Odds ‘n Sods:

There is an EMP awareness, and specifically the HEMP threat from a nuclear Iran, event that is being hosted today, Feb 6th in DC featuring Sen. Ted Cruz, Amb. James Woolsey, Frank Gaffney and others (to which you are invited):

American Security and the Iranian Bomb: Analyzing Threats at Home and Abroad.

Event Details:

  • TIME: 10:30 a.m. ET – 12:15 p.m. ET
  • LOCATION: Reserve Officers Association, Minuteman Ballroom, One Constitution Avenue, NE, Washington D.C. 20002

You can also see a live webcast of the event at Homeland Threats.

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You can store almost anything in a mason jar, but getting a small amount out of it isn’t so easy when you have to unscrew the whole lid. The Kitchn has a neat hack to attach a flip-out pour spout to your mason jar with little effort. – RLH

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You will have to look at this entire page to get the full grasp, but the concept of the TED presentation is outstanding….and outlines the project. – RBS

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Wake Up And Realize That YOU Are America – SDS

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There is a heavy market campaign in progress over the R.I.P. bullet. I haven’t worked with any myself, though I understand the physics behind it. I can’t see where it is any different than products that have been on the market for years. It’s essentially a Glaser Safety Slug. The concept is to have a projectile that performs like a shotgun, yet actually holds together until impact. You end up with a light projectile that is frangible. I’m sure it performs well when it comes to ballistics gel, but that’s not real world performance. What happens when it hits bone? What about performance after penetration through windshields, glass, plywood, sheet metal, and heavy clothing? I’m not seeing anything new and innovative from it, except a slick marketing campaign that may be positioning the company for bad PR. Anybody remember Winchester Black Talon ammunition?

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In case you didn’t know it, you’ve been splitting wood all wrong. Actually, this gadget looks pretty intriguing. I may just have to try one myself. Be sure to watch the video. Sent in by T.P.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“The hunter has a purity of heart that exists nowhere else. I think he is not defined so much by what he has come to be as by all that he has escaped being. You can make no distinction between what he is and what he does. And what he does is kill. We of course are another matter. I suspect that we are ill-formed for the path we have chosen. Ill-formed and ill-prepared. We would like to draw a veil over all that blood and terror. That have brought us to this place. It is our faintness of heart that would close our eyes to all of that, but in so doing it makes of it our destiny. Perhaps you would not agree. I don’t know. But nothing is crueler than a coward; and the slaughter to come is probably beyond our imagining. Should we think about ordering? I’m famished.” – Cormac McCarthy, The Counselor



Notes from HJL:

Today we present two entries for Round 51 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $225),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand,
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589.
  3. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  4. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P .),
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  6. A full set of all 26 books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  7. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  8. EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles, is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  9. Autrey’s Armory — specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts, and accessories is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  10. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  12. Organized Prepperis providing a $500 gift certificate.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208.

Round 51 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Personal Survival Kit– The Pocket-size Giant of Preparedness, by R.B.

The Personal Survival Kit (PSK) is everywhere. If you Google it, up come 10,400,000 entries. What is it? Peace of mind, a force-multiplier, a breath-mint tin full of miracle producing ingredients, or maybe not! The PSK can be purchased ready-made online or in any camping store. These kits are diverse in contents and in price range, some being quite expensive. They are interesting but rarely are they exactly what any specific real-life survival situation requires. You will always have to add or subtract components in order to achieve the ideal kit. It is better to take the time and make your own PSK. The self-made kit will make you think about what survival is all about. The process of selecting each component will put you in direct contact with its function and your commitment to its possible future use in your hands.

The plethora of Internet how-to videos is presently making the self-made PSK the hot topic. Some are thoughtfully assembled and presented, but most go more in the direction of nonsensical fantasy, uselessness, and unrealistic imagined survival scenarios. Many presumed essential components of these PSK’s would unfortunately not save anyone’s life.

The Real PSK

Everyone has their own personal contingency. The Personal Survival Kit will neither save you from an E-5 twister, a category five hurricane, or an earthquake registering a 9.0 on the Richter scale, nor from floods, forest fires, or civil unrest. The most important tools to have with you in an emergency are practical experience and prudence.. You will ultimately have to save yourself in every survival scenario. The PSK is a wisely selected collection of effective back-up tools that will serve you once you decide what you will do next. It is there to support your resolve to take action and survive.

One foundational principle of survival is to know where you are and be able to locate yourself on a basic road map. If you had to abandon your vehicle and walk home, which way would you go? Wherever I travel, especially when driving, I keep a general sense of homeward direction. I still use hard copy maps and a compact road atlas. Even if I know where I am going on a repeat trip, without any need for a map, I habitually pay attention to directions with a sort of mental compass. Everyone, especially those who don’t have an innate sense of direction, should include some navigation aids in their PSK, since getting out of a bad situation usually involves moving and going.

Wherever my work takes me, I always have at least a minimalist PSK in my vehicle driver-side door, in my shoulder bag, or sometimes in my pocket. Your own PSK can be kept in your vehicle storage compartments, in your boat, in your aircraft, in a pocket in your backpack, or best of all, on your person in a pocket or purse.

A PSK Means Foresight

In an emergency situation, the immediate objective is positive, can-do, survival attitude. In the face of contrary predicaments, survival means to keep safe, keep dry, keep hydrated, keep fed, keep warm, keep alert, keep visible or invisible, keep connected, keep healthy, and stay alive. The last 36 months have produced enough extreme situations, both nationwide and abroad, where many people probably wished they had some sort of survival kit.

Building your PSK

Your PSK should be intentionally compact and practical, so as to avoid any excuse to leave it behind. If something were to happen where the PSK was your last resort, your life might depend on what’s inside. Every item should be your own personal choice. Even though budget priorities command how we invest in equipment, you can’t afford cheap. Doubtful and unproven components are not an option. Better-than-nothing is an unacceptable survival attitude.

Good Survival Books

Any comprehensive survival book covers the PSK. I have benefited from John McCann’s “Stay Alive” and “Building your own PSK”. Also good is the Tom Brown series or military handbooks. Ex-military authors usually cut the fat and get down to essentials. The PSK is a big fad right now, and there is a confusing array of things to buy, based on TV survival shows. Many of these highly commercialized gadgets are glorified toys. They are endorsed by survival stars who are actors. I would not entrust my life to any of them.

Basic principles

It comes as no surprise that the little phrase “God helps those who help themselves” exists in every known language. In survival scenarios, it frequently happens that little things make the big difference. Read, study, take notes, and learn now because the government’s emergency system cannot always save you. Your PSK is for you and yours, in line with your life’s immediate situational duties, your employment, and your extended range of activities. Most specific components can be had at reasonable cost, from ordinary sources such as grocery stores, drugstores, and hardware stores. Camping or military surplus stores offer a variety of specialized items, as well as imported knock-offs. Be selective and buy what really works. Online sources are located by using clear and precise search words for the item you want.

What is your PSK really for?

Question its ultimate purpose. Should your PSK help you to be more visible or more easily found? Will you be lost and, hopefully, the object of “search and rescue” efforts? In some scenarios, you want high visibility; bright, orange-colored and reflective items should be sought for the container and contents.. When stranded at night, it is good to be able to shine a light on yourself to oncoming traffic or potential “search and rescue” personnel. Shiny PSK components add more visibility. If bright colors are only preferred because you are concerned about dropping and losing your PSK contents, then put minimal landyards on the items you fear losing.

Modeled after military-issue PSK’s, should your kit be of the tactical type, to be able to disappear with you? Are you escaping and evading SHTF pandemonium or WROL disorder? Is wilderness or desert near where you live and work? Can you discreetly camp or make a fire where you are going? Is your situation more likely in an urban context? Your survival kit should be specific to your area of operations. PSK’s are as diverse as their owners and their respective contingencies.

The Container

The small tin format, immortalized by the Altoids breath-mint dispenser, has become the model. Despite the genius-level examples I have seen, I do not consider this to be completely serious or adequate. If your PSK absolutely has to fit inside your pocket, then be ready and willing to forego a lot of useful survival items. By going a little bigger, the greater benefits would exponentially outweigh the inconvenience. Worthy and larger variants to the Altoids tin do exist, such as watertight plastic boxes made by Otter, Pelican,and Plano. These run the gamut of either bright or subdued colors as well as camo.

