Letter Re: Becoming the Bank in TEOTWAWKI

Hugh,

I am writing concerning the post on “Becoming the Bank in TEOTWAWKI” by J.M. I have followed Survivalblog for the past five years and have worked hard to build a large supply of beans, bullets, and bandages, along with a supply of silver, gold, and cash. The posts over the past five years have been very informative, along with the advice from JWR & HJL. We have read that we need to have enough to be able to share as a testament of our Christian walk, and I hope to be able to do exactly that. We have read that we don’t know what the currency might be in SHTF times. It might be silver, or 22 ammo, or toilet paper. I hope I will be prepared for that time. I go back to the country trading market that JWR described in “Patriots”. The local folk would trade this for that, and it might be a combination of goods and silver. My question to the readers and editors would be about those who are not working at being prepared. Even though JM suggested that we would need an adequate protective force for our bank, those who have nothing other than IPads and video games might eventually decide to gang up and take our bank by force. Even in my neighborhood of 25 houses, I hope those few that are not prepping will not rationalize that since we have so much, they deserve to take whatever they need. I don’t think they will just curl up and die. Assuming a low level of “Rule of Law”, how much do you think we’ll be able to be out there and safe? God be with us all. – F.R.

HJL Replies: If TEOTWAWKI looks similar to what you are imagining, there will be a time of chaos in which no “bank” will be able to operate. The ideas laid out in the article will be necessary when society begins to climb out of the hole but as long as there are marauding brigands, survival will be the name of the game. A close knit community will be of utmost importance and that will be where the rebuilding starts– Not with complete strangers like banking relationships today. I do think relationships will broaden over the following years, just like JWR described in his book Patriots.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Outlawed: The ‘spy’ cars that automatically issue parking fines totalling £300million after protest by privacy campaigners – JBG

I also suspect that “revenue generation” is a significant contributor as to why there is such a rift forming between LEOs and the rest of the population.

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In these Kansas towns, driving a car makes you a potential criminal. – T.P.

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Emails Show Feds Asking Florida Cops to Deceive Judges. – B.G.

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Will You Survive Being Sent To A FEMA Camp? – J.W.

HJL Notes: While I disagree with some of the basic principles that this article is based upon, like the U.S. government’s intention to round up citizens to populate these “camps”, the article presents some good historical evidence from WWII and the Cold War that the reader should be aware of. The “FEMA Camps” will be emergency centers that are initially set up to help people but will be underfunded, undersupplied, and generally inadequate. The people in need will initially flock to the “camps” for help, then find that they are worse off. Think Hurricane Katrina.

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Hillary calls Gun Owners a “Minority” of Americans & says they are Terrorists. – B.B.

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“And Jesus went into the temple of God, and cast out all them that sold and bought in the temple, and overthrew the tables of the moneychangers, and the seats of them that sold doves, and said unto them, It is written, My house shall be called the house of prayer; but ye have made it a den of thieves.” Matthew 21:12,13 (KJV)

Notes for Saturday – June 21, 2014

June 21st is the birthday of Rex Applegate (June 21, 1914 – July 14, 1998). He was the friend and mentor of SurvivalBlog’s retired Field Gear Editor, Pat Cascio.

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Today we present another entry for Round 53 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  12. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 53 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Family Disaster Planning, by N.J. – Part 1

“Poor Prior Planning Produces Pitifully Poor Performance”, or a similar version known as the “Six P’s”, is the mantra of this document. Plan ahead and you can survive most disasters.

Disasters come in all shapes and sizes. In trying to put together a plan, it is best to have a plan that would “basically” fit any disaster by addressing the complications brought on by a disaster. These complications include loss of power, hampered communication, compromised safe location (temporary or permanent housing), limited resources (food, water, and clothing), financial hardship (separated for obvious reasons), lack of security, lack of transportation, reduced emergency services (outside of security), loss of personal data, and a breakdown in our ability to take part in miscellaneous activities (entertainment, stress release activities, and the like).

