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15 Comments

  1. Primers are not loud enough. Take a 12ga shot gun shell, cut it with your pocket knife and let the BB’s falls out. Nail the device to a tree etc pointed down so as to protect a child etc.

  2. Lance,

    You’re correct that primers won’t be nearly as loud as a shotshell with a full load of powder. One of the points I make later in this article is that you should have layers of security detection, so while a fully-loaded shell would be your best choice for an alert that’s quite distance away, a primer may be appropriate for something that’s a lot closer.

  3. Security will be job one. Everything else supports that objective. Manpower for most will greatly lacking. Every trick, hack, or tactic in this article should be considered. If we dont’ see’em, hear’em or smell’em coming, then it is over before it starts. You loose.

    I wish I had time, perhaps this winter. Organizing with you community is the best defense for those without their own. Defend at a distance, not at the mail box. Don’t let them into the area in the first place, then potential intruders will be reduced to mostly neighbors, and lowers the threat from outside.

    One of the best plug and play force multipliers is the Murs Dakota Alert Sensor. We all should know about those by now, if not, please see a video on it. Although only 1/2 watt transmitter and a limited range, external antennas can greatly improve the distance at which these can be deployed. I make my own, but I cannot beat this. The least expensive and most effective antenna external antenna for these:

    http://www.n9tax.com/Slim%20Jim%20Info.html

    Request a cable length of at least 15 feet or more, specify the cable end, and the frequency it should be tuned for. In this case, a good center frequency should be 153.500Mhz.

    Hoist the antenna has a high as possible and the range could be improved as much as 3 times as the terrain permits. I’ve reliable results out to 6 miles in ideal terrain. Place them along the road as far away as possible in pairs separated by 50 to 100 hundred yards. Used in pairs we now have ‘gates’ that allow the user to determine, direction of travel, number of vehicles, and speed of their approach. It also provides redundancy. Do not rely on any electronic device entirely. Rain cause the sensor to become somewhat unreliable, and can produce false alarms, or no alarm.
    That another is using pairs is the best way to deploy. Higher voltages into it improves the range and reliability in the cold and wet, yet that sort of alteration is not available to all.

    Of course this sort of thing is not appropriate during normal times, or in all locations. How useful is this? For instance if one has a dirt road 1 mile long and the maximum safe speed is say 35 mph, then the vehicle may need 6 minutes to arrive at your location. 6 minutes is a lot of time when you are in a hurry. If one can hear the sensor from 2 miles away, then the likely time of arrival could be 12 minutes. Set this up now if possible and learn to listen and interpret the traffic coming and going. It is surprising how effective this can be. If on a spur off the main dirt road, placing a sensor at the point of intersection also makes sense.

  4. Tunnel Rabbit,

    Thanks for the great comments! I cover some of what you’re referring to later on in the article, but you provided some good details that I wasn’t able to include.

    1. Had to quit work and come in. To remove any confusion for those not into radio, here the link to the antenna and cable combination mention in the previous post about MURS Dakota Alert Sensors. for the best results, this roll up type of Slim Jim is easy to hang with a light weight made of a non metallic material, or use cordage to create light tension, so that it is strung to it’s design length. Attempt to space the antenna way from the tree or pole at least 19″, and on the side facing the receiving antenna. It is not difficult to do.

      http://www.2wayelectronix.com/Dual-band-MURS-GMRS-Slim-Jim-Antenna-with-16-or-10-rg-58-DUAL-MU-GM-16.htm

      This antenna has a broad bandwidth of at least 8Mhz on the VHF side and should cover the Business band, Public Service and Marine Band as well. Ask the manufacturer. The UHF is good for GMRS, and has the narrow band with of only 4 Mhz. Ask if it will cover the UHF business band.

      Verify what type of connect is on your sensor. Older models use the BNC type, so select the BNC Male option. The recent production use SMA connectors. I cannot at the moment verify which, so talk to the vendor, or research it. These take either the SMA Male, or the SMA Female. These antenna also work well with standard radios, mobiles, or handhelds. Adapters are available on the site. The Baofeng UV5R takes a SMA Female. Mobiles typically use PL259 cable ends. An SO239 (aka. UHF) to SMA Female adapter for the Baofeng UV5R, allow this and other antennas to be attached to the Baofeng UV5R. Transmitting on a Baofeng on a homemade copper Slim Jim on 70cm, I could hit the Blue Mountain repeater 80 miles away with ‘full quieting’ with only 4 watts. The slim jim is a good antenna for many applications, but not all. It is great for scanners, but somewhat deaf in some cases.

