Email a copy of 'Building the Castle - Part 1, by Jake R.' to a friend
Loading ...E-Mail 'Building the Castle - Part 1, by Jake R.' To A Friend
Loading ... Loading ...22 Comments
- Ad Follow the Author Don Shift Basic SHTF Radio: A cop's brief guide for understanding simple solutions for SHTF radio communicationIntimidated and don’t know where to start with radio? This book is the perfect guide to what options you have i.e. GMRS, CB, to ham and basic communication topics.
- Ad L3 UNFILMED WHITE PHOSPHOR COMMERCIAL GRADE NIGHT VISION PACKAGEHuge Savings $400 off normal cost!
Looking forward to the rest of the article… great subject!
Regarding siding choices- Cementous siding is a great option as it is fire resistant and easy to install. It is more stable than wood siding, so it holds paint better. It also doesn’t rattle in the wind like vinyl siding can do at times.
With a slab foundation, consider running heating tubing in the slab when pouring in order to later add a low-cost wood fired or solar water heating system to it.
Keep in mind when considering a slab foundation that a footer is still required at any load bearing walls. Whether trench footer, block, thickened slab, ICFs, or other; a footer is required for structural assemblies. The slab itself is a floor not a foundation. It’s also a good idea to add a vapor barrier and rigid insulation under the slab before pouring.
As a builder who is interested in harder homes and gardens I’m interested in part 2… However I’m disappointed so far.
Feel free to write your own…as a builder, I am sure you would have some great advice. JWR indicated there was a shortage of submissions, so have at it.
YES YES YES! I would love to see more input on this topic from those who have knowledge on this topic. Let the information flow. We would all benefit.
Lots of good points to consider when building your castle. We chose a full daylight basement due to the lay of our property and made the walls of foam block cement forms. We are in an area where fire is a concern so we did a metal roof and Hardie cement siding.
There are so many things to consider when building,take your time in the planning stages. Cost is always an issue , but so are the end results as well and you will have your home a long time .
I was disappointed to not see cement block as a wall choice. I prefer it due to potential for high winds where I live. Also would have liked to see comments regarding radiation penetration of different materials.
Cinderblock with mortar\ sand\ cement mix with stucco exterior provides a very nice wall.
Your plumbing on a fixed slab can be accessed by the the use of a chase which is essentially a trench that is incorporated into the floor itself. A chase is usually 2-3 ft wide to allow a slender plumber to access pipes for repair. The use of a chase is fairly standard in multi-storied structures, apartments etc. The structure is designed to accomadate the use of a chase. Masonry block called CMUs in the trade bear loads very well. I can vouch for a 12 inch concrete block structure that is reinforced with i/2 inch rebar and poured concrete every 2 ft. and at corners. Pilasters projecting 8 inches every 8 ft and filled wit concrete make for an awesome structure. This of course calls for a stout footing and this will add to your cost. Cut down on that by doing the footer yourself, that is within the skill set of most people who can read and write. Hire a good bricklayer who doesn’t drink to build your corners and then fill in the rest yourself. By the time you are finished you should be qualified as an apprentice mason at the very least. Now ask yourself which will bear up best in an area with a lot of seismic activity. My nod there goes to concrete well reinforced. I worked in masonry and concrete for 30 some years, so i know enough to get you into trouble. i know how to get out of trouble as well.
In earthquake zones “pour-in-place” is a great substitute for c.m.u. even if it’s only a half height of the wall set up. If proper hardware and techniques are used it is insanely durable. It also provides for a completely seamless and re-enforced footer slab wall section. Depending on thickness of wall 5\8 would be best rebar to choose from. Also using a “water barrier” type coating would improve the longevity of the cement (best to use a one step product rather than the two step with cloth ones for exterior)
Also it should be noted to never skip or skrimp on the hardware (think Simpson products) if your goal is long term integrity.
On the slab foundation being the floor of the house, I guess the writer has not spent a lot of time on slab style floors. If you don’t have it yet get ready for Plantar Fasciitis. Also slab floors are colder in the winter. I am speaking from experience.