Several of the suggested items will not be feasible for some. Depending on your living conditions (apartment vs. house), you may not have the space to take advantage of some of these suggestions. While the financial burden placed on each household to prepare is substantial, it is worth it. Remember, once you make a purchase, you should not need to replace most of these items. After you make a purchase, make sure you are ready to use the item in the event that you need to, by using what’s practical to use and reading about what’s not practical to use. Know how to use the item properly.

Keep in mind that these are suggestions. Assess your household needs and let that be the driving force for what you do/get. While the cost of these items will seem a bit much, remember that you do not have to get everything at once. Prioritize and act accordingly. If you are to use a hub site, please stock this site as well with items you will/may need. Keep a list of all items you have and cycle those items which should be cycled to keep fresh supplies as best as you can. Remember, there is no need to stock items you will not use. If you or your children don’t like certain foods, don’t waste your time or energy. While it’s true that we eat for sustenance, we all know that taste plays an important role in what we eat.

Our family plan should be three tiered. The first tier is based on a single family household structure and covers everyone who lives in a particular house. The second tier is based on an assembly at a hub site. There should be more than one hub with members designated to go to a certain hub. The third tier is based on a backup site. If you are unable to make it to your primary hub, a backup should be designated as part of the plan.

Those members who are designated to use a site as a primary hub are responsible for storing resources (pitching in to keep resources) at the hub. Family members should not be responsible for keeping items at the secondary/backup hub. In addition to this, the primary occupant of a designated hub should not shoulder the responsibility to care for all the needs of all those designated to use their home as an assembly site. As they are volunteering the use of their home, they would coordinate how it is used and have full authority of what goes on in their home.

In all that you do, be mindful of the environment. Do not dump waste into drains, leave trash to blow around the neighborhood, create unhealthy sanitary conditions for yourself or your neighbors, or create conditions that could cause a fire. Keep your home and surroundings as clean as possible to prevent the spread of germs. Take part in activities that build relationships with the whole family as well as your neighbors. Know your neighbors. Stay in touch with family members, even if you don’t like them. Together we stand; divided we fall.

Relocation, Evacuation, Extraction

The best plan for any disaster is to not be in the location where the disaster takes place. While technology has given us the ability to foresee some natural disasters, such as hurricanes, floods, and tornadoes, chances are you will be caught totally off guard in the event that one strikes. Plan for the worst, hope for the best.

Relocation is the best plan one can have in the event of an imminent disaster. The plan should be to relocate until the danger has passed. This could be a hotel out of the danger area, a hub site, a friend’s home, or whatever you designate in your relocation plan. The important thing is to have a plan. With relocation, you have the time to take whatever you deem necessary. Think of it as taking all the same steps you would take if you were going on vacation.

Evacuation plans are a must. You should not only have a plan, but you must practice it once or twice a year. With an evacuation, you take only the essentials. You may only have time to secure your home (see security), taking what you need and going. In the event you have to evacuate, remember, everyone in your area will be doing the same. The sooner you get started, the better off you will be.

Included in your evacuation plan should be instructions on how to evacuate your home and where to meet. There should be two (2) designated places to meet in your plan, both near the house. If your home is more than one story, have evacuation ladders in the bedrooms and practice going out the window. This is very important with small children who may be too scared in the time of an emergency to go out the window. If you practice, this should ease their fears. Keep a fire extinguisher in the master/adult bedroom to assist getting to your child’s room(s).

Extraction is a last resort, and it requires that someone risks their life to come in and get you out. Yes, there should be a plan for this as well. With this plan, you take what you can easily carry and nothing else. Your hands must be free to maneuver. Your body weight should not be more than what you carry on any given day. In the event that the extractor has to physically assist the extractee, do not burden them with added weight.

Each of the above plans should include taking your personal data. An ID, SScard, and birth certificate should always leave with you when you have a disaster take place. If you can get a passport, that is even better. Place these items in a water tight bag and keep it on your person, not in a bag or backpack, but literally on you.

