Odds ‘n Sods:

Not bad for a prototype: Watch a Fully Automatic Electromagnetic Pulse Rifle Demolish a Laptop – RBS

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S.C. sent these two articles in with the statement: “I realize that there are many factors that affect both situations. However, I think that these two articles give a good idea as to the twisted views of our country. I feel ashamed to live in a country who will not allow a seven year old boy, who is fighting for his life, the medication that he needs. While, on the same day, the attorney general pushes for a drug to be widely distributed to assist people who have overdosed on illegal drugs. This is a sad state of affairs.”

Drug company refuses to give lifesaving medication to 7-year-old boy

Heroin overdoses pose ‘urgent public health crisis,’ US attorney general says

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Two Americans Convicted of Economic Espionage for China – B.R.

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I’m not sure about the validity of this, and it might just be a self-fulfilling prophecy, but… Think the ammo market is about to get better? Think again.

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An interesting video on a very small number: 0.00672%: Why Concealed Carry Permit Holders Will Want to Hear About Such a Small Number From a Former Navy SEAL

Notes from HJL:

Today, Safecastle (A SurvivalBlog advertiser) is starting their first Mountain House Sale of the year. This sale will only run until the 15th, so visit their site soon!

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Mike Williamson (SurvivalBlog’s Editor At Large) sent in a link to an interesting book I am currently listening to: Army Life in a Black Regiment. It’s about some of the adventures of the First South Carolina Volunteers, the first slave regiment mustered into the service of the United States during the late civil war. It makes for more interesting commuting.

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Today, we present two guest articles along with our usual reviews from Pat Cascio.

In Staying Mobile in a Collapse Situation, M.C. walks us through his plans for maintaining mobility as a priority. Second, D.D. gives us some history and recipes for making pemmican. This is something I have always wanted to try, but just have never gotten around to. Maybe today is the day.

Guest Article: Staying Mobile in a Collapse Situation, by M.C.

Staying Mobile in a Collapse Situation by Matt Conner

I have seen countless disaster movies set 30+ years after the collapse of society where, somehow, people still have gasoline and diesel fuel to run their vehicles. I am a professional diesel mechanic, operating two vehicles retrofitted from their original gasoline engines to run on older mechanical diesel engines. I feel I could stay mobile longer because I would not be dependent on service stations to provide me fuel, and I could make my own. I would like to share my methods here with fellow like-minded readers. The concept I will be detailing is burning used engine oil for fuel in older mechanical diesel engines. The first of the two engines I run is a 1991.5 Cummins 6bta, commonly referred to as the “12 valve”, installed in a 1998 Ford F150. This engine was commonly found in the 1988-1996 Dodge ¾ and one ton trucks but is very popular to swap into other vehicles. The engine has many benefits and the only negative aspect I have found so far is that it is loud. The key feature here is it will run on used oil. The second engine is a Mercedes Benz OM617– the 5 cylinder diesel found in various cars from the mid-1970s to late ’80s. This engine has been installed in my girlfriend’s 1996 Jeep Cherokee. Both the OM617 and Cummins are 100% EMP-proof, which means it will run without a battery and no alternator and will also run on used oil.

Under normal operation (not the end of the world), I collect used engine oil and fuel from changed filters off Peterbilt trucks I service (roughly 120 trucks). I filter and blend this used oil with a setup at my house that I will detail later. However, in a SHTF scenario, the theory would be collecting the engine oil and automatic transmission fluid or even power steering fluid from abandoned vehicles, which will have run out of fuel on the road, to make a custom blend of usable emergency fuel for your diesel.

W85 blend is what oil burners call a blend of 85% WMO (waste motor oil) and 15% RUG (regular unleaded gasoline). Since the viscosity of oil is higher than diesel fuel, the gasoline is used to lower it to something similar to diesel by thinning it out. Now in our SHTF scenario, we would shoot for making w85 in 5-gallon batches; we would collect all the crank case oil and ATF and power steering fluid (do not use brake fluid) from a derelict vehicle, which should yield about five to six quarts engine oil and about six to eight quarts of ATF and power steering fluid. Then we would collect the remaining gasoline from the fuel tank, because most vehicles still have a considerable amount of fuel in the tank even after they “run out”. This would be done simply by puncturing the fuel tank with a screwdriver or ice pick and a hammer. If you could get ¾ gallons of RUG that would cover your needed 15%, and the rest would be your WMO.

