If you know how to ride a bike then raise your hand. If you didn’t raise your hand then you are either lying or don’t have hands. The truth is everyone knows how to ride a bike and everyone at some point in their lives has owned a bike. If everyone has owned a bike or at least knows how to ride one, then I must beg the question “Why is no one talking more about bikes for TEOTWAWKI type situations?” Allow me to remedy this quandary.
Possession of bicycles is highly underrated in topic general. Additionally, from the lack of information that I have seen I believe that bicycles are a highly undervalued asset when it comes to a TEOTWAWKI type situation. Many people are unable to look past the obvious use for a bicycle; to ride it from point A to point B. And although this in itself in extremely useful, there are limitations to this capability which mainly stem from human ability. The purpose of this essay is to expound upon the many hidden uses for a bicycle. After all a bike is a tool, a tangible asset, and as preppers we are good at using tools with good skills. Aren’t we?
So go get that rusty Schwinn out of the garage and let’s begin. I’m writing this essay under the assumption and premise that you, as the reader, have at least the physical ability to mount, pedal, and ride a bicycle for at least a 30 minute interval.
We can break down the use of a bike into many different categories and within each of these categories we can find different types of bikes that will best suit the needs of that category. Those categories are; bugging out, bugging in, cargo transportation, unorthodox uses, bike fitness and basic bike maintenance. There are many different kinds of bikes out there each with its own strengths and weaknesses. The four most popular types of bikes I will be discussing are; mountain bikes, road bikes, tricycles, and recumbent bikes. Let’s discuss the types of bikes first.
Types of Bikes
Mountain Bikes
A Mountain bike could be considered the most versatile of bikes when considering a TEOTWAWKI type situation. They are characterized by their big fat, thick knobby tires which are excellent for gaining traction on non-paved surfaces. Additionally, they have flat handle bars for optimal control for ideal maneuvering and navigating tight turns. Most often they will have a front suspension system to soften bumps and do come with a rear suspension variety as well. Finally, mechanical and hydraulic disc brakes are the most common braking method. Mountain bikes can also be broken down into three main categories as well; cross country (XC), all mountain (AM), and downhill (DH).
Cross country bikes are light and fast and are going to be the best pick for TEOTWAWKI (if you live where terrain is a bit rougher, then go with an all mountain bike, but stay away from downhill bikes if you have to do any pedaling at all, they are meant ridden downhill and chair-lifted uphill). They are meant to traverse rough terrain, but not as rough as all mountain and downhill bikes. Higher end models can be typically found with extremely light carbon fiber components or even the frame can be made of carbon. But in a TEOTWAWKI situation we want to stay away from carbon fiber and aluminum components. We want steel. There is a saying in the mountain bike community, “Steel is Real”. And for good reason. It is tough, durable and springy. Aluminum and carbon fiber components are difficult to replace and repair and can be more costly. Steel is heavier, but we aren’t trying to trim weight to win a race, we are trying to survive. If you can’t get steel, aluminum is fine, you just have to take better care of your bike.
When looking to purchase a mountain bike shoot for mid range pricing $300-$600. Bikes in this range are of good quality and have components that are durable, but not made of the feather light, highly breakable stuff. Do not go to box store to purchase a bike (i.e. Wal-Mart, Target, etc.). These bikes are built with poor quality materials under the philosophy of “planned obsolescence.” In other words, they are designed to break after a short time. A few good suggestions are; Giant Boulder, Trek Police Series, and Specialized Hardrock.
Two final notes on mountain bikes. Mountain bike come in three different wheel sizes. 26 inch, 650B and 29 inch wheels. The most common size is the 26 inch and would be the easiest size to find repair parts for. Also, mountain bike tires can be fitted with special “slick” tires that offer less rolling-resistance on pavement. This gives them an additional use in an urban environment.
Road Bikes
Speed is the name of the game with road bikes. If you have to get from point A to point B fast and there is pavement between point A and point B, then road bikes are your weapon of choice. Road bikes are super light weight and are characterized by their thin, smooth tires (which have less rolling resistance on a road), curved handle bars and rim brakes. Road bikes also have a higher gear ratio that mountain bikes. That means that every time you push down on the pedal the back wheel spins around more times. You get less torque, but higher RPMs for your pedal stroke. This translates into a higher top speed on the road but a lower rate of acceleration. You could possible take road bikes onto hard pack dirt, but it is not recommended that you ride them anything more extreme than this.
