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Letter Re: A Useful Web Site on Government Auctions
Good evening, Mr. Rawles -
I
always enjoy reading your site and find it informative, with plenty of links and good advise on just about everything.
One site I'd recommend for your readers is GovDeals.com. It has a wide variety of goods on an ongoing basis, with generators, trailers, tractors, and a
lot more.
I spotted one lot in particular that seems to be a kind of 'starter barter kit'.
I'm not connected with this web site in any way. In fact, most of the best ones seem to be too far away for me to take advantage of. "Them's the breaks", I guess. - Mark
JWR Replies: Thanks for that link. A similar site that I've found useful is GovLiquidation.com. If you keep an eye out there for items like concertina wire, commo wire, sand bags, camouflage nets, medical freezers, and trailer-mounted diesel gensets, then you can find some real bargains. Warning: Government surplus auctions can be habit forming. Seek counseling and intervention if you become addicted. A key symptom: Your barn and shop begin to overflow with "bargain" military surplus.
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Letter Re: Ideas for Home-Based Businesses?
Mr Rawles,
I am brand new to this mindset so I hope the that my questions are not redundant.
I am a self-employed construction worker in Idaho. I would really like to start
prepping and stockpiling. Do you have any suggestions as to a home based business
that might prove fruitful? I appreciate your time. - Micah
JWR Replies: I have posted several lists and commentary on
suggested home-based business ideas. Just search through the "Self
Employment and Home-Based Businesses" posting
category, starting at the bottom,a nd work you way up.
In today's economy, especially with the prospect of an influenza pandemic,
I think that mail order businesses are probably the best possibilities
to pursue. Anything related to
home
security
should
sell well,
even
in a full-on
Depression.
Ditto
for DVDs.
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More About Depression Proof Jobs--Consider the Three Ks
In these perilous economic times, marked by increasingly frequent corporate
layoffs, I'm getting a correspondingly large number of question from blog readers
and
consulting clients
about "recession proof" jobs. I've already mentioned quite a few
possibilities, but there is one whole category that doesn't require much (if
any) special
training:
In
Japan, these are called the ""Three-K" jobs: kitsui ("hard")
, kitanai ("dirty")
and kiken ("dangerous"). If you are willing to take on any
of the Three K jobs, do cheerful and hard work, and have exemplary attendance,
then you will likely have a job that will carry you all the way through a deep
recession or even a depression. If times get truly Schumeresque and
you get laid
off,
then please
be
willing
to "think
outside the box", and consider taking a Three K job. Some of these are low
level
city and county payroll jobs. And by low level, I mean things like sanitation
worker,
animal
control
officer, sewer technician (BTW, when did that become "technical?),
solid waste transfer station worker, highway maintenance worker, and so forth.
Think about it: If you get laid off
and can't find work in
your chosen field after several months of searching, then you ought consider
taking a cut in pay, to take a far less
glamorous job. When corporate layoffs are happening recurrently, a
steady job beats
no job. Don't let your family starve, or end up homeless. There is
no shame in accepting good old-fashioned hard work. If you take a job that
brings
in only one half of your existing income, consider that you'll actually come
out ahead of any of your contemporaries that are laid off more than half of
each year. Further,
you will have uninterrupted
benefits,
such as health insurance, that they will also lack. A menial and low-paying
job is better than no job.
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Four Letters Re: 3-in-1 Home Workshop Machines
JWR,
I agree with you on the machine tool issue. You end up with a lot of tooling
and accessories by buying a shop. Things like rotary tables, angle plates
and clamping stuff make this approach a bargain. A few grand goes a long
way if you dig into [the replacement costs]. Like you say, [in the depth
of the recession] there will be a lot of stuff out there.
I have a good set of machinist tools but no machines and have been thinking
the same thing.
I have millwrighted machines for people from closed machine shops. I used a
Ryder rental with a lift gate and rolled the machines on bars (a Johnson Bar
is very helpful.) The Egyptian method works! I had to remove the table from
the Bridgeport to get it through a doorway. The lathe was easier (longer base,
lower center of gravity). Buy capable machines and beware of buying equipment
with three phase motors.
Thanks again, Jim. Best Regards, - Mike from Michigan
Jim
An incredible place to get used industrial tools and equipment is H.G.R.
Industrial Surplus, in Cleveland, Ohio. They have 12 acres of equipment
under roof. The quantity and quality and very low cost is remarkable. Just
check their web site for a complete list of what they have. It changes daily.
I've
found that it is very well worth a drive through states to go there. -
Jim Fry, Curator, Museum
of Western Reserve Farms & Equipment, Ohio
James,
I bought one
of these milling machines sold by Lathemaster.
This is one of those Rong-Fu 45 clones, what they call a bed mill; the table
stays at the same height and the head goes up and down. It's a good machine
for the money, but not in the same league as big knee mill. Of course, it doesn't
cost $5,000, either.
Like any other low-cost bed mill, it isn't rigid enough to take really heavy
cuts. If you try, it flexes, and the cut goes sideways a little. But if you
work your way up to the intended line taking shallow cuts, it's fine. I've
made quite a few things with mine, mostly out of aluminum and titanium.
I'm very happy with it. That said, when I get the space, I'll get a true CNC machine,
probably the Tormach
PCNC.
In anticipation of this upgrade, I got Tormach tooling for my Lathemaster mill,
which turns out to be a pretty nice thing anyway.
Thanks, - PNG
Jim:
Three follow-up observations:
First, Do not mill in a drill chuck. as one
letter said to do. It will cause the drill chuck to fall off of the taper
it is attached
to, and can also break the jaws.
Second, [If taking the 3-1n-1 approach,] Grizzly.com is at the top of everyone's
list.
Third, Take a technological step back 100 years, and everyone should try and
find a shaper! See
this Wikipedia page. After all, a mill is only good until the cutters
run out! - Tantalum Tom
« Economics and Investing: |Main| The Long Arm of the Lawless, by Fred Burton and Scott Stewart »
Ten Letters Re: 3-in-1 Home Workshop Machines
JWR:
One of your readers asked: "I want to buy a 3 in 1 machine. Does anyone
have any experience with them? Perhaps a brand to recommend or stay away from?"
Having considered that choice extensively myself, my home shop amateur opinion
is to recommend separate machines. Now that I see what a real mill table looks
like, I realize there isn't enough table space on the 3-in-1 to set up anything.
Instead, get the cheapest lathe you can stand, and the best mill you can afford.
If you still want a combo for space reasons, get one of the lathes with the
vertical mill attached at the back center of the bed, like the Grizzly G0516.
As one example of a machine combination, I would propose the 250 pound Harbor
Freight 8x12 (8x14+, actually) lathe, and the 700 pound Enco Rong-Fu 45 clone
(square column, geared head). I've found real-world machine capacities are
better described by weight than work envelope.
Budget spending twice as much on tooling as you do on the lathe and mill. If
you can only afford one, get the lathe. People did clever work with a lathe
for hundreds of years before the vertical mill was made practical by cheap
end mill cutters. Machine tools are only as clever as the user, but others'
cleverness is recorded and available inexpensively in books from Lindsay
Books.
Of course all this equipment is made in China. The EPA, OSHA, and the unions
have made it impossible for industry to be competitive in the US. Thanks to
what remains of free trade, you are better off being able to get Chinese iron
than to get nothing at all. The purpose of autarky is to be able to starve
a population into submission; see also
Curtain, Iron. Buy soon while you can still buy at all.
Chinese machine tools tend to be a fix-up project from the start. There are
lots of little details which will want to correct, which you wouldn't be willing
to pay the manufacturer to have done right.
Popular machines have deep user communities on the Internet.
Here are some suggested vendors and places to get ideas:
Lathemaster.com
Grizzly.com/products/G0516
Littlemachineshop.com
Varmintal.com/alath.htm
Use-enco.com
Harborfreight.com [JWR
Adds: Beware! Nearly all Harbor Freight products are made in Mainland
China, and mostly junk with scant spares or warranties!]
ihcnc.com
Lindsay Books
Regards, - B.B.
Hi James,
I have had a Shoptask 3 in 1 for 6 yr's now. As far as I can tell, the Harbor
Freight designs are [clones of the] older designs of the Shoptask machines.
Grizzly also makes a similar
machine,which in my opinion looks better, but I have no firsthand knowledge
of that. My experience with any of these machine's is that out of the box,
they are junk. These do not have high quality metal, hardened surface's and
such.
The belt drive's are poorly designed, extremely noisy, and prone to breakdown.
The best thing to do with one should you purchase it,it to tear it apart, clean
and adjust everything! Mine came with casting sand
all over, and inside! Everything was sloppy or loose. If you have any mechanical
background,these can be made
into a decent machine ,but with lot's of sweat and time. These are great for
making odds and end',or quick repairs,but not heavy duty stuff. They
are not,and will never be, intended for 8 hour a day use. For a home
hobby machine,they can be handy, but not for true business use. The switches
are junk, the motors
are junk, the bearings are junk, the belts are made of old rubber bands
or somesuch! The milling portion of it is nothing more than a drill press,
and just as inaccurate.
If your an experienced machinist, I have 30 year's worth,they can be a handy
machine, given time and effort. I personally have three other older machines,
two CNCs and
a
chucker, each one cost about the same as a new Shoptask. If room is an issue,
I'd
prefer
to get a Harbor
Freight machine, as it need's the same amount of work to be decent,and cheaper.
My experience with Shoptask was less than stellar,as it took 8 months to arrive,
a really slow boat from China! If shop floor space isn't an issue, I'd prefer--and
wish I
had bought--an older full size machine. Even an older "worn out" production
type
machine would have been less effort than this was! - Dean
Sir,
In response to your letter regarding 3-in-ones:
The ones you see for sale are a combination machine tool that combines a metal
lathe, drill press and vertical milling machine. They are used a lot by hobbyists
here, and I have heard that in Vietnam and similar locales, they are the
#1 machine for small motorcycle rebuilding shops.
I have been using a Smithy 1220 for about 5 years, and here are some observations:
Most of these machines are built on a pretty heavy lathe bed that uses a
small milling table as the platform for bolting the lathe tooling to. As
a lathe,
they are pretty stout. Most of them lack a back gear for slow turning operations
(such as threading) and you'll want to check on whether they have a split nut,
power feeds and a thread dial. The basic 1220 I have does not have a thread
dial or a slow speed, which basically means threading is done [by 'hand-spindling"]
with the lathe powered off. The upgraded Smithy models have more of these features.
In general, these machines do a good job as a lathe. Be sure to get a 4-jaw
chuck with the package, as you will need this for gunsmithing or any precision
work. The import 3-jaw chuck you will get with most is not anything I would
use on work that needs to be repeatable.
In drill-press mode, they will all work fine. They are really overbuilt compared
to even a good drill press, so you will have no problems locating and drilling
precision holes, countersinking, etc. I recommend tossing the import drill
chuck that comes with these and purchasing a proper American-made Jacobs, as
they are much better.
The main weakness in all of these machines is the milling aspect. The table
is usually fairly small, most do not have a knee for raising/lowering the table,
and they are not that rigid. Your work envelope will be quite a bit smaller
than a full-size Bridgeport or even a tabletop mill. Get rid of the vise that
comes with these and pick up a Kurt or a good import knockoff of this design.
Also, build a heavy-duty table to bolt the unit to, and it will run with much
less chatter. I made a stand for mine out of 2x2" steel tubing filled
with concrete. I can mill steel if I use good US cutters (pick these up on
eBay) and modest feed speeds.
From my experience, I would say that the Harbor Freight model is probably
the least desirable, in terms of initial quality and aftermarket support. The
Grizzly is better, and they generally stand behind their products and offer
replacement parts for sale. My Smithy has been okay in terms of quality, and
I would say that their support is excellent (reasonable prices on parts/accessories
and excellent US phone support). I do not have any experience with the Shoptask,
but I hear good things about the machine and its capability.
If you want more first-person accounts, sign up for the
Yahoo 3-IN-ONE discussion group. Cheers, - JN
Jim--
In response to the questions about 3 in 1 machines. The two most common brands
are Shoptask and Smithy. Both are imported, quality is pretty similar from
what I can tell. I have owned and used a Shoptask for more than a decade.
Both machines have real limitations. For a neophyte or hobbyist who wants to
make the odd part for a motorcycle restoration or old gun, they're fine. If
you're trying to scratch out a subsistence living with a part time job as a
machinist, you'll never make it. The mill/drill function of the machine is
extremely limited in the "Z-axis", which
is the "up and down" motion. There are other limitations as well.
I bought one because I knew I would be moving 5-10 times in a decade, and would
have to put it in a basement or utility room. They are somewhat "portable" and
take up less room than three proper machines. You can do decent work on them,
but it's slow and tedious and takes more skill. But to do really good
work, and do it efficiently enough to make a living on, you just have to have
a real
lathe, a real milling machine, and a real drill press.
If you shop around, you can get both a used lathe and a used milling machine,
probably with some tooling, for around $5,000, give or take. Occasionally there
are terrific deals around and you might get the job done for half that amount.
A real lathe and a real milling machine could produce parts at about 10 times
the rate of any combo machine.
Don't forget that it is entirely possible to spend as much on tooling as you
do on the basic machine, so the initial lower price of the 3 in 1 machine isn't
as great a deal as you might first assume, compared to a used machine with
goodies included. Sure, there are worn out junk machines on the used market,
so you have to know what to look for there. It's not an automatic slam dunk
that all used machines are better than all new 3 in 1 machines.
If you bought new Grizzly equipment, you could get a small mill/drill machine
and a modest size lathe for $5,000 including shipping. If you decide you really
have to have one, stick with either the smithy or the Shoptask. Many of the
off brands are junk. Some of them can't even cut threads, which is a key
function of a lathe. HTH, - Troy
Dear Editor,
Personally, it has been my experience that no one, unless you
are a "hobbyist",
should use one of these machines. They are fine for very small parts only,
and parts made of either plastics, brass, or aluminum. Why? They cut really
fast, easily, and require no specialized tooling. No extreme pressures, but
the speeds are up there, about 1,200-1,800 rpm.
It all comes down to one word: Rigidity! If it isn't
solid, you have wasted time, money and energy. You cannot get gold, from junk.
1) A lathe was made to turn 'rounds', period.
You can dress them up with a number of additions, to make a lot of items not
easily made by the lathe itself. (everything you do, costs more money!)
2) Mills are what they are, and anyone that has ever operated one, knows what's
their most important feature/factor.
Not just weight, but the rigidity of the entire unit, from the "quill" to
the bed, to the knee, (if it's that type of mill).
You cannot do much with a small lightweight machine, it's like trying to mill
on a drill press! (It just Won't work!)
Like I said, those smaller combination units may work ok, but not for
any serious metal turning or milling, especially of steels. It is comparable
to soldering-versus-MIG or TIG welding!
You have to have the right machine for the correct operation.
I own a "very well used" circa 1939 metal lathe, belt driven, 9-12" swing,
and 32" length material capacity. Geared head and has a range of 12 speeds.
It still, holds within .002"-.005" accuracy, and I've never "adjusted" it
so far.
It weighs in at 400+ lbs. With the small 3/4 horse 115 volt ac motor, it can
make anything I want it to. It only cost me $800!
(With that being said, 1 collet chuck cost me $600, alone! Then there were
the collet sets and such, as well as the replacement 3 and 4 jaw chucks that
ran around $280 each) Not cheap to get into, and not for just anyone! If
you don't know what you are doing, in this area, then get some knowledgeable
help!
BTW: they can, and they do, tear people up, if you make "1" single
mistake!
Stay away from a lot of imported stuff, unless you know it's a real "brand
name" that you can easily get parts and tooling for .
A machinist friend of mine bought a "Jet" lathe a few years back,
then discovered it was smaller than what he thought...It had a swing of only
3 1/2 " and a material capacity of 11-3/4 ".
He paid over $600 for it, and it only weighed about 45-47 lbs! It was great
, if you were making model aircraft or train components... He has it sitting
on
his
desk, as it's only 18" long, and makes an interesting
paperweight!
Look for the stability, and "serviceability" of the tools you select
for the "proper" job.
In other words don't use a chisel in place of a screwdriver, and vice-versa!
There are quite a few older models out there today, and...not all Chinese made
tools are that bad either.
For example, a mill I used a lot in aerospace manufacturing , was an old "MaxMill",
a big old "boat-anchor", that wouldn't quit. The writing on it's
electric motor was in Chinese, and I never did know much about it! We also
had an "X-Cello". (I have no clue [about its origins],) but it was
a good solid machine!
For "our" lathes, nearly all were made in China, as the really older
ones made in Japan were deceased by then. My personal favorite was the "WEBB" or "Takisawa" (same
same), the guys in the shop called it the "widow maker"...It had
a broken detent, that allowed it to drop into crossfeed mode at it's own whim.
Once it was repaired, I'd have paid $5,000 for that old junker! (Cost to
replace the detent: $0.10).
Note: Most of the older DOD contract requirements mandated that any
part made for them or by use in any military equipment, had to be made on a
machine
based
in the
United States only!
That meant out of our shop's six mills, we could only use three of them (the
Bridgeport's) and of our lathes we could only use one, the "Hardinge".
(A nice toy if you have the money.).
That included all manual mills lathes and all CNC machines. We had machines
from Germany, Holland, China,and Japan.
Today, thousands of these older 'dinosaurs', are on the market... You can get
an older "Southbend Lathe", for a song and a dance, and
with all the tooling! You'll need a lot of guys and maybe a forklift to move
it though! Bridegports are the same way!
Stay away from all of the CNC machines, unless you know programming!
In the machining business, you have to figure it this way: "Weight is
equal to quality and accuracy"! - Bill in Phoenix
Jim,
Go to Sherline.com. They are the best American-made machines
(for lower cost) available. Their only limitation is [their small] size, which
is true of any machine. - Mr.
XYZ Axes
Mr. Rawles,
Any multi-task machine is a trade off. They do nothing well,but do save space.
When ShopSmith brought out theirs in the early 1970s, I saw many demos and
was about to buy one. I am glad I didn't.Wood or metal working is the same
basic concept.
I would recommend that a person buy the tool they need most and add "toys" later.
If you need a mill, buy a mill. But if you only do a little mill work but do
a lot of drilling, get the best drill press available. You can put an end mill
in a drill press chuck and do light milling. See my point. As for things made
in China, almost all tools that have a high cast content like vices, anvils,
clamps, drill presses, and such have been made in China or India for over twenty
years. One good place to find tools and machinery is school district auctions.
They upgrade the shops from time to time. Also, government auctions are worth
looking into. I know the depot in Columbus, Ohio has had some good deals recently.
It's a sad state of affairs that our government lets this happen since China
will not let an item be sold there that's not made there. Then they scream protectionism
if we add a tariff or restriction.
Thank you for your blog, it is very good. - BKM
James:
Grizzly.com industrial has good quality stuff from taiwan, including
mill/lathes 3 in 1s
Smithy.com has been around a long while. (only 3 in1s) (made in China)
Sherline.com is from USA but they are specialized for tiny things.
kbctools.com has Chinese stuff, but is better than nothing, they have good
customer service.
STAY AWAY FROM HARBOR FREIGHT! Most everything they sell is
shifty shady and breaks fast. (it is soooo tempting though) I haven't used
their machine tools,
but to their credit, I have seen their smallest mill in three separate catalogs.
Harbor Freight micrometers have some merit. My machine shop teacher had a few
sets,
but when things really needed to be precise he whipped out his Etalon
micrometers.
I have been disappointed by every purchase from Harbor Freight I've made. I
stopped buying from them awhile ago.
If two is one and one is none, [when buying from] Harbor Freight [, the ratio]
is 10 is one and 9 is none.
Real machine shops give a wiiiide berth to the multifunction machines.
It's like the AR-15 with every attachment you can think of . They get in each
others way.
But they're much better than nothing.
Mainland China and Taiwan are the most common machine tool builders. Korea
and Japan make better ones--and of those, Japan the best. Germany makes them
too (real good). Italy a
few.
Basic machine tools from the USA no longer exist. Only the super precision,
extremely large, specialized, and a few CNC.
Again, Moore, Hardinge, HAAS Sandvik. Moore machines can cost millions, Hardinge/Bridgeport
cost tens of thousands (not pure USA either) and HAAS is only CNC, (great machines
though--when they break, their software tells you what to fix!) Sandvik is
super specialized.
Get used to working High Speed Steel. (HSS) It is more robust and cheaper than
carbide, it does fine. It just likes slower speeds.
Dig through this
Thomas link, and you'll find next to nothing in USA-built
machines.
Measuring:
Kannon is a good middle of the road (hard to find)
Fowler is hit and miss (mostly hit), but reasonably priced
Mitutoyo (expensive), Starrett, Brown and Sharpe, and Etalon (expensive). You
get what you pay for with these.
Stay away from any plastic/fiberglass/resin measuring devices. they loose accuracy
fast when temperature changes. - Tantalum Tom
James
To the reader in Hawaii looking for a 3 in 1 machines, he might check out Grizzly.com.
They have four different machines listed in their 2008 catalog. I bought
a Shoptask 3 in 1 machines about 12 years ago. The he lathe part of it
is fine, but the mill leaves a lot to be desired and I have had to repair
the multi position switches several times. I am not a machinist, but a master
machinist
has thought me the basics and beyond over the years. I still use the Shoptask,
but I also needed larger machines. Bridegport machines were out of the question
as simply too expensive for just hobby work. In my search several years ago
I found Grizzly.
The main reason I went with Grizzly is that they make large
machines in 220 V single phase. Most other companies that sold similar machines
of those larger sizes were all 3 phase motors and I didn't have 3 phase and
I didn't want to buy a phase-o-matic system to convert from 3 phase to single
phase. I have a 14" x 40" lathe and a 2 h.p. horizontal/vertical
mill with a 9-1/2" x 39-3/8" table. Both machines are outstanding.
I also liked Grizzly because it is a large company, with help line, and replacement
parts are no problem. I am not affiliated with Grizzly. I just like their
products. I have also bought a large wood planer and a large joiner from
Grizzly. Again, they have outstanding pieces of machinery, but it is made
in China. -Regards, - John in Montana
JWR;
As a non-professional amateur hobby pseudo-machinist that likes to play
with machinery. My suggestion is don't buy a 3-in 1 unless you have very little
space or will do very little machining. I know there are many that won't agree
with me. The problem is you will have a project set up and then want to work
on something else. then you will loose the first set-up to make another set-up.
I started with a 6" Atlas lathe 30 years ago and used a hand held drill.
later was added a new bench top drill press (Taiwan built) then 4 years later
I found a 16" Jet mill/drill that came from a burned-down fabricating
shop. I've since added a 13" Enco lathe (Taiwan built) and many Taiwan
and Chinese made add-ons. They are not the highest quality tools but they are
what I can
afford. I did add a strong magnet to the lathe gear box to catch chip. Without
imports, I and a lot of others could not afford this type of machine. I have
had to redesign some things on the machines but the machines allow me to do
it.
Don't get me wrong, I would have a Bridgeport and an American made lathe and
drill press if I could afford it.
Keep in mind, a lathe is the only machine capable of reproducing itself. It
can drill, mill, bore and turn metals and wood. The skill and imagination of
the operator is what determines what it can do.
Used machines do sometimes become available, both import and domestic. A lot
have been abused, some well cared for. If space is not a concern then consider
separate machines, and take care of them. - Frank from Indiana
JWR Replies: The current economic downturn will mean that
hundreds of small prototype and production machine shops will go out of business
in the next two to five years, particularly in and around Detroit, Michigan.
There will be some genuine
bargains found at auction. Watch your local sale papers closely. Some high
quality US and German machine tools, bits, dies, jigs, brakes and so forth
may sell
for pennies on the dollar!
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Letter Re: Some Preparedness Lessons Learned
James,
The need for usable skills in tough times, goes without need for embellishment.
The grand question is: which skills are the most valuable? In any situation
the basic needs are obvious – food, shelter, and clothing. Choosing what
I would concentrate on learning, became predicated on what I could do, and
what the community could provide in stressful times.
I moved some time ago from the gulf coast to Tennessee to retire and begin
preparing for the coming events. I moved into a community which is pretty much
self sufficient, mostly by religious choice. Livestock husbandry ranges from
cattle (mostly for milk), goats to chickens, hogs and horses.
I began to raise goats several years ago, starting with Boer cross. After several
discussions I have crossed them with a strain of milk goat to reduce the size
(and therefore the quantity of meat to be preserved) and gain the benefit of
milk products. I researched the process of cheese making and using products initially
supplied from New England Cheese Makers, learned the processes. It was very interesting
to discover that the rennin (for assisting in cheese making) actually comes from
the stomach of ruminators, another by product of the goats.
Preserving meats became my next concern. When talking to many folks, they believe
that they will just run out and kill fresh meat when needed. Not only will the
game be decimated in no time, but without a method of preservation it is wasteful.
Preferred methods around here are smoking, honey and salt boxes for curing and
preserving. The use of honey as a preservative turns out to be one of the very
best. Honey has a natural bacteria inhibitor, and curing smoked meats in honey
just makes life better. This in turn has determined the need for bees – My
neighbor already has a couple of hives which produces enough for now. The use
of honey reduces the dependence on obtaining sources of salt. In addition they
are many maple trees in the area which folks tap during the winter and early
spring. Many families have ponds a raise fish, which are canned by cold packing
or salting and drying.
Having fresh water is a paramount concern. Even with a spring the water quality
can change with the amount of rain causing algae blooms. These can range for
digestive distress to just foul taste. The stream water cannot be used without
treatment, as we have otters, beavers, coyote, foxes, and a whole range of other
critters, so amoeba type problems are probable. Boiling water is the surest,
but is often not the most practical. Any numbers of excellent water filters are
available, but the Big Berky is the most popular here. In any case the water
has to be pre-filtered to remove organic matter. This can be done by straining
through
a clean cloth, then passing through/over a disinfecting agent such as a silver
compound, or the addition of non-detergent bleach. The next best is a cistern
collecting rain fall, but even this can have issues as it tends to clean smoke
dust and pollen from the air on its way down.
As for the vegetable gardens the goats do help with the fertilizer which is composted
and added to the garden. The area I live in is pretty much a “rock farm” so
there is a constant need to remove the rocks from the garden areas and add in
soil from the hills behind us. This soil is usually pretty acidic with all of
the hardwood trees. Most folks use lime from the feed stores – haven’t
found a good substitute yet.
Clothing is one of the details that I have struggled with. The ability to produce
cloth is beyond most of us. Wool makes for great outer wear, but lousy underwear.
Goat hair can be made into quite durable garments, somewhat at the expense of
comfort. We have chose to use GI surplus wool socks, sweaters, BDUs
(because they are very durable) and purchase and store long and regular underwear.
We
do have a real cobbler in the community that does make very nice shoes/boots,
but I still have a back up pair. Many women here weave or quilt (using discarded
clothing as well as new cloth). I do keep some “unisex” clothing
on hand for whomever – mostly in the form of overalls. They are fairly
cheap and commonly worn in the area, and during the cold weather are an additional
layer. We have had most days at or below freezing and night down to zero. I have
looked into tanning leather – it is a noxious process and can be done.
I am choosing to have the hides tanned while I still can and store them against
the future need as clothing.
Our cabin is solid cedar timbers, and smells great! The downside is that there
is a constant need to stay on top of the chinking and calking, to reduce drafts – I’ve
used 22 tubes already this winter. We thought that pellet stove would be a great
idea – wrong. First it requires electricity. With the
power out you have to fire up the generator which is noisy and uses expensive
fuel. Second the stove
can burn corn or compressed hardwood pellets. Corn is food or the animals and
us, and tough enough to grow enough as is. Besides using the corn leaves the
odor of burned popcorn as exhaust. Compressed wood pellets are used on an average
of 80# per day at a cost of ~$9.00 / day. Pulling the stove this spring and going
to a straight quality wood burning stove that can be used to cook on. To back
up a wood burning stove an axe, buck saw, splitting wedges or a maul, and or
chain saw are required based on how much free time you can devote to it. Setting
aside wood requires a year round effort to keep from killing yourself. Although
we have electricity I do have a pitcher pump ready to install in the event it
is needed. And have simple kerosene lanterns for light. I prefer the straight
wick models, as the mantels have become very had to come by recently.
Health concerns in rural living also means, that you have to have a working knowledge
of first aid and basic medicine. The Red Cross has good courses on first aid
and the older Boy Scout manuals give an acceptable knowledge as well. Around
here there is a good deal of herbal medicine practiced. This is good for preventive
and minor issues. I have chosen to invest in some older college texts on anatomy,
physiology, and pharmacology, and a physician’s desk reference. These books
help in diagnosing, but will be of minimal help if/when the main line drugs are
not available. They are great for showing how to stitch and bandage wounds more
severe than the first aid books cover. We keep a well stocked medicine chest
with off the shelf medicines, and rotate them as needed. As we find local remedies
that are effective, we also include them (i.e. willow bark tea as a substitute
for aspirin).
I have learned rudimentary blacksmith skills, and collected some of the tools
as well as books on the subject. I can fashion horseshoes, wheel rims, forge
weld, make cut nails and a few other tasks as required. There are many better
skilled in this community and it will be more time efficient to trade/buy their
services.
I have a full time gunsmithing business which has been sorely needed in this
area – seems like everyone has one that they need fixed. So much for a
retirement business….
The acquisition of books, and how to reading material can spell the difference
between existence and some degree of comfort. In addition it is my considered
opinion the education of young people is severely unbalanced. The possession
of text books, classics, and recreational reading allows one to educate children
when contact is limited. The community has a long history of home schooling.
These kids routinely pass the high school exit exams (same tests as the state
requires for graduation) with higher scores, and at an earlier age. Most parents
seek out folks whom are well versed to teach the children. Oh yea, one by product
is that the kids are very respectful, and thoughtful.
In conclusion I thought that preparation for tougher times meant more beans,
bullets, and bullion. As it turns out, the retraining of my mind and attitudes
has presented the larger challenge. Understanding how you store food, is nearly
as important as what you store. What you can make is as important as what you
can do without (toilet paper?) Knowing that one person cannot do all that is
required, only means that you learn the skills to assist your community which
will supplement everyone’s survival/ quality of life. I thought that being
retired would allow me to kick back and enjoy some good libations. It has turned
out to be the greatest learning curve of my life – and I love it. Jim’s
preparedness course is a great place to start. But the real preparedness is in
the doing! - Dennis S.
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Depression Proof Jobs for a 20 Year Depression - Part 2: Developing a Home-Based Business
Yesterday, in Part1, I discussed the "safe" and counter-cyclical occupations
for the unfolding economic depression. Today, I'd like to talk about one specific
approach:
self-employment
with a home-based business.
I posted most the following back in late 2005, but there are some important
points that are worth repeating:
The majority of SurvivalBlog readers that I talk with tell
me that they live in cities or suburbs, but they would like to live full
time at a retreat in a rural area. Their complaint is almost always the same: "...but
I'm not self-employed. I can't afford to live in the country because I can't
find work there, and the nature of my work doesn't allow telecommuting." They
feel stuck.
Over the years I've seen lots of people "pull the plug" and
move to the boonies with the hope that they'll find local work once
they get there. That usually doesn't work. Folks soon find that the most
rural jobs typically pay little more than minimum wage and they are often
informally
reserved for folks that were born and raised in the area. (Newcomers from
the big city certainly don't have hiring priority!)
My suggestion is to start a second income stream, with a
home-based business. Once you have that business started, then
start another one. There are numerous advantages to this
approach, namely:
You can get out of debt
You can generally build the businesses up gradually, so
that you don't need to quit your current occupation immediately
By working at home you will have the time to home school your children and
they will learn about how to operate a business.
You can live at your retreat full time. This will contribute to your self-sufficiency,
since you will be there to tend to your garden, fruit/nut trees, and livestock.
If one of your home-based businesses fails, then you can fall back on the
other.
Ideally, for someone that is preparedness-minded, a home-based business should
be something that is virtually recession proof, or possibly even depression
proof. Ask yourself: What are you good at? What knowledge or skills
do you have that you can utilize. Next, consider which businesses will flourish
during bad times. Some good examples might include:
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctioning of preparedness-related products.
Locksmithing
Gunsmithing
Medical Transcription
Accounting
Repair/refurbishment businesses
Freelance writing
Blogging (with paid advertising) If you have knowledge about a niche industry
and there is currently no authoritative blog on the subject, then start your
own!
Mail order/Internet sales of entertainment items. (When times get bad, people
still set aside a sizable percentage of their income for "escape" from
their troubles. For example, video rental shops have done remarkably well
during recessions.)
Burglar Alarm Installation
Other home-based businesses that seem to do well only in
good economic times include:
Recruiting/Temporary Placement
Fine arts, crafts, and jewelry. Creating and marketing your own designs--not "assembly" for
some scammer. (See below.)
Mail order/Internet sales/eBay Auctions of luxury items, collectibles, or
other "discretionary spending" items
Personalized stationary and greeting cards (Freelance artwork)
Calligraphy
Web Design
Beware the scammers! The fine folks at www.scambusters.org have
compiled a "Top 10" list of common work-at-home and home based business scams
to beware of:
10. Craft Assembly
This scam encourages you to assemble toys, dolls, or other craft projects
at home with the promise of high per-piece rates. All you have to do is
pay
a fee up-front for the starter kit... which includes instructions and parts.
Sounds good? Well, once you finish assembling your first batch of crafts,
you'll be told by the company that they "don't meet our specifications."
In fact, even if you were a robot and did it perfectly, it would be impossible
for you to meet their specifications. The scammer company is making money selling
the starter kits -- not selling the assembled product. So, you're left with
a set of assembled crafts... and no one to sell them to.
9. Medical Billing
In this scam, you pay $300-$900 for everything (supposedly) you need to start
your own medical billing service at home. You're promised state-of-the-art
medical billing software, as well as a list of potential clients in your
area.
What you're not told is that most medical clinics process their own bills,
or outsource the processing to firms, not individuals. Your software may
not meet their specifications, and often the lists of "potential clients" are
outdated or just plain wrong.
As usual, trying to get a refund from the medical billing company is like trying
to get blood from a stone.
8. Email Processing
This is a twist on the classic "envelope stuffing scam" (see #1 below).
For a low price ($50?) you can become a "highly-paid" email processor
working "from the comfort of your own home."
Now... what do you suppose an email processor does? If you have visions of
forwarding or editing emails, forget it. What you get for your money are instructions
on spamming the same ad you responded to in newsgroups and Web forums!
Think about it -- they offer to pay you $25 per e-mail processed -- would any
legitimate company pay that?
7. "A List of Companies Looking for Homeworkers!"
In this one, you pay a small fee for a list of companies looking for homeworkers
just like you.
The only problem is that the list is usually a generic list of companies, companies
that don't take homeworkers, or companies that may have accepted homeworkers
long, long ago. Don't expect to get your money back with this one.
6. "Just Call This 1-900 Number For More Information..."
