plants downtown grass valley in people’s gardens, next to their corn.
There have been articles in the local newspaper about “Trimmers” coming into town to harvest “medical marijuana” in North San Juan Ridge. I saw many of them around, looking very smug. When the work was done, those paid well enough left town once more. Others have stayed on with new friends for planting and tending next year’s crop.
For the most part, things are quiet up there. However, there were several reported instances of “home invasion robberies” by trimmers breaking into pot farms to steal the prepared bricks of marijuana or the money tucked away for the year’s expenses after making their sales down in the cities. There’s a lot more money than there used to be, so there’s more violent crime occurring. And since North San Juan is not incorporated, there is a long wait from a 911 call to the Deputies showing up, and they also show up armed for bear and looking very grim. Apparently the farmers shoot back. Or try.
Picture if you will, California goes for full legalization of marijuana, for all users, no restrictions, claiming taxes blah blah blah. It already happened in Washington State and Colorado. It will likely happen in the PRK. What will the pot growers do when their carefully managed remote farms are forced to sell their dope for 10 cents on the dollar of the former price and the money just isn’t good enough to live on with all the land they can use? Desperation. And desperate people do desperate things.
In Kashmir in the Himalayas, marijuana farms which refined pot into hashish, hauled the product over the Khyber Pass by mule train until a road was built in the 1990’s. They found themselves not making enough money so they switched to opium poppies.
Who wants to bet that current pot farmers in the USA won’t switch to growing opium when pot becomes legal? Some renters in Truckee, California [at the eastern end of Nevada County] had their hashish catch fire. After a trip to the emergency room for 2nd degree burns, they got booked into county jail. And those are the ones who got caught. It is reasonable that pot farmers will start making hash to reduce bulk and increase selling price, if they have the market for it. But hash isn’t as consistent a money maker as heroin. Heroin is highly addictive, physically addictive. It suppresses the body’s natural endorphin production so when the opiates process out, everything starts to hurt, apparently. Given a few days, the endorphin glands work again, but many heroin junkies can’t stand to wait that long and will do anything to stay high, including lots of violent crime. In Portland Oregon, the arrests for heroin are the highest in the USA, and police officers end up defending themselves or civilians rather frequently. Apparently, the way to come down off a Speed (Meth) binge is to sleepand for that they take heroin. It’s a big problem in Modesto[California] too, or was back when they could still steal cars to pay for it. Maybe not now.
Law enforcement is planning how to deal with domestic opium and already tracks heroin over-doses at the emergency room and arrests locally. So far it isn’t local product, but they fear that eventually, lowered price pot will mean the farmers will switch to tar opium or refine heroin for maximum markup. The farmers see themselves as homesteaders, living off the grid by their own rules, but mostly need soap and their clothes are full of holes and their vans are converted into living space. Impressive practical conversions that can still navigate the rutted gravel and dirt roads, and they deal with the sort of remote secret security problems and keep their OPSEC very close to the chest. They are however making and selling drugs. Upping the ante to heroin will be an all too easy next step. And the violence will increase.
If you have a neighbor growing pot, and see flashes of bright poppy flowers through the trees, give serious thought to your safety, and whether you want any involvement with that person when you hear shots fired at their place. You may even give some thought to a ballistic barrier between your home and theirs. Just to be safe. Sincerely, – InyoKern
Economics and Investing:
Readers Mark A. and John in Colorado both mentioned: Taper or no taper, the Fed will never end QE: Marc Faber
Camden, New Jersey: One Of Hundreds Of U.S. Cities That Are Turning Into Rotting, Decaying Hellholes
Record U.S. Gold Bullion Exports Head to Hong Kong & Switzerland
Items from The Economatrix:
Retail Sales Rise, Signaling Stronger Economy
Odds ‘n Sods:
K.T. recommended this 44-minute documentary video: Advanced Sniper Technology and Tactics. OBTW, the USMC’s four-to-six-man Scout Sniper squad structure roughly parallels what I describe for the organization of the Canadian resistance army cells in my upcoming novel Liberators. (Lord willing, that should be published by E.P. Dutton in October, 2014.)
