Note from JWR:

Today we present another entry for Round 45 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 45 ends on March 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Helicopter and Fixed Wing Drones for Retreat Security, by Long Jim

I recently stopped by our local farmers market, and while ambling along with a fresh home-made fig newton, I stopped dead in my tracks when I saw what one vendor offered.

There amongst the crafts, and farm produce, was an enterprising fellow standing behind a table with a large three rotor drone helicopter. Marketed as the “Draganflyer” it has 3 dual sets of rotors stacked in pairs atop each other.

It was equipped with a gyroscope-stabilized digital video, and still camera, set-up. He was contracting with folks to fly his drone over their property and take very detailed pictures of their homes. He then sold them DVDs, or large crisp pictures suitable for framing. Which, by the way, he also offered to provide, so one could proudly display the photographs in the parlor to ones guests.

This drone was surely on par with those that the film industry uses for fly-over views in production. It was the largest one I’ve seen. The fellow was charging up to seventy-five dollars for the service, plus twenty dollars and up for big 24”x 24” or so color prints. He was so busy answering questions, and signing people up that I didn’t get a chance to ask him any technical questions, or get additional info on his setup.

The development of small drones, both fixed wing, and  rotor-craft has virtually exploded in the past few years. Companies are springing up all over offering these easy to fly platforms for film,  and surveillance, some designed for covert, as well as conventional operations. Like the many newer small arms manufacturers who, with their own input from their combat experiences, flooded the battle-rifle market niche’ with variations of M4s, and calibers such as 6.8, and  .50 caliber Beowulf, one looking for a drone to supplement their LP/OP has a lot of choices. The range of choices, thankfully, include so many options, that one on a limited budget, all the way up to a prepper who isn’t constrained by price can pick the drone that will be of best use in his particular area of operation (AO) when TSHTF.

 The U.S. military has clearly been pushing the limits, and using every new state-of-the-art technological breakthrough available in surveillance devices since we began the war on terror. Their un-manned drones have steadily gotten larger and larger, and went from being eyes-only camera platforms, to now being armed-to-the-teeth with virtually every missile that can be fixed to an aircrafts under-carriages.

Going in the opposite direction, the military now supplies ground units a variety of  hand-launched fixed wing RC aircraft on the squad level for special operators to use as they gather recon on the battlefield. Like the “Falcon UAV”. which I saw being demonstrated on a recent episode on the Military Channel. These are small, virtually indestructible, carbon composite aircraft that are easily deployed out of a pack by one or two soldiers.

Coupled with hardened military field lap-tops and satellite links, forward recon teams can collect, and pass on, an amazing amount of real-time information, inconceivable to reconnaissance units of even a few years ago.

A quick Google research trip came up with an unbelievable number of companies offering three, four, six, and even EIGHT engined rotor craft, like the  “Hexacopter”  and the “Octocopter” .

I couldn’t guess how much money and man-hours these guys used up, in trying to outdo each other by adding on engines, and other upgrades.

These companies clearly have some tech-savvy R&D guys, who have incorporated not only the gyro-stabilized mounting systems for cameras, but have utilized software that has taken the actual flight controls to another level. The copters in even the moderately priced end of the cost spectrum have auto-pilot, built-in GPS systems, and ground sensing features. The auto-pilot and ground-sensing features allow an operator to hover the craft for many minutes, with almost no effort. Some have thermal, and/or I.R. imaging systems, and even F.L.I.R. capabilities.  Most of the drones use a LiPo battery pack, and flight times, usually depend on how much extra software and systems are drawing power aside from the motors, varies, but is usually around fifteen to twenty minutes per full charge.

Some, like the Parrot Quadracopter 4 rotor RC offering, are controlled by WiFi, and a free downloadable APP allows one to use an I-pod, I-phone or other smart device to fly the copter. This device sells on the lower end of the cost spectrum, approximately $300 USD. The others mentioned in this article are upwards of $1000 USD, and more depending on features. These machines, for the most part, are way easier to control and fly than most of the run-of-the-mill hobby/toy RC mini-helicopters one sees in Wally World-type stores.

Now I know that laying out, or budgeting, an extra five hundred to a thousand dollars might be pushing it for some of us, but I firmly believe that these RC helicopters equipped with camera capabilities are well worth the investment. Imagine a scenario where you and others in your neighborhood “bug in”, and you are faced with multiple points of entry into your subdivision via roads. You’d have to have several OP/LP’s, manned by 2-3 persons, rotating on three eight hour shifts to cover each 24 hour period. Unless you had blocked off, or made impassable, most of those ingress/egress points, that’s a lot of manpower dedicated to advance warning and perimeter protection. With a single drone, or even two or more in rotation, one person could have the helicopter or fixed wing drone hover, or circle, virtually undetected, giving a 360 degree view of the entire neighborhood. That’s a big savings, in terms of manpower hours, and supplies in not having to keep the checkpoints and OP/LP’s manned every moment of every day.

For those who plan to bug out into the wilderness, or to a primary or secondary location, especially in a heavily timbered or forested area, a high-flying set of eyes seems ideal. Combined with the possibility that there is only you and your spouse and maybe children, or just another   few couples for security, I would think that the drones would be a God-send.

If you take the time to watch the flight videos, or have had the opportunity to see close-up just how quiet these things are, you will surely appreciate their quiet-running capabilities. I have seen these being operated from the distance of half a football field away, and wouldn’t have given it a minutes notice. In an “hunker-down” situation, if there’s roving bands of bad-guys, they most certainly will approach in vehicles, and then these drones are virtually silent.

The other clear benefit to employing drones to keep watch, is that even if the device is
spotted, and even engaged and disabled, it’s much better than risking losing a member of your team, or family. Machines are expendable, and replaceable, while people clearly are not.

A much better scenario would be to be sitting snuggly in a central command area equipped with CCTV monitors, powered perhaps by a genset, or re-chargeable solar/battery banks. Or even streaming into your laptop, I-phone or I-pad, regardless of your location relevant to the drones area of observation. As to the possibility of someone actually firing on, and taking out one of these drones, I would say that an adversary would have to be a pretty good shot, if not a military-grade marksman in order to hit and disable the craft. I’d also think, that with the ability to see the bad-guys from a long way off, or at least a distance, you’d have sufficient time to exfiltrate the drone if it came to maintaining OPSEC or remaining undetected. If you took the additional measure of deploying an LP/OP a distance from your main AO, then that would give those in the primary camp a good amount of fore-warning to prevent being located and overrun. 