Water separation and filtration is the key. My fuel filtration set up is gravity fed and constructed of almost entirely “junk”. It consists of two 55-gallon drums, some plumbing pipe, some filter heads, and spin-on CIMTEK filters. Search “up-flow processor WMO” to see detailed info on how they work.

The basic concept is described here. The first drum is the settling tank. The 55-gallon drum has a 2-inch opening and a ¾-inch opening. The 2-inch bung has a 4-inch pipe nipple threaded into it, and inside the pipe nipple there is a 2-inch diameter exhaust pipe section welded to it that extends down into the barrel close to the bottom. The top of the pipe nipple has a smaller 16-gallon drum with a 2-inch bung in its center, threaded onto it with the top of it cut off to act as a funnel. On the opposite side, at the ¾ bung, is a 90-degree street elbow that has two filter heads with CIMTEK water separator filters at 15 and 5 microns. The concept is as follows. The WMO/RUG mix is poured into the funnel at the top of the barrel; the weight of the oil forces it down the down tube to the bottom of the barrel where any large solids and water will settle. Then once the barrel is full, the settled oil will be forced out the top through the ¾ bung, through the filters, and out as finished product. On my set-up I have it go into another 55-gallon drum, used as a storage tank that has a 12 volt pump that runs on a battery and pumps the product through a final third filter, but this is not necessary. A smaller version of this filter concept could be constructed for portability and maybe even mounted in the truck, but the basic concept is the same.

The proper vehicle to run this fuel would be one with a mechanically-injected older diesel engine, pre-1997 would be safest. All older IDI Fords, 6.9 l and pre-powerstroke 7.3 l engines do well on it.

The pre- common rail Cummins engines in Dodges, like I run, love it; all your Mercedes 300 series cars and many others run well on it as well. One important thing is to stock up on fuel filters for your vehicle. This will save you hassle later down the road, as trying to go to Auto Zone in the end times might not be a good idea.

I have been running this blended fuel for several years in my Cummins-powered Ford F150 with no issues, and the Mercedes-powered Jeep has run for several months now as well. Still, as always, do your research, and know what you are doing before you start. I hope this will inspire others to look into making their own emergency fuel and having the survival advantage when it counts.

Guest Article: Pemmican, by D.D.

Food seems to be a most popular subject for Prepper’s and Survivalist’s, and why shouldn’t it be? We all live to eat and eat to live. In an effort to expand my knowledge of shelf-stable food, I started thinking about the way indigenous peoples in different areas of the world survive, or survived, without refrigeration, dehydrators, or freezers. What I found was very interesting and helpful in my shoring up of shelf-stable foods for my family’s security in a SHTF situation. There is one thing, more than the rest, that I really have enjoyed researching and implementing. Of all the different foodstuffs I came across, my favorite was the traditional Native American food known as pemmican. Now I have lived on the boarder of a small well-developed reservation for quite some time. Being out here in the Redoubt area one meets quite a few self-sustaining individuals on a regular basis, so in the past I had heard of pemmican but never put any serious thought into it until recently. Pemmican is a very easy to make, highly shelf-stable, tasty, and a highly nutritious food source, if made correctly. It is also nice to take camping/hiking, road-tripping, and tour bicycling, due to its low weight and caloric density.

Wikipedia describes pemmican as follows: “Pemmican is a concentrated mixture of fat and protein used as a nutritious food. The word comes from the Cree word pimîhkân, which itself is derived from the word pimî, “fat, grease”. It was invented by the native peoples of North America. It was widely adopted as a high-energy food by Europeans involved in the fur trade and later by Arctic and Antarctic explorers, such as Robert Falcon Scott and Roald Amundsen.

The specific ingredients used were usually whatever was available; the meat was often bison, moose, elk, or deer. Fruits such as cranberries and saskatoon berries were sometimes added. Cherries, currants, chokeberries and blueberries were also used, but those are almost exclusively used in ceremonial and wedding pemmican.