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A reminder that CampingSurvival.com has a 5% off coupon code “sb1” available for all of their merchandise, aside from special sale items.
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Wintersown Seeds: Now is the time to start
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And speaking of seeds, SurvivalBlog’s Editor at Large Michael Z. Williamson spotted this oddity: Boring gardens don’t stand a chance against flower seeds you plant with a shotgun
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Sharp ears! R.B.S. sent this fascinating video link: Fox hunting under snow in an incredible way
Jim’s Quote of the Day:
“But one thing is sure, it has proven remarkably expensive to fight an enemy equipped with donkeys and Toyota pickup trucks…” – High Afghan Exit Costs Force US Military to Contemplate End of Era (For MRAP), Defense Industry Daily
Notes from JWR:
December 19th is the birthday of physicist Albert A. Michelson (Born 1852, died May 9, 1931), the first American to be awarded a Nobel Prize in science, for measuring the speed of light. (Along with Mr. Morley.) FWIW, I’m related to Michelson, by marriage. By way of my great aunt Zelpha (Rawles) Michelson.
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Today we present another entry for Round 50 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $9,400+ worth of prizes for this round include:
First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), F.) A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy. G.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. H.) A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com. The current value of this roll is at least $225, I.) Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad. They have a combined value of $195. J.) KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304. and K.) APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit.
Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P.), E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials F.) A full set of all 25 of the books published by PrepperPress.com. This is a $250 value, G.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value). H.) EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles is donating a $250 gift certificate, and I.) Autrey’s Armory — specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts and accessories — is donating a $250 gift certificate.
Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security., E.) A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises. F.) Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and G.) Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies. This assortment has a retail value of $208.
Round 50 ends on January 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.
Anderson Powerpoles: The Legos of DC Electronics, by Dan in Alaska
To say that I’m a neophyte in the electrical world, or as we say here in Alaska a “Cheechako”, is making a big understatement. So, a couple years back my co-worker and friend got me into Amateur Radio, also affectedly known as Ham Radio. I studied my ARRL Technician book and passed my test, but it just barely rattled what I had in my head 20 years ago from my only electronics class I had back in High School where we studied Ohm’s law, identified a resistor, and made a strobe light. So, I’m on a big learning curve.
I searched around and studied lots of reviews and settled on a nice hand held radio, a Yaesu VX-6R. It works great for VHF and the 2M repeaters that I have in my town. As with anything, you always strive for bigger and better! Must be the Tim “The Toolman” Taylor gene that all guys have (emphasis on the Toolman grunt)! So, I’m studying to upgrade my license from a Technician to General and get into HF. Not only am I doing this to get more into my hobby, but I feel this is part of prepping that is just as important as beans and bullets. Besides studying to upgrade my license, I have been assembling gear for my “shack”. Again going around the net (great review site for Ham related stuff is www.eHam.net) and talking with fellow Hams, I decided to get a radio that is not only good for a base station, but mobile. I ended up getting another Yaesu, a FT-897D. That turned out to be the easy part, the rest of the gear list is probably going to be never ending and always changing. This brings me to what I wanted to write about, the Anderson Powerpole.
From what I read and have experienced so far is that the Anderson Powerpole is the gold standard for 12VDC power connection. There are probably people reading this and saying “Whoopee, who cares about connecting wires”! I was there too at one time, being upside down hooking up trailer lights by twisting 2 wires together and wrapping them with electrical tape. The genius with Powerpoles is not only the ease of installation, but the mobility and adaptability of this product. One of the best features of the Powerpoles is that they are genderless, no male or female fittings. One reviewer called it a hermaphroditic plug. Because of that several emergency groups like RACES and ARES make Powerpoles a standard for equipment so everyone has the same ability to hook up all their equipment into various power sources.