 This brings up another point. That being  that the drones are only as good, as the users ability to keep them powered up. There are many options available to pair the drones with solar or conventional on-grid, or off-grid recharging set-ups. One can purchase extra battery packs, and along with that, extra spare replacement parts in kit form, in case of damage to the wings, rotors, frame or other hardware or software on the units.

If you follow this link from RC Helicopter Fun, the author, using a Parrot, proceeds to give a thorough tutorial for employing that specific device, while the site also answers many of the questions a beginner may have.

My plan is to pick up a couple of the less expensive multi-rotor helicopter units, along with spare batteries, and a solar charging array. I don’t know if our plan to “bug-in” in our neighborhood will suffice when TEOTWAWKI happens, or if we’ll have to go to “Plan B” and bug out in our mobile configuration, either way, having an “eye in the sky” looking out for our security regardless of the situation, is safer, easier solution for us.



Letter Re: Advice on Dakota Alerts

Hi Jim and Readers,
My Dakota Alert works great, as long as I can keep the batteries fresh, I find that they really use the current up fast.
I did paint the outside of my "bird nest" box with paint that looks like bark and green leaf color that I purchased in the paint department at Wal-Mart. It really helps camouflage the box, and when hanging it on a tree, most people never notice it.
As for protecting the antenna, I covered it with 1/2 inch black adhesive-lined shrink tubing available from Mouser Electronics. By shrinking it on the antenna is more resistant to  moisture, and it covers the shiny antenna and gives it better concealment.

I have also adapted and camouflaged another 2 meter band yagi antenna so that when the SHTF I can place the unit much further down the road and yet still hear the signal in my receiver. – Dave in Oregon



Economics and Investing:

Just as I anticipated: Platinum Climbs to a 16-Month High, Extending Premium Over Gold. (I hope that some of you took my advice last October and bought platinum when it dipped below the price of gold.)

Bob Bauman of The Sovereign Investor recently reported some “voting with their feet” news: “In 2009, when the Labor Party in the U.K. raised the top income tax rate to 50%, two-thirds of the country’s 16,000 £1 million earners disappeared from British tax rolls. In 2010, HM Revenue and Customs reported only 6,000 remained. Rather than increasing revenue, the tax actually cost the U.K. £7 billion ($11 billion) in lost tax revenue.”

Chris Martenson: QE for Dummies

Items from The Economatrix:

Global Economy Living Off Fed’s Gravy Train

Peter Schiff:  Economy “Stuck In Serious Recession”

CIA Advisor Warns of “Financial Weapons of Mass Destruction”



Odds ‘n Sods:

I recently reviewed a consulting client’s draft “Get out of Dodge” plan for getting to his retreat in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, which only showed one evacuation route from a major midwestern city. I told him bluntly: If you don’t have a Plan B, then you don’t have a plan. His revised plan, he promises, will show four routes, two of which go through Canada.

   o o o

New York’s ‘SAFE’ Act: The ‘Rape’ of the Second Amendment. JWR’s Comment: I’m now thoroughly convinced that New York is irretrievably in the hands of the Statists via multigenerational constituencies, and beyond repair. Vote with your feet, folks.

   o o o

For those who may have missed the news: February 8th 2013: Peaceful demonstration at every state capital for our 2nd amendment rights.

   o o o

Anyone in or near New Jersey who would like to own a “Tiny House” on wheels: A 160 square foot cabin on wheels with bamboo floors, cedar siding, collapsible deck, complete rain gutter, and 40-year rated roof is available. It has AC wiring but has no plumbing. (The current owner cooked in makeshift all-electric kitchen, hauled water, and used an outhouse.) It is a really nice little house and needs to be sold ASAP. Contact Lisa at: ( 831) 227-5976 or e-mail: equityedu@aol.com for photos. This house on wheels can be towed anywhere in the U.S. but it is now located in New Jersey. The asking price is $12,000.

   o o o

Mini Drones: Army Deploys Tiny Helicopters

   o o o

More nonsensical statist meddling: Gun control: Officials set sights on ammunition background checks. (Thanks to James C. for the link.) And Jon C. sent a link to news of some newly-introduced extreme bills in Minnesota. Oh, but here is some good news, from Vermont: Green Mountain Democrats Reject Gun Ban.





Notes from JWR:

A special note to Wyoming Citizens: Three pending pro-gun bills are in peril: HB103, HB104, and HB105. I heard from a reader: “They have cleared the [Wyoming] house but have  been assigned to two committees on the senate side: Education and Judiciary. These are committees that are have majority members leaning to the left on this issue. We need them to hear loud and clear that these are great landmark bills for the state of Wyoming and this nation.” Please contact your Wyoming House representatives! (This web page provides a way to do so.)

Today we present another entry for Round 45 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, and C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 45 ends on March 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Lessons Learned on My Prepping Journey, by Tim K.

As Seen on TV – My Humble Beginnings
I admit I’ve watched just about every episode out there from all of the popular survival shows – Survivorman, Beyond Survival, Man vs. Wild, Dual Survival, Man Woman Wild, and yes, even Worst Case Scenario with Bear Gryllis . I ate it all up. Those shows got me hooked on wilderness survival. My Christmas and birthday lists went from a focus on video games and computer upgrades to things like paracord, solar blankets, magnesium fire starters, etc. I also got a few great books that gave me vast amounts of knowledge. Everything I stocked up on I saw as something to use should the power go out, the car break down, etc. This is all before the term prepper went mainstream. I didn’t consider myself a ‘prepper’ at this point – just someone who prepared for a few emergency scenarios. Then I saw the first season of The Colony. That got me thinking about home security and stocking food. There was nothing romantic about The Colony like there was with the other shows. I quickly realized my problem – I didn’t live in or near the wilderness. I have always been, and will most likely always be, a suburbanite. I had my wife watch the episodes with me so we could talk about what we would do. How would we fare in that situation? Unfortunately, that’s all it was at that point – just talk, no action.