Traditionally, pemmican was prepared from the lean meat of large game, such as buffalo, elk, or deer. The meat was cut in thin slices and dried over a slow fire, or in the hot sun, until it was hard and brittle. About five pounds of meat are required to make one pound of dried meat suitable for pemmican. Then it was pounded into very small pieces, almost powder-like in consistency, using stones. The pounded meat was mixed with melted fat in an approximate 1:1 ratio. In some cases, dried fruits such as saskatoon berries, cranberries, blueberries, or choke cherries were pounded into powder and then added to the meat/fat mixture. The resulting mixture was then packed into rawhide pouches for storage.

A bag of buffalo pemmican weighing about 90 pounds was called a Taureau by the Métis of Red River. It generally took the meat of one buffalo to fill a Taureau.

I have found pemmican to be a good food source for myself. I personally did a 24-hour trial run of eating nothing but pemmican, and I personally had no ill side effects. I have included a few of the recipes I used and had great success with.

Here are some tips for you to improve your ability to use pemmican recipes properly and make good pemmican:

  • Talk to your local butcher to acquire the suet. A local co-op butcher might have the healthiest choices, in terms of organic meats. You may be able to acquire the fat for free in certain places.
  • When rendering (melting) the fat, be careful not to burn it or make it smoke.
  • The warmer the climate you are going to be using the pemmican in, the less fat you need in it.
  • This is also true for the time of year. Use less fat for the summer time and more for winter.
  • Label what you make, especially if you try different recipes.

God Bless all of you in your endeavors.

Ingredients:

  • 4 cups lean meat (deer, beef, caribou, or moose)
  • 3 cups dried fruit
  • 2 cups rendered fat
  • Unsalted nuts and about one shot of honey

Instructions:

  1. Meat should be as lean as possible and double ground from your butcher, if you do not have your own meat grinder. Spread it out very thin on a cookie sheet and dry at 180 degrees Fahrenheit for at least eight hours or until sinewy and crispy. Pound the meat into a nearly powder consistency using a blender or other tool.
  2. Grind the dried fruit, but leave a little bit lumpy for fun texture.
  3. Heat rendered fat on stove at medium until liquid.
  4. Add liquid fat to dried meat and dried fruit, and mix in nuts and honey.
  5. Mix everything by hand. Let cool and store.

Can keep and be consumed for several years.

Ingredients

  • 2 lbs. of lean buffalo, elk, or beef loin.
  • 1 1/2 lbs. of dried currant berries.
  • Molasses to sweeten and for binding.

Directions

  1. Cut meat into thin slices about 1/16 – 1/8 thick. Allow to dry for two to four days, until thoroughly dry. Pulverize dried meat to fine, almost powdery, flakes.
  2. Add dried currant berries and mix well.
  3. Add molasses to sweeten and bind mixture.
  4. Mix well and knead into a big dough-like ball.
  5. Pull chunks of big ball and roll into smaller half dollar-sized balls, then flatten them. Let sit for two days to dry.

Pat’s Product Review: Maxxeon Hunter’s Floodlight

Some months ago, I tested and reviewed the portable WorkStar 2000 floodlight from Maxxeon for SurvivalBlog readers, and it was a huge hit. I heard from a number of readers about how pleased they were with the product. Today, we’re looking at the new and improved Hunter’s http://www.maxxeon.com/led_hunters_worklight_workstar_2030.html floodlight from Maxxeon. Some SurvivalBlog readers have requested that I list the country of origin– where the products are manufactured– in all of my articles. Maxxeon products are made in China. Like it or not, we now live in a global economy, and in order for many companies to compete or even introduce a new product at an affordable price point, they are having their products manufactured in other countries.

The new Workstar 2030 Hunter’s Floodlight from Maxxeon has all the same tough features of the original WorksStar 2000, with some improvements, to make it even better. Maxxeon listened to suggestions from folks who purchase their products and went to work to improve an already excellent product. I personally know this to be a fact, because I suggested some improvements to one of their products, and they jumped right on it. The Hunter’s 2030 model still has a high 270 Out The Front lumens and on low, 90 Out The Front lumens. It also has the easy-to-adjust brightness level, at the touch of a button. The entire unit can be fully recharged in about three hours and has it’s own charging unit.

The unit can run on high for about two hours and on low for about eight hours. The Fresnel-like lens creates a huge floodlight beam. It can light up my entire huge front yard at night, and it has all the same uses that the original 2000 WorkStar had, with some new additions and changes that make it more suitable for hunters.

