Pat Cascio’s Product Review: Sig Sauer P250

I saw my first Sig handgun back in 1980, when I was running a gun shop and new to the gun biz but not new to guns. A customer wanted me to order him a Browning BDA .45 ACP pistol. I hadn’t heard of it, to be honest. So, I did some research and found that the Browning BDA (Browning Double Action) was actually made by Sig and was being imported by Browning. When the gun came in for my customer, I was more than a little impressed with it. It had excellent workmanship all the way around. That was my introduction into Sig firearms.

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Today, Sig Sauer is a major player in the law enforcement market, with many police officers carrying a Sig Sauer of some sort in their holsters. Sig isn’t one to sit back on past accomplishments; they are always on the cutting edge when it comes to long guns as well as handguns. I’ve owned more than my share of Sig handguns over the years, and one thing always stands out– the accuracy of these guns. Their accuracy is outstanding!

My local FFL dealer got a Sig P250 Sub-Compact handgun in. It was used in .45ACP, and I checked it out a good number of times over several weeks before working a trade. For whatever reason, and this is strange, Sig handguns simply don’t sell very well at my local gun shop. It may be the price point, since our area isn’t very “rich”, to put it politely. While some might think that a Sig handgun is overpriced, they are not. They are an excellent firearm for the money.

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The P250 is a double-action only (DAO) handgun, and it has a super-smooth trigger pull that is long but extremely smooth all the way through the pull of the trigger. The hammer is bobbed, so it can’t catch on anything when drawing, too. The gun weighs in at about 25 ounces for the Sub-Compact version, which is the one I have. The frame is black polymer, and the frame itself can be swapped out for a different sized frame. There are longer ones to hold more ammo. Of course, the slide can be changed, too. Check the Sig website for complete information on this.

Sig advertises the trigger pull as between 5.5 and 6.5 pounds, and they are right. As mentioned, the trigger pull is super-smooth and better than many revolvers that have had a trigger job. I kid you not. The Sub-Compact model holds six rounds of .45 ACP. However, you can get an extended mag with a sleeve, and it will allow you to carry nine rounds, but it sort of defeats the purpose of carrying a sub-compact handgun. My sample came with two 6-rd mags and one 9-rd mag. I’ll admit that firing the P250 is much more comfortable with a 9-rd mag, since it gives the pinky finger a lot more purchase on the gun.

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The slide is finished with Nitron, a very durable coating that really brushes off the elements. My sample also had night sights. That’s always a good thing on any handgun, if you ask me. The Compact and Duty sized guns have a Picatinny rail on the frame for mounting lights and lasers. The Sub-Compact model doesn’t have this feature. The trigger guard on the Sub-Compact model is rounded, though on the larger guns it is squared off in the front. You have three controls on the frame. One is the take-down lever, and the other is the slide release/stop. Plus, there is the magazines release.

Sig came up with an outstanding idea with their interchangeable frames. Well, you aren’t actually changing the frame as you would with a traditional pistol. Instead, you are actually removing the trigger group from the frame, and it has the serial number on it. So, you can actually purchase, directly from Sig, a different sized framed without having to go through an FFL dealer. Just pop out the trigger group, and install it in a different frame, and you can also change calibers by changing the slide/barrel and magazines. It’s quite a gun, to say the least.

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The P250 felt really good in my hand, and that is half the battle if you ask me. If a gun doesn’t feel right or doesn’t fit your hand, you’re not going to shoot well with it. Even my very picky wife, when it comes to handguns, liked the way the gun felt in her hand.

Now, on to the long, very long double-action only trigger pull. As mentioned, it is very smooth, and I expected no less from Sig. However, the long trigger pull just wasn’t working for me. I was pulling all my shots low and to the left. No matter how hard I tried, all my shots were going low and to the left. This was shooting at 15 yards, off-hand, with no support. Surely, it wasn’t the gun. It had to be me!

The nice folks at Buffalo Bore Ammunition and Black Hills Ammunition, as always, came through for me with a great selection of .45 ACP ammo to test in the P250. From Buffalo Bore, I had their 160-gr Barnes TAC XP all-copper hollow point, low recoil standard velocity round, 255-gr Outdoorsman Hard Cast FN +P load, 230-gr FMJ FN +P, 200-gr JHP +P, 160-gr Barnes TAC XP all-copper hollow point +P, and their 185-gr Barnes TAC XP all-copper hollow point in +P. From Black Hills, I had their 200-gr Match SWC, 230-gr FMJ, 185-gr JHP, 200-gr JHP, 230-gr JHP +P, and their 185-gr Barnes TAC XP all-copper hollow point +P. So, there was a great mix of ammo to run through the little Sig P250.

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There were zero malfunctions of any type, from the light loads to the heavy +P loads, and this didn’t surprise me. After all, it is a Sig! They are known for reliability and accuracy, if the shooter does their part.