My Reality Check – Survival School

For my birthday, my wife registered me and my brother for a wilderness survival school in Florida (http://www.byronkernssurvival.com). I had an absolute blast there and realized something very important. Seeing how to do things on television is no comparison to doing it in real life! I know – common sense right? Before the class, I was completely confident that I could make a friction fire or snare some dinner if I had to. Not only did I learn many important basics in the school, but I also got a lot of hands-on experience on making a knee-high fire in no time, building a proper debris shelter, as well as a plethora of other life-saving skills. I would highly suggest all of you out there to get registered for a course. Get your hands dirty. Better yet, bring your spouse or your friends along. You don’t want to be in a life-or-death situation to try something for the first time, especially something as important as making shelter or fire. Practice, practice, practice! If you look at some survival school schedules, you’ll see that there are discounts many times or even free classes posted (http://www.survivalogic.com/2013/01/esee-offering-free-training-courses.html)!

Podcasts – Free Information on Just About Anything

Next to YouTube, you can find a podcast for just about anything – from investing, to gaming, to travel – even Prepping. If there was any podcast that got me into the whole ‘prepper’ movement, it was In The Rabbit Hole (http://www.intherabbithole.com/). I did try out some others, but for the most part, the hosts always seemed a little odd or too political for my tastes. These guys (Aaron and Jonathan) were my gateway to prepping – I quickly found many other sites (http://www.emsnewbie.com, http://americanpreppersnetwork.com/, etc) and people to follow, like Lisa Bedford (http://thesurvivalmom.com/), who often has free webinars. I give a lot of credit to these guys in getting me up to speed. This is about the time I started considering myself a ‘prepper’. Some of their episodes that were eye-opening to me included being ‘gray’, home schooling, survival skills vs survival gear, situational awareness, bug out bags and every day carries…I could keep listing more and more. Every episode was filled with so much useful knowledge. They also have a great forum and unbiased gear reviews. If you’re new to, or just plain interested in, prepping, I would start with these guys. You can download their episodes and listen to them whenever you like.

Don’t let your quest for knowledge stop there. The Internet is full of free resources and advice. Get out there and search for other forums. Get involved. Ask questions. Find a group of preppers with the similar mindset you can share ideas with.

Food Storage & Gadgets on the Cheap

There’s a very simple method called “copy canning” (http://www.survival.com/y2kpreparations.htm) for food storage that anyone can put in the practice right away. I believe I first heard about this on In The Rabbit Hole.It doesn’t involve going overboard buying $5,000 worth of freeze dried food. Well, if you can afford to do that, more power to you! For the rest of us, this is a great, affordable method. The article has a lot of information, but here’s the most simplistic way to look at it: Every time you go to the store and buy a can or box of food, buy an extra one (or more if you can afford it). That way you know you’re buying what you already eat. When you get home, always put the newer items in the back. Then, eat the older stuff. A lot of people who stock up on food mistakenly stock up on foods they have never tried before. There’s no point in buying 3-months of food that no one in the family will go near. With copy canning and the information in the article above, you can stock up on plenty of the things you already use. Even if you’re not ‘prepping’ per-say, think of it as a hedge on inflation (as Aaron and Jonathan say). This method can be used for all of your consumables (toothpaste, feminine napkins, toilet paper, soap, etc).

Canned food? Check. I also knew I wanted to get a dehydrator so I could preserve foods and make things like jerky and fruit leathers. Just like anything, you’ll always find the best deals online. I watched craigslist for a food dehydrator a month before I spotted a great deal. I paid $80 for an Excalibur 2900. It has 9 trays and comes with waxy paper for making things that would otherwise spill through (like fruit leathers, chilli, etc). It helped that I watched many, many videos from Dehydrate 2 Store (http://www.dehydrate2store.com/). She has the most helpful and comprehensive videos out there when it comes to dehydrating food. Quick Tip: You don’t need to buy more wax paper inserts – I bought a pack of five silicone cutting board sheets and cut them to fit on the dehydration trays. They work like a charm and only cost about $6. So you don’t have to pay full price – just be patient and watch the classifieds or Craigslist or eBay. That reminds me, I also found a guy on Craigslist that sells food-grade 55-gallon barrels for $10 each! I now have water storage taken care of as a result. It’s all out there, you just have to look!

I recently bought a Foodsaver 3880 kit using a coupon and saved a ton of money on that as well. That in conjunction with my Excalibur makes an unstoppable food storage combination. Did you know the Foodsaver is also good for keeping important documents and electronics protected as well?

It was the food dehydrator that got my wife excited about storing food. It was such an awesome feeling when she came home from shopping and said she bought an extra crate of fruit for us to dehydrate for later. I never thought I would’ve seen the day. This came from someone who would roll her eyes when I talked about anything prepper-related. Now she regularly buys extra food and consumables from the store to stock up.

Keep in mind this is over a period of about a year and a half. I didn’t just go out there and start buying things up right away. Don’t prep yourself into debt!

Another quick tip – I have five 1-gallon and ten 5-gallon food grade storage buckets, all of which I got for free. All I do is call my local Wal-Mart and ask to be transferred to the bakery department. I ask if they have any buckets they’d like to get rid of. These usually had icing in them for all the cakes. They cleaned them up and gave them to me for free. Your results may vary, but I’ve heard this working just about everywhere.

When It’s Time to Have The Talk

No, we’re not talking about the birds and the bees. We’re talking about firearms. Some people are from families that are very open to guns, and some people aren’t. Growing up, my family never had a gun in the house. My wife’s parents absolutely object to the very thought of guns (thank you media). I always knew I wanted my own firearms. If you don’t want anything to do with firearms, I respect your decision as well. You can skip this section.
I turned to people for advice asking how to convince the wife to let me buy some guns. Unfortunately, the most common response was “Just buy them, and she’ll learn to live with it. Then you can just keep buying them.” Yes, that does work surprisingly well for many people. That’s not how I wanted to approach it.

My wife and I are members of a couple different ranges here and have been for a few years now. We’d rent the guns and just shoot for an hour or two. That’s about it. Over a period of about three months or so, I would pick times to talk to my wife about the possibility of gun ownership, what it meant to us, and what the pros and cons were. She talked about what scared her most and I would tell her my thoughts. If I didn’t have an answer to any of her questions, I would do some research and then tell her what I thought. It was quite a process, but I gained a lot of knowledge (and mutual respect) as a result.
It just so happens I got a gift card to Bass Pro Shop from the survival school I attended. When I asked her if I could use it to buy a Ruger 10/22, she simply said “yes.” Had I asked the same question three months prior, I already know what the answer would’ve been. It would’ve been a flat out “No Way! No guns in the house!”