First of all, the unit is covered in REALTREE Camo that is topped with a rubberized soft-touch grip coating, making for a secure grip in all weather conditions. I’ve had to track game after the sun went down. As any hunter can tell you, you need a good, bright light. The 2030 gives you a real advantage in this area. There is an unbreakable LED “bulb” that never needs replacing, too. Ever drop your flashlight at night and the bulb breaks? Yeah, me too. With the 2030 Hunter’s model, you don’t have to worry about the bulb breaking.

You can also carry the 2030 model on your belt, with the detachable belt clip. That’s handy! Also, Maxxeon has added indents to the 180-degree tilting action of the neck, so the light stays where you shine or aim it. No more having to adjust where the light is aimed; it’s super cool! If you’ve ever had to dress-out game in the dark or under low-light conditions, you’ll certainly appreciate the titling action of the neck on the 2030 Hunter’s model. In the dark, I once had to search for a large buck that I had taken. When I found it, I then had to dress it out, in the dark. It was a total pain to dress out the deer while trying to hold my small flashlight in one hand and dress-out the buck with my knife in the other hand. Oh, how I wish I had owned the Maxxeon 2030 Hunter’s model back then.

The rubberized coating is a nice touch that keeps your hand from getting cold holding the light, which happens with aluminum flashlight barrels. Additionally, the REALTREE camo is just a nice touch for hunters. The 2030 is very attractive.

If you work on cars all the time, you know how hard it is to get the light just where you need it. I have no problems with the original WorkStar 2000, but the new and improved 2030 Hunter’s model is just a little bit better in my humble opinion. So, if you haven’t already purchased the WorkStar 2000, then take a close look at the 2030 Hunter’s model. It might be just what you’re looking for, whether for working on cars, tracking lost game at night, or lighting up your yard at night when something goes “bump”. Full-retail on the new and improved 2030 model is $155.00. It’s a light that will serve all your needs.

SurvivalBlog isn’t going to review products that aren’t up to our highest expectations, so don’t look for those reviews on our website. However, from time-to-time, we will review a product that doesn’t quite measure up to our high standards, and we’ll alert our readers that they might just be wasting their money on that product. Sometimes products arrive in our hands that are a good idea, however, it is poorly executed when the final product is manufactured. I’ve worked with some companies lately to help them improve on their products BEFORE bringing them out on the market. I enjoy when a company listens to an outsider, instead of having the NIH (Not Invented Here) attitude, and not interested in hearing from an outsider on how one of their products might be improved. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

Pat’s Product Review – Benchamde’s Rift, Automatic Folder

Today, we’re looking at the Rift, automatic folder from Benchmade knives. The Rift is proudly made in the United States of America and is from the black box line– a working line of knives for professionals. I remember when I first started writing about knives. I was a freelance field editor for Knives Illustrated magazine. I contacted Les d’Asis at Benchmade and requested a sample to do an article on. This was more than 22 years ago, and Benchmade has continued to keep me supplied with samples for articles.

Benchmade knives are always in demand. A good number of our military personnel use Benchmade knives, as well as many folks in law enforcement. Benchmade Knife Company is a leading manufacturer of automatic folding knives. Even though Benchmade has been producing automatic folders for a number of years right here in Oregon, there are large numbers of law enforcement officers who do not know they are legal to own in Oregon.

The Benchmade Rift model number 9555S is a reversed Tanto blade for toughness. It also has a large belly blade for utility cutting, and its textured G10 handle scales help you get a firm grip in any situation. There is also a manual safety on top of the handle scales, for locking the blade in the open or the closed position. The blade is manufactured out of 154 CM stainless steel with a Rockwell hardness of 58-61. The knife can be carried in the pocket with the reversible pocket clip for a tip up carry only.

The blade length is ideal at 3.67 inches; the blade thicknesses is 0.114 inches. Its handle thickness is 0.556 inches. What is unique about the Rift is that it has the Axis locking system, which releases the blade with either hand by simply sliding the axis pivot point to the rear. Overall, the length of the knife is a 8.27 inches; closed its length is 4.60 inches.

The model 9555, Rift, can be had in several different versions. You can get it either satin finished blade or a black coated blade with a plain blade or partial serrations and a blade. The sample I received is the satin finished blade with partial serrations, which are very handy when cutting wet rope, rubber, or cardboard and many other tough materials.