Relocation, Evacuation, Extraction Plans should be written as a detailed subset of a Disaster plan and should be written for each household. Each member of the family should have everyone else’s plans so you know what and where people should be. Extraction plans should have a team designated to perform the extractions. This team should meet and train regularly. This may seem like it’s way out in left field, but if the need ever arose, you will be very happy that you covered the whole field and not just the bases.

You would be surprised at the types of activities which would qualify as training for other activities. Fishing actually helps an extraction team with navigation, teamwork, and battling the elements (depending on the weather when you go fishing). Camping will assist anyone with outdoor living.

Financial Hardship

Financial hardship can arrive in a number of ways, one being the loss of a job. If your place of employment is effected, and you are out of work, government assistance will be initially hard to come by. It all boils down to money. What you can and cannot do depends on how well you have planned and how you have budgeted for your plan. Do yourself a favor– have a budget and stick to it. If you spend wildly in everything you do, at least save for a rainy day.

If you put money away for your disaster plan, do not spend it on other items. Research the best products to spend your money on and make every cent count. Even if you budget 3% of your earnings (that’s $3 out of every $100 you make), you are way ahead of most people.

Start with the essentials: three days of food and water, a first aid kit, a crank radio/flashlight combo and candles. Build upon this by getting a little bit more as you are able. Soon, you will have most of what you need. If you can pool resources to raise money (see Family Business) do so. Sacrifice, what you can do without, to get what you need.

While not everyone can afford to stay at a hotel during a disaster, at least have some money set aside to offer to whomever your plan calls for you to stay with. Don’t wear out your welcome by being lazy and not contributing. Pitch in, and that means more than just financially.

It is very important to have some form of money available for immediate emergencies. This could be a credit card, a prepaid card you only have for this reason, a debit card tied to an account you only use for emergencies, cash, or travelers checks. If you put something aside, make sure it does not expire, lose its value, or becomes stale. Most check items are considered stale after six (6) months. One should never hold a check for longer than it takes to cash it. That includes company checks. You never know when those funds will not be available. If need be, cash the check and get a cashier’s check or money order. If you are really concerned about an emergency fund, remember that cash is king.

Loss of Power

This is probably the most prevalent outcome of any major disaster. It is also the easiest to rectify. Remember the “Six P’s”.

What do we need power for? It keeps food fresh, runs our entertainment items, and keeps the car going, lights on, et cetera. First things first. Have a backup to replace your lost power source.

It is imperative that a portion of your power be dedicated to essential items. With that, your power grid should be segregated. It is also important that you reduce your power consumption to an absolute minimum, in order to conserve this very valuable resource.

Create a list of all items in your home and how much energy each item consumes. Segregate that into what’s essential and what’s simply desired. Use your good judgment to determine what’s best for your needs in what should be powered and what should not. Design your power grid with a source or sources that best fit your needs and budget. The possibilities include any combination of the following:

Power Generator. This has to be big enough to run your essentials for an extended period of time. This includes enough propane, gas, and/or diesel fuel. Multi-fuel generators are a good idea.

Propane. This is a good power source, but you run into the issue of storage. Most people will only have small bottles, which will have to be refilled often. This will become a problem over time, as the ability to get propane decreases with the length of the disaster.

Batteries. While many items run on batteries, one has to store a lot of them to keep the power on for any length of time. For larger power needs, marine batteries work well. They are built to be used in this capacity. Provided there is a means of recharging them (see below), you can’t really go wrong with this option. Again, make sure the essentials are taken care of before you move on to the non-essentials.

There are several different categories with several types of batteries per category. We discuss a few battery types here:

  • crank (for starting motors, i.e. your car battery),
  • deep-cycle (for actually running equipment). It is very important that you use deep cycle batteries, as you are looking for a sustained power source.
  • gel cell and flooded acid batteries differ in the consistency of the acid in the battery (very basic description of the difference). Gel cell batteries have several vulnerabilities, that and the fact that they are more expensive make them the lesser desired choice of the two.