No need to spend too much time (or money) on this one. 1-900 numbers cost money
to call, and that's how the scammers make their profit. Save your money --
don't call a 1-900 number for more information about a supposed work-at-home
job.
5. Typing At Home
If you use the Internet a lot, then odds are that you're probably a good
typist. How better to capitalize on it than making money by typing at home?
Here's
how it works: After sending the fee to the scammer for "more information," you
receive a disk and printed information that tells you to place home typist
ads and sell copies of the disk to the suckers who reply to you. Like #8,
this scam tries to turn you into a scammer!
4. "Turn Your Computer Into a Money-Making Machine!"
Well, this one's at least half-true. To be completely true, it should read: "Turn
your computer into a money-making machine... for spammers!"
This is much the same spam as #5, above. Once you pay your money, you'll
be sent instructions on how to place ads and pull in suckers to "turn
their computers into money-making machines."
3. Multi-Level Marketing (MLM)
If you've heard of network marketing (like Amway), then you know that there
are legitimate MLM businesses based on agents selling products or services.
One big problem with MLMs, though, is when the pyramid and the ladder-climbing
become more important than selling the actual product or service. If the
MLM business opportunity is all about finding new recruits rather than selling
products or services, beware: The Federal Trade Commission may consider it
to be a pyramid scheme... and not only can you lose all your money, but you
can be charged with fraud, too!
We saw an interesting MLM scam recently: one MLM company advertised the
product they were selling as FREE. The fine print, however, states that
it is "free
in the sense that you could be earning commissions and bonuses in excess of
the cost of your monthly purchase of" the product. Does that sound like
free to you?
2. Chain Letters/Emails ("Make Money Fast")
If you've been on the Internet for any length of time, you've probably received
or at least seen these chain emails. They promise that all you have to
do is send the email along plus some money by mail to the top names on
the list,
then add your name to the bottom... and one day you'll be a millionaire.
Actually, the only thing you might be one day is prosecuted for fraud.
This is a classic pyramid scheme, and most times the names in the chain
emails
are manipulated to make sure only the people at the top of the list (the
true scammers) make any money. This scam should be called "Lose Money
Fast" -- and it's illegal.
1. Envelope Stuffing
This is the classic work-at-home scam. It's been around since the U.S. Depression
of the 1920s and 1930s, and it's moved onto the Internet like a cockroach
you just can't eliminate. There are several variations, but here's a sample:
Much like #5 and #4 above, you are promised to be paid $1-2 for every envelope
you stuff. All you have to do is send money and you're guaranteed "up
to 1,000 envelopes a week that you can stuff... with postage and address
already affixed!" When you send your money, you get a short manual
with flyer templates you're supposed to put up around town, advertising
yet another
harebrained work-from-home scheme. And the pre-addressed, pre-paid envelopes?
Well, when people see those flyers, all they have to do is send you $2.00
in a pre-addressed, pre-paid envelope. Then you stuff that envelope with
another flyer and send it to them. Ingenious perhaps... but certainly illegal
and unethical.
From all that I've heard, most franchises and multi-level marketing schemes
are not profitable unless you pick a great product or service, and you
already have a strong background in sales. Beware of any franchise where you
wouldn't have a protected territory. My general advice is this: You will probably
be better off starting your own business,
making, retailing, or consulting about something where you can leverage
your existing knowledge and/or experience.
---
In closing, I'd like to reemphasize that home security and locksmithing are
likely to provide steady and profitable employment for the next few years,
since hard
economic times are likely to trigger a substantial crime wave. After
all, someone has
to keep watch on the tens of thousands of foreclosed, vacant houses. (If not
watched, then crack cocaine addicts, Chicago syndicate politicians, or other
undesirables might move in!)
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Depression Proof Jobs for a 20 Year Depression - Part 1: The Counter-Cyclical Jobs
The current economic downward spiral has prompted several SurvivalBlog readers
to write me and ask: "My job is now at risk, so what are the safe jobs?"
I've actually addressed this topic fairly well since I started SurvivalBlog
in 2005. We ran a
"best recession-proof jobs" poll, back in May
of 2006. Then, in February, 2007, we ran a
poll on "Best Occupations for Both Before and After TEOTWAWKI".
Later, we even ran a
poll on the current occupations
of SurvivalBlog readers. In the past three years, we've also
posted a panoply of more detailed employment-related letters and articles on
subjects such as:
How
to set up a home-based second business,
Bartering
skills,
Home-based
mail order businesses,
Small
sawmills,
Gunsmithing,
Handloading
ammunition,
Horse
breeding,
Rabbit
breeding,
Small
machine shops,
Selling
and bartering through Freecycle,
Selling
and bartering through Craig's List, and
19th
Century Trades.
And those were just the ones that I found in a cursory 10-minute search of
the SurvivalBlog archives. There are many more. Just type a topic
into the "Search Posts on SurvivalBlog:" box at the top of the right -hand
bar.
(We now have
nearly 6,200 archived articles,
letters, and quotes!)
Which Jobs Were Safe in the 1930s?
One good insight on the near future can be found in the past. (As Mark Twain
said, "History doesn't repeat itself, but it does rhyme.")
According to statistics
published
some 20 years ago by Dr.Ravi
Batra, the safest businesses
and industries
during
the
worst
years
of the Great
Depression
(1929-1933) were:
Repair shops
Educational services (A lot of young men that couldn't find work borrowed money
to go to trade schools and college.)
Healthcare services
Bicycle shops
Bus transportation
Gasoline service stations
Second hand stores
Legal services
Drug or proprietary stores
To bring Batra's list up to date, I would speculatively add a few more
sectors and business that are likely to do well in the next
depression:
Home security and locksmithing (since a higher crime rate is inevitable
in bad economic times.)
Entertainment and diversions, such as DVD sales and rentals. People will
undoubtedly want to escape their
troubles!
Truck farming and large scale vegetable gardening (since just 2% of the population
now feeds the other 98%--whereas back in the 1930s the US was still a predominantly
agrarian society)
Export consumer goods. (Starting in late 2009 or early 2010, the US Dollar
is likely to resume its slide versus most other currencies)
Tomorrow, I'll post Part 2 of this article, in which I will focus
on home-based businesses.
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Making the Transition to Country Life, by Bois d'Arc
Many readers of Survival Blog are either in the process of moving to a lightly
populated area or actively planning to bugout to such an area when the balloon
goes up. Twenty years ago I moved from the edge of a large city to a fairly remote
property, and have been quietly setting up the doomstead and perfecting skills
ever since. In the process, I became part of the fabric of country life here
and have learned some valuable lessons which may benefit the rookie country dweller.
Most full-time country residents are descendents of frontiersmen who ventured
into the wilderness with little more than a rifle, axe, team of horses, and a
large supply of guts. Country people hold many of the same attributes as their
forebears; competence, toughness, perseverance, and a willingness to help their
neighbors, be it for common defense or a barn raising. Many of these traits are
at odds with modern city life supported by a specialized full-time job. Your
transition to country life will be smoother if you consider the following:
Country People are Closet Doomers:
They can do lots of useful things such as shoe a horse, grow corn, weld, back
a trailer, milk a goat, make tamales, catch a wild cow, troubleshoot an electrical
problem, can a tomato, and shoot lights out. And that's just the women.
People here are armed every day as a matter of course. Most have been shooting
all of their lives, so the level of firearms proficiency is way above average.
I see lots of casual ARs and scoped bolt actions, so if my neighbors and acquaintances
are any barometer, potential rampaging MZBs are in for some exceedingly
tough sledding.
On a related note, there are a few bad apples in the country, but most tend to
migrate to the anonymity of the cities. The outlaws who remain are generally
well known to both law enforcement and the population at large, and are easy
enough to avoid once you plug into the local grapevine.
Be Scrupulously Honest:
Country people don't care that much what you think or how you wear your hair
as long as they can trust you. Lie or stiff a merchant one time and in 45 minutes
everyone in the county will know it, guaranteed.
On the flip side, if you've been given too much change or an error is made in
your favor with a bank deposit or charge purchase at a merchant, politely point
out the mistake and insist on paying the correct amount. While such a gesture
will usually be met with stunned disbelief in a large city, in the country it
will be acknowledged with a nod and sincere appreciation. And never doubt for
an instant that the country grapevine will work in your favor as the word spreads.
When I first moved here, I was able to open an account with any business in town
simply by asking if I could charge a purchase. No references, no questions, no
credit check, just an address so they could send a statement at the end of the
month. Such an accommodating policy would most certainly not have been the case
had I been late in paying those first bills.
Money is Overrated:
Country people never forget a kindness; they also rarely forget a transgression
against good manners or honesty. The most valuable commerce in the country is
not conducted in dollars but in trading, gifts, being owed a favor, and goodwill.
Become Part of the Community:
Self-sufficiency is a worthy goal, but in truth perhaps the most useful survival
skill is contributing to a community which has a stake in your well being. To
my mind, being able to call upon neighbors for specialized assistance or trade
is just as important as beans, bullets, and Band-Aids.
Schools and churches are the glue which binds a country community. If you have
children in local schools or choose to attend church, tapping into country networks
will be greatly accelerated.
Also, small communities run largely on volunteers, so consider volunteering at
the library, as a fireman, at sports fund raisers, community cleanup, or meals
on wheels. JWR Adds: If you homeschool your kids, be sure to
join the local
homeschooling "co-op" group. You will be sure to meet the preparedness-minded
folks in your community.
The Country is a Time Warp:
Time passes slower here, as it's based more on the seasons than on a clock.
Fight the city urge to hurry everywhere. Tasks are completed when time, required
supplies, and any needed help are available, and not on an arbitrary schedule.
Parts are generally not readily available as they are in a city, you might have
to order a particular part and wait days or weeks for it to arrive, and perhaps
have to improvise in the meantime.
The two main time-related lessons you’ll learn is that weather can throw
a kink into any plan, and maintaining household water supply trumps almost every
other concern. You’ll soon adopt a mañana attitude about
most other projects, as there is always plenty more to be done while waiting
for specific parts or
supplies.
Slow down enough to take time to talk about the weather, trade recipes, talk
gardening, help a neighbor with a project, and to watch a sunset.
Seek Out Those with Useful Skills Now:
Country life requires a generalist rather than a specialist, so trading your
particular skills – whether carpentry, electrical expertise, or knowing
what’s wrong with a row of beans - with neighbors in exchange for their
skills just makes sense. In fact, there is even a term here, “neighboring”,
which refers to a group effort of working each landowner’s livestock in
turn without hiring outside help.
I have also become acquainted with various people who have huge gardens or dairy
goats or sheep or hogs or teams of horses and mules or a small band saw mill
for
making lumber. Such people often don’t advertise and they may be hard to
find, but the search is potentially of huge benefit to the astute survivalist.
As an example, there is a man here who has an old steam-powered grain mill. Another
has a tiny combine for harvesting wheat and oats in the scattered small plots
where it is grown in this area. Up until now, I haven’t used their unique
services, but still make it a point to give these men a quart of honey from our
hives every summer.
You will choose to help many of these people in time of trouble, just as they
will choose to help you, but in the meantime always exercise OPSEC about your
underlying motivations and preps. Country people have a wide independent streak
so your desire to be more self-sufficient will never seem out of place.
Country People are Provincial:
But largely by choice, which doesn't mean they are stupid or uninformed. The
vast majority are Internet savvy and many are exceptionally well-traveled and
well-read. More than a few have made the decision to leave a lucrative city existence
in exchange for country life. The level of overall awareness is high, so you'll
hear more commonsense over a cup of coffee than you'll ever hear from Washington.
A few recent quotes I’ve heard regarding our current economic meltdown:
“I was going to sell all of my calves last fall but held back four in case
my
freezers start to look empty.”
“We’re breaking some new garden ground this spring, going to plant
a lot
more potatoes than we usually do.”
"I bought two more cases of .223 ammo, just in case the rabbits go on the
warpath.” Listen and learn.
Never Underestimate the Amount of Work Involved:
Few farms or ranches here are entirely self-supporting, with one or both spouses
usually working a “regular” job. The pay scale is considerably lower
than in a city, so often people work two or even three jobs in order to live
well. This is in addition to farming and working livestock on their own places.
People work hard, and that’s in relatively good times.
If this economy continues to unravel, more subsistence-level farming and ranching
may well become the norm, and that’s when the work really begins. Growing
and processing most or all of your own food requires a tremendous amount of labor
and expertise, with constant effort from everyone involved. Have no illusions
about some idyllic country life of sitting on the porch all day, chewing on a
grass stem while contemplating the vista. The trick for making subsistence agriculture
work is for everyone to always be doing something constructive, whether it’s
hoeing weeds in the garden, building a chicken coop, shelling beans, cleaning
a firearm, playing with a toddler, or rereading one of your how-to books.
With that said, no family or survival group can possibly be competent at all
of the skills required. This is when being on good terms with neighbors becomes
essential; give them half of a fresh beef now for the cheese they can provide
later on; the pickles you made are a fair trade for his baskets of peaches; your
stash of supplies may well allow you to trade for a rooster and five hens (along
with some expert advice on getting started); if you can provide the diesel, your
neighbor might plow your garden plot after your tractor has thrown a rod. - Bois
d'Arc
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Letter Re: Gaining Situational Awareness and Old-Time Knowledge
Jim,
Situational Awareness has a number of definitions, from the rather complex
to the "simple". They include:
- The process of recognizing a threat at an early stage and taking measures
to avoid it. (Being observant of one's surroundings and dangerous situations
is
more an attitude or mindset than it is a hard skill.)
- The ability to maintain
a constant, clear mental picture of relevant information and the tactical
situation including friendly and threat situations as well
as terrain.
- Knowing what is going on so you can figure out what to do.
- What you need to know not to be surprised.
This comes to mind because of my recent reading of your novel, "Patriots".
(An excellent book. A must have for any "prepper".) The book
is primarily about a group of people who joined together to survive in the "days
after". The daily requirements of surviving in times of roving bands of
criminals and martial law enforcers were covered rather forcefully. Many of the
challenges they faced required an armed response, and situational awareness was
often discussed. For the kinds of situations in which the "Patriot" folks
found themselves, the extremely helpful explanations of such matters as OPSEC and
LP/OPs are very helpful to anyone facing what is soon coming for many of
us.
As the book describes, situational awareness is absolutely vital to survival
and success in our near future.
But, while situational awareness is most commonly thought of as a conflict skill,
there are also other kinds of situational awareness. On Yahoo Groups, there is
a discussion group about surviving in the days after. One of the most prolific
writers has several times recently warned the readers to "Get out of the
cities now !". He's even suggested moving to very unpopulated areas and
using wood pallets to erect shacks. IMHO, this is a suggestion that will cause
many people great harm. Folks, with little or no preparations, suddenly moving
to the land to escape the "Golden
Horde", will likely fail or die.
Just reading the stories of the many pioneers who moved west, will quickly sober
you up from any "can do/don't know" thinking.
I have lived nearly all my life on a farm. I have developed a deep knowledge
of the land. It has come at the great expense of many missteps, failures, successes,
hard work and time. I call it having situational awareness of the environment.
I know what certain kinds of clouds mean when forecasting tomorrow's weather.
I know that the vine-like plants with three shiny leaves aren't so good to eat
or touch. I know a dead snake can still bite. People just coming to the land
for
the first
time will have little of that knowledge.
For untold years and many generations, the knowledge of how to live on the land
and be self-sufficient was passed down thru families. In farm country, school
was often found at the back fence. If you or your Grandfather didn't know something,
the farmer next door often did. I remember many times in my youth when I'd be
out working the land and the guy next door would be out on his. Often as not,
we'd stop and stand by the line fence and talk. ...And I learned lots. But, now,
much of this passing on of knowledge is lost. Farmers more commonly sit 12 feet
in the air, driving an air conditioned combine, following the turns suggested
by the GPS receiver
on the dash. Your parents most likely worked in a factory
or
a
shop, than on a farm. What was common family knowledge just a couple generations
ago,
such as maple syrup making, canning, gardening, butchering, animal husbandry,
etc., etc., is gone. The "chain" is broken. Without
this great deal of passed on knowledge and experience, nearly any farm endeavor
can, and often
will, lead to unexpected disaster.
This is where Situational Awareness comes in. "The need to know, so as not
to be surprised." The list is endless, but for starters:
- Knowing the good bugs from the bad in the garden
- Knowing fresh horse manure
will kill a garden, fresh chicken m. will help
- Knowing only 3 or 4 ounces
of yew leaves--a common landscape plant in much of
the US--can kill a horse
- Knowing how to split wood so that the axe won't
glance off and chop your leg
- Knowing that burning certain kinds of wood in
your wood stove means you need to clean the chimney twice a winter so you
don't burn down your house [with a chimney fire]
- Knowing the nice, fresh,
clean, free flowing, mountain stream may be full of giardia.
- Knowing that,
when plowing with a horse, you should never tie the reins together and put
them around behind your back so your hands are free to handle
the plow.
(This was the way it was done in the novel "Dies the Fire" [by
S.M. Stirling).
If your horse happens to shy and takes off running, you will be dragged along
the ground
and be seriously hurt. The proper way to plow is with the reins over one
shoulder and under the other. Then, if your horse runs, you just duck your
head and
the reins slide off.
- Knowing that crows in the garden are bad because they
eat the new planted seeds, but crows around your chicken coop are good
because they keep away
the hawks
that will eat your chickens.
- Knowing that if your tractor suddenly starts
making a new sound, this is not good. Stop immediately and figure out what's
going on, before something
breaks.
- Learning to look around you when walking, instead of only staring
at the ground for
your next step, (as most people do).
And on it goes. I have lived decades on the land. There's not a day goes by
that I don't learn something. But even with all my handed down knowledge and
hard-fought
experiences, I'm not even sure I could make a go of suddenly heading out
to the "country" to build a cabin and barn, till the soil, cut fire
wood, store food for man and beast, and more. It's just awful hard without lots
of prep's. And I can tell you, without an extensive knowledge of what the "environment" around
you is telling you, it's darn near impossible. ...(Taking a walk in the woods
can hurt just as much as a walk on certain inner city streets.)
So what are you to do ? Well, having a "G.O.O.D." bag
and great escape vehicle is a start. Having supplies, tools and seed already
in place really helps.
But once you get to your retreat site, have a plan, have some knowledge of how
to do, what to do. Practice now. If you think you're going to learn while living
in a wood pallet shack, you won't. You'll most likely die. If there's no more
Elders to ask, get to know the other "elders"--books.
Go to local farms and ask to spend time just helping, so you can learn something.
Go to a school to
learn skills; like tracking, orienteering and fire building without matches;
(one of the best, imo, is Midwest Native Skills Institute). Never take charcoal
or
lighter fluid on a picnic, learn to gather what burns. Go camping in winter,
instead of just when it is "pretty" outside. Find a "big animal" vet.
and ask to attend and help when birthing a calf. Most especially, turn off your
tv. Use your time to learn to sew, or knit, or make soap. Pick up (fresh) dead
animals on the road and practice skinning them and then tan the hide. [JWR
Adds: Needless to say, consult your state Fish and Game laws before
doings
so!]
Find
local crafts people
and
acquire
a
skill,
such
as
weaving,
or
candle
making,
or
tin
smithing, because having a survival trade in a cashless society may keep you
alive. Learn to listen. Throw away those darn ear plug music things. Learn situational
awareness. What is the wind telling you about the day ? What does the sudden
and not normal crowing of a rooster warn you of ? What does the setting of the
moon in a certain place on the horizon tell you about the season ?
Learn what it takes to live on the land, before you have to suddenly move there.
Learn what nature, the land, and new tasks are telling you, before you find yourself
in a difficult situation, ...(un)aware.
- Jim Fry, Curator, Museum of Western
Reserve Farms & Equipment, Ohio
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Two Letters Re: Alaska as a Retreat Locale »
Four Letters Re: Preparedness Through Tapping in to the Craig's List Culture
Sir;
By way of profession, I am a CPA (M.S. in Taxation), economic survivalist
by persuasion. One thing you may want to caution readers about is the Internal
Revenue Services' position on bartering income. Always, always, always talk
to a competent tax advisor regarding your particular situation. Under the current
administration, self-sufficiency activities such as bartering with others for
services or goods may be considered a reportable and taxable activity on the
part of both parties.
Just a "heads up" to all, we all want to stay within the letter of
the law. Thanks for the listen - C.
Sir,
Craigslist can be frustrating, for example, you see a super deal, you
call early, have the cash and can buy now, but the seller says, "well,
some guy called at 6 a.m. and is coming to buy it this Sunday. Sorry." Out
of politeness, you didn't want to call at 6 am, but because you didn't, you
lost the ability to buy the item because the seller is a "first call-first
serve" seller, and not a "first cash-first serve" seller.
On the other hand, it is irritating when you set an appointment, spend $20
on diesel to drive to the seller's home, and arrive to find someone else loading
the item in his truck. Maybe sellers ought to put a Terms-of-Service in their
ads! (I personally am a First-Cash seller, but cancel later appointments immediately
upon sale). - Willow, in Texas
Jim:
[Because of their posting rules], one must be very circumspect in listing
or putting a "Want to Buy" (WTB) ad on Craigslist.com if
it concerns guns, ammunition, or reloading.
They will delete your posting in a "New York Minute". - D.O.
JWR Replies: I've seen the same thing happen, many times. Do
not mention firearms in the title line of any Craigslist post, even
if you live in an ultra-conservative state like Wyoming. Some hoplophobic do-gooder
will indeed zap your post almost immediately. I've heard that it is best
to "bury " mention of your willingness to swap "sporting goods" in
posts on other topics. For those that specifically want to trade a firearm
or ammunition, I recommend advertising on a regional gun board, such as the
Northwest Firearms Board. , or in one of the many local newspapers or
advertising giveaway papers (such as the "Nickel" and "Penny
Saver" type papers) that offer free or low-cost classified ads.
Mr. Rawles:
Even though Craigslist does
not allows firearms and ammunition advertisements, it is still beneficial sure
to check the Sporting Goods section. In my my local
Craigslist there are "47 speed bicycles, AK brand", and similar items regularly
for sale. - J.M.
« Three Letters Re: The Community Retreat |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Preparedness Through Tapping in to the Craig's List Culture: Doing Well by Doing Good, by D.S.
I do not consider myself an expert on Craigslist.org.
However, I do cruise our local Craigslist several times a day as I am fascinated
with
what people are buying, looking for and selling. It helps me keep a pulse
on our local economy that I don't get through the Mainstream Media.
To that point, I have noticed a strong uptick, since the New Year, of people
selling anything of value that they can. This tells me people are really starting
to hurt from this incipient Economic Depression.
On items I have an interest in I call or e-mail to enquire. Lately, the conversation
has veered towards why folks are selling stuff. "I am getting rid of my
'stuff' as I don't know what the economy is going to do." "My husband
lost his job." "I have a small business but my clients are not paying
me what they owe me."
What has also started happening, at least from my perspective, is more and
more folks want to barter goods than simply accept cash. 120 bales of horse
hay sounds better to them than $1,200. Firewood has become huge as
a barter item as has quality hay and, of course, firearms. Quality reliable
cars for
less than $2,000 are very desirable. Items like Sterling silver tea sets and
Grandma's china are falling fast.
I am not sure when I began doing this, but in the past few months I started
offering folks alternatives to fiat money. 'Would you prefer payment in firewood,
Sir, or some other item, or is cash what you are looking for?' I had no set
protocol, I made it up as I went along, but pretty soon I started crystallizing
some thoughts on bartering on Craigslist. Here they are:
1. Say what you can do and do what you say.
2. "No, thank you." is a great response. Never be afraid to say "No" if
the deal does not work for you.
3. Craigslist is not a community in the sense that one seller does not (often)
hear directly from another on your reputation. But still, people can tell if
you are honest or are looking to skin them. Act Honorably always.
4. Get clear on what your natural assets are that you have to trade. One of
mine is firewood.
5. Timing can be everything - scan Craigslist frequently in your desired
categories since you want to be (to use an old Army Cav expression) 'the firstest
with the mostest!'
6. When I see a particularly nice item in the 'free' category I often inquire
if I might make a small charitable contribution to the charity of their choice
as appreciation of their item. I do this for one primary reason - it is the
right thing to do. It has had the ancillary benefit of having 'jumped me to
the front of the line' on some items. I offered my desire to donate to a Craigslister
for three free garage doors. He responded quickly that I was the only person
to do so, and that it touched his heart. He even delivered the doors to our
ranch (I can no longer drive as a Disabled Vet). I subsequently donated to
the local food-bank.
7. Always say please and thank you. Honest and sincere appreciation is a scarce
commodity today.
8. Never begrudge folks an honest profit. If someone makes great money from
an item you swapped or sold - congratulate them!
9. I use Ronald Reagan's motto: 'Trust, but verify.' I start off assuming I
can trust folks. But I always verify that what they are telling me is so.
10. Have fun! As long as you are helping others get what they want, you'll
likely always get what you want. That is satisfying from a
servant's heart perspective, and you meet a lot of nice people (not all though) while you are
building up your supplies and stores for your retreat.
The following are not a 'bragging' example. I hope you will simply see
these as examples of what is possible:
Four weeks ago I found a Mercedes 300TD wagon for sale ($3,000) or trade. I
enquired to see if it was still available, and to my happy surprise, it still
was. The young man (a survivalist) was moving to Belize with his wife and young
son and needed 'camping gear.' I asked what he really wanted and his reply
was 'a really good tent to live in while we build our house, and some nice
backpacks.' I have been a Boy Scout Leader for 20+ years and have way too
much camping gear. I offered him a Golite backpack (acquired from Craigslist
for
$40 - originally retailed at $190) and a [US Army surplus] GP Medium
Tent (like the tents one would see in the old television series MASH)
I paid nothing for the tent as I had bartered, through Craigslist, for two
of these GP medium tents for allowing a fellow to come hunt Elk on our property.
Very nice man, very generous, two amazing high quality canvas tents with all
the poles. As an aside, he never came to hunt though I wish he had.
As I type this, I am waiting for a fellow (a Senior NCO recently
returned from Iraq) to come over for three cords of firewood. He is giving
us two barely-used
Australian saddles and two snowmobiles. The snowmobiles may need a good cleaning
and rebuild, but I have 30 acres of dense woods that need to be cut back for
fire safety - I suspect I can find someone to help rebuild the snowmobiles
in trade for firewood.
Bear in mind, please, that I don't actually do the cutting of the firewood.
My left arm is pretty weak from nerve damage and holding a chain-saw really
hurts. So, again, I barter. If folks need wood I ask that they cut and split
a cord for me and they, may then, cut a cord for themselves. Sadly, I used
to offer firewood to folks if they'd come help me put some up. After they got
their firewood I never saw them again. So, now, I get 'paid' up front.
I may be close to closing a deal, today, for a beautiful Savage shotgun that
looks like a Browning A5. My cost? Giving the owner permission to come hunt
on our property for Elk. We both get something we really want and would be
tickled that the other loves what they get!
Reloading equipment 'grab bag' I had a gentleman over this past week looking
at antiques I had in our basement that had simply been gathering dust. He
mentioned, that right before he came over he had picked up a box of RCBS
dies (new in
the box) and three reloading presses. I swapped an antique table of my grandmother's
for the box of reloading gear. . After going through it I'll have several
dies I won't use (.243 Winchester, 7mm Mauser, etc.) that I can trade for
items
I do want (clean brass, Nosler or Barnes bullets, etc). I met the man by
looking through
Craigslist
collectibles to see who was selling items similar to what I had to sell.
Final example: A small herd of registered purebred Longhorn Cattle. A lady
listed four Longhorns for $1,300 on Craigslist. She was willing, according
to her listing, to barter for items other than cash. After talking with her
on
the phone I offered her any combination of hay, firewood, firearms,etc. The
two cows are bred and expected to calve this spring around May. So, with
items I have accumulated from others by bartering, and maybe $300 in cash,
God willing, I will own six purebred Longhorns.
I have helped others heat their house, hunt for meat for their family, feed
their livestock hay, and house their family while they build their home.
That is pretty cool! The satisfaction I receive from helping those folks
is immense.
Here is a tally of what I have received (or am about to) :
4 registered Longhorns (two due to calve)
An 1987 Mercedes 300 TD wagon
2 snowmobiles
A beautiful Savage shotgun
Reloading equipment
2 Australian saddles
Bartering is a very valuable skill to learn for a grid-down world. It is far
better to learn it now when the stakes are not nearly as high. Be
willing to make
mistakes and have fun. And please, if there are bartering skills that you
think should be mentioned to supplement those
that have already been discussed in SurvivalBlog, please e-mail them
to Jim.
Go out and barter now, and do well by doing good! - D.S.
« Letter Re: Waste Vegetable Oil for Fuel in Diesel Engines |Main| Note from JWR: »
Inflation, Taxes, and Self-Sufficiency
I recently received an e-mail from T.F. in Utah, who quipped: "They tell
us that inflation is now non-existent. Well, how many years of deflation will
it take to get prices back to where they once were? It is noteworthy that the
average annual property tax on a
house on a city lot now exceeds the entire land purchase price and construction
cost of a comparable square footage house, in 1890." Inflation is indeed
insidious. And its has implications that are far-reaching. For example, consider
the following:
Creeping tax increases one of the reasons that it is now nearly impossible
for someone to "live off the land" on small acreage.
Even if you own your house and land free and clear, property taxes are
inescapable. Thus, in "self-sufficient" mode, although you
can feed yourself, you still need a cash-earning job, just to pay the taxes.
I pray that at the far end of the coming depression, our debt money system--which
is the root of inflation--will be replaced by a system of sound currency that
is redeemable in specie. That is the only sure, long term solution
to creeping inflation, and corresponding creeping taxation.
I've mentioned this tale of woe before: Back in the 1930s,
my great grandparents lost a considerable portion of their 5,000+ acre sheep
ranch in northern California to back taxes. At the beginning of the Great
Depression they
were land rich but cash poor. But by the end of the Depression, that
had neither much money or land. (By 1942, the county had taken most of the
ranch
for back
taxes.) Although the chances of a long-lasting deflationary depression are fairly
small (since I think Helicopter
Ben will try to inflate his way out of this
mess), it is prudent to do your best to maintain a cash income to supplement
"the fat of the land", from your self-sufficient retreat. See the SurvivalBlog
Archives for some suggestions
on building up home-based businesses.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Choosing Between Roughly Comparable Retreat Locations »
Four Letters Re: A Low-Cost Route to Earning a Bachelor's Degree
James,
As the author [noted, prospective students should consider their career
plans before devoting time and money to a specific school or program, virtual
or
not. For example: I'm employed by a global Fortune 10 company and there is
a list of colleges and universities whose degrees are not sufficient
as hiring criteria regardless of accreditation. It is a good bet other large
companies have similar policies. Ditto for graduate degree programs. Depending on the school, bachelor degrees
from online schools or virtual universities may not be accepted for matriculation.
If the student plans to pursue a graduate
degree they should make sure their intended grad school will accept their undergrad
degree.
I'm not knocking virtual schools, my Bachelor's degree was obtained 100%
online as will my graduate degrees.
Obviously if the student is just getting a Bachelor's degree for the sake
of getting a degree, plans to work for smaller companies, or be a serial
entrepreneur,
which school issues the degree does not matter. However, everything comes with a price, and you get what you pay for. Choosing
the wrong virtual university could mean having to go back and get a second
Bachelor's degree before getting that job you covet or continuing on with
your education. - John T. in Michigan
Mr. Rawles,
My son came up with another method for keeping college costs down
that I don't recall having seen before: he talks instructors into letting him
skip
courses.
He was homeschooled, so had no official record of what he'd learned. When
he started college through the Running Start program (open to homeschoolers,
as
well as regular high school students, and another great way to save money!)
at age 15, he met with his future calculus professor and talked him into
letting him skip the first quarter of that subject. Later on, based on his
grades in
more advanced courses that required the one he skipped, he was given credit
for it--at no charge!
He has since talked other teachers into waiving courses that were officially
required for classes in specialized subjects he wanted to learn, picking
up any knowledge he truly needed from the prerequisites as he needed
it for
the
courses he wanted to take. He didn't get credit for any of the other classes
he didn't actually take, but did save the money and time he would have been
spent taking them. That's important both because of the time and money needed
to take the unwanted courses and because it can be difficult to fit classes
into your schedule that are only offered every year or two.
This tactic is also helpful if you don't do your full degree at the same
school. Your choices are limited if, as a newly-transferred junior, you want
to take
classes that require a course that students at your new school usually take
as freshmen. It can be hard to mesh in to a new school's program, but there
are obviously ways around it, and you can save money doing so! - Nancy L.
Hi Jim,
I've been reading your blog for a while but this is my first time writing in.
Excelsior College is great for people who need a flexible way to get a degree.
I actually got my undergrad nursing degree through them. This option is only
available to those with prior healthcare experience, which I had. I was formerly
a home birth midwife with a certification through the North American Registry
of Midwives. They accepted this credential to enter their program, and gave
a number of credits for earning this credential. They accepted all my transfer
credits from previous work, and I wound up only needing to take the 7 nursing
exams, plus a microbiology exam. Now I had a prior degree in another field,
but their flexibility for people of many different backgrounds is well-known.
I moved across the country halfway through my degree, and since it was not
a residential program I didn't have to change schools. This has been a godsend
for people in the armed forces, who move all over the place. I liked them
so much, I'm going back to Excelsior for my Master's in Nursing. The Masters
programs are different. Rather than being exam-based, you take classes online
with a group of other students. Anyway, my experiences with this school have
all been positive. I'm not an employee of the school, or connected in any
other way than being a student with them. Oh, a final bonus of this school
is that you can generally spread out your degree earning over many years,
making it very doable to work full time while earning a degree with them.
Andrea
Mr. Rawles,
I recently read your "Patriots" novel and loved it, and have
been reading and learning from your SurvivalBlog daily since then. I've been
following the
topic of alternative and low cost routes to obtaining a college degree and
wanted to contribute another option that your readers might be interested
in.
Harvard University's Extension
School offers
undergraduate and graduate degree programs in a variety of fields in a non-traditional
format. The benefits of this school include:
- Non-traditional admissions policy: This is my favorite aspect of their programs.
Classes are open-enrollment, meaning anyone can register for most courses without
undergoing any kind of application process. Admission to degree-granting programs
is based on your performance in several classes rather than your performance
on standardized tests or in prior schooling. There are no SATs, GREs, or other
tests required for admission (except an English proficiency test if you're
not a native English speaker). And there are no transcripts required. You simply
take 3 courses at the school, including a writing course, and if you pass them
all with a B- or better and GPA of 2.5, you will be accepted upon applying
to the degree program. The classes are very challenging, so rather than trying
to weed out unqualified applicants based on previous transcripts and tests,
you get a trial by fire, proving in the actual courses that you're up to the
task.
- Low cost: Most undergraduate courses there cost less than $1000, so a full
32 course undergraduate degree costs considerably less than one year of school
in many traditional 4 year colleges.