The textured G10 handle scales are black, and the texturing is just in the right places on both sides of the handle to assure you a firm and secure grip in all kinds of weather conditions. At the top of the handle scales, there are friction grooves for proper thumb placement in the fencing grip. Additionally, on the bottom of the handle there are also friction grooves, once again, for a sure grip in any position that you hold the knife. G10 is one of toughest materials you can use for handle scales on a knife or handgun grips.

During my testing of the Rift, I used it for chores around the house, including chores in the kitchen as well as outdoors on my small homestead. The blade came shaving sharp out-of-the-box, which is typical of all Benchmade knives. During my testing, over a period of several weeks, I did not have to touch up the blade one time. It held the edge.

For the past several years, I’ve carried an older model Benchmade folder that has long been discontinued, yet is one of my favorite folders. However, the new Rift is making headway and fast becoming a favorite. It may replace my old discontinued model that I’ve carried for so many years.

The Rift is one of those knives that you will have a hard time putting down, once you pick it up. It just feels like a natural extension of your hand, no matter which position you hold the knife in– fencing, reverse, hammer, et cetera. The Rift just feels great in the hand. I also like the fact that the Axis locking mechanism is self-adjusting. As the blade/handle wear over the years, the Axis will keep the blade firmly locked when opened, without any wiggle.

I’ve toured the Benchmade plant several times over the years, and I’m always amazed at the growth they have experienced and how much the product line has expanded. To be sure, Benchmade, during my last tour, was working two shifts, and they would work three shifts if they could find enough qualified people. Benchmade takes pride in hiring the best of the best. Also, it is of interest that Benchmade doesn’t have many knives in-stock. They go out the door just as fast as they can produce them, which says a lot. Another reason why Benchmade knives are always in short-supply is that we keep buying them as fast as they are made.

Now, for those who don’t live in areas where automatic folding knives are legal, Benchmade also produces a manual opening version of the Rift, and it opens pretty fast with the thumb stud. The Rift 9555S sample I tested retails for $250. Remember, you are getting a near custom, if not custom knife from Benchmade.

I really like the Rift, and if you are looking for a new EDC (Every Day Carry) folder, take a close look at the Rift. Shortly before this article was done, I somehow lost or misplaced my Rift sample. So, when funds permit, I’m going to get another one, and it will more than likely replace my well-worn and abused older Benchmade folder that I’ve been carrying in my right front pocket for about six years. That says a lot, in my book. I test a lot of knives, but for my everyday carry folder, I’ve stuck to my older Benchmade folder, which may just get replaced…soon! – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio

Recipe of the Week: Posole, by SRG

  • 7 chicken breasts, diced into bite-sized pieces
  • 1 whole garlic, cloves separated & crushed
  • 1 teaspoon oregano, crushed
  • 4 teaspoon cumin, ground
  • 1 teaspoon sage, crushed
  • 2 onions, either sweet and/or purple, finely chopped (Remember, purple onions are stronger flavored.)
  • 2 bell peppers, finely chopped (For added color, use bell peppers of different colors.)
  • 2 bunches fresh cilantro, VERY well washed and finely chopped
  • 6 large cans posole or hominy, drained & washed
  • 2 small cans niblet corn, drained & washed
  • 1 jar chunky salsa, mild or medium (Old El Paso brand is a good choice.)
  • 2 large cans (1 quart size) nonfat chicken broth, plus whatever extra small cans as necessary to bring the liquid level up to cover the other ingredients
  • Olive Oil

Fry the chicken in olive oil. When done, add the garlic, oregano, cumin, and sage, and cook for 30 seconds to a minute. Add the vegetables, cooking until the onions start to become wilted, then add the cilantro.

Add the posole and corn, then add chicken broth as necessary.

Serve with sides of sour cream, salsa, fresh chopped cilantro, grated cheese, and wedged limes.

As a side, serve either with tortillas or good, crusty sourdough or rye bread.

Chef’s Note: This version of Posole is known as “Festival Posole” or “Harvest Posole,” in that it has all kinds of extra goodies in it that would be added at the beginning of the harvest. Basic Posole is often just the hominy, some kind of meat (on the Navajo Reservation, where this particular dish originated, it would likely be ground or cubed lamb or mutton), maybe an onion and a little bell pepper, some oil or lard for frying, and some water.

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it via e-mail. Thanks!

Letter: Staying Put in a Chicago Apartment?