Thank you J.m.z.b.
5/8″ rebar is of course much better than 1/2″. That is what I used some 10 years ago when I built my house and I had forgotten that. By the way with a poured in place structure you will have the added expense of forms. A newer product that I have seen is a series of styrofoam forms that interlock and contain hangers to suspend 2 runs of rebar throughout the wall. An added bonus is the styrofoam ( at least on the exterior side)) can be left in place and stuccoed or sealed and will thus boost your R-factor. I can attest to the fact that a masonry structure is quieter than a conventional house. Also masonry besides adding strength can provide a good heat sink if you decide to go with passive solar. Lastly I forgot to mention that poured in place concrete wall WILL provide an adequate ballistic barrier (within reason) Some things to think on.
Iraude,
Funny you should mention that. I have had Plantar Faciitis. Never considered what caused it for a moment. Slab floors are cold and do take a while to come up to a comfortable temp. Radiant hydronic heating (pex pipe within the slab) can overcome this and is an economical alternative.
Although a basement might be more expensive than other foundation methods in the long run it is very cost effective. Most municipalities do NOT tax the square footage of the basement (there are some exceptions) so it becomes very cheap and accessible storage space. Imagine how much you would pay to rent the same square footage. It provides a very good protection factor against radiation as well.
Jake ,,,,something to think about ,, as we get older a fall on a slab can be a life changer. A post and beam with a suspended wood floor is much better for us older folks.
A metal roof with a hole is easy fixed with a short patch piece ,
Again Hardie siding is fire proof , you might have to renail it but if anything will hold a fire it will ,and it will slow up a bullet from most hand guns ,and bugs will leave it alone
All of the above is personal experience,
Concrete foundations do in fact move as the author has suggested. He explained that moisture changes in the soil causes movement which is correct. However different types of soil is more or less affected by moisture changes. A sandy loam tends to be more stable while a dense gummy clay will move when it gets dry and then wet. When clay gets wet it swells and when it gets dry it shrinks. That is what causes a foundation to move. If you are going to build on pure clay there are several things you can do which MAY save you problems years down the line. One thing you can do is build a dirt pad out of a proper type of dirt that tends to be stable. In my area ( Central Oklahoma ) we call that type of dirt RED SELECT and it is basically speaking a blend of clay and sand. The clay element allows for a good compaction and the sand element resists movement with moisture changes. This type of dirt tends to be stable and is the choice dirt for building pads. When building a dirt pad it is important to make sure the dirt isn’t too wet or too dry and of course try to get a good compaction.
Another thing to consider is to make sure the bottom of your foundation is lower than your local freeze line. In my area it never freezes below ten inches but the standard depth of foundation is 18″. I agree with that depth for two reasons: at 18″ the soil tends to be more “moisture stable” than it would be at ten inches and the other reason that an 18″ depth foundation is good is because a full 18″ inch depth is strong and will hold up to different destructive variables. There’s much more to consider including reinforcement ( HARDWARE is not the correct terminology ), proper slump and concrete breaking strength but the few things I’ve mentioned are a good start when thinking about your foundation.
One thing is for sure and that is concrete construction is done differently as you go from state to state. Different construction techniques are used depending on where you live in this nation and what I have just explained does work well in my part of the country but would probably never work in Alaska.
I am guessing that is why many or most houses in OK do not have a basement?
I always thought that to be odd considering it is in the middle of tornado alley.
I am in Southern Kansas and would never suggest buying a house without a basement.
The freeze depth is only 18″ for Oklahoma? It is 31″ for Kansas.
I’ve lived in Oklahoma for 63 years and grew up in the concrete business and I am still involved in the foundation end of it today and I’ve never figured out why almost no one builds basements here but they don’t. About the only time you will find a house with a basement is if you go to an old neighborhood that was built in the twenties or thirties and then you will find that those builders realized the advantages of a house with a basement.
