Mike Williamson’s Product Review: Numa Sport Glasses

Numa Sport Glasses “Chuck” are glasses you can stomp on.

These must be named after Chuck Norris.  They are tough, and flexible enough I even bent them completely in two.  They resumed normal shape in a few moments.  I tried tugging and bending the bows in different directions, bending and straightening.  They sprung back.  I folded them in half at the bridge.  They sprung back again.  The strength and memory of these things is impressive. I tried sitting on them, stepping on them open and closed, putting boxes down on them.  They show no damage.

The Chucks took a few days to wear in.  They were tight and a bit itchy at first, but once worn in, they were comfortable, while being very snug and hard to dislodge.  I’ve had no need for a head strap.  The lenses changed easily—just pull the frame and pop the lens out, and the new one in.  The glasses came with clear, smoke and copper lenses in a nylon case.  Prescription lenses are available.

They filter well, and allow clear vision without glare.  They fit closely enough to avoid peripheral light, without obstructing vision or getting sweaty inside.  They’re a nice addition to the many flavors of ballistic UV glasses out there, and it’s worth trying a pair to see if they work for you, especially if you find yourself damaging glasses in use.

Speaking technically, they surpass ANSI z87, and are marked on the inside of each temple “z87”.  This means they meet the government rating for ballistic protection shown here. They offer 100% protection against UVA, UVB and UVC.  They are anti-fog, have changeable lenses, and a scratch-resistant coating.  I haven’t managed to scratch them in my vehicle, while shooting or working, and I haven’t seen them fog in heat or cold.  I’m sure they have their limits, but all typical abuse just bounces off them.  I wore them as I would any other work/combat glass, and had no issues.  They’re in my van as my on-hand glasses for driving and working with tools.

Numa glasses come with a lifetime warranty against breakage.  I haven’t been able to take advantage of it because they haven’t broken, despite some hard use.

This combination retails at $99 MSRP, on par with other professional eyewear, and are cheaper in some outlets.
 
Editor’s Disclaimer (per FTC File No. P034520): I accept cash-paid advertising. To the best of my knowledge, as of the date of this posting, none of my advertisers that sell the products mentioned in this article have solicited me or paid me to write any reviews or endorsements, nor have they provided me any free or reduced-price gear in exchange for any reviews or endorsements. I am not a stock holder in any company. I do, however, benefit from sales through the SurvivalBlog Amazon Store. If you click on one of our Amazon links and then “click through” to order ANY product from Amazon.com (not just the ones listed in our catalog), then we will earn a modest sales commission. Michael Z. Williamson was sent a test pair of glasses to conduct this review.

T.M.’s Book Review: The Debt Bomb

©2012 Senator Tom Coburn with John Hart
Published by Thomas Nelson, Nashville Tennessee
349 pages with numerous charts, graphs, index, and list of official reports available to the public.
ISBN: 978-1-59555-467-3

I recently read The Debt Bomb: A Bold Plan to Stop Washington from Bankrupting America. The title tells us exactly what this well-written book is about. Our national debt is a bomb more dangerous than any nuke or chemical weapon known to man. While we spend billions chasing a few terrorists around the world, our politicians are killing our economy, and our freedoms, with rampant, unfunded spending.

Senator Coburn lays out the facts and history of our debt problem in thirteen chapters and three appendixes with a summary of his thoughts in the final seventeen pages. A Republican from Oklahoma, the author castigates members of both major political parties for what they have done to help bring our economy to the edge of chaos. The book is full of stories of politician’s gone loony with our money, and ways to prevent their excesses in the future.

As I prepare this review, the news media is full of ‘fiscal cliff’ reports, name-calling, the sky is falling, and assigning of blame for our economic woes. The US Senate is debating legislation to send financial aid to victims of Hurricane Sandy with numerous unrelated earmarks attached to increase our deficit. Obviously, it is still business as usual. At a time of what I consider a national emergency, our elected officials should be lined up with ideas and proposals to get us out of debt, not pile on more.

We have just that in this book full of specific proposals to solve a specific problem. There are also reports on the author’s web site addressing the problem of our debt. Some folks believe the debt bomb will cause the collapse of our economy and our nation. As individuals, we can address our concerns to our elected officials. If they are unresponsive, we can fire them.

On a personal level for preppers, this book is a good case for eliminating our household debt. A lack of debt makes your home, vehicles, and possessions yours, not the bank. You have no worry of foreclosure or repossession. The money you save in interest payments can be used for supplies.           

During the Great Depression, farmers in the Dust Bowl lost their family farms over small mortgages they could not pay because of one failed crop. Because of the recent housing bubble collapse, tens of thousands of families have been evicted for failure to pay their mortgages. Thousands of properties are mortgaged for more than they are worth and the owners are stuck in a financial nightmare. Some people believe it is un-American to not have a mortgage and car payments. Wrong. Do everything you can to eliminate your family debt and you increase the security of your entire family more than a full pantry or a well stocked gun locker.

I recommend this book for preppers because it is so readable and full of common sense.