Crank. There are very few items running on a crank, with flashlights being the most prevalent. However, a crank generator can be built out of an old motor, a bike, and batteries. Having the plans readily available with the parts is a good idea; having a built generator is a great idea. Building it and testing it every now and then is a wonderful idea! (Take a look at this site for small basic unit: http://www.econvergence.net/electro.htm .)

Solar. This is a great power source but requires a bank of batteries for extended use (after hours when there is no sunlight). A basic setup can cost under $500.

Wind. Here’s another great power source, but it requires a bank of batteries. Although wind power is normally available in many locations, it should not be relied on as an exclusive power supply unless you live in a very windy area. You’d do better to couple it with solar power, if possible.

Candles. These serve as a great replacement for electric lighting. They should be kept in ample supply. There are some extended life candles, which last at least 100 hours.

Glow sticks. These lighting replacements have lighting applications that extend beyond those of a candle and sometimes even that of a flashlight. Also keep in mind that they are expendable. Place them far off and leave them there to illuminate an area for surveillance, mark off distance, or even find your way back. They can be used by a child to enable the child to see and be seen without risk of burn or fire, especially if carrying his/her lighting.

Communications

This will be one of the biggest items of concern. No one can or should attempt to live in a vacuum. It is imperative that family members stay in touch to coordinate shared resources and movement, while keeping each other informed of opportunities and dangers. Care should be taken in what is discussed on any telecom device or in public for that matter.

A phone list should be developed and maintained. At least one (two would be best) out-of-state person(s) should be designated as the contact for everyone. In most disasters it is easier to make long distance calls than it is to make local calls. Have everyone contact this person with their whereabouts and plans. The hubs should call this person (people) to make and get updates daily.

Using a HAM radio is by far the best option. HAM radio is basically free, and with it you can communicate with people all over the world. As long as you have power, you can communicate. (Your HAM radio certainly qualifies as an essential item for power usage!) All you need to do is search the dial, like tuning in to your favorite radio station, and start talking. There are rules and protocols associated with the use of such equipment. This requires several people learn how to use the equipment. For best results, it should be placed in a central location.

Satellite phones are a great source of communication. You don’t have to worry about traffic on the air waves as sat phones use a different system. Even if HAM Radio is used (and especially if it is not), sat phones should be kept at each hub. They are extremely economical these days. One thousand dollars will get you a good phone with a $600 min/yr plan. If you are only using it in the event of an emergency, it is well worth the investment.

Cell phones are the communication device of choice, but everyone will be on them jamming the air waves and wrecking havoc on this particular choice. If you have one and it’s all you have, use it. If you have other options, go with the other option.

Land line phones are there. Almost everyone has a house phone, and everyone has a phone at work. If it’s all you have, use it.

Walkie talkies have a number of usages. They can be used in conjunction with HAM radios or as the primary mode of communication for your household. These days the cheap ones ($70 per unit) have a 16 mile range. If possible, an investment should be made into high end units with security features. If this is not possible and you do use them, make sure you do not discuss sensitive information on them.

Housing

Housing will be a major concern in any disaster. Temporary housing in central locations is a must. You should have what your family needs to make it through the ordeal. Not just tents, cots, and blankets but a plan. The first thought (after a disaster has occurred) is to stay where you are if you can. If that cannot take place, the next step is to get to a designated location.

Local temporary shelter. Have a tent, cots or sleeping bags, blankets, portable stove, fuel, eating utensils, and so forth to cover each member of your household. Know how to use your equipment. Consider using your equipment and staying in your own yard, if your home is uninhabitable and your yard is not flooded. Have a map handy, in case you have to relocate to locally/government-sponsored temporary housing and to be able to find your way around in general. Locally-sponsored housing raises huge security concerns. Avoid it, if at all possible. It is probably better to be extracted than to go to one of these facilities. If you must go, stay in large numbers (especially true for women and girls). Even if you don’t know the people you are gathered with, stay together for security reasons.

Relocation housing. Plans should have a designated place to meet, and each member of your household should know this place. In the event the family is split up, know your meeting place. Locally-sponsored shelters setup on the fly should be your last resort. There are far too many security, logistical, and sanitation issues associated with them.

