Odds ‘n Sods:

Researchers’ Google Glass Spyware Sees What You See. – T.Y.

o o o

Video: Bad education: School workbook redefines Second Amendment. – T.J.

o o o

Continuing the conversation of the militarization of the police, SurvivalBlog received two links:

From B.B. – An article on the militarization of the police in America by John Silveira, and from S.M. the uncensored video of the the APD shooting of an Albuquerque homeless man. WARNING: This video is graphic. After viewing the video, I must describe what I felt as outrage. I can only conclude that if you are mentally ill and you have a run-in with some members of this police department, you are as good as dead. This police chief needs to be investigated as well as the cops who participated.

o o o

Colorado joins 18 other states in introducing legislation that forces vaccination of children. My issue with it isn’t so much that I distrust the vaccines (although I do distrust some) but that I don’t want the government removing my choice as a parent. – H.L.

o o o

States move to Ban Drone Assisted Hunting

“The issue unites two groups, which are typically at odds. Animal rights activists believe drone-assisted hunting is cruel, while many hunters’ groups believe it is cheating.”

A SurvivalBlog reader adds: “Actually, it unites THREE groups. The third group being Americans who don’t want to be hunted by drones.”





Notes from HJL:

Today we present another entry for Round 51 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 Gift Certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A gift certificate worth $1,000, courtesy of Spec Ops Brand,
  2. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training. Together, these have a retail value of $589.
  3. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100 foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  4. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P .),
  5. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  6. A full set of all 26 books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  7. Two cases of Meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  8. EP Lowers, makers of 80% complete fiber composite polymer lowers for the AR-15 rifles, is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  9. Autrey’s Armory – specialists in AR-15, M4s, parts, and accessories is donating a $250 gift certificate,
  10. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  11. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate, and
  12. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances, and
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208.
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 51 ends on March 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



Tracking the Plume: Dodging the Toxic Cloud When Deciding to Bug-in or Bug-out, by B.H.

Someone just told you about the Boston Marathon bombing. You are combing the interwebs looking for more details and view several videos of explosions and subsequent swirling brownish smoke. What was in that smoke? Did anyone die from just that smoke? Was it cancerous? Was it filled with botulism? Mustard gas? Alpha particles from a dirty bomb?

While people either ran away from the explosion, sought cover, or were moving toward the explosion to help victims, most people probably did not worry about what was in that smoke. I, on the other hand, was primarily concerned about the smoke wondering if there were any contaminants in those bombs.

During Operation Iraqi Freedom (OIF) I was part of a unit called the Combined Joint Task Force, Consequence Management (CJTF-CM). Our basic job was to respond to Sadaam’s chemical or biological SCUD missiles by cordoning off and decontaminating the area hit. When I saw the bombing videos, a year’s worth of training came rushing back to my brain and after looking through the archives did not see much written on this topic and thought I would share my experiences and ideas.

The purpose of this article is to provide you with a very simplified decision aid, when you think or the news lets you know that a chemical, biological, radiological, or nuclear (CBRN) release occurred near you, your bug out location, or somewhere in between and you need to decide to bug in or bug out.

Before we begin, I will first define what I mean by “plume”. That brown cloud of dust from the marathon bombs contained particles that, at first, have no real shape and are amoeba-like. After a few seconds to minutes, though, that cloud of particles will move and form what is referred to as a plume. A simple way to visualize a plume is to look at an active smoke stack on a windy day. If there is no wind, the smoke tends to look like a large cloud. With some wind, however, it tends to take on a cone-like shape that expands up, down, left, and right as it elongates with the wind direction. This is the “plume”. Even if there is no wind, eventually, the smoke will move with air pressure vagaries associated with whatever terrain is in the area.

If the plume is contaminated with any CBRN agent, then it is probably something you should be concerned about because the longer you spend in the plume, protected or not, the greater the chance of serious injury or death. Not to mention, if you are in the plume, you are dragging whatever is in the plume with you to wherever you are going–you are now contaminated and spreading it! Understanding how a toxic plume moves is critical to staying safe and preventing further contamination.

Two skills and one piece of background knowledge are required for understanding how to avoid the plume: 1) being able to conduct an Intelligence Preparation of the Battle (IPB) and 2) predicting the weather. Also, knowing how officials will respond will impact your mobility, so having some background information about first-responder activity will help you when making your decision to stay or go.

Disclaimer: Tracking the plume is incredibly difficult to do, and my goal is to break it down into simple discrete steps that can be performed while under pressure. If an event occurs and you are in a position where you have to decide whether to bug out or bug in, I am confident that this article will help you make a sound, informed decision. Heck, we were willing to put our lives on the line during OIF using this technique. However, a toxic plume can be similar to a wild animal in that you are never 100% certain of anything, so please use caution and your best judgment.

Background Information

Anticipating how responders deal with a CBRN event will definitely affect your mobility, so it is important to anticipate and plan for their actions. Once a CBRN event occurs, the first thing responders will do is cordon the area, at least that is what we did when we trained for OIF. The purpose of this cordon is to prevent anyone from entering the immediate contaminated area. This area will be impassable to you. If this area lies in your area of operation (AO), you will not be going through it and must find another route. For the sake of this article, your AO is your house, where you commute to, your bug out location, and everywhere in between. According to the Center for Disease Control’s directions for first responders (index for type of agent is found here), the cordon area has a radius of .5 mile. It sounds small, but the man power required to cordon this area will take more than just your local police department. Not to mention the people trying to get out of that radius because they are contaminated and doing the Sarin-induced funky chicken. In other words, that immediate cordon area will be chaotic and dangerous. Once the area is cordoned, responders will begin attempting to decontaminate, while at the same time working downwind of the plume, in an area not yet touched by the toxic plume, but soon to be touched, to protect citizens. The typical advice we gave the Kuwaitis was seal all doors and windows with duct tape, grab gas masks, wear clothes with limited skin exposed, and wait until they heard the all clear siren. Here in the U.S., with the National Defense Authorization Act, I might imagine this would be perfect for martial law with similar directions to households. Obviously, a martial law type situation will dramatically hinder your ability to move. Luckily, this step will probably take a while, and if you move within the first four hours, odds are, you will avoid a martial law scenario. The man power to enforce such an action is tremendous; we had 1800 troops from all four branches of the U.S. military and five other countries, plus some large vehicles, and we were going to fall far short for anything sustainable. I guess I would say you have a little bit of time, but I am not sure I would push it. There are also competing priorities for responders. They must prevent people from entering the area, they must find people, clean them, then attempt to triage the injured. If weather conditions are favorable for CBRN agents, responders may actually try to decontaminate the terrain. During our training for OIF, we tried to avoid this at all cost because time, some wind, and rain make most agents disappear within a day or two. Why kill our own trying to clean when we can wait? Nonetheless, decontaminating terrain may occur, thus reducing your mobility. After initial cordon, responders may move about the contaminated area searching for survivors and decontaminating personnel and equipment.

