Odds ‘n Sods:

South St. Paul Beef Plant Temporarily Closing, 300 Jobs Affected – E.B.

It’s not just the 300 workers who will be affected either. It doesn’t take much to make the leap from “shortage of cattle” to “higher prices” at the market.

o o o

Uncomfortable Independence Day Questions – T.P.

o o o

How Fast Food Providers Beat Inflation – Add Wood Pulp To Burgers – RBS

o o o

The Facebook Manipulation Study’s Mysterious Connection to the Military – G.P.

o o o

IRS policy that targeted political groups also aimed at open source projects – At the same time, it was revealed that the NSA has targeted readers of the “Linux Journal”, a long time respected Linux periodical, calling them “extremists”.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“It took about 150 years, starting with a Bill of Rights that reserved to the states and the people all powers not explicitly delegated to the federal government, to produce a Supreme Court willing to rule that growing corn to feed to your own hogs is interstate commerce and can therefore be regulated by Congress.” – David Friedman



Notes for Thursday – July 03, 2014

Today we present another entry for Round 53 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  12. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 53 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



So You Think Starting a Garden Will Be Easy After TEOTWAWKI, by Dr. Prepper – Part 3

In Part 1 of this series, I discussed the preparation of a survival garden where grass used to be, amending the existing soil with compost, and the creation of rows or raised beds. In Part 2, I discussed the construction of an eight foot tall fence and gate with the intent of keeping out varmints. Specifically, and perhaps strangely to some readers, no mention has been made yet as to WHAT should be planted in the garden or how much and why. This is because many who are not familiar with subsistence gardening may be surprised at the true facts of growing adequate calories for consumption.

Calories Needed for Sustenance and Typical Garden Vegetables

Most typical vegetable gardeners, or those families that benefit from the labors of a vegetable gardener, immediately think of salads– nice, fresh lettuce in various flavors and textures; ripe, juicy tomatoes; crisp cucumbers; celery; and some may also think of fresh peas and green beans, too. It all sounds wonderful. In fact, nobody appreciates a nice fresh salad with all the trimmings fresh from my garden more than me. The main course frequently is an afterthought for me, but there is an unfortunate and unpleasant fact that must be addressed if ALL there is to eat is salad vegetables– YOU WILL EVENTUALLY STARVE. It is simply not possible to consistently get enough calories from salads alone.

Most experts agree that an average person needs at least 2,000 calories per day. This may not be optimal, and if you are doing heavy labor, this would certainly be much less than optimal. Let’s assume it is a starting point. So in order to ingest that many calories, you need calorie-dense foods. If there are no animal meats or fats, this leaves only a few vegetable groups that qualify. Such higher calorie choices should be high-yielding, relatively nutritious, able to be stored for the future, and self-propagating with seeds or other reliable methods of starting anew. In my opinion this leaves the following staples: dried beans, grains or corn, potatoes, and hard squashes. Those familiar with the prepper/survival mindset will immediately recognize the “three sisters” of the Native American lore– corn, beans, and squash. Potatoes are added since they are also high calorie starches that are relatively easy to plant and store well.

Now of course, no one would recommend that ONLY these vegetables be grown. All other vegetables should also be grown, in as many varieties as you can find space for, with proper planning to can and preserve as much as possible, but again, for survival purposes, you should grow these four to get enough calories in your system.

How Much of Each to Grow?

If you assume the following facts:

  • One pound of beans = ~2000 calories, one 50 foot row produces 5 pounds of dried beans.
  • One pound of corn = ~ 1800 calories, one 50 foot row produces 10 pounds of dried corn.
  • One pound of hard squash = ~ 250 calories, one 50 foot row of produces 175 pounds of squash
  • One Pound of potatoes = ~450 calories, one 50 foot row produces 75 pounds of potatoes

Divided out equally as your only diet, for an entire year, you would need the following for one person:

  • Beans – 5 fifty foot rows
  • Corn – 3 fifty foot rows
  • Squash – 8 fifty foot rows
  • Potatoes – 3 fifty foot rows

Assuming one fifty foot row is 3 feet wide with a 2 foot aisle, that comes to in total in excess of 4,000 square feet of garden (that’s a 63’ by 63’ plot) needed for growing the caloric needs of just ONE person. Start multiplying accordingly by the number of members in your family or group and you start to see the magnitude of what is needed for a true survival-type garden. It is quite possible that you may need one-half to two-thirds of an ACRE to feed yourselves. Also, to reiterate, this is based on providing a minimal diet of 2,000 calories per day, which is not a whole lot of reserve for exertion or stress, and this estimate does not allow at all for crop failure or rotation needs, so you really should plan for a larger garden.