- Flexible scheduling: Courses are offered on both weekdays and weeknights,
so it's easy to schedule school around work.
- Flexible location: Many courses are available online, and for the undergrad
degree, only 16 credits (4 courses) are required to be taken on campus. So
if spending several years in the People's Republic of Cambridge or elsewhere
in the congested Northeast doesn't fit your survival plans, you can knock out
the on-campus requirement in a single summer.
- Excellent education: Courses are taught by a combination of full-fledged
Harvard professors and part-time instructors who are professionals that have
real world experience in the subjects that they teach
- Diverse student body: Classes are filled with students from all socioeconomic
backgrounds, most of whom are working part or full time jobs while in school.
- A degree from Harvard: Very nice to have on your resume, no matter what you
think of "elite" ivy league education and faculty. :-)
My wife and I both worked at Harvard for a few years so we could take classes
at the school for free. I took classes both at the Extension School and in
the Faculty of Arts and Sciences (where traditional undergrads and grads take
classes) and can confirm that the Extension School classes are as challenging
and of as high quality as the "regular" classes. My wife managed
to get a masters degree in English from the Extension School while working
full time, and has found the education invaluable, and her degree essential
in helping her get job interviews and ultimately in landing her first job as
a middle and high school English teacher.
We no longer work at Harvard and have no financial interest in the success
of its programs, but we both spread the word about this little known "back-door" to
a Harvard education because we believe it's such a great value and opportunity
for anyone who wants to further their education in the fields of study that
they offer.
Regards, - Luke V.
« Letter Re: Seattle Area Isolated Because of Flooding |Main| Note from JWR: »
A Low-Cost Route to Earning a Bachelor's Degree, by V/Rs
For many, the cost of a college education can be prohibitive; however the
necessity of having a degree can be crucial when a job seeker is looking for
work. Oftentimes, a college degree is used as a discriminator in the hiring
process. Those with years of experience and talent may not even be considered
for a position simply because they haven’t “filled in the blocks” required
by a human resources department. Even if the degree is in an unrelated field,
it is usually enough to get a person through the initial hurdles of the interview
process.
However, even the costs of a local community college may be prohibitive to those
who have to work and support a family – cost both in money and time. This
was the situation I was faced with just a few years ago; however there is a solution.
In my hunt for a better and cheaper way to obtain that necessary sheepskin, I
discovered the Bain 4
Weeks web site (I have no personal
affiliation
or
compensation)
which described the efforts of one woman who obtained her Bachelor’s Degree
in just four weeks. While initially skeptical (think: diploma mill), I examined
her method. Utilizing the College Level Examination Program (CLEP) and other
college-level
examinations,
she
was
able
to complete her four-year degree in just four weeks.
While I didn’t have an entire month available to dedicate to testing out
of college credit, I did use the same principals to accelerate my degree completion
while working full time, taking care of a family, and spending my evenings at
home rather than in a classroom. In fact, I can proudly say that I was able to
complete the entire degree with never having to set foot in a classroom. This
method enabled me to adjust my education schedule to my life schedule. At some
points taking a test a week for a couple of months was no problem; at other times,
I was reduced to taking one test a month.
Perhaps a quick explanation of the
CLEP program is in order.
These exams are recognized by most accredited universities. These tests allow
an individual to receive college credit (typically three to six credits) for
specific subjects and cost $70 per exam. The first-year exams are six credits
each for the five subjects (English, Math, Social Science and History, Humanities,
Science) and will provide the typical test taker with 30 semester-hour credits.
This means that the first year of college would cost $350. Imagine an entire
year of school for less than the price of one class at a community college.
There are both paper and computer-based versions of the test available. They
can be scheduled at many local colleges (paper versions) or at places like Sylvan
Learning Centers (computer based). The advantage to the computer versions of
the test is that the results are immediately known to the student after completion.
Also, an enterprising student can take more than one exam in a single day at
these centers. (However, I was never able to complete more than two in a day – I
was mentally drained after the second test.)
There are plenty of study guides available online and at your local library – practice,
practice, practice.
So, how would this work? Let us take the example of someone who has finished
high school, is working part time and staying at home. He could schedule one
test every two weeks and spend the interim weeks studying for the next exam.
After 10 weeks, this student would have finished his first year of school. Keeping
this same pace (most of the remaining exams are three credits each), the student
could complete the remainder of his degree in 45 weeks. All total, he would have
spent slightly more than a year working on a four-year degree. His cost would
be approximately $2,450 for all 120 credits. So for about the cost of just one
semester at a community college, this person would have completed all the degree
requirements necessary for graduation.
Another scenario would be a single mother working to support her family. She
doesn’t have a lot of money and can’t dedicate two to three nights
a week to attend classes. Instead she decides to start taking CLEP exams. She
studies a little each night after the kids go to bed. To get time off for testing,
she saves up a little extra time from her lunch break throughout the month to
spend a couple of hours at the test site (or takes a Saturday test). What happens
if something comes up and she isn’t able to study enough to take another
test that month? Nothing happens at all. Unlike taking night classes where she
cannot afford to miss classes; earning credit with these exams allows her to
adjust her test-taking schedule to fit in with what works for her life. If she
averages one test a month, then in 10 months, she would have finished one year
of school. In essence, she is able to go to school full time while working and
raising a family without the financial or time burden traditional education would
have created.
Granted, the folks who create the CLEP tests do not award degrees; so a person
would have to transfer the credits to a school that does. In my case, I used
Excelsior College. If a person completed all degree
requirements and then transferred the credits to Excelsior, the enrollment
cost would be $765 and the graduation
fee would be $440 for a total of $1,260. So the grand total would be $3,710 for
the entire degree. Most schools accept some CLEP exams (usually
up to 60 credits) but require the remainder of classes be taken through their
university. Excelsior (and there are a few others) have no residency requirements
and will accept all credits taken through CLEP or other accredited colleges.
Make sure to check around. Excelsior is a good school, but there are others that
are also equally suitable.
A second advantage to this method of getting that “sheepskin” is
that for those who home school or those who have a GED, getting accepted into
a college can be challenging if not impossible. Most schools do not ask for or
require high school transcripts or SAT/ACT scores for transfer students. What
constitutes a transfer student? Most of the time schools consider a transfer
student as someone who is going to transfer 30 to 45 semester hours of credit.
In other words, if you have an enterprising student who was homeschooled but
the one college she wanted to go to will not recognize her diploma, she can take
her first year of CLEP tests and then be considered a transfer student with no
restrictions.
As a side note, I shared this method with a gentleman at work whose son was a
sophomore in high school. His son began taking CLEP tests over the summers and
during the Christmas breaks. By the time he finished high school this young man
had already earned an Associate’s Degree.
Is there a downside to this method? It would depend on what the person pursuing
a degree really wants. If he or she is trying to get a specific degree, say in
microbiology, then this method probably would not work because of the lab requirements.
However, many of the techniques/concepts can be used to reduce overall costs
and speed up the length of time it takes to get a degree. Hopefully, this information
will be valuable to those who feel frustrated in their efforts to complete a
college degree.
Lastly, if I had to do it all over again, I would have joined the Air National
Guard or Air Force Reserve and learned a skill that would prove useful in a
TEOTWAWKI situation. This would also provide me with a part-time job, free CLEP
and DANTES
tests and money for school if I chose to attend a specific college.
Please note that I am not endorsing any of the cited organizations. I simply
want people to understand that there are alternative ways to get what you need.
Being
a survivalist
means being adaptable and “thinking outside the box”. - V/R, USAF
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Letter Re: Learning Old-Fashioned Trades and Skills
Jim
Concerning the article that Lisa sent: "Blacksmith-collector of forgotten
trades": Many survival minded folks consider learning a basic trade to
help them through TEOTWAWKI.
Most commonly they think farmer, gardener, blacksmith, bullet reloading.
But there are many other basic skills and trades that will be highly prized
and needed if the electricity goes off.
Tinsmithing, broom and basket making, wheel and barrel making, pewter casting,
weaving and spinning, candle and soap making, harness, horse collar, boot and
shoe making, hide tanning, etc., will all be needed. Many of those trades need
specialized tools, equipment and knowledge. Most 19th Century and non-electric
shops have long since been broken up and auctioned. But, the tools still exist.
You can find them in antique shops, sometimes put away in the corner of a barn
or someone's basement, or even on the wall of a restaurant. You can also find
many tools on CraigsList.org and
eBay. It is much the same for books. They are out there on any subject you
can think of, but it's the locating them that's
the trick.
Right now we have the luxury of going online. By doing a used book search on
Barnes & Noble web site, you can purchase a used book from any listed book
store in the country. Other book retailers often offer the same service,--check
and see. Right now we also have the luxury of going to flea markets, online,
and to antique shops to find the needed specialized equipment. Right now we
also have the time to acquire examples of the "art" of various trades.
In the future it will be much easier to make a tin funnel, buggy wheel, or
wood barrel if we have on hand an old one that we can copy.
But we may not have much more time to find the tools and knowledge we need
to be really self-sufficient and/or provide us with a needed trade good if
times get really interesting. It takes quite a bit of searching to find all
the specialized items we may need. My suggestion is to get to it. Even if you
don't have the desire or interest to become a horse collar maker, someone in
your future community will. It will be good to have what is needed, to make
it possible. - Jim Fry, Museum of Western
Reserve Farms & Equipment
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The MOAB Expands Yet Again: Five State Governors Seek $1 Trillion from Uncle Sugar
Back in November I reiterated my point that the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB)
would know no limits. One of my specific warnings was: "The States - Some 29
of the 50 states are reporting budget crises. Lo an behold,
most of the hardest hit states are those with bloated Nanny
State bureaucracies.
No surprise there. The states that had the worst fiscal management, of course,
will get the biggest share of the taxpayer funds. Those that were fiscally
conservative will get nothing." A recent wire service headline confirmed
that prediction: U.S.
governors seek $1 trillion
federal assistance.The article begins: "Governors of five U.S. states
urged the federal government to provide $1 trillion in aid to the country's 50
states
to help pay for education, welfare and infrastructure as states struggle with
steep budget deficits amid a deepening recession. The governors of New York,
New Jersey, Massachusetts, Ohio and Wisconsin -- all Democrats -- said the initiative
for the two-year aid package was backed by other
governors and follows a meeting in December where governors called on President-elect
Barack Obama to help them maintain services in the face of slumping revenues."
This is affirmation of my long-standing assertion that the MOAB
will continue to expand, uncontrollably. According
to a published tally sent to me by SurvivalBlog reader Matt C., $7.2 trillion
of bailout money has been allocated, of which $2.6 trillion has already
been spent.
It is noteworthy that this figure does not include President-elect BHO's
proposed $1 trillion "stimulus
package",
nor does it include the $1 trillion sought by the state governors.But even
this
glut of Federal largesse (from your wallet, BTW), will be insufficient.
You will read of some spectacular state and municipal bond failures, more
derivatives fiascos,
state pension funds "in
crisis", and then there will be news of "special levies", "temporary'
or
"one time" taxes, and so forth. I anticipate that both state income
taxes and state
sales
taxes
will increase dramatically. There of course will also be news of "drastic"
cut-backs, but chances are that while some of the more extravagant programs
will be cut, few bureaucratic paper-pushing
jobs
will
be sacrificed.
(That, my friends is is the only truly "essential service" in the
eyes of a bureaucrat.) I also would not be surprised to see some of the
states
that have
never had
sales
taxes
start
to
implement
them.
The
bottom
line is
that
we can expect taxes to increase at the city, state, and
Federal
levels.
In an era of rising unemployment, the few
people
that
are still productive
and fully employed will be asked to shoulder the burden of the bailouts.
It will be wealth redistribution on a grand scale--Robin Hoodism run amok.
The only
genuine escape from all this would be expatriation, but few will take that
route. However, the one thing that
you can do with relative ease is
move internally to
a state with a smaller scale of government. Again, it is no coincidence
that the states that have he most bloated bureaucracies, the least fiscal
responsibility, and the most Nanny State
trappings
are
those that are having the biggest budget crises. If you stay in
any of those states, they are going to sock it to you. You can expect--with
utter certainty--that the tax rates in those states
to soon rise to painful levels. My advice is simple: Vote with your feet.
For any of SurvivalBlog readers that are self-employed, or that are retired
(or that are about to retire), or that have "portable" jobs that
are readily available with the same job security
in other states, my advice comes down to one word: move.
If you have been considering moving to a state with suitable retreat
areas,
take this as your cue. Given the
deteriorating real estate markets-both residential and commercial--this may
indeed be your
last chance to sell and move before you lose another 30% of your equity. Parenthetically,
I recently
had
some correspondence with a consulting client that owner of a small but prosperous
business in California. This man owns both a home and half a dozen pieces
of commercial
real estate.
He is someone
that has been "considering" moving to a state where hi family would
have better chance of avoiding violent crime. My advice to him was blunt:
"I recommend that
you seriously consider moving out of California, while you
still have the chance to sell your business as a profitable operation, and
sell your other
commercial
properties at a profit." And later, "I recommend moving out of
California and making your new [retreat] home your full-time residence. Sell
off most
or all of your
California properties. Perhaps leave one or two that are the most stable,
profitable, and recession proof in the hands of a trustworthy
commercial property management company. I realize that it is a major life
change that we are discussing, but recognize the real decisions have already
been made, and made by folks "above our pay grade". Presently,
99% of the population are deer in the headlights. They are petrified and
they are going to get squashed. You are in a good position at present,
and you should take full advantage of it by cashing out and moving as soon
as possible. If you wait until the recession (and then depression) sets in
in earnest, you will probably lose nearly everything. " And later in
the correspondence, after he mentioned how his business ventures were still
prospering,
I wrote:
" At the current rate, the prosperity you currently enjoy will evaporate
in less than two years. By then, all that you will have is un-sellable properties
and negative cash flows. Get out!" I then went on to
recommend to make some specific recommendations on potential retreat locales
(one of which was highlighted in my book "Rawles
on Retreat and Relocation".)
I concluded with an admonition: "There are quality of
like
issues at stake, but more importantly preservation of life issues.
Discuss this with your family and pray about it. In any case reduce your
commercial real estate holdings, as soon
as possible. That needs to be done, regardless
of where you
move. Do not hesitate."
I'm sure that there are many other
SurvivalBlog readers that are in comparable situations to that consulting
client. My advice to many of you would probably be much
the same. The only strong proviso in all this is: Do not abandon
a job that is good-paying and that has genuine job security. In
times like these, that would be foolish.
« From the SurvivalBlog Archives: Survival On a Shoestring Budget |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Letter Re: Building a Very Inexpensive 10-in-1 Machine Tool for Every Retreat
Dear Mr. Rawles
The [home-made] MultiMachine is
an accurate all-purpose machine tool that can be used as a metal or wood lathe,
end mill, horizontal mill, drill press, wood or metal
saw or sander, surface grinder and sheet metal "spinner". It can
be built by a semi-skilled mechanic using just common hand tools. For machine
construction, electricity can be replaced with "elbow grease" and
all the necessary material can come from discarded vehicle parts.
If the MultiMachine builder adds just three easily-learned skills:
Making small welds with a welder made from three vehicle batteries hooked
in series.
Using a flower pot furnace to make simple Zinc and Aluminum alloy castings.
Grinding lathe cutting tools. (There are many "How to" instructions
on the web for all this).
...then they can then build seven additional metal bending, rolling and cutting
tools that could be used to equip a small but fully functional metal working
factory.
That's about 20 serious metal working tools in a project that needs just broken
engine blocks, used pipe and truck frame pieces (and lots of hacksaw blades)!
How can just one kind of machine do all this? In almost every kind of machining
operation, either the work piece or the cutting tool turns. If enough flexibility
is built into these functions, the resulting machine can do almost every kind
of metal working operation that will physically fit.
Sounds crazy or too good to be true? The 4,600 member Yahoo news group on Multimachines
doesn't think so and are standing ready to help.
Don't know anything about machining? Read the small book "How to Run a Lathe" available
on our news group.
Every person interested in personal survival needs these free books and video
in their library (at least)!
Again, no catches, no charges, no nothing! Just benefit from the seven years
work spent developing machine tools for poor people in developing countries.
- Pat D.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Inexpensive Spare Eyeglasses »
Three Letters Re: The Best College Degrees for the Next Depression?
Dear Jim:
Why go to college at all? Speaking as a college graduate, unless you are getting
a technical degree, you would probably learn more apprenticing in a real
business that interests you, and studying on your own and taking courses
part time. When you need to apply knowledge right away, motivation is high,
and the lesson really sticks. Bonus - you avoid 4 years of immersion in (and
contributing to) a politically correct cesspool - often intellectually dishonest
to boot.
For some professions you do need a degree for technical knowledge. But most
of the time a degree is just a screening device or "ticket punch" to
show that you can study hard and persevere. Gary
North has a whole section on his web site on how to beat the college racket,
and get your ticket punched with a degree for under $25,000, and no debt.
The way things are going a highly skilled trade where you can work for yourself
might be the best bet (electrician, plumber, auto mechanic, computer repair,
etc., etc.). Someone who can just work like a professional in the "blue
collar" trades will have such an advantage over most of the competition
they will do well.
Regards, - OSOM
Mr. Rawles,
I wholeheartedly agree with both of the readers whose letters referenced learning
a trade before attending college. My own experience, I grew up in a military
family, when I graduated High School I wasn't sure the military for me just yet
and had the foresight to understand I probably wasn't mature enough to handle
college at that point in my life. I was also fortunate that in addition to a
tradition of military service my family also had years of experience in the trades,
one Grandfather became a boilermaker after the Navy, the other a carpenter after
his stint in the Army, my Father retired after 22 years in the Air force and
learned the trade of sheet metal work and HVAC repair, all of them proudly non-union.
With their guidance I did some research and discovered the excellent merit shop
(Non-union) apprenticeship programs offered by the Associated Builders and Contractors
(ABC). The tuition is reasonable, (roughly $200 per semester when I started in
1997) and most member companies are so thrilled to have a young worker take his
career seriously that they will sponsor the cost, provided good grades are maintained.
I chose the carpentry apprenticeship program, and shortly after graduation on
my 18th birthday embarked on a eye-opening and enlightening experience. One of
the first things that shocked me was that at a modest sized company for our large
upper midwest town, (150 field employees) there was only one other apprentice
my age. We had a handful of laborers who were college dropouts, but none of them
were interested in tradecraft training, preferring to remain unskilled laborers
and wondering why they always got the grunt work. The fact that there wasn't
a larger group of young Americans clamoring to learn a useful trade to provide
for themselves and their families was astounding to me!
After two exciting years (and two bitterly cold winters) of building everything
from power plants, to hospitals, to runways I decided to return to college. At
first I was planning on studying Civil Engineering, which is a fine profession
but entails an inordinate amount of desk work after graduation. Again, with some
guidance I stumbled upon Construction Engineering (At other universities known
by the names of Construction Management, or Construction Technology).
At the University I was shocked by two things
1) College is a business! They
will try to keep you in as long as they can to keep raking in the student fees,
etc. My first academic "advisor" even told me that finishing a bachelors
degree in four years was a pipe dream, and most students took five years these
day! I promptly switched advisors. Students, don't let anyone convince
you it
can't be done in four years or less. I was far from a stellar student in high
school, just barely cracked into the top 50% of my graduating class and I completed
my Bachelor's
degree in four years, while working 30+ hours a week at part-time jobs. This
may
take
a
little extra "hard work" but again, nothing worth having comes easy
and if you're already a preparedness minded individual than this shouldn't be
too much of a stretch for you!
2) A surprising majority of engineering students never worked a trade, and never
held a trade related internship in college! This flabbergasted me to say the
least, how could someone who's never put hands on a piece of lumber or steel
expect to lead workers in a project? Needless to say, come graduation time those
students who continued to work at best buy weren't in the highest demand by employers.
Conveniently enough, my trade training had an added benefit: Rather than having
to work a "typical" part-time job in retail, I always found construction
companies that were willing to work around my college schedule, and pay significantly
above the minimum wage my friends were earning. Which offered the added benefit
of leaving the nights, and most weekends free for studying or socializing.
After finishing school, I attended the Navy's Officer Candidate School and became
a Surface Officer for 5 years. Again, my trade experience gave me a valuable
leg up over my peers. I finished school with no debts, having continued to work
the entire four years but was again surprised to learn that some of my friends
who had been [contracted cadets] in ROTC had massive debts. The ROTC is quite
willing
to
take
C students,
but don't expect to get a full ride! I knew of many officers that finished college
twenty, thirty, even forty-thousand dollars in debt!
Now working as a Project Manager for a large General Contractor I am still surprised
by the lack of interest shown by today's students for the trades. To me, the
work is exciting, doesn't involve a desk, and pays extremely well. Believe me,
we would love to take as many motivated young Americans as we can get our hands
on! Unfortunately, many of them have been sold on the dream that college is for
everyone, it's not, and that isn't a bad thing. I can't say enough good things
about learning a useful trade or skill, It's a job that can never be outsourced,
but unfortunately it is being "in-sourced" by immigrants who are willing
to work hard, harder than most Americans these days.
Mr. Rawles, thank you for your wonderful blog. Very Respectfully, - A Former
C
Student
Jim-
Having recently discovered the site, I am now a daily follower. I find the
advice practical and in keeping with my pragmatic approach to life. The technical
detail is impressive, and the topics wide ranging. There is always something
surprising each day I scroll down the page. I am an architect in New York City, and
find the architectural topics of great interest. The site's take on architecture
is refreshing and seldom discussed or debated elsewhere. I will plow through
the archives and find out what sort of treasures lurk within.
There have been a number of recent letters discussing the issue of college
education. There is a common tone to these letters that suggests that learning
a trade is important, perhaps of greater importance than getting one of those
pricey college degrees. I agree that having useful skills, particularly hand
skills, is important. As for myself, I am a woodworker and carpenter, making
and designing furniture, restoring my house in addition to my architectural "office
job."
Here's my take- college degrees are critical in addition to "pragmatic" skills.
I'm not going to suggest which degree to get, since certain degrees are "more
valuable" in certain parts of the USA and world than others. Architects
are useful in New York City but useless in Nebraska, for example. Two points I want to
stress:
1- My degree "got me noticed" by all my employers. It "got me
a foot in the door" as ridiculous as it sounds. That degree, that piece
of paper, really got me ahead of the mobs on the streets. It's a sad arrangement,
expensive but necessary. Think of that piece of paper as some prized battle
rifle as you soldier through life- it's a tool like anything else.
2- My degree "expanded my mind" beyond the day-to-day, hand-to-mouth
nature of existence. Religion "expanded my mind" as well, but the
concepts and thinking that college introduces rounded me out even more. When
we are all holed up behind steel doors clutching those riot guns, the mind
needs to find release, in addition to prayer and meditation. Art, philosophy,
psychology, medicine, etc. can help.
Keep up the good work! - Freakoscope
JWR Replies: The emphasis on learning a trade in many of
the recent letters overlooks one key issue: At present, someone with a baccalaureate
degree on average will earn $1,000,000 more in their lifetime that
someone with just a high school diploma. So if you plan to work in the corporate
world, then I recommend getting at least a Bachelor's degree. Just make sure
that the degree
is in
something
useful,
where there is a reasonable expectation
that there will be jobs waiting. (Not "bird calling and basket weaving"--as
my father dubbed the useless degrees.) Perhaps the best way
to do
this is
to work
in
a skilled
trade or with an IT certification,
to
work your
way through
college on a five to eight year plan. Graduating debt free at
age 26 or 27 with lots of practical experience will actually make you a much
more desirable
job
applicant than someone that graduates at age 22 or 23 with nothing other than
the degree on their resume. Take as many lower division credits
as possible from a community college
or on-line.
All
that employers
will consider
is
the degree itself,
and the name
of the
institution that eventually grants the degree. So take your first two years
"on the cheap", and then transfer to a more prestigious school.
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Two Letters Re: The Best College Degrees for the Next Depression?
Sir,
College is alarmingly pricey. As a child of the 1970s, I grew up understanding
that you either got a useful degree or paid your own way.
I contend that the most useful education currently is learning a trade.
Welding, auto repair or electrician's certification will pay the bills through
the rough
times
as people
choose to repair instead of purchase. As times get better, some of those trade
school credits may transfer to a college and you are on your way. What is that
architecture degree, but about a year of drafting plus three tortuous years
of art...the discovery of use of light and space...with a dash of engineering.
One of the
coolest people I know, was a blacksmith who got his doctorate in physical chemistry.
You never know where your trade may take you.
Art comes in many mediums that must be learned such as welding for those grand
sculptures that grace the lawns of universities and corporations. Get the "practicals"
under your belt first, while you make a few bucks or barter for your dinner.
Don't forget that the library is free. You should know your reference librarian
as she hold the key to all knowledge or can borrow it from another library
for you. Read. Read everything you can get your hands on.
As you head off to college: Find out all the required courses for your degree.
Does your college allow "testing
out" of any subjects? The last I checked it cost about $75 average to
test completely out of 3 or 4 credit courses. Testing out may not be an option
for "required for major" courses.
If you are still in high school, go for every advanced placement (AP) for college
credit course you dare.
So as you plod away learning your trade that is only vaguely related to you dream
degree, remember: we do what we have to do so that eventually we can
do what
we
want to do.
Now, who is gonna come fabricate some new tines for my tiller? - The Accidental
Survivalist
Sir:
For
more than 20 years I have volunteered my time with unemployed US scientists,
engineers, and computer professionals. Based upon my experiences, I suggest
that young people 1) attempt to have a trade under their belt
before they get a four year college degree; 2) preferably pick a college major
that will allow
one to work for oneself and not as a mere employee; 3) consider mixing two
majors such as getting a teaching certificate and forensic accounting as this
might give one two options for a career. If the student is not committed to
college or unsure what to major in, consider attending a community college
first as it is less expensive. Learning something either in college or via
the trade pre-college that is hands-on work such as plumbing, construction,
roofing, carpentry, welding, aquaculture (fish farming) , farm management,
get commercial driver's license, learn to drive farm equipment, learn to repair
things -- electronics, washers/dryers, etc. Some high schools have working
relationships with community colleges where a high school student can take
college courses while still in high school thus saving lots of money while
living at home. Some schools will allow students to attend high school part
time and learn a trade at the local community college at the same time. Many
high tech professionals in the USA have been told by college career counselors after the
student graduated with his degree in chemistry, physics, engineering, or computer
science that he should consider that degree as nothing
more than
a 'hobby'. Kind of a fun mental exercise but it was foolish of the student
to expect to have dreamed of a career in that field. What you are looking for
is a skill (or skills) that allow you to be self-employed. If the young person
is in college, they should focus on skills that will make them more marketable
--
oral communication
skills, writing, bookkeeping (useful for one's own business), marketing, solid
basic math and computer skills. Having a degree in the medical profession may
or may not make one employable -- I have read of dentists and physicians who
were unemployed during the Great Depression. It is possible that cosmetic surgeons
might be in high demand if there are wars as the victims (military/civilian)
may need reconstructive surgery. Health care professions are still probably
a good bet but it doesn't guarantee a career or stable income. Case in point:
I have a friend whose brother-in-law in California is an allergist and is now
closing his practice because he can't making a living in this specialty. He
is dropping
down to become a Physician's Assistant (PA) and will work for his wife who
is also a physician. He, however, cannot afford to maintain the cost of his
license
as an allergist with fewer people willing to see an allergist in an economic
recession.
Princeton University economist, Alan Blinder (do an Internet search to read
his international presentations) has stated that young Americans should not
waste their time and money (paraphrasing) on a four year college degree. Instead,
American youth should be learning trades that cannot be off-shored. (Unfortunately,
he doesn't raise concerns about the importation of cheap labor.)
One should strive to have a college education that is debt free. No one knows
what the future holds and graduating with an educational debt for a degree
that may or may not provide a job (no longer a career) is a tremendous burden
for a young person to enter the adult world with. When looking for a summer
job or working during college -- try to pass on the burger flipping jobs and
look for work in something where one can enhance a skill such a learning how
to pump out septic systems, car parts shop, working on a dairy farm, landscaping,
etc. I do think that having a college degree is valuable to one's personal
understanding of the world but it is not necessarily essential these days to
earn a living.
I would urge young people, if possible, to complete a four year degree but
not having one is not a sign of failure.
Finally, I also urge parents to help their children to learn basic life skills
-- how to manage the home budget, cooking skills, gardening, car repairs; as
well as learning to be happy and enjoy life. Learn to sing, dance, play some
musical instrument, juggle, something to bring happiness to oneself and to
others. This might sound like it is off topic, but when one is unemployed if
you have these inner resources to pull upon it can literally be life saving.-
Cynthia W. (An informed American on jobs and education)
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Letter Re: The Best College Degrees for the Next Depression?
James,
longer this [economic death spiral] goes on, the more it looks like
this is going to be at least a decade before normality returns. So, if
you've got
a teenage
kid
you're probably
thinking, what kind of career (assuming we don't totally melt down at
a societal level) path he or she should take...
I was talking to someone the other day and he told me his kid was studying
art. "Oh, I asked, is he any good?" He replied "No, not really." This
family man is spending good money, money that could be put into preparations
into
a liberal arts education? Idiot.
Even if his son were Michelangelo reincarnated,
who is going to pay for artwork in a depression. It's not like he is going
to get a stipend from the
Medici
family and work on family portraits of the rich and famous.
I'd like to ask the collective survival mind as represented by SurvivalBlog
readers, what careers do you think are worth paying money to learn how to do
for the
next generation? - SF in Hawaii
JWR Replies: Off the top of my head, I think that any of
the medical professions would be good choices,
especially those related to geriatrics,
since we live
in an
aging society The only notable exception would be cosmetic surgery.
BTW, the Memsahib's
parents grew up during the Great Depression and consequently they told the
Memsahib
and
her
sister
that
they
would be willing
to pay for their
college education only if they wanted to be "teachers, nurses,
or dental assistants"--because there would always be some demand for them.
No fru-fru art degrees for their daughters!
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Letter Re: My Preparations are Fairly Complete, So What Next?
Dear Jim,
I have been saving money and selling some of my unnecessary items
and toys for a while now and have amassed $42,000. I have plenty of firearms
and ammunition, tools, a house that is semi-remote, and a stash of food (which
isn't enough I'm sure). I have paid off my credit cards and only have a house
payment left. My job is relatively secure I feel, as I work at a power plant;
though once the coal stops moving I wont be needed, I guess. I'm not sure what
iI should do with the money I have saved. It would seem there is nothing secure
anymore and with the government attacking its own money, the dollar wont be worth
anything soon. I'm going to look into gold and possibly some land, but might
I ask any recommendations you might have. Thank you in advance! - C.K.
JWR Replies: Your highest priority should be rounding out
your larder of long term storage food. I might be biased, but I believe that
my "Rawles
Gets You Ready" preparedness course preparedness
course is a good guide for that project. But after you
have deepened your larder, you should further depression-proof your life.
Even though you consider your job fairly secure, keep in mind that entering
some almost unprecedented perilous economic times. I expect massive layoffs
and
chronic
unemployment
in this nascent depression. As Sarah
Connor puts it so succinctly: "No
one is ever safe." Anyone
can get laid off. You can be an outstanding worker, in a presumably "safe"
industry, yet in a depression you can still get laid off or fired on a pretext,
for example just
to make room for a nepotistic replacement.
I recommend that you
take
part of your nest-egg and invest it in developing
a
second stream
of income. Ideally this would be a family-operated home-based business. Take a look at the community nearest to your
retreat, and see if you can determine what would be a
good "niche" business that would be depression proof. Part
of the savings that you mentioned could be used for education (to develop
a skill, trade,
or even a second profession), or for specialized manufacturing machinery,
tooling and/or raw materials, or for buying inventory to re-sell or barter.
The bottom
line
is that it takes money to make money.
Keep in mind that if you choose publishing or another mail order venture selling
something compact and lightweight, then you can take advantage of a national
or even global market. But if you are selling a service or a relatively bulky
or heavy handcrafted item, then your market will be essentially local.
So choose your venture wisely.
If, after you've expanded your food storage program and have developed a home-based
bushiness, you still have some remaining cash, Then it should be used to either
pay down your mortgage, or invest in precious metals. If you expect chronic
deflation, then apply it to your mortgage. But if you expect Uncle Sugar to
inflate his his way out of the current economic morass (as I do), then put it in precious
metals.
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Letter Re: Where to Find the Funds for Your Preparations
Dear Jim,
So many people are struggling to find ways to make ends meet, much less have
any extra money to make purchases for their preparedness plan.
There are a lot of things people can do within their own means.
1. Make a budget. Income minus expenses. Is there anything left over? You are
ahead of the game. If not, now is the time to:
2. Trim the budget. Distinguish needs versus wants. Eliminate anything that
is not needed.
3. If after trimming the budget, you still cannot find extra money, get a second
job, have a yard sale, etc. www.daveramsey.com is a great site for
learning how to eliminate debt.
Some things that have worked for us:
We turned up the thermostat in the summer and used a fan to circulate the air,
started hanging clothes out instead of using the dryer, unplugged all electrical
cords that were not in use, [each of us] used the same drinking glass instead
of getting another, and shortened our allowed shower time. (With three teenagers in the
house, we struck gold with that one.) We turned all computers off at night. Our power bill was reduced just over $100 per month by making these changes.
We eliminated the cable television. That saved $70.
We started clipping coupons again. I have saved nearly $200 a month on our
grocery bill. CouponMom.com is
an awesome site.
I also milk our goats. I will not pay $4.00 a gallon per day at the store.
Instead of spending a lot on pre-packed snacks for the kids, I am baking a
lot more.
We cook outside a lot. On Sunday, we grill and smoke chicken, sausage, hamburgers,
hot dogs and goat meat. We then use this meat in whatever recipe we want to
use for the week. Some of it is then frozen for the latter part
of the week.
I make up a few batches of goat cheese to go with my husband's homemade pita
bread.
We have a garden in the summer and we can what isn't eaten fresh . Even if
you live in the city, you can still have a tomato plant or a bell pepper plant
etc. You can purchase a grow light at Wal-Mart.
We have consolidated our trips into town, instead of going whenever we want
to. This has saved at least $40 a month.
There are so many ways to stop wasting money.
Okay, some women really will think TEOTWAWKI with
this one: Buy your clothes second hand. I am not ashamed to accept hand me
downs from friends. My children
have all worn clothes given to them from other family members. I also shop
at Goodwill [thrift stores] or go to Yard Sales.
Start a business. I am a stay at home Mom with five children. We have nearly
four acres that we live on and have access to 20 acres next door and that we
run our 40 head of Boer goats on. We have chickens and rabbits. I also breed
and
train German Shepherds and board dogs. With my husband's income and the extra attention to detail, we do pretty well. The changes that we have made has allowed
us to purchase the needed extras.