So, I went to Powerwerx and bought several sets of Powerpoles, a roll of 12 gauge red/black zip cord, extra clips, a RIGrunner (more about that later), and a few other sundry items. A set of Powerpoles are 2 plastic housings, one red and one black (for positive and negative wires), 2 metal clips, and a roll pin. Now came the important question, to crimp or solder? Well, I tried both and found that solder worked the best foe me. I didn’t buy the fancy crimping tool for the Powerpoles and ended up deforming a couple of clips, and deformed clips won’t fit into the plastic housing. The lockup for the clip and housing is very precise. Same with over soldering the clips, if you have a blob of solder on the outside of the clip, it won’t lockup, but at least one can correct that easily. There are several great sites for assembling Powerpoles like from the Powerwerx web site and Youtube. What worked for me was to put the zip cord, whoa what is zip cord? It’s basically just like the power cord on your lamp at home, two wires side by side, but in this case they are red and black and can be pulled apart if need be. So, zip cord in my vise straight up and down, and a great tip. RED on RIGHT! It will help keep the poles in alignment. Place a clip, straight on top, with the “tongue” away from you. I stripped off about an 1/8 of an inch more than needed to wick the solder, bottom up, into the wire. Let it cool and click into the plastic housing. Now after getting both housings done, you will notice that there are tongues and grooves in the sides of the housing. If you want, you can take the red and black housings and join them together to make a “plug”, and to make it lock up just push in the roll pin in the hole provided by the joining of the two housings. Again there are awesome videos on Youtube showing how to assemble Powerpoles, both crimping and soldering.
Now I mentioned a RIGrunner. This is another little gem I discovered in this adventure produced by West Mountain Radio that uses Powerpoles in a central power distribution box. Basically it’s a little metal box with several Powerpole connector outlet stations (the number dependent on model) that uses standard ATC fuses like in your car. All the stations are the same, both input and output. All you need to do is attach a power source like a 12v battery and your equipment like a radio and antenna tuner and you are in business. Make sure to use the proper fuse with what is coming in or out. I have a 40amp fuse for the power in and 20 amp fuses for my radio and tuner. The model I got also included two USB charging ports for phones and pads. So, what does all of this do for me? Well, I have a very clean and safe setup for my “shack”. All my power cords are in plastic housings, ran through a box with fuses, and are very adaptable and mobile. Adaptable? Let me explain. My current power source for my radio is a box that plugs into a standard wall plug, so it converts 120 VAC to 12 VDC for my various equipment. If the power goes out, then what? I made a few adapters with my Powerpoles. I got a set of battery clips from Radio Shack, just like the ones you see on battery chargers. At the end of the wires I installed a Powerpole set, so now I can use a 12VDC battery from my truck or camper. I also got both male and female cigarette lighter plugs with Powerpoles on each end to either attach to a battery or insert into an existing adapter. I also made a six foot extension cord. The amount of adapters is dependent on your imagination. You can set up inline fuses, filters, splitters, and so on. Mobility? I picked my radio just for that. So, let’s say its bug out time. All you need to do is just pull plugs and go. I have most of my adapters in a canvas bag and pelican case for my radio. So, aside from my antenna and coax, I could be unplugged and ready to go in a couple of minutes and have the ability to hookup to just about any 12VDC source.