Hello,

I love the website but having difficulties. I live in an urban environment, in a good town but near a rough section of Chicago…which causes crime to seep into our borders (theft a huge problem). I live in an apartment, with limited storage space….limited space in general. So much seems geared to those who live in a bit more suburban or rural communities. I want to be prepared but overwhelmed is an understatement, as well as feeling stymied by many factors outside of my control, i.e. space and lack of land. I have looked through the archives, perhaps not carefully enough, so forgive me for the following question: Are there any resources you can recommend for someone urban like myself?

JWR Replies: It is fine to plan to stay in the city for a few days during a discrete event wherein the power grid stays up, or when it only goes down briefly. However, attempting to hunker down in an apartment in a major metropolitan region during a grid-down collapse would be foolish. That has already been described at length in the blog, as far back as 2007. See: https://survivalblog.com/letter-re-hunkering-down-in-an/

Your best bet is to have a well-stocked retreat that is well-removed from urban areas, and plan to get there quickly, ahead of the inevitable flood of refugees. My novel “Patriots” was about a group of Chicagoans who planned to do just that.

Some techniques for storing supplies in an apartment have been discussed in the SurvivalBlog on several occasions. See, for example:

https://survivalblog.com/teotwawki-in-a-two-bedroom-apartment-at-the-edge-of-town-by-melanie-c/
https://survivalblog.com/the-po-mans-teotwawki-guide-by-rb/
https://survivalblog.com/when-push-comes-to-shotgun-survival-in-the-suburbs-by-michael-k/
https://survivalblog.com/surreptitious-suburban-surviva/
https://survivalblog.com/escape-from-fill-in-your-city/

The bottom line: Do the best you can with your resources. Team up with like-minded friends and relatives. Always have a Plan B.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Video: For those that love the Mosin rifle: The winter war 1939 – F.S.

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Every where you turn, somebody wants to know what you’re doing. The NSA, Corporations and now:Warrantless Spying Is Becoming The Status Quo At Local Police Department

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In a sad statement on the current morals of people: Redwood park closes road to deter burl poachers

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Prepping is big business and CWalton on survivor.com has posted an article that shows an excellent example of how you should do your homework before participating or purchasing from any company dealing with survival products.

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Exposing the “Living Document” Lie

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Remember the classic statement attributed to General Merritt Edson, U.S. Marine Corps: ‘One hundred rounds do not constitute fire power. One hit constitutes fire power.’” – Jeff Cooper’s Commentaries, Vol. 5, No. 4 March, 1997

Notes from HJL:

March 9th is the birthday of Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin, the first man to ever travel in space. (Born 9 March 1934, died 27 March 1968 in the crash of a MiG-15-UTI fighter.)

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3 Ways to Make Your Portfolio Inflation-Proof

JWR’s tangible investing strategy: Want to know an asset class that’s almost a surefire winner for the next five years? It’s razor blades. See the full article.

Also: Guns, Ammo And Other Great Ways To Fight Inflation. – Frost

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Today we present another entry for Round 51 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand,
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589.
  3. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  4. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P .),
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  6. A full set of all 26 books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  7. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  8. EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles, is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  9. Autrey’s Armory – specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts, and accessories is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  10. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  12. Organized Prepperis providing a $500 gift certificate.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208.

Round 51 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

How To Prepare Yourself For Cold Weather, by Prepared in Maine

I’ve been hearing a lot from friends and family in southern latitudes who are dealing with the cold. My lifetime of experience, living and working outdoors in northern Maine, has taught me that cold weather gear need not be expensive or complicated. Living in a cold climate does require some thought and preparation, but with a bit of both you can equip yourself and your beloved ones for cold weather so that you can not only survive but work and be comfortable. I don’t represent or have any interest in any of the companies listed. I cite brand names only to help readers identify products (or similar substitutes) to add to their shopping lists for acquiring what is needed to prepare for cold weather.