Metal containers either larger or smaller than the breath mint tin are widely available. Larger would be ideal for a more developed PSK; smaller would be good for mounting on an edge tool sheath, such as a fixed blade survival knife or a machete. Smaller tins can be sub-containers inside the main container.

USA-made military organizers and pouches with buckles or zippers can be used for the PSK container itself or as a quickly identifiable storage case. These come in virtually any size, color, and configuration, with varying amounts of internal fixtures and sub-compartments. By themselves, they are good if soft and silent is a priority. Just be sure your choice will resist the elements.

My personal preference is for the metal tin concept, which is crush- resistant, and able to be put on a fire for boiling water or cooking. The shiny inside surface can be polished and used as a signal mirror. It should be waterproof, either with an internal gasket or sealable with heavy tape. Every shape and size can be found online. Sources are numerous, such as BestGlide.com or SurvivalResources.com, which offer many of the common sizes. Trangia.se and EcoLunchBoxes.com make larger sizes.

I tape my PSK tin shut. Tape can be re-used for other purposes in survival. Gorilla brand is available at any big-box home improvement store. PatriotOutfitters.com offers tactical tape in military colors and various widths. Go around the edge of your container several times so as to have more tape available for multi-tasking. Ranger bands made from bicycle inner tubes will keep your PSK closed but if the inner tubes are old, these bands will fail. Small diameter elastic shock cord is considered a multi-use survival item by the USMC. It can be used to keep your PSK closed, if you do not want to use tape. If you wrap paracord or anything else around the outside of your PSK, it must be able to slide off easily, allowing your kit to quickly deploy. Taping my PSK shut also reminds me not to borrow things from inside that I’ll forget to put back.

As it is for the container, so should it be for the contents. I like metal sub-containers. To me, metal PSK items seem better– more robust and less toy-like. My kit incorporates various metal items like a titanium whistle, brass button compass, zinc alloy flashlight, stainless steel signal mirror, and an aluminum match case.

PSK Tools

  • Maps and Compass.

    One foundational principle of survival is to know where you are and be able to locate yourself on a basic road map. If you had to abandon your vehicle and walk home, which way would you go? Wherever I travel, especially when driving, I keep a general sense of homeward direction. I still use hard copy maps and a compact road atlas. Even if I know where I am going on a repeat trip, without any need for a map, I habitually pay attention to directions with a sort of mental compass. Everyone, especially those who don’t have an innate sense of direction, should include some navigation aids in their PSK, since getting out of a bad situation usually involves moving and going.

    The compass is one of the survival big C’s : cutter, cordage, container, combustion, communication, compass. Navigation is for the scenario where you are either lost and needing to get your bearings, trying to get a sense of location on a map, or trying to move in a line towards a precise objective. The cardinal directions of the compass will be indispensible. Two accurate compasses should be part of the PSK; one primary compass should be kept on your person and a back-up one kept inside the kit.

    Every PSK wants to have the ingenious little button compass made famous in war movies. Brass is best for the button compass. Cheap plastic ones are unreliable and a gamble, at best. I’m not sure if I would entrust my life’s destiny to a $1.99 plastic button compass. The Francis Barker NATO brass button compasses are pricey, but they are trustworthy, while keeping in mind that button compasses are meant only for very general navigation. Only one button compass, from USA-made TruNord.com, is as accurate as bigger ones and worthy of total confidence in all conditions.

    The next size bigger is the watchband compass. This compass is excellent, accurate, and much better than even the good button compass. Cammenga, TruNord, and Suunto.com make these.

    Add a playing card size plastic laminated map of the USA, or cards with more specific maps, depending upon where you live and work or where you will be traveling. Copy and print them from map websites. The smallness of such map cards seems somewhat futile, but it is a big help in giving a general geographical sense of where you are, and is usually sufficient for getting your bearings.

    Slavomir Rawicz’s somewhat contested, but believable, biography “The Long Walk” was particularly long because the escapees from the WWII Siberian gulag did not know where to go. They did have a cobbled PSK of sorts, but only sketchy knowledge of their whereabouts in eastern European and Asian geography.

    In survival, even the smallest help can change everything for the better. You can print out survival instructions from the Internet and make your own quick information cards. If you are injured or compromised, someone else may have to utilize your PSK. Avery.com makes plain cards and labels any size to print out and add to your PSK.

    I do not keep a complete note pad in the PSK, but rather just a few loose Rite-in-the-Rain pages. Shorten the length of a pencil and sharpen it so it fits into your PSK container. I use a woodless, solid graphite pencil from the arts and crafts store. Sharpen the pencil with a metal sharpener, which will multi-task to make wood shavings from whittled sticks for fire tinder. In a pinch, you can remove and sterilize the pencil sharpener blade for first aid use.

    Add some surveyor flagging ribbon to your PSK in your choice of color (bright or subdued) for marking your way so as to avoid walking in circles, if you are disoriented. The true story of German officer Clemens Forrell’s escape from a Russian prison camp “As Far as my Feet will Carry Me” dramatizes this delirious episode. It frequently happens to hunters while they concentrate on stalking and inadvertently lose their bearings. Most hunters do not look at a compass when they start out in the direction of their game. Reversing the bearings to come back to camp becomes impossible. It only takes a minute to look.

  • Knife.

    A good knife is your number one tool. If you put one inside this kit, you have three choices– a folder, a multi-tool, or a small fixed blade. However, if your PSK attaches to a fixed blade sheath, the knife can be a big as you want. Do I really need to put a knife inside my PSK? What will be my eventual demands and expectations of an edged tool? Do I want a snap-off cutter refill blade or disposable scalpel blade only for fine cuts, or a broader use standard knife? If I choose a folder, can I still baton and process firewood without stressing and breaking it? Are there other blades and useful tools folded inside the valuable handle space? Can a small skeletal knife be made bigger with the addition of an improvised handle? There are plus-and-minus determinants for each type of tool.

    Ultra compact PSK-specific knives are now being produced by quality knifemakers, including the American Redoubt knife-making superstars (TOPS, Buck, CRKT), and also the common USA-made brands like Kershaw, ESEE, and Becker. They range from three to six inches in length or longer. Internet sources can be found by entering the search word “PSK knife.” Besides a multi-tool, which I carry on my person, I like the military variants of the Swiss Army Knife for my PSK. They are available in black, green, or camo. My SAK has a decent stainless steel blade that allows for one-handed opening and includes a saw, while other tools fill up the handle space. I add various grits of folded wet-or-dry sandpaper in the PSK for edge tool sharpening and other uses. Small sharpening stones removed from fold-up holders are very effective but less compact. Credit card size diamond sharpeners are excellent but a little pricey.

  • Multi-tools.

    Small multi-tools do fit well in the PSK tin, but how useful are they in a survival situation? Miniature/tiny fold-out blades and tools are not always ideal. A little extra room allowed for medium-sized tools could make a huge difference when the heat is on. Beyond the blade and pliers, everyone wants tweezers and scissors. The original Slip-N-Snip folding scissors are still made in Sweet Home, Oregon. SliverGripper.com produces Uncle Bill’s heavy duty tweezers. Although a sewing needle or knife tip can aid in the removal of splinters and other foreign elements that penetrate the skin, traditional tweezers are still the best. Cactus grows in my area of operations, requiring sufficient tweezers. A mini-tin of PRID traditional black drawing salve is a good follow-up to cactus run-ins and splinters.

  • Mini Prybar.

    The urban PSK tends to downplay the knife, since this can usually be carried separately. In its place is a combination tool or mini-prybar. These range from a truly functional miniature prybar to a wedge-shaped keychain accessory. Leatherman Piranha, Planet Pocket Tool, and Widgy Pry-bar are USA-made examples. Although their realistic prying force is surprising, the principle is to have an alternative to knife blades, which were not meant for leverage prying. In desperate emergency situations people panic and demand the impossible from whatever tool is in their hands. Urban PSKs frequently include other city-specific implements. VigilantGear.com offers versatile lock bypass tools. UltimateSurvival.com offers the saber-cut survival saw, which acts as a mini hacksaw.

  • Fire Making.