All this adds up to a lot of people and large vehicles in the middle of your area of operation (AO) that are either trying to clean you (whether you like it or not), prevent you from moving where you want to go, or just getting in your way and reducing mobility to a crawl.

From what we practiced in OIF, we tried to get the cordon done in the first four hours and establish command and control with the first round of decontamination completed within eight hours. At 12 hours into the incident, we were prepared to hand over operations to a larger unit capable of sustainable decontamination operations. What this means for you is that, ideally, you want to make your decision and be moving well inside of the first four hours. After four hours, assume responders will have things generally under control and your mobility will be extremely limited.

Responders require assets– local or outsourced. The first of which will probably be water. Water and lots of it are critical to decontamination efforts. Medical treatment facilities will also be needed. We planned on overcrowding for Kuwait City hospital beds within the first four hours, so we knew we needed a field hospital. We also needed a command post (CP) to coordinate and maintain situational awareness. We had enough assets to set up a small, fully equipped CP, but we were only directing direct traffic, so to speak. If an event had occurred and we had cordoned the area, knew casualty counts, area of damage, agent used, et cetera., we would turn it over to Doha’s command at about 12 hours after the event. I mention this because first responders will use what they have on hand–local fire trucks, rivers, ponds, fire hydrants, anything capable of producing water. Plus they’ll use their small deployable CP on wheels or take over a nearby school, office building, or barn. Areas large enough for field hospitals that are dust-off capable (able to land a helicopter) will be obtained by responders. Think about the movie Contagion–schools and stadiums are perfect locations for a combination command post, field hospital, and decontamination site. Remember, responders going into the area need to be cleaned after coming out of the contaminated area and so do the vehicles. It is a fairly massive operation, which requires a few football fields of space with tens of thousands of gallons of water per day. Traffic into and out of this area will be closely guarded and controlled to prevent the spread of the contaminant.

Keep this information in mind for when I discuss your AO IPB.

Plume Intelligence Preparation of the Battle

The next part of IPB is to actually track the plume itself. What I present here is based on experience from OIF as well as guidance from online plume models such as ALOHA (you can download a free copy here), which is made by NOAA. It is really pretty cool, and I recommend playing with it. The model we used, that FEMA gave us during OIF, was very similar, although with less capability. (I used the model 10 years ago!) Basically, these models are on a computer; you enter the parameters, and it generates a multicolored teardrop looking plume, overlaid on a map of the area based on parameters like type of agent, size of incident, wind speed, and so forth.

Using a clear piece of plastic with some stiffness, like a transparency, cut out an 8 x 4 inch rectangle, assuming you are using a 1:24,000 scale map. I say rectangle because it has more surface area and thus is a safer geometric shape for tracking a plume. Outline the rectangle first with a marker, so it leaves a line around the edges. Draw a line in the middle of the rectangle down the long axis. At one end of the rectangle, where the middle line intersects the short edge of the rectangle, make a dot. This is your generic plume, a rectangle with a line down the middle long ways and a dot at one end. On a 1:24,000 map this equates to a 3-mile long by 1.5-mile wide area of plume. Now, according to the CDC website, this is too small of an area for a large Sarin-tipped missile. The CDC claims they would want to “protect” persons seven+ miles downwind for a 53 gallon spill, as if it were in a large missile. Given the average map size and the quickness a prepared person would want to leave (inside of four hours) a 3 x 1.5 mile rectangle is probably okay. Now remember, I did say PROBABLY. Ideally, you would want a rectangle 20 inches long (seven miles) by 8 inches wide (three miles) in keeping with CDC recommendations. I’m not sure we would see a large missile like that or that large of an event, but we might. In any case, a 20-inch transparency is unwieldy for most detailed topographic maps. If you have a 1:60,000 or 1:250,000 scale map, however, you can scale accordingly and thus be extra safe. In any case, after this article you will have the skill to draw the transparency plume with whatever degree of safety you feel is adequate. Use the map scale and the CDC website to help you decide how large to create the rectangle.

So you now have the maps with your routes, alternate routes, and CBRN-relevant features identified, and you just received the location of a CBRN incident. Luckily, you caught the prevailing wind direction in the report. You take out your plume transparency and lay the dot on the transparency over the place where the event occurred. While holding the dot in place, perhaps with a thumb tack or push pin, rotate the plume transparency until the middle line of the transparency matches the direction of the wind with most of the transparency pointing downwind. Trace the transparency. Maybe your map is laminated and you can do this with dry erase marker or maybe you can use a pencil. Now, you have a map of your AO, with key terrain and routes marked, with a rectangle somewhere in it. This rectangle represents contamination. You cannot travel into or out of this rectangle. If you are in it, you need to begin protective measures immediately. I will not discuss protective measures here. There are ample articles in the Survival Blog Archives to help you. If you are not in the rectangle (the contaminated area), but the rectangle is between where you are and where you want to go, you will have to find new routes to where you want to go.