I ask for your patience please as I begin with a few rules first. For those accustomed to cold climates, these should be well-known, but not everyone may be as familiar:

  1. Water next to your skin is your enemy. If you’re working outside doing more than driving/riding (chopping and hauling wood, doing farm chores, or moving through timber), then you’re sweating. Water next to your skin is your enemy. Cold and wet is at best uncomfortable for short period and more than likely dangerous for long periods in cold weather.
  2. Cotton clothing is dangerous in cold weather. Cotton holds water. If you sweat or will be exposed to precipitation (slush, snow, sleet) or moisture already on the ground in the cold, then your fabrics of choice for all layers should be either synthetic fabric, silk, or wool. For outer layers, I prefer wool since it doesn’t readily burn in contact with flame, and it doesn’t melt when touched by hot ash. As with any rule, there is an exception and that is oil-waxed cotton outer layer. High quality oil-waxed cotton gear (e.g., Filson’s) can be good, but for the price of these garments, even used, you can get two woolen ones. Cotton long johns, dungarees, and cotton flannel shirts are inexpensive, comfortable, and look great, but they don’t keep you warm when working in cold weather.
  3. Down insulation should only be used for dry environments. Down keeps you warm by being fluffy. Wet down is not fluffy, and you will be cold. Synthetic fill is a great substitute, plus it is often cheaper and doesn’t have the water problem. Yes, it is a bit heavier, but weight is not your primary concern when keeping warm.

With those three rules in mind, I offer the following suggestions, based on my experience.

Feet:

Woolen socks are a no-brainer. One pair under good fitting boots. I know some swear by two pairs at a time, but I’d rather have one pair on and another in my pocket with my boots fitting as they should. Boots should be chosen based on how wet it will be. Wear insulated rubber boots for deep water (like Servus); wear Bean’s or Sorel type insulated boots for colder and less wet conditions. Don’t skimp on boots. Good boots have removable liners that you can swap out when they become wet and have liners commonly available. Good boots can be worn for hours without foot pain and allow you to work on slippery surfaces. Good boots will last you for years, though liners should be replaced as needed. Waterproofing of leather can be accomplished with a coating of Sno-seal. I’ve used chemical warmers in my boots and had mixed results. They can keep your feet warm, but if they don’t stick well they will ball up and become a nuisance. If you’re just sitting around, the warmers can be great. The most important factor for boots is to ensure they are not frozen when you put them on. Bring them indoors the night before or warm them with a hairdryer or microwaved potato before putting them on.

Legs and Undergarments:

The clothing choice for your legs is based on whether you’ll be working or sitting for long periods. Synthetic or silk long johns under heavy woolen trousers that have been treated to repel water (keeps them clean longer too!) are my go-to cold weather wear for legs. Plain or waxed cotton chaps over this layer can be used for dirty conditions, such as chainsaw work. Leg gaiters (nylon with an elastic top and bottom and a loop for the heel) can be useful for deep or drifted snow, but my wool pants are often on the outside of my boots making these unnecessary. I’ve read about thin woolen undergarments, but these are beyond my budget. Synthetic works well and is easy to clean.

Torso:

In windy conditions, wool is better than synthetic fleece. Windstopper fleece is great, but it doesn’t breathe as well as regular fleece or wool. Garments with (Al) Gore-Tex is very expensive and only really helpful if it is raining and you’re not working. Velcro is convenient, but it can fail. Look for garments with heavy zippers (YKK) or buttons and pockets that zip closed. Woolen garments can be treated using wash-in water repellent that doesn’t prevent breath-ability. Synthetic insulation should be used in any winter coat. Even better yet, wear a woolen coat over a fleece; giving you two layers rather than one allows you to unbutton or unzip to not get too hot. With a synthetic or silk underlayer with a synthetic mid-layer under a fleece covered by a woolen overcoat, I am good to go.

Hands:

Mittens are warmer than gloves, but you can’t do as much in mittens. If you have to take them off to accomplish your task, they are not effective. Leather is great but must be treated to be waterproof. As above, Sno-seal is wonderful at treating leather for winter waterproofing. A thin coating on your gloves in the fall and then laid in a black plastic bag in the sun will do the trick; a recoating may be needed. Down insulated gloves are silly. Working hands get wet and are often compressing the down, which make down less effective. You can spend a lot of money on cool ski gloves that are warm, but they won’t last like good work gloves that are insulated. The best I’ve found are Kinco 1927KW gloves. They’re warm, fit well, wear long, and are inexpensive. You can get a couple of pairs of these for the cost of a new pair of ski gloves. Even in harsh conditions, Kinco gloves will last a year (often more) and keep you warm even when you duct tape the holes you’ll eventually wear through your favorite pair. Once you’ve worn a pair so much they’re mostly duct tape fingers, toss them in your truck repair kit and you’ll be set for a winter repair. As above, I’ve had mixed results with chemical hand warmers. There are times when these are useful– when you’re not working hard. Otherwise, I rarely find that I need them.