Thanks for the wealth of knowledge that you share with us every day! - RH
in Alabama
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Letter Re: Your Next Career in the New Economy
Dear SurvivalBloggers:
So, you've prepped and developed skills but what if
you actually need to work through the depression? What if the depression
lasts longer than your preps and the 'new economy' isn't amenable to your
current job which requires factories, computers and shipping etc?
You can either learn a useful trade like being:
A Veterinarian or Doctor, but there probably isn't enough time to go to school
for six years.
You can learn another useful skill like plumbing, welding, carpentry
etc. But then you're competing with other plumbers, welders, and carpenters.
Or, you can have some kind of cottage industry that uses locally-produced
raw materials and creates needed products... Yes!
Is there a lot of grain growing where you are? Okay, how about being a
miller.
Is there a lot of unpurified water where you are? Okay, how about a drinking
water vendor?
Are there a lot of animals where you are? Okay, then become a tanner and
or tailor.
If you can find something that has some skill set involved, good. Even
better if there is some specific tool required to do the job that no one
else
has locally because the current economies of scale make it cheaper to have
it done
in
bulk somewhere else. - SF in Hawaii
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The Savvy Barterer--References, Skills, and Tools for TEOTWAWKI Barter
One of my long-standing Precepts is
that every prepared individual should be ready for both barter and dispensing
charity. Today, I'll be briefly discussing barter. Being ready to barter
is not just a
matter of having a pile
of "stuff" to barter. While barter and charity logistics are
important,
what
is
even more
important
is what is between
your
ears.
A Bazaar Experience
Bartering takes practice. Dickering is an acquired skill. Short of buying
yourself a plane ticket to Marrakech, I suggest that you start attending gun
shows,
garage sales, and
flea markets. Learn how to haggle.
One of my long standing Rawlesian Precepts is having the skills and material
acquired to conduct barter in a post-collapse society. Much has been written
about what
goods to keep on hand for bartering. But precious little
has been discussed in survivalist literature on the skills required to barter
effectively, and how to protect yourself from fraud.
I recommend that you practice bartering on a very small scale at first, to
sharpen your eye for value and your ability to dicker in a manner that will
result
in a
fair
trade.
(Mutually agreeable and mutually beneficial.) The
occasional transaction where you end up slighted is hardly cause for concern.
But unless you develop the proper bartering skills, you'll end up on the weaker
side of bargains
again and again, and thus fritter away your tangible working capital. The attributes
that will put you in a superior bartering position include specific knowledge
about what is being traded, knowledge about who's sitting on the the other
side of the table, and good old-fashioned "horse trading sense".
Knowledge and References
The more you know about the goods being exchanged the better you'll be able
to dicker. Armed with this knowledge, you'll be able to honestly, yet persuasively
talk up the virtues of your own goods, while politely talking down the defects
of your trading partner's goods. Hence, the the greater your technical knowledge
of the goods, the better. Take the time to study and develop an 'appraiser's
eye' for the condition of used merchandise, the relative value of goods from
one
maker
versus another, and knowledge of the overall market . With that knowledge you
can articulate the scarcity of any particular item in your barter stock. (After
all, as with
any other
free
market transaction, the key factor in determining value is the supply-demand
ratio.) If you are trading for a collectible item then knowing how scarce
they are can put you
at a tremendous advantage in negotiation. It is important to gather
as many references as possible about the items that you plan to barter.
Francis Bacon said it best: "Knowledge is power." You need to authoritatively
know which maker, model, variation, grade,
year of production, etc. to look for. Product expertise helps makes you a
savvy buyer or
seller.
There are dozens
of references on specific types of tool, guns, and collectibles that are valuable
to keep on hand. For example, two of the most important ones that I 've found
for
firearms
are: "The
Blue Book of Gun Values" and "Flayderman's
Guide to Antique Firearms and Their Values."
Similarly, knowing exactly
how to properly gauge the condition of a used item is quite important. For
example, with
firearms, the percentage of original bluing remaining, cracks or wear to a
gun's stock, bore condition, chamber condition, bolt face erosion, action tightness,
headspace, and so forth all make a huge difference in the value of a used gun.
Detailed knowledge is also crucial when determining the value of a rare coin.
(For most
of us, that knowledge is too specialized. It can take many years to develop
coin
grading skills, so a novice can get in over his head very easily. The difference
between an MS-66 coin and an MS-68 coin is very subtle, yet that difference
can mean thousands of
dollars difference in a coin's price. I therefore recommend that novices
only trade professionally graded coins that have been graded
and sealed (or "slabbed") by either PCGS or NGC.
A coin dealer Blue
Sheet is a crucial reference for measuring the
current
value of coins with particular mint marks and dates, in any given grade on
the Sheldon Scale. Even having an out-of-date Blue Sheet is better than nothing,
since it will
show relative values of coins, which change fairly
gradually. Again, this is not for a novice, or part-time
dabbler. (FWIW, even though I have been buying rare coins for more than
20 years, I still consider myself effectively a "novice" level since I don't
ge frequent coin grading practice. Hence, I only buy slabs. ("A man has got
to know his limitations.")
Tools
To be ready to barter with bullion gold cons or scrap
gold it is important to have a
touchstone, an acid test kit, test needles, a very accurate scale, and a set of Fisch
coin authenticity dimensional gauges.
When bartering for canned goods it's
important to have a Julian
Calendar (since some packers use Julian dates) and a hard copy of this
chart showing how to decipher date of pack codes from various canners and packers.
For liquid fuel it's
important to know if the fuel has been contaminated or adulterated. (Coincidentally,
one of our newest advertisers, UR-2B-Prepared.com sells
water test strips.
For batteries, it's important to have
a voltmeter. (For the greatest versatility,
buy a Volt-Ohm meter with test probes on leads, rather than a typical tray-type
home battery
tester. )
For examining the the fine details of just about anything--such
reading hallmarks--a jeweler's loupe (magnifying glass) is
a must.
For evaluating firearms,
as a minimum buy a 6 foot tape measure and a fiber optic bore inspection
light.
Dickering Tactics
Above and beyond getting technical knowledge is the hard to quantify "people
skill" of
dickering. Dickering skills can take years to develop. Part of this is learning
how to "read" the face and body language of the gent on the other
side of the table. How anxious is he to unload something that he has, or to
acquire something that you have? How quick they are to make or accept an offer
is a key indicator. And if there is a savvy trader sizing you up,
you have to learn to keep a "poker face", not revealing how excited
you are to see a particular item being offered.
Take your time in carefully
examining
any
item offered to you. This accomplishes two things. Firstly, it gives you the
opportunity to spot any flaws, defects or signs of wear on the item being offered.
Secondly, the more time that you spend examining the item will lead the seller
to subconsciously start to doubt the value of what he is offering. If you're
in a flea market or gun show situation once you have an item in your hands
you are essentially free to examine it without fear of someone else buying
it.
Take your time!
If you make an offer for an item, and it is rejected or the
counter offer made is ridiculously low than the very best thing you can do
is put the
item
back
down on the table. This psychologically distances you from the item, and again,
makes the seller begin to doubt it's value. In the dickering process one of
the most valuable phrases that you can use is "Is that the best
you can do?" If the seller won't budge, and you are close to
an acceptable price, the next best thing to do is to offer to sweeten the
deal with additional goods
offered on your side of the bargain. If you still can't reach an agreement
it probably wouldn't hurt to subtly talk down the value of what's being offered
to you, and talk up the value of what you are offering. "This is a mighty
fine widget it's too bad about this crack and this wear...
If it weren't
for that, I think your asking price would be fair."
The next most valuable
thing you can learn to say is to say nothing. After making
an offer and receiving a counter
offer, silently start counting to twenty. There is something about a long
pause that causes all but the most stalwart dickerer to want to fill that
silence And nine times out of ten, they will fill that silence with another
offer, usually one that is more agreeable.
As a last resort, if you are still
at an impasse in
reaching an mutually-agreeable trade, your tool of last resort is to thank
the seller and start to walk away from the table. This will be your final gauge
of just
how anxious the seller is to move his merchandise. If you hear "Wait,
wait, wait, come back here...", then you know that the seller still has
room to negotiate on price or quantities. Keep in mind however, that this is
a dangerous
tactic. Once you walk away from a table without he seller voicing
objection, but return later, you have subconsciously boxed yourself into the
previously-offered
price.
If
you come back later for the same item, the seller will know that you are
anxious to purchase it, and did not find a better deal for a comparable item
elsewhere, so they'll probably hold to the same price.
When selling, keep in mind that
you can negotiate downwards, but not upwards. Always make your initial asking
price
somewhat higher than what you really want out of it. Some people will not agree
to even
a good deal, unless they can extract at least one price concession from you.
So, set a fairly high price, and then negotiate downward.
If your counterpart brings an item to offer to you, but that item is of
no interest to you, always thank him for his time: 'Thanks, but
I'm not
interested in that right now. Do you have any X available?", describing
what you are looking for in trade. Remember, a sales venue is an opportunity
to gather information about other items a seller may have available, but may
not physically have with them. It may not hurt to make arrangements to see
them at the next
event, reminding them to bring those items so you can make a deal next time.
Image
When going to attend a flea market, gun show, or horse trading session,
it is important to "dress down". If you wear a fancy Rolex watch,
or fancy designer clothes, consciously or unconsciously your counterpart will
size
you up as being made of money. So dress very casually, including your shoes.
Leave your jewelry, pens, and nice watch at home. Wear your cheap plastic-cased
digital watch for these excursions.
You also need to learn to be observant about your counterpart. Is he a collector,
that happens to sell on the side, or is he a journeyman salesman, who makes
a livelihood at the business. Is he retiring and selling off inventory? Is
he someone selling merchandise on behalf of a friend or relative? The bottom
line is: just how anxious is your counterpart in making a deal?
Timing and Rapport
When approaching a vendors booth or table for the first time it is important
to first wait until the vendor has finished dealing with any previous customers.
Don't interrupt a man when he's making a deal! Smile and make eye contact,
and if appropriate for the venue, introduce yourself and shake hands. If you
are
a fellow vendor, it's important to wear your badge, or otherwise make it known
that you also have a table or booth. This lets the seller know that he is talking
to a wholesale rather than retail customer. This can make a tremendous
difference when negotiating price. Even if the vendor appears to have a pile
of worthless
junk on his table (with perhaps a few nice items of interest) make a point
of expressing your admiration for his merchandise. Say something like "You've
got a real nice inventory here" or "I can see that you have good
taste in widgets". This is an important step in developing rapport
with you counterpart. While it doesn't hurt to point out a defect on an individual
item
while negotiating for it, do not "run down" the
quality or condition of everything that you see. Doing so could skunk the entire
deal-making
process. OBTW, don't be shy about pointing out defects in your own merchandise.
"Oh, in case didn't noticed, there is one dent here..." That lets your customer
know that you are reputable.
Another key aspect of understanding buying and selling psychology is the "stage
of the game". At the beginning of a show or sale most journeymen sellers arrive
inventory rich, and cash poor. Near the end of the show, they will likely have
more cash (or precious metals) on hand and then will be in a better position
to make offers. Although some of the best items may have already been sold,
one
of the
best
times to make a purchase or trade is near the end of a show, when some sellers
have had a "slow show" At flea markets and gun show wait until just
before the vendor's "tear down" and pack-up time begins. Depending on
their situation they might feel desperate to make a good sale or a couple
of
good
swaps so that
they can feel that they've made the show worthwhile. So, if you saw an item
earlier in the show, and could not negotiate an agreeable price, wait for
the end of the sales event. This, BTW, is particularly valuable tactic if the
item in question is particularly bulky
or
heavy. It is
the unspoken goal of every seller to "go home light".
If you encounter a seller that has the sort of merchandise that you
think would be of future interest, then it's important to get that seller's
particulars so that you can contact him later. Take copious notes. The same
applies when you encounter a seller that has a particularly valuable area of
expertise
or a rare stock of items--especially spare parts. These are people well worth "networking" with.
Never Trade Hard for Soft
When negotiating a trade, keep in mind the absolutely fundamental rule: "never
trade hard for soft". This means, if what you are offering in
a trade is a compact, valuable, durable, tangible item, that is in short supply,
or highly valued,
the don't make
the mistake of trading it away for items that are less durable or desirable.
Otherwise, at the end of the day, your counterpart will be going home with
the better goods than you.
The only exception to this rule would be if your counterpart is willing to
trade a much greater quantity of his items and that you know that
you have a ready market for them. A corollary to this rule is, that it
is better to trade
your bulky for his compact. (Or as one aging gun
show vendor I met in put it, "Don't never trade away handguns for rifles or
shotguns."
That is simple yet sage advice.) This is particularly important in venues where
space is at a premium, and you are paying for the use of that space.
In closing, barter takes time to learn. Invest that time. Also invest in
the proper references. Lastly, invest in a stock of top quality barter goods
that you predict will be sought-after in a post collapse world. With the right
goods and the requisite knowledge, you and your family will never starve.
« Letter Re: Pre-Paying Utility Companies in Anticipation of Worsening Banking Disruptions? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Letter Re: Selecting and Storing Bargain Barter Items
As Mr. Haney (Pat Buttram) from the television show Green Acres would
say, “Have
I got a deal for you!” In
the spirit of Mr. Haney, I’ve come up with some good barter items. To
make the list, the items have to be fairly light, extremely useful, practical,
and cheap to buy, now! The items have to fit, and be able to be stored in six
gallon plastic pails with a water proof seal. The items also must be available
in large quantities now, to get the most for my money and be easily accessible
now, at a low cost – yet become very valuable when the Schumer hits
the fan. Few barter items can fit Mr. Haney’s criteria, but some items
will pass the test.
#1 Matches. Most boxes [of paper matches] contain 50 books with 20 matches
per booklet, at about 200 per box. That’s 1,000 lights, right? Wrong!
It’s
actually double that at 2,000 because with a little care, each match can be
split in
two. It
takes about 4-5 seconds to split a paper match, and I haven’t ruined
any in my scores of attempts. During the war in Bosnia, matches were on the
list
of
things that disappeared first. One six gallon pail holds 24 boxes, if left in
packages. That’s 48,000 lights!
#2 Seeds. I would fill the second pail with seeds. The type of seeds is a personal
preference, but heirlooms seeds are preferred, though more costly. You can
give your customer 2 choices: some seeds in packets that are heirloom seeds,
and some that are from any store. Over a million seeds can fit in a six gallon
pail, and seeds may very well become just as valuable as ammo, but are a lot
lighter with a higher quantity able to fit in the same size pail.
#3 Sugar. For your own stock, just pour 25 pound bags into six gallon buckets.
For [incremental] barter though, large wholesale food stores like COSTCO have
sugar packets with a quantity of 2,000 per box. A six gallon pail holds more
than two boxes;
and sugar keeps a long, long time. That’s approximately 5,000 individual
servings that are pre-packaged, and will last a very long time.
#4 Magnifying glasses. Magnifying glasses are very cheap if you shop around.
They are easy to store and are a great reading tool for fine print or serial
numbers, can be used as a fire starter and can be used for medical purposes
and close examination such as, to aid in splinter removal or to see a mote
in someone's eye. When buying in quantity, you should pay between $1 and $1.50
per pair.
This barter item will be excellent in the worse case scenario.
$5 Can Openers. A can-opener
will come in very handy for those who can no longer use their electricity.
Using a knife as a substitute is not worth the risk of injury to group members
which can create another problem (stitches, infections, etc.). Can openers
are cheap
and can
be purchased
for as low as .39 cents for a military P-38 style, or $1.99 for a more elaborate
one.
There are many other items one could focus on to establish the beginning of
your trading post. But Mr. Haney’s five items listed above will wind
up being the most popular and meeting some very important needs for his friends
and community. The items I’ve listed are light, cheap, easy to store,
easily obtainable now in large quantities and will be in high demand later.
I’ve left out ammo on purpose because it is more expensive and heavier,
and most likely (hopefully) you should already have ammo as a priority.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Water Storage and Crash Course Advice »
Letter Re: Cheap is Good, But Free is Better
Mr. Rawles,
I've noticed there have been several letters lately about getting
prepped on a budget, and several people have suggested watching Craig's
List for good
bargains. I'm surprised that no one has recommended Freecycle as
a place to find good deals, because everything listed is free.
I'm sure it's been
mentioned a few times in Survivalblog over the years, but I think it deserves
as much emphasis as Craig's List, if not more.
I think there may be some misconceptions about what is found on Freecycle.
There can be a lot more than just old baby clothes and blenders. It will depend
on your area of course.
In the past 6 months, I have gotten through Freecycle:
* Enough wood framed windows to build a good-sized greenhouse
* Several car loads of firewood (I don't have a truck)
* About 150 – 200 canning jars in various sizes
* Spare blankets and linens
* A small plate steel wood stove
* Window screening
* Chicken wire, several rolls
* Rolls of woven wire fence, with T-posts
* Loads of scrap wood, good for burning or building tables or shelving
* Lengths of garden hose
* Sleeping bags
* Air mattresses
* Many rolls of carpet (for garden and indoor use)
And my treasure from yesterday (which prompted me to write this), a used 30-quart
canner. An All-American model #930. It's filthy but appears to be in good shape.
To buy this new would be over $200, plus some serious shipping costs due to
its
weight.
I have seen every possible kind of furniture and appliance being given away,
as well as garbage bags full of clothing.
My point here is to illustrated that many very useful things can be found on
Freecycle, if you take the time to watch your local sites. It may not be a frequent
find, but worth a minute or two each day to check. I rarely post any "wanted" items,
I just sit and wait to see what is offered.
The main site is Freecycle.org, and you can find local groups from there.
Each site is run by volunteers, and certain areas may have more groups than others.
I am member to several, even though they do overlap a bit.
Rather than take up more space here, I would refer you to a
short article I wrote
about using Freecycle.
It's not written from a prepping perspective, but does explain the posting process.
I'm a single mom thankfully just moved to a 5-acre mini farm. I can't afford
anywhere near all the "stuff" that I need around here, and Freecycle
has really given me the chance to pick up some great things I would otherwise
not have been able to get my hands on... like my beautiful new canner. :)
I hope these ideas are helpful to someone. Keep up the good work with the blog
site. Thanks, - Terri, in Canada
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Like Something Out of a Novel--Some Predictions for 2009-to-2019
The economic headlines in the past couple of weeks have sounded like
something out of a disaster novel that I once read wrote. The international
financial and equities markets are spinning out of control, with seemingly
wider and
wider gyrations with each passing day. Since there are so many variables,
the end
result is
difficult to firmly predict, but one thing is clear: It will be neither
easy nor pleasant. My
current
prediction
is that
the governments of the English-speaking nations and Europe will co-conspire
with
the banksters to concoct the most grandiose Mother of All Bailouts (MOABs)
yet. This will be even bigger than the
MOAB that I predicted, early in 2008.
The multi-trillion dollar multinational MOAB will inject liquidity--in the
form of magically-created Dollars, Pounds, and Euros--in such enormous quantities
that it will calm the markets, at least for a while. But the by-product will
be consumer price inflation that has never been witnessed in modern times except
in the region north of the Limpopo river and south of the Zambezi river.
In the long run, the fractional
reserve banking and fiat
currency regimes
used today are doomed to failure. Both are lovely fictions that can only persist
in expanding markets and when guided by the most altruistic managers. Any
serious contraction
of the underlying economy will inevitably bring both to a crashing halt. Perhaps,
in the aftermath of te ongoing credit collapse, wiser heads will prevail,
and private
credit clearing circles will develop, instead of re-creating the
same
government-sanctioned
fractional banking scheme that created the current crisis.
What Happened?
The
last few years have been an anomaly. Led by Ben Bernanke and his predecessor "Easy
Al" Greenspan, the Masters of the Universe that headed many of the central
banks in the First World attempted to forestall a recession
by
artificially
reducing
interest rates,
thereby creating bubbles in both real estate and equities valuations. All
their meddling has made matters worse. They have formed mountains of debt that
is classic malinvestment of the worst sort.
This debt creation was like winding up an enormous clock spring. Debts
were taken on by unworthy borrowers that never had a hope of repaying them,
and
then those
same
dodgy
debts were
re-packaged and re-sold to unwitting dupes--like pension funds in Denmark.
This explains
the
umpteen foreclosed
and
abandoned
tract homes that stretch from around
the DC Beltway to the
heartland of Ohio, to southern
California.
Inevitably all debt--whether good or bad--must be un-wound. And
the more malinvestment there is, the uglier and protracted this unwinding
process
gets. Instead of a recession, we will probably
witness the worst economic depression since
the 1930s.
That is the big picture. Now for some predictions on the next 10 years with
some possible implications for prepared families. Note: I
don't claim to be a prophet. These are just logical
extrapolations of trends, based on previous swings of the macro scale market
pendulum. So don't gather up stones for the event that things don't play out
exactly as I predict:
Simultaneous Deflation, and Inflation
As I've previously posited,
we are likely to see a wave of asset deflation at the same time that we have
consumer price inflation. How is this possible? See
the article that I posted back in February for an explanation. The bottom
line is that leverage
works both ways. The multiplier effect on fractional deposits works
in reverse whenever bank deposits decrease.
Derivatives
I've been warning SurvivalBlog readers about derivatives,
since late 2005. The multi-trillion dollar derivatives "casino" may soon be
in crisis. Thursday
Is D-Day: For Derivatives, as billions of dollars worth of contracts
on defaulted Credit Default Swap (CDS)
derivatives from Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, Lehman Brothers and
Washington Mutual (WaMu) are settled. On Thursday, we'll find out what a
CDS derivative contract is
worth in the real world! Something tells me that these
once-touted "assets" are
going to suffer quite a haircut.
Bank Failures and Bank Runs .
As I've said before, more bank failures seem inevitable. There may also be
more bank runs--most likely invisible ones, where banks get cleaned out
by their creditors via margin calls by large depositors via wire transfers,
and by small
depositors via electronic banking. There may not be a a line of customers in
front of the banks doors. If you wait for that as an indicator, then you will
probably be too late. I've written this before, but it bears repeating: Be
sure to check
your bank or S&L's safety rating at least once a week. If
it drops below a "C" rating, then transfer your funds to a safer
bank, ASAP.
And, needless to say, never keep more than the FDIC limit in any one institution.
Thankfully, the
FDIC just raised the deposit insurance limits substantially, as did
their
counterparts in much of Europe.
Hedge Funds
I've discussed hedge funds at length in SurvivalBlog articles for
more than a year. Suffice it to say, the risk with hedge funds is huge.
I expect large quarterly waves of hedge fund redemptions--and
redemption suspensions in the next few months.
Real Estate
The real estate market--both residential and commercial--will very likely
continue to decline in the US for several years. The market will be flooded
with more and more foreclosed properties, in a downward spiral. One downside
to consider is
that the thousands of abandoned houses will become nests
for criminals.
In my estimation,
the only thing that will stop te decline in nominal dollar figure declines
will be
the eventual mass
inflation
of the US Dollar. Hence, it will appear that real estate prices have "stabilized",
and then "turned around" in a couple of years. By in real terms
(adjusted for inflation), the genuine bottom of the market probably won't
be for another
five years. By that time, American homeowners will have lost an average of
60% of the "coulda-woulda" value of their homes. I expect he declines to
continue
as
long as the credit
drought persist, and until the massive glut of inventory is purchased.
For the next few years it will be a buyer's market, and cash will
be king.
Anyone sitting on cash will be able
to
buy
up
assets
at
ridiculously
low prices--as
the economic
pendulum
swings
beyond the point of logical price neutrality. Sit tight, watch the listings
closely, and buy at the bottom. You can find distressed properties--including
some good rural survival retreat properties--at Foreclosures.com. If
you plan to do some "bottom fishing", a subscription to this service is money
well spent.
Unemployment and Dislocation
Large corporate layoffs are a fact of life in any recession. Be ready for
them, by minimizing your debts. A family food reserve is insurance for unemployment
just as well as it is for natural disasters. If the recession turns into a
depression, we can expect some huge layoffs. This will mean lots of families
will be moving--either to seek work elsewhere or because they can no longer
meet their monthly house payments. This however, might create some opportunities.
Storage companies, estate auction firms, relocation
services,
rental property managers,
home security companies, locksmiths, relocation
specialists, and contractors that specialize in
home renovation might all prosper. (After all, someone has to refurbish all
those abandoned houses for the bankers.)
Stocks
It has been said that "a rising tide lifts all ships." Sadly, the inverse
is true, as well. I expect substantial further declines in stock prices. Price-to-Earnings
(P/E) ratios might drop to as low as 7-to-1. (Where many manufacturing stocks
have traditionally bottomed in major recessions.) In my estimation most of
the current P/E ratios are still much too high for these troubled times. When
I
last checked
(after the
recent 800+ point two-day drop in the DJIA), I found the following P/Es quoted,
in a quick, quasi-random sampling of big names that jumped out at me:
Amazon -- 42.56-to-1
Apple Computer -- 17.43-to-1
Caterpillar Inc. -- 7.78-to-1
Coca-Cola -- 19.95-to-1
eBay -- 43.31-to-1
Google -- 22.73-to-1
Lockheed Martin -- 13.06-to-1
Microsoft -- 12.44-to-1
QQQ (which is like buying the entire NASDAQ) -- 19.79-to-1
Real Networks -- 81.73-to-1
Unilever -- 14.24-to-1
Xerox -- 13.17-to-1
Do the math. It isn't a pretty prospect, but many stock prices have a lot
farther to fall. My advice is to sell on the market
rallies, and buy tangibles with the proceeds.
Cars and Trucks
Again, like real estate, you'll have the opportunity to
buy at the bottom of the market, perhaps in five of six years.
Have you ever wanted to own a classic car? This may be your chance, especially
if it is a gas-guzzling big block classic car. I predict that in
2015 you'll be able to buy a fully-restored late-1960s Muscle Car for perhaps
1/8th
of its current
price.
(Well, in dollars adjusted for inflation, that is.) But of course to make
that a practical tangible
investment, you should instead get a classic military
vehicle, such as a Dodge Power Wagon. (Or, for our european readers
with a retreat in North Karelia, make that a Unimog
DOKA.)
Cash Will Be King, and then Cash Will Be Trash
Once inflation starts to kick in, it will be absolutely essential for you
to parlay all of your remaining dollar-denominated investments
into durable and liquid tangibles. Do do before the dollar evaporates. If you
haven't done so already, now would
be a good time to start.
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Even Chuck Schumer Thinks that We Might Be in Deep Schumer
A front page headline in The New York Times on Friday shouted: Congressional
Leaders Stunned by Warnings. The article began: "It was a room
full of people who rarely hold their tongues. But as the Fed chairman, Ben
S. Bernanke, laid out the potentially devastating ramifications of the financial
crisis before congressional leaders on Thursday night, there was a stunned
silence at first." Later in the piece, it mentions: "...the
congressional leaders were told “that we’re literally maybe days
away from a complete meltdown of our financial system, with all the implications
here
at home
and globally.'"
U.S. Senator Charles Schumer (Democrat, of New York) gave his impression of
the meeting with Bernanke: “When you listened to him describe it, you
gulped." In
a another interview with NPR, Schumer said of the unfolding credit crisis: "If
we wait too long, the floor could come out and everything could crash down.
"
It
was Schumer, BTW, that first proposed creating a new agency that would be analogous
to
the
Resolution
Trust
Corporation (RTC), during the Savings and Loan Crisis of the late 1980s. Parenthetically,
you will also remember Schumer as the inspiration for a couple of
my pet expressions ("Deep Schumer", and "When The Schumer Hits
The Fan"),
that I coined back in the early 1990s, to avoid making crude scatological references.
Given Senator Schumer's horribly leftist and gun-grabbing voting record, I
make no apologies for enshrining
"Schumer"
and "WTSHTF"
in the SurvivalBlog Glossary.
Clearly, we are living in perilous times. I predict that the markets will
be in rollercoaster mode for the foreseeable future, with news stories and
government pronouncements precipitating some huge swings.
At this juncture I think that I should repeat some
thoughts that I posted back in March of this year, since our newest readers
probably missed it. This was posted back when I first started warning in earnest
about
the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB). As you'll see, most of my predictions were
correct:
Last week, the mainstream media described the latest expansion
of the Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB),
but they politely refrained from calling this what it
is: socialism, plain and simple. The grand plan, as it stands now, is
to bail out not just consumer banks, but also investment banks, with taxpayer
dollars.
They are effectively making our life savings and our future earnings surety for
a
bunch of idiotic contrapreneurs'
loans on everything from flat top duplexes
to McMansions.
These
were
houses
that the contrapreneurs
bought,
that they could never
really afford unless the market continued to rise at an artificial
rate. They bought these houses with the intention of "flipping" them,
but then the
market topped out, and the "easy money" party ended.
At
least
those hated fascist dictators like Mussolini
had
the
common
sense
to
nationalize
viable,
productive
companies.
But now Ben Bernanke
is
busy
nationalizing a
slew of corporations with negative net worth. This is absolute lunacy!
[Some deleted, for brevity.]
All of these calls for regulation, new government agencies, and greater scrutiny
might outwardly sound well-reasoned, but they ignore some inescapable underlying
problems: We have
a fiat currency
that is based
on debt, we have a banking system with fictional fractional reserves,
we have a derivatives
market that is a $500 trillion casino, and
we have a national treasury that is backed by wishful thinking--certainly not
by anything tangible.
The other key point that seems to have escaped the mainstream media is that
this new regulatory power is being handed to the Federal Reserve, which is
a private
banking cartel,
not a government agency. They are no more "Federal" than
the Federal Express parcel courier company. So this isn't just socialism.
This is nothing short of corporate-controlled
socialism--where a handful of banking corporations are given access to the
Federal tax coffers
to bail
out
other
institutions
and
then, even further, they are given sweeping regulatory powers. This
power grab is deemed "necessary" by circumstances that the Federal
Reserve itself created!
Somewhere, somehow,
somebody stands to make a lot of money in this process. Cui bono?
I'll wager that it won't be the American taxpayers that benefit.
As economist
Mish Shedlock observes, this is like putting the
Fox in Charge of the Henhouse. Mish summed up the current mess succinctly: "The
biggest, most reckless credit experiment in history has started to implode.
It's far too late to stop a complete systemic collapse now. Granting new powers
to the agency most responsible for the mess simply does not make any sense."
Secrecy is another concern. In a recent e-mail, SurvivalBlog reader
KAF commented: "We should be greatly concerned about the fact that the
Federal Reserve has provided public release anonymity to the institutions who are taking
'30 day' never ending loans. We'll now never know if the institutions we
deal with are truly solvent and credible, This new"confidentiality" allows
the Fed. to manipulate reserves on a routine basis. We'll never know if this
country's Federal Reserve is or is not heading for bankruptcy
unless we use the tests of consumer spending and commodity pricing as indicators." She
hit the nail on the head. At the same time that the press is howling for "greater
transparency" in banking, and writing exposes of "predatory lending
practices",
the Powers That Be are drawing the veil of secrecy over lending institutions.
They'd rather treat us like mushrooms--keeping us in the dark and feeding us
barn waste--than risk a panic by letting the public know the real depth of
the liquidity
crisis and its collateral effects.
Instead of government platitudes, do you want some figures to chew
on? Look at this
Federal Reserve web page. The negative numbers at the bottom of the "Non-loaned
Reserves" column speak volumes. Without the newly-created Federal Reserve "emergency
lending
mechanisms",
many
banks would be absolutely bankrupt. As you can see, the bankers are swimming
in red ink. There is now a huge risk of bank runs, but this threat is being
ignored by the mainstream media. Mark my words: There are bank runs
coming.
The fact is that the global lending system is essentially broken. Artificially
lowering interest rates won't fix it, when bankers are afraid to lend.
As I've previously noted, the bankers are afraid to lend because so much re-packaging
and reshuffling
of
debt has gone on in the past seven years that nobody knows who owes
what to whom,
and precisely what assets are underlying these exotic debt "packages." Meanwhile,
the bankers have learned that the big insurance firms like Fitch, Moody's
and
S&P were in on the swindle. We now know that they colluded with their
mortgage firm buddies to inflate assets and
deflate
risks in
a
masterpiece
of legerdemain that would make Enron's accountants proud.
The bottom line is the the entire world economy is is in deep, deep trouble.
Without financing, the Big Machine is grinding to a halt. The
next few years will probably see the economy plunge into a deep recession,
if not a full blown
depression. The current headlines are just a foreshadowing of the
real crisis to come. The MOAB will grow and grow, eventually bailing out far
more than just
banks. There will be brokerage houses, insurance firms, S&Ls,
credit unions,
Fannie
Mae, and Freddie
Mac, and possibly even muni bonds
and pension funds are all lined up, ready to reach into our wallets.
Once the government starts down the slippery slope of bailout-socialism schemes,
they will perforce spread to more and more institutions. And, as I've
previously noted, the public
coffers will be insufficient to
cover
the
inestimable
costs of the MOAB. So this mean that Uncle Sam will monetize the
difference. They'll just create the needed "dollars" out of thin
air. This will be outrageously inflationary, at all levels.
[More deleted, for brevity.]
All of these macro-level implications might seem fairly abstract, so let me
put them in real world terms and take the risk of extrapolating on some trends
that I've observed: There will be
a recession, and it will be deep, and long-lasting. A recession will mean
that there will be some big corporate layoffs. Be
ready. There
will be bank runs and banking "holidays". Be ready. There
will be huge flows of "bailout" funds that will effectively nationalize
many industries. Be ready. There will probably be
a stock market collapse. Be
ready. There will be a further collapse in residential real estate
that will make the recent declines seem small, by comparison. Be
ready. Credit delinquencies and foreclosures (on car loans, home loans,
credit card bills, etc.) will dramatically increase. Be ready. There
will be a collapse of the commercial real estate market.
Be ready. Even though the credit available for IPOs and
private mergers and acquisitions has dried
up, there
will
be news
of
some
large and
seemingly
inexplicable acquisitions in the near future, all sanctioned by and
in some cases, underwritten by, and even funded by,
the Federal government. Be
ready. There will be shortages of key
commodities including fuel and food. Be
ready. Strapped for cash, America's highway, rail, water, sewer, telecommunications,
and power infrastructures will degenerate. Be ready. There
will be mass inflation of the US Dollar that will devalue any dollar denominated investments. Be
ready.
And now, to further extrapolate, (with a lower level of confidence): All of
the aforementioned economic dislocation and surging inflation might trigger
mass protests, riots, looting, and arson in the cities. Be ready. There
may then be massive out-migration from the cities. Be ready. Wars
have been known to follow close on the heels of depressions and financial
crises, so there may be
a war, possibly big enough to require another draft. Be ready.
As I've written many times before, the real lynchpin to worry about is the
power grid. If the grid goes down, then all bets are off. Be vigilant,
be well-stocked with a deep larder, and be self-sufficient. Store
extra for charity. If you can afford to, establish a survival
retreat in a lightly-populated
region, and if possible, live there year-round.
I still stand by those recommendations. The time to get ready was yesterday.