Road bikes are best suited for city environments with off-road conditions are almost non-existent. They are more physically demanding to ride due to the more hunched over position they put the rider in. I would recommend that if you are not capable of putting your body into this position for long periods of time that you look at getting a recreational/commuter, which blends many of the elements of comfort of a mountain bike with the speed elements of a road bike.
Road bikes also have their many varieties as well. You can find them in competition race bikes, time trial bikes, track bikes, or recreational/commuter. The best pick for a road bike would be a recreational/commuter type bike as this will have the most versatile of uses. It will not have as fast of a top speed as the other bikes, nor will it be as light. It will however be durable enough to withstand daily use and will make traversing pavement easier and more efficient than using a mountain bike.
When buying a road bike consider the guidelines above for buying a mountain bike to be just as valid. A few suggestions for a pure road bike are; Specialized Dolce, Giant Defy, Trek 1.1 Series. If you require recreational/commuter then consider these models; Trek Soho S, Specialized Vita Sport, or Giant Via.
Recumbent Bikes
Recumbent bikes can be considered the ultimate recreational bicycle. They come in three main varieties, 2 wheel (least stable), tricycle and quad (most stable). The unique hallmark of recumbent bikes is that you sit reclined on the bike in a seat, not on top of it in a saddle. The advantage to this is that you get more bang for your buck per pedal stroke. Each stroke is a highly efficient use of calories when translated to raw power. The disadvantage of this is that you are limited mainly to paved surfaces and possibly dirt roads.
The is another big disadvantage to recumbent bikes is that they have more parts. More parts equal more chances for something to go wrong and break. Some of these parts are very specialized too, meaning you will have a harder time replacing them. Recumbent bikes are also much more expensive than their road and mountain counterparts. This is due to the fact that they take more labor to make and have more moving parts. Expect to pay as much as 10-15% more for a comparable road or mountain bike.
Recumbent bikes have their advantages too! Recumbent bikes have excellent capacity for towing. If you can attach a light weight bike trailer to a recumbent bike then you have the capacity to tow and carry large amounts of good and supplies over a long distance without tiring as quickly compared to a mountain or road bike.
Categories of Use
Bugging Out
Utilizing a bike for the purposes of bugging out can be either a very smart move, or a very costly mistake. The duality exists under this simple observations. Bikes are faster than walking, but slower and more vulnerable than motor vehicles. Let me elaborate. Cycling can get you from point A to point B at almost triple or quadruple the speed compared to traveling on foot, but there are some major drawbacks. First, you will need to carry with you every tool and replacement part needed to repair your bike on your back. Secondly, unless you have a towing trailer, your ability to carry large amounts of weight is extremely limited. There are options for bike panniers that can be used to carry more weight, but this combined with a bug out bag or 72-hour kit will make your every top heavy on the bike thereby reducing your ability to maneuver. Additional weight will also reduce your ability to climb hills on a bike.
The best use for bugging out with a bike would be a scenario similar to this one. First, it would be advantageous if you were solo or only had 1 dependent. Organizing an exodus on bikes for multiple riders on the fly would be difficult to coordinate at best. Secondly, it is recommended that your point of destination be already predetermined to meet up with a group of people that you can gain secondary support from. Don’t expect to be able to carry enough supplies on a bike for a SHTF scenario unless you have a tow trailer.
Your destination should be no more than two days away from your starting point and your path of travel should be in the least populated area as possible. You should ideally live on an urban edge where you can get away from populated areas and avoid being seen as much as possible. On a bike you are a very easy target. You are easy to knock over and highly unprotected.
Ultimately, I do not recommend bugging out on a bike unless it is absolutely necessary. The truth of the matter is that you would have to use your best judgment depending on your situation and location and path of travel to your destination. I would, however, recommend as my bike of preference a mountain bike outfitted with hybrid tires. These are tires that are designed to function both on road and rough terrain conditions.
Bugging In
A bike can be an extremely valuable tool in bugging in situations. In addition to the obvious uses there are many unorthodox uses for a bike, as I will explain below. But for now let’s look at some of the practical uses for a bugging in situation. A bike comes into its own within a community. If, as a prepper, you are becoming active and developing a community type attitude (as you should), then a bicycle will be a boon to this community. Depending on the size of the community a bike will allow an individual to travel to various parts of that community with less effort and energy expenditure compared to walking. Additionally, the use of a bike can be relegated to the tasks that are not important enough to demand the use of burning fuel to operate a motor vehicle such as running errands and transporting small items.