Winds change. The easiest way to track wind changes outside of the weather channel or a hand-held device is to use a weather vane. I found you can make a simple one using a straw, card stock, a pushpin, and a pencil. You can also use some leaves, grass, lint, or smoke along with a compass. Throw the leaves, grass, or lint in the air, and see which way they fall, and shoot an azimuth with your compass. Hunters use a scentless “smoke bottle”. To make a smoke bottle, put some talcum powder in a small Visine or contact solution bottle. Simply squeeze the bottle, look at where the mini-plume of talc goes, and shoot an azimuth with your compass. Hunters use this little trick, and if you do not want to make one, you can purchase one at any store that has hunting equipment. Keep this bottle or weather vane with you, and you will be able to track wind direction. As winds change, rotate the plume transparency middle line with the direction of the wind change, and trace again. Repeat as the wind changes. Every time a major wind change occurs, you should retrace the plume transparency because as winds change, the contaminated area grows further limiting your mobility. Yes, your areas will overlap, but that is okay; everything within the rectangles are contaminated. Within a four hour time frame, prevailing winds probably will not change, if it is in the middle of the day or night, but during transition times, such as dawn or dusk, day to night, or night to day, winds can and do change so you might have to continue tracing.

Also remember the peripheral effects of that new contaminated area. There will be lots of official activity within that plume area, and if you are in that area uninvited, you just might be forcibly cleaned. The Czech Republic decontamination unit, which conducted the cleanings for OIF, described something that was not my idea of a fun evening on the town. More than 20 soldiers tearing all the clothes from your body, hosing you down with high pressure water hoses, strapping you onto a clean steel table, and then scrubbing every inch of your body with long handled bristle brushes is not pleasant. It often resulted in broken skin, which my Czech comrades said was not that big of a deal. I guess I am saying it is probably in your best interest to avoid the plume at all costs, unless you have an affinity to 20 plus people, armed with two-foot long brushes, bearing witness to your birthday suit.

The purpose of the IPB, as I outlined it, and the plume transparency is to provide you with advanced situational awareness. This advanced situational awareness will help you decide to stay in or bug out because you will know how much of the terrain is denied to you in terms of mobility. You will be able to know whether or not you can execute your primary route or secondary route, or need to find a tertiary route in the moment, while at the same time responders are just beginning to lock down the area. If the plume is close enough or even in your immediate location, you can take preventative measures to reduce exposure probably before the contamination reaches you, all while avoiding unnecessary contact with responders. The sooner you make your decision, the greater mobility you will have.

If your decision must be delayed by a few hours due to unforeseen circumstances, some knowledge about weather and terrain may be helpful in determining plume propagation beyond the initial few hours. As time elapses, confidence in your traced rectangle degrades because the plume is subject to more variables. Wind speed and temperature affect plume propagation as does terrain. The net result of these variables is reduced confidence in your traced triangle. In other words, certain weather conditions may force you to adjust the contamination area.

Examining the various variables associated with plume propagation is extremely difficult and fraught with inaccuracies. What I am suggesting here is simplified to help you evaluate the situation quickly. There is a balance among air temperature, soil temperature, precipitation, wind speed, wind direction time of day, presence of an inversion, type of agent, how much of the agent, etc. that is too hard to describe in an article let alone a large simulation model. There are some generalities, however, that will assist in your decisions based on a few parameters: wind speed, temperature, terrain, and inversion presence. I will address each of these in terms of confidence in your plume rectangle.

Intelligence Preparation of the Battle of Your Area of Operation

I am sure it goes without saying, but have several maps of your AO. I get my maps from USGS for free, download them to a computer, and manipulate the images digitally so I can customize what I need. You can also pay USGS the $8 or $9 per map, but the digital maps are free when downloaded. I usually use the 1:24,000 scale maps, and that is what I will use in this article. The better quality of the map, the better decisions you will make, but any map is better than no map. Just keep in mind you will need to work within the scale of the map.

Within your AO, make sure areas of water–ponds, rivers, lakes, and streams are well marked. Are they accessible by improved roads? If so, and your commuter route or bug out route crosses these water features that are accessible by large vehicles, then make sure you have an alternate route. This same idea applies to local schools, stadiums, hospitals, and any area with a lot of infrastructure, rooms, phones, and antennas, as well as large open areas, like parking lots or fields. These will become CPs for responders. All improved roads (hardball roads that have blacktop or concrete as a surface) into and out of this area will only be accessible for official vehicles. I say improved because mobile decontamination vehicles, like the M93 Fox (used by the U.S. military) are well over 17 tons (maybe as much as 20 tons when combat loaded). Responders may not risk using roads that cannot support this large of a vehicle.

Now mark your primary and alternate routes to and from work and to and from your bug out location. Ask yourself, “Are these routes near any of the above objects? Near a water source? Hospitals? Stadiums? Large open areas?” If so, consider adding a tertiary route. In the army, we used the acronym PACE: Primary, Alternate, Contingency, Emergency when constructing plans or signals. Now your map may get too cluttered highlighting four different routes for your commute and bug out location, so you do not have to address PACE, just have a good working knowledge of your AO. Odds are you will have some time to lay out your plume IPB and find a new route.

Wind Speed

FM 3-6 has four different categories of wind speeds. We can probably get away with one delineator–winds at 13 mph. According to the Beaufort Scale, winds greater than 13 mph mean that, “Small branches move, flags flap, waves have some whitecaps”. If this is occurring, then your plume rectangle might only be good for two hours, expanding beyond the three miles longitudinally, with some minor reduction in the 1.5 mile width. In other words, you would need to expand your rectangle from eight inches to maybe ten inches, but reduce the width of the rectangle by an inch. Use caution if you are going to change the dimensions of the triangle; remember, these are guidelines, not fact. Persistence of the agent generally degrades with higher winds. “Persistence” means how long the agent will remain, if no decontamination occurs. If the amount of agent dictates that it will persists for say three days, and winds stay above 13 mph, then agent persistence might reduce by 12-36 hours.

If winds are below 13 mph, assume your rectangle is good, and stay away from that area as well as the fringe areas. As time elapses, be prepared to expand your rectangle by an inch in all directions every four hours or so.