Well, there are probably people out there saying “what good is that for me”, or “I’m not into Ham Radio”! Let me expand on that. I just recently moved from one place in Alaska that measured snow in feet to another place in Alaska that measures rain in feet. Now driving on snow isn’t that bad, driving on ice is just plain horrible. There is no steering out of it, or braking. It’s just hold on for a terror of a ride, which happened to me on my little hill of a driveway. So, I grabbed a few bags of salt and did my best impersonation of Johnny Appleseed and hand tossed out all the salt. That wasn’t very easy or efficient! So, after rummaging around the garage and shed, I found a hand held/hand cranked grass seed broadcaster. That worked a little better, but still wasn’t what I was looking for. So, I remembered seeing an ATV mounted broadcaster once on a hunting show. They were putting in food plots for deer, and why wouldn’t that work for salt? I found a not too expensive one on Amazon and placed my order. In about a week I got my seed broadcaster, and I put it together. Now when they said universal mounting, they were being very liberal with that statement, but I got it together. This is basically a tub with a 12VDC motor that spins a segmented disk around and you control the spread by the size of the adjustable hole by the hopper. Now came a problem, the power hook up was with a 12VDC cigarette lighter, and I don’t have one on my ATV. I pulled off the seat and looked at what was a standard motorcycle battery, so I came up with a solution. I cut a length of zip cord and soldered on battery connectors and bolted them to the battery. I installed a set of Powerpoles to the other end that terminated right near the edge of the cowling and ran it under the seat near the engine zip tying it to the frame. I also used some heat shrink tube near the Powerpole plug and zip tied both ends to give it some tension relief. So, it’s all protected somewhat from the elements. I made another female cigarette adapter with a longer piece of zip cord and now my problem is fixed. Yeah, I know, not the most efficient, and I could have gone direct to the battery! Tell me, who doesn’t have at least a couple of items that run on a cigarette lighter? With this set up I can use my salt spreader in the winter and then take it off during hunting season without a huge hassle. I also gained another 12VDC power source for my equipment. A couple of tips, I bought some end caps to seal up the plug when not in use, a great item! Also, a clip that locks two plugs together, so that they don’t rattle apart. Another great item! I just want to mention that I have no affiliation to any items, businesses, web sites, and nor do I receive any compensation. Just one man’s opinion about a great product.
I hope this Cheechako in the electrical world was able to show you a great little component that I consider to be the equivalent of duct tape. When I first opened my box and saw the bag of Powerpoles my first thought was, “what is this, Legos?” Well it’s just like Legos, they snap together and with a little imagination you can build just about anything.
73, – Dan from Alaska
Letter Re: Marksmanship
Sir:
That was an excellent article from Josh B. on Marksmanship. But as Gary D. pointed out, following those principles under stress can be a challenge. I thought I’d recommend a few stress inducers that I practice, which have improved my shooting skills.
Before I begin, I’d like to note that I’m an US Army Infantry veteran. That should not imply that I am an expert. In fact, the more I practice and learn about shooting, the more I’ve come to realize how little I learned back then. Yes, the taught me the fundamentals, but I’ve since realized there is always so much more to learn.
From my perspective shooting falls into two categories: short and long range. The definition between short and long range may vary between different people, but what I am talking about can be summed up as: snapshot vs time for getting into a natural point of aim. Training for each is very different. Most of what Josh B’s article refers to is establishing a Natural Point of Aim (NPOA), controlling breath, squeeze, etc, so I won’t rehash what he already wrote. BTW, when I talk about ‘snapshot’ I extend the definition into the type of target engagement that is usually covered in IPSC.
Let’s start by knowing the baseline. For snapshots, and for NPOA shooting, before adding stress, it would help greatly to identify how you shoot without stress. How long does it take you to shoot accurately? Write it down, with times and average MOA of groups. You should not rely on the feeling of improving. You should be able to see the numbers as you improve. X seconds quicker target engagement, Y MOA more accurate, and Z difference between stress and non-stress situations.
Stress training for NPOA shooting, can be as simple as picking a range lane next to the local ‘Rambo’ trying to shoot as many .308 rounds as possible while you try to shoot sub-MOA. Another stress could be added by having a friend randomly smack/tap you while shooting. Or better yet, have your wife tap you every time she thinks you are about to pull the trigger, and ask if it’s time to go home yet? If you can shoot sub-MOA with that going on, you’re a better man than me.
For snapshots, a buzzer really helps. Personally, I randomly have a snapshot target – about the size of the B zone in a IPSC target, placed from 25 to 100 meters out. Now, if you are using a buzzer during a busy range day, that can cause issues with recording the time difference, and at minimum it can just be darn unfriendly to your lane neighbor. A friend can better help with a tap and a timer, but there are other methods to improve snapshots.