Pat’s Product Review: Hoo Rag Bandanas

My dear friend, the late Chris Janowsky, who ran the World Survival Institute, in Tok, Alaska was famous for always wearing a bandana on his head. And that bandana wasn’t just a fashion statement. Chris wasn’t a fashion trendsetter in the least. Janowsky was, probably the best wilderness survival instructor in the world. The US Marine Corps sent their winter survival instructors to Chris for their training, and in return, those instructors would train US Marines in winter wilderness survival techniques. Now, if the US Marines thought so highly of Janowsky, that says it all in my book. As an aside, Chris Janowsky put out quite a few VHS tapes on wilderness survival, and it would be worth your time to find them and add them to your collection.
 
Hoo Rags has come out with a line of bandanas in a variety of designs, colors and patterns. Now, if you are serious about survival, you really need to add a Hoo Rag to your Bug Out Bag. A Hoo Rag only takes up a very little space and weighs practically nothing – you can even carry one in your pocket. Now, the Hoo Rag isn’t just used as a bandana, it has a number of uses. While a bandana is a handy thing to have in a hot climate, for keeping sweat out of your eyes, that is only the beginning of the uses you can use this for.
 
For you gals, you can use a Hoo Rag for a pony tail rag – and as I mentioned, they come in a variety of colors and designs – and if you wear your hair in a pony tail most of the time, you will have a pretty cool survival tool on your person at all times. A face rag can also be made out of a Hoo Rag, this keeps dirty and dust out of your mouth – and it’s a pretty good thing to have if you ride motorcycles – I used to, and always got more than my share of bugs in my teeth! If you’re out in a desert area, the Hoo Rag can be made into a Balaclava Rag, covering your hear from the hot sun – believe me, if you’ve ever been out in hot area, without a hat, you’ll really appreciate some form or head covering.
 
Ladies, once again, you can make a fashion statement by wearing the Hoo Rag as an Alice Rag – you don’t need a beret when you can wrap this around your hair and keep the hair out of your face. Also, a neck rag can be fashioned, making you into a cowgirl of sorts – it’ll drive the boys crazy. How about a neck warmer in cold climates. When I was a teen, back in Chicago, I used to have to stand on the street corner, waiting for a bus to take me to school – and we are talking a lot of below zero temps – it can make a big difference in keeping you much warmer when you neck is covered.  You can also wrap a Hoo Rag around your head and look like a Pirate – once again, covering your head from the hot sun, as well as making a fashion statement – believe me, I’ve seen plenty of guys and gals with a Pirate rag on their head. How about as a good ol’ fashion bandana, just like Chris Janowsky use to wear all the time?  The possibilities are seemingly endless to the ways you can use a Hoo Rag, and with some thought, I’m betting you can come up with a lot more uses for a Hoo Rag.
 
When I was a kid, it was quite the thing to carry a “Hankie” in your pocket – for wiping that runny nose. You can also, in an emergency, use a Hoo Rag as a bandage to help control bleeding, or use it as a tourniquet to stop arterial bleeding. Chris Janowsky always advocated carrying plastic bags in your Bug Out Bag, to help you collect food and berries along the way in a wilderness survival situation. You could fashion a make-shift “bag” out of a Hoo Rag and use that to collect nuts and berries along the way – sure beats putting stuff in your pockets, doesn’t it? In a pinch, you could use a Hoo Rag as an aid to starting a fire if you don’t have some dry kindling – neat idea, huh? How about tying the hands of a bad guy, with his hands behind his back, if you don’t have handcuffs with you? Sure beats having a bad guy’s hands free to do more harm. Ever get some bad blisters on your feet, and didn’t have anything to cover them with? Well, you can fashion a covering over those blisters with a Hoo Rag, couldn’t you?
 
I could probably think of half a dozen or more uses, that you could use a Hoo Rag for, but take a little bit of time yourselves, and come up with some ideas of your own, as to how you can use one of these rags in a survival situation. Oh wait, I just thought of another one – how about as a water pre-filter – to filter out some sediment in dirty water, before boiling the water to make it safe to drink? See, there are lot of uses a person can come up with for a simply piece of well-made cloth.
 
For the life of me, I can’t come up with a good reason to not have a Hoo Rag in your Bug Out Bag, or on your person. You can put one in your pants pocket, in a shirt pocket, and you ladies, you can put one or two in your purse – they don’t take-up any room and weigh next to nothing. Why not add this simply “survival device” to your survival gear? It can make a big difference when you need it. Right now, Hoo Rag is offering free-shipping on all orders, and the variety of different patterns and colors available to you will blow your mind. A Hoo Rag is $14.95 and well worth the investment – why not order several as gifts? I’d really like to hear back from SurvivalBlog readers, with some of your ideas for different uses of the Hoo Rag. I’ll bet you all will fill-up my e-mail box. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

Letter Re: The Heavy Equipment Threat

Captain Rawles:
I’ve been enjoying and learning valuable information from your books and your blog, and thought I’d share some of my expertise in hope of helping others to prepare.
 