I’ve since gotten my concealed carry permit (again, a gift from my wife) as well as a concealed carry pistol. We still aren’t exactly where I want to be yet, but we’ve taken great leaps forward. I know in the future, if I’m thinking about anything, firearm or anything else, I can talk to her about it. If we decide to purchase something or not, it’ll be a mutual decision.
Note: By all means, if you have kids in the house, be sure to take them to an Eddie Eagle class if possible. Our gun range offers them free of charge every few weeks or so. If those aren’t offered in your area, teach your kids the proper actions to take should they find a gun.

If any of you are in a situation where your spouse is unwilling to let you purchase a firearm, I urge you to talk things out. Don’t Argue. Talk. Respect your spouse. Don’t go behind his or her back – while it may be easier, it’s not right.
A quick few tips:

  • If you purchase a firearm for defense, get one that you can hit the target with. You don’t need the highest caliber known to man. You’re no good to yourself or your family if you can’t hit someone trying to do you harm.
  • Practice, practice, practice! Again, if you decide to have a firearm, you have a responsibility to know how to use it properly.
  • Get a gun safe (or two) and keep it locked. Too many people are too lazy to lock their safes. Robbers count on this. Especially if you have kids, be sure to lock things up.

The Journey Continues
I’ve only been actually ‘prepping’ for about a year and a half now. I think I have food storage down for the most part. I have a way to hunt for food and protect my family. I even have some wilderness survival gear and training. My journey is far from complete, however. I still have things I want to work on, and ideas to talk through with the wife.



Letter Re: Advice on Dakota Alerts

Dear Mr. Rawles, 

Greetings! I have enjoyed your blog site.  I noticed you have mentioned several times your use of Dakota Alert systems for your ranch.
 
This is why I am writing. I would like you input and thoughts.
 
I was viewing some customer comments on Amazon from those who had purchased the units.  Some complained about rust-out due to moisture (rain) after a few months. 
 
I then followed this up with an e-mail to Dakota Alert manufacturer. 
 
Bryon Pedersen of Dakota Alert responded by stating that most of the moisture issues have been resolved-except for moisture seepage into the antenna of the MURS system If the antenna is not attached properly.  Bryon stated that they cannot correct the flaw completely, but are happy to replace any item under warrantee.
 
I am in New England and face downpours and freezing winters.  I really could use this early warning technology-but do not wish to buy stuff that will fail within 12 months.
 
Also, heck, I can also make the “bird house” used to hide the detector unit-seems simple enough of a design.
 
I am asking you and other preppers their options as I want to keep my family safe in the face of SHTF or other intrusions.
 
Can you provide any updates on the use of this system?
 
Have you had similar problems?
 
Have you been able to overcome some of these problems?
 
Have you found alternative systems such as the Chamberlain CWA2000 Wireless Motion Alert a good substitute?
 
I would appreciate any or all thoughts.
 
Best wishes, – L.F.R.

JWR Replies: We have used a Dakota Alert for several years here at the Rawles Ranch. We live in a wet climate where we have snow for two to four months each winter and rain can be expected in any other month of the year. We have had not moisture problems with our Dakota Alert, which is mounted in one of their wooden “bird house” discreet hide/shelters. I think that the bird house keeps most of the moisture away from the black plastic case. This can be improved if you used a coat of RTV silicone around the antenna, to form a gasket for the portion of the antenna that passes through the hole in the top of the bird house. That will greatly reduce or eliminate having water drip down the antenna and get to the antenna base.

The only problem that we’ve had with our Dakota Alert is false alarms. In one instance this was caused by a spider that was repeatedly trying to spin a web directly in front of the IR sensor. If you find false alarms annoying, you can always always substitute an inductive loop to bury in your driveway. That way, not even deer will set off the alarm–only vehicles.

One last bit of advice: DO NOT but the junky Dakota Alert clones that are made in Mainland China, such as the Chamberlain. I’ve had numerous bad reports about their reliability and longevity.



Three Letters Re: Dealing With Biting and Stinging Insects

Jim:
I’d like to recommend the best chigger bite treatment:
Put some rubbing alcohol on tissue paper and lightly rub this on the chigger bite as soon as possible. Hold in place for at least half a minute to kill germs. Then immediately rub a piece of ice on the bite for a few minutes to reduce swelling. This will eliminate pain and swelling by 99%.  After getting hundreds of chigger bites over the years, this is the best method I’ve found. – Paul O.

James,
One thing to add about chiggers, or red bugs. I got these on my legs when I worked outside in Louisiana back in the early 1980s. I was told to sit for a half-hour in a hot bath, to which was added 1 cup of Pine-Sol. It did the trick, but I smelled like a pine tree for about three weeks. – Jim A.
 

Hi,
In reference to the recent bugs article, I wanted to share another defense against chiggers. We live in Texas and frequent areas that seem to be loved by chiggers. We’ve found that sulfur dust is a great chigger deterrent.

We put the sulfur dust in a sock and the tie a loose overhand knot in the sock. Before we go into a chigger infested area, like a dewberry patch or tall grass near a body of water, we’ll take the sock and pat it on our shoes, socks and pants (or legs if wearing shorts) up to the knee.

It’s not a foolproof method as we’ll get an occasion chigger bite, but I’ve gone into the previously mentioned areas in shorts and yellow tinged legs without being bothered by chiggers. We also try to stay out of these areas during the morning, or at least until the heat has burned the moisture off of the plants. It seems that there are fewer chiggers on the dried vegetation.

Best Regards, – Jeff B.



Economics and Investing:

A penniless Canada: Mint begins years-long process of collecting and melting down 82-million kg in coins

Gasoline costs take biggest share of household income in three decades. (Thanks to G.G. for the link.)

Is a global LIBOR settlement coming?

Central Bank Snuffs Out Vietnam’s Thriving Gold Market

Items from The Economatrix:

January Auto Sales Indicate Strong Start to 2013.