Hub temporary housing. Have enough equipment to house those members of the family designated to use the hub as an assembly point. It is not the responsibility of the person living at the hub to supply those who will be using the hub. Store your own supplies there in the event of an emergency.

A great way to test the living conditions is to have those who are designated to use the hub (or maybe a few extra) stay the night. It’s probably best to try this over a holiday, when the family is at the house anyway. This is actually an excellent reason to move holiday functions from one house to the next, testing our ability to live together. While it is over a shorter period of time and tempers are not flaring, like they would in an emergency, we should try a test as best as we can. A test is necessary.

Backup Hub. In the event that you are unable to make it to your primary hub, the backup site is now your destination. As is always the case, communication is the key. Keep people informed of your whereabouts, what you are doing, and where you are going. Once you have made it to your backup hub, you may be able to be transported to your primary site.

We must do our best to keep families together. Children should not be split between hubs, if we can help it. Please keep in mind that these actions, if taken, are the result of an emergency. There will be a lot going on, so please try your best to get along with each other and alleviate any issues as quickly as possible.

In the event someone has to use a backup hub site, please be understanding and share your resources. Again, if transportation can be secured to get people to primary sites, that would be great. If not, please act accordingly.

Letter Re: Salve Making

Dear Mr. Latimer,

S.T.’s article on salve making was very interesting. I’ve been making them for several years now. Because I gift and sell them to other people, I buy different size amber and cobalt blue jars to pour the final product in.

A great muscle balm salve (which I sent to soldiers’ in Afghanistan who liked it a lot!) is to use oils infused with arnica, meadowsweet, comfrey with a little added coconut oil to the melting beeswax. My favorite lip balm is “baby balm”, made with calendula, chamomile, and roses. It’s also great for diaper rash. A friend used it on her surgical incision and another friend on her baby’s circumcision and raved about the rapid healing. The pediatrician was amazed at the baby’s healing and asked her what she was using.

There are so many herbs out there, with so many applications. I’m surprised every day at how God has provided for us, right in our own backyards.

Add more beeswax and you’ll make “lotion bars”. They are “hard” balms. Use molds (I use old ice cube trays) to make a firm bar that you can rub on the skin. They’ll stay together better in the heat. You can use any recipe, but they’re particularly nice with herbs that repel bugs or have some inherent sun protection. You can also use other ingredients, like shea butter, cocoa butter, et cetera.

Finally, you can use just the infused oils for the same applications; they’re just a little messier, but if you find yourself without beeswax or lard, just infuse the oils. Use oils safe for human consumption, as they will be absorbed into the skin, and apply to affected areas. – N.P.

Economics and Investing:

Inflation? Only If You Look At Food, Water, Gas, Electricity And Everything Else – B.B.

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U.S Department of Homeland Security has told banks – in writing – It may inspect safe deposit boxes without warrant and seize any gold, silver, guns or other valuables it finds inside those boxes! – SDS

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Items from Mr Econocobas:

Argentina: Won’t Submit to ‘Extortion’ on Debt

Fed Says Economy “Rebounding” as It Trims Bond Purchases

Fed Officials Raise Forecasts of Target Rates for Next 2 Years, Lower Long-Term Forecast on Slowing Growth

Odds ‘n Sods:

S. 150: The Biggest Proposed Gun and Magazine Ban in American History. – J.W.

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Doctors Without Borders: Ebola ‘out of control’. – A.W.

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Doomsday prepper father accused of plotting to kill federal agents and stockpiling guns and explosives for the ‘end of days’… only for FBI to raid his home and find only food and five legal firearms in safe. – JBG

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DC Court Confirms That Government Agents Can Abuse US Citizens’ Rights With Impunity If They Leave The Country. – H.L.

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An excellent DIY project on instructables that would fit in a BOV just fine. All in One Portable Solar Power Unit: 220V + 12V + 5V + Automatic Battery Charge! – J.H.