Temperature

Generally speaking, the higher the temperature, the less persistent the agent and more readily the plume will spread. There is a greater risk to individuals, however, as temperature increases. Perspiration on your skin will be more apt to absorb some agents. FM 3-6 draws your attention to this fact, so stay covered up, even if it is 100 degrees outside! So, the hotter it is, the more likely the actual plume will match your plume rectangle plus an increased chance that the plume will exceed the 1.5 mile width and 3 mile length as time elapses. By the end of four hours, with high temperatures such as in the summer, areas outside your rectangle may be contaminated. High temperatures also reduce agent persistence, but this depends very strongly on the type of agent, as some agents will increase persistence with an increase in temperature. Cold temperatures, as in winter, however, will increase agent persistent 12-48 hours, depending on the agent.

Terrain

Complex terrain, such as an urban environment make tracking the plume that much more, well, complicated. One way to compensate for the complexity of urban terrain is to draw an 8 x 8 inch square, instead of rectangle, which I would recommend doing if any part of your AO is considered urban or even suburban terrain. Concrete buildings, cars, pollution, and so forth all dramatically alter both wind speed and temperature’s effect on plume propagation. The only way I would trust my plume rectangle is if winds were closer to 20 mph. If terrain is flat, or low rolling hills, trust your plume rectangle. If terrain is heavily wooded, the overall plume rectangle will be smaller, so trust it, and if you had to, you can maneuver closer to the contaminated area. Any terrain features alter plume propagation making any estimate fundamentally unreliable. The way we correct for it is to make our rectangle a bit more square or simply make the rectangle larger in both length and width.

Inversion Presence

An inversion is when hotter air lies on top of colder air. On the eve of our invasion of Iraq during OIF, there was an inversion at 2000 feet, which is perfect for deploying chemical weapons. An inversion means that no agent is lost to the upper atmosphere through diffusion; all agents are pushed back down to Earth’s surface, due to this pressure difference caused by the hot air on top rather than closer to Earth. This means that you may have to track the plume longer than the three days usually associated with a large Sarin release. It could mean that contamination could continue to spread in the plume beyond five days, so you will have to continue to track the plume beyond what is initially thought. The weather channel and local news generally does not report on this inversion. Luckily, the tell-tale signs of an inversion are not overly complicated. You can spot an inversion when “mist, fog, or dew is visible, smoke or dust hangs in the air and moves sideways, just above the surface; and cumulus clouds that have built up during the day collapse towards evening,” (Grains Research and Development Corporation, November, 2011). Again, presence of an inversion means that responders will be doing their job longer, and the plume will propagate further than anticipated based on the kind of agent used.

Summarized Steps

There is a lot to digest in this article from plume definition to identifying a potential inversion. Below, I will wrap up all that I have discussed in simple steps. If worse comes to worst, you could print this article, cut just this part out, and put it in with your maps.

Before a Chemical, Biological, Radiological, or Nuclear Incident:

  1. Highlight or make note of any key terrain associated with the plume: sources of water (rivers, lakes, ponds, streams), open fields, stadiums, schools, and hospitals.
  2. Highlight commuting route (primary and alternate). Routes from commute to bug out location, (primary and alternate). Routes from home to bug out location.
  3. Create plume transparency. This assumes a 1:24,000 scale map. Cut out an 8 x 4 inch clear transparency. Outline the rectangle. Bisect the rectangle with a drawn line down the middle of the long edge. Mark a dot where this bisector line intersects with one of the short edges. Keep with your maps along with a thumb tack or push pin.

After CBRN Incident Occurs:

  1. Remember, you are making the decision, “Do I bug in or bug out?”
  2. Take plume transparency, put dot on transparency over where the incident occurred. Stick push pin in dot.
  3. Rotate transparency so that the bisector line aligns with wind direction. Trace rectangle so that what you are tracing is on the map, not on the transparency.
  4. Check weather conditions. If the wind is not moving tree branches or flags, trust your rectangle. If tree branches and flags are waving, your rectangle may only be good for two hours, and you will have to retrace.
  5. Make a decision by answering these questions: “Am I in the rectangle?” Yes, then stay put and begin preventative measures.

If no, then look at your routes. Do any of your routes go through the rectangle? Are there any key terrain features near the rectangle that may interfere with your routes? If yes, use an alternate route or draw a new route. If no, then assess if you will have to move after four hours–are you in the downwind area? Are you currently located in line with the rectangle bisector line, but just outside it? Then, after four hours, you will be in the plume and need to move.

Will your bug out location be in the plume? If yes, then bug in. If no, (and you can move), move to your bug out location (or whatever your preference is).

Please remember, this is a situational awareness aid to help you decide whether to bug in or bug out. If you have a computer, by all means run the ALOHA program and get better estimates. If you still have questions, I encourage you to read FM 3-6; it is really informative. Plus, if you plan on defending your home, this FM is great for instructing you on how to use smoke screens effectively!

I have shared with you a methodology we used during OIF to help keep the troops and people of Kuwait safe. Hopefully this article will enable you to make an informed decision about whether you should bug in or bug out in case that brown smoke, such as in the Boston Marathon Bombing, is something other than just brown smoke.



Letter Re: 110 Buck Knife

Sir,

I just read Pat’s report on the Buck knife. I have carried and used one of these knives for over 40 years. They can be opened and closed using just one hand. Using thumb pressure on the blade you can open the knife. Holding the knife by the blade you can use the weight of the handle to swing the knife open. – C.B.

o o o

Hugh,

In addition to the off the shelf mass production Buck 110 knife, Buck has a custom shop that will make a custom 110 knife for you. Custom in that blade metal can be upgraded, handle scales from different wood or horns, etc.

This past year I got myself a custom 110 with upgraded blade metal – S30V – buffalo horn for the scales, and silver nickel for the end caps and bolsters. The ability to upgrade to a much better quality blade metal is well worth the wait and the extra price. – H.D.