Own Physical Gold & Silver As Currency Wars Will Destroy Our Money

Housing Packs Punch For US Growth In 2013 And Beyond



Odds ‘n Sods:

Peter S. recommended this: Tiny Off-Grid Cabin in Maine is Completely Self-Sustaining

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I had a shock when I recently bought a replacement set of studded snow tires for our full-size SUV. Complete with studding, mounting and balancing, four identical tires from the same maker and installed by the same Les Schwab tire store cost $753 in January 2011 and $952 in January, 2013. And they tell us that “consumer price inflation is low.” Yeah, right. The effects of the BHO Administrations’s massive Quantitative Easing are now starting to pervade the economy. Get out of U.S. Dollar-denominated assets and into tangibles quickly, folks!

   o o o

Mike R. mentioned a source for a more recent (2011) frequency allocation chart.

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Here comes that “compromise” that I warned you about: Obama Smacks Down the NRA on Background Checks and High Capacity Magazines. Please contact your elected representatives and remind then that A.) Private party sales are outside of Federal jurisdiction (since they are intrastate sales and hence not under the Interstate Commerce clause), and that B.) Full capacity magazines deserve the same Constitutional protection as the guns that they fit. In related news: Ann Coulter Issues a Warning: Universal Background Checks Lead to Confiscation and Extermination. (A hat tip to B.B. for the latter link.)

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Don G. sent this Makezine link: DIY Single-Use Antibiotic Ointment Packets



Jim’s Quote of the Day:

“…every act of a delegated authority, contrary to the tenor of the commission under which it is exercised, is void. No legislative act, therefore, contrary to the Constitution, can be valid. To deny this, would be to affirm, that the deputy is greater than his principal; that the servant is above his master; that the representatives of the people are superior to the people themselves; that men acting by virtue of powers, may do not only what their powers do not authorize, but what they forbid.” – Alexander Hamilton, Federalist Paper No. 78 (Paragraph 10)



Notes from JWR:

My Rawles Gets You Ready Preparedness Course was out of print for nearly three years, but I’m pleased to report that it is available again, via digital download. Because of the efficiency of digital delivery, it now available at just a fraction of the price that had been charged for the original hard copy binder edition. The course was designed for beginning and intermediate preppers, with this premise: Could you prepare your family for a major disaster, with just one or two trips to your local COSTCO or Sam’s Club store? In the course I describe exactly how to do that. One of the most useful course appendices is a lengthy table of shelf lives for various foods that was assembled from various sources and my own research.. That table has not been published anywhere else.

Today we present another entry for Round 45 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The prizes for this round include:

First Prize: A.) Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course. (A $1,195 value.) B.) A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795, C.) Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources. (A $350 value.) D.) a $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear, E.) A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value), and F.) A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo. and G.) A $200 gift certificate, donated by Shelf Reliance.

Second Prize: A.) A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand, B.) A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589. C.) A FloJak FP-50 stainless steel hand well pump (a $600 value), courtesy of FloJak.com. D.) A “grab bag” of preparedness gear and books from Jim’s Amazing Secret Bunker of Redundant Redundancy (JASBORR) with a retail value of at least $300, E.) A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials and F.) Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value).

Third Prize: A.) A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21. (This filter system is a $275 value.), B.) A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206, C.) Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy. This is a $185 retail value, D.) A Commence Fire! emergency stove with three tinder refill kits. (A $160 value. E.) A Tactical Trauma Bag #3 from JRH Enterprises (a $200 value), and F.) Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security.

Round 45 ends on March 31st, 2013, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Dealing With Biting and Stinging Insects by K.F.

Being “bugged” by insects is a problem we will likely face in TEOTWAWKI. Americans will spend more time outdoors in an effort to gather food and fuel as well as hunt and guard their retreat and resources. Exposure to insects will increase exponentially. Our defenses against pests will diminish significantly as our homes and retreats have their windows and doors left open more often. Also, the commonly available pesticides will probably not be available as supplies (of all kinds) decrease when TSHTF. We all know that insects have the potential to spread disease as well as lower our quality of life.  
While some insects have many beneficial roles in nature, this article will focus on those that are considered biting or stinging pests, e.g., ants, mosquitoes, flies, chiggers, fleas, ticks, lice, bees, wasps, and bedbugs.  Certainly, there are many more insects that can be considered pests. The brief descriptions here are intended to familiarize the preparing reader with insects that may be a nuisance when TEOTWAWKI comes and give some information on the dangers they pose and some suggestions for their control when supplies may be limited. Each of the listed insects below has a brief description, their likely locations, the effect and treatment of their bite or sting, as well as suggestions for their control when supplies may be limited.
ANTS
Ants are found on nearly every inhabited land mass of the planet. Most ants serve beneficial roles in our ecosystem, but occasionally conflict with humans. Examples of such conflict include, invading retreat larders and foodstuffs, damage done to equipment by ant hills, and of course, ant bites. There are many species of ants: the Black Ant is the most common while the Fire Ant is the most feared. Ants may be nomadic but most build nests that are made up of chewed vegetation and soil. Their nests may be located on or underground, under stones or logs, inside logs, hollow stems, or even acorns, in and on buildings in walls, windows, and even electric appliances. Ants enter a home to forage or seek shelter or both. Most ant bites cause brief pain, but scratching at them can lead to skin infections. Fire Ants are the only ant species that both bite and sting. The sting can be painful for several hours. Multiple stings can cause anaphylaxis and death to individuals that are highly allergic to insect stings.  Treatment for ant bite/sting consist of topical cortisone cream and oral antihistamines such as Benadryl. Control of ants is difficult. For ants found in the home, a bait that the ants carry back to their nest is the most effective. Many commercial products are on the market and a supply should be included in your preparations. Other control methods are to be sure your home and retreat are tightly sealed with caulking, screens, etc before TSHTF. There are many folk remedies for repelling ants, many more than can be discussed here, but I’ll include citrus oil.  Save any citrus peels, boil them gently in a small amount of water for 10 minutes, strain, and spray areas that need ant control. Boric Acid powder placed where ants will walk through it clings to their exoskeleton and dehydrates them or is ingested when they groom and kills them. Boric acid can be effective for up to a year if kept dry.  Please investigate other remedies to determine what will store well, be affordable, and perform to your satisfaction.
MOSQUITOES
Mosquitoes have been called by some “the most dangerous animal on Earth”.  Mosquitoes are found everywhere, except Antarctica. Stagnant pools of water are required for most mosquitoes to lay their eggs. The water can be fresh or salty depending on the species of mosquito. Both male and female mosquitoes feed on nectar and other plant juices, however, only the female of some mosquito species requires blood protein for egg production. Besides the irritation of their bite and possible allergic reactions, mosquitoes are known to transmit West Nile virus, St. Louis Encephalitis and Eastern Equine Encephalitis to humans. Use insect repellent containing DEET, citrus oils, or diluted Skin So Soft (Avon) on exposed skin and/or clothing. Products containing 100% DEET have been shown to provide up to 12 hours of protection while those with concentrations of 20% – 30% DEET offer 3 – 6 hours of defense. DEET is very stable and is effective indefinitely as a mosquito repellent.  The repellent/insecticide permethrin can be used on clothing to protect through several washes. Always follow the directions on the package. Avon Skin-So-Soft (diluted 1:1 with water) sprayed on skin and clothing is an excellent, economical repellent. Wear long sleeves and pants when weather permits. Have secure screens on windows and doors to keep mosquitoes out. Limit outdoor activity during peak mosquito feeding times such as early morning and evening hours. Get rid of mosquito breeding sites by emptying standing water from flower pots, buckets, open barrels and other containers. Make small holes in tire swings so water will drain out. Children’s wading pools should be kept empty and on their sides when they aren’t being used, as should similar containers.  