    Fire is an essential survival objective; it’s one of the big four– fire, shelter, food, and water. If fire-making is within your contingency, be sure to have multiple ways to make the fire that will warm you, protect you from animals, allow cooking, and purify water. Fire is useful for signaling with smoke during the day and flames at night.. Dry wood makes black smoke; wet wood makes white. The decision to build a fire should be the conclusion of much thought regarding necessity, safety, and discretion.

    In an urban scenario, metal-cased tea lights or small emergency candles fit in the PSK. The more real beeswax content, the longer the burn time. Light the candle, drip some wax on the intended fireproof emplacement, and it should stick in place, standing up. Compelling words on beeswax. A lip balm candle idea is great.

    Fire starter petroleum-impregnated cotton is still the favorite choice. You can put some in dedicated sealed drinking straw segments. I do not commit cotton balls or cotton wads from vitamin bottles to being greased up for fire starting until the need arises. I keep some form of first aid petroleum separate for the same idea of multi-tasking. Lip balm or ointments from first aid squeeze tubes work for fire as well as their intended purpose, but they are bulky if you want them in your PSK instead of your pockets. Purchase the single-use flat wrapped versions of these first aid items. Foil-wrapped single-application antibiotic ointment takes up little room. Add any of these to cotton balls for fast fire starting. Multi-task Remington gun wipes, alcohol wipes, military issue Trioxane, or Esbit, and WetFire cubes are all good fire tinders for open-air fires. Avoid breathing the fumes.

    Ferrocerium combination magnesium bars with an attached ferro rod, even the original military-issue, are over-rated. I have rarely had the chance to light a fire in idyllic, windless conditions. Magnesium shavings blow away, and the attached ferro rod can only be repeatedly struck on the same face. A good ferro rod is a major player in survival fire making. A plain one, without a handle and or plastic housing, is best; it’s the most compact, long enough to be firmly held by a gloved hand, and can be struck from either end. The minimalist ferro rod will not take up valuable space in the PSK. Camping Survival.com, Going Gear.com or Firesteel.com offer the best sizes.

    Coated blades and some stainless steels will not spark a ferro rod. To make the ferro rod spark well, the striker must be bare metal that is sharpened square with a burr on the edge, whether this be the back of a carbon steel tool blade or a dedicated striker. Practice by lightly scraping your finger across your intended striker. If it grabs your skin, it will do the same on a ferro rod. My back-up striker is the larger P-51 military can opener I filed with a square edge. How many uses does the can opener have? See “The Army’s Greatest Invention: the P38 Can Opener”.

    A compact disposable Bic-type lighter fits perfectly in the PSK, as well as any available clothing pocket or purse; the more the better. Refillable windproof or metal survival lighters are more durable but require extra lighter fluid. When making a PSK, it is practical to wrap things like extra tape and small diameter cordage around tubes. But common sense says not to wrap anything around a disposable object such as a lighter. Better to wrap material around something you will not throw away, like a metal matchcase. Put a small cable tie at the on-button of your PSK lighter to prevent it from inadvertently turning on while stored, since items in compact kits are generally very tightly compressed against each other. Break the cable tie only when you absolutely need that particular lighter. Additional cable ties are useful for other purposes. They also come in multiple colors for marking things for specific uses.

    NATO matches are frequently poor quality of unknown manufacture. Household strike-anywhere matches are surprisingly dependable. The Eco-green ones are not. Get the windproof-waterproof UCO long matches at camping supply stores.

    Keep matches in a waterproof metal container, if the plastic ones may be an issue. It makes sense to have fire-making elements stored in fireproof containers. Matches are used once, but the container can be re-used for other things. Original Marbles brand or old Boy Scout brass match containers are available, if you search around. The new ones you buy today are poorly made copies and are not waterproof. The long UCO matches need a slightly longer container. NuMyth and Exotac make watertight aluminum containers. K&M, a highly respected ma-and-pa American Redoubt enterprise, makes military grade brass containers.

  • Energy and Warmth.

    If fire cannot be made, what else can give you energy or warm you up in a pinch, at least to prevent hypothermia? Plastic sheeting or reflective mylar sheet materials, such as a survival blanket or a bivy bag, are my first choice. Wrap up, sit down, and, if possible, light a candle inside this thermal environment. It is not luxurious, but you will keep fairly warm. Grocery store tea-lights work, but not as well or as long as the UCO beeswax tea lights.

    Tea bags can be sucked on to increase alertness. Salty bouillon cubes are my favorite quick revitalizer. If you can light a fuel cube and put water in your PSK tin to make real bouillon, this is well worth the extra effort. Chewable vitamin tablets or hard candy help as well. Datrex.com still produces the classic miniature ration bars with a 5-year shelf life. In extreme military survival, the patriotic Tootsie Roll has a special history of its own; it story is a A “must read”.

  • Lighting.

    Single AAA battery nano flashlights or coin-size lithium battery-powered keychain lights will fit in the PSK. Energizer makes a metal-cased high tech key chain light. The original Photonlight.com is based in Blachly, Oregon, but beware of the fakes. Solar-powered keychain lights are absolute fakes, as well. Good lights require good batteries that need to be kept fresh. Before I entrust any light to my kit, I try it out for a while, keeping it in my pocket. Keep spare batteries in the kit. When packing your light into the PSK container, be sure nothing pushes against the on/off button.

  • Signaling.

    Everybody puts a signal mirror in their PSK. Even though anything shiny and reflective can be used for signaling, a dedicated mirror is more efficient. I’ve used both plastic and steel signal mirrors. If you are not familiar with signaling by sunlight, you can glue instructions on the back. An interesting credit card size steel signal mirror is available from American Redoubt located at SilentSignals.com.

  • Water.

    The dangers of dehydration make this the biggest of the “four big survival concerns”. Water wisdom: the dictum, “don’t eat unless you can drink,” is still one of the golden rules of survival. This is why, in general, most survival kits contain little or no food, though hydration is essential. Water and food procurement possibilities do remain primary ends of the PSK. Various military and survival authorities dispute how long a human can go without food. But all agree that hydration is critical. In survival, never pass up a water source if you find one, collect some and purify it while moving. If you find something better later on, you can always discard the less desirable water.

    You need two water specific items: a container and a method of purification. Beware of fast-acting water purification tablets. The best tablets require several hours of waiting for full effect. They come wrapped and sealed in foil, and identified with a printed expiration date. Be sure to know how many you have on hand. You can add packets of powdered sports drink mix to mask the iodine or chlorine taste. Space is a primary issue according to PSK principles, but essential items such as water purification should have a primary place.

    A compact filter-straw water purifier is a good addition to the PSK, if there is sufficient room. Not all filter-straws are created equal. Beware of the cheap ones. Water is life. DownUnder Military-approved Sure Aqua Survival straw is imported by Colorado-based SurvivalMetrics.com. Good straws are more expensive, and slightly less compact, but they are proven. They cease to function when their time is up, so there is no guessing about how much water they will purify. The cheap ones reach their expiration limit and you ingest any combination of deadly bacteria. Water filters are very sensitive to what touches them, so be sure to practice at home. Recognize how one small error could spell disaster, since bacteria is only microscopically visible. Remember also that wet water filters will freeze in extreme cold conditions.

    Avoid the common cheaply-made zip-lock style water bags. Aqua-Pouch, Nasco WhirlPak, and Loksak make survival-specific water bags for the PSK. They have space-saving, zip-lock style closures. The PSK tin makes for an ideal vessel for boiling water. A coffee filter or tablet-size compressed survival towels, which (once unwrapped) become washcloth size or bigger, serve as pre-filters. EZ Towel, Ultimate Survival Technologies, Hoods Woods or Uni-Tissue make these. A compressed sponge made by Miracle Sponge at Dick Blick.com, powderless nitrile surgical gloves or sterilized balloons can be used as makeshift water vessels.

  • Food gathering.

    This is another one of the four survival elements. Animal trapping and fishing seem like a time-consuming gamble, but certain situations allow for this with much-appreciated results. Better to have the means and not need it than to be completely without and suffer a missed opportunity. Keep some brass or stainless snare wire, which can be used for many things besides snares. Craft stores sell all kinds of fine gauge wire. Maybe add an ESEE AH-1 arrowhead, an impressive miniature spear.