Letter Re: Kansas Bill

Sir,

This is response to the officer of 15 years. For the first time in the history of Las Vegas a police officer was fired. Why? All he did was use his AR15 to shoot an unarmed veteran sitting in a car, 7 times in the back of the head. But that is not why he was really fired. No charges were brought because every time a cop kills someone they use the “I did not intend to kill them, no intent no crime”, this defense only works for cops. He was fired only because the sherriff is trying to convince the county council they need to raise the sales tax to pay for more cops. He was asked about this officer at the first hearing, the request was turned down. So before the next hearing he was fired. Good news, the union says it will get him his job back.

Recently multiple agencies were recorded on tape assaulting a man they pulled over. Most of the officers stood by and watched as 8 officers beat this man to the ground, while holding him down another officer starts kicking him in the face. His crime, he went in to diabetic shock and swerved while driving. No officers punished, city settled out of court as they do for all of these crimes.

When these things happen, the police investigate themselves and it always turns out the same way, protect the blue line. So yeah, having more laws protecting those hired to serve and protect is not needed. We need, as with everything else, to actually obey the laws that are already on the books.

The cops have become more militarized, not just with equipment but attitude. You hear then refer to other citizens as “civilians” when in fact cops are “civilians” too. It may look like we live in a police state but we do not, yet.

Keep up the great work on the blog. – K.G.

HJL Replies: It is important to keep a balanced perspective here. I detest the militarization of the police (and the abuses of power that seem to follow along with it). Over the past 40 years, I have seen a movement away from the “beat” cop to more of an emergency response team. This approach to policing is forced by many things, including budget cuts, dependance on federal dollars, and even policies (like the war on drugs). We see a general decline in respect and manners in the public and it follows that since the LE agencies draw upon the public, there will be the same decline among their ranks. There no longer seems to be a reasonable relationship between LE agencies and the general public. I would agree that the “Blue Line” is an inappropriate response, but so is the behavior they are tasked to manage.

Many years ago, I learned a simple phrase in dealing with my children’s discipline that helped me raise them well. The same phrase could apply to Law Enforcement: “Discipline without relationship equals rebellion.” Without a reasonable relationship existing between LE and the general public, these sorts of incidents will continue to escalate regardless of what laws we put in place.







Odds ‘n Sods:

Wow! This may be the ticket for advanced medical care in TEOTWAWKI: Super-Cheap Paper Microscope Could Save Millions of Lives – O.C.

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DGJ came across this article on why you might want at least one article of Hi-Vis clothing or equipment in your emergency car kit or BOB. If the ‘event’ you are getting away from is a natural disaster, or something similar, being noticed might be a good thing! Having options other than all-camo could be a wise decision.

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This new item from KRQE in albuquerque follows on the heels of a long running discussion in SurvivalBlog on the balance between LE abuses and oversight. In this case, the video from the officers helmet cam has been released, but it is still tough to call. Mental illness obviously factors in here as well. Homeless man camping on open space land killed by Albuquerque police. – S.M.

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Man Found Guilty Of Electronic Cigarette Law That Does Not Exist. – L.C.

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Why many preppers will die– D.B. Note: This is a link to Selco’s Blog. Strong, offensive language may be present.





Guest Article: High Quality Survival Tools, by J.F.

Flight Jacket

I like black flight jackets. They are dressy enough to wear to an art reception and common enough to be worn to a junk yard. They’re made of water-proof nylon and have two large button outside pockets, two large inside button pockets, and a pocket on the shoulder. The best one that I have found is sold at Alpha Industries. If you look in the left front pocket, there is a white label that states Alpha Industries Jacket, Flyers, Man Intermediate. On the shoulder pen pocket is a small black label sticking out with a gold sort of “A” on it with three bars on either side of the “A”. This is how you can tell it’s not a cheap one.

Pocket Light

For a little light to carry in my pants pocket, I like the Fenix E11 light, available from Duluth Trading for $40 with shipping. The problem with all the other lights is that they either come unscrewed in my pocket, get accidentally switched “on”, or are very dim. This light has a strong click button on the end so it stays “off” in my pocket, and it never comes unscrewed. It uses a standard AA battery, which makes it easy to carry a spare in your flight jacket. It is very bright at 115 lumens with its LED bulb. It is not much bigger than a AA battery. So, now instead of carrying an extra AA battery, I just carry a second E11 light in case the battery dies, thus providing me with a full backup or extra light for a partner.

Cell Phone Charger Battery

I carry a PowerRocks backup cell phone charger battery, available in Verizon stores. This is the rectangular one, which is bigger than the cylinder one. It has a lot of power and is good for four charges of an iPhone. It charges a lot faster than a car charger, too. It’s about $70 and comes in colors, in case you want to get a second one and need to keep track of which is which.

Cell Phone

I bought a second cell phone, in case everything falls apart with the main cell phone when I am in a jam. I got a T-Mobile flip phone from Walmart for about $40. I put on a $10 minute card every three months. It seems to be able to hold a charge for many months. It’s not very big and doesn’t take up much room. When you get the phone, you go on the Internet and pick the area code you want, and it gives you the number. I put the number on the phone with my label maker. So, if the iPhone breaks, runs out of charge, or if Verizon goes down, I have a completely separate system for the low cost of $10 a quarter.

I carry extra 12v and 110 volt plugs and the charging wire for the iPhone and the wire that goes from the PowerRock to the iPhone. Unfortunately, the flip phone has a big charger and a Samsung-unique plug. Given enough research, one could probably find a better flip phone that could be charged directly off the PowerRock battery.

Odds and Ends

All of this fits easily in my flight jacket pockets along with a nice big pocket knife, bandaids, water purification pills, some medicine that I take, two freshly laundered handkerchiefs, some napkins, a big folding black hat, a pair of gloves, some ear plugs for concerts, a very small backup ball point pen, some large paper clips, a couple of Bic lighters, and a pill bottle full of peanuts out of the shell.

Hobos used to make little lamps from a peanut burning the oil within the nut itself. They would take a paperclip, bore a hole in one end of the peanut, and insert a piece of toilet paper in the hole for a wick and then make a stand of the paperclip to hold the lamp up by drilling into the other end of the nut. It burns for quite some time. Remember, Rudolph Diesel used peanut oil for his first engines.