If, like me, you’ve been slowly adding more security to your bug-in location or retreat, you’ve been adding perimeter defenses such as fencing, detectors, etc. in order to prevent people and/or vehicles from easily gaining access to your property.  If you have more funds than I do, then you’ve probably installed harder defenses, such as bollards, ditches, and maybe even concertina wire.  These measures will stop most vehicular threats, and oh, sure — nothing is going to stop indirect fire (mortars, artillery) or attack from the air, but there is a much simpler way to gain access that we all need to be aware of:   heavy equipment.
 
Having worked in construction for many years. I, like thousands of others, have acquired and collected keys to most types of heavy equipment, to include bulldozers, front end loaders, and excavators.  Bottom line is, there are too many keys out there, and unlike most vehicles, most manufacturers use just one key for all their equipment,  A good example is Caterpillar who for at least thirty years has used the exact same key for all their various types of earthmoving machines.  This makes it all the easier for someone to “borrow” or steal one, and if TSHTF, there will be a lot of equipment sitting around at abandoned quarries and job sites.
 
While much as been written about the threat of gangs or other marauders using stolen APCs or other armored vehicles, it would be much easier to use heavy equipment to attack your place.  Here’s one scenario:
 
A group steals a medium sized front end loader and welds thick steel plates surrounding the cab.  They fill the tires with foam (some machines already have solid-filled tires) and head for lucrative targets.  Most loaders will go down the road at 25 mph, so there’s no need to bother with a transport truck.  They approach your perimeter…you see them coming and open fire…the machine doesn’t stop because the engine is in the rear and hard to hit.  Most likely, they just go right through your gate.  The stoutest locks and hinges will be no match for a 15 to 20 ton behemoth.  If for whatever reason your gate looks like it might be too much trouble, they will gain access at some other point.  Ditches can simply be filled in, bollards can be dug out of the ground or covered with a mound of dirt, same with fences or other obstacles.  So how do you stop it?
 
First, try shooting the tires, hopefully more than just one.  There’s a good chance they’re not filled and will rapidly deflate.  It won’t get far with flat tires.  If that doesn’t work, try flanking it and pour as many high-powered rounds as you can into the engine compartment.  Even if all you can cause is a coolant or oil leak, it won’t get very far.  If you have tracer rounds, you could go for the fuel tank.  Most newer loaders have it under the engine, some older ones have it on the left side of the cab.
 
The other method is to burn it.  The center of the machine has many rubber hydraulic hoses and will usually be covered in oil and grease.  A few Molotov cocktails should do the trick, but consider that the machine will be accompanied by armed men on foot, who will have to be taken out first.  Except for the tires, the same would apply for tracked machines. 
 
Hope this helps.  Keep prepping! – B.B.D.

Letter Re: Power Grid Transmission Lines for G.O.O.D.?

Mr. Rawles,
I’ve browsed your site for about a year off and on, and have read Patriots, and am just starting Survivors. Great work I must say, keep up the good work!

My question for you is one I’ve tickled in my mind since heading to a camping trip this last summer. While we were driving, and I was mindlessly staring out the side window, I noticed the large power grid high tension lines. (you know the ones I’m talking about with the large steel towers, holding a dozen or so lines high above the earth). I had a day dream while watching them about bugging out on foot, and I was following them to our bug out location, which is quite near where we were going camping.

What started out as a small day dream actually got me thinking that following the right-pf-ways for these transmission lines wouldn’t be a bad way to Get Out of Dodge (G.O.O.D.) on foot, since they’re off the beaten path, and are easily mapped, using Google maps/earth. The only problems I foresee with using them as G.O.O.D. routes are that they are somewhat exposed, as the ground below them is often well trimmed (though this could be an advantage for faster movement to G.O.O.D. quicker), and that they can and do, span locations that are not easily traversed on foot, such as rivers and crevasses. 

I browsed your site and did not see any information on the power grid (though admittedly your archives are huge and I wouldn’t be surprised if I missed anything) with respect to getting out of Dodge. I live in the northern Seattle metro area, and planning G.O.O.D. routes is a nightmare, but following the power grid lines appears to be a relatively good option for me, as they ironically to run close to two of my bugout locations.

What are you or your reader’s thoughts on following these power grid lines, good or bad, and do you happen to know of any resources that would have an actual map of them, as opposed to using Google maps? Or do you have any other ideas that I may have not thought of, such as utilizing storm drains? They were mentioned in your novel Patriots.

Thank you for your time Mr. Rawles. – Jesse

JWR Replies: Depending on the locale, most high tension lines pass over private property, using easements. This would make following the lines dicey, at best. I generally wouldn’t recommend it. (This could be a great way to run into confrontation after confrontation.) But to be ready for a true “worst case’ where roads are impassable, I suppose it would be wise to at least map out these routes. Google Earth can be a handy tool for doing so, particularly in forested areas, where the swaths of cleared trees for the power lines stand out distinctly.