    Gripping examples of real-life extreme survival food gathering are found in one famous WWII story of the Norwegian commandos “Assault in Norway.” BBC sponsored a re-enactment led by survival celebrity Ray Mear, with many failures. See The Real Heroes of Telemark. Hunting for food in a survival situation can be very trying. Practice first. Learn how to skin and cook unusual and less desirable animals you might trap, which would normally not very appetizing. Declassified military instruction film demonstrates these skills.

    Fishing obviously presumes being near natural bodies of water or canals. Be sure your mini kit is what catches the local fish– the bait they like, right size hooks, and appropriate line. Braided filament such as Spider Wire has many uses besides fishing, whereas monofilament degrades quickly. Soft tree bark, bits of wine bottle cork and foam ear plugs will float for makeshift bobbers. Store your fishing kit as a sub-kit in something like an Altoid small tin. Smaller slide-top tins are available on-line at Papermart.com and others under the search : small metal tins.

  • Bandana.

    SurvivalMetrics.comoffers a head bandana with established survival instructions printed on it. My choice is a piece of cloth from fabric stores where good materials like silk, wool, linen, can be found by the yard, in bright or subdued colors of your choice. Any bandana should be sized so as to double as a cravat-scarf for a first aid sling. The bandana also serves as an effective pre-filter for water collection.

  • Shelter.

    A painter’s clear plastic drop cloth is light and compact. You can get them in various mil-thicknesses and dimensions. Ultra light is less re-usable. Close up your shelter with this and light a fire out front, if it is feasible. This mini-greenhouse keeps you warmer than in an open lean-to style configuration. If you are in a natural duff-debris shelter, put the painter’s drop-cloth down as a water barrier, either on the ground or overhead as a cover, adding more debris for insulation. This is much better than a mylar blanket, which should be saved and used around you as a personal wrap.

    If you pack a larger-size PSK and include a tarp, pre-tie cordage to corners and most often used tie-offs in between corners. The tarp should thus be ready to deploy quickly. Space blankets, plastic sheets, and trashcan liners and ponchos that lack grommets can easily be used as tarps as shown at.

  • The SPACE Blanket.

    This is the iconic survival item. Though many knock-offs exist, http://GrabberWorld.com still makes the original Mylar blanket. Blaze orange or O.D. green are available on one side, if visibility is wanted or unwanted. Hypothermia is overcome by wrapping yourself in the blanket to create a thermal barrier. Add a metal encased tea candle to heat up the inside. An excellent instruction on the space blanket is available. U.K.-based Blizzard Survival.com has a full range of space blanket configurations. They are widely available at U.S. suppliers. They make the mylar ponchos and vests that fold up for a compact PSK, too.

  • Cordage.

    Pre-cut single or double shoelace lengths of cordage. Then make quick-release braided chains. Coiling will knot up when you try to unravel it in a hurry. 550 military-invented paracord is touted as the best for a PSK. The inner strands can be used for filament or other low-strength applications. Paracord bracelets deploy easily, yielding about 8 to 12 feet. I carry my cordage outside of my PSK. Better to keep some extra around your neck or waist, or wrap it around the PSK so as to slide it off quickly. Despite all the praise for 550 cord, there are other PSK-specific options. AtwoodRope.net makes the compact 3/32″ cord. Nylon twisted or braided masonry line, bankline, decoy line, or 65-pound spider wire braided fishing line will all easily do the job, as well as 550 cord, where strength is less important. The 550 paracord does remain a backbone of any PSK, whatever length you choose, but you will never regret additional smaller cordage.

  • Carabiners.

    Stay away from the brightly colored toys, key chain, and water bottle ornaments. They are dangerous when any trust is placed in their effectiveness. Get the real thing, so it can be truly put to use, if the need arises. I wouldn’t keep any carabiners inside the PSK; instead, attach them on the outside of the carrying case. If things need to be clipped together, use a small Nite-Ize metal S-biner or any size split ring. They are more effective than toy carabiners.

  • Foil.

    Neatly-folded aluminum foil is a popular PSK item, but it is next to useless for repeated use. Aluminum foil melts and burns in a hot campfire. Heavy foil, used in backpacking stove windscreens, is better and obtainable through online suppliers. Fold up a small aluminum foil baking pan and you will have something for boiling water if you opt out of the metal PSK container.

  • The Survival Saw.

    The compact G.I.-issue wire saw is often a misnomer. Make sure it is the real item based on the original medical-use Gigli wire saw. Every manufacturer uses survival, military, and/or commando buzzwords. Knock-offs will quickly fail and even break in your hands with a little stressing. There are dubious claims that these saws will cut bolts and padlocks. There is also a pocket chainsaw, utilizing field-made handles, that works fairly well. Tests prove that all survival saws are fragile, and their proven use varies. See Survival Saws. What do you need to saw? If padlocks, bolts, and door hinges are barriers in an urban scenario, try a plan-B alternative passage first. The saw on the multi-tool or SAK should be enough for most woodland survival sawing purposes. The wire saw is compact and worth a chance, if it can be used properly. Practice with one; you may or may not like it. Quick-use firewood can be broken with hands and legs.

    Reality survival is intense and improvised. Minimalism is nearly always the right measure for survival. Your PSK should be enough. Elaborate tools made in the field seem to be less essential in a true survival situation. They appear to be more at home for extended primitive camping and bushcraft recreation.

  • The Fresnel magnifying lens.

    Will you have time, along with a cloudless sky, to sit and magnify sunlight to make a fire? Fire making is best covered by the ferro rod, matches and lighter. However, if you use reading glasses, the magnifier will help if your glasses are lost.

  • IFAK and PSK crossovers.

    The survival tin cannot always double as an Individual First Aid Kit (IFAK), but some minimal space-saving items are useful and welcome. A small assortment of Band-Aids, Steri-strips, a patch of Moleskin, Burn-Aid pads are thin and lay flat in the PSK. Anti-staph alcohol wipes such as Hibistat multi-task for a variety of clean-up needs. Betadine wipes and triple antibiotic singles take up little space as well. Single-dose pain relievers and both allergy and sting medicines fit inside any PSK. Add assorted sewing needles with eyelets big enough to take braided fishing line and dental floss. Not sure if I would ever suture myself, but at least for repair, the humble needle and thread saw the beginning of everything you are wearing. A few safety pins can be added to the repair items. Foil wrapped single-use scalpel blades are my preference over safety razor blades, they can be easily resharpened for non-medical repeat use. Scalpel handles can be re-sized for your kit. In wilderness survival scenarios, most people are justifiably worried about insect and snake bites.

Your PSK will be a diminutive giant of preparedness in your travels, wherever you need to go. Choose your components based on your personal situation. Upgrade and improve your collection of small but effective tools, use them, and be familiar with their multiple uses. Peace of mind will ensue, knowing that you have an effective real-life kit ready to support your plan of action. R.B.



I Awoke Around 9 AM Saturday, August 18, by OldAlaskan

I awoke around 9am on Saturday, August 18, 1992. I work the grave yard shift. The news was still about Mt. Spurr, located about 78 miles southwest of Anchorage, Alaska and on the west side of Cook Inlet. Little did I know the next four days would be some of the more interesting days of my life.

[Seismicity remained low through July and the first half of August. Seismic monitoring of the volcano was somewhat compromised by the destruction of the crater rim station. Despite repeated attempts to reinstall the crater-rim station, the closest seismometer was now 4.8 km away. Only one shallow and two deep events were recorded between 12 August and 17 August. Perhaps the 27 June eruption “opened” the conduit, and allowed magma to rise undetected.]

I worked, then, as an aircraft mechanic for a major airline at the Anchorage International Airport in Anchorage, Alaska. I was slated to go to work at 6pm that night and did what any father does on a Saturday with his boys.