As far as the freeze line goes, 18″ is standard foundation depth but I’ve only seen it freeze 12″in depth in all my life and I have been digging forever. In a related note, it seems that we no longer have winters here; at least not like the winters we had growing up 50 years ago. Probably just a normal earth weather cycle.
Jake, Thank you for a broad approach to a very complex subject. Hopefully you have opened a floodgate. I am a builder in northern Florida but have built in California and extensively in Colorado and now in Florida. From this experience I realize how incredibly conditions and techniques vary in different regions. This is extremely important.
I think we all agree it would be tremendous if skilled builders and designers could post on this subject. The more from diverse areas of the country and even the world would be most beneficial.
Before you even consider sticking a shovel in the ground do go down to your local county extension office and ask for a soil survey map from the USDA. These maps are usually free for the asking and besides aerial maps of your county the maps profile the soil types, where they are, and what you can do with them, plant on them and build on them. You will not only familiarize yourself with the soils but also soil structures and compositions. I did this on the property I live on nearly 40 years ago. It helped me to determine where to build, how the soil would drain (important for septic systems and ground water tables).
I learned all this from a friend who was an agronomy major. It served me in good stead over the years.
Several years ago I ran across a gentleman who was building his own castle. I have found his website to be both informative and entertaining over the years and look forward to many more years of enjoyment from it. Here it is. http://www.dupontcastle.com
As a retired architect who worked in several states over the course of my career, from Florida, Virginia, NY and NJ to Texas and Colorado, I can attest to the truth of Wood Tamer’s comment re: the diversity of building conditions and methods in all the various regions of the country. Differences come about due to environmental conditions and available building materials, and they change over time as technology and tastes change.
In South Florida, wood is an expensive commodity because it must all be shipped in from other states. However, the various materials needed for Concrete Masonry Units (CMUs), cement, aggregate and mortar are economical and found locally, and the ground is fairly stable since most of the state is a huge, ancient coral reef – well, aside from the sinkholes that open up unexpectedly, that Is. Therefore, houses are built on slabs on grade and walls are CBS construction – Concrete Block and Stucco, Concrete Block being the imprecise term for CMUs. Interior walls are built using steel studs and drywall. Roofs are typically at a shallow slope and might be covered with asphalt shingles, metal sheeting or terra cotta barrel tiles or flat concrete tiles. All these materials have been shown to hold up relatively well to a moderate strength hurricane, except for the asphalt shingles which are a fairly new phenomenon down there. In fact, since the building codes were changed after Hurricane Andrew in the 1980s, I am not sure if they are even permitted anymore since I left there prior to that.
Red brick has always been a common building material in central Virginia because the red clay needed to make it is everywhere. That is why Thomas Jefferson used it at Monticello and UVa.
In Texas, a soil survey is very helpful prior to deciding what kind of foundation to use since the soils in and around the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex have some of the most extreme swelling and shrinkage rates of anywhere in North America. Pier and Beam foundations are quite common as a way to prevent foundation troubles over the life of a building there. The beams might support a slab or a traditional wood floor, but the piers and beams are doing the real work of supporting the structure. Face brick over stud and gypsum board walls with building wrap (Tyvek or similar) is common on the more expensive houses because experienced brick masons are easy to find and economical to hire. Asphalt shingle roofs become problematic due to high winds and hail storms but they get used alot anyway.
BTW, the soil survey information for Texas is available for free online. I don’t remember the website anymore but I found it several years ago just by Googling a bunch. You can also find info online re: what trees will grow in what parts of Texas and in what soil types.