If your range is limited, try the appleseed challenge targets at 25 meters. But if you are lucky your local range has a version of IPSC. That will be about some of the best practice that you can get. My local range has a version of IPSC that only allows for rifle or pistol at one time (different days). These challenges often include a change of target layouts, good guy/bad guy targets intermixed, different starting points including having to pickup and load a rifle after the buzzed rings, reloads, and other challenges such as having to pie a corner, or week side drills, often within the same target set. All of them are timed, and points taken off for misses and other procedural issues.
Under these IPSC like conditions you really get to see how much time is consumed via a messed up reload, or what stress does to your overall times. What’s your balance between speed and accuracy? Are you faster with your M1A or your HK91? Does a week and hold over the barrel improve your shooting, or hurt it? These things might be rifle dependent, but without real comparison times you are up to ‘guessing’ at the answer. In addition you can see how much you improve in time and accuracy when making gear changes.
Now a days, there’s probably more written about how to shoot, and how to improve shooting, than any other time in history. I don’t agree with everything written, but studying up on different styles of shooting, and trying them, can help you improve your overall rifle/pistol skills.
Here a are a few books and videos that I recommend:
1. Magpul Dynamics DVD series (Precision rifle, carbine, and pistol)
2. The Home Schooled Shootist: Training to Fight with a Carbine – by Joe Nobody. (There are some really great drills in this one. I just wish I had the land available to do them all); I’m also a fan of his ‘Holding Their Own’ novel series.
3. The Art Of The Rifle by Col. Jeff Cooper
4. Leather Sling and Shooting Positions by M/SGT James R. Owens (Ret)
5. Sight Alignment, Trigger Control & The Big Lie M/SGT James R. Owens (Ret)
6. Combined Arms Operations in Urban Terrain, FM 3-06.11. (A good overview of room clearing, and other urban specific shooting challenges) – BTW – great FM/ATTP for us veterans who still remember what the Berlin wall looked like. There’s been lots of advances in urban tactics since the good old days. And this manual covers many of them.
What kind of practical results can you expect? Since I started seriously studying, and practicing, a number of the drills from the list above, my results went from the middle of the pack in my local IPSC, to what is now usually between third and first place. That’s usually a jump of 15-20 positions. IPSC doesn’t focus too much on the use of cover, so it is important to remember that, and scarifies time for cover (in my opinion).
More important to me is that I have learned where I need to improve, and specifically how to improve. For example: my hardest target to get a A zone hit is after I have shot one target and have to transition to a second at a distance greater than about 2 meters. Even if there are more than one transition targets, it’s almost always that first transition that gets me. I just keep either over or under compensating. But I’ve gone from a “mis” to a D zone, to a C-B zone hit, within the same length of time. Dry fire transitions help the most here. Getting your body to stop on the second target, and have that stop point be sight aligned, turned out to be quite effective. Now I just need to time the trigger pull correctly.
Last, I’ve learned that when I think I shot way too slow, I usually end up with my best times, and best groups. That’s all about learning to compensate for adrenaline, and how it impacts your perception of time. There’s no way I could have identified specific skill set issues, and develop a plan to improve them, without practicing within a stressed environment.
Merry Christmas to all, – Robert from North Carolina
Economics and Investing:
K.A.F. sent a link to some fascinating maps: America’s Wealth Is Staggeringly Concentrated in the Northeast Corridor. (But take a look at the Bakken region of eastern North Dakota.)
Reader Tim R. suggested this article: Gun Stocks Soar, Gun Control ‘Dead as an Issue’
Pierre M. sent: North America to Drown in Oil as Mexico Ends Monopoly
Items from The Economatrix:
Proposal On Capitol Hill Would Nearly Double Federal Gas Tax
Odds ‘n Sods:
Eric Peters on Bug Out Vehicles. (Thanks to OSOM for the link.)
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Video: Former mayors discover membership in Bloomberg’s anti-gun group was kiss of death.
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R.B.S. sent: The Most Corrupt County In America (Dave Hodges)
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Chris M. sent: Google Acquires Boston Dynamics. (After all, what is Skynet without the hardware “to go with.”)
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B.B. suggested: Gun control: ‘What if we say no?’ – National Conservative