[At 1538 on 18 August a 16-min episode of weak tremor including several LP events began. At 1548 a pilot reported an ash-rich plume. The main eruption began at 1642 when strong tremor was recorded on all Spurr stations. By 1658 a subplinian column thrust through low clouds to reach 11 km altitude. Large bombs were thrown 750 m above the vent Ultimately, the radar-determined plume top reached about 14 km — pilot reports were higher. Small pyroclastic flows descended the east and southeast flanks of Crater Peak. Some flows were dry and hot, and left coarse, clast-supported deposits with lobate, steep-fronted margins. Other flows mixed with snow and ice high on the cone and were more mobile and cooler. A late shower of mostly lithic blocks as large as 1 m were hurled as far as 3.8 km southeast of Crater Peak. The southeastward distribution of these deposits was controlled by the position of the vent against the northwest crater wall. More than 170 lightning strikes were detected by the AVO lightning detection system during the second half of the eruption. Eruption ended after 3 hours and 28 minutes at 2011, but intermediate and deep crustal seismicity increased afterward to levels comparable to those of mid-June.]

In the afternoon the Emergency Broadcast System activated on both the television and radio, warning the residents of Anchorage of the impending ash plume and instructing people to take shelter in their homes, to tape all door and window seals, and to place wet towels on the floor at the base of the door. We were also warned not to drive our vehicles for the next 24 hours or more because of the expected ash fall, and if we had to drive after the ash fall, to drive slowly so as to not stir up the ash that fell.

[The volume of August tephra is about 110×106 m3 (40×106 m3 DRE). Upper-level winds took the tephra plume east-southeast directly over Anchorage where sand-sized ash fell as thick as 3 mm. Beyond Anchorage, the axis of the plume crossed the Chugach Mountains and followed the coast toward Yakutat Bay. At Yakutat, 550 km downwind, ash fall was significant; at Juneau, 1000 km downwind, the plume was opaque enough to disrupt air traffic. Ash fall forced the closing of Anchorage International Airport for 20 hours. Air-quality alerts were issued during the ash fall and on the following day, as vehicular traffic resuspended the ash.]

When I heard the warning I informed my wife and children that I would be going to work early and to stay indoors until I came home. As I went to work people were hurrying home to avoid the approaching dust cloud. As I drove west on International Airport Road and as I crossed the bridge over the Minnesota Parkway, I looked to my left toward the Kenai Peninsula and could see the approaching ash cloud and the lightning flashing inside of it. The first thought I had was “is this how the end of the world will look like” and, ”what did I get myself into.” I made it to the maintenance office and checked in with operations to let them know that the maintenance department was manned and confirming that all flights to Anchorage were suspended until further notice. I called the other mechanics and informed them I would man the office, and they were to stay home. Four years later, I learned that this incident would be one of many items that would be used against me to terminate my employment, reinforcing the saying “no good deed goes unpunished”.

As the ash cloud approached, I went outside to experience it firsthand. Before the cloud arrived, it became eerily quiet. There was no bird noise to be heard. In fact there were no birds to be seen. Usually there are seagulls in the area and swallows flying around catching insects, and looking under the jet ways at their mud nests you could see two heads poking out of their nests. There was lightning flashing from cloud to cloud and as the ash cloud overcame me, even though I was under an overhang, the odor of sulfuric acid was strong and my exposed skin had a slight burning sensation. Breathing was uncomfortable, and my eyes started to burn from the acid in the air. In fact, it became downright uncomfortable being outside within a few minutes. I went back inside for the night. The next morning I drove home very slowly. We were warned not to use our windshield wipers to remove the ash from our front windows because the silica in the ash would scratch the windshields; we were instead to use water to wash the ash off the windows. In a few hours there were no gas masks, face masks, painter’s masks ,or anything like them in the town of Anchorage. Also gone were air filters and oil filters for most popular makes of vehicles. The best type of air cleaner for a vehicle is the oil bath type of air cleaner; AMZOIL sells a good oil-in-foam vehicle air cleaner. Many people sprayed rags with WD-40 and loosely placed them either into or tied around the intake horn of their air cleaners in the hope of trapping the abrasive silica and keeping it from going into their engine. During this event, which closed Anchorage Airport for 20 hours, the following night a KLM passenger 747 flew through the ash cloud on approach to Anchorage. They did not see the ash cloud in the dark night and, depending on who or which account you listen to and believe, the ash (which is mostly sand) entered the engines and coated the jet turbine blades with molten glass from the ingestion of the sand (ash) through the engine into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Three engines shut down from air loss and imbalance as the molten glass coated the turbine blades unevenly. The last one had a severe power loss. This airplane was coming out of the sky! The APU (Auxiliary Power Unit) was started by a quick-thinking flight engineer. This is necessary to provide air to the “Air Starters” on the jet engines to get them started. Long story short and many stained panties at about 5,000 or 10,000 feet (depending on who you talk to), the airplane landed at Anchorage International Airport. It stayed parked at the base of the tower for many months, until Boeing mechanics came and replaced all four engines, the APU, all air ducts, the air conditioning packs, and all of the windows. The ash cloud sand blasted the windows (the pilots’ windshields and the passenger windows), turning them opaque.

In an effort to help speed the city’s cleanup, the City of Anchorage announced that residents could go to their area fire station and get old fire hose, a nozzle, and a hydrant wrench to wash the ash out of neighborhood driveways and streets. Some people swept up the ash to sell to pottery makers and glass blowers. Not to contradict Hollywood, but a fire hydrant usually cannot be opened by a vehicle hitting it. The plug is spring loaded closed so you must turn it backwards (counter clockwise) to push the plug down into the pipe. I live close to a hydrant, so in my shed I now have a hydrant adapter where I can hook up two hoses to the large outlet of the hydrant. My system includes lever (ball) valves for both hoses, 650 feet of hose (enough to reach both of the neighbors’ houses on either side of me if there isno fire department response in a SHTF event), hose nozzles, and a hydrant wrench. I don’t have these for my neighbors’ benefit but to save my house from being burned down if their houses catch fire.

What did I learn from this event? At the time, I wasn’t considered a “prepper,” but up here you never know when the big one will hit again. We had some food, water, and oil lamps in the event we couldn’t get to the grocery store for a few days or if power was cut, since our electricity is from natural gas turbine generation. There was some concern at the time about power. We had our camping gear for cooking. We have two Coleman two-burner propane camp stoves, several one-pound bottles of propane, and a hose with an adaptor to attach to a 20 pound (or larger) bottle with a splitter to allow the use of two stoves at once. You can buy these at most camping stores. Painter’s masks were gone in a matter of hours, so we now have 100 paper painter’s masks and gas masks for our family. Vehicle air filters for the most popular brands were sold out in hours as were some oil filters. So I now have extra filters (more than two) for all of my vehicles, plus oil and grease. I have a double metal wall locker in my garage with all of this as well as windshield washer fluid, 50/50 antifreeze, RainX, wiper blades, spare hoses and belts, clean cloth rags, and other automotive items. Also, if I was uncomfortable being outside during the event, so will your animals. Bring them inside or provide shelter or some sort of protection for your pets and livestock. Have various size tarps or a roll of visqueen available for quick emergency shelters. With visqueen, take a stone, fold a piece of visqueen over it, and tie a rope around it. Now you can tie it up or get tarp kits at the camping area of your favorite store. Fortunately, there was no adverse civil activity during the event. This could be that at that time, most of the people here had some sort of cache of food, and many of us have at least one or more firearms and the will to use them. Also, I have in my home two sets of plastic window insulation kits. You can get these kits at hardware stores. They have double back (carpet) tape and a very clear plastic sheet. You place the tape around the window casing or trim inside of your home then use a hair drier to shrink it. This, in the winter, gives another layer of insulation for your windows or, in this case, another seal to keep the ash out. They give you some protection, andthey are clear enough to see through.

While this event was, for many of us, simply a minor inconvenience, it was serious for the elderly and people with asthma and other respiratory health issues.

Few people live near a volcano, yet there is always the threat of the large caldera known as Yellow Stone or Mount St. Helens to come alive again. Also, some of these tips could be used in a “Polar Vortex”– winter for most of us.

[Notes from Alaska Volcano Observatory]



Letter: New Madrid Danger Explained

Dear Editor,

I am a Geologist. I wanted to give the short answer as to why the New Madrid Fault complex is dangerous. And this IS the short answer.