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Letter Re: What Preparations Should I Undertake Next?
Jim,
I just finished your novel "Patriots:
Surviving the Coming Collapse". Thanks
so much for writing it! I just wish I had found it sooner. I've always
had a survival bent; I guess it started when I was in the Navy going through
aircrew training. However in retrospect I realize now that it was kind of how
I was brought up. I feel that I'm pretty squared away on the firearms
battery , stored ammunition and communications gear. I hunt, fish and camp with
my family often and am an avid shooter. Other that these things my wife and I
definitely feel that we have to make some huge lifestyle changes for our family
to prepare. We ’ ve been feeling this for the last few years but have just
put it off and I don't really think we knew how to direct our efforts.
We've wanted to move west for some time but just haven ’ t made
the leap. With the collapse appearing to be coming sooner as opposed to later
I have two questions for you.
1) Now that the bank runs have started, how long do you think we have before
things really start to fall apart? I realize this is just speculation but you
r analysis has been pretty spot on so far.
2) If you were in my situation where it appears time is of essence where
would you concentrate your efforts on preparation? I was just wondering if you
had any prioritized kind of list, etc. for people coming to this realization
in what appears to be the final hour?
Thanks so much for your book and all that
you are doing with SurvivalBlog.com.
You truly are a Patriot.
God Bless, - Chad in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
JWR Replies: Thanks for your e-mail. I don't have a crystal
ball, but things seem to be coming to a head, economically. Some of he most
recent evidence
of this: Cryptogon reports 8,500
U.S. Banks; Many Will Die Soon. And meanwhile, we read: Wachovia
loses $8.9B, cuts 6,350 workers, dividend, and that WaMu
isn't trusting cashier's checks from IndyMac Bank.
The credit collapse is only going
to get
worse, and l believe that here in the US it will eventually destroy the
residential and commercial real estate markets, the stock market, the "Big
Three" automobile manufacturers,
the municipal bond market, and many banks. I
just can't
with certainty say when.
As for "final hour" priority purchases, see my background article: The
Desperation Shopping List:
The Seven Critical Items that are Guaranteed to be Stripped From Store Shelves
When You Need Them Most in a Crisis. This article is available
free of charge from Arbogast Publishing, the folks that publish my "Rawles
Gets You Ready" preparedness course.
At this point in your provisioning process, you should be concentrating on
food and fuel storage. (Both fuel for vehicles and fuel for heating your home
and
retreat--firewood,
home heating oil, propane, or low-smoke anthracite
coal.) Be ready to hunker
down and survive the loss of your job. Minimize your debts.
Odds are there
won't be a full-scale collapse. More likely, we will probably witness a deep,
long depression. Think through the implications of being unemployed or under-employed
for a
full
decade. Consider starting a home-based business with a "depression proof" product
or service. As I've stated in the blog before, even in times of double digit
inflation, you
will
still
need
some
cash
income to
pay your bills.
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Letter Re: The Tomato Rebuild--Machining Technology is Crucial to Modern Society, by Thomas G.
Jim,
After reading the recent letter by Thomas G, I felt compelled to offer a response
to demystify some of the technologies he talked about. First, I am a tool
and die maker for an ammunition manufacturer. If it's broken, I fix it, if
we need it, but can't buy it, I design and make it.
From reloading dies, case feeders, powder measures, primer feeders, cold header
press parts, I have done a lot. So I feel somewhat qualified to shed some light
onto how things are done. I'll start basic, and then work up to complex.
Aside from the technology of making metal, the most basic component is arguably
the screw, or the nut and bolt. While these can be made on a lathe, that's
simply not practical in the world of mass production. Since at least the turn
of the previous century (1800-1900) bolts have been made using machines called
headers and rollers. Headers come in two forms, cold and hot. A cold header
is typically used for making bolts, these take wire (and by wire, I mean form,
not size) the wire is then cut, and pushed into a die. A forming die will then
come down and crush the wire that sticks outside the base die, this forms the
bolt head, this can also be done for nails, rivets, screws etc. In the case
of bolts and screws they are then dropped into a thread rolling machine. This
is a device which has two panels which have flattened threads cut onto them,
the bolt rolls between the two panels and is threaded.
Nuts are made by hot-heading. A slug of wire is heated until it's pliable,
and is then smashed into a form. When it's cooled it's then threaded using
a tap.
Gears are made on machines called hobbers, but can be made on a horizontal
mill, or a shaper with an indexing head. The hobber works by holding a gear
blank between centers, and then has a cutter that rotates above the gear. Once
a gear is made, it can be used as a template for casting more, either die cast,
or sand cast, depends on size and material.
A lathe is a fairly basic machine, if anyone has ever seen a wood lathe, a
metal lathe works on the same principle. If you can build a wood lathe, you
can build a metal lathe in a number of iterations. Given the scrap available
from even a post-collapse society cobbling a functional lathe together should
be fairly easy. The same applies to a mill.
For those who have interest, I suggest checking out the gingery machines web
site, and perhaps even buying the book set. While a long time ago I decided
it was
easier to buy and rehab an old lathe than to build a new one, the books will
give even the novice user a good idea about how machines are made.
It is important to note that most machine tools were conceived back in the
1800s. With a few decent measuring tools, almost anything can be made. The
greatest thing about the age we live in currently is our ability to measure.
If you have a few decent sets of dial calipers, a few dial indicators, a pyrometer
(for heat treating) and a stop watch, you can produce just about anything you need.
At times after reading "Patriots" I
laugh at the [refugee] character who was the machinist, (Lon Porter) since
he carried his tools around in a bicycle trailer. While one tool box may satisfy
the
storage space required for some measuring tools, it would take a truck to move
all
of the various tools (tool bits, drill bits, mills, punches, indicators, angle
finders,
etc) that I would consider ideal for a post-apocalyptic machine shop.- AVL
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Letter Re: Turning Your Trinkets Into Storage Food
Dear Mr. Rawles,
As I was divesting of the useless flotsam one sees as a hindrance to true preparedness,
I was inspired to list my trinkets on eBay. (Now, for all those who have a
hatred for eBay [because of their anti-gun policies] , this is a separate issue.)
I also have a PayPal account. That is another stumbling block to some. But
for those of us who are still making the transition to becoming prepared citizens
(from their
former
place
in the
herd of sheeple), this may be a very viable opportunity.
Please hear me out!
So, you sell your trash on EBay and get a [positive] PayPal “cash balance”.
Fees notwithstanding, this “cash balance” spends like “cyber
cash” with vendors who accept PayPal, if “cash” is such a
thing in cyber space, but again, that is not my point here. It is
a means to an end. Nothing more.
And we should all agree that there is no point in using credit to
stock up. So my solution is turn trash into cash and then cash into stash!
Fir example Honeyville
Grain accepts PayPal and sells brown
rice, wheat, flour, and the food grade buckets and Oxygen absorbers
to store it all--nearly anything you could want. And here is the kicker: they
charge a flat fee of $ 4.95, regardless of the size of your
order!
I know it is not as simple as a trip down to your local COSTCO,
but we have seen how that works lately. The prices may not
be dirt cheap, but for a person who is home bound, in a difficult geographical
area (high
rise
dweller), or at
a distance to supplies, you can sell useless white elephant trash on eBay,
print postage right off your computer, the mailman comes and gets it, you earn
a “cash balance” in your PayPal account, you order your food, and
it comes to your door. "Easy peasy."
I do hope that the ambivalence some feel toward eBay and Paypal will not stand
in the way of your sharing what may well be a very useful tool for someone
who needs creative solutions for preparedness in this fast changing situation.
Most kindly, and Semper Fidelis - Laura C. in Virginia
P.S.: My friend the former Marine calls me “Caroline Ingalls, Olivia
Walton, and Sarah Conner all rolled into one!”
JWR Replies: Keep in mind that Honeyville's prices (pr pound)
tend to be higher, since they "build in" the shipping costs to their prices.
Also note that several SurvivalBlog advertisers accept payment via PayPal
for non-gun related merchandise.
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Raising Rabbits for Meat , by Pete C.
In most industrialized countries, including the United States, rabbits are
not commonly considered a meat animal. However, before a TEOTWAWKI situation
arises, small retreats may seriously want to consider raising rabbits as
a reliable source of meat to feed their family, to use as barter or charity.
Rabbits are fairly easy to raise which makes them especially adaptive for
small retreats (to include urban areas) where limited space for other livestock
-
cows, hogs, goats, chickens, etc., are just not practical. In addition, many
localities may not consider rabbits as live stock since they are often pets.
Thus they may be permitted where other animals would not be. If you keep the
area clean and the smell down, neighbors might not even know that you have
them.
Picking your breed:
Before you purchase your rabbits (or any animal), learn as much as you can
about keeping and raising them. Books, breeder magazines, and the internet
have a wealth of information on every topic imaginable. So before you jump
in, do your homework.
Once you decide to raise rabbits for meat, your most essential requirement
is that you get good quality breeding stock, from a reputable breeder and not
your local pet store. Purchase the best animals that you can afford, since
the quality of future litters will depend upon the parents. I recommend either
the Californian or the New Zealand White. Both types are by far the most popular
meat rabbits, of a medium-weight (8-11 pounds), have high milk production,
frequently procreate and have large litters.
Since rabbits are more suited for temperate or cool climates better than hot
ones, those living in warmer climates will need to purchase stock already accustomed
to such weather. Also, make sure that your stock rabbits you receive are clean,
alert, bright-eyed, with dry ears and nose, and no sores on the feet.
How many to start with?
As with many things, when we get started, we often make mistakes. For those
new to rabbits, the most common mistake is starting off with too many at once.
A good rule of thumb might be one buck (male) and three does (females). Usually
does are larger and can be distinguished by the presence of a dewlap, which
is flap of fur below the chin that she pulls to cover her nest during pregnancy.
Rabbit prices can vary considerably depending on quality. A young rabbit could
go for next to nothing (family just trying to get rid of a litter) to a few
hundred dollars (high quality show rabbit) – do not worry because you
want meat rabbits. Most of the time however, you will not find breeding age
rabbits, especially for meat. It just does not pay for a breeder to feed a
young rabbit to breeding age if he does not plan to use the rabbit for himself.
If you do find breeding age meat rabbits, they may be inferior or too old for
breeding. It is always best to start with newly weaned rabbits (eight weeks)
and care for them for the four months or so, so that they can become acclimated
to their new environment prior to breeding age (of six months). You should
be able to find decent quality newly weaned rabbits for as little as $15.00
each.
As you become comfortable and more accustomed to the work/time required and
what you just got into; should you then increase the size of your herd. Maybe
another buck (or two as insurance if something should happen to one of them)
and three more does, but no more than a one-to-five ratio.
Disease:
Rabbits are very hardy and have few diseases. However, since most rabbit diseases
cannot be cured, it is recommended that the diseased animal be disposed. Removal
of one sick animal can also save your entire stock, since disease can spread
quickly between the herd. Most rabbit diseases cannot be transmitted to humans.
Remember, cleanliness is the single biggest contributor to your stocks health.
Clean living space, quality feed and fresh water at all times go a long way.
Space & Housing:
Rabbits are also fairly easy to care for once you have established suitable
housing. It can be something very basic (wire-mesh hutch), since cold is no
real problem for rabbits. The hutch should however, provide protection from
drafts, rain and intense heat. Each rabbit should also have its own hutch (or
cage). This way if disease should hit an individual rabbit, it will not easily
spread and potentially wipe out your entire herd. Individual cages can be placed
in a garage, an empty shed or outdoors (these should be well protected from
the weather). Space is often not a problem because cages can be stacked on
one another. When comparing rabbits to larger meat animals (cattle, hogs, etc.,)
rabbits are much more efficient users of space.
Hutches should be approximately two feet by three feet and at least 18 - 24
inches in height with one inch mesh for the sides (allowing for adequate ventilation)
and half-inch mesh for the floors (so that droppings can fall through to the
cleaning tray) without catching the rabbits’ feet. Mount cages at a convenient
height that will make feeding, cleaning and maintenance easier for you. Clean
and disinfect the trays on a regular basis; scrubbing and disinfecting the
cages/trays between each litter.
If the hutches are outside, they should be placed in a partially shaded area.
The rabbits should always be given their choice between shade and sunshine.
If cages do not have shade, they will need to have a double roof in order to
help keep the rabbits cool. In addition, canvas or plastic flaps can be added
(to be unrolled) to cover the mesh when it rains. The does’ cage should
also have space for a nesting box – one foot high by one foot deep and
approximately twenty inches wide with a six inch high front panel to help keep
newborns inside. The males’ cage should be located between the does’ cages. The
Memsahib
Adds: I encourage rabbit owners to build (or buy) all metal cages.
Wood frames get urine-soaked and eventually become a health hazard. The only
wood included should be a resting board (to prevent the rabbits from getting
sore legs and feet, and those boards should be changed regularly. Also the
Memsahib strongly disagrees with the statement that the rabbits should be in
a partially shaded area. Rabbits are much more sensitive to heat than
cold. We have always located our pens on the north side of the house in full
shade. We
have never lost a rabbit to cold, but people who have purchased our rabbits
have lost rabbits to heat stroke mid-summer when they have not followed our
advice. When the temperature climbs above 90 degrees, we wet down the entire
rabbit area to provide cooling through evaporation. Some rabbit fanciers put
a block of ice in each pen. Others have fans to cool down the hutches. But
these last two methods will be useless, post-TEOTWAWKI.
Food & Water:
Specially prepared rabbit pellets provide the best diet for a breeding herd.
Pellets are nutritious, inexpensive (our local feed store sells 50 pound bags
for less then $12.50 each), store well and are easy to feed. Of the many different
types of pellets, you should get those that are small in size, placing them
in a hopper so as to avoid waste. Pellets can be supplemented with tender hay,
fresh grass clippings, vegetable greens / roots, apples, apple branches, and
weeds such as dandelions, which may be easily available. Just like us, rabbits
also require salt. Therefore, you may want to provide your herd salt licks.
To supplement the rabbit’s diet while giving them a bit more exercise
(to help maintain a healthy herd), place several rabbits in a movable wire
pen (approximately four or five feet square) and placing the pen throughout
your yard. As the rabbits eat the fresh grass and weeds to a comfortable height;
move the cage to another location. The yard is quietly cut and the rabbits
are fed with little effort at all.
As with any animal, clean fresh water is essential. Water bottles may be used
when temperatures are above freezing (otherwise metal pans or crockery bowls
may be used). Change the water on a daily basis. A doe and her litter may drink
as much as one gallon of water per day.
[In the Memsahib's experience mature does are too territorial to be placed
in such a confined area. This would work with littermates of the same sex before
they reached sexual maturity. The rabbits should all be put in the pen at the
same time.]
Mating & Birth:
Medium-weight rabbits such as the New Zealand White are ready to breed at about
six months. Signs to look for in females are restlessness, attempts to join
other rabbits, or a tendency to rub her head against the cage. Once a doe reaches
maturity, it is fertile almost continuously. Place the female in the male’s
cage; where mating should take place almost immediately. If it does not, bring
the female back to her own cage and try again within a few days. Never bring
the male to the female’s cage. She may see him as an intruder and attack
him out of fear.
Approximately twelve days after mating, check for pregnancy by feeling the
abdomen area just above the pelvis, trying to locate the small marble-shaped
embryos. Make sure that you handle the doe gently and use only light pressure.
If you feel nothing, check again in about a week; re-breed if necessary.
[Memsahib I think there is too much chance of injury palpitating the embryos.
Though does can mate at any time, conception is improved by mating them when
the does' vulva is swollen and dark. Careful observation will show this happens
on a three day cycle. If the doe is not receptive to the buck, she likely will
be the following day or the day after. Mating can take place in as little
as 15 seconds. But usually the buck and doe will chase each other around the
pen for a few minutes. If the doe grunts and stomps her hind feet place her
back in her own pen immediately. Be careful
that she does not bite. If the doe is receptive she will stop and slightly
raise her haunches. If the buck is successful he will suddenly fall off the
doe like he has been shot. Watch for this! It can happen very quickly. Return
the doe to her own pen. Mating will stimulate ovulation so be certain to bring
the doe back to the buck's pen for a repeat mating eight hours later. In this
way you will maximize the size of the litter. Using this method I have never
failed to get a doe bred.]
Birth ["kindling"] occurs within 30 days after conception, providing an average
number of seven young (called “kits”) per litter, but can range
from two to twelve. Since a doe can become pregnant, given the right conditions,
by
the simple act of mating; she can get pregnant soon after birth. For the animals
safety however, it is recommended that each doe have no more then three or
four litters per year. Make sure that you place the nesting box (with fresh
hay to insure warmth) at least five days before the young are due. The doe
will begin pulling fur from her dewlap to line and soften the nest as well.
Most likely, the litter will be born at night. Complications are rare when
the doe is in good condition and not over feed. Make sure not to disturbed
the new family for a day or two, so that the doe can calm. Then distract the
doe with some tempting food so that you can look inside the box; removing any
dead or deformed young. Be assured, the doe can take care of her young herself.
Therefore, no hand-raising or special equipment, such as incubators or brooders
will ever be needed.
Kits are born hairless with their eyes closed. Their fur will begin to grow
in by day five or six, after ten to twelve days the kits' eyes will open. At
the age of three weeks their mother will begin to wean them off milk (but will
continue to nurse them until they are eight weeks), during this time, the kits
will begin to eat hay and pellets becoming accustomed to the feed. Anytime
thereafter, from eight to twelve weeks old, they will be ready for butchering,
dressing out four to five pounds of meat each.
You may however also decide to keep a few of the new rabbits for more productivity
or to replace a buck or doe that you might have lost. Although rabbits can
live anywhere from seven to twelve years, having a few extra never hurts.
Slaughtering, skinning and butchering:
These are the tasks that no one really likes, but remember these animals are
providing food for your family. Again, there are many resources describing
the different methods employed and you are encouraged to read up on each. Each
task however, is fairly simple and straight forward. A skilled person can take
a rabbit from cage to fryer in under 30 minutes or less. Note: To facilitate
butchering, do not feed the rabbit for at least twenty-four hours prior to
slaughter. This will help to clear out the animal’s digestive system.
I will discuss one interesting method that was first given to me as instruction
of survival during my training at the U.S. Army Ranger School. It will cause
the animal the least amount of stress, it is considered quick, painless, and
humane.
Begin by holding the rabbit in your arms, petting it to make sure that it is
calm. After a few minutes, hold the animal by the hind legs with one hand,
placing your thumb of the other hand on the neck just behind the ears and your
fingers under the chin. Stretch the animal by pushing down with your thumb;
then raise the animal’s head with a quick movement to dislocate the neck.
The next stage may sound strange but will assist you in skinning the carcass.
The objective here is to quickly remove the animal’s pelt cleanly, neatly
and with minimum damage to either the hide. Since skinning is a skill that
requires experience; I will explain what I call the “pen method.” For
this, make sure that you have your black US Government Skillcraft pen disassembled
and on hand, as you will need it.
With your skinning knife, make your first incision small on one of the back
legs just below the hock (insert the blade under the skin so that only the
hide gets cut). Now take the pen placing the silver tip in the incision, between
the hide and flesh. With the half-pen sticking out, blow hard into the opening.
The forced in air will go between the hide and flesh separating the two, making
the rabbit the size of a basketball. (This same method can also be used on
chickens, producing a skinless bird, no plucking required).
Use your knife a second time to increase the first incision by cutting around
the rest of the leg. Do the same thing on the other leg. A cut is then made
along the inside of the back legs from one foot to the base of the tail; continue
the incision to the other leg. The hide can now be easily removed by pulling
it off like a sweater. There should be little resistance, however if there
is any, use the knife to free the hide. The last step is to free the pelt by
incising a circle around the neck. The pelt can also be saved to make clothes,
used for barter or even charity.
Once the skinning is complete, remove the head so that the carcass can bleed
out. Next remove the entrails. To do this, split the body open down the medium
line of the belly near the anus to the sternum. Special care should be taken
not to nick the gall bladder as this will taint the meat. The entrails are
then removed; the kidney and liver can be saved. The sternum is then cut and
the lungs, heart and trachea are removed (save the heart as well). Lastly,
cut the pubic bone and remove the rectum.
Wash the carcass with cold water, giving it a thorough rinsing to remove stray
fur and blood. Drop the carcass in a bucket of cold (ice) water for five minutes.
Repeat with a second bucket; helping to further cool the meat. This will complete
the bleeding process and making it easier to cut into pieces. Note: Do not
leave the carcass in the bucket for more than fifteen minutes since it will
absorb water.
Lastly, use your knife to divide the rabbit into serving pieces
(usually seven to nine cuts – high in protein/ low in fat). Never use
a cleaver so as to avoid leaving bone splinters. You can now bake, boil, fry,
roast, salt or smoke your rabbit as you wish. Review your survival cooking
library for delicious recipes, and enjoy.
Conclusion:
Since rabbits are fairly inexpensive, have few diseases, multiply quickly and
are easy to care for, it is recommended that small retreats with limited space
consider raising them as a reliable source of meat. Not only will you be able
to feed you family, but help others in need. Remember, as with any new skill,
do not wait until a TEOTWAWKI situation arises as the time to learn something
new. Good-luck and God Bless!
References:
American Federation of New Zealand Rabbit Breeders
American Rabbit Breeders Association
Professional Rabbit Meat Association
Angier, Bradford. "One Acre and Security". Willow Creek Press, 2000
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Raising Rabbits for Meat , by Pete C. »
Three Letters Re: Preparedness Considerations for College Students
Dear Jim:
A suggestion for storing preparedness supplies while in college: Get a small
self storage unit at a local self-store. I had one all through college, which
made it much easier to move from apartment to apartment, as college students
often do. It was very reasonably priced.
I made sure it was in a storage facility that actually locks and closes at
night. The unit was on the north side of the building, so it did not get as
hot as other units. Nowadays, many cities have indoor, climate controlled facilities
that are even more secure.
The advantages are that your gear is all in one place, ready to go. I consider
the facilities more secure than dwellings. They are certainly more anonymous
than dwellings, as no one except who you tell will know anything about your
personal business, and what is stored there. And as stated before, it makes
moving much easier. - Mark R. in New Mexico
Sir:
My comment on the college student who advises petroleum geologist as a
post-TEOTWAWKI career
and advises against anything to do with electricity. My advice would be the
opposite. Anything to do with oil requires a huge infrastructure of refineries,
financial institutions et cetera, while small hydro,
wind and solar
will still be going and still viable. The current production output dictates
that there will be electric heaters, motors, computers etc available and
anyone who can make or keep them operational will be in demand. I live in an
area
where almost all of the current production is hydro and because the plants
are so old (50-90 years) they would still operating, especially
small ones in out of the way places that are either not on the grid now or
can be configured
to run off the grid. - Karen L.
Hi -
Regarding Sam's recent comments to avoid any career involving a computer,
I believe that to be unwise advice. As with any career choice, there are
sub-specialties within a given field that can be very lucrative. I've been
an I.T. security professional for over 15 years, and I can say firsthand
that choosing anything to do with networks or better yet information assurance
and security would be a very, very wise choice.
Demand for skilled, intelligent computer and network security professionals
is at an all-time high, and is increasing steadily. Further, the quality of
the people graduating and the quality of those who have been in I.T. for 3
years or more is steadily decreasing. This is creating a "perfect storm" of
high demand and low supply which translates directly into increased income,
basically allowing a skilled I.T. security pro to name their price. On my team
alone we have had two openings that we cannot fill and we've been interviewing
so-called candidates (I use the term loosely since these folks barely qualified
at any level) for months.
Information security is an even better choice if, like Sam and many others,
you subscribe to the long, slow decline theory rather than the cataclysmic
event theory of preparedness. As society slowly disintegrates, the demand for
information security pros by large corporations, governments and even well-to-do
individuals will only increase. People and companies will always want to make
money...think of the TV series "Jericho" to see what I mean.
The trick is to keep your skills and training up to date, and to keep yourself
from getting locked into any one position or company (or even geographical
location) for any length of time. Stay mobile...a "hired gun" or troubleshooter,
for example. A solid information security pro can easily command a salary in
the $100,000-$200,000 range even in the Midwest. With the right combination
of certifications, experience, and skills, a good pro can make even more working
for a large company
or law firm on the coasts, in the South, or even overseas.
A frugal prepper working as an infosys security pro for 3-5 years or so could
sock away a serious amount of money, more than enough to buy a sizable chunk
of productive land outright and stock it with everything needed to go off the
grid. The point is not to over-react to what you think will happen...leverage
your skills to make as much income as possible while you can, live well below
your means, and use the difference to launch and establish the lifestyle you
really want.
Another group in the I.T. industry that is in high demand are the business
continuity and disaster recovery specialists, as well as facilities management
professionals. Again, as things get worse in our society, the demand for people
who can help ensure business continuity (and business security) for a large
corporation can make a very respectable salary. In my experience, companies
like GE, Proctor&Gamble, Wal-Mart, pharmaceutical companies, et cetera
will do everything they can to keep making money no matter what, even if it
looks
like
the world is ending, and they will pay handsomely for people who can help them
do it. - JT
« Letter Re: Retreat Livestock Guardians |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Horse Breeding Now, and in the Future
Jim,
I wanted your opinion on something. I raise Quarter horses, mostly show prospects
and have done this for a lifetime. I own the stallion, I do the breeding of
my own mares and ship [straws of frozen] semen all over the country for others.
I also train outside horses for a living. As you well know the horse economy
like everything else
is going down the tubes. I have been down sizing for the past three years as
the Holy Spirit has prompted [my string] going [down] from 60 to 30. I did
not breed any of my mares back this year and my focus is continuing to downsize.
I know the job these horses were bred for is no longer going to be available.
They will be needing a new job. My question to you is, do you think there would
be a market through SurvivalBlog for any of my stock? I breed for good minds,
great bones and of course movement (which I understand would not matter to
a survivalist) disposition and beauty. These are hearty horses, I believe they
could make great work horses, pack horses or just about anything you asked
them to be. I think the catch for the horses I would have available would be
the fact that some are untrained 2 and 3 year olds. I'm madly working on breaking
this last big group, but I can only ride so many a day.
It is just a passing idea. This
is my web site if you want to take a peek at what I have. Thanks for your
time and honesty. God Bless, - Merry
JWR Replies: In the short term, it might be a good idea to
reduce your breeding stock, but in the long term, your brood mares may make
you wealthy. I'm sure that some SurvivalBlog readers will be contacting you,
particularly looking for mares.
One of the biggest concerns for horse owners, at present, is the high price
of feed. The global grain shortage has pushed up feed prices tremendously.
Because grain prices will remain high, I expect hay prices to stay high, in
sympathy. (Markets are all about supply and demand.) It didn't help that last
spring and summer were dry in the western US, and most hay growers only got
one marketable cutting. This pushed hay prices up to insane prices. This prompted
many cattlemen and horse breeders to thin their herds.
In the long term, however, high fuel prices and spot shortages will likely
cause a resurgent interest in working horses. This is most likely in regions
with lush pasture and plentiful hay. In the arid west, where hay is a product
of circular irrigation, working horses probably won't make quite so strong
a comeback.
In a post-Peak
Oil collapse, horse breeding stock--for both draft horses and saddle
horses--would be like gold.
My advice: If you don't have extensive pastures and own your own hay ground
and hence buy a lot of hay each year, then thin your string of brood mares
down to just your very best couple of dozen, for the next few years. However, maintain
your ranch infrastructure, so that you can "ramp up" to
larger production, if need be. Do not sell off any pasture ground, hay ground,
stock panels, or haying equipment! Also, hang on to every saddle and piece
of tack that you own. In fact, if you have the chance to buy more tack (as
the horse market continues to crash), and you have a secure storage space that
will keep it safe from mold and mice, then invest in more tack.
Doing so will take advantage of the fire sale prices on tack that we will no
doubt see for the next few years. To
amplify on our previous exchange of e-mail: You
can breed horses, but you can't breed tack. In a few years, all those
new horse buyers will be screaming for saddles and tack! Buy low and sell high.
One ironic situation we may see in the next decade: All over rural America,
there are antique horse-drawn hay mowers that are now rusting away as yard
ornaments. I predict that many of them will be oiled up and pressed into service.
Hopefully, they won't be too far gone.
« Weekly Survival Real Estate Market Update |Main| Note from JWR: »
Economic Climate Change: The Long Winter May Begin This Summer
I've had several consulting clients contact me in recent weeks, all with notes
of fear in their voices. They realize that something is horribly wrong with
the economy, but they cannot properly isolate and articulate the problem. I
haven't been able to calm them, however, because to an extent I share their
anxiety.
In
my estimation,
the "something wrong" that we sense is nothing short of a monumental
shift in the
economic
climate.
America is clearly headed for a recession. Most economic recessions are simply
a product of the business cycle. These recessions are relatively mild and they
often last
just
12
to 24 months.
The
economic
engine just readjusts and everything soon gets back to normal. But this
nascent recession in 2008 is something radically different, and it won't be
short-lived.
The current slow down was triggered
by a collapse in the global credit market. For decades, the global credit market
grew and grew, in an enormous debt spiral. Our neighbors to the south saw
trouble coming decades ago, because their economies were at the time more debt-dependent
than our own. As far back as the mid-1980s, their newspapers featured political
cartoons that portrayed an enormous, insatiable monster that was invariably
captioned "La Dueda"--"The Debt". Our
cousins in Latin America saw it coming first, but the dark side of the debt
nemesis will soon
be clear to everyone.
Because modern banking in the western world
is based on interest charges that create continuously
compounding debt, credit cannot continue
to
grow
indefinitely. At some point the excesses of malinvestment become so great
that the entire system collapses. This is what we are now witnessing: a banking
panic that is spreading uncontrollably as wave after wave of ugly
debt gets
destroyed
by margin calls and subsequent business failures.
Some economists are fixated on reading charted histories--and unrealistically
expect that by doing so that the can reliably predict future market moves.
(They can't do that any more than I could predict the
bends in the road ahead by keeping a chart of the preceding left and right
turns
of
my
car's steering wheel. My apologies for any offense to my friend The
Chartist Gnome, but you
are fooling yourself.) Although they are working from a flawed premise at
the micro level, the chartists do
have
some
things
right
on the macro
level:
There are major
economic "seasons" and even climate changes. The most vocal chartists
like Robert
Prechter hold to what is called the
Elliot
Wave Theory.
And
the big
bad
nasty
in this school of thought is a Kondratieff
Winter. This "K-Winter" is an economic depression phase that
the world has not fully experienced since the 1930s. An economic winter does
not end
until
after the
foundations
of industry
and consumer demand are rebuilt. This can be a painful process, often culminating
with war on a grand scale. (It was no coincidence that the Second World
of the early 1940s was an outgrowth of the Great Depression of the 1930s.)
The US Federal Reserve and the other central banks are furiously pumping liquidity
to the best of their ability, but in the long run they will not be successful.
At best, dumping billions in cash on the economy will delay a depression by
perhaps a year or two. But inevitably, a K-Winter depression will come.
And the longer that it is delayed,
then the worse the depression will be. Further inflating the debt bubble will
only make matters worse. I think that veteran market analyst Jim
Rogers had it right, in a recent interview.
Take a few minutes to watch that video. Jim Rogers sees the big picture. I
wouldn't be surprised to hear that he has gone off somewhere to hunker in a
bunker.
"Big Picture" Implications
As I've mentioned before, hedge funds are
presently most at risk in the unfolding liquidity crisis, because
they use lots of leverage in lending funds that they themselves have borrowed.
They borrow short and lend
lon, effectively use debt
compounded upon debt. Many,
many hedge
funds
will
be bankrupted
before
the end of 2008.
Even more alarming is the scale of global derivatives
trading, particularly for credit default swaps (CDS). Derivatives
are a relatively new phenomenon, so derivatives contract holders have
not yet experienced a major recession
or
a depression.
Thus,
it
is difficult
to predict
what will
happen
in a genuine K-Winter phase. In a perfect world, derivatives
are a nicely balanced mechanism, where there are parties and counterparties,
and
every
derivatives
contract equation balances out to have a neat "zero" at its
conclusion. But we don't live in a perfect world: Companies go bankrupt.
Contracts
get breached.
Counterparties disappear and disappoint. We have not ever experienced
a derivatives full scale "blow up", but I predict that when
it happens, it will be spectacular.
The scale
of
derivatives trading is monumental, and the vast majority of the population
is blissfully
ignorant
of both its scale and the implications of a derivatives crisis. There
are presently about $500 trillion of derivatives contracts in play. That
is many times the size of the gross product of the global economy,
but the average man on
he street
has no idea what is going on. It won't be until after the giant
derivatives casino implodes that the Generally Dumb Public (GDP) awakens
and asks, "What
the heck happened?" Since the credit market began to collapse last
summer, the number of new derivatives
contracts has dropped precipitously. But whether the aggregate derivative
market is $400 trillion versus $500 trillion, when a crisis occurs
there will
undoubtedly
be some very
deep drama.
The next decade will likely be characterized by successive waves of inflation
and deflation, and perhaps some
of both simultaneously, at different levels. Countless corporations, and
perhaps a few currencies or even whole governments will go under as this tumult
plays out. The current low interest rates will soon be replaced by double-digit
rates, much like we saw in the late1970s. The dollar will lose value in foreign
exchange, and may collapse completely. The Mother of All Bailouts (MOAB)
will result in mass
inflation.
The bull markets in silver and gold will surge ahead, propelled by economic
and currency instability.
(Investors
will
be
desperate
to find
a safe
haven,
when
currencies and equities are falling apart.)
Risk Mitigation
Be ready to "winter over" the coming K Winter depression. That will require:
1.) Prayer.
2.) Friends that you can count on (a "retreat group"). 3.) A deep
larder, and 4.) An effective
means of self defense with proper
training. (For each of those four factors, see the
hundreds of archived articles and letters at SurvivalBlog.com for details.)
Since large-scale layoffs
seem
likely, it would also be wise to have a
second income from
a recession-proof
home-based
business.
In the event of a "worst case" (grid
down) economic collapse,
it would be prudent to have a
self-sufficient retreat in a rural area that is well-removed from major
population centers. Get the majority of your funds out of
anything that is dollar-denominated, and into tangibles, as soon as possible.
The very
best tangible that you can buy is a
stout house on a piece
of productive farm land. It will not only preserve your wealth, but
living there may very well save your life.
« Letter Re: Sword Ban Begins on April 6th in the United Kingdom |Main| Notes from JWR: »
Letter Re: Learn How to "Roll Your Own" Ammo
James;
One skill that will be in great demand by almost everyone in a post-TEOTWAWKI environment
will be a skilled and resourceful ammunition reloader. Equipment
is relatively
inexpensive and downright cheap if you know where to look. Pawn
shops almost never buy reloading equipment because it is slow and, or difficult
to move. I have made arrangements with a few pawn shop owners and when a batch
of reloading stuff comes available from estates they just give them my number.