For my accuracy testing, I rested the gun on a sleeping bag over a rock, and shooting was done at 15 yards. I had some really decent groups of three inches, and some that were over four inches. Let me make this clear. It wasn’t the gun or the ammo; it was me. I simply couldn’t get used to the very long, double-action only trigger pull. I caught myself flinching many times, because of the long trigger pull. I tested the gun over a period of a month, and no matter what I did I caught myself flinching, anticipating the gun going off, due to the long trigger pull. I’ve owned many DAO pistols over the years, and none caused me to flinching like the P250 did. It was not the gun; it was me!100_6242

As mentioned earlier on, shooting off-hand with no support my shots were low and to the left of the bullseye. I couldn’t get any groups per se, shooting without a support. Now, with that said, I’m sure that if the gun were used in a self defense scenario, I wouldn’t flinch like I was doing during target shooting. I simply could not master the DAO trigger pull on the P250, no matter how hard I tried. The smoothness of the trigger pull should have been a no-brainer for me. I should have gotten some good groups off-hand, but I couldn’t!

I did have a tie for best accuracy when shooting over the sleeping bag. The 160-gr Barnes TAC XP Barnes load standard velocity load and the Black Hills 230-gr FMJ loads were right at three inches. This was at 15 yards. I know the gun and ammo were capable of much better accuracy than I was capable of.

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Every now and then, I just run across a handgun that no matter how hard I try, I can’t master the trigger pull. I’m used to the short and crisp trigger pull on the 1911, and I don’t have any problems with most DAO trigger pulls on other polymer framed pistols. However, this P250 stumped me. It had me beat, no matter what I did. In the end, I ended up trading the P250 for something else. While there was nothing wrong with the gun, I couldn’t master the trigger on it. The gun felt great in the hand, was well made, and is capable of better accuracy than I could wring out of it. Full retail is $548 on the gun, and for a Sig that’s a great bargain, if you ask me, if you can master the long but smooth trigger pull.

– Senior Product Review Editor, Pat Cascio

Recipe of the Week: Carrots in Dilled Wine Sauce, by J.R.

Ingredients:

  • 8 medium carrots, cut into small sticks
  • ½ cup chicken bouillon
  • ½ cup dry white wine
  • ½ tsp dried dill weed
  • 2 tsp instant minced onion
  • ¼ tsp garlic salt
  • 1 Tbsp lemon juice
  • 2 Tbsp cornstarch
  • 2 Tbsp cold water

Directions:

  1. Place carrots in a slow-cooking pot.
  2. Combine bouillon, wine, dill, onion, garlic salt, and lemon juice; then pour over the carrots.
  3. Cover and cook on high 2 to 3 hours.
  4. Dissolve cornstarch in water, then stir into the carrot mixture.
  5. Cook on high for 10 minutes or until slightly thickened.

Makes 6 servings.

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Letter Re: Gas

HJL,

The difference between CNG and piped-in gas to your home is simply pressure. The gas in my house is at 7 psi and if your thumb is big enough you can stop the flow. CNG could be as high as 3000 psi, and you find it in tanks for vehicles that burn natural gas and filling stations for natural gas burning vehicles. The difference between butane, propane, and natural gas is British Thermal Units (btu) generated by a cubic centimeter of each substance. From high school, a btu is the amount of energy it takes to raise one cubic centimeter of water one degree Celsius. I know that propane generates 20% more heat when comparing the same quantity of that to natural gas. I’m not sure where butane falls in there. The difference in heat yield is dealt with by changing the orifice through which the substance travels to be burned. It is very dangerous to change gases and not change orifices. Butane always comes in a device with a tiny opening. I would infer that its yield is even higher than propane. You find it employed in handy small devices all the time. I have a kit to install on one of my generators that claims to allow use of propane, natural gas, or gasoline. It relies on a needle valve to adjust the flow of fuel rather than an orifice change. The kit is in a box because I am waiting on some free time to install it. Guess you know how that is working out. There is also equipment that involves a venturi valve that will dilute propane with air as it flows from the tank to the device burning it so that the btu yield is reduced to that of natural gas. This equipment has industrial and institutional applications and is priced accordingly. Another nuance on gases is that natural gas floats. It is lighter than air. Propane on the other hand is a product of the crude oil distillation process and is heavier than air. It will collect in a low spot and potentially explode. As a consequence, you have to be careful about installing propane equipment over basements and crawl spaces. Certainly it is done, but you cannot have a switch that sparks or a device with an igniter in your crawl space. You just have to be conscious and careful. It is universally held as a bad idea to install propane-fueled equipment in a pit under your house. I dug that pit when I was young. Fortunately I learned the “propane collects” lesson from advice and not launching my house. RV

Economics and Investing:

Everyone thinks they are middle class: The false perceptions many Americans hold. – B.B.