Recipe of the Week:

Katy’s Kentucky Chili

1 lb ground or finely diced meat
Chili Powder to taste (I tend to use a lot – 1 small jar or equivalent)
3 8 oz cans tomato sauce
1 8 oz can diced tomatoes (optional)
24 oz water (3 tomato sauce cans measure)
3 15 oz cans Ranch Style Beans
1 cup macaroni or broken spaghetti pieces

In a dutch oven (or similar sized pot) brown meat until done, drain the excess fat & return to pot. Add chili powder, stir into meat until fully dispersed.  Add tomato sauce, diced tomatoes, water and Ranch Style Beans.  Bring to boil & let it simmer for a few minutes.  You can precook the macaroni or add it directly to the pot & let it cook in the chili (a great way to conserve water if cooking in a disaster situation).  Once the macaroni or spaghetti is done, you are ready to serve.

Serve with crackers, chips, Fritos, etc., and top with cheese (cheddar, Monterrey Jack, etc.  I even have a daughter that puts Parmesan on hers).

Variations

You can  use any kind of canned beans available, such as black, pinto or kidney.  But the Ranch Style beans add a lot of flavor you otherwise do not get.

Add fresh chopped onion, celery and or bell pepper after browning the meat.  Let it cook for a few minutes before adding the remaining ingredients.

Vegetarian – Cook without the meat and eliminate the pasta.  Serve over rice – combined with the beans in the chili, you have a complete protein (or pretty close).

Cook without the pasta, serve over spaghetti & you have chili pasta.  Top with any cheese you may desire & serve with garlic bread.

Cook without the beans and less tomato sauce and water & serve over hot dogs.

Customize this recipe the way you want – it is very flexible.

Chef’s Notes:

Try this on a cold winter night and you will find you do not have any leftovers for the next day.  And if you do – lucky you.  Its even better warmed up.

This meal can be as inexpensive or as expensive as you want to make it.  Best of all, it can be made entirely from stored goods & is ready to eat as soon as all of the ingredients are incorporated – usually 30 minutes or less.

Useful Recipe and Cooking Links:

The Best Chili You Will Ever Taste

Canned Chili

Currently Available as Free Kindle e-Books:

Pizza Pie in the Sky: A Complete Guide to Pizza

Katherine’s Southern Cooking

How to Grow Potatoes: Planting and Harvesting Organic Food From Your Patio, Rooftop, Balcony, or Backyard Garden

Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!

Economics and Investing:

Tom Cloud: How to Sell Gold Without Reporting It. (Thanks to H.L. for the link.)

The Political Implications of America’s Oil & Gas Boom – James Kwak Interview

Euros discarded as impoverished Greeks resort to bartering

Forget discouraged, 3 million workers hopelessly unemployed

Items from The Economatrix:

Fed Becoming Worried About Stimulus Side Effects

Private Sector Job Gains Offer Hope for Labor Market

65 Percent Of Americans Believe That 2013 Will Be A Year Of Economic Difficulty

Retirement No More: Median Net Worth At Lowest Since 1969

The Difficult Part Is Still Ahead…Many Wall Street Experts Expect The Bond Bubble To Burst Very Soon

Odds ‘n Sods:

Some good news from Canada: Matt Gurney: Ian Thomson acquitted after shooting at his attackers. BTW, donations to help Ian Thomson recoup his huge legal expenses can be sent to:

Ed Burlew, In Trust
16 John Street
Thornhill, Ontario L3T 1X8 (or phone: 1-888-gun-loss)

Barrister Ed Burlew’s bona fides can be found here.

   o o o

Though nearly all of the dealers in the country seem to be sold out, Bob at Ready Made Resources wrote to tell me that they have three DPMS AR-15s still on hand: Two TAC2s and one Recon. These are not listed at their web site, so please call for details: 1(800) 627-3809.

   o o o

Prison Inmates Using Recently Published Pistol Permit Map to Intimidate Guards

   o o o

File under G., somewhere between “Global Warming, Unanimous Agreement” and “Gore, Al, Planetary Savior”: China is experiencing unusual chills this winter with its national average temperature hitting the lowest in 28 years, and meanwhile, we read: Russia is engulfed in the harshest winter in over 70 years, with temperatures dropping as low as -50 degrees Celsius (-58 Fahrenheit).

   o o o

To also file under G.: An article from what G. Gordon Liddy calls “Washington’s quaint little alternative newspaper, the Washington Bleep“: White House weighs broad gun-control agenda in wake of Newtown shootings. Their perceived “problem” is your birthright! Please contact your Senators and Congressional Representatives, and tell them NO to civilian disarmament, and that magazines deserve the same Second Amendment protection as the guns themselves.

Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“I believe we have long passed the point where the good people of the world are in the majority.  Good, reliable, honest people are a minority.  If we had a severe world-wide crisis now, where governments would be powerless to help, I think we would have massive social unrest and anarchy on our hands.  Some would prey on the innocent, while few would rise in their defense.  Presently, any crisis or war short of collapse will only engender a call from the world-wide majorities for more government power – not less – especially now that a so called “conservative” American President has stated that a government ‘Safety net’ is a legitimate right for all people to expect. ”  – Joel M. Skousen, in The Secure Home, (3rd Edition, 2006.)

Notes from JWR:

I’m sad to report that John Noveske died in an automobile accident on Friday night, near Grants Pass, Oregon. John was the president of Noveske Rifle Works. Please keep his family in your prayers. Our sincere condolences.