No matter how much gear there is, a pawn shop will only offer, if they even
make an offer about a hundred bucks. I usually try to offer the widows a fair
price but in the end you are still buying for pennies on the dollar. Often
reloading gear will be given to you if you show an interest and a little respect.
It is an opportunity to acquire odd caliber dies, bullets, brass and often
large stores of powder. The old reloading books are great references for older
powders
that will still be usable if stored properly. Always store your powder in a cool,
dry and dark place. I am using some 30 year old powder that was stored this way
and it works just fine. One can never have too much powder, [too many primers,]
or
too many reloading
manuals.
Any gun shop that sells reloading equipment has free loading data provided my
the powder and bullet manufactures and these small books can be acquired by writing,
calling or going to the powder and bullet companies web sites. These are invaluable
resources as they try to show case how versatile their products can be and the
large reloading manuals will leave out some less than ideal powder, bullet, caliber
combinations that we may be forced to try some day simply because of space limitations
and the large manuals are somewhat expensive although necessary. Remember that
we are trying to make safe reliable ammo that will suffice for the purpose at
hand and we are not trying to come up with the perfect powder, bullet combo that
will better factory ballistics.
JWR is right when he suggests that you stock only common caliber ammo in large
quantities for yourself. However, there are still going to be quite
a few .32 Winchester Special, 38-55 and especially 30-30 Winchesters around that
will
need
ammunition
and
all
three of those caliber cases can be made from fired .30-30 cases. A host of
calibers can have their brass cases formed from the very common .30-06 such as
.270 Winchester and .25-06 just by sizing the necks down. The.308 Winchester
(7.62x51mm) is
the
parent case for .243 Win,..260 Rem, and 7mm-08. Simple neck resizing is all that
is necessary and all it takes is a little knowledge and the correct dies.
Much more elaborate cartridge conversions can be done by annealing the cartridge
brass (necks only--never the bases) simply by standing the cases in
an inch of water, heating them until red with a torch and then knocking them
over to cool
in the water. This softens the brass and makes splitting case necks less likely.
Brass work hardens as it is reloaded and this process is a useful skill to prolong
case life even for common calibers. Calibers like the 7.5x55mm Schmidt Rubin
in the well made Swiss [K31] rifles that have flooded the market the past few
years are easy to fabricate from the very common .308 Win cases if you know where
to
look for specs and the place to look is "The Handloaders Manual of Cartridge
Conversions"
by Donnelly & Towsley from Stoeger Publishing. It is a great resource and
it covers more than 1,000 cartridges in detail with accurate drawings, capacities
and dimensions. With this book a set of good calipers, micrometer and reloading
data there are very few calibers that one can not reloaded.
Anytime someone asks you if you want a small lot of odd caliber of brass take
it and clean, sort and store it. It doesn't matter if you don't have a gun in
that caliber, someone, somewhere will or it might be used to create cases for
another caliber There are only four sizes of boxer primers so stock up on those.
Large rifle, small rifle, large pistol and small pistol and don't worry about
magnum primers just use one of the hotter standard primers such as Winchester
's Stainless. The only caveat here is gas auto loading rifles should only use
CCI #34 or #41 hard military primers to prevent slam fires.
There are some powders that are very versatile and can be used for many calibers,
for example Unique handgun powder can be used for just about every pistol caliber.
It might not be the perfect choice for certain cartridges but it would certainly
serve the purpose.
Reloading skills can be bartered for other things because a firearm without ammunition
doesn't even make a good club. As charity you might be the only person that can
give a family a means of self defense by reloading ammo for them that is impossible
to obtain any other way.
Since you can't reload .22 rimfire ammo, buy a couple of the 550 round boxes
every time that you are at Wal-Mart, or mail order 5,000 round. cases. This is
something
that
almost everyone can afford. While you are making connections at the pawn shops
pick up some used .22 rifles, I often can buy Glenfield and Marlin autos for
less than 50 bucks apiece if I shop in the spring and avoid the 1st and 15th
of the month and go on the first of the week. Pawn shop owners are more likely
to cut you a deal at these times because of cash flow. What a great trade item
or gift to some deserving but unprepared family
Bullet casting equipment is often included with reloading equipment and this
simple skill is another arrow in your quiver. The
Cast Bullet Association has
a free forum that has a wealth of knowledge and any question
that you have will be answered by the top experts in this field in an informative
and entertaining way. Cast bullets were used for all hunting and war purposes
for centuries before jacketed bullets came along in the late 1800s. You will
notice that some of the cast bullet rifle shooters are getting 10 shot groups
around an inch at 200 yards! I assure you that my efforts have never been that
amazing but then I'm not a top competitor.
Making bullets and reloading ammo could make your talents very sought after over
a fairly large geographic area so be prudent about your security measures.
Word of your skills might bring about many barter opportunities that otherwise
might be impossible. As charity, you might save an entire family's lives for
very little investment of resources and we all want to help the good guys out
if we
can. Folks will want to insure your safety if you have built up
a
relationship
with them and provide a necessary service.
I have an extensive list of reloading equipment but have invested less than the
cost
of
a FAL or M1A.
I've been at this for almost 40 years now and have taught Boy Scouts, housewives,
service veterans, preachers or anyone that asked the necessary
skills to produce quality ammunition. Several times I have been given firearms
simply because ammo was unavailable and I haven't failed to produce good safe
ammo for any gun yet. Get your beans, bullets and band-aids in order first, and
then get started looking for the tools and acquire the skills to become the community
Ammo Cobbler. - East Tennessee Hillbilly
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Family Learning for Preparedness, by T.D.
My husband and I are like minded, (he realized way before I did), and he and
I didn’t
meet until I was in my mid-thirties. I was considered weird, called a tomboy
and later, a gear head. Don’t get me wrong, I cook, sew, knit and crochet.
I had many interests though and wanted to learn.
What I have seen lately and in some people we met that are like minded, is the
lack of initiative on the part of some spouses. I have seen some women and men
that
will ridicule their spouses or will just roll their eyes and feign interest.
I have seen some that their spouses have prepared and bought supplies but their
other half has no clue even how to do the basics. If you are truly vested in
being prepared, your spouse and children need to brush up on the basics also.
This should give you some good ideas on how to learn where you are lacking.
Do you have a grain mill? Mortar and pestle? Does he/she know the basics? Can
all of you bake and cook from scratch? Are your children picky or will they eat
everything you put in front of them? Can they sew? Do they know the basics on
edible plants? Can they hunt or fish? Can your children do what is needed? Can
you do the repairs needed to your home/vehicle?
Our daughter is 16 and she is learning about cars, she can fish with the best
of them and she is a good shot. Our youngest is three years old and he will be
learning as we go. Both will be able to cook (one does now), sew, set traps,
care for
farm
animals, strip and clean weapons, basic survival, fix the family relic (car)
and hopefully get through anything that is thrown at them.
The first step is to start early – my husband is Creole and we eat a lot
most people don’t. Turtle soup, crawfish, head cheese and some even eat
tripe. My son will eat everything he is offered, he was eating crawfish when
he only had 2 teeth. So our routine was this; we fix it and tell you later what
it is. It works well with older kids; younger kids will eat what mom and dad
eat. It is a well known fact that most really young or really old will not eat
a “different” diet, unless they have been doing so all along.
When your child starts showing interest in guns, at about 6-7 years old, take
them hunting. Show them what guns do. My father did that I have always had respect
for what they can do. Children love doing what mom and dad do so they will take
to hunting with pride. We start ours fishing at 2-3 years old for small fish
and getting them used to being around the water supervised. They know how to
check nets and bait hooks by the time they’re 5, that’s when we teach
them how to clean the fish (mom or dad using the sharp knife).
With cars teach them as soon as they’re out of a booster seat. I have
seen too many men and women who can’t even check the oil in their own
cars. Your children should be a help in most situations not a hindrance, even
if it’s
just handing you the tools you need. Our three year old will do most simple
tasks
he is shown and he does them willingly, he is so happy to be a help.
If you are in the military they have a lot of classes on the base that can
help with some of this. Most bases have a repair shop and you can utilize their
mechanics
and tools to learn about repairing your car. They offer other
things so check
into at the base [or post] repair/craft shop.
Work out your plans to include the jobs you expect your children to do. When
things get bad, if we’re on the move our 16 year old is to keep her little
brother while we move and defend if necessary. When stationary she can shoot,
load and take care of first aid. She will be able to pull her own weight and
then some. Our littlest one will follow suit as he grows.
Use barter to attain the skills you don’t have, watch family, use the
Internet and community college. Take a vacation to Pennsylvania or Tennessee.
You can learn a lot in an Amish community, I learned how to make butter and
I am
going back so I can
learn to shear. Some teach and charge others will share what they know for
free. You
can also buy produce and goods from the Amish. Davy Crockett days are in August
and you can watch the craftsman work and it is for the whole family. All vendors
must have a "period" looking tent up and must dress in period clothing.
The on site cooking is also period.
Volunteer to gain skills; veterinarian office and humane society is a good
place to learn about wound care, antibiotic use and dosage, just go watch,
then you
will learn, most places will not turn down a volunteer. Zoos are a great place
to learn about husbandry, housing and more than basic wound care, as smaller
zoos take care of injuries themselves (after a vet is consulted), most of what
you learn at these places about wound care can be used on humans. Colleges
have book sales where you can get books on farming and some older trades/crafts
very
cheap (books are 1-5 dollars). Local small gun and knife shows are also a bountiful
source of information [and logistics], from hard to find books to hard to
find ammo.
Buy reference books! We recently went to a "Friends of the Library" book sale and spent just $12. We now have the McGraw-Hill's 20 volume set on technology ($5), doctor's desk references ("fill the box for $2"), a whole box. These included: beginner, intermediate and advanced practical chemistry, triage handbook, a nurse's reference guide, medical encyclopedias, and a diagnosis reference. We also got the EIR special report "Global Showdown Escalates", Practical Handyman from Greystone Press ($3). In many towns, you can join the Friends of the Library for $5 to $10 dollars annually, or just hit the book sales once per year. Our $12 investment filled the back seat of our car!
Even if you don’t live where your retreat is take the time to “visit” the
area. Go to the local library, stop at the local shops and grab the touristy
maps. In Amish communities the maps tell you about the local farms and what
produce and goods they sell. They have fliers that have information on classes
offered
locally. The department of education has listings for adult education classes
on things like welding. Introduce yourself to the locals, visit the farmers
and the farmers market. Attend the church while you are there, it is the quickest
way into the fold and into being welcomed by the locals. Whether you live there
permanent or you will someday, you will want to be on friendly terms right
away
then when it all goes down.
In Tennessee when we were there, we saw newcomers (less than one year there)
helping
and
being helped by the Amish. Neighbors coming together when they’re needed,
no questions asked other than when do you need me. They all pull together and
work well.
If your family isn’t ready, or is almost ready, taking these steps or some
of these steps will help you get there. If you’re not “together” as
a family in your preparedness then you need to find a way to be. Get the spouse
interested in this even during an outing or vacation. Find a way to get your
children involved. Preparing isn’t just for one person in the family, it’s
for everyone. - T.D.
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Letter Re: Are Simultaneous Inflation and Deflation Possible?
Hi Jim,
Your excellent post about the possibility of simultaneous inflation and deflation
got my head to spinning about ways to protect ourselves from a seemingly
near-certain banking crisis. Such a scenario would certainly be a major headache
for everyone, no matter how large their bank accounts, but it would be a
huge problem for those of us who are in business for ourselves and need a
constant cash flow through the banking system to pay payroll, expenses, taxes,
etc. Therefore, I wondered if you and/or any of your readers had any suggestions
for preparing for banking problems ahead of time, just like we do (and have
done) with other areas of life. I find that one of the greatest benefits
of your blog is that almost every post stirs me mentally and spiritually,
to evaluate and re-evaluate my attitudes and actions when in comes to preparedness,
and to pray over them for guidance. Perhaps others have been thinking likewise,
especially when it comes to the banking crisis. I'll start out with my own
situation and suggestions, and hopefully others will build on them - or refute
them if needed.
My situation is that our seasonal family business usually generates enough
in the first 6-9 months of the year to support us for the remainder of the
year. In the past, we have kept these funds liquid in our corporate bank account
and used them for payroll and regular operating expenses each month as the
year progresses. Now, however, I am concerned about a possible banking crises
(bank runs, failures, limits on withdrawals, etc.) that is getting more press
- even in the mainstream media. How can I best protect my assets, not lose
what we've worked hard in the early part of the year and still have the money/cash/etc.
available for use? I can vividly imagine a full-blown banking crisis like you
mentioned in your article - and I shudder to realize that available funds we
depend on could be "frozen" for a time (at best) or gone completely
(at worst) in such a scenario.
I've thought of several options:
1. Spread the risk among several banks by opening other accounts, with each
account holding a small amount of our total funds, so that if one bank fails,
all our "eggs" would not break in one basket. This would be a bit
cumbersome, but could work unless/until things got really bad across the board
in the whole banking system.
2. Pull out more cash now and use petty cash to pay for things instead of checks
and credit cards. This would be a paperwork nightmare to keep a lot of receipts
and could be a security problem, but would certainly be liquid. However, would
this also open us up to look like drug dealers or doing something shady?
3. Immediately purchase in bulk any items we would need for the future, prepay
any bills for the year, and keep only enough money in the bank to pay large
expenses. I like this idea since it would also beat inflation on basic goods
we already need and use. We already have a one-year surplus of food and emergency
supplies, etc., but perhaps we need more. However, this wouldn't help meet
payroll, taxes, etc., unless we had to start paying our employees in toilet
paper and food stuffs!
4. Buy gold and/or silver now with the funds we have. Sell the same later in
the year, as the funds are needed, and when the metals (hopefully) have risen
compared to the dollar. I'm not sure how feasible this idea is. Would there
be any advantage at all, or would my profit get eaten up in transaction/sales
fees, etc.? Also, if there were a large scale banking crisis, how do we possibly
exchange our gold and silver for FRNs (or whatever the currency may be)?
I can certainly see the wisdom in having supplies positioned in advance and
thus be able to "hunker down" in place or at our retreat for a time.
There are so many possibilities and variables! Perhaps a combination of all
of these - and more - would be best. Well, that's a start. Thanks for any light
you may be able to shed on this. - Greg in North Carolina
JWR Replies: My advice is to use a combination of
all of the options that you described, with the exception of option #2. In
the coming
years, as inflation kicks
in, greenback cash will start to seem uncomfortably perishable. OBTW, I suspect
that the "$10,000
in cash or equivalents" Federal tax reporting threshold will
be frozen indefinitely, despite
the
unceasing march of inflation. Hence, more and more innocent people will come
under undue scrutiny from the IRS.
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Letter Re: Hawaii-Specific Disaster Preparations
Jim,
Greetings from another SurvivalBlog newbie. I discovered your site back in
the spring of this year and all I could say then was “Wow! I think I’ve
found a home!” I’ve been lurking here ever since. I’d been
wandering in the wilderness of flame-filled newsgroups and not-quite-filling-enough
survival/self-reliance publications since the days of “Survival Tomorrow”,
nearly thirty years ago. Back then, I mostly spent time just collecting information
on various survival topics while making only small, half-hearted preparations.
At last, here is a site that has revived my slumbering interest in the disaster
preparedness movement and inspired my wife my son and me to undertake concrete
measures to improve our family’s Readiness Quotient (RQ) if you will.
One of the first things I did was to send off a check for a 10
Cent Challenge membership (That’s right, the check is in the “snail
mail”:
No kidding.)
As a bit of background, I’m ex-Air Force and my wife is former Navy;
we have one grown son. Like “SF” and “Hawaiian K”,
I’m a resident of the islands (Oahu.) I've been here going
on 40 years now, which makes me an old-timer or “Kamaaina.” My
wife was born and raised here. However, our family’s situation may differ
somewhat from those of the above-mentioned islanders in that we live in a townhouse
development and, therefore, have limitations on what we can do in the way of
emergency preparedness. (Correct me, if I’m wrong, gentlemen.) Nonetheless,
we’ve not been idle.
A couple of months ago, we began our food storage program with an “extremely
productive” visit to the local Costco. Our one mistake was that we loaded
up on a large amount of, subsequently recalled, chili and sauce items which
we must now replace. We also laid in a substantial supply of bottled water,
and we also have several 6 gallon plastic water containers that were purchased
several years ago, which can be filled in an emergency and stored in an available
closet (they’ve come in handy during several past power outages and at
least one hurricane.) We’ll continue to add to our stocks, buying a little
more than we use each time we go grocery shopping. We also intend to purchase
the food storage planning software you mentioned, in an earlier post. Then,
we can computerize the associated record-keeping (with hardcopy backup…of
course!)
Now, having food supplies is one thing; but, one also needs a way of cooking
without electricity if necessary. For that, we have available that great Hawaiian
standby, the outdoor grill. Currently, we rely on a large propane powered model
with two tanks of fuel, but will soon back it up with a smaller, charcoal fueled
grill or “Hibachi” for lesser cooking duties and to act as a substitute
if propane becomes scarce or unavailable.
Our emergency lighting needs are handled with a Coleman propane lantern and
several bottles of fuel, as well as several sizes of battery-powered flashlights
and a more than adequate supply of batteries of all sizes. In the future, we
will be reducing both the types and quantity of conventional batteries on hand
and adding more rechargeables, along with both AC & solar chargers to keep
them ready to go. I’ve also been checking into various types of indoor & outdoor
emergency lighting, but, again, options are limited due to townhouse association
rules.
Family survival transport consists of two late model SUVs
for the wife and me. We’re evaluating obtaining/storing backup electronic
modules for both vehicles as the conversion to an older points/condenser style
ignition
system is not a practical or affordable option for us. Supplemental cargo capacity
is available via our son’s 1990s-vintage mid-size pickup. If the need
to “bug
out” arises, we’ll be able to reach relatives elsewhere on this
island, or (now that a practical inter-island passenger and vehicle ferry system
is about to begin operation) more remote areas of the “neighbor islands” – given
enough advance warning. I hold a private pilot’s license; however, I’m
not sure how much use that would be in a rapidly developing emergency situation.
You can’t haul many persons and their bug-out gear in a Cessna 172, at
least not if you want to go very far.
Our weakest area, at the moment, is in the realm of first-aid and medical supplies
and training. I’d like to take a beginning first-aid and CPR course from
our local Red Cross chapter, but considering their schedule of course offerings
and my work situation, it’s going to require quite a bit of juggling;
but, later in September or October looks like a good bet. Right now, we have
only a few band-aids and some OTC medications on hand to deal with minor cuts
and scrapes encountered around the house. Also, we need to acquire our basic
health and medical library. I took a medical terminology course, but that was
over twenty years ago and I haven’t had to use it in the last five years.
Speaking of libraries, our survival library is small, but growing; and, includes
books by Joel Skousen, Gene Gerue (“How to Find Your Ideal Country
Home”),
and Ragnar Benson. We also have Internet access to several other survival and
self-reliance related web-sites in addition to SurvivalBlog.com.
Home defense is one area of preparation we’re currently beefing up. We
have one AR-15 rifle
(one of those “mouse guns” you’re not
fond of) and one .40 cal. S&W pistol with a couple of hundred rounds for
each. Next up is a reliable pump-action shotgun; right now, I’m leaning
toward a Remington 870. Planned additions include either an M1A or
FN[-FAL]-type MBR. However, the cost of acquiring enough arms and ammo to equip
each family
member means that this aspect of our preparations will proceed at a slower
pace.
Communications: Presently, that consists of FRS units
for each family member; a CB base
station – able to operate on either AC or 13.8 volt [DC] battery
power - and one mobile [CB] unit in my SUV. Beside the usual emergency AM/FM/SW
portable radio, we also have a trunking UHF/VHF scanner and a weather monitor
with National Weather Radio/Specific Area Message Encoding (NWR/SAME)
capability. All of these units have battery backup power. Our CB coverage is
limited by
the necessity of utilizing a low-profile base station antenna. (Again,
due to townhouse association rules.) I obtained my Novice class Amateur radio
license years ago, but never used it. That’s about to change as I will
be upgrading to Technician and then General class within the next few months.
We are now seriously pursuing debt reduction. I will be eligible to retire
from my present work as a civilian contractor for the Army in about three years.
My wife also has 20 + years in Civil Service with the military. For my part,
I’m
not waiting for retirement, but have been preparing my resume and following
job leads in addition to researching some ideas for a home-based business.
Once the means of providing an income are more clearly defined, we hope to
sell our Hawaii residence and relocate (as you’ve advised) to a more
suitable area in the western mainland. I grew up a city kid, but with close
family ties and much youthful experience in the Michigan countryside; I’m
no stranger to farm life, though it has been a long time since I had to rise
before dawn. My wife has a “passing” acquaintance with hard work
as well, having helped to raise four younger siblings in a family of six while
going to school and working in the pineapple cannery.
So, what would you say of our efforts up to this point, and what advice would
you offer for the future; particularly with regards to our plans for relocation?
I really enjoy my daily blog visits. I’m always anxious to see what you
and your readers, especially, have to offer regarding their own disaster preparations
and efforts to become more self-reliant. I urge you to continue to provide
this timely and much needed service to those of us out here that have glimpsed
the future and need your and your audiences’ experience and knowledge
to prepare to meet it. Thank you, again, and as Michael Biehn’s character
(the Colonial Space Marine corporal in “Aliens”) said, “Stay
frosty.” Aloha, - Gandalf
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Letter Re: Safe Businesses in an Economic Depression?
Mr. Rawles:
I'm convinced that given the bursting of the Debt Bubble, the American economy
is about to take The Big Swim, a lot like it did back in the 1930s. If
this does happen, what sort of businesses will be safe? Do you know
what sorts of businesses bucked the down-trend in the 1930s? Thanks, - Chester
JWR Replies: According to statistics published some 20 years
ago by Dr.Ravi Batra,
the safest businesses and industries during the worst years of the Great Depression
(1929-1933) were:
Repair shops
Educational services (A lot of young men that couldn't find work borrowed money
to go to trade schools and college.)
Healthcare services
Bicycle shops
Bus transportation
Gasoline service stations
Second hand stores
Legal services
Drug or proprietary stores
To bring that list up to date, I would speculatively add a few more sectors
and business that are likely to do well in the event of another major depression:
Home security/locksmithing (since a higher crime rate is inevitable in bad
economic times.)
Entertainment/diversions (such as DVD rentals)
Truck farming/large scale vegetable gardening (since just 2% of the population
now feeds the other 98%--whereas back in the 1930s the US was still a predominantly
agrarian society)
Export consumer goods (since the US Dollar is likely to continue to slip versus
most other currencies)
« Letter Re: The Pension Gamble: Cash In or Stand Pat? |Main| Note from JWR: »
A Second Income--A Key Goal for Family Preparedness
I often encourage folks that are preparedness-minded to develop a second income
stream. Why is this important? "Living off the land" style self sufficiently
is an admirable and commendable goal. But
even if you are living truly "debt
free",
you will still have property taxes to pay. That
means
that
you will need at least a modest recession/depression proof revenue stream in
the event that you lose your primary job. Let me underscore this point with
a bit of Rawles family history: My family came
out west by
covered wagon in the 1850s. They soon after set up a sheep ranch that eventually
had more than 6,000 deeded acres where they ran more than 3,000 Merino
sheep. Sadly, more than 5,000 acres of the original Rawles Ranch was forfeited,
mainly because of
unpaid property taxes in the Great Depression of the 1930s. There
was just no
market for
either wool or timber--which constituted the only cash income for the ranch.
The family
was easily able to feed itself, but despite their best efforts, chunk after
chunk of the ranch was taken over by the county and the bankers for unpaid
taxes and unpaid agricultural loans, between 1932 and
1942. By the time that the economy started to recover during World War II,
the ranch was down to only about 800 acres.
Successful home-based businesses usually center around: unfilled needs. In
a rural area, that is easy. Just ask your neighbors: Is there anything that
you buy or rent, or service that you "hire" on a regular basis that
currently requires a 40+ mile drive "to town"? Those are your potential niches.
A successful recession-proof home-based business is
likely to be one where the demand for
your goods and services is consistent--even in a weak economy.
These include septic tank pumping, home security/locksmithing, care fore
the very young and the very old, and escapist diversions such as DVD movie
rentals. (It is noteworthy that the movie industry
was was one of the few sectors of the economy that prospered in the 1930s.)
Another category of business that prospered in the 1930s was repair businesses.
Obviously, in hard economic times, people try to make do with what they have.
So repair businesses are a natural. If there is some small appliance that you
could repair that could be mailed from and back to the customer, so much the
better. (That way you could have a nationwide business, rather than just a
local one.) This might include: DVD player repair, laptop computer repair,
and
so forth.
Another category is second-hand stores. People on tight budgets will be
actively looking for second-hand goods, rather than buy new items. A second-hand
book store in a medium-sized town might do just fine in a depression.
Yet another approach, for those with mechanical aptitude and don't mind strenuous
outdoor work: Own one or more useful pieces of fairly expensive machinery that
a lot
of people need
to rent
(or
hire the
services
of ) on a
fairly
regular basis, but that are expensive enough that they cannot
justify buying one for themselves.
Typically,
this is
a piece of machinery that
sells
for $2,000 to $20,000 that you can "hire out" in a relatively
unregulated business. (Not requiring any special licenses, guild membership,
or a union
card.) Examples include "Ditch
Witch" trenching machines, vehicle-mounted posthole
augers,
vehicle-mounted
well drilling
rigs,
portable
sawmills, "cherry picker:" bucket hoists, Bobcat tractors, small
tracked excavators, and so forth. Once you've identified a clear unfilled
need,
and after you've confirmed that nobody else in your local area already has
one that they presently
rent out, then
start
looking to buy one. Ideally, you'll want one that is a few years old (since
brand
new machinery is usually too expensive) in nice reliable running condition,
at a reasonable price. As necessary, get a trailer to transport it. Practice
with
it at your
own property, so that you'll be competent and confident that you can do a
good
job. Practice loading, hauling and unloading your machinery (if needed)
a few times, so that you won't look like an idiot when doing so. Be
sure to get liability insurance
started before you officially launch your business. Then it is simple
enough to advertise your
services on the Internet, through your local chamber of commerce, and post
flyers at the local feed store and supermarket. You can "scale" the
size of your second business (read: how busy you'll be) by setting your
prices. If you want a lot of "hours", then price it low. If you
are getting too much work, then just start raising your rates to slow your
business down.
Then, if
and when you ever lose you primary income stream, you can drop your rates
on
your
second
business
substantially,
so that it can take up the slack for your lost income. If necessary, add
a second or third piece of equipment that you can rent out, to diversify
your business. (For example, your business card might read; "Exemplary
Excavations:
Bobcat, Mini-Excavator, Ditch Witch, and Portable Posthole Auger. Reasonable
Rates!")
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SurvivalBlog Reader Poll Responses: What is Your Profession?
- Actor
- Machinist / Gunsmith / Aerospace engineer
- Petroleum engineer / Alternative energy designer
- Police sergeant / Small Arms and Tactics Instructor
- Academic anesthesiologist / Engineer
- Air Force Contractor
- Airport manager
- Alternative Energy R&D / Intelligence analyst
- Army Officer (PSYOP)
- Army Officer Instructor / Firearms Instructor
- Physician assistant
- Associate Dean
- Attorney, Personal injury
- Audio engineer / Compact disc mastering
- Auto mechanic
- Beekeeper
- Business & PoliSci student
- Business consultant
- Elderly caretaker
- Cell phone technician
- 2 CEOs
- CFO
- CIO
- COO
- Building contractor / Mine / Butcher / Lumberjack
- Chairman / Economist
- Chef
- Chief systems engineer
- Chimney sweep (retired)
- Christian CPA / Reserve deputy / Sunday school teacher
- Civil Engineer / Gunsmith
- Civil and structural engineer
- PR practitioner / Writer-editor
- Clinical engineer
- Clinical nurse / college professor / herbalist
- College student
- Commercial construction manager / Residential builder
- Computer hardware engineer
- Computer systems technologist / Police officer / Machinist / Cabinetmaker
/ MP Investigator / Yardman / Truck Driver / Roofer / EMT
- Corporate jet pilot
- First aid instructor / Sound engineer
- Criminal defense lawyer / Special ops reserve officer
- Critical infrastructure protection specialist
- Currency trader
- Database administrator
- Dental technician
- Dentist / anthropologist
- Deputy Sheriff-Detective / Gunsmith
- Design engineer / electric car manufacturer
- Desk-clerk / assistant-bookkeeper / college student
- Diesel mechanic / fleet manager
- Educational book designer
- 8 Electrical/electronic engineers
- Musician
- Sign contractor / Military history author.
- 3 Electricians
- Emergency Physician / Communications
- 4 EMTs
- Engineer
- Environmental, Safety, and Health Manager
- Ex-British Special Forces / consultant
- Family law / estate planning attorney
- 4 Farmers (including 1 organic, 1 mushroom), many secondary farmers
- Federal agent / investigator
- 5 Firefighters
- Fire captain / EMT / Fire service instructor
- Fire Marshal
- Fish Farmer
- Forensic anthropologist.
- Insurance customer service rep (retired)
- Marine Corps sergeant (retired) / CFO
- Forward observer / NCO.
- Furniture maker
- Gemologist / Jewelry appraiser
- Government bureaucrat
- Graduate student
- Green housing / Construction manager
- Hacker
- Hedge fund manager
- Horse farm owner
- Hospital pharmacist
- Hunting Guide (Alaska)
- HVACR business
owner
- ICU RN /
Die maker / Mechanic
- Insurance agent.
- Investment manager
- 5 Intelligence Analysts
- IT consultant
- IT Telecommuter
- Pastor
- Jack of all trades
- Power plant operator
- Laboratory technician
- Landscape architect
- Law enforcement
- Lean manufacturing / Automotive.
- LEO / Tactical instructor
- Liquor salesman
- Logistics manager
- Lutheran pastor
- Machinist
- Maintenance engineer
- Maintenance supervisor forest service / National guard utility man
- Sign language interpreting agency manager
- Manager / Manufacturer / Firearms teacher / Machinist / Intelligence analyst
- Manager of Contracts and Pricing
- Manufacturing jeweler / watchmaker
- Massage therapist
- Master plumber
- Master plumber / Carpenter / AC tech / Electrician / Mechanic
- 5 MDs (Emergency Medicine, Anesthesia, ER, and GP)
- Mechanic
- Airline mechanic / ER Nurse
- Mechanic / Rocket engine builder / Heat treater / Tax Accountant
- Mechanical engineer
- Medical transport / Deputy sheriff / Fireman
- Microbiology student
- Motion designer / Cinematographer
- Museum director
- 2 Navy SEALs
- Notary public
- 3 Novelists
- NRA field rep
- Nuclear work and safety planning
- Nuclear security officer
- Psychiatric and Primary Nurse
- Commercial truck sales operation owner
- Painting contractor
- Paper engineer / graphic designer
- Petroleum geologist
- Petroleum landman / farm owner
- 5 Pharmacists
- Pharmacist / Intelligence Analyst / Health and Safety Specialist
- Pharmacy Recruiter
- 3 Physicists
- 4 Pilots (including 1 Canadian military)
- Pipefitter / Welder
- 4 Police officers
- College student
- Private investigator
- Private mailbox / Packing & shipping store / Musician
- Production control analyst
- Professor of ancient Near Eastern archaeology
- Property manager / Business continuity planner
- Property tax consultant.
- Prototype automobile modeler
- Internet Purchasing Specialist
- Psychotherapist
- Radiologic technologist
- Real estate appraiser
- 5 Realtors
- Region loss prevention manager
- Registered investment adviser owner / CPA
- 3 Registered nurses
- Respiratory therapist
- Retail manager / Salesperson
- Retail operations / Small business consultant
- Retail store manager, retired
- Retired electrical contractor
- Retired policeman / Park ranger
- Safety manager for construction company / landlord
- 2 Sales representatives/agents
- Sales agent
- Security dispatcher
- Security officer / Writer / Actor / Designer
- Security representative
- Electronics technician.
- Network security engineer
- Small business owner / barber
- Machine operator
- 2 Software developers
- Software engineer
- Special Forces Vietnam Vet / Firefighter(Retired) / Rancher
- 2 Submariners
- Systems engineer
- 2 Teachers
- Telecommunications design engineer
- Television producer / writer
- Power company lineman
- Truck mechanic
- 4 Truckers
- U.S. Treasury bond broker
- USDOE Security
Police Officer
- Veterinarian / Dog Breeder / Farmer
- Veterinarian / Attorney
- Vice President of Finance
- Wastewater treatment plant manager / Computer consultant
- Welder
- Welder / Chef / Blacksmith / Martial arts instructor / Gunsmith
- Welder, Underwater
- Writer / Secretary
« Letter Re: Masonry Stoves / Brick Ovens |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
SurvivalBlog Reader Poll: What is Your Profession?
I'm amazed at the wide variety of people that read SurvivalBlog. I"m
starting a new poll: in seven words or less, tell us you profession,
(via e-mail) and I will post an anonymous
list. For any of you that are doctors, lawyers, or engineers, and so forth
please state your specialty. If you have two (or more) vocations,
please state the both with a slash in between. (Such as "neurosurgeon / musician.")
As standard policy, unless specifically given permission I remove people's
names, titles, e-mail addresses, company names, and other identifiers from
letters
before
I post them. Without mentioning any names,
let me briefly summarize some the more notable readers that I already know
about: NASA scientists, Lawrence National Laboratories physicists, pharmacists,
doctors in various specialties, Hollywood actors, foundry workers, novelists,
a rock-'n- roll musician, dojo masters, current and former military intelligence officers,
NSA intelligence
analysts, stock analysts, derivatives traders, aircraft mechanics, an astronaut,
beekeepers, military and civilian pilots (lots!), submariners, an underwater
welder, veterinarians--including
one that is also an attorney, a prototype automobile modeler in Detroit, real
estate agents, truckers, organic farmers, a mushroom farmer, two fish farmers,
research chemists, an underwater photographer, U.S. Army Special Forces officers
and NCOs, Navy SEALs, petroleum engineers, umpteen electrical and computer
engineers,
and dozens of police officers, paramedics, and firemen. I'll be interested
to see what a more complete list looks like!
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: A Get Out of Dodge Physical Fitness Test »
Letter Re: Chemistry Knowledge is One of the Keys to Survival
JWR:
I've been thinking about a recent Internet writer who argued that we aren't
headed toward the 1890s [technology/infrastructure] (we should be so lucky);
we're headed toward 10,000 BC! (Due to oil depletion and resultant social chaos
and
die-off).
Regardless of "where we land," it seems that among all the technologies
at the disposal of humans, sustainable and not, chemistry is ubiquitous.
Everything, or most everything we do or use involves use of chemical technology.
The survival
issues involving chemistry are obvious: soap, diesel fuel, disinfectants, water
purification/decontamination, powder for ammo, etc, beer and wine, to name
just a few.