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What If The Oil Rebound Never Happens?

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The Student-Loan Scam Killed ITT Tech

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Yellen helps Clinton dodge a bullet

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Hanjin Gets $45 Million Credit Line From Korean State Lender

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SurvivalBlog and its editors are not paid investment counselors or advisers. Please see our Provisos page for details.

Odds ‘n Sods:

Washington State mall shooting: FBI ‘not ruling out terrorism’ as Turkish man arrested over five killed in Macy’s – Bring some more over – How’s that working out for you? – W.C.

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U.S. Navy Sailors Disciplined for Joining the Anti-Anthem Protest Movement – It should be noted that this behavior is in violation of the Uniform Code of Military Justice governing active-duty personnel! – K.B.

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4 Stages of Islamic Conquest – B.B.

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Reader G.P. recommended the Jas. Townsend and Son, Inc. YouTube channel for some classic 18th century food prep.

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Edward Snowden Warns, Whatever You Do, Don’t Use Google Allo

Hugh’s Quote of the Day:

“When heaven is about to confer a great responsibility on any man, it will exercise his mind with suffering, subject his sinews and bones to hard work, […and] place obstacles in the paths of his deeds, so as to stimulate his mind, harden his nature, and improve wherever he is incompetent.” – Mencius, Chinese Philosopher, 372 – 289 BC

Seed Collecting- Part 1, by Sarah Latimer

The fall season has arrived and so have the cool, or downright cold, night temperatures that go with it. The garden has not only past its peaked but mostly “petered out” with relatively little left in the garden. Though you may feel inclined to clear or burn the garden and till the soil in preparation for winter snow, I encourage you to wait. There may be a treasure to be snatched from it first, if you dare engage in the adventure of seed collecting.

If you have grown plants that are a heirloom variety or at least are a variety that is not a hybrid or GMO, then you can collect the seed and, if handled, stored, and planted properly, expect the seed to grow the same kind of plant and to produce the same type of leaves, flowers, and fruit/vegetables as the plant from which the seed came. Now, I know, there are a lot of “ifs” in that previous statement. I will try to deal with those in the following article to increase your success. There is some skill required, but there is an enormous reward, in my opinion. Not only does a seed collector save money by not having to purchase new seed each season, but they also gain confidence in their inventory of seed for the next growing season and their knowledge of how to procure more seed for the future no matter what circumstances they face. An experienced seed collector could venture into any garden, even in the spring thaw, and find a great deal of seed that they could take with them to plant elsewhere for their family’s sustenance and/or for barter. After being left out in the winter weather, the germination rate of these seeds may be reduced for some plants, but there will be some viable seeds. Many seeds require a freeze in order to germinate later in the garden. Seed collecting is not difficult, and it is something that children can help with. Make it a treasure-hunting adventure, but know that it has it down side, too.

Let me be blunt. Seed collecting is work. It is messy, time consuming, table/counter consuming, tedious, and even occasionally disappointing. However, its benefits far outweigh the costs, in my opinion. Though, for some, seeds may seem inexpensive to purchase when compared to the time it takes to learn and go through the whole process of seed collecting and storing, you should consider the value of this learned skill and the ability to grow a garden even if seeds can no longer be shipped to you or readily purchased from major seed distributors.

Plants are created to reproduce, though their seed is found in various places and it looks quite different for each type of plant. However, mankind has manipulated nature. Some hybrid and GMO plants will not produce seed that germinates and grows into plants and, in other cases, the plants that grow will not produce fruit or will produce something different than what the seed came from. It shocks me that people have actually crossed insects and vegetable seeds. That is just wrong and clearly unnatural! I strongly urge people to avoid GMO altogether, even if you are not collecting seed, and if you want to collect seed then you should not grow hybrid plants either. There are plenty of wonderful heirloom plants available. In the past decade or so, the number of companies offering heirloom seed is increasing. With the increased consumer demand, even the major seed companies like Gurney’s and Burpee’s are carrying more heirloom seed and plants and identifying them as such than they were a few years ago. On top of that, there are many more small suppliers of heirloom seed and plants, not to mention the seed saving groups that are cropping up everywhere (pun intended).

I have enjoyed learning about plants and how to identify seed and teaching others, especially the children. It is also a pleasure to share my seed with others who are learning to garden. Eventually, you learn to identify carrot seeds and tell them from lettuce seeds. Both are small but they’re different, and the more time you spend with them the more familiar you become. Now, I am not a botanist or a licensed expert, but I will happily share how I have gathered seeds that have produced delicious food in our gardens year after year. I may not describe each of the very best ways to process and store seeds, but the following is what has worked best for me. I hope you’ll benefit from this and give some of it a try. Some of this is quite easily done and a shame not to attempt especially if you have heirloom produce growing in your garden organically-grown, heirloom produce that was grown in your area. Let’s get started looking at the way different plants provide their seed and we can harvest it for next year’s garden. We’ll look at seed by basic plant type.