In Colorado, wood is readily available, including logs, although not necessarily cheaply. And, if you are up in the hills or mountains, there is a good chance you are building on granite bedrock, so basements are usually walk-outs if you have one at all. Otherwise, you can be pretty sure you will have a crawl space. If you are in town along the Front Range (Denver, Fort Collins, Colorado Springs and the built up areas between) you are more likely to find walk out basements than up in the mountains, and less likely to find log cabins. Metal roofs are becoming more common in the mountains as people are realizing how nicely snow slides off them and that they are not flammable. In Boulder County, cedar shake shingle roofs were banned 20 or so years ago. No new ones were allowed and old ones had to be replaced with a non-flammable roof by a certain date. Nearly 10 years ago, a wildfire west of town moved to the outskirts of town, at which point people realized that law was a good idea after all. What really bothers me is that, in order to get a building permit you need a zoning permit (that’s logical) and in order to get a zoning permit, you need a sign off from the Forestry Dept. That’s not too bad either. But where it gets aggravating is that the Forestry Dept will tell you to remove all flammable materials within 50′ of your structure. You bought a nice piece of property in the mountains with trees for shade and as a wind break but the Forestry Dept then tells you to cut them down if they are anywhere close to your house. But they think it is quite all right to then build your house with lots of flammable materials like pine logs, cedar siding, asphalt shingles (asphalt is a petroleum-based product and, although shingles don’t have a lot of asphalt in them anymore, I don’t think a wildfire cares). Nobody in the bureaucracy makes any suggestions about building with concrete or CMUs or even using Hardie Plank for siding instead of cedar or vinyl. they just want you to cut down your trees and not plant anything, including grass, ground cover or flowers, within 50′ of your house. So, instead you can pave, put down gravel or worry about erosion. Great! And then, our County government started making noises about taxing homeowners based on the amount of impermeable surface on your property because of problems in town with rain runoff into the storm drainage system. We were up in the mountains. We didn’t have ditches, let alone a storm drainage system, but paving the driveway, finally, made snow removal much easier and we didn’t break nearly as many shear pins afterwards.
In the Northeast (NY & NJ), since houses have been built there for over 200 years now, there isn’t much that can be considered “typical” anymore. There are houses built of stone, brick, wood, face brick and face stone over wood stud walls, balloon framing as well as platform framed houses. There are even some timber framed buildings scattered around. There are so many possible building methods to use and to find in existing structures up there, I can’t speak about it with any authority. Also, I was involved in mostly commercial projects up there, not too much in the way of new residential construction. However, from personal observation, I think that you are more likely to find basements up there than not.
Now that I am working with a younger architect to draw up plans for my own house at our rural property, I am looking at using ICFs (insulated concrete forms) and poured concrete for the basement, foundation and all exterior and bearing walls. The advantages include being fireproof, termite and rodent proof, fairly good ballistic protection depending on how you place and treat fenestration (window openings), an R-value of R-50 or better, ease of installing conduits and plumbing on the interior, ease of installing stucco on the exterior and it makes the entire house a tornado shelter. What’s not to love? It might be more expensive at the outset but I figure the heating and cooling savings will help to make up for that and, if/when the Schumer hits the fan, we will be able to bug in pretty effectively. Of course, a lot of that depends on the design/layout of the house but that is being planned for from the beginning, including a full basement with a root cellar accessed from the basement, flat roofs strong enough to hold some raised beds for growing veggies, a rooftop greenhouse, shatter-resistant coatings on all windows, roll-up hurricane shutters on the openings around the back patio area, rainwater harvesting built into the gutter system along the eaves, a built-in generator and a battery storage area for a solar power system, a safe room/vault in the basement with a hidden entrance and a second kitchen in the basement with a wood burning cook stove centrally located to heat the basement “just in case.” Also, the landscaping around the house is being planned with defense and sight lines in mind and includes a high garden wall to protect some edible gardens off the back patio. It won’t look like a castle but it will be a citadel.
Overall, it is very difficult to generalize when discussing residential construction in the US. We have an incredibly diverse country in terms of climate, weather, terrain, available materials and needs to be met. I appreciate Jake R’s attempt to simplify it and put it all into an article that can be understood by a layman. I am looking forward to reading Part 2 as I binge read and try to get caught up on SB. I am still a few weeks behind but there are so many projects to complete during the daylight hours and new ones keep popping up. Arrgghhh!