The average guy probably doesn't need to know stoichiometric equations to
derive amounts of chemicals for reactions (although that is essential if you
don't
have a "cookbook" telling you 1 unit of this and 2 units of that...),
but it is equally obvious that a rudimentary knowledge of chemical reactions
and processes will be essential when the Schumer hits, especially for the longer
term TEOTWAWKI mode.
I found a couple of "survivalist applicable" books that I would highly
recommend: Caveman Chemistry, and Caveman to Chemist, both
sold by Amazon.com. Also, Principles of Modern Chemistry, by Oxtoby,
Gillis, & Campion, is
the best general Chemistry book I've seen.
It would be highly valuable to hear other forum members' recommendations of
sources of chemicals and chemical engineering information. Surely, there's
a
lot out there if you can cut through the academic BS. - WarDoc
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Letter Re: Employment as a Gunsmith, Both Before and After TSHTF
Mr. Rawles,
I am a new reader of your blog. One of my co-workers recently
told me about it and I am hooked. I never knew there was such a large gathering
of like minded people. The reason for this e-mail is to ask about gunsmithing
courses. Being new to your site I may not be looking in the right direction.
If this is a subject that has not been covered can you or any of your readers
recommend an online or correspondence course? Thank you. - Randy G.
JWR Replies: I have not yet covered this topic, so here is
my input on gunsmithing training opportunities in the U.S.: Gunsmithing
is indeed a valuable skill and highly recommended as either a primary or secondary
source
of income.
Assuming
that
you are looking
at gunsmithing
as an "at home" business and you want that business to be recession
proof or even depression proof, I suggest that you develop a non-decorative specialty.
(Not engraving, stock carving, or bolt jeweling,.)
America already has plenty of engravers. To be fully employed both
before and after TSHTF,
you should consider specialties like semi-auto rifle repair/customizing, or
combat handgun repair/customizing.
Full length courses are available from a number of colleges including Lassen
Community College (Susanville, CA), Montgomery
Community College (Troy, NC), Murray
State College (Tishomingo, OK), Trinidad
State Junior College (Trinidad,
CO), and Yavapi College (Prescott,
AZ).
Some very useful instructional videos/DVDs are available from AGI.
Correspondence courses are available from Modern
Gun School. But I have heard that they
are no substitute for hands-on instruction. The
NRA offers some excellent short term hands-on courses. Also take advantage
of the relatively low cost armorer's courses offered by gun makers like Springfield
Armory, Colt, SIG and Glock.(For
some of these you have to be a FFL dealer
and already stocking their brand, or be associated with a police department
that has that brand of gun as their issue weapon. One way to do that is
to become a reserve police officer, and get involved as a police department
armorer.)
You might
also
ask about
apprenticing
with a local gunsmith. Or if you are
quite
serious about gunsmithing as a life-long career,
be willing
to relocate
to apprentice under a master gunsmith in the specialty of your choice.
The best ones will want to train only someone that has a few years of
basic gunsmithing experience, proven aptitude, and a real burning desire to
excel at gunsmithing.
I don't generally recommend military training as an armorer. The U.S. Army
formerly had a separate "armorer" specialty, but that is now part of the 92Y
(Unit Supply Specialist)
military occupational specialty (MOS). Sadly, there is not much a gunsmithing
"craft": taught to 92Ys anymore--no offense, but in essence they've been reduced
to just parts orderers and parts
changers.
For anyone that is already in the Army (active duty, reserve, or National Guard)
there
is
a
CD training set
available from Tobyhanna Army Depot for the small arms
portions of the 92Y advanced individual training (AIT) course. The
applicable CDs are: CD 101-75
through 101-84. It might be useful to pick up 92Y as a secondary MOS.
As a starting point, I recommend that you start assembling your own gunsmithing
library. For example, get every gun assembly/disassembly manual (such as the J.B.
Wood's multi-volume
series) that you can lay your hands on. Used copies are often
available at low prices through eBay or
Amazon.com. I also recommend
that you get a set of Jerry
Kuhnhausen's "Shop Manual" gunsmithing books.
They are excellent.
You
will of course also need to start assembling a set of gunsmithing tools.
One of the best
sources for tools is Brownell's.
The rudimentary basics to start gunsmithing would be: a full set of good
quality hollow
ground screwdrivers (I especially like the Chapman's
brand sets),
a set of pin punches, a brass/plastic head hammer, wire cutters, a set of
Swiss pattern
files, a set of larger files of various profiles, a
set of stones, some cold bluing solution, a roll pin assortment, and some
coil spring stock.
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Letter Re: Advice on Where to Learn Practical, Tactical Skills
Dear Jim:
As my confidence in the dollar depreciates and my desire for skills
increases, I'm wanting to convert FRNs
into hands-on knowledge. What weeknight or weekend workshops would
you recommend? Are there any places
where you can learn Army Ranger skills without joining the military?
Animal husbandry, and so on? - Spencer
JWR Replies: There is a tremendous wealth of free
or low-cost classes available--enough to keep you busy every weekend
of
the year
if you are willing to drive a distance. If you have time and
just a bit of money, you can get some very well-rounded training in
skills that
are quite applicable to post-TEOTWAWKI living. In
my experience, the most cost-effective training opportunities in the
U.S.
include:
American
Red Cross First Aid and CPR classes
Local Community College, Park District, and Adult Education classes.
They offer classes on metal shop, auto shop, wood shop, leather crafting,
ceramics, baking, gardening, welding, and so forth.
RWVA Appleseed Shoots.
These are held all over the nation. They offer great training for
very
little money. The West
Side Sportsman's Club,
located on the west side of Evansville, Indiana is hosting the national
RWVA shoot on June 30 / July 1st. The
Red Brush Gun Range, located on the east side
of Evansville is having another Appleseed, and they're also having
an Appleseed Boot Camp. The boot camp starts on Monday
October 22 thru
Friday
Oct. 26th. Then
the Appleseed Shoot is on Saturday Oct. 27 and Sunday Oct. 28. The deal is
if you want to attend both the Boot Camp and the Appleseed match, you
do so for $200. Yes, for just $200 you can have seven
days of
top
notch
marksmanship training.
U.S. Army ROTC classes,
the ROTC Ranger program (administered by individual university ROTC
Departments), and ROTC
Leader's Training Course, aka Basic Camp). The first two years
of the ROTC program--including Leader's Training Course--are available
to any full-time enrolled
undergraduate college student
(including "cross-enrolled" junior college students) with
no contractual obligation. Participation in the ROTC Ranger
program by anyone other than enrolled ROTC cadets is usually up to
the discretion of the instructor or the PMS.
When I was in a ROTC Ranger program back in the early 1980s, we had
two Marine Corps PLC students
and an Administration of Justice (police science)
major in our Ranger program, as supernumeraries. So even if you don't
sign up for ROTC classes, you might be able to be involved in a Ranger
program.
Of particular note: If you sign up for the four week ROTC Leader's
Training Course at Fort
Knox,
Kentucky,
you will actually get paid to
attend, plus get a couple of free pairs of combat boots. To be eligible
to participate in ROTC, you must be under 31 years of age
on Dec 31 st of the year that you expect to graduate. (Or possibly
34 years old, with waivers.) The best chance to get a slot at the ROTC
Leader's Training Course is during your sophomore year of college,
but when I was there I met a graduate student that had wangled a slot.
(He eventually got a direct
commission, by virtue of his ROTC "contact hours")
LDS (Mormon)
cannery classes/canning sessions. Many "wards" have
their own canneries, which are generally open to non-Mormons. (OBTW,
the LDS food
storage calculator web page is a very
useful planning tool.)
FEMA /
CERT
Classes (Classroom and Internet courses, some with team commitment)
ARRL amateur radio classes.
Species-Specific or Breed-Specific Livestock and Pet Clubs
NRA and State Rifle and
Pistol Association training and shooting events
Fiber
Guilds (spinning and weaving) and local knitting clubs
Mountain Man/Rendezvous Clubs (Blackpowder
shooting, flint knapping, soap making, rope making, etc.)
University/County
Agricultural Extension and Cattleman's Club classes
on livestock, gardening, weed control, canning, et cetera
Medical
Corps small
group classes. I heard that they have scheduled just one hands-on
Combat/Field Medicine Course thusfar for 2007. It
will be at the OSU Extension Campus, in
Belle Valley Ohio, April 20-21-22. That class is full, but
check their web site for additional course dates. They offer
great
training--including advanced life saving topics that the
American
Red
Cross doesn't teach--at
very reasonable
cost.
Volunteer
Fire department (VFD) classes
(usually with some commitment)
Candle and Soap Making Clubs/Conventions
Boy Scouts and 4H.
Informal, un-enrolled ("strap hanger") training is available
for adults--just take your kids to the meetings and don't leave.
I would also consider these less important (but still worthwhile)
training opportunities, as time permits:
Sheriff's posse and Search and Rescue (SAR) programs
Police department "Ride Along" and Police Reserve programs
Civil Air Patrol (CAP) courses.
Civic/Ethnic Club cooking classes
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Letter Re: Restoring Older Shortwave Receivers
James:
A note on the Zenith
Trans-Oceanic [tube-type general coverage receiver]s:
I've been collecting these and refurbishing them on bad weather days. I replace
all the
paper and electrolytic
capacitors,
check
the tubes, clean them up, and tune up the coil tower with an old tube RF signal
generator. The paper capacitors are very prone to failure. Then I construct
a replacement battery pack using ten 9 V batteries and 5 "D" cells.
I plan to make a 12 VDC charger
for these that I can run off my PV panels.
So far I've
done nine of these. I am putting them along with instruction manual, schematics,
battery pack into Space Bags with a desiccant pack and storing them. I figure
these will be more valuable with time. Now: the special high frequency pentagrid
converter tube for these, the 1L6, is getting really scarce.
I'm buying all I can on eBay if
the price is right. There is a US Army manual of Korean War
vintage with complete instructions on repair. There is an interesting variant
of these, sold for only one year, the "Meridian" that is a general
coverage shortwave receiver with the same tube set. These are rare as hen's
teeth. I'm refurbing my second right now. Next one I see on eBay, I'm getting
it. Regards,
- Doc Holladay
« Letter Re: More Book Recommendations |Main| Letter Re: Crystal Radio Sets for TEOTWAWKI »
Letter Re: The "Third Way" Approach--A Forward Base En Route to a Remote Survival Retreat
JWR,
I have been reading a longtime reader of your blog since it started, and wish
to thank you for writing your novel "Patriots", which
I have read cover to cover many times and has helped me on my way to becoming
a prepper.
In response to Paul's letter for a forward location between your retreat and
current home I have some ideas as well as some other good info I feel your
readers could benefit from.
Now the plan of having a forward location by Paul is a somewhat good idea but
like you pointed out a bit flawed.My idea may not bode well for everyone, I
really think a bachelor or a family that is really into being prepared will
only live this way: What you do is if you must work close to or in a city because
of your job, family or other obligations I suggest you either buy a small condo/apartment
or rent one. Depending on how close you are to the city/town you may find the
prices can be cheap (further away) or quite expensive (closer). Not all of
us can have the luxury of living at our retreat full time or having some kind
of caretaker thee watching it for us.
So what you should do is simply have two locations. One location near your
job, nothing fancy but a small condo/apartment like I described above should
fit
the bill. All you would really need are some minor supplies and your everyday
use items at this location. No need to really stock it to the gills, at least
have some items there in case travel is restricted, you cant leave for whatever
reason, or worst case scenario you get to your retreat and its stripped. The
other location of course your fully stocked retreat, in which I would go to
great lengths to meet any friendly neighbors and give them your contact info
(a disposable or regular cell phone) just in case something happens while your
away.
The whole idea is to simply treat the city home like a in between location.
Like I said this wont bode well for many people who are used to amenities,
and it certainly may not work for those with non like minded people living
in their immediate family. But for a single person or a family who is on board
I think it could work. Perhaps in between the city location and the retreat
you could have a friend and store supplies their or rent a storage unit for
a year or more in advance. I know there are many storage rental places around
these days as they are quite popular and you can not only rent a simple garage
setup but heated units for sensitive items, closed sized units and units of
all shapes and sizes. This means not only can you be sure that in the event
you cant make it your retreat or you make it there and have no supplies that
you have back up supplies and stuff.
You could even have a travel trailer located at either your city home or the
rented storage unit so there is no real loading-just hitch it up and go. A
word on proper transportation: many people do not have an SUV or at least a
truck to haul this stuff with, I highly recommend you pick up in the very least
an older pickup of some kind. I would recommend personally if you don't need
a lot of space or have a smaller trailer an older Toyota with either the 4cyl
22R(E) engines, the newer 4cyl engines or a 3.4L V6 model. Run away from the
3.0L V6 they once offered, nothing but headaches with head gaskets and thrown
rods and such.
Sure they may not haul as much and certainly don't fit the bill of an older
super easy to maintain truck, but they are very reliable, easy to maintain
once you know what your doing, and generally don't break down unless it was
a poorly cared for vehicle. Having owned a Toyota camry and currently own a
T100 truck (its like a tundra only with a V6 produced only from 1993-1998)
I can say the car was very reliable compared to the american made vehicles
of the time (1993) and the truck has outlasted almost everything else I have
seen people have and have driven personally myself. Can you really argue 190k
miles on a 1996 with very minor maintenance? Same transmission and the engine
was only recently replaced because of a head gasket recall that never affected
me anyway. It did have 135k though, still ran like a top. Only downside is
these vehicles generally can only tow a maximum of 5,000 lbs and no more while
a full size can do 7-9000 pretty easily. This is alleviated if you buy a newer
Tundra with a V8.
Now, if you want a full size truck I would highly recommend people to look
into an older Ford or Chevy HD model. Nothing truly fancy but a decent V8,
a full size
or extended cab. The reason to get the HD package as it usually has a 3/4 ton
suspension and much heavier duty running gear which is essential if you load
it down to the gills or plan on hauling a very large trailer. I never really
had problems with my old F250 circa 1991, but it never ran or held up as well
the toyotas did. I wont argue that people should really buy Domestic vs Foreign,
but I would suggest a person look at their needs and wants and then decide.
No reason to buy a full size truck if its just you and you're only towing a
small 8 foot trailer, or nothing at all.
I would suggest that people only look for a four wheel drive vehicle. There
is no reason not to own one as it will save you (along with a good set of all
terrain tires) from many sticky situations, I know it has with me and I cursed
driving a 2WD truck many moons ago in the winter. Again, if you can find a
good deal buy it-no reason not to. One last thing, get a cap for the bed, it
will easily allow you to store things hidden out of view in the bed, which
is a very good idea if you don't get a trailer.
The bottom line I think is not to keep all your eggs in one basket as the old
saying goes. You just never know what the future may hold and how things may
go. We could easily be totally devastated in a matter of a week or less, or
slip slowly into the situation depending on the event. There is no telling
how, when, and where it will happen only that it most likely eventually will
happen and best you be prepared at least a little. Preparing for best and expecting
the worst is the way it should be, think ahead for what may happen, you just
never know..
I hope my words have given some insight to your readers and perhaps steered
them in the right direction. - Marc in NJ
JWR Replies: I discuss various retreat and G.O.O.D. options
at length in my book Rawles
on Retreats and Relocation. There was also extensive discussion
of the Golden
Horde effect and related issues such as retreat locale selection
criteria in the first few months of Survivalblog posts. (BTW, these
posts are now available
in the
hard
copy
book SurvivalBlog:
The Best of the Blog, Volume 1.) Staying on in the Dirty
Big City in the midst of a slow slide is a risky proposition. If
you have the chance to bug out, then take it! I tried to illustrate
the perils of
staying a day too late in my novel "Patriots".
(Namely, the experience of the characters Ken and Terry Layton, who
end up taking a 1,000 mile hike to their group retreat.) Even if it
means
quitting your
job rather than just burning up accrued vacation hours,
then so
be it. If you made proper plans, and if the economy staggers along
(a la the Great Depression of the1930s) then you will
be able
to ramp up a depression-proof second income at your retreat--at least
enough to put food on the table and pay your property taxes. (For some
ideas, see the results
of the recent SurvivalBlog reader poll on the best home-based businesses.)
Of course
your decision
to bail out may in retrospect
be seen as premature. That is certainly a substantial risk. But in
my estimation it is better
to be a year too early than a day too late. Being that one
day too late could at the least leave you stranded away from your
family, or perhaps even result in you reaching room temperature, and
leaving your family left to fend for themselves.
« Letter Re: Leatherworking as a Post-TEOTWAWKI Occupation |Main| Letter Re: The Pending Federal "Assault Weapons" Ban (H.R. 1022) »
Letter Re: Stocking up on Horse Tack
Jim,
If there were an EMP event, what would be the primary mode of transportation:
shank's mare; the bicycle; horses? Likely all three would rate pretty
high on the list of most likely. Accordingly, are most prepared? I
would anticipate most have the necessary footwear. A bicycle would
be viable for personal and logistics transport...if one has an appropriate
unit and the maintenance supplies...in fact, this would be a practical
way to move young children from one location to another as they already
have their bikes.
But what about the eventual and likely need for horse transportation?
While it may be and is very impracticable for urbanites to keep horses
for post-EMP days, it is very practical for urbanites (and others)
to keep and maintain a complete component of necessary equestrian tack:
a saddle that fits; quality bridle and reins; halters; saddle blankets;
feed sacks; leads; gun scabbards; saddlebags; etc. See, being lucky
enough to 'acquire' a horse would be quite possible; however, 'acquiring'
the tack/gear to outfit a mount is another story altogether. Better
prepared than wondering one day why you weren't. Anyway, just a notion.
Keep up the great work from your undisclosed venue. - Matt, Somewhere
South of Kentucky & North of Alabama
JWR Replies: You are right that horses will be
very important, post-Crunch. So buying horse tack is a great idea,
Matt! You can also consider those
purchases part of your "just
in case"
Peak
Oil
insurance
and just one more "tangible" investment. Just be sure to
keep that leather
well
oiled, inspected often, and away from moisture and vermin. (Mice
and rats do love to chew, and chew, and chew.) OBTW, one alternative
is
purchasing
the biothane
nylon tack that
is
now
favored
by
some "endurance"
riders. Regardless of what tack you select, think ahead in terms
of
maintaining your tack. Buy extra hardware, rolls of different
widths of nylon webbing (in olive green and brown, of course) sheet
leather, leather working
tools, a sewing awl, spools of heavy nylon thread, Barge Cement,
Shoo Goo, et cetera. Those are all available
from
Tandy Leather
Company. I have found that slightly used tools can often be found
at garage sales, flea markets, and via eBay,
from people that flirted with the hobby,
but
gave it up when they discovered that it was too much like work.
BTW, those tools and supplies could form the basis for a second "post-Crunch"
source
of
income
or barter.
Also BTW, I predict
that post-TEOTWAWKI there
will suddenly be lots people that want to carry handguns daily, but
that will be short on holsters. (Just ask
the average American gun collector if he has a practical holster
for each of
his handguns.)
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Stocking up on Horse Tack »
Letter Re: Leatherworking as a Post-TEOTWAWKI Occupation
Dear Jim,
Basic leatherworking [suggested in the recent poll on potential TEOTWAWKI home
businesses] is fairly easy, if time consuming. Shears, a punch and strong
thread are all that's needed. Fine work or more elaborate items than pouches,
belts, hats and such take practice, but the leather can frequently be salvaged
from mistakes and reused.
I think the most important aspect of the skill for a TEOTWAWKI environment
would be skinning, curing and tanning. Brain, urine, vegetable and oak tanning
are time consuming (Everything about leather is), but books exist and functional
(as opposed to pretty) leather isn't too hard to produce. It's worth practicing
once or twice now.
Also don't forget that dried rawhide, or leather boiled for a few seconds.
(Oil isn't necessary. Water is preferred) is hard enough to armor against
cutting edges and some blunt impacts. -
Michael
Z. Williamson
JWR Adds: Most SurvivalBlog readers will recognize the name Michael
Z. Williamson (since he frequently sends us e-mails), and many of you
have probably read some of his books. (He is a well-known science fiction
and military
fiction writer.) But you may not have heard that he is also a part-time sword
and knife maker.
He is a co-owner of a custom edged weapon biz called, appropriately enough Sharp
Pointy Things. He has also considerable experience doing historical reenacting.
So when Mike mentions the utility of boiled leather for armor, he speaks
from first hand experience! And for any of you thinking about about buying
any sharp pointy things to prepare for that dreaded multi-generational TEOTWAWKI
("MGTEOTWAWKI") scenario, then Mike is the man to see.
« Four Letters Re: One Common Caliber for Retreat Rifles and Handguns? |Main| Note from JWR: »
Poll Results: Best Occupations for Both Before and After TEOTWAWKI
In no particular order, the following are the first batch of responses
to my poll question on the best occupations or home businesses for
both before and after TEOTWAWKI:
Locksmith/Home security systems installer/repairman
--
Beekeeping
Small scale vegetable gardening.
Growing
herbs (medicinal)
--
1) Electricity:
a. Recharge batteries for folks, rebuild the bad batteries, and lots
of folks don’t know squat about electricity for lighting, etc.
Got several methods: Solar, miscellaneous generators powered by hand,
animal, wind and even the old one lung gas engine with that darn heavy
flywheel.
b. Also use the above for communications when there aren’t cell
phones or twisted pair communications. HF, VHF, UHF and Wi-Fi.
c. Also for Wi-Fi between homes and towns if computers survive.
2) Maintain RVs and trailers with their associated systems:
furnaces, lighting, water, pumps, et al.
3) Make more Stills like the one I have and produce nerve tonic and
fuel.
4) Medical: Apply those smelly herbs I find, grow and use. Not to mention
sewing up the occasional cut and tear, set the odd bone and generally
try to avoid surgery (Ha!) Let’s not even talk about handling
boils, although that will be around too.
5) Sorta medical: Collect, cure the Knick-Knick and sell tobacco.
6) Use my HF radios to send mail to and from families far away.
7) Make leather cups for pumps when there isn’t any molded rubber
around.
--
Growing and maintaining quality heritage based [heirloom /non-hybrid]
produce for a local farmers market but also a "seed saver" program
to provide quality heritage seeds for sale or barter for future gardens.
--
Almost anything in the medical field: EMT,
Nurse, doctor
Stay at home parent
Teacher/tutor
Translator - post TEOTWAWKI, there won't be handy computer programs
to help out, and there are a lot of non-English speakers in any suburb,
let alone anything larger
Tailoring/Alterations
Chef/cook
--
1. Mechanic / bodywork man. People tend to hold onto cars and equipment
much longer during hard times, and fix up their existing vehicles instead
of buying new.
2. Handyman - Same basic idea as above. Also lots of work installing
insulation, wood stoves, energy-efficient appliances, security improvements
and of course repairing damage from natural disasters.
3. Musician - The guy who can play the guitar always seems to do okay
anywhere where people suffer. Whether it's in a prison, a starving
country torn up by civil war, or just a campfire with a bunch of tired
cowboys,
people want to be able to relax and forget about the real world for
a while.
--
Clothes and shoe manufacturing/repair
--
Dentistry/Oral Surgery
--
Make/sell small DC generators,
and use them for charging batteries for cash/barter), as
shown at The Epicenter.com
--
Health care (physician, nursing) is always good.
--
Farmer or Rancher (self-sufficient and rural)
Mechanic (keeping stuff running)
Any sort of health care provider - Doctor/Nurse/Paramedic/EMT (*the
only down-side is you may get wrapped up treating endless victims though)
Veterinarian
--
Farrier/blacksmith
--
Leatherwork. "It is a booming business for skilled leather workers
right now; people will pay ridiculously high prices for custom
made goods.
Being able to build and mend saddles, shoes, bags, belts, and all
manner of useful items is not only a handy skill to have, but there's
decent
money in it. Right now, it's more of a luxury to most people to have
leather goods custom made for them, since there are many other options
on the market for our everyday needs. But once the supply of cheap
garbage from China is cut off, and our technology is thrown back
a couple hundred years, leather will return to its place as an
essential
material. And knowing how to work with leather will be a prized skill.
As well as having the proper tools to do it."
--
Chicken raising/breeding
Bee-keeping
--
Mechanic - "An automobile or aircraft mechanic (and perhaps some
other similar crafts) has developed the skills to repair a number
of existing
devices in addition to the devices they were specifically trained
on, i.e. generator/appliance repair or gunsmithing."
--
Electrician
Blacksmith
Mechanic
--
Farm equipment repairman
Armorer
Welder
--
1. Survival skills trainer/practitioner (firearms instructor, gunsmith,
hunter/trapper, adventure guide, blacksmith, carpenter (if with manual
tools), plumber, cooper, potter, candle maker, stonemason/bricklayer,
etc.). Skills that you can use or have value in trade, and that do
not depend upon electricity are definitely the most valuable of all
occupations. Having an array of these skills is the very best.
2. Physician (especially general practice, surgeon, or OB-GYN)
3. Farmer/rancher
4. EMT, RN,
midwife
5. Survival supplies dealer
6. Engineer (mechanical, electrical, civil, metallurgical/materials)
- if practically oriented and skilled outside of the computer, and not management.
7. Electrician (power generation & distribution, communication
8. Army, Marine, or SpecOps military officer below rank of General
(for both hard skills and leadership)
9. Engine repair / mechanic / machinist
10. Teacher
11. Lawyer (just kidding!)
--
Nurseryman with perennial food plants- berries, fruits, herbs,
rhubarb, horseradish, Jerusalem artichokes, etc.
--
Solar power technology business
« Letter Re: Another Use for Diatomaceous Earth: Curing Bowel Infestations |Main| Note from JWR: »
Advantages of Owning a Small Sawmill for Homestead and Retreat Building, by Tennessee Hillbilly
There are many ways to be prepared for whatever the future may hold
and no feasible way to be prepared for every scenario. While “Beans,
Bullets and Band-Aids” should be given the top priority, there
are many situations where a small band saw mill fits the bill.
In the current situation, it’s a cheap source of lumber for building
projects. On a homestead/retreat there is always a need for lumber.
Having selected a remote area for security reasons, by default, places
an individual a long way from any supplies, but usually an abundance
of trees are available. There have been many times when I needed just
a few boards to complete a project. It’s simple to place a log
on the mill and saw the boards to the dimension needed. It saves a
40 mile round trip to the lumber yard. It’s free and best of
all the tax man hasn’t yet figured a way to tax it! The mills
are relatively simple and inexpensive to operate. Even my wife enjoys
running the saw. Of course, it becomes my job to load and turn the
logs and pull and stack the lumber and slabs when she operates the
mill. Once people find out you have a mill, it seems like they all
have three or four logs just lying around that they are glad to give
you if you will just haul them off. Just keeping my eyes open around
these 200 acres provides all the logs I need from diseased or storm
damaged trees. These are trees that would otherwise decay in the woods.
Everywhere I go, I see trees that need to be salvaged that would make
good lumber. One day I will run completely off the road while looking
at a load of logs on a passing truck. At our house, this is referred
to as “Log Envy”
People will often barter with you to saw their logs. Usually this is
in the form of you, the mill owner and operator, taking a portion of
the lumber from the logs they bring to you. This amount ranges up to
50 percent. Be sure to report the fair value of this lumber on your
income taxes. It seems as though most people appreciate getting anything
free and will gladly leave some of the lumber with you in exchange
for turning their log, that otherwise would most likely have rotted,
into something they can use. In the future this ability to barter could
really save the day.
The mill has saved more than enough to pay its own way and continues
to be used regularly. The cost delivered, was abut $8,000.
I set it up as a stationary mill and built a shed over it. (There is
no bought lumber in that shed!) I recently sawed 6,000 board feet of
pine on less than 10 gallons of gasoline. Certainly at some time in
the future, gasoline could become hard to obtain, but most likely a
few gallons would be available, even though the cost may go up significantly.
Even if fuel cost $20 a gallon, the fuel cost for an 8 foot 2x4 would
only be $0.20. I typically have enough stabilized fuel stored to saw
many tens of thousands of board feet of lumber. Logs could be harvested
and with a little manpower maneuvered to the mill by hand if it had
to be done. A wheeled carriage could be constructed to make this fairly
simple. However, a tractor with pallet forks on the front of the loader
makes the job much easier and uses a surprisingly small amount of fuel.
Certainly a horse or other draft animal would be a worthwhile addition
in a fuel shortage. Another advantage now, but especially during a
fuel shortage, is the ever abundant supply of slabs that make excellent
firewood.
The set up I have has the ability to saw logs up to 24 feet in length
and a diameter larger than I care to handle. There are considerably
more board feet of lumber in a large diameter log, but small logs are
much easier and safer to handle. Many types of log scales are available
to measure to small end of a log and provide some prediction of the
number of board feet of lumber in the log. They typically look like
a complicated yard stick, but anyone can learn to use one in a matter
of minutes. A board foot is a measure of lumber that contains 144 cubic
inches of wood. That would be 12 inches square and one inch thick.
A 1 X 4 three feet long would be one board foot. A typical band mill
will often saw 50 to 75% more than scale while sawing small logs due
to the thin blade as compared to a commercial mill. I have regularly
sawn 500 board feet in a day in addition to the regular chores that
are required to be done around the farm.
The bands (blades) do become dull and sometimes break. Currently
they can be replaced for about $20 or sharpened for about $7. If I’m
careful to clean the dirt off the logs and don’t hit an ingrown
object (nail, fence staple, etc.), up to a thousand board feet can
be sawed
with one blade. I typically keep 30 blades on hand. In a push, they
could be sharpened by hand, but I have no intention of doing this when
I can get it done right for $7. I’m sure that in a crunch I could
find several uses for the blades as they are dulled. Although I haven’t
tried it, I see no reason why a slow but workably bow saw could not
be made from them. It would only cut when being pushed instead of cutting
both directions.
Green (freshly sawn) lumber cannot be used in many projects without
proper drying, most often in a kiln. The lumber will shrink and cause
many problems in furniture and indoor woodwork. There are ways around
this for the woodworkers, but that is beyond the scope of this article.
However there are many applications where a little shrinkage, warping
or bowing doesn’t cause any real problem. Barns, hay sheds, equipment
sheds, an outhouse when the water stops magically filling the white
porcelain bowl, deer blinds for the present time which can do double
duty as listening/observation post when things become less secure,
work shops and many other projects. Many houses were built in rural
areas years ago with green lumber. They usually are not particularly
level or square, but they are still standing and serviceable long after
those who built them are gone.
In a situation where the economy has broken down, there are definite
advantages. Lumber yards, if they still exist, would have very limited
supplies for very exorbitant prices. In any kind of grid failure or
fuel and transportation crunch, the big commercial mills would shut
down. Some lumber could be scavenged from abandoned houses and buildings.
But I doubt people would take kindly to others helping themselves to
their structures even if they were not using them. Most modern construction
makes use of a considerable amount of paneled products such as sheet
rock, oriented strand board and plywood that is very difficult to disassemble
and maintain the integrity of the products. Having a few thousand feet
of "stickered" lumber in the dry could be like money in
your pocket at a very critical time. The investment required to store
this lumber
is very small. With a few select people joining us at the retreat in
a bad situation, we can accommodate them in our house for a time. If
the situation drags on for a long period of time, we have the capacity
to construct semi-permanent or permanent dwellings at different strategic
locations around the farm at very little to no cost.
A sawmill opens many opportunities in an uncertain future. When it’s
all said and done, an opportunity is all we can really expect out of
life.
« Jim's Quote of the Day: |Main| Note from JWR: »
Selecting Barter Goods, by Warhawke
In a post-TEOTWAWKI world
just about everyone realizes that paper money will become useless (unless
you can get enough to use as insulation
for your house) and there has been much discussion of gold, silver
and other items for barter in these pages. I have devoted a
great deal of thought to this subject and I would like to share a few
of my ideas on the subject with you. I’m going to try to be fairly
short on details here in order to keep the length of the article manageable.
Keep in mind that what I am discussing here are trade goods and
not items for personal use. You should always get the best supplies
and
equipment
you can
afford for your own use, but trade items are an investment, and like
all investments you need to minimize your outlay and maximize your
profit. For barter, why buy a Craftsman socket-set when you
can get three Chinese made socket-sets from Harbor Freight for the
same money?
Places
to
obtain trade goods are yard and garage sales, pawnshops, resale shops,
flea markets, discount stores and dollar stores. Of course, don’t
buy complete junk but a mediocre tool is much better than no tool at
all.
GUNS AND AMMO
First, I would tend to keep the trading in weapons and ammo to friends
and neighbors, no sense arming the opposition. That said, a good bolt-action
rifle would be a serious item for trade. A friend of mine is a Mosin-Nagant
nut and he bought a half-dozen “Gunsmith Specials” with
cracked stocks and messed up finishes for about $20 a piece. A few
weeks and around a hundred bucks in parts later (he managed to repair
all but two of the stocks) he had six fully functional rifles which
he has socked away with a 700+ round sealed tin of ammo (each with
a can-opener). Another guy that I know has four Romanian .22 Long Rifle
bolt-actions stored away. At my suggestion they both coated these in
DuraCoat which
is a high-tech spray-on finish that can be applied with an airbrush,
requires no heat curing and can even be applied to wood and plastics.
Used .22 rifles would also be a good trade item, but I prefer to avoid
the ones with tube magazines, if they break [e.g. the magazine tube
is dented] they are pretty well impossible to repair, and good luck
finding a replacement.
The best most of us can do is probably to collect parts and tools to
repair our own firearms and perhaps some of the more common weapons
(Model 1911s, AR-15s, AKs, etc.) as well as cleaning
kits, bore solvent, broken case extractors, and repair items for wooden
stocks (Acraglas is a good one). Magazines, speed loaders and stripper
clips for the more common weapons might be a good choice as well.
I do not believe in stocking ammunition which I don’t use, I
have enough trouble buying and storing the ammunition I do use. Instead
I recommend getting into reloading on a very serious basis and get
the equipment to both cast and swage bullets. Casting is the most common
method for making bullets and will work well. Swaging involves producing
bullets using pressure as opposed to heat and allows you to make jacketed
bullets which allows normal velocities to be obtained, while simple
unjacketed cast bullets must use low-velocities to reduce leading of
the barrel. Search for “Bullet Swaging” and you can find
a host of sites on the subject. It is an expensive method of production,
but with the equipment and large amounts of powder and primers you
can supply the neighbors and yourself with far more ammunition than
you could ever stockpile. A few caveats on this though;
Select your powders to provide the widest possible selection of calibers
and loadings using the least amount of powder for each, you have to
stretch your supplies as far as possible.
Steel casings can be reloaded but they will eat-up your dies.
Berdan primers can be removed and replaced by boxer primers, however
you must ream out the primer pocket as there will be a small post in
the primer pocket which must be removed or the boxer primers will fail
to seat and may fire if you try. Here is a
good site on decapping Berdan primers.[JWR Adds: Rather than drilling out Berdan case primer anvils--which can be tricky--I recommend stocking up on Berdan primers from a supplier such as The Old Western Scrounger.]