      For those wishing to mount an antenna on a roof top this is far better. These are what I make and have tested over the years.:

      For MURS:

      https://www.jpole-antenna.com/shop/vhf-public-safety-murs-marine-scanner-slim-jim-antenna/

      Cable into the house should have PL259 ends sold separately. Use the UHF to SMA Female for Baofengs.

    2. Re: Antennas for MURS Dakota Alert Sensor

      I almost forgot. To increase the range of the sensor, the first and least expensive method is to install an external receiving antenna. I would get the copper pipe version for this purpose. For OPSEC, I would not transmit on this antenna because it would greatly increase the range at which I could heard, unless there was no other way to establish reliable communications. We want to limit the range, by using the lowest power or ‘smallest’ antenna we have to avoid detection, yet effect solid comms. However, we want to hear as well as we possibly can, and that means using an external antenna. We could therefore hear each other better, and yet limit the range we broadcast, if we use an external antenna to ‘hear’, and the antenna on the Baofeng, to talk. This set up on all stations, improves reliable comms, and reduces the chance of detection. We can also better listen for threats that are using low powered radios, and any radio at distance.

      Well to get back on topic, first install an external antenna to listen to the sensors, and if that does not provide the range needed, then install an external antenna on those sensors that have difficulty reaching your receiving antenna. This is the sensible way to get it done, rather than installing external antenna on all sensors. The one advantage of installing antennas on all sensors, is that receiving station that is a hand held, would have a better chance of hearing the sensor. Test the reception of both the fixed receiving station, and the mobile hand held’s at all locations within the retreat, and install antennas as needed…

      I don’t mean to hijack the thread, but intend help when time permitting ,to support your fine efforts. This is an outstanding article, and topic could not be more important. Thanks for listening….

  5. A dog poses the same liability threat as a primer or shotshell warning device, or more so, since a dog can pursue a child or innocent party who happens to attract the animal’s attention. I remember Dear Abby or Ann Lander’s advice to persons seeking to buy guns for protection to get a dog instead. A dog requires full time attention and adjustment of one’s lifestyle to meet its needs. A gun will not jump out of a drawer and shoot someone by itself. A dog can–and will–go through an opening to attack anything that moves, regardless of its age or intent toward you. Despite what many owners insist, dogs are creatures of instinct, not reason. And you are responsible for its actions.

  6. I would like this author or Tunnel Rabbit to write an article about the Murs Dakota Alert Sensor unit, and the modifications mentioned. I have used the Murs Dakota Alert Sensor unit for years, but disconnected it because of the false alarms from deer. Thanks,

    1. Ozark Redneck,

      My mom was born bare foot in a dirt floor cabin near you.

      Others have had a similar concerns. Situation: The unit functions well, with no ‘false alarms’, for awhile, then begins to ‘alert’ frequently, and repeatedly issuing ‘false alarms’. According to the manual this the unit signaling that the batteries need to be replaced. Install fresh alkaline batteries, and see if it stops putting out ‘false alarms’. If it does not, then reinstall the ‘old’ batteries, and see what happens. If I recall correctly, when the 6 batteries only provide 7.2 or less volts, the unit will signal with a low battery alert. Eneloop batteries when fully charged will test at about 1.45, verses fresh alkaline batteries that will test at 1.5 to 1.6. Rechargeable batteries do not last as long. If using the unit in the cold climates, battery life is greatly diminished. I would use the lithium type if necessary.

      Tips and Tricks

      There are several way to power these. The safest way is buy an after market AA battery holder that has place for more than 6 AA batteries. To extend the time that rechargeable will power the unit, add one more rechargeable, and any extra batteries that the holder can hold, should have dead batteries wrapped in aluminum foil to serve as ‘place holders’. These ‘place holder’ provide no power. The unit will tolerate more than 9 volts, even 12 volts, but 12 volts may reduce the life of the unit. If we have rechargeable with voltages of 1.4 volts x 7 = 9.8 volts, as compared with 6 fresh alkaline with 1.6 volt x 6 = 9.6 volts. By add one more rechargeable battery we are near the same starting point as are the alkaline batteries.