  1. It is Still Active and always will be. Central-Cratonic faults never completely de-stresses.
  2. New Madrid quakes Destroyed the Pre-Colombian Mississippi Mound Builder Civilization.
  3. New Madrid quakes Destroyed the region in 1811-2 with aftershocks all the way through the Civil War.
  4. The New Madrid Fault Complex is around 9 different faultlines connected together, each capable of 7.5+ quakes. A quake on one shifts the stress to trigger a quake on another. They don’t all happen at once.
  5. Quakes are felt on the entire continent sharing what’s called the Cratonic Shield, which is basically continental shield rock that runs from the Rockies to the Atlantic down to Florida and Mexico, and all the way to the Arctic Ocean. So most of the USA’s Midwest, East, South and Canada. The South and Midwest will feel it most, but that whole shield will feel it.
  6. During the 1811-12 quakes church steeples swayed so much that their bells rang… in Boston. The whole East and middle of the country will feel these quakes, except the West which is isolated by very different geology and many intervening faultlines.
  7. Last time the ground reshaped so severely that it changed the course of the Mississippi River, making it flow backwards before it found its way around the new high ground.
  8. Shaking caused liquefaction along several hundred miles of the River.
  9. Sand geysers erupted 150 feet into the air, complete with coal and natural gas that caught fire. Sulfur dioxide gas (more poisonous than Cyanide) was also described in journals by survivors.
  10. Entire log cabins flipped over, sank into the ground, or both. In modern times, most levees, bridges, roads build across water saturated ground, and probably earthen dams are doomed in quakes over 7.5 magnitude.
  11. Shaking was described as over 3 minutes.
  12. Where you are affects what the shaking does. On hard rock you’ll feel it badly, however your house won’t sink into the ground. This is greatly complicated by things called Nodes, as you find with sound waves. This is why some buildings collapse and others near them are largely undamaged.
  13. What your home is built from matters. Unreinforced masonry (brick) fares BADLY in an earthquake. Stick lumber with foundation anchor bolts has the best survival in a quake, as shown in Western homes.
  14. In the Loma Prieta (Bay Area 1989) quake, many people with private wells saw them cut off due to ground shifting and had to be redrilled and recased and a new pump installed. Factor that cost in.
  15. Ground waves from that LP quake also destroyed underground water and sewer lines and the state funded and quietly taxed for the replacement which took 10 years. During that time millions were exposed to contaminated drinking water full of cholera since sewer and water lines are often close to each other under the streets. Those $$ billions are still being paid off as municipal bonds.
  16. The cost of repairing utilities and roads destroyed by multiple 7.5+ quakes affecting the Entire East Coast, South, and Midwest is $$ trillions. They will have to be done several times due to major aftershocks years later breaking them again. The repairs cost more than the country can pay. Giving up public utilities is a major step down in civilization and will lead to disease outbreaks.
  17. Unchecked flooding from ruptured levees and dams allows for many more mosquitoes, and malaria should be expected to make a comeback, along with cholera and typhoid fever and new infections like Dengue.

That’s the short version. For some idea of what severe ground shaking can do, see the Anchorage 1964 quake. Sincerely, – I.K.



Letter: Heating Concern in LP/OP

Dear Hugh,

As we remain in a long lasting frigid winter in northern Ohio, I question how anyone could maintain long term diligence in a listening/observation post that is partially open to the elements. I struggle with ways to provide a heat source without compromising a tactical location. I have read survival blog for many years, but have not seen this important concern addressed. Perhaps you will find this a notable concern, and I request this be forwarded to the masses to solicit ideas for solutions. Thanks for your consideration. – B.B.

HJL Replies: I’ve never served in the military, but I’m sure those readers who have can shed some light here. It seems to me that being in an LP/OP is not that different that sitting in a duck blind. I have spent many a cold morning sitting in a hole in the ground with partial shelter on the sides. Sometimes we had overhead shelter and sometimes not. When the temperature would drop down to 0 degrees or below, I often wondered to myself why I was even there. Of course, there was humor too, making fun of the icicles growing of the end of each of our noses. We tried all the gadgets, from battery-powered socks to Coleman fuel-powered hand warmers. The battery powered socks worked, but they were a novelty that soon broke. The Zippo hand warmer worked well though. I used only one and would put it in my trigger hand pocket. If I started to lose feeling in that hand, I would remove the glove and shove that hand into the pocket to warm it up. I would also shift pockets if the other hand needed it as well. There are some general rules that you have to abide by to stay warm though. You will need more layers than you would otherwise, and they must be layers. Sitting in one position, you won’t have the opportunity to move around and generate warmth. You must have enough layers on so that you stay warm sitting still. As the temperature fluctuates, you need to be able to peel layers off or put them back on so you don’t sweat or freeze. You also have to stay off the cold ground. You need padded seats that won’t collapse to become flush with the floor when you sit on them. You also need to get your boots off the ground when you can to help with cold feet. Blankets work well on multiple levels. They help keep you warm and they can break up your visual pattern. I also used mittens as well as glove liners. I had a pair that had a slit in the palm that would allow me to pull my hand out to use the shotgun.



Economics and Investing:

Putting Silver Price Rigging Into Perspective

Is California built out?Privately owned housing starts remain all-time record lows. Affordability continues to crush home buying but signs of lower prices loom.

Is your money safe at the bank?An economist says ‘no’ and withdraws his

Items from The Economatrix:

India’s Central Bank Governor: ‘International Monetary Cooperation Has Broken Down’

Nearly 1/2 Of America Lives Paycheck-To-Paycheck

Index Of Consumer Sentiment Dips



Odds ‘n Sods:

This article touches on a sensitive topic with the government. China has been testing their new high speed missile and it has the Pentagon concerned. We have repeatedly announced that we will shoot down any missile that is to close to us, our allies or our forces, Yet every test that violates that has flown successfully. Can we shoot them down? Are we just chosing not to?

o o o

B.R. sent this link in: Important Safety Tip: Tape Your Batteries With Electrical Tape!. I have, on more than one occasion, nearly set my pocket on fire as batteries were shorted out by keys or pocket change. Lessons learned the hard way.

o o o

RLE sent this article in: Private Citizens stop 16% of mass shootings. You may not have known the numbers, but you already knew that it happened.

o o o

JBG sent this in: Do we face a disastrous century due to global cooling?. I know global warming is all the rage right now, but if you were around in the ’70s, you’ll remember it was global cooling. Full circle?

o o o

You can’t celebrate America, school says – sent in by B.E. – Just a couple of reasons why I believe in homeschooling.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“History is full of insurrectionists who, when they gain power, became imitators of what they overthrew.” – Marvin Olasky, World Magazine, l998



Notes from HJL:

—–

Today we present another entry for Round 51 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $225),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand,
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589.
  3. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  4. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P .),
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  6. A full set of all 26 books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  7. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  8. EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles, is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  9. Autrey’s Armory — specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts, and accessories is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  10. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  12. Organized Prepperis providing a $500 gift certificate.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208.

Round 51 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Nine Ways To Be More Self-Sufficient (Even If You Live In The City), by K. Sowell

Many people are intimidated by the idea of becoming more self-sufficient or preparing for disaster because of the misconception that you have to live in the country or at least have a bug-out location in order to do so. This simply isn’t true. There are many things urban or suburban dwellers can do to improve their chances of surviving or even thriving in the event of a disaster when leaving is not an option. A little thoughtful preparation can prevent you and your loved ones from becoming victims in an unstable situation, even if you live in the city and don’t have a lot of room to spare.