FLIES
The Housefly comprises about 90% of the common flies. Not only is the Housefly a nuisance, it spreads diseases as well. Houseflies lay their eggs in decaying, organic material from which larvae (maggots) emerge and develop into the adult. Houseflies serve as vectors of diseases such as Amebiasis (amoebic dysentery), Giardiasis, Typhoid, Cholera, bacterial dysentery, and intestinal viruses to name only a few. Flyswatters may keep kids busy and provide temporary relief from these pests, but other control measures are needed. Several commercial fly sprays are available, use the one you are familiar with which provides the control, price and availability you desire. In a TEOTWAWKI situation, a DIY fly trap may be useful. Re-purposing a 2 Liter (or similar) bottle with a funnel taped to the mouth (small opening in the bottle). Use a little waste organic material or waste sweet substance as bait. When full, remove the funnel, place the cap on the bottle and pour on the compost pile. Start over again.. Remove organic trash daily (or more frequently) to the compost pile, which should be located well away from the residence and water source.  If Houseflies (or other flies) are a problem, look for the source of decaying organic material and remove it. Wipe out waste receptacles, rinse, and bleach weekly or as needed. Sanitation is the key to Housefly control. Horsefly females inflict a painful bite. They are present in nearly all of the United States. Control is difficult relying on long sleeves and pants with DEET  insect repellent. Horseflies are known to transmit many blood borne pathogens between humans and Tularemia from rabbits to humans in the western US. They also transmit Equine Encephalomyelitis to horses. 

CHIGGERS

Chiggers (aka Red Bugs) are found worldwide and are present in the United States. They are common in the Southeast and Midwest but rare in the northern areas, deserts, and mountain terrain. A Chigger is a mite that lives in forests, grasslands, low, damp, marshy areas and appears to be more active in early summer. They seem to thrive in hot humid climes. Chigger larvae attach to human (and several other animal) skin. These larvae form a hole in the skin (not a bite) and inject digestive enzymes through this hole. The Chigger larvae then ingest the cellular contents and after 3-5 days on its host they drop off. The redness, itching, and irritation of a Chigger “bite” are not usually noticed until more than 24 hours after their digestive juices are injected.  Chiggers are not known for transmitting serious disease in the U.S., however serious cellulitis and secondary bacterial infections are common. Over the counter topical corticosteroids and/or topical/oral antihistamines are often used to treat Chigger “bites”. Cool or warm baths have both been described as bringing relief for Trombiculiasis (Chigger “bite”s). Fingernail polish applied to the “bite” does not suffocate the Chigger as is commonly believed. Control methods include wearing long pants/long sleeved shirts when possibly entering an area Chiggers are known to infest. Use a DEET or permethrin  pesticide before engaging in activity near Chigger infested areas. Wash clothes in hot water or leave them out in the hot sun for an extended period will clear the Chigger larvae from the clothes. Widespread or spot/area pesticide treatment of areas known to have chigger infestations is probably not practical in a TEOTWAWKI scenario.

LICE

Lice (singular is Louse) are small insects that are very species specific. Human lice affect only humans, while different animal lice affect only their host specie, i.e. cattle louse for cattle, dog louse for dog, etc. Lice are spread by direct contact and there are three types of human lice. These are head lice, body lice and pubic lice. Head lice are spread by direct head to head contact, sharing combs and hair adornments (hats, caps, etc.). They are very common among children, but also spread by child-parent contact. Body lice are also spread by direct contact as well as by sharing clothing and like articles from an infested person. Pubic lice are spread by direct contact, sexual contact, and/or shared towels, bedding, and clothes. All three types of human lice feed on blood, but do not burrow under the skin. The body louse has been known to spread diseases such as typhus.  All lice cause itching, redness and the possibility of secondary bacterial skin infections due to the intense itching. Head lice are treated most effectively with  a combination of lice combs to remove the nits (louse eggs attached to hairs) and wet combing every 3-7 days until the infestation is cleared. Hot air blow drying until the nits are dehydrated is effective, but not against newly hatched larvae.  Several other treatments are described, but may not be available when TSHTF.  Prevention is directed at preventing contact with affected persons and scrupulous hygiene when an infestation of head lice is occurring. Body lice are more easily treated by improving personal hygiene and washing clothing, towels, and bedding in hot water greater than 130 degrees F. Leaving clothes unwashed, but unworn for greater than a week will also kill the lice and prevent lice eggs from hatching.  Pubic Lice (aka Crabs) require clothing and bedding to be laundered and topical treatment by a physician using a permethrin or lindane product. Sexual or other direct (or indirect) contact should be avoided until the infestation is cleared. The take home message about lice is not to let an infestation get started in a TEOTWAWKI situation. There’s enough to worry about. Be careful of sexual, direct, or indirect contact (by group or family members) with new additions to your group until sure they are healthy to prevent pediculosis (louse infestation) as well as other health problems.

