James Wesley:
Regarding the recent letter In Praise of the MAK-90, that there were a few slightly erroneous statements made which I wish to clarify:
Most Norinco MAK-90s (as well as newer Russian/Bulgarian AK family rifles) use Double Hook triggers (not disconnectors), which at the top of the single piece of steel that is the trigger itself (which makes up the trigger/axis pin-bracket/primary sear), operates as the direct primary (semi-auto) sear to the hammer’s release during trigger-pull. And trigger-slap has nothing to do with double or single hook triggers, but with the disconnecter itself (a different part sitting within the trigger assembly).
Trigger slap is the side-effect of a disconnecter spring that is much too stiff or a disconnecter that sits too low in the trigger-assembly (or has the rear fin that pushes down on the back of the trigger as the hammer is pushing against it during hammer reset).
Anyone with a Tapco G2 (which come in both single/double hook flavors) installed on their AK will notice that this design has no trigger slap, nor do any of the newer Bulgarian/Russian AK trigger assemblies. Double hook triggers usually lend themselves to better single-stage “target” trigger pulls, whereas the single hook triggers usually offer a more military-style 2-stage trigger pull. All AKMs will work with single-hook triggers, but not all receivers will accept double-hook triggers, though a few minutes with a Dremel cutting wheel can add a second “cut” to the trigger-cutout in the receiver, if not already there, to accommodate it (just by looking at and copying the single-hook cutout as seen on the other side of the hole).
As for the 1.5mm vs the 1mm receiver thicknesses, the 1.5mm was the result of production with less-than-stellar quality steel (see softer-steel used in many Yugoslavian M70s). The 1.5mm was to make up for the loss of strength with sub-standard steel, mostly during the era when the former Yugoslavia did not have access to high-quality ordnance-grade steel; not that China had this problem but they went with more-than-needed steel anyway.
1mm receivers made properly with in-spec steel (and properly heat-treated) will literally outlast every other part of the rifle (long after the lands are shot smooth even in a chromed bore). So-called “heat fatigue” does not necessarily concern the AKM receivers (as much as axis-pin hole fatigue or rear trunnion walking from the BC slamming into it…but again this is really only a problem in non-heat-treated receivers) as they do not heat up nearly as much as the barrel/gas-block/gas tube and, again, if properly heat-treated, it’s a non-issue. American companies such as Global Trades (Armory Inc.), Nodak Spuds, et. al. make fine 1mm receivers that are of high-grade steel and are properly and fully heat-treated.
Remember: Even stamped-receiver AKMs still have forged/milled front and rear trunnions where all the lockup and abuse happens.
I have nothing against Norinco produced AKs, as they (MAK-90s and Polytech Legends) are of high quality fit and finish and every one I’ve seen/handles/shot has been superbly machined, blued and assembled. However, I’m not a huge fan of them as they do have firing-pin springs (one more thing to potentially fail). They can, over time, cake up with dirt, crud, fowling and binding up the spring and so forth and cause shallow primer strikes from a short firing pin strike (subsequently causing misfires). The only real drawback is slightly more care is required when cleaning out the firing-pin and channel in these rifles.
And while the heavier barrel is nice for slightly more resistance to heat-buildup and harmonic dampening, the addition of the 1.5mm receiver makes the weapon heavier than it needs to be. And for me, personally, though they do have slightly-less felt recoil (if properly braked), they do not balance or mount as well as a Com-Bloc AKM-type rifle. That is, however, purely my personal preference.
For those wanting to tighten up their AK’s groups, I suggest using good ammo. I like Golden Tiger as it’s proper .311″ dia. and is boat-tail, which carries better at and beyond 300 meters. For premium low-flash and high-accuracy, go with the Hornady Steel line loaded with V-Max bullets. I’ve also had decent groups with the Barnaul/Bear series of 7.62×39 ammo), and increasing your sight-radius always helps. A few things to look at in that regard, Tech-Sights and the Dog Leg Scope Rail (with Peep sight/Optional) from Texas Weapon Systems.
Most, with proper technique, should see their groups go from 50% to 200% tighter. It truly is more than just a moderately accurate rifle, all things considered. Most “battlefield pickup” AKs that many of our troops have seen/handled have been around for decades and have had tens if not hundreds of thousands of rounds through them, so the bores are, let’s just say, less than crisp at that point (even though they’re still running like swiss watches after so much shooting). That’s where part of the bad rap in accuracy comes from. Crummy ammo would be another big negative as well as the average standard sights.
Shoot 50,000+ rounds through any rifle and tell me how it groups then.
But if you’ve shot a Russian/Bulgarian type AKM with a new/newish Steyr-made cold-hammer forged barrel (or clone) and proper ammo/sights, you’d know what I’m talking about when I say they are at least fairly accurate weapons. And they still carry plenty of authority at 500 meter range, if employed correctly. I hope this helps, – Kyrottimus