—

Today we present another entry for Round 44 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. B.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. C.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, D.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials, E.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value) and F.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value.), and E.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 44 ends on January 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Wilderness Fire Making: We Have Ignition, by Brad M.

I have been a scoutmaster for 18 years. It is a lot of fun teaching scouts how to make fire using unorthodox methods.  Seeing the look in their eyes as they get their first fire built in the outdoors using no matches is a great experience.  As a matter of fact, in winter camps where the ground is not frozen I like to use a trench fire pit with rocks in it, then bury it and sleep on top for a very cozy and warm night. I too was bitten by the survival bug when I was a young scout, and the first priority in survival is ‘keeping your wits about you” so you can focus on what is important.  One real force multiplier in helping to keep people calm is a fire.  It can warm the heart as well as the body, but it doesn’t have to be a bonfire by any means.  As a matter of fact a small fire using only sticks can do just about everything you need, and is much easier to leave no trace with when you are done.  Here are a few simple methods anyone can use to get a nice little fire started.  Please remember that little is the key word in a survival or bug out situation.  Cowboys used to light a very small fire just big enough to put their coffee pot on, because they ate their food cold, and a hot drink was all they needed to warm their spirits. The methods below are simple and inexpensive methods of turning the first spark into a flame. 
Before we start, I would like to say that I have no financial interest in any company or manufacturer that I list, and only do so out of my experiences over the years with them.  No matter how much I would like to have them sponsor my scouts, the only thing I get from them is the potential opportunity to pay Uncle Sam his Tax.
 
IGNITION SOURCES:
Matches: enough said, unless it is windy in which case you may only have a 0.5 second flame.  Let’s read on, shall we?
 
Lighter: ditto…but wait what if your lighter is out of fuel?  Well if it still has a good flint, then you have a handy little spark generator.  I prefer the older Zippo style lighters since I don’t have to worry about a seal drying out and I can store some lighter fluid for many refills.  It also lets me have a refill of flints right in the bottom of the lighter.  Zippo even now offers a small 4 oz. refill canister that you can place into your pack and will not spill.  It will provide you enough fluid for one full refill of your lighter.  If you are thinking longer term SHTF scenario then storing fluid or using disposable lighters would be wise.  Then again if you keep reading I have some other ideas for you to consider as backups.
 
Permanent Matches:  These are an interesting combination between a Lighter, and a “Ferrocerium bar” (below). It comes with a small reservoir which you fill with lighter fluid.  The ‘cap’ has a magnesium striker it with a glass wick that is supposed to burn up to 15,000 times. The wick is in the screw top lid which extends down into the lighter fluid.  You strike the magnesium stick on the side of the container to ignite.
 
Fire Piston: The fire piston uses the friction from compressing air to get an ember from tinder.  You can buy them on amazon, but you can also find a variety of videos showing how to make your own, and how they work online.  If you are at all skeptical try searching Charles’ Law or Boyle’s Law on the Internet regarding pressure and temperature effects on gases.
 
Flint and Steel:  If you can find some flint, and you have a piece of high carbon steel then all you do is strike the two together and you get a spark.  These are usually used with char-cloth (cloth which has been charred) to catch the spark, but you could use a number of items to catch them.  To use it effectively you would hold the char-cloth just over the top of the flint and strike down onto the flint with a piece of steel, hoping to catch the spark on the cloth.  Videos of making and using char-cloth are also available online.
 
Ferrocerium fire starters:  Sometimes mistakenly referred to as “flint”, these come in many different styles from the straight bar you slide across a piece of steel to create a nice spark, to the Magnesium fire starter bars.  These all will get you a great spark, but remember that you want to pull your Ferrocerium across a stationary piece of steel so you can put your spark where you want it.  If you try to slide the steel down the bar you may ruin the tinder nest / pile you have created when you hit it.  Used with Dryer Lint or Steel wool, you will have a fire the first time, every time.  You can buy these inexpensively just about anywhere, but my personal favorite is the one made by Strike Force which has a small storage compartment in the handle.
 
Magnifying glass:   Everyone remembers burning insects with a magnifying glass, and yes you can get things to smolder, but you really need a good amount of sun to get a magnifying glass to start a fire.  To do it you need to focus the brightest part of the light coming through the glass into the smallest most compact point you can make it, and then hold it there.  It will work on paper, and really dry small vegetation, but you do have to be patient.  You could use a disassembled Camera Lens or Binoculars for the lens as well.
 
9V batter and fine steel wool:  I find that the finer the steel wool (0000), the better it lights.  Also spread it out just a little bit to get more air to the fire, and you don’t need a lot.  Just rub the steel wool across the top of the battery and the electrical shorting sparks will ignite the oil on the steel wool.  (The oil is what helps prevent rusting on the steel wool)  DO NOT STORE THE TWO TOGETHER…it gets hot fast. You can also use a standard 1.5v AA, C, or even a D batter, but then you have to stretch the steel wool from one end of the battery to the other, and it gets a little awkward.   A little goes a long way with this. Fine steel wool will also work very well with a Ferrocerium rod and will light right up.
 