BED BUGS

Bed bugs are parasitic insects that feed exclusively on blood. The name “bed bug” comes from its preferred habitat: inside of or near beds or bedding in warm houses. Bed bugs are mainly active at night. They usually feed on their hosts without being noticed.  Many adverse health effects may result from bed bug bites, including skin rashes, psychological effects, and allergic symptoms. Diagnosis involves both finding bed bugs and the occurrence of compatible symptoms. Bed bugs are bloodsucking insects. They are attracted to humans mainly by carbon dioxide and body heat. Their bites are not usually noticed at the time. Itchy welts develop slowly and may take weeks to go away. Bed bugs prefer to bite exposed skin, especially the face, neck and arms of a sleeping individual. It takes between five to ten minutes for a bed bug to become completely engorged with blood and then it returns to its hiding place. Bed bugs can live for a year without feeding; they normally try to feed every five to ten days. When it’s cold, bed bugs live for about a year while at warmer temperatures they survive about five months. Bedbugs are carried to new locations on clothing, luggage, visiting pets, and transfer of furniture and/or on the human body. They may also travel between connected dwellings through duct work or false ceilings. Elimination of bed bugs is difficult. They are beginning to enjoy resistance to many pesticides. The active ingredient Lambda-Cyhalothrin found in Hot Shot Spider Killer has been found to be effective, but not appealing to use around human sleeping areas. Vacuuming, heat treating mattresses and bedding as well as wrapping mattresses must be included in any attempt to exterminate bed bugs, here again, be careful what you bring into your home or retreat. Bed bugs are hard to find and usually move only at night. They usually stay unnoticed in dark crevices, and their eggs can be found in fabric seams. Aside from bite symptoms, signs include fecal spots, blood smears on sheets, and molts. Bed bugs can be seen alone, but often congregate once established. They usually remain close to hosts, commonly in or near beds or couches. Bed bugs can also be detected by a unique smell described as that of rotting raspberries.

FLEAS

Fleas are small pests that cause discomfort and disease. They are laterally compressed, wingless insects that are found worldwide. Both male and female fleas bite and feed on the skin cells and blood of their host which may be human or domestic animals such as dogs or cats and rabbits, squirrels, etc.  For every adult flea found on a host, there are many more in the environment. Fleas cause discomfort by biting and crawling on the hosts’ skin. Their bites cause itchiness and redness. Some people may be highly allergic to these bites. Fleas also spread diseases such as plague, flea-born typhus, and cat-scratch fever. Treat flea bites with topical steroid or antihistamine creams, and/or calamine preparations. Flea control is difficult, especially if you have canine security or feline rodent control as part of your preparations. Modern flea control for pets is very effective; however the best topical or oral flea control products may not be available long when the grid is down. There are many, many flea control suggestions. Some are effective and others are hopeful. The following suggestions are offered for use when better flea control products may not be available. Salt, boric acid (borate), or baking soda can be applied liberally to bed linens and laundry mixed well in a closed container and left for 24 hours, then washed thoroughly. This will dehydrate and kill the fleas. These same compounds can be liberally sprinkled on floors and other places fleas may hide. Luckily, these are non-toxic and have many other uses so they may be too precious to use for flea control. Stock up! On the pet, most shampoos and diluted dishwashing detergents will kill fleas if lathered well for 10-20 minutes and rinsed well, however, this offers no long lasting control. Another suggestion is to use as much discarded citrus peelings or rinds as you can, boil in a small amount of water for 10 minutes and allow to steep overnight. The resulting fluid may be used as a non-toxic flea spray on humans, pets, and the environment, if you are lucky enough to have citrus fruits available. Have a container to accumulate citrus rinds and peelings to make as much of this fluid as you need.

TICKS
Ticks are not insects, but are included in this discussion as they are biting pests that cause discomfort and transmit disease. Ticks are present worldwide and are known to transmit diseases such as Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Lyme Disease, Colorado Tick Fever, as well as several other blood borne disease like babesiosis. They can also cause tick paralysis in humans and animals. The treatment of these diseases is not in the scope of this discussion, but is important for any outdoors person to be familiar with. If a tick is discovered on a human or pet, it must be removed with care not to force more of the fluid in the tick into the bite wound. Tweezers are recommended to remove the tick by grasping the attached mouth parts and head and gently rocking them out of the skin, being sure to remove the mouthparts and head. If these parts remain attached to the victim, gently scrape to remove these parts much like a splinter. Of course, wash and treat the bite as a wound. Tick control can be accomplished with regular inspection of your body especially after walking through tick infested areas. Also, many of the commercial mosquito control products containing DEET work well for tick control. An interesting approach for tick control in the environment, especially in a survival situation, is the use of guinea fowl. An article in the New York Times reports that 2 guineas can clear 2 acres of ticks in a year. As a bonus, guineas and their eggs can be cooked and eaten, plus they may add to security by setting up a ruckus if a predator or stranger comes near.

BEES AND WASPS
Bees and Wasps are truly venomous insects that are common throughout the United States. There are several types including the Paper Wasp, Yellow Jacket, Hornet, Mud (or Dirt) Dauber, and Cicada Killer as well as Honey Bee, Bumble Bee and Carpenter Bee. The Honey Bee may be the most beneficial insect to humans. All these venomous insects contribute to agriculture by honey production, pollination, and pest control, but may pose a threat to humans when their nests are disturbed. These insects feed on nectar, sugary plant juices, ripe or rotting fruit, and attractive, sugary human foodstuffs. Many of them prey on spiders, caterpillars, and other insects to feed their developing larvae.  Wasps and bees make their nests in many different fashions. Honey bees build colonies of combs or cells made of beeswax in tiers or layers located in tree cavities, rocks, spaces in buildings and commercial hives. Honey bees swarm when a newly produced queen leaves the colony with workers looking for a new place to establish a colony. A swarm is typically not aggressive and will usually settle in 2 – 4 days.  Bumble bees are larger, more hairy relatives of the honey bee. They burrow in the ground and use old rodent dens. Carpenter bees have little hair and are very similar in appearance to the Bumble bee. Their abdomens are typically slick. The female deposits its larvae in a tunnel with ½ inch diameter holes that extend several inches into wood. Male Carpenter bees cannot sting but will “bluff” when protecting the tunnel. Yellow Jackets make their nests in the ground, attics, crawl spaces and wall spaces. Hornets are bigger relatives of the wasps and make their paper, upside-down, pear shaped nests in trees, attics, and eaves of structures located in or near forests. Mud Daubers and Cicada Killers make their nests out of dirt on the sides of structures or burrow in the ground.  Only the female bees and wasps have stingers, which are adaptations of the ovipositor.  Honey, Bumble and female Carpenter bees typically are not aggressive unless provoked. Honey bees rarely sting when away from the colony however, but will actively defend the colony. Africanized Honey bees are more aggressive and attack in greater numbers when threatened. Paper Wasps build nests under eaves of buildings, trees, or other structures that they feel are out of the way and not likely to be disturbed. They will aggressively defend their nest if provoked. 