BOOKS
Books are portable knowledge and can either be lent out or simply read,
your private library can be a profit making enterprise.
I would start with the general knowledge books, Late 19th and early
20th century encyclopedias, “Connections” by James
Burke and the Foxfire book series are a good place to start.
Then go for the more specific information like veterinary medicine,
animal husbandry,
beekeeping,
gardening, small engine repair, carpentry, medicine (The Physician's
desk Reference (PDR), Gray’s
Anatomy, “Where there is no doctor/dentist, etc.), psychology,
chemistry, glass blowing, metallurgy, and blacksmithing. Frankly just
about anything you can think of can
be valuable to someone, and don’t skip history, philosophy, mathematics,
and spelling textbooks. As a survivalist, you should be planning to
give your children and grandchildren the tools they need to rebuild,
not merely consigning them to the short hard life of pre-industrial
farming and drudgery. Don’t forget the fiction either (fun reading
is often the gateway to a lifetime habit), from the classics by Defoe
and Stevenson to the more contemporary works of Heinlein, Norton, Piper,
Pournelle, and Ing (yes I mean the science fiction writers, it is the
writing of hope for the future and Robert Heinlein, Jerry Pournelle,
and Dean Ing have wonderful books about survival which any survivalist
can appreciate,
even when they are set in futures and planets that never existed).
If you have access to a high-volume printer you should visit Project
Gutenberg it is one of the largest collections of public domain writings
in the world with over 19,000 works on just about every subject imaginable
available for free downloading (P.S. I understand that Xerox copies
will last much longer than most computer printer copies).
Don’t forget pencils (better than pens over the years and cheaper
in bulk), paper, erasers, protractors, rulers, notebooks and other
supplies for education, record keeping, drafting and planning.
TOOLS
Always get the best tools you can afford for yourself, but always remember
that a mediocre tool is better than no tool at all.
Socket sets, pocket multi-tools, wrench sets, drill bits, chisels (wood
and metal working), bit-and-brace, hand drills (manual), files, Allen
wrenches, screwdrivers, driver bits (with manual drivers), cutters
(side-cutters, end-cutters, snips), bunches of clamps, hammers (of
all sizes), pry-bars, shovels, rakes (the heavy gardening type), hoes,
sickles, scythes, handsaws (hacksaws, crosscuts, etc.), axes, and just
about anything else you can think of. Don’t forget specialty
tools either, eye-glass repair kits are cheap, watch making and gunsmithing
tools can often be obtained on eBay and others places and even if
you can’t use them others might and you can trade them for training
or just future work.
Don’t forget things like oil and grease for maintaining and storing
your tools. A few gallons of WD-40, light machine oil or big tubs of
quality grease (I prefer graphite grease) will be incredibly valuable
in a post-petroleum society.
KNIVES
I used to disregard knives as barter items, as I come from a family
where no man was dressed without his pocketknife and just about any
other knife you could wish for was in a drawer somewhere, but alas,
most people today have little more than some plastic-handled Chinese
kitchen knives.
Anza Knives has some of the least expensive and best custom knives you will find
anywhere, I’ve owned and used them for years and I highly recommend them,
both for you and for trade. From 1” skinners to big kitchen knives these
fixed blades will outlast your grandkids. The one issue I have is the high-carbon
blades then to rust at the slightest excuse, coat them with DuraCoat (see, guns
and ammo).
For folding knives (as well as fixed blades for those with good skills) go see
KnifeKits.com, I’ve
gotten several of their folder kits to give out as Christmas presents and everyone
has liked them. All you really need is some Torx
bit drivers to put them together but if you wish [with a buffing wheel] you can
pimp
these
puppies
into
some real nice keepsakes. Knife kits also sells tools and supplies for working
on projects like these.
Don’t forget about making your own blades from scratch either, big lawn
mower blades make great machetes and would no doubt work for plow blades, and
steel blanks of D2, 1095, A2 and other excellent blade steels can be gotten at
reasonable cost today but will be unobtainable in the post-collapse era. Don’t
forget sharpening supplies, I get Laskey-type sharpeners as well as diamond hones
(rod and flat style) from an industrial supply company near my home for less
than normal retail. I would also mention that I recommend using peanut oil (not
vegetable oil which will go rancid) on knives as many mineral oils will contaminate
the blade and make it unsuitable for cutting anything you plan to eat.
Don’t forget razor knives, utility knives, and razor blades.
FIRE STARTING
This has been one of my personal bug-a-boos since I first read Pat Frank’s
classic survivalist book “Alas Babylon”. I have noticed that most
survivalists tend to buy huge amounts of waterproof and strike-anywhere matches
as well as fire-starters like ‘Blast-Match’, which is fine, keep
them for yourself (especially as new strike-anywhere types go dead after six
months). For trading I buy cheap disposable lighters and book matches as well
as wicks and flints for Zippo lighters. In fact I have several cheap plastic
matchboxes (pseudo-military style) filled with 150 flints, 3 wicks and 3 huge
cosmetic cotton-balls (for repacking the lighters) as Zippo support kits. I have
a half-dozen or so Zippos I’ve picked up at yards sales over the years,
which I plan to trade as I have three new-in-box for my use, along with the one
in my pocket. P.S. If you switch from fluid to gasoline (or vice-versa) in a
Zippo, you must repack the cotton filling.
LIGHTING
Don’t buy candles, most candles are made for pretty, not for light and “Survival” candles
are more expensive though generally not much better. Instead, get some pure cotton
string a little thicker than a tea-bag string (which I actually use for my survival
kit candles), bulk paraffin wax and get some plastic cigar tubes (I’ve
also used narrow plastic bottles, but be sure that all the previous contents
are cleaned out). Drill a hole in the tip a little bigger than your wick and
run the wick through and tie it to a pencil or stick and then tie the other end
in a knot (which will mostly seal off your hole). You should spritz the inside
with non-stick cooking spray (or vegetable oil and a spray bottle) to keep the
wax from sticking and then pour in your melted wax. I use a coffee-can 1/3 full
of water and about 1⁄2 full of wax to keep from messing up a cooking pot
and to keep the wax from burning. I use a plastic measuring cup to dip out my
wax. This will work with beeswax as well.
I also have bought a bunch of cheap LED flashlights (the batteries last longer
than standard bulb flashlights), lamp wicks and flashlight bulbs. I looking for
the price to come down on the new magnet powered flashlights too, these would
be useful when the batteries go bye-bye.
EYEGLASSES
Inexpensive UV protective
sunglasses (especially for those blue-eyed, blonde types who tend to get cataracts),
dime-store reading glasses (make sure to write
the Rx number on the case), safety glasses and welding glasses will all be good
items for trade. I myself have gotten several pairs of Gargoyles and Oakleys
at yard sales which I paid to have factory refinished for far less than the retail
price.
CLOTHING
I buy used work uniforms from an industrial surplus house in my area, these are
excellent work clothes and the material is much like military BDUs.
I’ve
bought pants and shirt sets for under $5, and they sell painter’s smocks
(I dyed one brown and made my ghillie
suit with it and a pair of the pants),
jump suits, hats, gloves and winter coats and boots.
I also buy socks and underwear (irregulars can be gotten very cheap), handkerchiefs,
patch material, sewing needles (get a variety of sizes, so-called ‘Doll’ needles
work for leather work), boot and shoe laces, snaps and snap tools, buttons, thread,
straight pins, tailors chalk, and sewing machine needles (older model electric
machines with the manual knobs could be converted to foot treadles). While you
are at it you might find irregular pantyhose and knee-highs, they make excellent
strainers, the reduce chafing when riding on horseback (an equestrian I know
told me that one) and if you are prone to leg swelling they help with that too.
MEDICAL SUPPLIES
Stick to the non-perishables for trade. Bandages, hot water bottles (with attachments)
sterile pads, slings, splints, support bandages, tweezers, hemostats, sutures
and suture needles, clamps, stethoscopes, blood-pressure cuffs, thermometers,
scalpels and blades, and non-disposable syringes and needles. Iodine, aloe, mercurochrome,
betadine, “Bag Balm” (an antiseptic lotion), dental floss (use baking
soda instead of toothpaste) and such could be stored in quantity as well. And
don’t forget the feminine hygiene products, nothing says I love you to
the womenfolk like a couple cases of these puppies, plus tampons can be used
to pack wounds and pads make good dressings (and nifty padding for pack straps).
Once again, just because you can’t use an item doesn’t mean others
won’t be able too.
SUNDRIES
Batteries (buy brand names in the big ‘Industrial’ packs and/or rechargeable
ones, keep the charger yourself and trade live for dead), belt buckles, pots
and pans, buckets, mops and mop heads, Pyrex measuring cups, measuring spoons,
metal mixing bowls, baking sheets, roasting pans, pressure cookers (good for
sterilizing as well as cooking), bread and cake pans, candy thermometers, cleaning
brushes (various, with both natural and artificial bristles not to mention metal
brushes), canning jars with seals and lids (lots and lots of seals and lids)
as well as canning baskets and pots, mechanical watches (I wear an Invicta Model
8926 myself), baby food jars (excellent for storage), thermos bottles, can openers
(a bucket load of military key ring "P-38" can openers will only cost
a few bucks),
potato
peelers,
tooth brushes, spray bottles, et cetera.
I could go on, but I think you have a good start here. The main thing is to think
about what people use everyday that they won’t have in a post-collapse
world and either get some of them now, or figure out a replacement. Check the
Internet, check the phonebook and the newspapers, find the outlet and surplus
stores in your area, get on mailing lists, and most of all shop! Don’t
just dash in and out, go in and look around and think about what can be useful.
Remember your first and best resource is that thing behind your ears, use it
often and well.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Do It Yourself Meat Preservation Methods »
Distance Learning College Teaching--A "Remote" Living Possibility?
Jim-
Those with an advanced degree (at least a Master's) plus experience
in education, business, government may be qualified to teach for
the U of Phoenix in their online program. Before I moved to Hawaii,
I taught for them for several years, the last two in the online program.
The pay is generous (up to and perhaps over $1,200) for a 5-week
course.
U of P. is the largest (by student numbers) university in the US--it
is a quality program and if you look into it you will be impressed.
Here's the part I thought would intrigue you: you physically meet with
the students for the first and last sessions (four hours each time)
only. The rest of the interaction is on the internet. You get to stay
in your jammies and you interact when the hour suits you--For those
not "near" a U of Phoenix facility: I lived in
St. George Utah and went to Salt Lake City for the first/last sessions
for the classes I taught. Although I stayed overnight at a daughter's,
it still would have been profitable if I had to use a motel. This may
be relevant for those not near a U. of Phoenix facility.
If U. of P. is not feasible, other schools, public and private, also
have distance learning programs which you may qualify for. - R.B.
« Letter Re: Uses for CONEXes at a Retreat |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Note From #1 Son:
Great news! The Vermont NAIS equivalent
program has
been stopped. Premises registration is no longer mandatory
in Vermont. Keep in mind, however, that the National Animal
Identification System is still scheduled to become mandatory. Write
your congressmen now! There are frequent updates on NAIS at
NoNAIS.org. For general background,
see our
NAIS page.
« Jim's Quote of the Day: |Main| Letter Re: A Practical PV-Powered Well Pump and Cistern System »
Letter Re: Brass Recycling
Jim,
Just a note regarding Bill K.'s fired cartridge brass recycling idea
to raise extra cash - it is a good money making idea with the continuing
rise
in the price of copper and other metals - our gun club here in North
Carolina paid all its property taxes last year on the recycling of
fired brass
left
after shooting events. The club insists that if the shooters don't
wish to take their fired brass home, they spend a few minutes between
relays when the line is clear to police up brass and put them into
specially marked/painted 'brass buckets'.
My voluntary role for my club is to take the full five gallon buckets
home periodically to check for dud or damaged live rounds and separate
them out along with any fired brass that interests me so I can assure
the scrap dealer there are no live rounds, rocks, steel cases, etc.
in the buckets. This eliminates hazards to the scrap dealer as well
as the liability issue for the club.
My concern is that I imagine most ranges are privately owned and unless
it is a remote county, state or federal public range such as Bill K.
describes where cleaning up the brass off the ground (why not also
pick up the rusty steel cases as well, and trash them, too - good PR and
environmental stewardship) is not frowned upon, one should check with
the range operators to see if they have a policy of any brass
left on the ground after the original shooter leaves the range becomes
club property. Some clubs may consider this theft otherwise.
Be forewarned - when you go to a recycling center/scrap metal company to turn
in the brass, several five gallon buckets of gleaming brass will get you noticed
- you will get some interested looks and comments/questions from the curious
about where the brass came from while standing in line with all the other folks
who are bringing in scrap from who knows where just to make ends meet or are
down on their luck. Also, for what it is worth, due to the increasing theft of
metals such as copper from job sites, most scrap dealers also insist on recording
your drivers license information so the materials can be traced back to you in
case of a police investigation.
One other small side note for reloaders: The scrap dealer also mentioned to
me that even fired centerfire rifle and pistol primers in quantity separated
from
the brass are of value in scrap recycling, as there is some kind of demand in
the
watch making and/or related industry for the minute metal parts for some reason.
However, fired shotgun primers are not as much in demand, from what I recall.
Lead
from
reloading also is desirable for recycling, but you might consider keeping theirs
for cast bullet work. Regards, - Redclay
« Letter Re: Five Watt Folding Photovoltaic Panels |Main| Note From JWR: »
Letter Re: Survival Dollars, by Wolverine
Jim,
I would like you to consider adding additional ways to earn extra "Survival
Income" to Wolverine post on Survival Dollars. One, is an addition to his
collecting and selling scrap metal. I take a five gallon bucket with me to the
outdoor range in the Sumter National Forest and collect all the brass I can between
shooting sessions. The best time is Sunday afternoon, to get all the weekend
shooters left. In 4-5 weekends I filled a five gallon bucket and maybe 1/3 of
another and made $87.
The other weekend income job I have is putting out and taking up the Realtor
directional signs. It takes me less than 1-1/2 hours to put then out Friday evening
and the same or less to pick them up on Sunday evenings. I bought a used 5' X
8' trailer for $150 and put about $100 in the jack system and paint/lights. I
put out 145 [signs] and pick them up in less than three hours. This makes me
around
$232 every two weeks, and I am able to "write off" my mileage. Check
your local
sign
maker
in the
yellow pages for routes. - Bill K.
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Note From JWR: »
Survival Dollars, by Wolverine
Over the years I have spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out various
ways to earn extra money to purchase the needed survival items I wanted without
causing a fight with my spouse. I feel fortunate to have found several that work
well for me, and may work for you as well.
Ground rules for myself were that working a part time job was out. I hated working
my normal 40 hour week and being committed to having to be at a certain spot
at a certain time five or six days a week. Over the years I have worked part
time jobs to pay off bills that got away and it always take longer to save that
money than planned and family life suffers. Any extra income I earn is done on
my own terms with me setting the limits. I like to control my own life.
Before I begin I must add one thought: If you need to own a vehicle, then that
vehicle needs to be a pickup truck. It will allow you to earn extra dollars
several
ways and make life easier. It should be the number one choice vehicle of survivalist.
As I write this I have just completed two days of doing one of the easiest ways
to make extra money I know. A friend and I cleaned out a closing business of
scrap metal and in four trips so far we have grossed just under $300. By the
time we finish the place my guess is that we will net over $400.
Most medium and large towns have a scrap dealer that will pay for old metal
items. I will not take a lot of time to explain to you the need to sort metal
from ferrous
and non-ferrous and all the fine points that being a scraper entails. If you
are not familiar with scraping metal talk to someone that is and they can help
you. The thing that I want you to know is this; metal sold equals cash. In
all the years I have sold scrap I have never been handed a check, only [greenback]
dollars. That
extra few hundred dollars that you can get for scrap can mean the difference
between buying an old Turkish Mauser or a nicer semi-auto.
I am not a hard-core survivalist waiting for TEOTWAWKI. In my life I have needed
to survive snowstorms and power outages a lot of times. I find those little
two to five day ordeals a good test of my preparedness. I am willing to think
a little
more optimistic about the future than more survivalist. I am willing to invest
money to make money.
One investment I made was to buy some vending machines. I sell gum and candy
out of several locations and can net an extra $30-50 every few months. My investment
in machines was around $300 and costs run around a hundred a year. The machines
have already paid for themselves and I do end up with net profit every year.
Again, the machines pay me in cash not checks. Purchasing silver and gold coins
is nice when some of the money to buy them comes from a coin shop.
At one time my partner and I sold trading cards out of vending machines and
made a couple hundred dollars a month. It tied up two Saturday mornings a month
and
was not like work. We made good friends while we ran that business and were
able to make some contacts that helped us buy other preparedness items at cost.
Vending machines might not work for you, but start to think of other things
that might
work for you. We tried setting up at flea markets, but didn’t feel it
was worth it for the time involved. I do however know other survivalist that
set
up and make a good extra income.
One fellow I know shared several ideas with me. One that I found interesting
and might try is the following. During the winter trapping season he and his
wife pick up every road kill raccoon and fox they find. (They buy a trappers
license to make sure they don’t get in trouble with the DNR.) Last year
their fur check was over $700. There is a company that will pay you for squirrel
tails too. It is possible to make money off of road kill animals. Again, it
is not for everyone, but it does help some folks get extra income.
Survival is many things to many people. I am lucky that I have my place in the
woods and a few other things that will make my life easier if trouble happens.
I can go for a week without power or I can convert some quick cash by selling
some copper scrap I have saved for the right time. None of these things came
easily, they came because I took chances and I worked at securing a few extra
survival dollars.
Maybe you have other ideas for extra income that you didn’t read here
or something here is a modified version of what you do. Let Jim know and maybe
he
will share those ideas with the rest of us and we can all increase our survival
dollars. - RSG
« Letter Re: Request for Advice on Dog Breeds |Main| Jim's Quote of the Day: »
Poll Results: The Best Jobs for a Deep Recession or Economic Depression?
Here the reader responses that we have received thusfar on our poll: "The
Best Jobs for a Deep Recession or Economic Depression":
"Tenured college or university professor."
"Locksmith. When the economy is good people need to protect their new
'stuff' and when the economy is bad people need to protect their old 'stuff'.
Crime does pay if you ar a locksmith. For twenty three years through good economic
times and bad I always had work."
"I suggest public accounting. Why? The flurry of bankruptcies that will
ensue. Bankruptcy work is very profitable for accountants. Also, if the last
depression was any clue, there will likely be a whole new pile of legislation
enacted to "Deal" with the depression (pun intended). And hey, accounting
is already a lucrative profession because of the Sarbanes Oxley Act. Yes, yes,
I know welding is a useful skill, and it would be great to be a self sufficient
organic farmer, but in a depression, as the poll describes, companies will
still be running, they'll just be doing very badly and somebody will have to
count the beans. Somebody will ALWAYS be counting the beans."
"I'd vote for what I do right now - professional handyman, but my emphasis
is on "can do" work - I don't do kits. I fix things, and make sure
they stay fixed.
Others:
Midwife.
Folk musician.
Any kind of mechanic - automotive, Diesel, electronics, machinist, Babbitt
bearing specialist, etc, but they have to concentrate on how to do true repairs,
not just how to install a kit.
Tinkerers that can build things from junk - tractors, farm equipment, rolling
gates, fencing, tools, etc.
Blacksmiths and metalsmiths.
Knifemakers and tool makers.
BioDiesel specialist - vehicle modifications, fuel production ( a sideline
business I'm looking at right now)
Any of the construction trades
Farrier
Large animal veterinarian
Low tech chemistry specialist
Pest control specialist
Septic system specialist
Various forms of security consultants/contractors
Butcher
Baker
Mist specialist :-) [JWR Adds: Actually that last one, given
in jest, is a good idea. There will always be a need for someone to pump septic
tanks.]"
"Well, if one can stand feeling like a vulture, auctioneers do very well
during economic downturns. Let's face it, if someone can't pay their bills,
their stuff is going on the auction block. With tougher bankruptcy laws, I
can only imagine it would make things better for that occupation. Also a good
occupation during a downturn would be furniture movers. In good times, people
are moving up. In bad times, people are: moving down, being put out on the
street or going where the jobs are. The more dislocation a downturn causes,
the more people will have to move around."
"There are probably others but here are a few:
Health Care Specialty/Field; Nurse, Doctor, Pharmacist
Government (Essential Services): Law Enforcement, Firemen, Teachers (K-12),
Military
Utilities (Essential Services): People that keep the electric, and gas lines
working..."
"ANY GOVERNMENT JOB
Upper Corporate Management
Doctor, Nurse, and health care field
Undertaker
Wal-Mart employee"
« Letter Re: Maggots for Wound Debridement |Main| Legislative Alert!: Defunding NAIS -- Please Call Your Congressman, ASAP »
Poll: The Best Jobs for a Deep Recession or Economic Depression?
Doc at www.bigsecrets.cc suggested
a poll: Which jobs--or forms of
self employment--will be the most stable a Deep Recession or Economic
Depression? Please e-mail me
your poll responses, and I will post them in an aggregated list. Thanks!
« #1 Son's Qoute of the Day: |Main| Letter Re: Advice of Shotgun Shells and Shot Sizes »
Letter from "RBS" Re: Supporting SurvivalBlog and Developing a Second Stream of Income
For those of you that have come to find SurvivalBlog.Com a daily read and
would also find the Internet just not as fun a place without it, might I suggest
an easy way to generate the requested donation of $36 per year (or just 10
cents a day) to keep it going strong.
Sell something on eBay or other commerce site (there are plenty!) [and take
$36.50 of the proceeds] and send it to JWR. It's an easy and effective way
of killing several "birds" with
one stone. First, you will be supporting your favorite web site. Second, the
money you send in will not have to come out of your pocket directly. As an
example, let's say you have an older laptop that is just gathering dust and
end up selling it for $100.00. You can take a portion of the proceeds minus
the listing and selling fees (which are reasonable for the most part) and make
the contribution. In this way, it will not cause a major financial disruption
if you are following a tight budget. It's a way of generating funds without
having to feel it come out of your monthly paycheck. You will have the satisfaction
of supporting what you value--SurvivalBlog.com.
We all have extra "stuff" lying around our homes and garages, that
are just taking up space. Its a great way to clean up the place and get some
money out of it at the same time. Another advantage to this is that if you
have never sold anything on eBay before it will give you the much needed incentive
to do so. EBay is an easy and always growing worldwide market for anything
you can imagine that can be bought or sold. For millions of people its the
perfect home based business that is easy to start and requires but a few things
which as a computer user and reader of this site, you probably already have
like a PC and a digital camera, etc.
There are dozens of books and other media that can help you get started and
avoid making major mistakes etc doing e-commerce, and without really knowing
it, you have just started on your way to creating a way of having a second
income. I have recently started back on eBay after an absence. I plan to do
this full time as soon as I can get up and running as my "full-time" yet
close to minimum wage job is probably now marked for a "downsizing" thanks
to the economy and a host of other changes which I have absolutely no control
over. Additionally, my education and experience are apparently not in demand.
With that in mind, I have decided to start being proactive in the matter.
Although I have a background in communications, advertising and technology,
it does not require this kind of knowledge to use the Internet to your advantage.
All that is really needed are the THREE "D"'s: DESIRE to change your
current situation, DETERMINATION to learn new skills and develop new talents,
and DEDICATION to stick with it and learn what is needed. Oh, and there is
a fourth "D" that comes in handy as well, The desire to
eliminate DEBT!
As readers of this site, I would advise considering doing something like this
now so that you can be up and running with an alternative cash flow should
a sudden shock come to our economy. Regardless, its time to start supporting
this blog. Sincerely, - RBS
« Odds 'n Sods: |Main| Letter Re: Defensive Shotguns on a Budget »
Letter Re: Making a Living in The Country
James,
Going back to the subject of, "Well now I live in the middle of
nowhere, how do I make a living?" The middle of nowhere is surrounded
by farms, small towns and older townsfolk. What does this mean? Antiques!
Old store signs, auto parts
signs, gas pumps, oil can racks and tools will bring in a nice price
from eBay or other auction houses. Just think of the estate sales or
farm sales! Generations of old furniture and other household goods!
Yes it's sad to watch our farms and farmers die off (I've read that
the
average age of the American farmer is in his 70s.) So if your dealing
with a widow, {be charitable and] fix the leaky sink or re-glaze the
window.
Soon you'll be known as the "Guy Who Buys the Old Stuff." So
the trick is to get the goods to the people that collect these items,
but don't have access to them. Or as they are often known as, "City
Folk." This could be an all-cash business and if you get the reputation
of being fair, then word will spread. Your truck and mileage and storage
area
and phone and office could all be a tax write-off. Any idea what a
1940s Quaker State Oil sign would bring on eBay? - Stimpy
« Letter Re: Backup Generator Purchase Recommendations |Main| Precious Metals: This Time The Trend Truly is Your Friend »
Letter From Matt Bracken Re: A Home-Based Business--Your Ticket to The Boonies
Jim,
Here is another terrific home business idea which "sells itself," requires
only a minimal investment, has a high profit margin, and can be done
in one's spare time. Install front door peep-holes. A number of years
back I was visiting in a large townhouse complex where my wife used
to live, and a gentleman rang the doorbell.
Upon opening the door, I met the man holding a peephole in his hand.
He almost didn't need to say a word. It literally needed no sales
pitch, it "sold itself." He had the tools etc to do it
on the spot. Buy high quality
peep-holes in bulk for a few bucks each. You just need a good portable
rechargeable drill and a few other simple attachments and tools to
deal with different types of doors. Ring doorbells on the weekends,
in developments where you can see that peep-holes are not standard
issue. Offer to install a quality peep-hole right on the spot, at the
customer's exact preferred height, for $20 FRN. One thing: I'd recommend
installing a few for free on the doors of family and friends for practice.
Different door materials obviously
need different drilling methods. Basically, you use a standard hole
saw which fits around a 1/4" drill bit. After making a pilot hole
all the way through, you need to drill half way in from both sides
with the hole saw, to avoid chipping or splitting.
You are doing people
a service, and they will be happy to hand over $20 FRN for an installed
peep-hole. You also gain the satisfaction of helping people to better
secure their "castle" from possible attack or subterfuge.
Going door to door, a personable peep-hole installer can sell ten or
more units on a Saturday afternoon and make about $15 FRN per 15 minute
transaction. And that ain't bad money. - Matt Bracken
JWR Adds: Regular SurvivalBlog readers will recognize
Matt Bracken's name. He
is the author of an excellent novel of the near future titled Enemies
Foreign and Domestic as well as the forthcoming sequel, Domestic
Enemies.
(See:
http://www.enemiesforeignanddomestic.com/)
These days, most people don't have basic carpentry skills or even
know how to operate a drill motor without botching the job. The
essence of making money with a trade or skill is leveraging your expertise. Take
the time to get very good at doing a few things and you will never
starve.
There
are several types of commercially-made peepholes available. One
brand that
is
made
in Russia
is slightly
larger than
most
and has a
very wide
viewing angle.
That
would
make a great selling point.
« Letter Re: Recent North Plains Blizzard |Main| Letter Re: Recommendations on CB Radios? »
Three Letters Re: A Home-Based Business--Your Ticket to The Boonies
Jim:
I thought the point was to have a home-based business that could
survive in the boonies…?
I don’t see much need for a locksmith, gunsmith, or alarm installer
in the boonies where most structures are on huge acres of land with
fences and who knows how many dogs on the property, let alone a cantankerous
old coot with a heavily worn double-barrel shotgun… <grin>
Even repairs are pushing it when neighbors may be a mile or more away… that
is a SMALL customer base.
How many guns near you in the boonies that need custom gunsmithing?
Another small customer base. Only the BEST gunsmiths get guns shipped
to them for work…, then shipped out when finished.
The truly promising home-based businesses are either MAIL / UPS /
FEDEX based, such as mail order and Internet sales, or home based businesses
over the internet, such as accounting, med. Transcription (now mostly
foreign
cheap labor),
etc…
Just some thoughts and possible target realignment. - Robert
Jim-
Here's some to home based businesses to consider:
Professional Genealogist. See http://www.apgen.org/ .
If it sounds interesting, do research on your own family to see if
it's your kind
of thing. Start by going to http://www.familysearch.org/ , click
on "Order/Download Products", click on "Software Downloads--free",
download the first Personal Ancestral File (PAF) in the listing.
PAF is as robust as any program that you'd pay money for--plus
all genealogists know it well. You can offer your services to search
in your local area. If you like being a detective you can have a
lot of
fun/make a bit of money.
JWR Adds: The Memsahib and I have used PAF for
organizing our genealogical research since about 1988. However, we
recently switched to Reunion for our Apple Macintosh computers. We
find that Reunion is easier to use, has more features, and most importantly
it
produces
"clean"
GEDCOM
format
files for export for use with other genealogy programs and word processing
programs. (With the Mac version of PAF we had numerous file corruption
problems with GEDCOM export
files. But we've heard that the PC versions of PAF are less glitchy.)
Indexer. You receive manuscripts electronically and use special
software to set up indexed words, concepts. If you are a careful
reader (and especially if you smirk when you find a typo!) this
may be for you. http://www.asindexing.org/site/indfaq.shtml.
Hey, index "Patriots" so
we can find all those cool ideas without having to read the thing
nine times!
Scopist. A scopist takes a court reporter's dictation and
transcribe it via special software into appropriate format for attorneys.
Very interesting work--I suggest doing civil work rather than criminal
because it can get pretty gruesome. Find scopists on the internet.
Don't spend bucks on a "school." Instead, find a scopist
who needs help (they like to go on vacations, too!) and volunteer
to
work for
free to get trained. You'll need a transcription machine to transfer
info into the computer. Check your favorite attorney to find who
the local scopists are and what the typical rates are for your area.
Grow and dry wild flowers. Search the web to see what's hot, what's
not. One of my daughters worked for a man with a piddly 1⁄2
acre lot who sold his stuff by mail throughout the country. Can you
grow
Baby Breath? I remember teenagers in my Church going to Eastern
Washington to pick Baby's Breath (your wife will know what this is) for
florists. Here in Hawaii, you can buy a lei made from about 25 tennis-ball
size
orchids for $3!! Too bad they can't be shipped stateside. But here's
a clever graduation tradition--use Saran Wrap and twist in bite-size
candy to make a candy lei (for graduation from 6th grade?). Advertise
in the PTA.
Grow Lavender--it's a big deal for growers in Washington State; if
your climate can support it, give it a look.
I know a guy who has a multi-acre rose-growing operation--he sells
rose plants at Farmer's markets, and he must be making money because
he's there every weekend.
Which reminds me--check out the possibility of growing plants used
in spices--do you know what you pay per pound for spices--Yikes!
Look into Square Foot Gardening, http://www.squarefootgardening.com/ ,
especially to become a supplier of garden-fresh produce for up-scale
(or wanna-be upscale) restaurants. His book/DVD has good stuff and
he tells you exactly how to pitch the produce to local places. And
a plus--you get to learn all about intensive gardening.
Can you set yourself up to treat discarded food oil to make it useable
in diesel engines and then supply the locals? It's going to be more
and more popular--but you'll need a willing bunch of sources--maybe
those same upscale restaurants?!
Bake whole wheat specialty breads for local outlets (organic food
stores, chic restaurants). Hey, that reminds me--timbales. You'll
have to hunt
to find the ones that are saucer-sized. When I was a kid, the little
concession stands had them hung all lined up on a horizontal stick--you
plunked down your money (in those days a dime) and DaMan took one
off, sifted powder sugar on it and away you went. Looks like a lot,
but
it's mostly air. Easy to do; try it at home first, of course--start
with the little timbale forms.
Okay, some of these aren't quite home-based, but think outside the
box. Maybe for a relatively small investment you can involve your
kinds
in a free-enterprise business effort. Like a little concession trailer
outside the high school ball game where you'll sell "shave-ice" (not
sno-cones!!!--and NOT "shaveD ice!!!"). Then move it around
town to all the public events. Get license, pay the fees, taxes--it
makes America great!
Did you see the Hostess wedding cake? http://www.cybersalt.org/cleanlaugh/images/05/weddingtwinkie.htm . Sure, it's silly, but if you'd like to get into cake decorating,
you can get noticed by offering one of these babies for laughs. Of
course, you'd better learn how to do serious decorating.
Have you got a nice rural setting? People pay big bucks for wedding
receptions in "different" (but not dirty) sites. Also, Public
schools have money for taking kids on field trips--can you organize
a ride on a hay wagon pulled by your tractor? Develop a maze.
How about a couple of those dorky wood characters with a hole for a
face, so people can get their picture taken as Ma/Pa Kettle--do it
digitally and sell them a photo hot off your photo printer.
This reminds me; many people do very well by visiting schools and
putting on assemblies--do you have/know/do something that can entertain/involve
students? I've seen some very mediocre paid-for assemblies in
my teaching days, so think about it.
Do you live in an interesting area? Do the locals know about places
the casual visitors never see? Write up a must-see list and sell
it on the Internet.
Does your hometown (or nearby town) have curbs in residential areas?
Make a cardboard mask so you can block out an area of curb in front
of a house and spray a black background; then use stencils to spray
the house address on the blackened curb--firemen and cops love this
idea--at $2 per sign, you can make quite a few bucks on a Saturday.
Get the license! Pay the fees! Don't harass the homeowner--get permission
first.
Well, come to think of it, don't just think outside the box--use
the box itself! - B.B. In Hawaii
Mr. Rawles,
One comment on your recommendations for cottage industry jobs. I highly
encourage people to learn as much about gunsmithing as possible, but
it is very difficult to make a living at this trade. I worked five
years part time for a self employed gunsmith who could not have made
ends
meet if he had not had another skill (made dentures for dentists) and
a wife who worked. Our business always suffered when the economy dipped.
Having a gun fixed is not a priority in non-SHTF times. And being a
small time gunsmith means that you can’t afford to invest in
expensive machinery, so most work is very labor intensive. Keeping
a stock of parts for most common repairs is costly. There are probably
more different kinds of guns than cars. Of course most of these problems
can be circumvented with some time, work, and creativity, but only
the sharpest and most experienced gunsmiths make a good living.
Another minor problem is that lots of people who come into your
shop like guns and want to talk to you about them. You need to be courteous
and encouraging about gun ownership, but this time spent talking pays
zero per hour.
And of course to legally work on other people’s guns, you have
to apply for and pay fees to get an FFL. That means that an ATF agent
can come by and examine your records and inventory. Gunsmiths and FFL
holders who work out of their homes are rapidly disappearing because
of the general bias by the ATF against anyone who does not (or even
who does) have a storefront with regular hours.
Gunsmithing is a great skill, and a wonderful hobby, but it’s
not a very good way to make money I’m afraid. I hope others have
had a more positive experience. - C.G. in NC
JWR Replies: I recommend gunsmithing only if you
can develop a specialty and eventually a reputation for expertise in
the specialty that will attract mail order business from clients all
over the country.