The Good News Is …

While it may seem overwhelming, believe it or not, all of this was just to help point out your true gardening needs. If you plan to rely on a garden for sustenance, because many may not see the need of a large garden due to the erroneous notion of “It’s only the four of us”. Also, yes, we all have dealt with the overeager gardener who planted too many broccoli (or squash) plants, and then annoyed everyone by trying to give the excess away, but YOU will be planting vegetables that are able to be stored for the winter months, so there are no worries about annoying anybody with your “excess.” Once you are aware of what you need, NOW you can start planning correctly and getting it done. Believe it or not, the difference between constructing a small garden right vs. a larger one is only a matter of scale. You will need the same equipment, just run them a little longer. You will get the same seeds, just plant a few more. You will build the same type of fence, just a little larger. You will still need to water and weed, just a little longer. You may still be able to do it alone, or you can get everyone to pitch in and help. As the Nike ad goes: Just Do It.

Here are some specifics about the staples:

Corn

Corn is easily grown in most areas of the country. While everyone starts salivating at the thought of nice, fresh, sweet corn on the cob dripping in butter (and feel free to grow some of this sweet corn as well), the corn from the above example is called field, dent or flint corn. It is intended to be dried on the stalk and then harvested as dry kernels to be made into meal or flour. Get open-pollinated (OP) varieties, listed as heirloom or OP in the catalogs. As corn is pollinated by the wind through the corn silks, corn needs to be tightly spaced in the same area (i.e. no leaving empty or differently planted rows between your corn rows.) The whole kernel of field corn can be stored dry, unrefrigerated, in buckets, if you prefer, with oxygen absorbers, et cetera. It should be ground fresh as needed for flours and corn meal, as it will quickly spoil once ground.

You are not limited to corn as your only grain. If you want to try your hand at growing wheat, buckwheat, quinoa, amaranth, `or oats as replacement or additional grains, go for it. I have not tried these personally, but I have read several accounts, even on SurvivalBlog, on how best to do it. Many say they just use an available field without cultivation, but I’ve never seen it done.

Potatoes

Potatoes are rather easy to grow. You need to start with seed potatoes, which are normal potatoes that have grown “eyes” and have been cut into small pieces with at least one eye (two is better) in each piece. Let the cut pieces dry for a day or two, and then put them all in a trench in your garden row about 12 inches apart for each piece. Cover with dirt or compost and wait for the leaves to appear. Once the plant seems to be growing well above ground, you need to “hill” the potatoes vines by pushing dirt on top of the plant until only the top leaves are exposed. Keep doing this every few weeks until the vines start to die. Then dig up the potatoes! Store in a cool place, and they will keep for months. Five pounds of seed potatoes can plant one 50 foot row, which produces up to 75 pounds of potatoes.

Beans

Beans are ridiculously easy to grow. Just plant a dry bean one inch deep, water it, and wait for the plant to grow. There are many, many types of beans. Some are intended to be eaten green only, while others are to only be eaten dry and still others can be eaten both ways. There are beans that grow on bushes (hence their reference as bush beans) and vining beans that will climb poles (hence the name “pole beans”). I prefer the bush beans because there is less maintenance. For green beans, pick them when they are ripe and plump, then cook and eat them and can or freeze the extra. For dry beans, wait for the beans to dry in the pod on the plant. The pod will be crispy dry, and the beans may rattle. I pull up the whole bush, put it in a bag, and then beat and smash the bag until all the beans are separated from the pods. I then shake the contents of the whole bag slowly in front of a box fan with a large pan on the ground. The beans drop whole into the pan, while the chaff and sticks blow away into the yard. Beans may be stored dry in a bag or bucket. I usually freeze each batch for two days to kill any possible bugs that might be hiding inside before sealing in a bucket with oxygen absorbers.

Squash

Squash is another easy “set it and forget it” plant. Good types that I like are Waltham Butternut, Acorn squash, and Patty Pan squash. You want winter squash, not summer squash, like crookneck yellow squash and zucchini. You don’t plant winter squash in the winter; you harvest it when it’s ripe and then STORE them in the winter, as they grow very hard shells. They are very easy to bake in an oven, or you can peel off the rind and boil the flesh. Just plant the seeds in a hill, thin out to the best two or three plants and then wait for the squash to start growing. You can accelerate production by artificially pollinating the flowers with a small paintbrush or tooth brush for larger yields. They tend to spread out so if space is at a premium consider training them up trellises to save on ground space. Once ripe, harvest, and store carefully in a cool place.