Here are nine ways you can make yourself more self-sufficient; less dependent on frequent trips to the grocery store; able to take care of injuries and illnesses in an emergency; and defend yourself, your family, and your property. Even if you can only do a couple of these things right now, you’ll still be ahead of the game while you work toward implementing the others:

  1. Invest in a water filter. My family uses a Big Berkey every day. (I am not affiliated with them in any way.) I run our tap water through it to purify and make it taste better, and it couldn’t be easier to use. Do some shopping to find a water filter that fits your budget and your space. It is critical in a disaster to have clean water. This cannot be stressed enough. You will need it for drinking, washing, and cooking. So, invest in the best one you can afford because cases of bottled water will not be enough, even if you have the space to store them.
  2. Build an emergency medical kit. When someone in the family is sick, do you have to run to the corner pharmacy for pain reliever or cough medicine? Someday, that might not be possible. Over-the-counter medications are easy to buy, have relatively long shelf lives, and don’t take up much storage space. Watch for sales and make use of preferred-customer programs to save on the ones you are likely to use for colds/flu, coughs, fever, stomach problems, and allergies. You’ll need plenty of bandages in all sizes as well as rubbing alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, and antibiotic ointment for cuts and such. Add a few Ace bandages and ice packs for sprains and muscle/joint injuries, and don’t forget to include hand sanitizer and soap. Again, if the grid goes down, sanitation instantly becomes a priority. When you can obtain extra prescription medications for chronic conditions, do so and make sure you keep an eye on their expiration dates to ensure their effectiveness when they are needed. A well-stocked medical kit, rather than a huge stockpile of food, may be the one thing that saves your life.
  3. Keep a few hens. Yes, real chickens. Backyard Chickens is a great site for more information about keeping urban hens. Check your local ordinances if you live in a city. Many do not allow roosters, which is not a problem unless you want chicks, and some communities require a certain size yard. Hens are easier to care for than a dog and will reward you with fresh, nutritious eggs with minimal work. The only real concern is predators– dogs, cats, raccoons. They will need a safe home, but there are numerous ways you can house them. You can make your chicken coop as attractive as you wish. Healthy hens will lay almost every day, so if you have four of them you may get two dozen eggs a week. If that’s too many for your family, sell a few eggs to friends and family. Then, use the money to buy your chicken feed; your happy hens will be supporting themselves. In a worst case scenario where you cannot leave your house or all the grocery stores are sold out, you will have a source of protein in the form of eggs or the hens themselves. They also produce great fertilizer for your garden, which brings us to gardening.
  4. Grow some vegetables and/or fruits. You don’t have to have an actual garden plot; just a few plants in pots will serve you well. You can grow sweet onions, tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, cucumbers, herbs, and berries; grow whatever your family eats. Your produce will be more flavorful and nutritious than any you can buy at a supermarket and you can be sure that it is chemical-free. What do you do with your extra produce, which you are certain to have? Give it to friends or family; barter with it; or preserve it by drying, freezing, or canning. A single cucumber plant can yield several quarts of pickles in a season, even after eating many of them fresh. Just a couple of tomato plants can ensure a freezer full for the winter. The only vegetables that can’t really be preserved and therefore must be eaten fresh are lettuces. Still, they can be grown almost year-round in most areas in order to never be without fresh salad greens.
  5. Learn to can. It’s really quite simple and very rewarding to preserve your own food in jars. First, you absolutely must get the Ball “Blue Book”, which is usually right alongside the canning jars in your local mega-mart. Your grandmother probably has an old copy of it somewhere. It’s pretty much the authority on home canning and breaks it all down into simple, easy-to-follow instructions for you. You will need a canner (the big pot you process the jars in) and jars with two-piece lids, commonly called “mason jars”. Boiling-water canners are about $20 and will enable you to can ONLY acidic foods such as pickles, jams, fruits, etc. To can foods that have a higher pH such as potatoes, corn, beans, and carrots, you will need a pressure canner. Pressure canners are a bit more expensive, but it is worth noting that you can use a pressure canner to preserve any type of food since it can also be used to can acidic foods in place of a boiling water canner. Jars are usually less than $10 per dozen so there is minimal investment for the return you’ll get. Don’t be intimidated; it’s a great feeling to look in your pantry and see shelves of pretty jars of food you “put up” yourself.
  6. Get a stand-alone freezer. This can be a big investment or a small one, depending on what size you want and how much you can afford to spend. The idea is to freeze as much food as you can when it is on sale or in season so you can eat it year-round. The National Center for Home Food Preservation ( has a great site that will tell you how to freeze just about anything from meats to fruits. You can also keep extra grain or flour in your freezer to prolong its shelf life and keep it safe from insects and rodents. A well-stocked freezer will enable you to eat for weeks without a single trip to the supermarket and, in the event of power loss, a full freezer will maintain its temperature rather well (unlike a refrigerator), as long as is not opened too frequently.
  7. Learn to bake bread. Don’t let anyone tell you that baking bread is hard. That’s just nonsense. Millions of illiterate peasants have been doing it for ages! Bread is simple and satisfying and, in a worst-case scenario, you could feed your family on little more. Bread and a few small slices of meat, cheese, or an egg makes a sandwich. Bread with some veggies and some melted cheese is pizza. The shortest bread recipes tend to be the best and only contain flour, water, sugar (or honey), salt, and yeast– all things you should keep in your house at all times. Variations are endless and simple: to make the bread softer, replace the water with milk and add a tablespoon of oil. You an add some chopped garlic or nuts and cinnamon. Do whatever you like, but do it! Bake several loaves once a month and freeze them, or make fresh sandwich buns every week. Do whatever works for you. A word of caution, though; bbread baking can be addictive.
  8. Purchase at least one firearm and get comfortable using it. Imagine being the only person on your block who has food in a disaster. Imagine being the only house with potable water. You will need to defend yourself and your family. If you are not comfortable around guns, then get comfortable. You can be sure the guys that are willing to steal from you are. Buy ammunition every chance you get, too.
  9. Homeschool your children. I realize this may be a big step for some, but consider that in the event of a disaster (whether natural or mad-made), you will want your children with you. If you have to relocate unexpectedly, school will not be a problem. They can continue their studies wherever you find yourselves. Of course, the most compelling reason to homeschool, in my opinion, is so that you can cultivate in your children the knowledge, principles, and values that are important to you while you take full responsibility for their education. You don’t have to enumerate all the problems with our public school system to understand that responsible parents are better equipped to educate their own children than those government-run institutions that resemble prisons more than schools. I live in a state that is very homeschool-friendly; resources are readily available and it’s not difficult to find other homeschooling families. However, if homeschooling is less common where you live, I recommend exploring the Internet for inspiration and ideas, if you are unsure about homeschooling. It is a lifestyle change, but one that is immensely rewarding and will give your family a degree of independence that will be an advantage in an unstable world.

Like so much in life, being prepared is more of a way of thinking than anything else. Anyone can do it, regardless of where they live. You don’t need land in the country or vast storage space – you can survive a disaster right in the middle of a city, if you are adequately prepared.



Guest Article: Taxed Enough Already, by A.H.

How many articles have you read about prepping on a budget? This website and many others have explored the topic in depth. Grow your own food, buy in bulk, cut unnecessary expenses, learn to improvise, and get out of debt. The old saying is “use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without”. We should all be following this advice. At the same time, we should ask the obvious question, ‘Wwhy are so many of us on such a tight budget these days?”

One reason may be that your income has decreased, stagnated, or disappeared. If you are unemployed, under employed, retired, or disabled, it will be harder to make ends meet. Even if you are still working, your paycheck may not be keeping up with inflation. Despite the government statistics, the basic necessities cost more than they used to. Think of all your expenses: housing, food, fuel, clothing, transportation, education, entertainment, and communication. Modern life isn’t cheap.

There is one expense that we often take for granted– taxes. Have you ever sat down and thought about how much of your monthly budget goes directly or indirectly to pay taxes? Typical state and federal income tax can cost you 20-30% of your entire salary. Then there is the cost of sales tax and property tax. Don’t forget about social security and payroll taxes. How about licensing and governmental fees/tariffs that are just disguised taxes?

Gather up all your bills and take a close look at how much of each bill involves a direct tax. You probably pay tax on your cell phone service, cable bill, fuel bill, and shopping bills. Next time you fill-up your gas tank, check the receipt for how much tax you paid to the state and federal government.

In addition, think of the indirect taxes you pay for that tank of gas. What percentage of the price of gas comes from taxes the oil company had to pay and pass on to the consumer? The companies themselves often pay property tax, payroll tax, income tax, and other taxes. What does gasoline really cost, minus all the added expense of indirect taxes passed on to you? What would a loaf of bread cost, or how much less would your rent be if we weren’t subject to all these taxes?

Lowering or eliminating taxes to free up money in your budget is not a ground breaking idea. However, taking the time to actually add up how much you pay in taxes every month could turn the most devout socialist to a Tea Party conservative pretty quickly. You are not paying $400 per month for gas, but really $340 for gas and $60 towards direct taxes. Of that $340 for gas, perhaps another $20 is for indirect taxes passed on to the consumer. For your convenience, the gas station collects the government’s direct tax. You never miss this money because the tax is included as part of the price per gallon.