What we begin to see here is a variety of living scenarios in which a bike is applicable for bugging in. In an urban environment, a bike flourishes. City dwellers can get to close locations very quickly on a road bike. In a sub-urban environment community leaders can get from house to house quickly in order to pass on news or respond to emergencies. In a rural situation those long 2, 3 and 4 mile commutes to the nearest neighbor can be cut in half when compared to traveling on foot. In a bugging in situation a bike can actually reinforce the closeness of a community because of its to save fuel and help people travel quicker than walking.
Cargo Transportation
A bike can find usefulness is transporting cargo, but it take a somewhat dedicated use of a bike. There are limitations to how much a person can transport and that depends on many factors; the fitness level of the rider, the weight of cargo in question, the size of the cargo in question, the type of bike being used, terrain, etc. For example, one person of average fitness with a mountain bike fitted with panniers might only be able to transport 20-30 pounds for a distance of 5 miles. Another person of high fitness on a road bike towing a cargo trailer might be able to transport 60-70 pounds over a distance of 10 miles with no issues.
Once again, discretion is required. If you live on a relatively flat location a tricycle with a cargo basket may be perfect fit for you and your fitness level. If you life in a highly paved area but require long distances then maybe a road bike with panniers is your best option. If you live in the mountains then using a bike for cargo transportation may not even be a good option at all. Bike are not best for all situations and you will have to use your head to figure this out.
Bike Fitness
Bike fitness can be an excellent boon to your overall fitness regimen. If you are already running, lifting weights, swimming, or doing other forms of cardio and weight resistance, cycling can round you out overall. Remember, as preppers we should not be specialized. We must be able to adapt physically and a well rounded individual has a higher chance of survival.
If you plan on riding a bike for long distances then your lungs are going to get tired, your legs are going to get tired, your back is going to get tired, and your buttocks are going to get tired. The only way to remedy these problems is to build up endurance. Get on a bike and ride. From personal experience if you are starting out riding a bike, a 45 minute ride can be torture on the rear end (especially if you have a streamlined saddle, and not a comfort saddle and ride on rough terrain). However, one 45 minute ride once a week can be enough to toughen up your derriere to a point that a 45 minute ride is no big deal. Make this ride a low intensity ride where you are basically spinning the pedals will low resistance.
In order to increase the strength in your legs and lungs you are going to need to add at least one more ride into your regimen per week. Additionally, this ride is going to need to be of higher intensity. Try to find a route that incorporates more hills and climbs than your first ride per week. This will challenge your legs and lungs. Try to make this a sustained ride for at least 45 minutes with a high level of resistance.
By combining two rides per week of different intensities one will challenge your body while the other will allow your body to fall into an “active recovery”. This is when your muscles rebuild themselves. The higher intensity ride will challenge your muscles and lungs. During days of non riding try to cross train with other forms of exercise so that you are balancing out your exercise routines. Above all, try not to get caught up in tracking your heart rate, power (wattage), etc. that high level athletes try to monitor unless you really want to engage in a higher level of bike intensity. At that point you are becoming specialized, and, you probably have bike racing goals. Keep it simple!
One last thing. Bike fitness can be augmented by purchasing a cheap bike trainer. What this is, is a device that attaches to the rear wheel of your mountain or road bike. It lifts the wheel off the ground and applies resistance. That way if there is ever bad weather outside or you don’t have time to get ready for an outside ride, you can just hop on the trainer and get your spinning done. Most inexpensive trainers run around $100. The cost a bike trainer plus a decent road or mountain bike can cost as much as a stationary trainer that you can buy at Wal-Mart or Academy, but you can always take the bike of your trainer and head outside. Plus the trainer acts as a tool for unorthodox uses.
Unorthodox Uses
Now for some fun speculation and creativity. A bicycle is a human powered machine that focuses on rotational power. When we begin to think about this, what sort of devices that we use every day capitalize on rotational power? Drills, saws, grinders, blenders, wheat mills, electricity dynamos, pumps, mulchers, etc. There are many possibilities. Is it possible to use our bikes to power these devices? With a little ingenuity it is! Here is how.
You will need to have a bike trainer for your bike. This will allow you to work on your fitness but also allow your bike to be converted to a powering device. By lifting your bike off the ground and removing the rear tread and tube, you can attach a belt to the rear wheel that can be attached to any rotational device with a bit of modification. Take a look at these examples below:
A pedal powered hacksaw. Pedal powered kitchen accessories. Pedal powered water pump. Pedal powered jig-saw. Pedal powered water filtration. Pedal powered washing machine. Pedal powered AC inverter. Pedal powered generator.