      Another trick is to use a small 12 vdc SLA battery, or car battery and universal voltage transformer set to 9 vdc. The battery can be charged with a 10 watt solar panel using an inexpensive charge controller. This could be done with units that a set up at longer distances.

      Cheap Trick

      Use an old and failing car battery that has a ‘bad’ cell or two, and tests between 10vdc to 8vdc. There is often plenty of capacity at that voltage, even in cold temperatures to run these sensors that sip power.

      There is more than one way to skin a rabbit. These units are very useful, but they often frustrate the user. Read up. It would be a huge loss if one could not operate their sensors correctly. And just like anything else, take one out of the Faraday cage and use it for awhile to gain experience with it. In a time of stress, getting a ‘false alarm’, could be nerve racking, when all it needs is batteries. In a pinch, but only in a pinch, would I connect directly to 12vdc. With higher voltages they are more reliable in the rain, and cold. My first choice would be to add an ‘extra’ rechargeable AA battery, or two sets of 7 battery packs, wired in parallel to double the ‘run time’ when using rechargeable, or regular alkaline, should the lithium type were not available. Just keep the voltage below 10 vdc to be safe. The most stable source of power would be the 12 volt car battery with the universal voltage adapter set to 9 vdc. So as not to ‘waste’ a good car battery, use one that no longer starts a car.

      Universal voltage adapter. Always confirm polarity with a volt meter before connecting.

      https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CPUDC1U2000-Universal-Adapter-2000mA/dp/B00ELGA23E/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=universal+dc+adapter&qid=1567571483&s=electronics&sr=1-6

  9. Dear Tunnel Rabbit, It is good to know that we are related! But unfortunately your genes on electronics did not get to me. So I am going to save your reply and test it. Thanks! and stay safe!

  10. All Good Ideas here, covering any Perimeter larger than a suburban backyard takes a lot more than looking out a Window now and then… Here’s an additional idea for Perimeter Security – use of small, camera-equipped Drones for the Quick-Response to an Alarm from the remote sensors. A Drone can be Launched in less Time than it takes to get Dressed to go wandering out to Identify a Threat, and it Flys a lot faster than a Ground Vehicle, never mind a Man on Foot.

    A Drone flying several hundred feet above is much less noticeable to and Intruder than another Person or Ground Vehicle, which is what the Intruder would be looking for. If an Interception of the Intruder is called for, the Responding Personnel can be Guided effectively to an Engagement.

    With a Thermal- Imaging Camera, Nighttime Recon can be extremely Effective, and this type of System would also be useful for Hunting Game in the same manner.

    My own experience with doing this on a 1200-Acre Farm has been very effective, a Drone Sweep of the Perimeter saves Hours of running around on a 4-Wheeler checking Fences, playing “Find the Cow” and so far, on two occasions, it made it Very Easy to locate and have Arrested some Firewood Thieves in a Back Lot that borders a Gravel Road.

    We Heard some Chainsaws running, a little closer than the Neighbor’s Yard, sent the Drone over the Woods, identified they were Trespassing, and met the Sheriff’s Deputies on the Road, right at the ‘Targets’.

  12. The current ASF situation in the East part of the EU is representing a constant threat to the EU livestock sector and the recent expansion of the disease has also demonstrated the ability of the virus to spread long distance. ASF is a disease for which there is no effective vaccine and its control relies on early detection followed by rapid eradication. Considering the epidemiological situation and the possible economic consequences of the introduction of ASF, it is extremely important that free territories are maintained free by preventing the introduction of the disease. For such purpose, bio security plays a key role in preventing ASF, and given its epidemiological cycle, simple measures may prove effective in mitigating the transmission pathways of the disease, also in the backyard sector. In certain countries, in case of occurrence of epidemic diseases, there is the attempt to try to decrease the local risk of further spread, by reducing the number of backyards, especially in the areas surrounding commercial holdings, and afterwards prohibiting this type of farming practice. Given the socio-economic relevance of the backyard sector, such discriminatory approach needs to be carefully evaluated since it might lead to poor compliance of the measures enforced to control the disease.

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