Common Vegetables

I’m reviewing these vegetables in no particular order, except that I did think of salad right off the bat, so we are going to list the seeds for the basics of my tossed salad first. (I usually also include a fifteen or so of the beautiful and tasty blue borage flowers from the garden in a large shared salad, when they are available, but these don’t belong in the vegetable category and will be listed first in garden-friendly flowers.)

Lettuce

Lettuce prefers cool or warm weather rather than the intense heat of mid-summer, so it tends to bolt in heat. When this happens the leaves are not as flavorful so many people will pull it up. I always leave some for seed later. The stalk-like stem that grows up out of the lettuce will eventually grow up to several feet tall, even as tall as four feet, and produce clusters of yellow flowers that are similar to miniature, cone-shaped dandelions. If pollinated, once the plant matures and dies, there are numerous seeds under each white fluff inside the brown flower ovary. If there are no or few green buds remaining, I will take an empty 5-gallon bucket, bend the stalk over so that the seed cluster will fit down inside my bucket, and then beat the plant head against the sides of the bucket to release the seed. It may even require that you use your hands to roll the seed pods between them to release the seed, but usually beating them against the side is adequate if they are mature and dry seeds, which are the ones you want anyway. If you do this, you will capture some pollen and filament also, but that is not a problem as long as everything is very dry and nothing that is stored with your seed is green or moist. You don’t want green seed or green seed pods, so don’t get aggressive in collecting so much so that these fall off of the stalk and into your seed. (If you happen to capture a lady bug, please release it. It is a friend in your garden, where it eats the aphids.) To partially separate the seed from everything else that falls into my bucket, I shake it by bumping the side of the bucket quite a bit. The seed tends to fall to the bottom while the fluff and other stuff stays more to the top. I remove the top that does not contain much seed and leave what’s in the bottom. Lettuce seed looks somewhat like tiny black, brown, or white rice. After doing a preliminary separation, I make sure it is dry and do my best to remove any aphids that might also be alive among what I gathered by putting it in ziploc storage bags with paper toweling on top to absorb any moisture and for aphids to crawl up on to die. (Be sure to close the ziploc bags so the aphids cannot escape. You will remove the toweling once the aphids have died, a few days later.) I set the bags in partial sunlight so the moisture is drawn out and I tilt them from side to side a little each day to move the contents around, allowing for moisture to rise out of it over the course of three to seven days. If there appears to be much moisture, it may be necessary to replace the toweling daily. After the aphids have died and it appears that the moisture is gone, I open the ziploc, remove the toweling, and pour the seed out on a tray for a final drying over at least two days. If there is a lot of debris remaining in the seed, I may strain it through a large-holed colander. Then, I bag or jar the seed. (That process will be disclosed later.)

Broccoli/Cauliflower

Broccoli florets, if not cut to be eaten but left on the plant, will eventually bolt and produce blooms. The blooms will produce pods that contain seed. Once the pods turn a golden color and dry, carefully remove these pods. I gently crush them into a clean bowl and allow them to sit to assure their dryness for at least three days before storing. Alternatively, I have also cut the broccoli stalks before the pods were fully dry and then hung them to let the pods finish drying before collecting the seed. Regardless, the seed pods need to be thoroughly dry before you remove them from the stalk and crush them. (If you leave the pods on the stalk, you must be very careful not to crush the pod during the removal process or the seed will be lost into the soil.) Broccoli seeds are very small and round. To extract the seed, you can use a rolling pin on top of waxed paper, if you don’t want to use your finger to crush the seed pods.

Letter Re: Questions on Gas

Hugh,

I would like to ask a question to your other readers. What is the difference between butane, propane, CNG, and piped in home natural gas? Can they be used interchangeably? For instance, can I burn butane in my propane camp stove? Can I use propane in my refillable butane lighters? Can all of these be used in propane vehicles, et cetera? – D.H.

Odds ‘n Sods:

The lamestream media recently noted that Hitlery Clinton has demanded a stepstool at the upcoming presidential debate, because she feels height challenged. I think that she must be channeling North Korea’s Comrade Nam II’s penchant for trickery at the Panmunjon Peace Talks. Comrade Clinton certainly is using the Collectivist playbook to full advantage. – JWR

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A person can dream can’t they? – Man Shouts “Hillary For Prison” And Clinton Responds With “Let’s Make It Happen!” – M.R.

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LA Police Union: Commission Wants Cops To Run From Armed Suspects – B.B.

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Suspect In Deadly Washington State Mall Shooting Identified – W.C.

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Border Sheriff To Illegal Immigration Supporters: Put America First For Once – B.B.