Notes for Friday – June 20, 2014

June 20th is the birthday of Audie L. Murphy, who was born in 1925. He died in a plane crash on May 28, 1971. This is also the anniversary of the death of novelist Vince Flynn, who was born April 6, 1966 and died June 19, 2013. His death, at age 47, was a loss to the literary world.

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Today we present another entry for Round 53 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  12. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 53 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.

Gravity Fed Water Systems, by J.S.

8

Gravity systems are simple but very complex at the same time. Having lived on spring water that was fed by gravity for over 50 years, I have some experience in making these systems work and easy to maintain. I hope that my simple overview will help you design, build, and enjoy a gravity-fed system, too.

There are four basic elements to a gravity water system: source, intake, sediment removal, and storage. Of course, you may have to deal with some troubleshooting down the road as well.

Source

The source can be any supply of free water. Spring, creeks, lakes, rivers or even collected rainwater are all viable sources. However, each has advantages and disadvantages to a homeowner. For instance, if you use flowing water, will a flood or mudslide possibly destroy your intake? First on your to-do list is to identify all water sources available to you. Even swampy areas can be a source, so do not be afraid to list everything. The next step is to have the water tested at the county from each source for pollutants. One common mistake beginners make is to assume that all natural water is clean water. Upstream cattle or wildlife populations, farmer field runoff, and so forth can all contribute toxic waste into water that can be hazardous to your health. Have the water tested and keep track of the pollutants found.

The amount of water (usually measured in gallons per minute) is a somewhat useless statistic. The only thing that matters is that the average daily flow is greater than your average daily need. Your storage tank will even out the difference on days your use exceeds your input and refill when the reverse is true.

Your next step is to pick your top two water sources. I pick the top two water sources using a scoring system; each source is rated based upon the following attributes to obtain each source’s total score. The top two highest scores at the two preferred sources. The movement score ranges from -3 for stagnant water to +3 for rapidly moving water. The pollution score ranges from -5 for water unsafe to drink to +5 for water that is cleaner than bottled water. (Note: Some pollutants will completely eliminate a source from consideration, such as mercury or arsenic at high levels.) The height score ranges from 0 for water that is level with its usage point to +5 for water that is 200 feet higher than its usage point. The volume score ranges from -2 for a flow that is a quarter of a garden hose to +5 for one that is a full 3-inch pipe flow.

Distance from the usage point is not really a significant consideration. Reliable, safe, plentiful drinking water for the long term is always worth the effort to lay your transport pipe.

Now that we have our scoring system, let’s take my personal gravity system as an example. It is a natural spring, with a seasonal creek addition, that is about 1/4 mile from my home and 230 feet higher than my house. It is a moving water source and would score a 0 on my scale above. Pollution levels actually tested cleaner than bottled water at the county. The spring comes out of a clay bank, so a +5 there. I get an additional +5 for the intake height (The height translates to water pressure at the usage point.) The volume ranks a +2, as it is enough to fill a 1-inch pipe. So, my total score is 12.

My father’s system is similar but is only 40 feet higher than the house and does not test as clean. (It is from an small open creek, but it is safe to drink.) So, the score for his system is 0 (movement) + 0 (pollution) + 1 (height) + 3 (volume) = 4 total score. By comparing water sources this way, it is easy to find your top one or two sources by score. The higher the score, the better.

Intake

Now that we have selected a source of water for our system, we need to devise a way to collect it and get it into our system. Options here include creating small dams, laying a pipe in the creek bottom, placing a pipe attached to the bottom of a float (great for large streams/rivers), or placing a screened box in standing water. Collection can be easy as even the most inexperienced plumber knows that water flows downhill. The problem is you probably do not desire to capture water bugs, salamanders, small fish, moss, leaves and other items inside your water system.

The easiest system to maintain is a graduated screening system. For my father’s system, I use a chicken wire fence across the stream several feet upstream. This keeps out leaves and large debris. At the pool where the intake is, we have a rigid wire mesh small animal cage. Inside the cage we stuff pond filter material, which is cheap and easy to obtain at most hardware stores, to prevent smaller debris from entering the pipe. One key item to remember here is that you are trying to get rid of particulates, not suspended items, so no “chunky” water, just “dirty” water gets through.