Neck & Face:

A light fleece or wool scarf provides a lot of flexibility for warmth. A cotton keffiyeh may be fine in summer, but it is not for winter. I don’t use neck gaiters, but others swear by them. I’ve tried neoprene face masks, and found them to be too wet for my liking. Water on skin is your enemy in cold weather. I prefer to have water evaporated away– neoprene traps it. In very bright or blowing snow conditions, goggles may be needed. Ski or snowmobile goggles can be inexpensive if second hand; just be sure they are not too scratched. These can fit over glasses and will keep your face surprisingly warm and stop bright sun headaches as well as keeping eyes safe.

Head:

A woolen hat can’t be beaten for all-around warmth. It breathes and stays warm when wet. In extreme cold, a StormyKromer style hat is hard to beat for warmth. Look for a good fit with fold down flaps for yoou ears. These help to moderate how warm you are. If you get warm from working, it is quick and easy to remove to dump heat from your upper neck and head. Watch-style hats are also great (especially for car kits), but they don’t offer much flexibility. I don’t like hoods integrated into my coat, because these often limit visibility or the ability to hear. For me, these are potential safety concerns.

Skin:

Skin exposed to cold can become dry. Often bitter cold is accompanied by robin-egg blue sky days with bright reflected sun. In such conditions, exposed skin can rapidly sun and/or wind burn. I’ve found that Dermatone ointment is great for slathering on exposed skin. In a pinch Vaseline will do to prevent wind burn, but it does nothing for sunburn. Zinc oxide creams can be effective but are messy and difficult to clean out of clothes.

Winter Kit for Truck or Car:

Assuming that you’ll be wearing your coat and boots, you should have an extra midlayer (like a 200-weight fleece) and spare pair of boot liners in your auto kit. Added to a wool hat and a pair of gloves for each person, a wool blanket will likely complete what you’ll need for emergency clothing. I also keep leg gaiters in my auto kit, since I don’t always wear my wool pants. SurvivalBlog has excellent lists of GHBs for the automobile. (I will refer readers to those found in the archive rather than repeat the contents.)

These same principles apply to survival in winter conditions after the balloon goes up, and I would offer even more so then. I hope the information in this list helps SurvivalBlog readers and their families stay safe and warm this winter and in coming years.

Letter Re: Animal-Grade Grains and Bugs

Hello Hugh.

With regard to your comment about animal-grade grains and bugs, I had the same problem several years ago and I have found a very effective solution. In fact, before I found a solution the weevils were so bad that when I was near the bags of grain I could hear them rattling around in there and they quickly spread everywhere. I store many bags of corn, chicken scratch, and barley without so much as a single bug now. The solution is diatomaceous earth. Bugs hate it. In fact weevils and moths simply cannot live with it. Fleas and mites are also killed by it, and it gets rid of some internal pesticides when ingested. When I stack my bags of grain, I use a powder-puffer (I bought at Amazon.com) to puff diatomaceous earth on the bags between each layer. I wear a protective mask while I do this, because inhaling diatomaceous earth isn’t recommended. I also puff some of it in with my storage of rice and human-grade grains, which I previously also had problems with bugs. No more bugs. – J.P.

Hugh Replies: Diatomaceous earth is one of those things that no gardener or prepper should be without. It has so many uses, we may have to write an article just on it in the future. Another item I have been experimenting with is recovering grain that has been infected with bugs. Most bugs really don’t harm humans that consume them. It’s more of a cosmetic issue with the food with possible long-term storage issues. Most of our grain is vacuum packed and the bugs cannot survive in that environment. What is needed is an easy way to clean the grain. One of my experiments is using a section of PVC pipe to drop the grain through with a shop vacuum attached to the top. If the vacuum level is set right, you can safely vacuum dust and bugs out of the grain while the grain itself falls to the bottom into a bucket. The hope is that even if the grain is infected with bugs (larva), vacuum packing will kill them or prevent them from maturing, and the vacuum will clean them out, making the grain usable. My major concern is if the integrity of the grain berry is compromised, how will that affect the long-term storage of that grain.