Potassium Permanganate (a powder) and Glycerin (a viscous fluid):  Potassium Permanganate is an oxidant which can be used to sterilize water, treat ulcers like canker sores, and a general topical disinfectant, but it will stain the affected area purple. It is used to treat candidiasis (superficial fungal infections like Oral Thrush and Vaginitis) and will neutralize Strychnine (poison).  Glycerin, or Glycerol, may be used as a laxative (2-10 ml used as a suppository or enema), and has been used to treat psoriasis, burns, calluses, and other minor skin irritations.  It works as a bacterial desiccant (it removes moisture through absorption) on contact so it can also help with periodontal diseases.  Okay back to the point, when you create a small mound of Potassium Permanganate with a small depression in the top, and then place a few drops of Glycerin in the depression you get a very impressive exothermic reaction which will start a fire, or even can be used to initiate a thermite reaction.  It takes a bit of time for it to occur but don’t put your hands over it to feel for heat.  It happens very quickly and is very hot when it happens.  I recommend testing this method, but don’t do it on your kitchen table with a thick folded up piece of heavy duty tinfoil.  It will go through it and make your wife very unhappy with the black mark it leaves.  Trust me on that one.
 
FRICTION FIRES:  There are many different ways to start a fire using friction.  The hand drill method, for example, where you spin a stick on a flatter piece of wood with a hole in the bottom and something to catch the ember below (blisters galore of you don’t wear gloves, and you will get tired very quickly).  The old Bow drill method (below) which is better, to the fire plough where you create a long notch in a piece of wood and then slide a stick back and forth in the notch and push the ember out onto your tinder pile.
 
Hand Drill: You will need a straight stick with a narrowed end (Drill), a notched piece of wood with a depression for holding the narrowed end of the stick (the notch should extend into the bottom of the depression for air movement). You will also need a piece of Leather, or metal under the notch to catch the ember. The notched board goes on the ground and you hold it in place by putting your foot on it or kneeling on it.  .  The drill should be standing straight up out of the depression, and held in place by your two palms.  By spinning the drill between your palms, and pressing down you will create friction and over time a smoking ember.  You will continually have to move your hands back up to the top of the drill as they will move down as you continue to spin and push down on the drill.  When you see some smoke coming from the depression then you can remove it to see if you have an ember.  When you have an ember you will need to move it quickly to your tinder and begin the process of nurturing it into a flame.
 
Bow Drill:  This one is probably the most complicated in that you must have: a straight piece of wood about 8-12 inches long which is narrowed on both ends (drill), a notched piece of wood with a depression for holding the narrowed end of the drill (the notch should extend into the bottom of the depression for air movement), a flexible but strong piece of wood about 16 to 24 inches long that has a slight natural curve to it (the bow) , a string (bow string) and a piece of something hard enough to withstand the heat from the drills friction with a depression to help control the top of the spinning drill.  You will also need a piece of Leather, or metal under the notch to catch the ember.  The notched board goes on the ground and you hold it in place by putting your foot on it or kneeling on it.  Then you have the drill standing straight up out of the notch.  The bow string goes around the drill (one wrap only) and then on the top of the drill is held by the hard small piece of wood and your hand (gloves are a good idea).  The bow string should be tight enough that when you push the bow back and forth it will spin the drill but not bind on it.  Once you have this balancing act in place, you move the bow back and forth until you see an appreciable amount of smoke coming from the notch then you look under it and see if you have an ember.  If you do then transfer it to your tinder immediately and start the gentle blowing that will bring you a flame.  If you don’t have any In-Laws that frustrate you, then this will help you understand what frustration is all about.  If you can do this, you can do anything.  This is a really primitive ‘art form’ method of making fire.

Getting that first spark to actually ignite your tinder is a little harder that it appears on the silver screen.  I have had many scouts go grab a handful of what they think is dry bark, or weeds only to find that it is still too wet, or the oils in them only smoke no matter what they do.  One of my favorite examples was an episode of a survival BASED reality television show where they gave the contestants a magnesium fire bar.  They were holding the magnesium side, and striking the flint side with a machete.  They were getting a pretty good spark too, but there was NO WAY they were getting a fire.  My wife, whom I love dearly, was sitting there saying “Oh that was a good one”, for every spark they got.  I on the other hand was sitting there thinking, “They would die in a real survival situation”.  It wasn’t until I explained to her that you can scrape magnesium into a little pile, hold the fire starter right down on the pile, and scraping the blade (held at a slightly obtuse angle towards the pile ) down the ‘flint’ side so that the sparks land in the magnesium and “Heywhadoyaknow” you have fire.
 
TINDER:
Ethanol based hand cleansers: these come in pocket bottles or pumps and the 10% ethanol will burn for a short time.  A spark can ignite this but the ethanol will evaporate quickly.  I only list this because of the dual purpose this item has.  I don’t recommend using any type of “Scout Water” (read: Flammable liquids) to start a fire due to the dangers involved.
 
Cotton balls and Vaseline:  These will burn once ignited just like a candle will.  If you spread out the cotton so it is not just a clump, you can light it with a good spark.
 
Paraffin and Cotton balls:  Very similar to above, just different substance.
 