You should also build a simple shelter that will divert any falling material downstream from the intake point. You want to keep this as simple as possible, as you will probably need to repair it every other year if it is under tree cover, because falling branches and trees can cause a lot of damage. In open country, this shelter will provide shade, since sunlight causes algae to grow, and it will prevent animals from direct access to your water intake.

Sediment Removal

This is actually done in multiple areas. We already eliminated macro debris at the intake. The pipe should now flow into a sediment trap. Sediment traps are simple. It is just a place where the water pressure drops significantly and the water resides for enough time to allow sediment to collect at the bottom.

To design your removal system, collect a glass or jar of water after “muddying” the waters at the intake. Set the glass/jar down and see how long it takes for the material to collect on the bottom of the glass. The longer it takes, the larger your sediment trap needs to be. On my father’s system, we use a 55-gallon drum on its side. Water flows in on the top side. Once the barrel is full, the water flows out a connection at the top of the downhill end. A plug at the bottom of the downhill end allows us to drain the collected debris, periodically. I have also used a pipe system. Essentially, this is where a one-inch pipe T’s into a 2-inch pipe about two feet from the bottom. This two inch pipe must fill to a height of four feet to continue the flow. This pressure drop (due to the pipe size change) and the “fill” factor of movement, allows the sediment to collect on the bottom of the 2-inch pipe, where it terminates in a valve for sediment drainage. Anything will work, as long as you remember the key elements– pressure reduction, time, fill-action flow, and drain capability.

If you want to use a filter, you will need to install that near the usage point, where you have sufficient water pressure. I have reverse osmosis systems under my sinks and a fine grain filter on the mainline before it enters the house. You will need to replace filters more frequently than the manufacturer recommends, as they are usually rated for treated/city water rather than runoff.

Storage

You will need storage of the collected water. My system has a pool behind an artificial dam at the intake point that holds about 400 gallons of water. I don’t run the risk of running short of water as my source is a permanent spring that has been in use for over 100 years without ever drying up. Previously, my father’s system used a water tank from a steam locomotive that held about 500 gallons. After years of rust, sediment filling between the baffles, and discovering albino crawdads living inside, we switched him to a 1100 gallon polyethylene storage tank this year.

For best results, your tank should contain a minimum of a one-week water supply and preferably at least a month-long supply. Right now you will probably not need that much, but what about after an event? You may need to shut your water intake off for several weeks to prevent ash, fallout, or other contaminants from polluting your storage. What about repairs? You should have supplies on hand, and right now it is no big deal to run down and get another 100 feet of poly pipe and various connectors, but what about after an event? You may have to get very inventive, and it may take more than a few days to find usable replacement parts. Keep a solid supply of parts for whatever system you build. I keep an extra roll of each size polypipe I use and three five-gallon buckets of connectors, valves, and ring clamps.

Troubleshooting

Contamination. Do your homework in advance. Find out exactly how much bleach is necessary to “clean” the water in your storage tank. Know what “cleaners” are necessary for each suspected contaminant and make sure they will not interact with the composition of your pipe or storage tank. If you are in doubt, make sure you have a way to drain your storage and allow it to refill while you ration water. We had to do this on my father’s system when an inconsiderate hunter used our intake point to clean a deer and left all the organs in the intake pond. We know the hunter was aware of where he was because he dug up the pipe to move it out of his way while he worked and then laid it back in the pond when he was done! If you have solar power near your intake, I know of one person who built an enclosure over their spring and installed multiple submersible UV water purification systems designed for fish tanks. (He found four of these were cheaper than one designed for home use.) It’s your water system, so redundant and varied methods of filtration are recommended, since there is no silver bullet to safe water. However, make sure you have the appropriate systems installed for whatever you found when you had the water tested.