The possibilities for unorthodox uses are endless and are only limited to your imagination.
Bike Maintenance
Maintaining your bike is going to be crucial if you want your bike to last. Here are some guidelines to help you keep your bike in good working condition.
First, let’s understand your bike’s consumable components. The first of these will be bike tubes. Stocking up on bike tubs might not be the best use of one’s money considering this is a permanent option. Head over to Wal-Mart and pick up a solid rubber bike tube. Granted, these are more expensive than regular tubes, but you will never need to replace a bike tube. Additionally, you won’t need to worry about having a pump of any kind.
Another consumable will be your bike tires. If you are going to be riding your bike on a consistent basis then having extra bike tires around will be a good idea. The rubber meets the road here, so to speak, and these will wear out quicker than any other component. Also, understand your terrain and stock the appropriate kind of bike tire. If you are on paved surfaces then keep road tires around. If you are near trails then keep mountain tires around.
Your chain is going to be the next component that will wear out quickly and/or break. Keep a few extra chains around along with chain links. Don’t forget to get a small chain tool to allow you to attach and remove damaged chains.
Cables and housings for your brakes and derailleurs are good to have around as well. These will not wear out as quickly as the aforementioned components but keep 1 or 2 spares around for each brake and derailleur.
Lubrication! Your bike is going to need to be lubricated just like any other machine. The best lubrications are dry-Teflon type lubricants for your chains and exterior bike components.
Engine grease is the perfect lubrication for wheel axles and bottom brackets.
Your bike is going to need to be cleaned once or twice a month if you ride it on a regular basis. If you have a mountain bike that you actually ride on trails then you should consider giving a good cleaning once a month and a wipe-down once a week. This keeps dust and debris to a minimum which can damage the paint and then frame of your bike. If paint on your frame gets chips in it then there is the potential for corrosion to set in.
Finally, if you are serious about taking care of your own equipment, I highly recommend that you purchase one of these two books, or both; Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, and Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. These two books are a boon to anyone who wants to keep their bike in tip top shape and will cover way more information than what I have time to cover in this essay.
On the Go and Home Base Toolkits
On the Go Kit:
Having an on the go toolkit is essential and there are some essential items that belong in it. Think of this as your EDC kit for your bike. Here is what I would include:
1) A mini pump if your tires have tubes. (Also include at least 1 spare tube along with patches to help fix flats.)
2) Handy, but nonessential, are small CO2 cartridges with a bike valve adapter. These make for quick inflation if you are in a hurry.
3) A Gerber-type multi-tool.
4) A small metric allen wrench set.
5) Chain tool with spare chain or links of chain.
6) About 10 zip ties.
7) 1 set of spare brake and derailleur cables and housings (many uses that for just fixing your cables). You will want to make sure that the housings are pre-cut to the length needed. These cannot be cut with a regular knife. So cut these before hand and then include them in your kit.
8) A small bottle of chain lube.
All of these items can fit in a medium size bike bag that you can find at most box store and almost all bike shops.
Home Base Toolkit: You home base toolkit should include tools that would allow you to conduct almost any repair on your bike. An excellent starter toolkit is the Park Tool Advanced Mechanic Tool Kit (or similar). This has almost all of the tools required for any basic repair on a bicycle. It has tools to help fix everything from broken wheel spokes to removing the bottom bracket from a bike.
You should also supplement this kit with these items:
1) Repair stand. Not essential, but makes repairs much easier to conduct.
2) Plenty of spare grease and chain lube.
3) A good shop floor pump if you have tubes.
4) Spare chains.
5) At least 1 spare front and rear wheel.
6) At least 1 set of spare disc brake discs or 2-3 sets of rim brake pads.
7) Extra sets of handle bar grips or grip tape.
9) Lots of wheel spokes! These will break a whole lot, especially in mountain bikes that see trail use.
10) A wheel truing stand. Not essential, but makes truing wheels easier.
[JWR Adds: By adding some spare parts and scrounging a heap of discarded bikes to cannibalize for parts (yes, they can be bought in heaps here in the U.S., and they are least expensive that way), the foregoing list will set you up with post-collapse home-based business.]
In general, as with all prepping, having extra bike parts will benefit you very much. About 75% of the parts on a bike will render it useless (or difficult to operate) if they break.
Conclusion
I hope that everyone can understand that there is a place for bikes in a SHTF type situation. They can be used to transport messages across the mountains between small bands of militia defending themselves against a UN invading force, they can simple help a person get out of Dodge, or they can charge a battery.