Sawdust and paraffin blocks:  Fill the depressions in a paper based egg carton with a mixture of melted paraffin mixed with sawdust (from wood not particle board due to the glue).  Let them cool, and cut or break apart the individual parts, with the cardboard attached and it can be lit with a lighter, or match and will burn like a candle.
 
Dryer Lint:   This is my personal favorite.  Simply take the lint out of your dryer and place it into a pill bottle, Ziploc baggie or other water resistant container and it can be started with the smallest spark.  This will also win you points with the significant other by cleaning out the lint filter.  With it being so flammable you may want to confirm that your dryer vent is clean and connected.  This is especially important if you have a furnace, water heater, or if your dryer is heated by Natural Gas (flame) in the same room. Remember; safety first.  Dryer Lint will also work very well with a Ferrocerium rod on the first strike.
 
Wax and newspaper:  Dip pieces of newspaper in paraffin wax and it burns like a candle. This one is similar to the sawdust but you can leave some of the paper not covered in paraffin and it will ignite easier.  You can do this with cardboard or any other paper product as well.  The paraffin only makes it a little slower burning and a little more durable.
 
Gun powder:  Yes you could remove a bullet from a cartridge with a pair of pliers and use some of the powder inside to catch your spark, but it is a violent reaction so if you are desperate enough to try this, PLEASE BE CAREFUL. (All the usual safety warnings and legal disclaimers apply.)
 
FIRE TYPES AND PURPOSES:

TeePee:  This is your typical campfire where you have sticks in the shape of a TeePee over your tinder and kindling.  It is great to keep warm, and puts out a lot of light.  This would be fine if you are trying to be found, but not if you don’t want to give away your location.
 
Parallel Fire: This fire has two logs, one next to the other, and the fire burns starts at one end and burns towards the other.  You need to have them slightly separated at one end and more so at the other.   You build the fire at the wider end, and can put a pot right on top and air can still get to the fire to keep it going, and the log does provide a bit of light discipline, but there are better ways to achieve this.  This one also provides some good heat. 
 
Swedish Fire log: Take a log and quarter one end (only one end if possible, but if you go through then just bind the bottom back together).  Into the end where you have partially split it, stuff some tinder down into the split and light it.  This will burn for a long time, and can provide heat and light when needed.  This is also be called the “Swedish Torch” so keep light discipline in mind.
 
Trench Fire: For a Trench fire, you will need to dig a trench and then build a long fire in it.  The idea is that it can burn for a longer period of time as the fire moves through the trench from one end to the other.  Depending on the depth, it can hide the light from the flame pretty well, and you can put a grate across it to cook on.  You need to be sure it is not so deep though that air cannot get to it and put it out.
 
Reflector Fire: A reflector fire is basically any fire built next to a block to prevent heat or light to escape in a certain direction.  These can reflect heat into a shelter, and help block light from moving, however the light can then again reflect off of whatever it hits and in the dark, the glow is enough.

Log Cabin: A log cabin fire is a fire where you stack the outer ‘walls’ as you would in a log cabin.  It is great to cook over because the heat tends to leave the top, in the same manner as the chimney of a house.  It too provides good heat, and light when wanted.
 
Dakota Fire: The Dakota fire [pit] is a convection fire, which provides a great fire with very little light.  First check the direction of the wind if possible to help your fire burn better.  Dig a hole in the ground about 1 foot wide at the top, 4 to 6 inches wider at the base on one side, and at least 1 foot deep.  The wider part of the base should be on the downwind side of the hole.  Then dig a second hole, with the closest part of the hole, about a foot away from the first one, on the upwind side of the first hole .  The second hole should be six inches across, and dug at an angle towards the bottom of the first hole.  In the first hole build your small fire and after you get it going you will see that air is moving from the second hole into the first one to keep the fire going, and it will become more efficient and put off less smoke due to the conductive air movement.
 
Fire stoves:  These have been around for years, and have been made from everything from a number 10 can (Hobo Stoves) to some of the wood gas stoves like the Sierra Stove.  I list these because they burn for heat, use the same materials that a campfire would, and last for a long time providing a stable cooking surface.  There are videos on the web on how to make wood gas stoves that you can build and put in your B.O.B. or Get Home Bag (G.H.B.)
 
Well there it is.  If you can’t get a fire started with the instructions above, then please be sure to live in the middle of a large population center so you don’t have to suffer to long in the event of a natural disaster or socioeconomic crisis.  Don’t get me wrong, a fire is not difficult, but you should know how to do it before you need it.  It is also very cool to be able to show your kids, friends, or others you want to impress how to make a fire without matches, or a lighter. For those who wish to be proficient at it a little bit of practice is all you need.  Remember when you are cold, hungry, and out in the middle of nowhere, a fire can save your life.  Just remember to think about what kind of fire you really need. 
 
Keep your powder (and your tinder) dry!

Letter Re: Just In Case

I was glad to read in M.L.’s article “Just In Case” that he packs some form of flashlight for the train commute. I wonder if he realizes the single-most important use for it would be inside a tunnel. A grid-down situation will stop subway and above-ground light-rail trains which operate on electricity delivered by overhead wire or energized third rail. Grid-down will also bring at least a momentary stop to diesel-powered trains if the signal system goes dark. Earthquake, terror attack, or even a derailment are other ways one might find themselves onboard a train that suddenly gets stopped inside a tunnel.