Air locks in the pipe. Hopefully your pipe is downhill all the way to your usage point. Unfortunately, many times it is not. In those cases, you will have a section of pipe that is higher than the rest. This can result in “air locks” preventing water flow. The solution is to install an air release. You do this by installing a “T joint” at the highest point of the rise. Attach a pipe to the “T” and run it up a pole or tree. The top of the pipe must be higher than the intake point if it is a closed system, with no open storage between intake and usage or just several feet higher than the rise if the water flows free into some point lower. You should also install a corner or inverted “J” pipe (think upside down snorkel) to prevent debris from falling into the pipe. Downhill from this point, install a valve. This allows you to back the water up, forcing the air lock into the vertical pipe.

Tree roots. Trees grow and so do their roots. They can “squeeze” or bend pipe to the point where it breaks/ruptures. So have spare pipe on hand and try to stay at least six inches away from all tree roots. Cutting the roots is a bad idea, as this weakens the tree, and if it falls over, it can completely uproot your water line.

Freezing. An open flow system (water continuously flows downhill and excess water runs off at your storage tank) usually only needs to be buried about six inches deep for an inch and a half pipe. During very cold weather, let all your faucets trickle, to keep water moving through the system. Know your local ground temperature! An easy way to do this is to check the internal temperature of any nearby mine shafts or caves. If not, your local U.S. Geological Survey office should have this information. When in doubt, bury your pipe more than one foot deep, but keeping the water flowing is still the best way to keep a pipe from freezing.

Blockage. Sometimes debris (mud, moss, leaves) gets into your pipe and inhibits or prevents proper water flow. You should have a diversion faucet every few hundred feet of pipe. This allows you to drain the pipe at full force near the blockage. It can take several attempts of flow, stop, flow, stop before the plug material comes out. However, it is less work to sit on a hillside at a faucet and play the on/off game than it is to dig up several hundred feet of pipe to find the blockage. If you designed your intake correctly, anything that gets into the pipe should easily exit via the outlet valve. Salamanders are my personal albatross, as they periodically find their way into the pipe past by filters.

Pipe. I prefer poly pipe, as it is easy to install and maintain. Others I know use iron (installed in the 1940s and still working), galvanized, PVC pipe, and copper piping. For me, copper is too expensive and hard to work with. Iron, copper, and galvanized are highly susceptible to freezing issues and can suffer from corrosion. PVC is a nightmare to repair, as it is hard to clean and get the glue to work when it is wet, so I avoid it. Poly pipe I can repair at 2 am with minimal light in less than an hour.

Squatters. If you build a shelter over your intake, you will most likely eventually run into squatters. Squatters are unwanted wildlife that can make life interesting. I have chased out a bobcat, seen cougar signs, found hornet/yellowjacket nests, and had wood rats move in. Any wildlife in your area, that might appreciate a shelter, may move in on you. You should make sure you can see inside your shelter from a distance on your normal approach. Chicken wire fencing or similar may keep out some interlopers, but shelter is shelter, and eventually you will have something move in; just be prepared.

Letter Re: Useful CERT Publications For Preppers

The article on CERT was well written and very useful. I hold a CERT certification through FEMA’s online certification process, along with a whole grocery list of courses from the same source. I did so as part of my involvement with my local amateur radio club’s efforts regarding the Amateur Radio Emergency Service unit of the club. It’s all part of being prepared for the worst while hoping for the best.

Also, in regards to your link to the article about mob mentality, I would refer you and your readers to, among other books, The Lord of the Flies and how parts of the book are applicable to the idea of mob mentality, not to mention how subgroups may turn out in the period after any major disaster that causes them to be isolated from other parts of society.

Keep up the good work with your website. I check in regularly for the good advice I find. – SRG

Letter Re: The Pachamanca: A Survivalist’s Feast

One alternative to the pachamancha pit is the “haybox cooker”. My experience involves only foods cooked with lots of liquid, but the idea is to get the food to a rolling boil, then pack it away in a well-insulated environment for six hours or so. Traditionally, people used a box filled with straw, but modern alternatives exist, typically in the form of a simple metal pot and an insulated larger pot with a tight-fitting lid. Amazon should turn up several examples under the search term “thermal cooker”.

– EQR