In addition, in the small pill bottle I carry a push pin for punching holes, a couple of safety pins, different sized nails for boring holes, and bit of toilet paper rolled up in the size of a dice for the lamp.

I also carry a couple of small ziplock bags, which I constantly seem to be using for something. I carry am ATM card for my secondary bank and an extra set of car and house keys. They theory behind the extra keys is that if I get my wallet stolen and not my jacket, I can still get inside my car, get to an ATM, and get into my home. I also carry a couple of twenty dollar bills and a dozen quarters, which can operate a pay phone or a vending machine.



Pat’s Product Review – Solar Flare Solar Cooker

I must say that, in all my years of testing products, the Solar Flare Parabolic Solar Cooker has been one of my most challenging products to test. Made in the U.S., in Bountiful, Utah, this cooker proved a handful. No, not the product itself, rather the weather in my part of Oregon. For the better part of almost a month, we had very heavy, low-hanging fog. It’s been totally frustrating, to say the least!

Anyone who is a prepper, survivalist, camper, or hunter, should understand the “Rule Of Three”, and that is you should always have three ways of accomplishing a task. It’s sort of a back-up plan, with a secondary back-up plan, should plan one or plan two fail you. When it comes to cooking, we have several methods available to us at our homestead. We have our electric cook stove in the kitchen. We also have a propane camp stove that is used a lot when the power goes out. We have a BBQ grill that also has a propane burner on it. We also have a solar oven, and we have several “rocket-type” stoves as well. So, we have a lot of bases covered.

We had more than two solid weeks of heavy fog with no sunshine at all. So, it was impossible to test the Solar Flare Parabolic Cooker during this time. This is an example of why you need back-up plans for your preparedness items. You can’t always count on perfect weather or fuel supplies. I even took the Solar Flare up on a mountain near my home, hoping the fog wouldn’t be up that high. Wrong! On several occasions, the sun did break through late in the day. However, it wasn’t out long enough to get anything cooked in the Solar Flare. No sooner would I get everything set-up, which only takes a few minutes, the sun would disappear behind some heavy clouds or more fog would roll in. It was totally frustrating, to say the least.

A close look at the Solar Flare is in order, and it is one of those “why didn’t I think of that” inventions. First, we have the cooking vessel, which is a large Mason canning jar that has a special coating that helps it retain the heat, so the food cooks inside the jar. The temperature inside the jar can reach 350-400 degrees inside of a few minutes. With the special black colored coating, unlike other solar cookers, there are no hot or cold spots inside the jar, and you don’t have to stir your food as it cooks. In most cases, your food will cook in about 45 minutes to an hour. The cooking jar works similar to a pressure cooker.

We also have the reflector, which catches the sun’s rays. Unlike some solar ovens, this flexible reflector allows the sun’s rays to fully circle the Mason jar– 360 degrees. I’m not sure what material the solar reflector is made out of, but it is familiar to me, and there isn’t any information on the Solar Flare website as to what this material is. You can roll it up and place a rubber band around it, and place it in your backpack for easy transport. Just don’t fold it or wrinkle it, or you’ll lose a lot of the “reflectivity” of the reflector, so be advised!

You also get a plastic bucket with a lid on it to transport the special Mason jar. There is also a cooking bag, similar to what you might find at your local grocery store, that you can place the cooking vessel in on winter days; this helps retain the heat and cook your meal faster. I examined the plastic bag, and it looks for all the world like the bag my wife uses to cook our Thanksgiving turkey in. It helps retain the heat and moisture of the turkey, and it helps to cook it faster.

Here is how the Solar Flare set-up works. You take the reflector and put it together using the easy-to-use fasteners, so you have a parabolic shape to the reflector. You then place the cooking vessel (Mason jar) on top of the plastic bucket, with the lid on the bucket, and place the parabolic reflector around the cooking vessel. On colder days and in the winter, you should place the cooking vessel inside of the plastic cooking bag to help retain the heat and promote faster cooking. You also get two plastic “riser” cups, if you feel the need to raise the cooking vessel a little higher. It depends on the weather and the angle of the sun whether you need the riser cups or not. Experiment! You need to adjust the parabolic reflector so that it is catching the sun’s rays.

Okay, that’s it! There isn’t anything complicated about setting up the Solar Flare cooker. It really is “that” simple. The only problem I encountered, once we finally got around to actually being able to do some cooking with this product, was wind! A few times the reflector blew off the cooking jar. I did some checking on the Internet and have found numerous people who have used the Solar Flare cooker, and everyone loved it and said it was the best-of-the-best, in regards to this type of set-up. I can’t find much to fault. The thing works and works as advertised, so long as you have access to a solid hour or more of sunshine, and one of the best things is, you can’t overcook your meal.

I did find that it is best to let the cooking vessel cool down a bit before handling it; it gets VERY hot. You don’t have to put the lid on tight; just finger tight, in order for it to work as a pressure cooker. You can also use it to pasteurize water, too. Another thing worth noting is that, if you are on the run, you sure don’t want to make a campfire and have smoke giving away your position. On the other hand, you want to make sure that the solar reflector doesn’t give away your position either, with the sun reflecting off your cooker and giving the bad guys your exact location. However, with a little experimentation, you can safely hide the reflector with a little bit of camo, yet still allow it to cook your meal.

I’d like to see the Solar Flare come with two of the specially-coated Mason jars. Once one is filled and the food inside is cooked, you could place the second one inside the Solar Flare for a second person’s meal to start cooking. As an aside, I’d like to see Solar Zenith include some kind of carrier for the reflector, so after you roll it up, you can place it inside of the carrier and not worry about it getting bent or crinkled. A mailing tube that you could get at any post office of office supply store would work. Still, I think it would be a dandy item to include in the kit as it comes from the factory. That’s just my two-cents worth.