In Conclusion

I hope I have helped some people dispel some notions of just waiting for the balloon to go up before they start preparing for growing their own food. Also, I hope a it has become quite clear that a little postage stamp yard is not going to cut it. You will need some serious real estate to grow enough food for your family, and you should consider the higher calorie foods, like corn, beans, squash, and potatoes. While this post may make growing the staples sound easy, gardening is a skill like any other that takes practice and repetition. You must allow for the mistakes that will happen so they don’t occur when you can’t afford them. Start your garden NOW, while there is still time to get the needed materials, practice the skills, and make mistakes, and you may accidentally find yourself enjoying a fulfilling activity that is healthy and practical, and find your blood pressure and weight dropping. Also, you get to eat the best, healthiest, pesticide-free, GMO-free, tastiest vegetables and fruits you ever tasted, while food availability gets more and more precarious by the day.



Letter Re: Confiscation of Stored Foods

Hi Hugh,

I really enjoy the blog. There is a lot of good info. You mentioned about losing weight during TSHTF along with everyone else. I and others in my group have bought used clothing in bigger sizes than we wear now. I have worn this clothing around people who haven’t seen me in awhile. All of them commented on how much weight I had lost. Some even asked if I had been sick. In truth, I was the same size I was before. The clothes made it appear I had dropped 20-30 pounds. Perception goes a long way. I just re-enforced their observations. “Thanks for noticing I lost weight. Yes, I was sick.” I even joked I needed to buy new clothes now. My wife said with a little makeup under my eyes people would of thought I was very sick or even dying. People jump to conclusions in a few seconds. Just make sure it’s the conclusion you want them to arrive at. Just another layer to my operational security. – J.T.





Odds ‘n Sods:

America’s version of the “Brown Shirts” and, yes, they even call themselves that. – Medical staff warned: Keep your mouths shut about illegal immigrants or face arrest. – H.L.

o o o

Security Theater, Defense Contracting Edition. Paper magazines apparently can now have real computers in them. – T.P.

Hugh Notes: I would love to get my hands on one of these to see just what it is and what its capabilities are.

o o o

FBI, CIA Use Backdoor Searches To Warrentlessly Spy On Americans’ Communications. – G.G.

o o o

Even the local government is organizing protests. Protesters in Murrieta block detainees’ buses in tense standoff . – P.M.

o o o

Doctors Should Be Trained to Determine Who is “Fit” to Carry a Gun – Katie Pavlich – B.B.



Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“Whenever the legislators endeavor to take away and destroy the property of the people, or to reduce them to slavery under arbitrary power, they put themselves into a state of war with the people, who are thereupon absolved from any further obedience.” John Locke



Notes for Wednesday – July 02, 2014

Scot Frank Erie, SurvivalBlog’s Field Gear Editor would like to know what products SurvivalBlog readers would like to see profiled. If you have an idea or a product for him, send him an email.

o o o

Today we present another entry for Round 53 of the SurvivalBlog non-fiction writing contest. The $11,000+ worth of prizes for this round include:

First Prize:

  1. A Gunsite Academy Three Day Course Certificate, good for any one, two, or three course (a $1,195 value),
  2. A course certificate from onPoint Tactical. This certificate will be for the prize winner’s choice of three-day civilian courses. (Excluding those restricted for military or government teams.) Three day onPoint courses normally cost $795,
  3. Two cases of Mountain House freeze dried assorted entrees in #10 cans, courtesy of Ready Made Resources (a $350 value),
  4. A $300 gift certificate from CJL Enterprize, for any of their military surplus gear,
  5. A 9-Tray Excalibur Food Dehydrator from Safecastle.com (a $300 value),
  6. A $300 gift certificate from Freeze Dry Guy,
  7. A $250 gift certificate from Sunflower Ammo,
  8. A roll of $10 face value in pre-1965 U.S. 90% silver quarters, courtesy of GoldAndSilverOnline.com, (currently valued at around $180 postpaid),
  9. Both VPN tunnel and DigitalSafe annual subscriptions from Privacy Abroad (a combined value of $195),
  10. KellyKettleUSA.com is donating both an AquaBrick water filtration kit and a Stainless Medium Scout Kelly Kettle Complete Kit with a combined retail value of $304,
  11. APEX Gun Parts is donating a $250 purchase credit, and
  12. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $300 gift certificate.