In addition to the Los Angeles subway, M.L.’s commute might involve several other tunnels if the initial rail journey from home is out of the suburbs or outlying canyon country north or northwest of Los Angeles. Both areas use rail lines which have several tunnels, two of which are about a mile in length. One of these mile-long tunnels is just outside Chatsworth; the other is near Sylmar. If it becomes necessary to evacuate from a train in such a tunnel, personal lighting will be crucial. One additional concern, in the event the locomotive is not shut down in a reasonable amount of time, is that the interior of the tunnel might become filled with diesel exhaust.

Rail commuters in New York, New Jersey, Seattle, and Portland also have the potential of finding themselves stopped inside a tunnel. And long-distance travelers on Amtrak trains pass through numerous tunnels, some of them quite long, on certain routes. Of the many tunnels which the Empire Builder train between Seattle and Chicago passes through, two of them are more than seven miles in length, one of these being northeast of Libby, Montana, the other being under Stevens Pass in the Washington Cascades. Imagine having to walk your way out of the middle of a seven-mile long tunnel. You had better have some spare batteries for that light.

One final thought. While most commuters become familiar with the landmarks and communities along the freeway, very few of them pay attention to where they are during a train ride. If getting home is the ultimate goal, it’s important for rail commuters like M.L. to take note of the location of communities, stores, infrastructure, and general terrain along their route. In addition to tunnels, are there bridges, gang-infested areas, or other “challenges” on the rail line you would need to be aware of in the event of an emergency? – Bruce in Idaho

Letter Re: Argentina Versus Chile as Offshore Havens

Regarding Doug Casey’s linked article on Argentina: The Freest Place in the World.  Seriously?  That country does all the things we fear the US might do.  Rampant inflation?  Check.  Confiscate retirement accounts?  Check.  Currency controls & dollar-sniffing dogs?  Check.  Crony socialism and capricious Diktat replacing rule of law?  Check.  Punitive taxes on the productive, such as farmer-exporters?  Check.  Hitler-style appeals to nationalism to justify seizure of assets (such as NPF, the largest oil company in the country) or to provoke rows with foreigners (Falklands).  Check.  Profound corruption?  Check.  Argentina is cheap for a reason.  Refer to FerFAL (An Argentine who publishes information on prepping from first hand experience in Argentina) for more reasons as to why that is so.  It’s a banana republic populated by physically attractive residents.  And with Cretina (Oops, I mean Christina) Kirschner as an Evita Peron wannabe.

My spouse is from Chile.  I grew up bilingual and fit in there quite well.  Our kids will be dual citizens.  Yeah, it costs more than Argentina.  There is a price for the rule of law and stability.  Chile offers more of that than any other Latin country.  Good grief, the left-wing former finance minister (Andres Velasco) was so fiscally conservative that he squirreled away windfall money from the copper boom for a rainy day….which came with the earthquake in 2009.  To the extent Chile had a “stimulus”, they paid cash.  To repeat:  That was from a left-winger.  And when push came to shove, Pinochet forced freedom (yes, I see the irony).  Notably, even the Left left-most of Pinochet’s free-market reforms unchanged.  Were I to bug out overseas (a debate for another day, I tend to view a bad US as better than most alternatives), it would be to Chile.  It is the most stable of the Latin countries.  If I wanted a worst case glimpse of what the US could be, and perhaps shall be, I’d visit Argentina.  Argentina is a mistress (popular concept in Latin America, my wife is violently closed minded about it), Chile is a wife. – J.H. in Ohio

Economics and Investing:

75 Economic Numbers From 2012 That Are Almost Too Crazy To Believe

Reader “Rock Farm” recommended a piece by Victor Davis Hanson: Very Scary Times

Putin Saves French Actor From Tax Slavery With Russian Citizenship

Items from The Economatrix:

My Name Is Cash

New Gold for a Scary New World

Moody’s Says “Fiscal Cliff” Deal Doesn’t End Credit Downgrade Risk

2013 Predictions:  S&P 500 Plunges, Gold Soars

“Panic Buying” In Gold, Just Four Days Into 2013, A New Gold Milestone Has Already Been Passed

Odds ‘n Sods:

All of the major firearms industry vendors are gearing up for SHOT Show, 2013. It will be held January 15-18 at the Sands Expo & Convention Center in Las Vegas, Nevada. A lot of our friends and associates will be there. For example, Mil-Comm lubricants will have a booth there (Booth # 4227) and Italian Gun Grease will be sharing a booth with Hero Guns (Booth #3727.) They will also have their own booth at the SHOT Show Media Day at the Range, which will be on Monday, January 14, 2013 at the Boulder Pistol & Rifle Range, Boulder City, Nevada.

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Tim J. sent: FBI: More People Killed with Hammers, Clubs Each Year than Rifles

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County Sheriffs Can Block Federal Gun Control. (Thanks to Jim W. for the link.)

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Jeff H. liked this piece by Bob Owens: Of alarms, militias, and destiny