Yellow Jackets cause more stings than any other bee or wasp. They are notoriously belligerent. Yellow Jackets are attracted to sweets, and like the paper wasps, they feed on nectar and plant juices but prey on insects, spiders, and caterpillars to feed their larvae. Hornets behave like the wasps, but are slightly larger. Mud Daubers and Cicada Killers are wasps but are very passive and only sting when handled roughly. Their nests are the familiar dirt tubes found on walls or in the ground. Honey Bees stingers are strongly barbed compared to other bees or wasps. As such, when the Honey bee stings, the stinger is lodged in the skin and torn out of and along with other parts of its abdomen. Therefore, Honey Bees can only sting once and die shortly after stinging.  Honey Bee Queens stinger has no barb and can sting repeatedly, but rarely do. Other bees and wasps can sting repeatedly, and do not necessarily die from the act of stinging alone.  Bees, wasps, and hornets may release an aggression pheromone when killed, threatened, or stinging to identify a threat and raise an alarm to the rest of its colony. This pheromone goes away slowly and may stay on even after being rinsed with water. Therefore, these venomous insects may attack again after the perceived threat has gone under water and re-emerged.  

Bee, wasp, or hornet stings (venoms) vary in intensity by the type of insect. Usually they only cause brief pain, swelling, and redness which may last a few hours to a day or so. Some people are highly allergic to bee or wasp stings such that one sting can be fatal. Treatment for a bee or wasp sting is to rapidly remove the stinger, either by scraping the stinger out or removing it with fingers being careful not to stick yourself again. No difference has been proven between scraping or plucking the stinger from the skin, the more important factor seems to be removing the stinger quickly so that less venom is injected. Several home remedies such as applying tobacco, toothpaste, pennies, clay, urine, onion, baking soda and other similar applications circulate in folklore, but are not proven to be of benefit other than that from rubbing the area and the placebo effect. Ice applied to the area has the best result as for reducing the pain and swelling. People known to be highly allergic to bee and wasp stings should have an EpiPen or other source of epinephrine readily available. These people should be monitored closely and treated for anaphylactic shock if necessary. Destroying the nest of bees and wasps that are likely to conflict with humans is the most important part of bee and wasp control. Aerosol wasp and hornet sprays are available, and a significant supply should be available in your home or retreat. Sometimes destroying a nest becomes more of a threat than if the nest is simply left alone.

Honey Bees are the only one of the flying venomous insects that survive the winter. The others produce a queen to start over again and usually do not re-use a nest after freezing weather. Other control techniques involve good sanitation where foods are stored, prepared, eaten, and discarded. Also, using trash receptacles that have a tight lid and are cleaned as needed and regularly is important.  Control is not easy given that these insects usually nest in places that may be secluded and not frequently used. It is tempting to save gasoline or diesel fuel that is no longer useful, to kill ants, wasps, or bees with, but be aware of the risk these fuels may have if there is accidental skin or eye contact or inhalation. The flammable or explosive nature of old fuels may present more of a hazard than the insects you need to manage. Wasp and Hornet sprays can be used as a personal defense spray when directed at the face of an unwanted attacker – which may qualify it as a force multiplier.  

In conclusion, be prepared. Have your home and retreat pest proof. Seal cracks in walls and floors, use window screens and screen doors where appropriate and have a way to mend them. Include first aid items for insect bites and stings in your medical supply. Research and stock up on pesticides and repellents with an emphasis on those pests common to the area your home and retreat are in. Realistically guesstimate the quantities you may need or wish to have for barter or charity. Be cautious of who and what you allow into your home or retreat as they may bring insect pests. Always use good hygiene and sanitation. As preparations are made for TEOTWAWKI, please remember that it will be a long haul. My hope is that we will all thrive, not merely survive. If your arrangements have progressed past the Beans, Bullets, and Band-Aids stage, remember that you will have some company in the form of insects. Given the information above you can make some educated preparation. Now, of course, this information is not exhaustive and you should do more due diligence on this topic, just as you should with any other preparation. Where pesticides are used, it is the applicator’s legal responsibility to read and follow directions on the product label. None of the commercial products listed here are endorsed nor do I have any commercial interest by mentioning them. A physician, veterinarian, entomologist, nurse or pest control technician should be consulted if possible for more information, ideally before it is needed.

 

List of Items for Bug Management

  • Cortisone Cream
  • Benadryl Cream
  • Calamine Lotion
  • Benadryl Capsules
  • EpiPen
  • Neosporin, Triple Antibiotic Ointment
  • Crab Louse Insecticide containing Permethrin or Lindane
  • Avon Skin-So-Soft
  • Deep Woods Off – DEET 25%
  • Repel 100 – DEET 100%
  • Wasp/Hornet Spray
  • Hot Shot Spider Killer
  • Fly Swatters & Mosquito Nets
  • Bleach
  • Salt, Boric Acid, Baking Soda – in bulk
  • Tweezers
  • Louse Combs
  • Spray Bottles – generic
  • Other Items desired for your specific needs

 

References:
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention – Fact sheets
How to Manage Ants – University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources
Iowa State University Extension Department web site
DEETonline – web site
University of Wisconsin Extension Department web site
University of Florida – Medical Entomology Laboratory web site
US Environmental Protection Agency web site
US Department of Agriculture web site
Wikipedia

Author’s Personal Experience: Twenty years of Scouting: Scoutmaster, District Chairman, Board Member. More than 300 days and nights of camping (front country and back country). Firsthand experience with all of these pests while camping – except the bedbugs.