Second Prize:

  1. A Glock form factor SIRT laser training pistol and a SIRT AR-15/M4 Laser Training Bolt, courtesy of Next Level Training, which have a combined retail value of $589,
  2. A FloJak EarthStraw “Code Red” 100-foot well pump system (a $500 value), courtesy of FloJak.com,
  3. Acorn Supplies is donating a Deluxe Food Storage Survival Kit with a retail value of $350,
  4. The Ark Instituteis donating a non-GMO, non-hybrid vegetable seed package–enough for two families of four, seed storage materials, a CD-ROM of Geri Guidetti’s book “Build Your Ark! How to Prepare for Self Reliance in Uncertain Times”, and two bottles of Potassium Iodate– a $325 retail value,
  5. $300 worth of ammo from Patriot Firearms and Munitions. (They also offer a 10% discount for all SurvivalBlog readers with coupon code SVB10P),
  6. A $250 gift card from Emergency Essentials,
  7. Twenty Five books, of the winners choice, of any books published by PrepperPress.com (a $270 value),
  8. Two cases of meals, Ready to Eat (MREs), courtesy of CampingSurvival.com (a $180 value),
  9. Dri-Harvestfoods.com in Bozeman, Montana is providing a prize bundle with Beans, Buttermilk Powder, Montana Hard Red Wheat, Drink Mixes, and White Rice, valued at $333,
  10. TexasgiBrass.com is providing a $150 gift certificate,
  11. Organized Prepper is providing a $500 gift certificate, and
  12. RepackBoxis providing a $300 gift certificate to their site.

Third Prize:

  1. A Royal Berkey water filter, courtesy of Directive 21 (a $275 value),
  2. A large handmade clothes drying rack, a washboard, and a Homesteading for Beginners DVD, all courtesy of The Homestead Store, with a combined value of $206,
  3. Expanded sets of both washable feminine pads and liners, donated by Naturally Cozy (a $185 retail value),
  4. Two Super Survival Pack seed collections, a $150 value, courtesy of Seed for Security,
  5. A MURS Dakota Alert Base Station Kit with a retail value of $240 from JRH Enterprises,
  6. Mayflower Trading is donating a $200 gift certificate for homesteading appliances,
  7. Ambra Le Roy Medical Products in North Carolina is donating a bundle of their traditional wound care and first aid supplies, with a value of $208, and
  8. SurvivalBased.com is donating a $500 gift certificate to their store.

Round 53 ends on July 31st, so get busy writing and e-mail us your entry. Remember that there is a 1,500-word minimum, and that articles on practical “how to” skills for survival have an advantage in the judging.



So You Think Starting a Garden Will Be Easy After TEOTWAWKI, by Dr. Prepper – Part 2

In Part 1 of this series, I discussed the need to start a garden sooner rather than later, the pitfalls of starting a garden where grass has been cultivated, the creation of your gardening beds (whether rows or raised beds), and the use of composting for amending the soil. In Part 2, I will continue with discussing the structures of the garden with emphasis on fences, gates, and varmint control.

Fence Basics

Maybe you are one of those fortunate few where there are very few varmints– an undesired animal in an undesired place. (Some would ascribe the term to certain two-legged creatures as well, but I digress.) These animals may be small and unobtrusive, and maybe they don’t jump fences. In such a case, only a short, upright fence barrier of lightweight materials is necessary, just to discourage the little critters from entering your garden and going elsewhere, but for most areas of the country, varmints are a reality and can wreak havoc on a garden to the point of destroying your entire crop overnight. In a survival situation, this could mean life or death for you and your loved ones. In this case, proper fence design, installation, access, and maintenance is a necessary part of the process in designing your garden.

How tall a fence should you build? It is an indisputable fact that there are more whitetail deer in the U.S. today than there were in revolutionary times. I will spare you the ecological reasons, but the bottom line is that they exist almost everywhere, and due to restrictive hunting laws, they are used to being around human habitats without fear for the majority of the year. These deer can and will get into your garden if they are starving, just hungry, or even only curious. An adult whitetail deer can jump a six foot fence flatfooted, and in the southern U.S. the joke goes “a six foot fence is only a suggestion to a whitetail.” So at a minimum, as I believe deer to be the incarnation of rats with hooves, as far as my garden is concerned, you need an eight foot tall fence. While some deer may be able to jump such a fence while at a run, there are ways to deter this, and the eight feet height greatly deters almost all of the other varmints. Eight foot fences are the standard for most ranches trying to keep deer out (or in) and work well for most situations. It will also give pause to most two-legged varmints as well.