We need to think about taxes differently, and start asking new questions. Why do we allow private companies to collect taxes for the government? How long do these companies get to hold on to our money before they send it to the government? Why can’t I opt out of this scheme?

When I fill up my tank, I want to pay for gas. Unless I agree to it, I don’t want the gas station collecting taxes from me. At the end of the year, I can send the government a check for all the taxes I owed for the privilege of buying gas and other taxed goods and services. In the meantime, all that tax money is my money and earning interest or available for investment.

More importantly, writing this tax check would not be easy for many people. They would realize how much money they are throwing away to a wasteful government to support endless wars, special interests, and entitlements. Some people wouldn’t even write the check, knowing the government could never prove how many taxable items they bought with cash. Think of all the extra cans of food they could buy then.



Letter: Rechargeable Batteries and a Solar Charger

Hello HJL and JWR,

I was wondering if you could review and recommend the latest generation of rechargeable batteries available and a solar charger as well. I am leaning towards stocking up on rechargeable AA and AAA and the spacer packs that allow these sizes be used as C and D cell batteries. The vast array of options is overwhelming, and I am hoping someone with the expertise required can help. Thanks for all you do. Take care. – J.W.

HJL Replies: I have chosen to use a modular route so that I have the flexibility to charge whatever I need charged. Many of my electronics utilize proprietary batteries, but all can be charged from a vehicle (12-16VDC). I separate my solar setup from the charger so that I can attach whatever charger the item needs, to the solar module, which simply acts like a vehicle. I currently use Eneloop batteries by Sanyo. Most rechargeable batteries have a problem with internal leakage and will only hold a charge for a couple of months. Disposable batteries generally are easier to use because they can be used immediately after purchasing them. If you purchase them, you can throw them in a drawer and pull them out over the course of several years, and they are ready to go. Now with Eneloop batteries, rechargeables have the same capability. A normal rechargeable will lose about 75% of its stored charge in six months and come close to having no charge in a year. Eneloops will hold nearly 75% charge for at least three years. Because of this slow internal leakage rate, they come pre-charged in the package and are ready to go when you purchase them. Except for the higher purchase price, they have overcome practically all of the disadvantages of recheargables. Even the purchase price is tolerable if you look at the ownership cost spread out over the life of the instrument you are powering, which is reasonable since these batteries will take over 1000 charges.

Where you will find issues with your planned usage scheme is using AA and AAA batteries with adapters for C and D. Eneloop does not sell a C or D sized battery yet in the U.S., and their AA batteries are rated at 1900mAh. A decent NiMH rechargable “D” cell battery will be rated at close 10,000mAh. Eneloop has adapters to use AA in a D size, but you will loose 80% of the storage capacity in exchange for that long shelf life. (Sanyo does make them, they just don’t sell them in the U.S.)

Eneloop AAA 1800 cycle, Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack

Eneloop NEW 2000mAh Typical, 1900mAh Minimum, 1500 cycle, 4 Pack AA, Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries

Alternatively, you can use the higher power model, but you get fewer charges on it:

Eneloop XX 950mAh Typical / 900mAh Minimum, High Capacity, 4 Pack AAA Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries

Eneloop XX 2500mAh Typical / 2400 mAh Minimum, High Capacity, 4 Pack AA Ni-MH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries

You can also get a kit that contains adaptors from eneloop:

Eneloop SEC-CSPACER4PK C Size Spacers for use with AA battery cells

Eneloop SEC-DSPACER4PK D Size Spacers for use with AA battery cells

Eneloop adaptors are well made, but you can get adaptors to use up to 2 AA batteries to make a “D” cell that has close to 40% of the energy of an actual D cell. (65% of Sanyo’s “D” Eneloop batteries sold in Japan):

Adapter shell converts 2x AA to a D-size cell (set of two)

Chargers on the other hand are a little bit more difficult. One of the huge drawbacks to most portable NiMH chargers is that they must charge batteries in pairs. I have several items that only use one AAA battery or one AA battery, and it is a real problem keeping track of dead batteries versus charged ones. I also try to keep batteries paired for life since they do have a limited number of charges. Pairing a new battery with an old one can lead to issues with rechargeables. As a result, I usually mark the batteries on the end cap, identifying the item they power and the date they went in service. I have found a nice 15-minute quick charger that will also put a maintenance charge on the batteries, if you forget and leave them in the charger. It will charge one, two, three or four AA or AAA batteries. It is powered by a heavy duty 12V wall wart. The charger states it takes a power source from 11V to 16V, so you can also power it from your car battery:

Energizer AA 15-Minute Charger w/4 NiMh AA Batteries

I chose to go this route rather than a dedicated solar charger to give me more flexibility. I have several other items, like an Icom IC-T90A, that use 12-16V to charge as well. It then becomes a simple matter to use a generic solar charger with generic solar panels to charge all of my electronics. Currently I use a Tycon TP-SC24-10 12/24V 10A solar charge controller because it is what I had on hand. You will need a charge controller capable of at least 10A at 12V because that Energizer charger may be small, but it can really pull the juice when it’s in 15-minute charge mode.

With a setup like this, you can be semi-portable by using small solar panels. I use two in parallel that I picked up at a garage sale. They measure 18” x 18”. As an alternative, you can be completely portable by using a flexible roll-up solar panel.

As always, please check with our advertisers to see if they carry these or similar products before using the Amazon links.



Letter: Shotgun Security

Dear Sir:

I am writing to seek your advise and that of your readers. I live in a metropolitan area, in a nice “safe” suburb where “nothing ever happens”. I have recently become more active in preparing for crisis situations. I have also reevaluated my home security needs. I want to have immediate access to my handgun at night. At this point, if we had an intruder, I would have to get into my closet, open my safe, get my handgun and then try to successfully confront a threat. I have several small children, so leaving a loaded firearm in the nightstand is not an option. I believe that a Gunvault product may be my best bet for a handgun. Although it is not “instant” access, the time needed to enter the code is very short.

My question concerns shotguns. I would like to have instant access to my shotgun, but have the same speed and safety concerns. The gun safe is too slow, and the idea of having a loaded shotgun along the side of the bed just won’t work either. I would like to mount it to the wall with a safety mount that covers the trigger. The only product I can find that would appear to fit the bill is called the Shotlock Solo Vault. I have never seen this product, or this type of product, evaluated or discussed on Survivalblog. Do any of your readers have experience with this product? I would appreciate any evaluations, thoughts, or recommendations that you could make that would help me find a product that can meet my needs. – M.C.

HJL Replies: I refuse to give in to political correctness on this issue. Gun safes, vaults and locks are for keeping the weapons that you are not using safe when you are not around. They are not for “working” weapons. Working weapons should be loaded and ready to go at all times, whether it is a shotgun leaned in a corner behind the front door or a pistol under your pillow, or anything in between. The only effective way of making a working weapon safe is to make sure that all who come into contact with it are educated and trained. That may mean that you have to be careful about who is in your house. It may also mean that, at times, you have no working weapon available. Small children are also capable of being trained. I have memories, from when I was only four or five years old, of working weapons in our household. I also trained my children. Before they could handle a weapon safely, they knew of the danger and had their curiosity satisfied by spending time with me and the weapon in use. Your weapon may be scary to your young child, but they can learn to respect it and stear clear of it until they are trained to become comfortable properly using one themselves. Any product that attempts to render a working weapon safe merely gives you a false sense of security and hinders your ability to access that weapon when you need it. As an EMT, I will attest to the reluctance of the mind to function well when you have been rudely awakened at 3:00AM. You owe it to yourself to simplify what you have to think about in a time of severe stress. I want ALL of my thinking to be toward the shoot/no shoot situation rather than fumbling with a combination that I may or may not remember under stress thus shrinking the time available to deal with the shoot/no shoot decision. Making the decision to have a working weapon for self defense is making a decision to change your lifestyle. I don’t believe you can merely purchase a product that will allow you to live life as you did before you made the decision and expect to have the safety and security of a working weapon. As much as I hate to say this, you should also check with your local laws. They may attempt to regulate what you do in the confines of your own home and only you can make the decision to allow them to do that or not.