A single Solar Flare cooker sells for $69.99, and you can get two of them for $99.99. To be sure, they are a lot of fun to cook with, and they work as advertised, when you have some sunshine for more than an hour or so. I was totally frustrated with the lack of sunshine we had in our area, but I was determined that this product would work. Once the sun came out, at long last, I put it to the test and cooked several meals over several days. A person can cook a couple days worth of meals at one time, if they had more than one cooking vessel. You can purchase additional accessories from the company, so be sure to check out their website for more information.

Once again, this product proved that you really need to follow the “Rule Of Three”and have three different ways to accomplish any task, including cooking. Remember, no single method of doing anything is something you want to depend on. If you want to start a campfire, you should have matches, a flint and steel, a butane lighter, et cetera. Don’t just depend on the matches, and don’t depend on just one method of cooking. Explore other avenues, and the Solar Flare is one great method for flameless cooking in an emergency or even just cooking out in the great outdoors, as an alternate way of doing your cooking. It’s a worthwhile investment to your emergency preps. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Pat’s Product Review – Buck Knives 110 Folder 50th Anniversary Edition

Buck Knives, www.buckknives.com , has been around for about 100 years, depending on who you talk to. Their most popular folding knife is still their Model 110 lock-back folding knife that is made in their plant in Post Falls, Idaho. Many people say that imitation is the sincerest form or flattery. If that’s the case, then the Buck Model 110 lock-back folding knife is probably one of the most copied folding knives in the world, if not “the” most copied folding lock-back knife.

The Model 110 is now celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2014, and every model will have “50” stamped on the tang of the blade, as well as a medallion in the handle. The sample I received must be one that slipped through because it doesn’t have the medallion in the handle. It is only stamped “50” on the blade. Perhaps I have a one-of-a-kind; we shall see.

For as long as I can remember, and even today when someone sees a large, lock-back folding knife, they often call it a “Buck”, regardless of who made it. However, let’s be clear on this, there is only one Buck Model 110. Everyone else is copying the design. Some make minor changes so as to not infringe on the design. Others simply outright copy the design made famous by Buck. To be sure, they are all copies or clones– some well-made and some junk, with the pure junk being made overseas and imported into the U.S. There is only one Buck Model 110, and it’s the real deal!

The blade on the Buck Model 110 is 3 3/4 inches long, but it seems longer, for some reason. The material is 420HC (High Carbon) stainless steel. There is one thing Buck is famous for, and that is that their knives are made out of 420HC and known to hold an edge on the blade for an extremely long time. Therein lies the one minor complaint. The steel is very hard to re-sharpen. For those who aren’t aware, Buck changed their edge geometry a few years back, and now all their knives are much easier to re-sharpen. Before this change, it took a real knack with a sharpening stone to get a dulled Buck knife’s edge back to “hair-popping” sharp– the way it came from the factory. So, if you haven’t purchased a Buck Knife lately because they were hard to re-sharpen, fear not; the task is much easier, thanks to the new edge geometry Buck is putting on all their knives.

The 110 has Macassar ebony Dymondwood handle scales, and this is very dense material– almost indestructible, to be sure. Plus, it is a very attractive deep brown color. Brass bolsters are on either end of the handle, and they are real brass (not brass coated or colored aluminum or steel, like many of the fake 110s have). For all you tactical knife fans, you’ll be sad to know that the 110 does not have thumb studs for rapid opening. It has the old fashion nail nick, so you need two hands to open the blade. As already mentioned, it is a lock-back design with the lock midway down the spine of the handle, and the blade locks-up extremely tight. A black leather belt sheath is included with each 110, too.

Here’s a bit of trivia, and many of you Vietnam Vets will already know this. The Buck Model 110 was the most popular folding knife carried by our troops in Vietnam, and all the base PX outlets sold the 110. If memory serves me correctly, the Buck Model 119 Special was probably the most popular privately-purchased fixed blade knife bought by our troops in the later years of the Vietnam War, too. Buck Knives has a long history with our fighting men and women in the military.

I have an older (not real old, though) Buck Model 110, and I carry it every now and then. Comparing it to the new 50th anniversary edition, side-by-side, I can see the different edge geometry because I know what I’m looking for. Aside from the “50” stamped on the blade’s tang, there is no discernible difference between the older model 110 and the new 110.

A very wise sage, at a major knife company, once told me that a really good knife design will have about a 3-year life. After that, people lose interest in the design and sales decline. Eventually, the design is dropped from the line-up. We are looking at steady sales of the Buck Model 110 for 50 years now, and I don’t see it disappearing from the Buck Knives line-up any time soon, either. The design is as popular as ever. If it wasn’t, then all these copy cat companies wouldn’t be copying the Buck Model 110’s design.

I know that, these days, everyone has to have the latest “tactical” folding knife with thumb studs for fast opening and a pocket clip for easy carry in the pants pocket, and it needs to have a liner-type lock or other similar features. However, for a pure hunting folder, an everyday carry folder, or one for camping and survival purposes, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better folding knife with a longer history than the Buck Model 110 has going for it. So, if you’re in the market for a new folding knife and might just want a little nostalgia to go along with it, take a close look at the Buck 110. Its full retail is only $73.00, and it comes with Buck’s lifetime warranty against defects in materials, too. Just make sure you are purchasing a genuine Buck and not a copy because not every large, lock-back folding knife that looks like a Buck is a Buck. Buy the real deal, and you won’t ever be disappointed. – SurvivalBlog Field Gear Editor Pat Cascio



Recipe of the Week: Homemade Biscuits, By M.B.

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 1/4 cup butter or margarine
  • 3/4 cup milk

Directions:

  1. Combine all dry ingredient and blend well with whisk.
  2. Cut in butter until resembles coarse bread crumbs.
  3. Stir in milk until all comes together to form a dough ball.
  4. Turn out dough ball onto a heavily floured surface. Let set for a couple of minutes and then knead for about a minute and then re-flour surface and pat out to about 1/2? thick.
  5. Cut biscuits with floured biscuit cutter or thick drinking glass or a cup and place into ungreased baking pan.
  6. Form remaining dough into ball and repeat until all dough made into biscuits.
  7. Bake in 425-450 degree oven for 12-15 minutes.