So what about those varmints that are small, so small they can squeeze through the holes in the fence wire? Many of these creatures, like rabbits and voles, will show up at your nicely installed fence with the expensive welded wire spans and get through the wire holes and start chomping away. What’s the solution? A second layer of woven wire with ½ – 1 inch spacing, set at the bottom of the fence, extending up to 24 inches above the ground level. Now, the varmints can’t jump over, and they can’t squeeze through (at least most can’t or won’t climb UP a wire fence to get above the small wire barrier).

Well, what if they can dig? Your fence does you no good if they can simply burrow under it, right? Not if you bury the fence wire in a trench 12 inches deep, along with the smaller woven wire panels. A rented gas trencher, such as the Ditch Witch (which is just one brand), will make quick work of this in an afternoon, or you can use an old fashioned spade, but then it takes a while. Most typical burrowing varmints will not burrow deeper than a foot to get from point A to B.

That leaves only the varmints that can fly or climb. Birds can only be controlled by preventing them from reaching the ripe veggies and fruits with bird netting. Sorry, but that’s the facts. Scarecrows and “heads-that-move-in-the-wind” owl figures are cute, but they generally get ignored after a day or two. Just get cheap bird netting in bulk and drape it over the plants or trellises. If you need to prevent a climbing varmint, like a raccoon, then your only solution is an electrified wire at about a foot off the ground, with maybe a second one two feet high, or the really big ones. A solar charger takes care of the energy needs, all at a reasonable cost.

I’m sure there are myriad posts on how to deter the varmints in other ways, such as human hair and soap for deer hanging from fence posts or trees trick, pepper and garlic sprays, teaser plots of corn just for the deer, et cetera, but a well-designed, well-constructed fence will do more to keep the varmints at bay in my opinion, and if you ever wanted to multi-purpose the garden, it would keep other animals in (like chickens.)

Fence Construction

The actual building of the fence is a book chapter in itself. Particularly if you are fencing a ranch or homestead, there are principles that apply to construction that should be adhered to, especially when corners and gates are involved and when you use barbed or high-tension (electric) wire. However, if you are not designing a fence to keep large animals IN, like cattle and horses, then you can get away with less rigid construction techniques.

My preferred garden fence is built with wooden posts for corners and gates and T-Posts on the spans. Most people should have access to 10 foot materials, although your local store may need to order them from a more rural branch in the Midwest somewhere that caters to farms and ranches. Even the more traditional home centers can get 10 foot length T-Posts, or may even carry them in stock. Check around and remember Google is your friend. For the panels, I like six foot tall woven wire with two inch holes, and ½ to 1 inch hardware cloth for the bottom section. As to the actual installation, it is not that hard; just physically demanding. You dig a two foot hole with a post hole digger or a powered augur, place the pole, brace for plumb with 2×4’s, and DO NOT fill the hole with cement for now. Drive your T-posts with spans no more than 10 feet, and install your 6 foot and 2 foot wire with the bottom edges in the 12 inch trench. Once tightened using a stretcher and a come-along, secure to the wood posts with staples and to the T-Posts with clips. NOW, fill the wooden post holes with the cement with rims above grade so the water runs off, and back fill your trench with the dirt you took out earlier and tamp it in. Like I said, it’s not hard, but it’s physically demanding labor that’s all toward an end.

By the way, there are more than several dozen YouTube videos on how to perform each one of the steps I’ve outlined. Some are professionally made. I’d definitely watch these if you are new at this.

For the top three feet of fence (remember you buried the bottom foot of your 6 foot wire in the trench), you can stretch either barbed wire or fence wire and use one wire about every foot of length. It’s pretty easy to stretch and tie off. You will also need the wire to construct stretchers in your corners. Again, look to YouTube and Google for technique.

There is, of course, a financial cost to all of this, and I will not tell you that you can or should improvise with reused pallets and the like. If it truly were TEOTWAWKI, you would do anything you could, even if suboptimal. That is why you need to get this done NOW. The cost is incurred only once, and if you coordinate with neighbors on a community garden, for instance, the cost will be spread amongst many. Try to think how you would feel to wake up one morning and your entire year’s work has been ravaged overnight because you chose to use poor quality materials on your fence.

