Our weekly Snippets column is a collection of short items: responses to posted articles, practical self-sufficiency items, how-tos, lessons learned, tips and tricks, and news items — both from readers and from SurvivalBlog’s editors. Note that we may select some long e-mails for posting as separate letters.
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Tennessee Republicans Pass Bill Allowing Lethal Force for Protection of Property [1]. (Pictured above is the Tennessee capitol building — a public domain photo by euthman [2].) A quote from the article’s opening:
“WSMV noted that if Gov. Bill Lee (R) signs the legislation into law it means “property owners will be allowed to use deadly force to prevent someone from attempted or actual trespass, arson, damage to property, including damage to livestock, burglary, theft, robbery, or aggravated cruelty to animals.”
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Over at our friend Commander Zero’s Notes From The Bunker blog: An observation about caching [3].
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Jacobs Media Techsurvey 2026: AM/FM Radio Listening Hits All-Time Low as Digital Surges to 44% [4].
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Reader J.R.G. wrote, regarding Tom Christianson’s recent review of the Savage 220A shotgu [5]n:
“It was refreshing to see a review of a low tech product that defines practicality for homesteaders. Single-shots may not fire as rapidly as other actions, but their lighter weight is greatly appreciated when walking the fence line looking for areas needing repair. They aren’t called ‘The Farmers Friend’ for nothing.
The article mentioned the recoil of shooting a lighter firearm – that is real. I own two 12 gauge single shots, but save only lighter shot loads (and Aquila Mini Shells) as my old shoulder complains of heavy recoil. Better yet – the 20 gauge will do at least 90% of what the 12 will do and those are the heavy loads like bear protection. Not needed here. I have a chamber sleeve for shooting 20 gauge in 12 gauge firearms. For single shots, slow to reload but it increases versatility greatly. A few of these for future bartering – trading might be a good idea.
For plain foraging, even the lowly .410 has a place at the table. Future hunts will be shooting at stationary targets (for more sure results) and the small shot load does less damage to a perched – sitting target. Lighter weight – bulk makes for easier carrying. The .410 isn’t just for kids is what I’m saying.”
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Bill H. in the Northeast wrote:
“In reading the recent gardening article from SaraSue, I wanted to remind the community that we are all stewards of the land, and of our health. I often talk with people on Victory Gardens, and how to manage a balance with Regenerative Gardening, and Integrated Pest Control (organic, companion plants, and ecological). The chemicals in treated wood have improved over the years, but are still better avoided for food gardens. Even metal raised-beds pose questions for soil contamination – tainted sourcing, treatments, material composition. Finally, layering the raised-bed bottom with vinyl sheeting … more potential poisons to your food production. Everything leaches over time.
For alternatives, consider using natural woods that weather well (oils, tight grain, density) and which are not preferred by insects. Cedar, Redwood, and Black Locust are examples, but even Pine (good cost compromise) will serve. You can flame sear Pine to make it last for waist-high raised beds that represent more of a financial commitment. Otherwise, expect the need to rotate the boards after 5 years, and be pleasantly surprised if you get longer life from them. If you feel strongly about adding in a bottom shield against rodents for raised-beds, an inch or two of ¾ inch rocks will prove a deterrent for burrowing animals and still allow for drainage, worms, and “communication” with the Earth. In practice, in our Victory Garden I do not find mice, moles, voles, etc. to be any issue. They are deterred simply by regularly working your garden, and I have helpful friends that do their jobs – snakes, foxes, hawks. As I type this, I just saw a red-fox (this one is more orange) trotting away happily with a squirrel in its mouth! While squirrels aren’t very harmful to our Victory Garden, they do dig up the beds and have locked onto my sugar-snap pea seeds as tasty snacks.
Weeds in raised-beds are also much less of a nuisance. I crowd them out with intended plantings and hand-pull the few remaining. And please, no cardboard! Between the cardboard, the glues, labels, tape, and ink dyes, you are adding significant unhealthy chemicals to your soil when you put down cardboard as weed mat. For insect protection, I use companion plantings with aromatic herbs – our kitchen garden component of basil, oregano, fennel, chives, parsley, lavender, thyme, rosemary, mint (contained), dill, chamomile – and even the sometimes sacrificial attractors like marigolds, calendula, etc. In my pollinator beds nearby, I encourage native plants, as well as companion planting herbs which will also reduce deer foraging on other plantings.
A word on native plants and weeds – these can simply be plants we view as growing in the wrong place. Sometimes, we need to revisit our perception of their existence. For example, on our property we love weeds like dandelions, nettle, and clover. All have edibility/health benefits, pollinator friendliness, and garden beauty. Native plants are successful for a reason, and should be considered for their role in the ecosystem. Moving/culling them to make way for food production areas is, of course, acceptable, but should be given due thought before doing so. Finally, if you really need to spray for insects – we have a modest peach orchard that needs this twice a season as well as spot problems in the Victory Garden – then consider using a Garlic/Peppermint/Neem oil solution. This blend is harmless to humans and will deter insects. Note this is not a knockdown answer, and there could still be insect damage over time. I have come to expect harvesting 85% of my crops, but to help reduce that gap, we garden in partnership with the ecosystem: praying mantis egg sacks to hatch lethal insect predators, birds, brachonid wasps, lacewings, earwigs, ladybugs, spiders, etc.
On the larger garden areas, e.g., farm size, SaraSue already learned practical lessons on weed cloths – they may become root-tangled and can be a pain to deploy. I would add that they too leach chemicals, and worse, when you kill the weeds through the coverage it often kills beneficial bacteria and degrades healthy soil life. From a Regenerative Agriculture standpoint, I don’t recommend weed cloths of any kind, but I do understand that there are cost/benefit scenarios to consider when working large land pieces. That is an individual decision. Regenerative Agriculture focuses on rebuilding soil organic material, restoring biodiversity, enhancing the ecosystem, and assisting water resources. It does so through minimal soil disturbance, cover cropping, crop diversity, utilizing composting, and integrating livestock rotation.”
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What we know about the US military’s new joint laser weapon system [7].
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