This recipe will make approximately 12 biscuits and will freeze well too. Just place your cut biscuits onto a cookie sheet lined with wax paper or parchment paper and place cookie sheet into freeze making sure to keep level. Once frozen remove and place into a freezer bag and place into freezer. When ready to use just follow baking directions and bake only the amount that you need, you do not have to bake all of them at one time.

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Do you have a favorite recipe that would be of interest to SurvivalBlog readers? Please send it viae-mail. Thanks!



Letter Re: Magnum Research

Pat Cascio product review on the Magnum Research 1911C generated an interesting conversation with a SurvivalBlog reader:

There are a plethora of 1911s on the market, many of them suitable for combat. If I am going to own a gun from Magnum Research, it would have to be a Desert Eagle. – B.P.

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Ben,

I have owned a Desert Eagle in .50AE. It wasn’t one of the plated weapons but just a plain parkerized version. I will have to admit that the “fun” factor was second to none on that handgun. However, the reality is that it was the most impractical hand gun I have ever owned. I eventually sold it as fodder to standardize the weapons and calibers that I had.

My complaints with the Desert Eagle are many, but include:

  1. It has a rotary bolt. The torque of the bolt unlocking meant that there was significant rotation of the weapon in your hand. The more rotation you allowed through your grip, the more energy was absorbed in the recoil and resulted in less reliable slide lock-up. I’m not a small guy (220 pounds), and I couldn’t reliably fire it one-handed. One-handed drills resulted in about a 50% failure rate. I experienced either incomplete return to battery, extraction failures, or failure to strip a new round from the magazine. (These problems occurred even with off-the-shelf IMI gold/black box ammo.)
  2. The safety level has the worst design… EVER! The thumb-activated safety (not a decocking lever) was a slide mounted, push forward design. This meant that to carry it for combat, you have to carry it in condition one. Drawing, safety-off, and firing was not a smooth progression, as it is for 1911 types. You had to deliberately push the safety forward and get your thumb out of the way before firing, which is not a natural action, I assure you. The extended nature of the safety (due to the size of the slide) meant that if you accidentally fired the weapon before consciously removing your thumb, you were going to lose part of your hand (as the safety would grab your thumb, and the slide would then rip your thumb backward). If your hand is big enough, you get sore. If you have a small hand, you get damage to your thumb and webbing of the hand. In both cases, the gun rips itself out of your grip and falls to the floor. (Hopefully, it has a failure to return to battery at this point.) The only way around this was to carry in condition three. There were so many sharp edges on the model I had, you would rip your hands apart trying to do an Israeli draw with it. The sharp edges could probably be remedied, but I was reluctant to add to the already ridiculously high cost.
  3. The thing was massive and tiring to shoot and hold. A large thigh holster is the only reasonable way to carry it.
  4. While take-down was simple and easy, cleaning was not. Also, the powders used in commercial ammo tended to be shotgun powders and burned extremely dirty. Due to the gas-operated design, powder residue is all through the weapon. Plan on an hour or two of cleaning it after shooting.
  5. .50AE might as well be a custom caliber. It’s expensive to purchase new and expensive to reload. Brass is relatively rare and pricey. The rebated rim means no usage in a Dillon RL650 or similar progressive with auto case feeder. $2.00/pop is a bit much for plinking. (Can you really call a .50 plinking?)

Those negatives aside, there is no replacement for the fun factor. I hate indoor shooting ranges, but I used to take my boys to one with this pistol, just for the fun factor. You could line up on the firing line with the other shooters. (The ones that have dividers between them are the best.) You could pretty much tell what the other shooters were shooting. The “pops” were the 9mm. The “booms” were the .45s. The “Bangs” were things like .40S&W or .357sig. You get set up and pull the trigger. My Desert Eagle made a “KA-BOOM!!” with a 5-foot flame. Suddenly, the range falls quite. You’re not sure if there is no other shooting or if you just damaged your hearing, because even double hearing protection (foam plugs and ear muffs) is woefully inadequate. “KA-BOOM!!!” again. Now, lean back in your shooting area to see around the divider, and every eye in the place will be looking at you 🙂 Like I said, the fun factor is off the charts.

I had my fun. Sold it. Now, I wouldn’t go back there. Good memories are enough for me. 🙂 – Hugh

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Yes, I have to agree with you (Hugh) on pretty much all counts. I prefer the DE in 44 mag, as too many broken bones in my hands preclude anything more powerful these days.

The DE is not an effective combat gun. I would never want to tote one on patrol. That said, it could make a suitable platform for handgun hunting, especially with the extended barrel length. In speaking to like-minded engineer types (also big shooters), one could compensate for torque by porting the barrel to counter the twist, with moderately good results and decreased FTF problems.

The fun factor is definitely the primary reason to have/shoot one of these cannons, but it is a niche gun, expensive, and the only production semi-auto I know that truly shoots magnum power. I do not have one in my arsenal because, like you, I have standardized most of what I own (although I can’t seem to let go of my Super Redhawk). Up here in Big Bear country (Alaska), I feel more at ease having a six gun in a chest rig over my waders loaded with “Buffalo Bore” 340 grain flat tops pushing 1,400 fps. That’s still wimpy when facing a big grizzly, but better than throwing rocks or swatting at it with my fly pole. LOL.

Otherwise, I carry one of my Glocks in either 45 or 40 S&W. I got the 45 because I am from the old school on stopping power, wanted something more than seven rounds to a magazine, and the Glock sits in my hand better than a 1911 frame. I have two of the 40 S&W because that is what LE carries around here, and if I need to scrounge or scavenge that is the best bet for re-equipping, should things go very bad, and the wife can grasp that grip better than the 45. I could afford to have both. Plus I scored a Kel Tech Sub 2000 that uses the same mags as the model 22 Glocks, so it makes an interesting tuck away platform for me. I would prefer my AR 15 or better still my AR 10, but as a civilian neither are as portable or convenient. – B.P.