Fence Gates

You need a way to get into and out of your garden, so you will need at least one gate. Keep in mind everything that may need to go through that gate, including wheelbarrows, lawn tractors, ATV’s, or even a truck pulling a trailer (full of compost??!) My own preference for a large garden is a single gate at each end, and a double-wide gate mid-way along the length going all the way across the garden width to a second double gate, so you could drive a vehicle through to offload supplies and equipment if necessary, or to haul away stuff, like produce (yay!) or rocks. It’s possible that a single gate may work for you, if you are looking to save cost.

The best, easiest gate to install and maintain, in my opinion, is a prefabricated galvanized chain link fence gate. These may be found in stock in heights of 72” and widths of the same. Some may be ordered as kits that adjust to your specific widths, which is handy if your gate posts are a little off their perfect design dimensions after installation. All standard home centers and others that cater to the farm and ranch communities should either have such a gate in stock or be able to easily order one for you.

Installation is as simple as getting the gate post attachments for a few dollars and screwing them into the gate posts, securing the post hooks to the gate and a latch to the other gate post, and you are done. An added bonus is the latch usually allows for a lock, so that a casual passerby cannot just walk on in, but of course a determined trespasser will not be deterred. Optionally, you can use a piece of twisted heavy wire to keep the gate from accidentally opening.

Fence Maintenance

The good news about fence maintenance, once it has been properly installed, is that it is very minimal. Posts would probably benefit from a coating of protectant every few years, either commercial if available or just some sort of oil to prevent rotting, especially on top where water may collect. The wire may become slack and tightening may be done by stretching and using stringers to keep it tight. Again check out YouTube to see it being done live. To prevent weed encroachment I have a border of gravel around the outside edge that keeps grass and weeds at bay, which also allows me to toss the small rocks I encounter each and every time I dig. (Such is life with a garden.)

So now you have learned how to start a garden, prepare the soil, build a fence, keep out varmints, and install the fence gate. What’s left is how large a garden to build, what you should plant and why, and how to maintain it, which will be detailed in Part 3 of this series.



Letter: Storage Without a Basement

Hugh,

After much prayer and house hunting, it would seem the Lord is leading me to relocate about 40 miles from where I currently live. This was never my plan, as I had intended to move much further west. My area does not have basements due to the water table. I am now having to rethink how I handle my storage. The house will be renovated to my specs and has over 2600 SF with about 10 acres. I will be having a safe room built outside the home for hurricane threats. Any suggestions will be helpful as a basement would have offered storage with automatic climate control in an off grid situation. Thanks for any advice. – MM

JWR Replies: For large houses with big bedrooms, one approach that has worked well for my consulting clients–both those who are remodeling and those doing new construction–is to build a hidden storage room for food and valuables. Typically this is done by taking two bedrooms on the same hallway and “robbing” them each of about two or three feet, and sandwiching in a narrow hidden room, between them. As long as the doors to the two original bedrooms are a good distance apart, the end result is not very noticeable. The door to the storage room can either be hidden in the back of a bedroom closet, or concealed by a bookcase in the hall.







Odds ‘n Sods:

This Family-Run Restaurant Is the Opposite of a Gun-Free Zone. – JBG

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All Employment Growth Since 2000 Went to Immigrants. – K.P.

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The Rise of the ‘Super Weed’ Around the World. – H.L.

I have to confess, the the comments made on this post never even entered my mind until I read them. About 4 years ago, I quite using glyphosate (Round Up) because I noticed that the weeds had begun to gain a resistance to it. Even the ubiquitous “goat head” (Tribulus terrestris or sometimes called “puncture vine”) had begun to adapt. I would spray it on the young plants, which would die, but not before they made a last hurrah and produced about 20 thorns. Just like any product that is over used, the resulting side effects are usually worse than the original issue.

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A followup on the Salt Lake City dog shooting: Don’t You Dare Criticize Officers For Shooting Dogs, Whines SLC Top Cop – RBS

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Video: The Mentality of the Police Cops Shoots Cow – RBS

Perhaps my being raised in the southwest (in open range territory) has jaded my view, but I’m having trouble understanding the need for the cop’s actions here. Is it any wonder that police violence is on the rise? Warning: Strong language. I’d also like to note that as a part time rancher/farmer, 20 rapid fire rounds are not necessary to dispatch a bovine antagonist, especially when it isn’t charging you. We don’t get to see the entire situation in this video, but from the looks of it, a simple rope would have sufficed to subdue the beast, and probably saved its life.